AXC Sim TrueBrake Logitech G920 Brake Pedal Mod Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Installation and review of the AXC Sim TrueBrake mod for the Logitech G920 G29 G27 pedals.
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EDIT! Sorry guys, using a bigger buffer gives a SMALLER dead zone and using a smaller buffer gives a LARGER dead zone.
Hey Karl, a follow up as I installed it this weekend. Piece of cake install, yes there are a lot of screws :). AXC-Sim is providing 4 bumper - dead zone choices now. I picked the second most aggressive (less dead zone). I chose wisely :). I also made some spring swaps by using the old brake spring in the clutch and the clutch spring moved to the throttle. Everything feels great, much more confident going deeper into the corners as the pressure is consistent and smooth. I have the Playseat Challenge and not seeing flex. I have only about few hours with the mod, but highly recommend!
That should be obvious , You said you were a car mechanic? ;) The larger the buffer the quicker the pedal reaches the cell.
Nice review. Would you say the gt omega apex with seat add on can handle this? You mention the pedal press weight is similar to stock, really? So ok with socks?
P.s. you were right and im loving my rs9 seat now.
Watched toll the end to see if you twigged it. Just an FYI. Now available with 4 spring strength's
Got mine this morning. Installing was a doddle, thanks Karl. Hint: swap the throttle spring for the tougher clutch spring while you’re at it anyway. Original brake spring goes to clutch. Done that, and I’m over the moon. I missed my Citroën brakes more than I knew. No trouble reaching 100% btw. Second to smallest bumper, ps4, wheelstand on woven wool carpet
About to receive mine soon. I'll try this tip out while I install it.
I ordered the V2 with the Green Spring (23kg) It drastically improved My Trail Braking, absolute recommendation from me 👍
where did you get the meow mod?
Play seat challenge with this mod and can confirm a little bit of the middle of the seat raising up. But I wouldn’t revert back to the old rubber block. It also sucks I can’t see the amazing design of the brake mod. Very nice mod if anyone is planning on staying with the g920, I am moving to the csl dd with the v3 pedals. But I have enjoyed the g920. Thanks for the video
It's not about travel... Brakes are never about travel but pounds of pressure. Our brains can't keep up with "how much we traveled" with our foot but our brains significantly keep up with how much force and pressure it took to slow down a certain rate. And as such you no longer start feeling the travel but just the pressure. The more you use your force the more you will slow down and thus brain will via muscle memory map it out and you will be able to gauge how much you will need to brake without thinking "did I travel 50 or 60% or did I overshoot to 90%?" but rather just "yeah this bitch requires massive amount of force, yep remember that one!".
Looks and sounds like this is just what I'm looking for! Definitely going to be picking one of these up in the next couple of weeks. Should be a nice addition, along with the magnetic shifter paddles.
Hope you enjoy it!
Not sure if anyone’s mentioned yet, but you really need to remove the black screws as well. Work on the pedals as you’ve done here, and then drop them into the top housing and they all align with the base just fine. This lets you put the cables back in the tiny retaining grooves. Then screw the base plate back on. If you don’t do it this way, there is a high possibility that you can trap and damage the cables. I’d seen a few videos of people warning about this and still took mine apart like you have. I put it all carefully back together, thinking there was loads of clearance for the cables, only to find on closer inspection that they are only clear when they sit in the grooves on the top. I was lucky, I spotted that the base was sitting 1/2mm out when tightening the screws. It had still damaged the insulation. Others have cut right through them. I was annoyed as product design is my area of expertise and still didn’t spot the problem 😂
I always manage to get mine in the retaining grooves anyway mate, there isn't much clearance but they pop in and stay in if you're careful.
Good tip though for sure! :)
Just a few comments.
The smaller or shorter buffer gives a larger "deadzone", not smaller, as their is a larger gap between the buffer and the top of the pedal.
You may want to grease the components where they will slide against the plastic cylinder, the stock pedals I believe are greased inside the pedal "pistons" from factory.
I recommend reallocating the springs. Personally, I put the stock brake spring for the clutch pedal and the stock clutch spring in the accelerator, stiffens them up nicely. The accelerator does have a longer stock spring than the other two pedals but I've noticed no issues.
