Thank you so much my friend, i always worry that things like this will be boring and viewers will get tired if it.. but it is an annual job if you ride in winter, and great housekeeping.. i have 6 units to rebuild in all, so this is the first, then brake master cylinder next, and then clutch... ill leave the other three for later as by then the wheels will be back and i can't wait to get them build up and on the bike..!
@@Moonfleet41 you should always repeat what you've done before for two reasons: 1. You always mention something new. 2. Your filming and presentation skills improve all the time. 😀👍🏻
@@DeafMaker Wow than you so much, that's very kind, and I guess you're right, good old housekeeping tips never grow old, and we all things improve with practice, so we really appreciate your kind words.
I used these pads after doing the same on my CBR 900. Yes they're the bollocks. But the shards from the pads went on the power coated wheels and started to wrek it. So I recommend changing to semi sintered. You are only on the road. Ride safe. Maybe it was just the crap coating on my wheels.
Thank you Allen, you're right, it is really satisfying, I treat each of these little tasks like a separate stand alone project, and make every unit as good as it can be, at least mechanically, it pays you back in the end with a efficient service for years to come! 👍
This caliper (& parts) looks exactly like my GSF600 calipers. I learned to service and rebuild those a few years ago by watching your first video's when you were doing this on your Bandit! Really love the video's a lot, keep it up Del!
Well spotted Davy, they are very similar to the Bandit calipers, these are on sliding mounts, but the caliper body itself is the same casting. Glad you enjoy the videos, and thanks for watching .
That’s why as soon as the salt goes down my bike is oiled up for the winter. Good job Del if I was you I would use silicone brake fluid , I’ve been using it for over 25 years on bikes and cars and had no problems with it, it’s got a very high boiling point, dose not absorb moisture, and won’t Harm the paint work. I use Automec SBF DOT5. It lasts for donkeys years, one thing I forgot to mention it is non-flammable, unlike normal brake fluid. Keep up the good work. Cheers Martin.⚙️🔩🔧👍
Hi Martin, I have been thinking about this, most Harleys have used DOT5 for years, and as the whole system on all three applications will be done dry and clean, it's a great opportunity ti make that change and as you say, it's much nicer to work with than DOT4!
@@Moonfleet41 go for it mate, it’s a little bit more expensive but I think it’s worth it, they use it in racing so it must be good. Cheers Martin ⚙️🔩🔧👍
The quality of the filming and your explanation turned what could be bugger of a job into something most people with a few tools should be able to accomplish. Thanks. I also agree, £48 for refurbishing the front brake is great value for money. But this was an upgrade as well. Money well spent.
Thank you very much Trevor, am glad you enjoyed the video, this can be a lot harder job if things are corroded and solid and, of course, £48 is good value when it's just a two piston kit, but my Hayabusa had six piston calipers, there were two of them on the front as well and a four piston on the back, so with brake hoses and all the related hardware, it was almost £900 to rebuild all of my brakes including pads, it truly can add up! I guess one of the bonuses of a bike with early basic brakes... thank you for your kind support, good to hear from you.
So as the bloody cold, snowy, shitty, miserable winter is about to set in here in Canada, I’m inspired to do my own brake break down and rebuild. Thanks for the tips Del!!
Thank you kindly Sir, you have far more savage winters than we do, so keep warm and safe and the same goes for the dreadful covid situation, all the best mate.
This is such a rewarding bit of maintenance to do yourself & one i always do on the work bench, a can't remember a vehicle I've ever owned where i haven't at least overhauled the brake & braking system itself or upgraded & the cost is nothing compared to the possible outcome if your brakes arn't up to scratch. Nicely done video Del & well explained 10/10 👍
Wow, that Nissin looks brand new, sweet. Del, I just completed 300 miles on my 2008 Dyna Low Rider with Amsoil full syn 20W 50 in the engine and Amsoil syn transmission , Amsoil syn primary lube in the chain case and I have noticed a difference in shifting the bike. I am happy with the changes. I installed a Booster Plug on my 2017 Triumph Street Cup and it has changed the bike. No more catchy throttle at slow speeds and starting from a stop. First through fourth it has opened it up . I have a K & N high flow filter, Free Spirits X- Pipe decat on the Bonneville. Take care, Ride Safe.
Blimey mate, we sound like kindred spirits, same oils in our Harleys and same mods to our Triumphs, you sure you don't have a camera in my garage!! And great choice on the Street Cup... what a cool bike! Have a great weekend mate, thanks for your wonderful support, much appreciated.
Charity shop trip - adopt a robust little sugar bowl or mustard pot with it's own spoon groove & lid, also adopt an artist's small paint brush & a tiny dollop/squeeze/lucky flick of CLEAN copper grease in the bottom of your new savior. Then stir it around & caress knowingly against the pot sides until it's 'just right', apply with care & uniformity, then return the brush to it's neat little porcelain holster for next time. You may bow before me later, for now have a great w/e : ) xx
£48 is no money, you're right it is a bargain! I did it to my Tiger and the pistons alone cost that. The brakes are brilliant now, actually better than they should be for a twin caliper, same as the one you've refurbished. I bit the bullet this year after really sore shoulders, ripping the bike out of its wee enclosure on an icy morning with seized brakes so really invested in my brakes this year, I even bought used spare calipers. Far easier to bleed than strip clean reassemble, then bleed and be ready for 6.30am next morning. Thanks for the vid.
Without these videos i would never have the nerve to tackle the upgrades on my Z750s. This are SO helpful. Now I can get to work on my winter servicing and upgrades. BRAZO Del!
Hey buddy, good to hear from you again, hope life is good for you and you're keeping well. These are just house keeping jobs, and will save you a fortune in garage bills if you do them yourself. take care and keep safe mate. Del.
Wow you got lucky with them brake seal beds, when I seen the state of the fluid I figured the seal beds would be encrusted with crap and they were near spotless, I have been caught a few times and it takes so long to clean and scrap all the crap out, loving the pistions and couldnt have come at a better time, my missus XRV750 front pistons are shot there is so much rust and chips in them, bikei s a 93 sure, so Ill be getting a TRK kit for that
Sure thing mate, this was a weird situation, any filthy caliper is usually a bun fight to clean out the seal grooves, and I usually use Autosol and a toothbrush diluted with a little water... and gently massage the crud out, rather than use spiky tools, cos it's pretty easy to score the bores... sometimes it's so bad you do need to reach for a seal pick... I've done a couple of master cylinders as well now (next couple of videos), and what is in there appears to be more like liquid slime, rather than sediment, and I'm increasingly thinking it's due to a brake fluid mix up, it looks a lot like the mess you get when you accidentally mix DOT5 with anything else... so I'm going to be needing to clean up every single internal part!
Nicely done, Del! These maintenance type vids are especially helpful and very much appreciated by this humble student of yours. My 03 Fatboy will be getting a full work-over this spring and the brakes included of course! Many thx, Mate... Wishing you both a pleasant weekend there! 🏍👍🏍
Hey Gary, good move, an annual brake service is essential if you ride in the rain and as we're finding from a few viewers, even if you live in the hot dry desert and hardly ever see rain, the dust can still bring you nightmares, so it's never wrong to do overhauls... have a wonderful weekend yourself, we're still in lockdown here but as you know, we can still work, getting through it, stay safe both and chat soon! D&Px
Thanks Del, always nice to see these routine maintenance tasks. And even for those that are familiar, there are opportunities to pick up tips and reinforce best practices. So well done as always.
