วีดีโอ

Good shit, thanks!

what's the part called that he had to transfer over to the new pvc. I need that part to buy it?

THANK YOU SO MUCH. On my 2011 s4, it kept telling me this and I found that the wire is broken. Big thanks to you brother

Had to look up the meaning of the abbreviation... Had no idea that's what we experienced back in the day. Thanks for the teaching.

Now you and Franz should race the Beetle and the Quattro. 😅😅

Sounds nice! Can hear that turbo wine. Love them beetles.

Oh Teah! 😃

No shit, I have a 2011 BMW X3 28i xdrive with a failing alternator so you are a fucking miracle for me because it would be $1100 without manual labor at my mechanic. 🙏🙏🙏

Can you be more specific/clear about what you mean by "blowing compressed air through the hose on the car side"? Where exactly is it? Thanks

Thank you so much. Couldn't figure why or where that black sleeve was supposed to do. But you explained enough

The exhaust housing on the turbo, looks more like an early Passat or Audi A4 1.8

anyone have a link to the Upper timing chain cover

Never too old to learn something. I was about to do the tensioner on my Touran as it makes this same noise and I jumped straight to that conclusion. Gonna check this first 😂 thanks.

Nice video but i do t have all the tools does anyone in dallas tx does this work dm me

I have a p0304, I smell heavy fuel coming from the engine. I did a compression test on all 4 cylinders 1,2 & 3 was 180psi, the 4th cylinder was at 90psi. I put new spark plugs also changed the coils and misfire still there. Someone help please. 2009 golf Gti pzev 2.0t

What intake cam phase position degree, do usually recommend changing the chain at? Was the CEL lit, for any cam correlation codes, on the car you are working on, being it was at 9 degrees?

What's your acceptable degrees of stretch? I've heard 5 is the max.

How did you disconnect the yellow and orange clip shown at 2:02 in the video?

Even with the timing chain stretch.... do you find the balance chain to be generally in good order?

Tack för info,jag löste👍🏼 det själv🙂

Incredible. That's experience. Thanks for sharing.

Which part of Michigan is your shop?

How does the line crack from the booster in the first place?

You are the man, sniffing out bad wires like a bloodhound, nice work.

Best video out there

I have this issue. No fix for this leak at the plastic joint there? as in a bad O ring in that plastic connection there? I think this has been causing issues with cylinder No1. It's blown 2 coil packs and last spark plug I put in 200 km ago looks nasty. Thinking lower pressure due to the minor leak may have stolen the required pressure to activate injector No1. I wonder if acetone can melt the plastic enough to fix the leak but it looks to me like there is a join at that part and possible a dried out O ring in there. I will look later It's raining today But with used ones around $40 it's ok but new ones at $300+ !!! Problem is you never know what your going to get buying used. I just looked into this a bit further and heard this part is plastic welded. I don't know of many solutions but perhaps using acetone to melt the plastic back together or melt it back together with a soldering iron. In any case I have found a used one if this doesn't work. If you mix packing polystyrene with acetone in a jam jar till it dissolves you can make a strong plastic glue perhaps by wrapping the repair in cling film or similar it will help the DIY glue to melt further into the part. So I think I fixed it. I used an old soldering iron to melt the plastic over. I pushed plastic in towards the join from both sides, i went a few mm deep around the actual join that failed. After this i took some p tex (used for fixing scratches in the base of skis and I melted another two layers of this over the top as a precaution. This is a process that takes around an hour or less and must be performed outdoors due to the fumes. It would probably be better to take or find see f the same plastic and simply continue to try to melt extra plastic around the repair. Fuel resistant glues are available but I didn't want to wait. At least with this technique you can get back on the road with just a few tools and a soldering iron.

Good explanation. I did this easily. Thank you!

Great advice, any tips for pulling it from the top? I have everything disconnected but I just can't maneuver it through the gap at the top

Thanks for the video. TH-cam is the best place to look up simple info like this. You just saved me an expensive trip to the dealer to replace a $13 part. My line cracked near the T joint and I know this is that cause of the leak because my engine cover underside is soaked with coolant. They should replace this with a metal part.

What material did you use ? I’d like to do the same to my car

Even though you were talking it still helped me confirm that mine is probably a tire issue and not a wheel bearing issue. Thanks.

I’m hoping this is what’s wrong with mine!!! Thank you for the info much appreciated

I have the exact same noise and everyone kept saying it's the wheel bearing

Thanks, greetings front the netherlands

Thank you.

They do! We are already replacing replacements from 5-6 years ago with the “MR7” tensioners completely out.

Should be good to power it to 130 mph!😁

Is it a pulsing noise

Question, I see these mounts have an electrical connection, I assume some sensor within the mounts themselves. However, in this video, clear wear and tear and fluid leakage yet you said there was no fault codes ! Curious, what is the purpose of the "sensors" then in the mounts ?

Is there a more certain method to confirm that the issue is actual engine mounts before you remove them to inspect? My situation, 2012 A4 Quattro with 126K miles and new timing chain job. Shakes at cold start then idling only! I scanned using VCDS, no fault codes found so hopefully that means no engine related issues! Also, do not see any visible fluid leaks under the mounts. Appreciate your help and videos.

Seems like maybe that oil is spillage from an oil change? Just had a C250 with the filter on the top back of the engine. A shop tried to sell repairs for it. I steam cleaned the engine and the customer brought it back after 200 miles and zero leaks. Now I have a C450 coming in tomorrow from another customer where the same shop told them it needs the timing covers resealed. I watch this video and look…oil filter right there and it’s not leaking on the other side….hmmmm.

Whats the fix for this? My threads are destroyed for 2 of 3 bolts

Gracias

Removing the handbrake cable from the hub is a mission, I dont know how he just pulled it off....

Smith Donna Martinez Lisa Anderson Amy

My problem is when i hit 55+ I hear a humming noise and it gets worse the faster I go

I bought a 2010 gti with this engine. The timing chain was allegedly replaced but my scan tool reads +5.9 at idle when warm. If negative numbers mean chain is stretched, does my reading mean they have the intake advanced one tooth off?

Rusty bolts and also loose... what a " perfect combination "

Do you have an install video?

I understand every car brand has problems but AUDI is the worst car ever experienced!!! shit box to repair cost to buy house.....