I use my TrueBrake in a Playseat Challenge and it only occasionally starts to lift very slightly under max braking. It's not an issue at all. I'm also a very light chap so this would probably be less of a concern for anyone of average weight or more.
Yeah I realised the same thing whilst laying in bed last night! lol Pinned comment added! :)
The teflon tape is the lubricant mate, thats the reason it's been added recently, the springs and buffer do not touch the sides.
I think it's your lightness that prevents the lifting, you have much less weight to shift backwards against the seat upright which is what lifts the seat up, for me and others this is a daily problem unless you calibrate it out.. which works fine but pointless with this mod of course.
I would say the bigger buffer will be less dead zone. Less for the spring to travel
Spot on, I realises this after when watching it back too, pinned comment added! :)
Noticed now the V2.2 Truebrake you can specify the firmness of the internal spring when you order it, 15kg (soft)/23kg(popular)/30kg/38kg(hard)
Just picked up my G29 for the PC. Love your videos great quality and normal guy doing good reviews!
Much appreciated!
I`ve had mine for 4 years now. Well worth the money spent.
So I've been using this for a few weeks. My impressions are actually quite negative compared to the stock spring and rubber setup. It does well to sense the pressure, no problem with that. The problem that I have is that there is quite a big difference between the linear spring and the exponential pressure. So it's really hard to get it exactly where you want around that mark (which is about 20/30% brake for me).
It's great for easing of the brakes into that trail braking range... but it's not great for knowing exactly how much you're braking. I definitely had a net loss in consistency and confidence in my braking. I think I'm going to order some GTeye springs instead. I need LINEAR brake pressure.
It's really not for everyone is it mate.
Good review. After installing the TrueBrake in my Logitech G25 pedals, I'm very happy. It's a massive improvement over the standard pedal. I have my setup in a GT Omega Apex wheelbase and find it steady enough to apply enough pressure to use the pedal to it's maximum braking force without tipping my folding Ikea chair backwards. That said, you definitely want to ensure you've a good setup because the force is considerable to move the pedal to its 100% level.
I was disappointed with the travel distance before the True Brake mod actually started to show any signal on my G920. I tried the largest buffer they offered with the kit but the travel distance of the dead zone was annoying and difficult to be accurate with. I want to feel the brake travel range engage from the moment I start to press on it or release it. I took it out and put the stock brake spring and rubber piece back in. However, when I did this I had a large dead zone that was not there before the mod. Turns out if you separate the two gears that turn the potentiometer it can get out of whack. There is spring tension on it and you have to move the gear connected to the potentiometer one tooth forward before securing the brake pedal gear back into the housing. After I did that the stock brake worked as it originally did and engaged as soon as there was pressure on it. With that said, I recommend not taking out the pin the connects to the bottom of the pedal as some other videos have suggested. That will keep your brake gears at the factory setup.
I like the way you explain every detail so carefuly. Great video. Looking forward the next one.
Thank you very much!
Thank you for your review. Ive cancelled my true break order and gone for the GT EYE springs 👌
Glad I could help
Ah yes, the video I've been waiting for...
I have just ordered one, should have it next week. Seriously looking forward to feeling the difference.
The cat said best upgrade ever... I have g920.. and have been on the fence about upgrade or mod..
She knows! lol
Just a comment on opening the pedals - it's actually better to do it flipped. Get a box, put the pedals on it so that the pedal faces are inside the box and the pedal casing is resting on the sides. Unscrew all the bolts and you will be able to open up the cover on the bottom. Reason for this - the top casing actually has small cutouts for wires, and if you remove the top piece, you won't be able to get the wires back into the cutouts. Just makes for a neater install.
Thank you for the review! I find it hard to modulate the brake pedal in competitive races because there's too much movement so I was looking for something like this!
Excellent! :)
ditto....
I put the rubber buffer from my g 29 brake pedal back in my two spring combination 65 lb compression spring brake pedal mod bringing the braking force needed for full braking power reading ( on screen in game ) to just under 80 lbs. Although it is still measured by pedal; position and not by amount of pressure as with a load cell , it still works good for muscle memory of brake force needed when braking much better than the stock version pedal does which feels more toy like to me .