Thank you Donald, I always worry that perhaps sometimes these 'bread and butter' videos might patronise those with the same skills and experience as we, but like you say sometimes even if it nudges someone to get out and do it, it's worth it, specially at this time of year!
Hi Ed, they certainly are mate, I've done more detailed videos on copper sintered pads in the past, covering more specifically the nature of the compound, I'm by no means an expert on it, but from sheer experience, I know these are a good move, the pad face has literally more drag against the face of the disc, so you need less lever pressure at the bars, and if you do need to haul up quickly, then they really come in to their own... plus also they make less dust, so will stay cleaner for longer and as I said, the only tiny drawback is that they will wear the disc itself slightly quicker, but as I've said in the video, wear is inevitable, and a perfectly acceptable trade off for better brakes!
Ha ha now that made me chuckle, perhaps it would have needed a change of logo on the outside of the box or you might have got it up the side of your head... thanks for the smile mate.
Nice rebuild video, nothing like paying attention to every minute detail. Good value on that kit, it also cam with the pads which could certainly eat up most of the 48 quid. Enjoyed, cheers!
Hi there mate, sorry if that was a little misleading, it didn't come with the brake pads, just about everything else, but not the pads, they were another £24, but still a bargain compared to the Hayabusa with 6-pot calipers and a 4-pot on the rear, that little lot with full sintered pads all round as nearly £900! ;-0
Thanks John, appreciate those kind words. More to come as there are 6 hydraulic units in all, ill do the two on the bars in the next couple of videos....but then the wheels should be here, so ill leave the rest till after that !
Very well done, Del. I really appreciate the close up shots that show is such detail how things are done. I do believe you have found your calling. One of them, anyway! Please keep up the good work, team DBG. Fondest greetings from across the pond.
Thank you kindly Sir, really glad you enjoy it! It's a lot of work, so it's great to know it's appreciated... have a great weekend, keep well and safe there!
Got my SV Trks ready for spring. I got the 3 caliper kit for 72 quid and as you say, a real bargain. Beats any ebay price. But back to you, another great video! Keep it up, Del!
Thanks Ian, trying to go for a subtle, but chunky front end, didn't want tiny little indicators that are almost invisible, they look great on some bikes, but didn't want that for this one, just the right size and match with the headlight! 👍
@@Moonfleet41 I u8se them on my Superglide as well. It went from a 4 finger death grip just to get it to start slowing down, to breaks that almost work!
@@jimmyjimjim3054 haha four finger death grip, how so do I know that fateful feeling?! When the brain starts looking for places to disembark and the phrase, this is gonna hurt, creeps in to your head!
Hi Del, I hope everything goes well and thanks for your videos, about it I have some questions about the products you use : what is the Wurth AL 1100 spray used for? what is the ROCOL Anti-seize compound used for? where do you buy the sealing washers copper for the brake pipes, are they special washers? What is the best way / product to clean brake fluid residues that have become encrusted inside the brake system? What kind of red grease did you use to mount the pistons? Thanks for your help !!!
del listen your videos are fantastic, usually I know how it works but when I see you working I always learn something new really the best videos I always look forward to a new video
I just noticed with you rebuilding that caliper that it’s the same as a Honda CBR 600f2, I have a 94. I do believe the forks are the same as well. You could probably swap the right side fork and run a dual break set up on the front if that is ever a direction you’d want to go with.
Sure thing buddy, they are widely used, early VFR750's, even the almighty CBR1000F I believe, and yeah good trick with the right hand leg, it would need a few other mods, like a bigger master cylinder and a different hub to mount the disc on the right, and obviously all of that provided the CBR is a 43mm fork, but it's that kind of thinking that make killer mods that are really subtle... perhaps on the next build, always looking to stretch forward!
God I hate you Del, giving me more work to do. 😂😂. With the snow flying in central Canada and the 89 Goldwing sitting in the corner of the shop, it’ll be going on the lift to service the callipers that I’m sure have never seen that kind of service. Keep up the great work and I always look forward to your videos. 👍👍
Hi Alan, wow that's a cool project... if you're gonna fit a bigger disc, then obviously you'll need a caliper bracket to move it out to the wider circumference, but have a look at the Brembo conversion that Harley Davidson offer, I've got one on my Dyna WideGlide and they are, without doubt, the best brakes I've ever felt on any Harley Davidson I've ever ridden... you get a 4 piston Brembo caliper, the kind you find on Ducati's, and you get a 300mm semi floating disc, but the relevant bolt on brackets to fit them to your Harley, not cheap, but you pull the brakes in once on a test ride and you'll see the benefit of every penny they cost.... there's also Performance Machine, but they're not quite as good as the Brembo upgrade, a little bit more show than go, if you ask me.... Let us know how you get on mate, and of course, reach out if there's anything I can help with! It'd be an honour to give a second opinion if you get stuck!
@@Moonfleet41 I was looking at the Arlen Ness big rota kit. It’s a 15 inch disc n comes with bracket to move the calliper about £300 all in. Reviews I’ve seen have been good
don't forget to put a bit of copper grease on the bleed nipple, it's stainless, it'll react with the ally caliper! as for getting the old pistons out, use compressed air, it's cleaner.
Sure thing mate, it wasn't grainy even in the slightest, it was more like a slimy gel which makes me think that, perhaps, somebody at some point has accidentally put some DOT5 fluid in it, then realised and tried to flush it through, which of course, as you can see, doesn't work... and is also the reason why I'm gonna have to throw the brake hose out and buy a new one... washed out perfectly well though, dried and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and good as new now!
Great camera work with clear instructions and detailed explanations ,, this is why you go from strength to strength ! are you watching discovery chanel ?? star in the making
Hello Mike, my word, thank you so much my friend, for what it's worth, we did have an approach about 8yrs ago from the Discovery people, and asked to submit some videos for their Turbo Hub, and out of 20 videos we sent, they used maybe 7 of them as features, it was a great honour to be involved although there was no pay back from it, just the honour of being involved with Discovery... of course it did increase our circulation a great deal... it would appear that Discovery have closed the Turbo Hub now, the main programme featured on it was Wheeler Dealers, and although they have a whole new platform now, we have the great honour of being a 'featured Channel' on their You Tube Channel platform and they are just about to bring the show back to England after many years filming in America, so you never know, perhaps we'll get a call one day... what a dream come true that would be!
@@Moonfleet41 Can i have yours and pennys autographs ? rest of the world i knew them before they were famous ( revisit this in 5 years ) like i say before not kissing arse but you do have a way that makes it easy to understand , and that my friend is why you have not only grown but have let use mere mortals learn
@@MikeButler05 Once again mate, you're too kind, it's just a hobby that got a bit out of hand and we were shocked at how many people reach out for help and it's a pleasure to help, after all, the bike community used to be like that in person, but not so much these days. Take care, keep safe and enjoy your weekend!
Great video! Can you tell me why you used white lithium grease? Could you also use high temperature bearing grease? A reply would be greatly appreciated
Please educate me: I always forget which way the anti-rattle spring clip fits. It’s not symmetrical so there must be a right way? And why don’t you put copper grease on a) the nipple thread & b) back of pads?
Always observe spring clips before you dis-assemble, it even helps to snap a photo with your phonr if you're likely to forget and I will fully lube all brake parts on the final plumb up and assembly... these are just dry built for now and the whole lot will stay indoors till it's finished!
Most welcome Sir, we have 6 of these to do in all, but just gonna do a couple more in the next videos and then step sideways as the wheels will be back in a week or so, we can do the other 3 later on!