Ive had 1 of these for months and they are fantastic feels way more progresive could never go back. how ever mine didnt come with the metal top cap think thats a new thing. thanx AXC Sim
It is a new thing mate, as is the different dead zone buffers.
As a fellow tinkerer, I'd really like to see it even if it is a fail. I'm cuirous about your ideas.
It works! You'll see it Friday! :)
I don't even have a Logitech wheel but love watching your videos. Great work!!
lol Cheers mate! :)
Karl, you sound a lot like Roger Daltrey. And cool topic for a video - I tried that mod on my old set of G29s. I liked it.
You don't need fancy stuff like this. Just go get a 7/8" zinc plated linear spring about $5 from Home Depot and cut it to same length as the non-linear factory spring which is way to stiff. Home Depot part# 684-838 made by Everbilt.
I'm a desktop racer and Karl is 100% correct when he says that you'll feel NO benefit from this product. A mixture of seating angle and your chair creeping backwards make it near impossible to modulate your foot pressure or gain 100% braking (you can calibrate out a percentage of the brake to make this easier but doing the same thing to the original brake gives a similar result). You need a rig, and if you've got that sort of cash you may as well upgrade your wheel and pedals anyway. Rob's a fair bloke and has agreed to refund mine, but do yourself a favour and listen to the big fella he speaks the truth, thank for the vid. 👍
Cheers Kevin, agreed mate, a solid rig is needed or it's a waste of money.
@@KarlGosling personally I'd say the latter (especially when you could just save the cork from your last bottle of wine). Although I don't feel like that's the popular opinion, I do feel like it's the truth. Too many reviews read 'At first I didn't like this mod, then I drove 4000 laps and my lap times improved'.
The buffer configuration has also changed before you got four buffers each with a rubber stop. Now the rubber stop is at the opposite end and presses on four (different sized) solid metal buffers. This may not make a difference but to my mind when you start changing a design that works, to save money, it's never a good thing.
Thanks. Just saved me a bunch of money.
that was i looking dont know why people believe hard brake would be better, right now struggle with a loadcell mod and need alot of force to get 100% without a exponential curve feel more like press of a button
been looking forward to this one! 😄
i had just gotten into sim racing for my twitch channel, figuring everything out now, im not sure if you play any games with your subs but i would love to play with you sometime man! youve taught me alot and i feel like maybe we can get some good content together!! love the videos man keep up the great work!!
find yourself a sim community, hard to find, but worth when you do.
Great vid as always mate. The best cheap mod I used was a squash ball just shoved down the back of thrustmaster t3pa pedals then adjust linearity as per your method. Worked a treat for a Fiver!!
Ps DD1 has been RMA to Fanatec...firmware issue I think.
Nice and simple! :)
Oh really, what a pain!
Waiting for mine and the inverted pedals kit. :D
I like how you're always smiling In your thumbnails heheh.. im getting 1 but um yea.. that's it I guess lol
Has the designer not thought about doing a version with a slightly softer and longer travel version
Great video Karl as always. I like your reviews. I notice you do a lot of upgrade reviews for Logitech pedal sets. Ever thought of trying a Leo Bodnar cable with this true brake. I hear it adds more bits to the resolution and makes the travel linear instead of the curve at the end you were talking about. I am considering purchasing both. If you ever get a chance would like to hear your thoughts on it.
I have but TBH I like the curve.
You said you'd put in the description a video showing me how to fix my playseat/breaking issue
I just recently decided to upgrade my old Logitech pedals and put the AXC True brake in my g29 pedals but I'm still having trouble getting used to it. I wonder how long it takes to get used to?
Thanks mate, that was super descriptive
Cheers!
Is it necessary to get the additional bodnar cable for PC? I want to upgrade my brake but torn between just upgrading pedals instead of pedal and bodnar cable
These days I'd just get new pedals if money allows mate.
@@KarlGosling Thats what im thinking i should do too. I got a cheap spring damper for the brake and it feels better but still sucks lol
Question: are you plugging the pedals into the wheel base? If so, bear in mind the Logitech g920 has a built in gamma for the brake. You should really test this using a Leo Bodnar cable too.
You might want to inverse mount those pedals too. It makes a big difference when pressing hard on the brake as your ankle has a much greater lever
I explained this in the video mate yes.
@@KarlGosling True, you explained about the built-in curve.
Subscribed and looking forward to the next video.
There are two gotcha's with plugging the pedal base in the wheel base still: 1) the builtin curve doesn't cover the full 100% input, therefore any modification can trigger different points in the curve, which is why it is a bad thing and I bypass it with a leo bodnar cable.
2) the wheel base only has 8bit resolution, while a leo-bodnar takes that to 10bit and some home-made arduino mods can take that to 12, 14 and above if necessary, which it is espcially when you have such a short range of travel.
What I would have liked to see in the review is how accurate the potentiometer readings are by using something like DIView and showing if there was any flickering, especially when at the two ends of the pedal travel.
Maybe I've bought it a bit too quickly.. I use a desk setup and although my chair isn't going anywhere and my pedals are fixed to my desk.. I can't get to that last 5 or 10%. I searched for the Game controll panel, but I can't find the right menu to calibrate the G29 with the last 10% missing. I love the feeling though, The pedal feels more firm, Less wobble in the movement from 0 to 90. I feel more confident by braking harder on metal instead of the plastic bushing/system as it was originally.
Does the G923 pedal have the white plate to remove first?? Thanks!
At this point I know everything about the g29 and its mods
Except of course what the wheel actually feels like
That is a pretty cool mod
The thing i dont understand is you can, on most sims, reduce the amount of travel required for full braking so you dont need to fully depress the pedal for 100%. I do this already as my pedals are up against a wall and family members complained they would hear it when i braked hard.
So would thisnbe worth it for me or would i still be rattling the walls to achieve 100%?
You'd just set it short like you are already doing and have a tiny amount of pedal travel... it's pointless IMO.
Great video as always Karl 👍 . Might have to give one of those a try .
Just one question , noticed you using the windows game controller settings and wondered if you even bother with the Logitech G hub software ? Is it needed at all ?
Thanks .
Yes mate you have to have the G Hub software installed or W10 doesn't even show the G920 in the control panel.
@@KarlGosling ah ok thanks 👍 .
Keep up the great work mate .
Karl, have a question for you. I just bought the truebrake modification and 2 of their potentiometer upgrades for my g920. In the description, it said the potentiometer mods are linear. Also, it said the truebrake potentiometer is linear. So, does that mean logitechs software will override the potentiometer and give it a curve instead of it being linear, or do the potentiometers somehow override logitechs curve in the software?
You're correct, the factory curve will still be present and it still uses the same resistance values etc... the only difference is how it feels to your foot.
A linear pot is just a physically different shape to a rotary pot, it performs the same task which is why it's plug and play.
Get a 9-pin serial to USB that way you can plug it directly into the computer and lose that non-linear brake curve
Good review.
Thanks!
Its not about whether someone must really like Logitech pedals to spend that much for the perfect pedal when the fact is maybe they can't afford a $ 1200.00 Fanatec setup or a $600 Fanatec pedal stand alone set which you are not likely to get for $ 200 or $250 and for that matter why would someone spend for the cost of a Fanatec pedals when for just a little more they could have a two pedal Heusinkveld pedal set instead and get the third pedal at a later date if need be . I much rather have a hydraulic brake pedal setup than a spring with a load cell or no load cell brake pedal .
Well here in the UK Fanatec V3's go for £250-£300 all day long, that's what I paid for mine! :) You can't get HE for anywhere near that over here.
Prices are higher now (for everything) but that's not normal and only temporary :)
I bought one of these about 3 to 4 months ago but it didn't come with the top cap that replaces the white cap nor did it have the tape on each side of the aluminim body. My guess these are a revised addition made to remedy 2 flaws in original product... One being the white plastic cap cracking under the load needed to be exerted on it and the other is to try eliminate the clicking problem when the black housing catches on the recess where the 2 sections of the aluminium body fit together. I'm going to email the seller to ask if he can ship me the aluminium cap and maybe the brown tape pieces. Wish me luck in being successful at getting him to send me them free of charge. Will be back to update you of his response
Fingers crossed mate.