Brilliant job, again attention to detail. I have to do my veradero front calipers so this was superb. Excellent only one thing bring back some music.... Please
Quick question Del - in this video and the one for the Bonneville upgrade, you used red grease on the pistons. In your videos on the front caliper rebuild (4 pot that time I think), you advised against using anything other than brake fluid on the seals/pistons when reinstalling. Any reason for the difference there?
just a thought, that caliper reminds me of the XJ900s diversion / divi 900 caliper. the yamaha blue spot/ blue star calipers bolt straight on to the divi 900, and make a huge difference to stopping the bike. I'm wondering IF you could bolt one of those straight on, cos they bolt straight onto the divi 900.... anyway.. blue spots can be picked up for not much lol my words are not working today.. lmao Pulled all my susupension linkages apart to put new bearings in, only to find the bearing bush at the top of the shocker to be fubar.. fowlers want £30 is for it.. but no idea when it can come. found one on fleabay.... might be here next friday! I did all the bearings back in 2014, did them properly, with full decent grease inside the needle rollers, made some thin rubber seals, and th wear has been really minimal.
Yes these calipers are very common, I can think of half a dozen bikes that have them, and their great flexibility is on the slide mounting, the caliper can mount to a disc with anything between a 10-12mm off set, whereas a fixed caliper like a Blue Spot (which usually lives on a semi floating disc), doesn't move side to side, it has a fixed off set, which may have just happened to fit the XJ and it could well fit the Triumph, but there's no guarantee the off set is the same... so it'd have to line up perfectly with the off set on the disc... but anything is an improvement over these calipers, and as I didn't want to change them, I wanted to make them as efficient as possible for what they are.
Nice job. I notice you didn't put a smidgen of copper grease on the new brake pad pin, which is something I always do. I know it won't be an oversight on your part ;-), so what's your thinking there Del?
I see, that would be a mis-use of anti-seize my friend, that product's never to be applied between two rubbing faces, it will act as an abrasive and score the metal over time, I find that provided it's a stainless steel pin, they re best left dry as any grease will form a thick paste when it mixes with brake dust and road grime and actually impede movement as that section of the pin is exposed, it's easily cleaned off with a wheel brush and some soap to keep it free moving. If you do want to grease any form of sliding pin, it's important they have a covering dust boot to keep out the grit and like the slide pins on this caliper, I use a white lithium grease, it's heat resistant and silky smooth, will not cause abrasion like anti-seize. Anti-seize is more suited to stop fixed mating surfaces from corroding together by providing a non-ferrous barrier hence I used it on the thread.
Thanks Del for a great video! I rebuilt my caliper earlier this year (Triumph, the same caliper as yours probably). Fitted new pistons and seals, but yet there is a small leakage (which I hadn't observed before the rebuild). Any clue as to what could have happened? Bad aftermarket seals? I polished the calipers with autosol on the inside but was careful to avoid using steel brush / sandpaper.
If you have a little more background on that Lucas, where exactly is the leak coming from? Is it leaking out the piston seals literally, or coming from elsewhere?
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the reply. The leakage is definitely from the calipers, that is, the brake fluid must somehow slip through the seals, although in a small quantity.
@@lucasbrynte7083 OK, brake fluid is like any other leaking fluid, it's not always apparent where it's coming from as the fluid tends to flow all over the unit and end up in other areas.. is it maybe possible they the fluid is weeping from the bleed valve seat, is it tight enough?, maybe corroded, Or maybe could it be weeping from the banjo bolt seal, there should be two brand new copper washers either side of the banjo union to make a perfect seal.! It;s far more likely that the fluid is weeping from one of those places rather then actually pushing past a seal.!! maybe wash the caliper totally clean and dry it.. then tape the lever in to pressurise the fluid and look really close at those places with a bright light on it and see if you can see it coming out..! Hope that helps mate. Good luck with it.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 It is far from all over the place - and I can just remember seeing a few drops around the piston area. Anyhow, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer - I will investigate as you advised
No mate, lithium grease is perfect for slide pins and much the same as silicone grease, it softens and actually conditions rubber to prevent perishing, it's also heat resistant and water resistant... !
Nice and detailed video. Love your content. Found you recently and I am watching some of the playlists. One think I would want to know your opinion about. I sometimes see you touching bearings and in this case the brake piston with your hands. Are you not worried about the acids in your hand corroding the parts? (In the aviation industry it is a No-Go.)
Friday the 13th bike had mot and had a advisory about the front forks. He said that they wasn't straight they were slightly out from the handlebars and need to be straight. He said that undo the yoke and tap the wheel against a wall which would straitened them true again. The forks are straight and not bent. Please help me with this problem. Thanks Del. By the way it's a ybr 125. Lol
Very satisfying to see the whole process that ended up in an excellent work. I would like to know what is that red machine that you're using for the cleaning of the caliper and were I could buy one. Very helpful video and excellent job done!
I have the same question, and found this: www.wiltec.de/parts-washer-cleaner-cleaning-tank-workshop-garage-13-25-litres.html Or try to google "garage parts washer"
Here you go buddy, this is the one I use, wonderfully reliable and really handy as you can see... www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637200307/parts-cleaning-tank-benchportable
hi del i remember doing the breaks a few years back on an old z750 absolute nightmare m8 pistons were rusted in seal werent even there m8 pig of a job i got there in the end though
Great video Del I will be doing that job shortly on my zx7r. I will be ordering the rebuild kit from wemoto the only problem is a previous owner has changed the tokico six pot calipers for tokico four pot ones how do I know what parts to order any ideas buddy ?
Hi mate, that's a tricky one, I know people have a bit of a downer on 6 pot tokies, but usually the upgrade is Nissin 4 pots from a Bandit, which I had on my ZX7R, but if they're tokie 4 pots you'll have to find out what they cam from... or at least what other bikes they fit on to so you can order the right kit... if absolutely all else fails, and you have no idea, then you can send a piston and a pair of seals to Wemoto and they'll match them for you...(and just a quick PS, if you're gonna send one, make sure they're the same size, as tokie calipers often have variable size pistons, so you may have to send the lot!)... but if you know what bike they came from, just order them, and the same goes for the pads.
@@Moonfleet41 cheers for the reply unfortunately I have no idea what bike they came off so I will do as you suggest and strip the caliper and send off the piston and seals. That's my Sunday sorted 😁
another great video del any plans to do winter storage for those of us with bike in sheds do remember you did something like that for pennys sportster camera work great as always
Thanks Arthur, I do remember that one many years ago, and I reckon that would be a pretty good video, thanks for the nudge, I'll have a plan through and see if we can fit it in!
I upgraded my rotors(EBC) on my car 20,000 miles ago with the oem pads. I found that they last longer that way. (BMW e46 325 sport auto), they ARE better braking too. I had looked at ebc pads for my Bikes(3) but for me, I think I'll go with ebc upgrade rotors and stock pads. N.B shoe-string budget. lol
Hey, i totally get that Tim, work with what you have... thankfully car rotors are cheap as chips compared to bike discs, so it's perfectly possible... no so much with a bike if you on a shoe-string budget..!
No mate, it was with an approved degreaser that works with the part washer and the, of course, copious squirtage with much brake cleaner to eliminate any residue of the degreaser!
Sure thing mate, they cost me a fortune on the Hayabusa to use TRK pistons, as there are 16 of them in all, and with the pads and all the seals, I was nearly up to £900, but those Tokico brakes are absolutely astonishing now... one finger braking from any speed, just hauls it to a stop... !