Hi question for ya. I have the Logitech 920 wheel and pedal set up. I have tried everything and I can't get my clutch to work at all. Went in and change the settings back and fourth and can't get the clutch to work. Now the gas pedal and brake work fine. Playing on a Xbox 1 . Thanks for any ideas or help. Steve
still waiting for mine...maybe i should slag him off to get mine a bit quicker???
I'm sending it back mate, it was his personal one not from stock.
Third time lucky
TH-cam must not like me posting a link address lol
Karl have you seen that MVH studios are doing a real loadcell for the Logitech?
Yeah sorry Richard TH-cam doesn't allow links mate.
I'll take a look, I know Ricmotech have done one for years but was expensive.
@@KarlGosling the MVH one is around £70 ish, which puts it in competition with Truebrake !
Do you think the leo bodnar lead would work with thie truebrake Karl?
Yes mate as this just acts like a normal Logitech potentiometer from that point of view.
@@KarlGosling get in ive already saved it in my basket for Friday lol cheers again Karl
Had mine today, 18/08/2020, swapped it all out, spent sometime with it and hate to say, my times are slower. I have a Playseat Evolution so the strength is no issue. Put the bigger buffer in, so as soon as you press the pedal, its brakes. Its rock solid, so as Karl said, pedals need to be bolted down, very little movement at all. Sorry to say, i am putting my old pedal back in, this is really not that good, save your money.
I think quite a few people have had a similar experience, you either love it or hate it.
Great vid Karl, have you seen the Leo Bodner USB cable that put the pedal set direct in to your PC and is supposed to byepass the baked in brake curve issue? I've got one of these sets on order to.
I have mate yes, I like the curve as it reduces needed travel, so have never tried one.
Im i the only one who is satisfied by the original brake pedals?
No, as I mention in the video I like the stock pedal feel.
Ha ha. Karl’s on a squishy puff.
How much of an upgrade to the g923 brake is this?
we just needed doom doom doom and the end there. YOU know?
Great vid mate
Thanks 👍
" pushing on a poof"... think you might have to do a follow up video to explain for all non brit viewers :D :D
XD lol
They are now offering softer springs.
I saw a reviewer use Leo Bodnar PC Cable for Logitech Pedals to get rid of the logitech progressive curve, so the input is linear all the way.
However, both of those combined + shipping and customs make me consider buying old csr lc fanatec pedals and selling my g29 altogether.
Decisions, decisions.
“This May be the best brake pedal mod there exist for the g series pedal, but I haven’t used it yet” wtf... yea seems totally unbiased. Hasn’t used it, and has already declared it as the best there is.
Zero clue! 😆
I’m torn between this one and the Ricmotech cell conversion, anyone know which is better performance, I know the Rico is more expensive but is it worth the expense? Thanks in advance.
If your looking at spending Ricmotech money you'd be better off selling your Logitech pedals for £50 and putting all the money together for some Thrustmaster T-LCM's or Fanatec CSL Elite LC in my opinion mate.
@@KarlGosling I was thinking of upgrading do you mean the whole fanatic rig including wheel? Or just pedals v3?, been enjoying the Logitech but think it’s time to upgrade I managed to get an Xbox series x because I like the console, as I am on console is it worth the move to fanatic?ahhh, pedals..found them, thanks I’ll upgrade me thinks...
So bigger buffer recommended over the smaller one? also I think this pedal mod should help with brake locking.
Personal taste really mate.
so did you ever put the pedals on something more solid then a couch and actually use your feet to guage the feel the pedals lol ?
lol Yes of course!
I have a set of G27 pedals. I want to upgrade the braking. I have a budget of £200, would you recommend this mod or shall I invest in the Fanatec CSL Elite CL pedals?
Fanatec CSL LC are a much better option.
@@KarlGosling thanks, that settles it:)
Can I guess what the mod you’ve got planned is........swap stock rubber with a Haribo Crocodile?