For anyone reading this who's just watched this video & thinking ehh what a mess do yourself a favour & ask yourself when your brake fluid was last changed ( Any vehicle doesn't have to be a bike ) brake fluids hygroscopic it absorbs moisture out the atmosphere & that's what happens if you don't change it, should be changed every 2 yrs admittedly that doesn't look like its been changed in at least the last decade, but get yours changed might just save your life
Correct words all the way my friend, thank you for that valuable input, I've seen this kind of slimy brown sludge a few times and I have a feeling with this bike that that could have possibly been the accidental application of some DOT5 fluid, which doesn't mix and just causes this sticky sludge, having seen the inside of the master cylinder by now, it's much the same, it's not sandy, it isn't rust and it's nothing to do with the brake hose as it's at the top end as well as the bottom... 4 & 5 don't mix as you know, and I reckon someone's accidentally picked up the wrong bottle many years ago... tried to flush it through once they realised, but as this shows, you never get it all out just by flushing... once again, thank you for your input my friend, wise words indeed.
Hi buddy, thanks for your kind words, I thought I'd get asked that one, which is why I held the can up tot he camera (perhaps you missed it), it's good old fashioned white lithium grease, perfect lubricant for slide pins.
@@Moonfleet41 .. what I saw was pink or red...( not see that color here) I used white grease from spray can here USA. I often questioned myself if safe put together using silicone grease which is clear color. Love the upgrade of stainless steel... Kwel!!
Great video. Usual attention to detail and super instructive. Was just wondering about the use of the rubber grease. I have a vague recollection of a previous calliper build saying don't use grease as its a contaminant. Is there a bit of a rethink on this? Cheers Sam
Hi Sam, There are more kinds of 'grease' than we can count, for all manner of different jobs, All mechanical parts usually benefit from some form of lubrication when being assembled, and a regular LM grease is the normal go to choice for general assembly, but it would indeed be a corrosive contaminant to rubber parts generally, (there are always exceptions naturally), The Red Rubber Grease however is made for the job, a specialist lubricant similar to silicone grease that contains no oil distillates, it is generally considered to not only lubricate rubber parts, but also soften and condition rubber for longevity, and is included in the brake seal kit for just that purpose. Hope that clears it up mate.
@@Moonfleet41 All good. I'm guessing they wouldn't put it in the kit if it was likely to cause issues. I've got a lesser quality kit to go in my bike so I might see if I can get something similar to help the process. On another topic - I got a parts washer the other week but cannot seem to get a straight answer anywhere on what to put in it (some fluids destroy the parts / some the washer itself / some are just dangerous) any chance of a review/vid on this? Cheers Sam
@@samp5690 Working on your agreement that if something is in the kit, then it's supposed to be there and applicable for the job, here's the parts washer solvent I use... it's not emulsify-able so you can't dilute it with water, but keeps working even when it's dirty and contaminated so lasts ages... it's supplied specifically for the job so you can rest assured mate it won't be dangerous.
Great practice mate, works a treat, certainly better than bone dry, but if like me, they're gonna sit with no fluid in (other than that little smear you had on assembly), for potentially many months, then I prefer to use the red rubber grease that comes in the kit... the brake fluid washes it straight out the minute you bleed them up, and it lasts a lot longer in a dry caliper than a dab of clean fluid... clean fluid is great if you're bleeding them up straight away.
Don't know if I am just weird, but I never tire of watching you do brake rebuilds. There always seems to be something new to be learnt.
Thank you so much my friend, i always worry that things like this will be boring and viewers will get tired if it.. but it is an annual job if you ride in winter, and great housekeeping.. i have 6 units to rebuild in all, so this is the first, then brake master cylinder next, and then clutch... ill leave the other three for later as by then the wheels will be back and i can't wait to get them build up and on the bike..!
@@Moonfleet41 you should always repeat what you've done before for two reasons:
1. You always mention something new.
2. Your filming and presentation skills improve all the time. 😀👍🏻
@@DeafMaker Wow than you so much, that's very kind, and I guess you're right, good old housekeeping tips never grow old, and we all things improve with practice, so we really appreciate your kind words.
I used these pads after doing the same on my CBR 900. Yes they're the bollocks. But the shards from the pads went on the power coated wheels and started to wrek it. So I recommend changing to semi sintered. You are only on the road. Ride safe. Maybe it was just the crap coating on my wheels.
Very satisfying to rebuild a caliper to such a standard! Great video all-round!
Thank you Allen, you're right, it is really satisfying, I treat each of these little tasks like a separate stand alone project, and make every unit as good as it can be, at least mechanically, it pays you back in the end with a efficient service for years to come! 👍
That’s why they put two discs/calipers on the t-bird sport version of this bike. It’s a heavy beast.
All your content, but especially this series on the TT Legend-best motorcycle content on TH-cam, BY FAR. Thanks.
My word Guy, you're really too kind mate, im glad the series has captured you imagination, and thank you so much for those kind words..
This caliper (& parts) looks exactly like my GSF600 calipers. I learned to service and rebuild those a few years ago by watching your first video's when you were doing this on your Bandit! Really love the video's a lot, keep it up Del!
Well spotted Davy, they are very similar to the Bandit calipers, these are on sliding mounts, but the caliper body itself is the same casting. Glad you enjoy the videos, and thanks for watching .
My favourite bike job, giving the calipers a good clean and new seals.
That’s why as soon as the salt goes down my bike is oiled up for the winter. Good job Del if I was you I would use silicone brake fluid , I’ve been using it for over 25 years on bikes and cars and had no problems with it, it’s got a very high boiling point, dose not absorb moisture, and won’t Harm the paint work. I use Automec SBF DOT5. It lasts for donkeys years, one thing I forgot to mention it is non-flammable, unlike normal brake fluid. Keep up the good work. Cheers Martin.⚙️🔩🔧👍
Hi Martin, I have been thinking about this, most Harleys have used DOT5 for years, and as the whole system on all three applications will be done dry and clean, it's a great opportunity ti make that change and as you say, it's much nicer to work with than DOT4!
@@Moonfleet41 go for it mate, it’s a little bit more expensive but I think it’s worth it, they use it in racing so it must be good. Cheers Martin ⚙️🔩🔧👍
The quality of the filming and your explanation turned what could be bugger of a job into something most people with a few tools should be able to accomplish. Thanks. I also agree, £48 for refurbishing the front brake is great value for money. But this was an upgrade as well. Money well spent.
Thank you very much Trevor, am glad you enjoyed the video, this can be a lot harder job if things are corroded and solid and, of course, £48 is good value when it's just a two piston kit, but my Hayabusa had six piston calipers, there were two of them on the front as well and a four piston on the back, so with brake hoses and all the related hardware, it was almost £900 to rebuild all of my brakes including pads, it truly can add up! I guess one of the bonuses of a bike with early basic brakes... thank you for your kind support, good to hear from you.
So as the bloody cold, snowy, shitty, miserable winter is about to set in here in Canada, I’m inspired to do my own brake break down and rebuild. Thanks for the tips Del!!
Thank you kindly Sir, you have far more savage winters than we do, so keep warm and safe and the same goes for the dreadful covid situation, all the best mate.
This is such a rewarding bit of maintenance to do yourself & one i always do on the work bench, a can't remember a vehicle I've ever owned where i haven't at least overhauled the brake & braking system itself or upgraded & the cost is nothing compared to the possible outcome if your brakes arn't up to scratch.
Nicely done video Del & well explained 10/10 👍
Wise words well said my friend.. and thank you for your support!
One of the jobs I learned from you when I done my brakes last year..love these type of videos thanks del 👍
Glad to help my friend, and always good to hear form you..