Close!! lol
I seen this mod a month or so ago and I like it I like a stiff pedal and for the money I'm gonna order me one..I do have a full racing rig. Unless this free setup your talking about works? Thanks for the review 👍👍👌
Sounds good.. my free one does indeed work! :)
@@KarlGosling very nice I'll be waiting to see your vid on that Friday. Thanks n god bless👍✌
What would you recommend with someone with a playseat challenge then? (I don’t mind a less hard brake) Thanks :)
The stock G920 brake pedal setup is fine IMO, but for a slightly more progressive feel then the GTEye springs are good, I use all three as the other two pedals are a little light IMO.
@@KarlGosling Thank you very much. Would you recommend the same thing with a game like F1?
Work it with xbox? 😊😅
Is it with the big Rubber, netter then the Standard Brake? Not so kuch Hard with the big Rubber? Because you use the small one? 😁
Yes works with Xbox.
That's personal preference mate, some will like the larger one and others the smaller ones.
@@KarlGosling whats better? New spring or this? Just want it like a Real car. I have an playseat evolution, play on xbox 😅👍
What about just removing black rubber?
It will be smoother and easier to tailbrake?
I drive classics daily so the dead zone is something I'd like to be fair 😂
What do you drive mate? :)
Currently I'm in a 1994 Rover 414 that I have converted to a 1.8 using a mgf solid cam engine and I'm building a 1.4 8v metro gta. Oldest I've had was a 76 mini 1.0 and I've had a all host of austin/rover and Vauxhalls in between.
Obviously you could argue the current two are not of the true classic age but with the demise of Rover they are classed as classics and getting rare now.
@@alexisdp anything you don't see many of are a classic in my book.
Your fingernails are too clean for someone who works on cars every day. Great video though.
hahaha best comment so far! :)
Meow
Meow! lol
Cheap fix: Take your dishwashing sponge, clean and dry. Cut a pice the size of the full spring and put it on top of the hard black rubber, inside the spring. Works like a charm and you can still use 80% of your sponge to wash your dishes. Karl if you are reading this, it would be great if you made a video out of it. Great content!
PD: Remove the hard part of the sponge piece you cut out.
I like the added sound effect of the formula 1 cars passing in the background. Nice video too.
The pot kit they sell is flawed.
The washers. cannot hold the metal clip in place so it falls out all the time.
Also that washer on the old pot is impossible to remove.
There’s a cable mod for the pedals which clears the curve and makes it 10bit instead of 8bit. I feel the cable and this mod would be a perfect combo. The cable is called leo bodnar cable for g25/g27/g29/g920
For everyone in the EU you can also get the 3dRap 12bit adapter without having to pay import tariffs. It works really great, and 12 bit is a dream. That’s what I did. True Brake+Adapter made me much faster and for me the pedals are so good that I won’t upgrade to fanatecs or similar. I also 3D printed a degressive clutch mechanism, and calibrated the bite point in software. This made my old trusty logitech pedals so good that I will upgrade pretty much everything else on my rig before I’ll upgrade them.
Can this be done on PS4? Seems like it would just be on PC. Any web links for process.
@@stub4488 no can't be done with the ps4 at least not easily. If you're on console you have to stick with the weird curve programed inside the wheelbase.
I don't understand how a firm brake pedal is realistic? never have I pressed brake pedal in a car as hard as G920 not even close. you're not Fred Flinstone.
Have you driven, F1, GT3, Rally or any other type of race car mate? Street cars are not hard (until you reach the end of travel), but race cars can be and often are.
@@KarlGosling no i have not pressed break peddle of a high end race car. But F1 is not realistic that’s all there is to that, I understand that’s kind of a dumb statement but what percentage of race car driver have driven a F1 car? What percentage of sim racers regularly race F1?
So realistically even if the G920 was realistically like an F1 car it’s still not realistic to a sim racer. Honestly all the peddles should be “firm” to a point. Which they’re not. The clutch is a joke the gas has no feel. But the break peddle is complete opposite. Impossible to press.
I think f1 cars break peddle is so firm to make it hard to lock up the breaks. Idk how much tourqe it takes to lock up wheels on a F1 car. But let’s say 600ft lbs. if you have a 3/1 ratio of break pressure it would take 200 lbs of force to lock up the breaks. If you had 6/1 it would only take 100 and so on. So you when in F1 you need to mash on the breaks you’re not locking them up. This is just a theory I have no proof.
As I said before the G920 is unrealistic and I should also clarify I’m not comparing to my 94 ram where I have a mile of travel before I start to slow down there should be some firmness the G920 is crazy.
Maybe do a pressure test some how
Cant believe how much detail you do in your video and how professional they are, keep up the good work your my number 1 youtuber when I'm looking at sim racing purchases to check if I'm not wasting my money 👍
Thanks mate very good of you to say! :)
It's easy to adjust if you feel it's too stiff. Just get a lower stiffness spring, then adjust the brake deadzone to 0% minimum and 70% maximum in the game settings, and the true brake mod will work like a charm.
I think buying a really stiff brake pedal mod then making is soft kind of defeats the point of buying it mate?! :) lol
I removed rubber in brake pedal and replaced with an OOSHIE toy (soft squishy toy thats a little buzz lightyear) lol..perfect size ..works bloody great push pedal a bit tuen its ooshie time and the pedal feels closer to real life now .....
Have to disagree with the "don't buy if you don't have a full rig" observation. I originally used this with a dining chair and G29 pedals on the floor against a wall and now on a GT Lite rig with same pedals. Had no problems using the Truebrake mod which I highly recommend. My GT Lite seat doesn't lift off the floor at 100% braking with the angled pedals setup I use but the dining chair did lift off the floor a bit occasionally. I'm 5ft 9 and about 77Kg. I like most of Karl's reviews (apart from most of them being overlong and rambling too much) but not this one.
thanks for a great video,
the only thing missing is HOW the original pins look like and how to get them off safely....
Hi Karl. Good content. Like the clear way you explain stuff. I am a newbie rally sim driver on Xbox One looking into the Logitech G923 with shifter (Thrustmaster is too expensive for me). I am not a F1 fan so I want to get a rallycar experience (sitting more upright). Any tips on seats? Greetings from Holland.
Great review as always Karl and pretty much the reason why I've bought one and waiting patiently for it. Quick question in regards to the console crowd... is there any need to recalibrate the pedal to hit full braking? Or are the in-game deadzone tweaks enough?
Cheers!
Thanks Graham, should be fine, the potentiometer is the exact same range as the original one.
I really appreciate your review and showing how to set it up!
Glad it was helpful!
you could try a urethane rubber hollow bumper (like a skateboard bushing) instead of the spring
i just set my brake pedal in games that max is not at the end of the pedal so i need to press the pedal from 75 to 80% for max and have no complains for my g920 pedals stock
Yup spot on mate, thats what I do.
“You eat the pudding” - Karl Gosling
I didn't install the metal part that goes on the other end of spring because my G29 already had the plastic stock piece there and didn't know it just popped out. It's been working just fine but I'm wondering if I should swap them out because it might crack the black housing that the spring goes into. AXC Sim should update this in there install manual because it doesn't have anything about the extra buffers that come in box nor does it say pop out white stopper. But overall I do like the mod because it shortens the travel.
I think Rob has now updated the instructions.
Fitted this and a stiffer throttle spring today! My god the difference from stock is unreal. 3 seconds a lap off my PB in a slower car round the Nordschleife on the first attempt. Yours was one of the reviews I based the purchase off so thanks. Keep up the good work.
Great to hear!
In my opinion it is just more reasonable to buy a load cell and an arduino and program your own load cell pedal. It will be cheaper than this mod and will be a true load cell and its pretty easy to do. For the price I just dont see the full benefit of going to this upgrade when you can get a load cell mod for cheaper.
any good tuts on this project I did one arduino project before
@@joshuadelorimier1619 Google.. hook up the load cell, read the analog signal and set it as a joystick axis pretty much. Tons of info on google
Anyone here test this on the PS4 with GT Sport where there isn't an in-game setting for calibration? I have a truebrake ordered and wonder how it'll take to GT Sport. Thanks in advance!