I couldn't believe the crud that came out of that caliper. Great informative video. Thanks
Sure thing mate, me too, what a mess!
Great upgrades sir. Just finished the rear on my bike. Your video’s are a great help thank you.
Thanks for your feedback Mark, really glad you enjoy the videos!
Wow, that Nissin looks brand new, sweet. Del, I just completed 300 miles on my 2008 Dyna Low Rider with Amsoil full syn 20W 50 in the engine and Amsoil syn transmission , Amsoil syn primary lube in the chain case and I have noticed a difference in shifting the bike. I am happy with the changes.
I installed a Booster Plug on my 2017 Triumph Street Cup and it has changed the bike. No more catchy throttle at slow speeds and starting from a stop. First through fourth it has opened it up . I have a K & N high flow filter, Free Spirits X- Pipe decat on the Bonneville. Take care, Ride Safe.
Blimey mate, we sound like kindred spirits, same oils in our Harleys and same mods to our Triumphs, you sure you don't have a camera in my garage!! And great choice on the Street Cup... what a cool bike! Have a great weekend mate, thanks for your wonderful support, much appreciated.
Nice rebuild Del. you can never have to much brake power. Penny and you have a relaxing weekend, take care. Cheers
You too mate, have fun and keep safe, just enjoying a rare relaxing day at home today, hope you're doing the same.. Al the best mate. D&Pxx
Charity shop trip - adopt a robust little sugar bowl or mustard pot with it's own spoon groove & lid, also adopt an artist's small paint brush & a tiny dollop/squeeze/lucky flick of CLEAN copper grease in the bottom of your new savior. Then stir it around & caress knowingly against the pot sides until it's 'just right', apply with care & uniformity, then return the brush to it's neat little porcelain holster for next time. You may bow before me later, for now have a great w/e : ) xx
You're a man of 'many genius'... but have been watching too much Antiques Roadshow brother! ;-0
100% perfect !!! You can see the love in your work as you bring the parts to new life!
Wow, thank you, it is a deeply rewarding process and very therapeutic, specially at a time like this!
£48 is no money, you're right it is a bargain! I did it to my Tiger and the pistons alone cost that. The brakes are brilliant now, actually better than they should be for a twin caliper, same as the one you've refurbished. I bit the bullet this year after really sore shoulders, ripping the bike out of its wee enclosure on an icy morning with seized brakes so really invested in my brakes this year, I even bought used spare calipers. Far easier to bleed than strip clean reassemble, then bleed and be ready for 6.30am next morning. Thanks for the vid.
Sure think buddy, what a great policy, a spare caliper is just plain common sense if you ride all year! Take care and keep well and safe, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 You too, keep safe and well. Mind and have handsan when you leave the shops.
Without these videos i would never have the nerve to tackle the upgrades on my Z750s. This are SO helpful.
Now I can get to work on my winter servicing and upgrades. BRAZO Del!
Glad to help Mike, good luck with yours.
Hiya mate, enjoyed that. You make all these jobs look easy and clean. Hope you’re well kind regards.
Hey buddy, good to hear from you again, hope life is good for you and you're keeping well. These are just house keeping jobs, and will save you a fortune in garage bills if you do them yourself. take care and keep safe mate. Del.
Wow you got lucky with them brake seal beds, when I seen the state of the fluid I figured the seal beds would be encrusted with crap and they were near spotless, I have been caught a few times and it takes so long to clean and scrap all the crap out, loving the pistions and couldnt have come at a better time, my missus XRV750 front pistons are shot there is so much rust and chips in them, bikei s a 93 sure, so Ill be getting a TRK kit for that
Sure thing mate, this was a weird situation, any filthy caliper is usually a bun fight to clean out the seal grooves, and I usually use Autosol and a toothbrush diluted with a little water... and gently massage the crud out, rather than use spiky tools, cos it's pretty easy to score the bores... sometimes it's so bad you do need to reach for a seal pick... I've done a couple of master cylinders as well now (next couple of videos), and what is in there appears to be more like liquid slime, rather than sediment, and I'm increasingly thinking it's due to a brake fluid mix up, it looks a lot like the mess you get when you accidentally mix DOT5 with anything else... so I'm going to be needing to clean up every single internal part!
Always looking forward to Friday night so I can enjoy the pleasure of watching your videos! Thanks man
We appreciate that Alberto, knowing the work is enjoyed is reward in itself, thank you, keep well and safe there!
Watching a Biker version of how too .. always making Time Del to 'STOP' and Brake to explain . 🏍️
Great to watch for a bit of cheering up on a wet, miserable Saturday morning :0) - thanks as always for sharing Del!
Nicely done, Del! These maintenance type vids are especially helpful and very much appreciated by this humble student of yours. My 03 Fatboy will be getting a full work-over this spring and the brakes included of course! Many thx, Mate... Wishing you both a pleasant weekend there! 🏍👍🏍
Hey Gary, good move, an annual brake service is essential if you ride in the rain and as we're finding from a few viewers, even if you live in the hot dry desert and hardly ever see rain, the dust can still bring you nightmares, so it's never wrong to do overhauls... have a wonderful weekend yourself, we're still in lockdown here but as you know, we can still work, getting through it, stay safe both and chat soon! D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 yessir. And getting increases in cases and more restrictions here as well. This too shall pass. Stay safe! 😎
Nice tidy job, only thing that I'd say is use ceramic brake grease (ceratec) instead of white lithium and your copper grease 😉
Thanks Del, always nice to see these routine maintenance tasks. And even for those that are familiar, there are opportunities to pick up tips and reinforce best practices. So well done as always.
Thank you Donald, I always worry that perhaps sometimes these 'bread and butter' videos might patronise those with the same skills and experience as we, but like you say sometimes even if it nudges someone to get out and do it, it's worth it, specially at this time of year!
I love watching your videos Del. Meticulous and methodical. Wise words and sage advice. Keep 'em coming owd son
Thanks Bob, will do mate, really appreciate your kind words. !
Thanks guys! Great vid. The braking on my street twin at times is not good. So those break pads might be a good upgrade. Ride safe
Hi Ed, they certainly are mate, I've done more detailed videos on copper sintered pads in the past, covering more specifically the nature of the compound, I'm by no means an expert on it, but from sheer experience, I know these are a good move, the pad face has literally more drag against the face of the disc, so you need less lever pressure at the bars, and if you do need to haul up quickly, then they really come in to their own... plus also they make less dust, so will stay cleaner for longer and as I said, the only tiny drawback is that they will wear the disc itself slightly quicker, but as I've said in the video, wear is inevitable, and a perfectly acceptable trade off for better brakes!
Great job Del. Those brake pistons came in a nicer looking box than my wife's wedding ring!
Ha ha now that made me chuckle, perhaps it would have needed a change of logo on the outside of the box or you might have got it up the side of your head... thanks for the smile mate.
Nice rebuild video, nothing like paying attention to every minute detail. Good value on that kit, it also cam with the pads which could certainly eat up most of the 48 quid. Enjoyed, cheers!
Hi there mate, sorry if that was a little misleading, it didn't come with the brake pads, just about everything else, but not the pads, they were another £24, but still a bargain compared to the Hayabusa with 6-pot calipers and a 4-pot on the rear, that little lot with full sintered pads all round as nearly £900! ;-0
Great Video as usual, and what a well organised workshop. Love watching you work.
Chris
Thanks 👍
Toujours aussi passionnant. "...it's a kind of magic"...
Great job sir. Especially sourcing higher quality brake pistons. Looks like a fun build looking forward to more
Thanks John, appreciate those kind words. More to come as there are 6 hydraulic units in all, ill do the two on the bars in the next couple of videos....but then the wheels should be here, so ill leave the rest till after that !
You are the best brake re-builder ✌️👍
Thanks ✌
Very well done, Del. I really appreciate the close up shots that show is such detail how things are done. I do believe you have found your calling. One of them, anyway! Please keep up the good work, team DBG. Fondest greetings from across the pond.
Thank you kindly Sir, really glad you enjoy it! It's a lot of work, so it's great to know it's appreciated... have a great weekend, keep well and safe there!
Perfect video. Thanks for sharing it with us :)
Fantastic video, I'll be following the same ritual when rebuilding the calipers for the CBR 👌🏼
Got my SV Trks ready for spring. I got the 3 caliper kit for 72 quid and as you say, a real bargain. Beats any ebay price. But back to you, another great video! Keep it up, Del!
Thanks Adrian, great to hear that mate, a bargain indeed! Enjoy your project, have lots of fun with it!
Another excellent video , I am really enjoying this series very much .
Glad you enjoy it Kenneth, plenty more to come!
Same calipers as my VFR 750 and probably many other bikes, not the best but as you quite rightly said better with the sintered pads.
SUre thing mate seen these calipers on so many bikes over years, they're actually quite good, and pretty efficient as long as they're well kept!
You made it look easy Del, like you always do and I have to say those indicators look great.
Thanks Ian, trying to go for a subtle, but chunky front end, didn't want tiny little indicators that are almost invisible, they look great on some bikes, but didn't want that for this one, just the right size and match with the headlight! 👍
I really like this project, looking forward to the next video
EBC make great pads. I use them on my 675R trackday bike.
No better endorsement than that then! Thanks for the feedback buddy, and ride safe.
@@Moonfleet41 I u8se them on my Superglide as well. It went from a 4 finger death grip just to get it to start slowing down, to breaks that almost work!
@@jimmyjimjim3054 haha four finger death grip, how so do I know that fateful feeling?! When the brain starts looking for places to disembark and the phrase, this is gonna hurt, creeps in to your head!
Amigo, that's a Master class!!!. A new fantastic video.
Glad you enjoyed it, many thanks!
Great video fantastic job del looking forward to next one stay safe 🇬🇧👍🏻
Thanks, Richard, you too mate, have a great weekend. !
Hi Del, I hope everything goes well and thanks for your videos, about it I have some questions about the products you use :
what is the Wurth AL 1100 spray used for?
what is the ROCOL Anti-seize compound used for?
where do you buy the sealing washers copper for the brake pipes, are they special washers?
What is the best way / product to clean brake fluid residues that have become encrusted inside the brake system?
What kind of red grease did you use to mount the pistons?
Thanks for your help !!!
del listen your videos are fantastic, usually I know how it works but when I see you working I always learn something new
really the best videos I always look forward to a new video
Thank you mate, that's very kind, and am glad the videos can inspire you a little at the same time!
Superb as always Delboy.
I just noticed with you rebuilding that caliper that it’s the same as a Honda CBR 600f2, I have a 94. I do believe the forks are the same as well. You could probably swap the right side fork and run a dual break set up on the front if that is ever a direction you’d want to go with.
Sure thing buddy, they are widely used, early VFR750's, even the almighty CBR1000F I believe, and yeah good trick with the right hand leg, it would need a few other mods, like a bigger master cylinder and a different hub to mount the disc on the right, and obviously all of that provided the CBR is a 43mm fork, but it's that kind of thinking that make killer mods that are really subtle... perhaps on the next build, always looking to stretch forward!
God I hate you Del, giving me more work to do. 😂😂. With the snow flying in central Canada and the 89 Goldwing sitting in the corner of the shop, it’ll be going on the lift to service the callipers that I’m sure have never seen that kind of service. Keep up the great work and I always look forward to your videos. 👍👍
Thank you AJ, I feel for you guys having so many months of snow, but I guess it gives you a good chance to get everything spick and span fo Spring!
Another good video. One of the jobs I’m looking to do on my sporty over the winter is upgrade the brakes. Was thinking of putting a bigger disk on it.
Hi Alan, wow that's a cool project... if you're gonna fit a bigger disc, then obviously you'll need a caliper bracket to move it out to the wider circumference, but have a look at the Brembo conversion that Harley Davidson offer, I've got one on my Dyna WideGlide and they are, without doubt, the best brakes I've ever felt on any Harley Davidson I've ever ridden... you get a 4 piston Brembo caliper, the kind you find on Ducati's, and you get a 300mm semi floating disc, but the relevant bolt on brackets to fit them to your Harley, not cheap, but you pull the brakes in once on a test ride and you'll see the benefit of every penny they cost.... there's also Performance Machine, but they're not quite as good as the Brembo upgrade, a little bit more show than go, if you ask me.... Let us know how you get on mate, and of course, reach out if there's anything I can help with! It'd be an honour to give a second opinion if you get stuck!
@@Moonfleet41 I was looking at the Arlen Ness big rota kit. It’s a 15 inch disc n comes with bracket to move the calliper about £300 all in. Reviews I’ve seen have been good
4:29 clever one!
Porządna naprawa , brawo
don't forget to put a bit of copper grease on the bleed nipple, it's stainless, it'll react with the ally caliper! as for getting the old pistons out, use compressed air, it's cleaner.
Just keep your fingers out of the way
15ukraine
Have to agree mate. Found that out the hard way years ago...... never forgot strangely!😂
What's the cleaning solution in the red bucket that you used to clean the calipers?
Well overdue job - I've never seen such manky calipers. That stuff in the back of the caliper behind the pistons looked like grease!!
Sure thing mate, it wasn't grainy even in the slightest, it was more like a slimy gel which makes me think that, perhaps, somebody at some point has accidentally put some DOT5 fluid in it, then realised and tried to flush it through, which of course, as you can see, doesn't work... and is also the reason why I'm gonna have to throw the brake hose out and buy a new one... washed out perfectly well though, dried and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and good as new now!
Great camera work with clear instructions and detailed explanations ,, this is why you go from strength to strength ! are you watching discovery chanel ?? star in the making
Hello Mike, my word, thank you so much my friend, for what it's worth, we did have an approach about 8yrs ago from the Discovery people, and asked to submit some videos for their Turbo Hub, and out of 20 videos we sent, they used maybe 7 of them as features, it was a great honour to be involved although there was no pay back from it, just the honour of being involved with Discovery... of course it did increase our circulation a great deal... it would appear that Discovery have closed the Turbo Hub now, the main programme featured on it was Wheeler Dealers, and although they have a whole new platform now, we have the great honour of being a 'featured Channel' on their You Tube Channel platform and they are just about to bring the show back to England after many years filming in America, so you never know, perhaps we'll get a call one day... what a dream come true that would be!
@@Moonfleet41 Can i have yours and pennys autographs ? rest of the world i knew them before they were famous ( revisit this in 5 years ) like i say before not kissing arse but you do have a way that makes it easy to understand , and that my friend is why you have not only grown but have let use mere mortals learn
@@MikeButler05 Once again mate, you're too kind, it's just a hobby that got a bit out of hand and we were shocked at how many people reach out for help and it's a pleasure to help, after all, the bike community used to be like that in person, but not so much these days. Take care, keep safe and enjoy your weekend!
Absolute gold Del - look s the goods mate.
Thanks buddy, very therapeutic to get that filth cleaned out... and all spick and span now!
Those blooming Hell Ho's !
Oh , sorry you mean Hel Hose 👍🏻☮❤
You've been at Maud's gin again haven't you brother?! Peas and loaf and things, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41
ahhhhh! you got me again !! caught in the act ! 😲
Great video! Can you tell me why you used white lithium grease? Could you also use high temperature bearing grease? A reply would be greatly appreciated
Please educate me: I always forget which way the anti-rattle spring clip fits. It’s not symmetrical so there must be a right way? And why don’t you put copper grease on a) the nipple thread & b) back of pads?
Always observe spring clips before you dis-assemble, it even helps to snap a photo with your phonr if you're likely to forget and I will fully lube all brake parts on the final plumb up and assembly... these are just dry built for now and the whole lot will stay indoors till it's finished!
Back to the jobs I like!! Haha. All the best buddy.
Most welcome Sir, we have 6 of these to do in all, but just gonna do a couple more in the next videos and then step sideways as the wheels will be back in a week or so, we can do the other 3 later on!
Brilliant job, again attention to detail. I have to do my veradero front calipers so this was superb. Excellent only one thing bring back some music.... Please
Thanks Andy, am sure you've seen that some viewers prefer no music, so we try and mix it, some with and some without, thank you for the nudge! 👍
Quick question Del - in this video and the one for the Bonneville upgrade, you used red grease on the pistons. In your videos on the front caliper rebuild (4 pot that time I think), you advised against using anything other than brake fluid on the seals/pistons when reinstalling. Any reason for the difference there?
Never get fed up watching Del working❤️
At 13/;28 the rubber seal on the right of shot does not seem to have engaged on the caliper body?
It does look like that Tom, but look a little closer, its a ring of white lithium grease you're seeing.. the boot is fully engaged mate.
just a thought, that caliper reminds me of the XJ900s diversion / divi 900 caliper.
the yamaha blue spot/ blue star calipers bolt straight on to the divi 900, and make a huge difference to stopping the bike.
I'm wondering IF you could bolt one of those straight on, cos they bolt straight onto the divi 900....
anyway.. blue spots can be picked up for not much
lol
my words are not working today.. lmao
Pulled all my susupension linkages apart to put new bearings in, only to find the bearing bush at the top of the shocker to be fubar.. fowlers want £30 is for it.. but no idea when it can come.
found one on fleabay.... might be here next friday!
I did all the bearings back in 2014, did them properly, with full decent grease inside the needle rollers, made some thin rubber seals, and th wear has been really minimal.
Yes these calipers are very common, I can think of half a dozen bikes that have them, and their great flexibility is on the slide mounting, the caliper can mount to a disc with anything between a 10-12mm off set, whereas a fixed caliper like a Blue Spot (which usually lives on a semi floating disc), doesn't move side to side, it has a fixed off set, which may have just happened to fit the XJ and it could well fit the Triumph, but there's no guarantee the off set is the same... so it'd have to line up perfectly with the off set on the disc... but anything is an improvement over these calipers, and as I didn't want to change them, I wanted to make them as efficient as possible for what they are.
Nice job. I notice you didn't put a smidgen of copper grease on the new brake pad pin, which is something I always do. I know it won't be an oversight on your part ;-), so what's your thinking there Del?
Did you skip parts of the video maybe Chris.?. here you go.. applied liberally..! @ 13:50
I meant down the length of the pin where it passes through the holes in the brake pads
I see, that would be a mis-use of anti-seize my friend, that product's never to be applied between two rubbing faces, it will act as an abrasive and score the metal over time, I find that provided it's a stainless steel pin, they re best left dry as any grease will form a thick paste when it mixes with brake dust and road grime and actually impede movement as that section of the pin is exposed, it's easily cleaned off with a wheel brush and some soap to keep it free moving. If you do want to grease any form of sliding pin, it's important they have a covering dust boot to keep out the grit and like the slide pins on this caliper, I use a white lithium grease, it's heat resistant and silky smooth, will not cause abrasion like anti-seize. Anti-seize is more suited to stop fixed mating surfaces from corroding together by providing a non-ferrous barrier hence I used it on the thread.
Thanks for that info Del. There’s another job for me to do this winter 🙄
(P) Ewe that was minging! Top job, have a great weekend 😀
It was indeed brother, it even smelt minging! Reckon it must have been a decade old possibly even a bit of DOT5 in there too!
Thanks Del for a great video! I rebuilt my caliper earlier this year (Triumph, the same caliper as yours probably). Fitted new pistons and seals, but yet there is a small leakage (which I hadn't observed before the rebuild). Any clue as to what could have happened? Bad aftermarket seals? I polished the calipers with autosol on the inside but was careful to avoid using steel brush / sandpaper.
If you have a little more background on that Lucas, where exactly is the leak coming from? Is it leaking out the piston seals literally, or coming from elsewhere?
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the reply. The leakage is definitely from the calipers, that is, the brake fluid must somehow slip through the seals, although in a small quantity.
@@lucasbrynte7083 OK, brake fluid is like any other leaking fluid, it's not always apparent where it's coming from as the fluid tends to flow all over the unit and end up in other areas.. is it maybe possible they the fluid is weeping from the bleed valve seat, is it tight enough?, maybe corroded, Or maybe could it be weeping from the banjo bolt seal, there should be two brand new copper washers either side of the banjo union to make a perfect seal.! It;s far more likely that the fluid is weeping from one of those places rather then actually pushing past a seal.!! maybe wash the caliper totally clean and dry it.. then tape the lever in to pressurise the fluid and look really close at those places with a bright light on it and see if you can see it coming out..! Hope that helps mate. Good luck with it.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 It is far from all over the place - and I can just remember seeing a few drops around the piston area. Anyhow, thanks a lot for taking the time to answer - I will investigate as you advised
Both banjo bolt washers and bleeding valve were replaced by the way
Good job,question does not the litium grease damage the rubber seals of pins ?thanks
No mate, lithium grease is perfect for slide pins and much the same as silicone grease, it softens and actually conditions rubber to prevent perishing, it's also heat resistant and water resistant... !
Nice one, really needed a complete refurb Del.. Safely first👌😉
Yeah, nasty mess in there aye..!
Sure was Del, enjoyed video, proper job on caliper 👍
Another Brilliant Video !
Nice and detailed video. Love your content. Found you recently and I am watching some of the playlists.
One think I would want to know your opinion about. I sometimes see you touching bearings and in this case the brake piston with your hands. Are you not worried about the acids in your hand corroding the parts?
(In the aviation industry it is a No-Go.)
Looking great love them new pads shiny
Friday the 13th bike had mot and had a advisory about the front forks. He said that they wasn't straight they were slightly out from the handlebars and need to be straight. He said that undo the yoke and tap the wheel against a wall which would straitened them true again. The forks are straight and not bent. Please help me with this problem. Thanks Del. By the way it's a ybr 125. Lol
Thats a very compact parts washer, where can I get one like it? Love how you always order things neatly and have such a clean and neat work area
Here you go, a link to the parts cleaning tank.! www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/parts-cleaning-tank-bench-portable-118863?search=SM21&description=true
Very satisfying to see the whole process that ended up in an excellent work. I would like to know what is that red machine that you're using for the cleaning of the caliper and were I could buy one. Very helpful video and excellent job done!
I have the same question, and found this: www.wiltec.de/parts-washer-cleaner-cleaning-tank-workshop-garage-13-25-litres.html
Or try to google "garage parts washer"
Here you go buddy, this is the one I use, wonderfully reliable and really handy as you can see... www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637200307/parts-cleaning-tank-benchportable
Thank you so much @Delboy's Garage @MrMarosh123
hi del i remember doing the breaks a few years back on an old z750 absolute nightmare m8 pistons were rusted in seal werent even there m8 pig of a job i got there in the end though
Nice one buddy, we always remember the bad ones aye?! Have a safe weekend there, Del
Thanks for the videos
Nice work Del
Thanks 👍
Great video Del I will be doing that job shortly on my zx7r. I will be ordering the rebuild kit from wemoto the only problem is a previous owner has changed the tokico six pot calipers for tokico four pot ones how do I know what parts to order any ideas buddy ?
Hi mate, that's a tricky one, I know people have a bit of a downer on 6 pot tokies, but usually the upgrade is Nissin 4 pots from a Bandit, which I had on my ZX7R, but if they're tokie 4 pots you'll have to find out what they cam from... or at least what other bikes they fit on to so you can order the right kit... if absolutely all else fails, and you have no idea, then you can send a piston and a pair of seals to Wemoto and they'll match them for you...(and just a quick PS, if you're gonna send one, make sure they're the same size, as tokie calipers often have variable size pistons, so you may have to send the lot!)... but if you know what bike they came from, just order them, and the same goes for the pads.
@@Moonfleet41 cheers for the reply unfortunately I have no idea what bike they came off so I will do as you suggest and strip the caliper and send off the piston and seals. That's my Sunday sorted 😁
Great video..Cheers have a nice weekend :)
And you too buddy, thanks for your support!
What kind of cleaning fluid do you use.It looks better then what I'm use to.
This is the one I use at the moment mate... www.machinemart.co.uk/p/5-litre-solvent-parts-washer-fluid/
@@Moonfleet41 thanks
another great video del any plans to do winter storage for those of us with bike in sheds do remember you did something like that for pennys sportster camera work great as always
Thanks Arthur, I do remember that one many years ago, and I reckon that would be a pretty good video, thanks for the nudge, I'll have a plan through and see if we can fit it in!
@@Moonfleet41 cheers del its just that theres more products on market now lot of chrome on the harley taking off what i can to bring inside
You could upgrade to CBF 1000 3-piston caliper, it's a plug and play mod
Thanks mate, although wonder how many of them are left second hand, it's great to know what fits what!
@@Moonfleet41 i wanted to send you a picture of my, but don't know how
excellent work.
Some of the calipers that I have rebuilt I have used a pick set or a dremal wire wheel
Me too buddy, specially on the really corroded ones!
Another great job done excellent Delboy
I upgraded my rotors(EBC) on my car 20,000 miles ago with the oem pads.
I found that they last longer that way. (BMW e46 325 sport auto), they ARE better braking too.
I had looked at ebc pads for my Bikes(3) but for me, I think I'll go with ebc upgrade rotors and stock pads.
N.B shoe-string budget. lol
Hey, i totally get that Tim, work with what you have... thankfully car rotors are cheap as chips compared to bike discs, so it's perfectly possible... no so much with a bike if you on a shoe-string budget..!
Nice job. And only £48 for such a comprehensiv brake kit.a person would b mad not to use it.
So when you washed the calliper out,,,was it with kerosene mate??
Gr8 vid👍
No mate, it was with an approved degreaser that works with the part washer and the, of course, copious squirtage with much brake cleaner to eliminate any residue of the degreaser!
used the same pistons on SV and can fell the difference when braking they seam to release quicker or bunce back as some wood say
Sure thing mate, they cost me a fortune on the Hayabusa to use TRK pistons, as there are 16 of them in all, and with the pads and all the seals, I was nearly up to £900, but those Tokico brakes are absolutely astonishing now... one finger braking from any speed, just hauls it to a stop... !
New fan in Argentina
Welcome aboard!
For anyone reading this who's just watched this video & thinking ehh what a mess do yourself a favour & ask yourself when your brake fluid was last changed ( Any vehicle doesn't have to be a bike ) brake fluids hygroscopic it absorbs moisture out the atmosphere & that's what happens if you don't change it, should be changed every 2 yrs admittedly that doesn't look like its been changed in at least the last decade, but get yours changed might just save your life
Correct words all the way my friend, thank you for that valuable input, I've seen this kind of slimy brown sludge a few times and I have a feeling with this bike that that could have possibly been the accidental application of some DOT5 fluid, which doesn't mix and just causes this sticky sludge, having seen the inside of the master cylinder by now, it's much the same, it's not sandy, it isn't rust and it's nothing to do with the brake hose as it's at the top end as well as the bottom... 4 & 5 don't mix as you know, and I reckon someone's accidentally picked up the wrong bottle many years ago... tried to flush it through once they realised, but as this shows, you never get it all out just by flushing... once again, thank you for your input my friend, wise words indeed.
Nicely done!! Learned couple things here!!.... is that silicone grease you’re using? On the pinion.... I see it’s very simple rebuilt. Thanks!!
Hi buddy, thanks for your kind words, I thought I'd get asked that one, which is why I held the can up tot he camera (perhaps you missed it), it's good old fashioned white lithium grease, perfect lubricant for slide pins.
@@Moonfleet41 .. what I saw was pink or red...( not see that color here) I used white grease from spray can here USA. I often questioned myself if safe put together using silicone grease which is clear color. Love the upgrade of stainless steel... Kwel!!
Great video. Usual attention to detail and super instructive. Was just wondering about the use of the rubber grease. I have a vague recollection of a previous calliper build saying don't use grease as its a contaminant. Is there a bit of a rethink on this? Cheers Sam
Hi Sam, There are more kinds of 'grease' than we can count, for all manner of different jobs, All mechanical parts usually benefit from some form of lubrication when being assembled, and a regular LM grease is the normal go to choice for general assembly, but it would indeed be a corrosive contaminant to rubber parts generally, (there are always exceptions naturally), The Red Rubber Grease however is made for the job, a specialist lubricant similar to silicone grease that contains no oil distillates, it is generally considered to not only lubricate rubber parts, but also soften and condition rubber for longevity, and is included in the brake seal kit for just that purpose. Hope that clears it up mate.
@@Moonfleet41 All good. I'm guessing they wouldn't put it in the kit if it was likely to cause issues. I've got a lesser quality kit to go in my bike so I might see if I can get something similar to help the process.
On another topic - I got a parts washer the other week but cannot seem to get a straight answer anywhere on what to put in it (some fluids destroy the parts / some the washer itself / some are just dangerous) any chance of a review/vid on this? Cheers Sam
@@samp5690 Working on your agreement that if something is in the kit, then it's supposed to be there and applicable for the job, here's the parts washer solvent I use... it's not emulsify-able so you can't dilute it with water, but keeps working even when it's dirty and contaminated so lasts ages... it's supplied specifically for the job so you can rest assured mate it won't be dangerous.
@@Moonfleet41 you might have to help me with this one. Is there a missing link or a clue I'm missing :-) Cheers Sam
@@samp5690 Sorry mate, here you go: www.machinemart.co.uk/p/5-litre-solvent-parts-washer-fluid/
haha but you knew that, I do now!
See it works Kevin lol
Hey Del, what are your thoughts about putting some brake fluid into the caliper prior to refitting the pistons? Thanks :-)
Great practice mate, works a treat, certainly better than bone dry, but if like me, they're gonna sit with no fluid in (other than that little smear you had on assembly), for potentially many months, then I prefer to use the red rubber grease that comes in the kit... the brake fluid washes it straight out the minute you bleed them up, and it lasts a lot longer in a dry caliper than a dab of clean fluid... clean fluid is great if you're bleeding them up straight away.