How I bolt trimmers and other timber beams
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- I am Bolting this three ply trimmer that supports some trimmed joists, I use a decent 12mm auger drill and an angle drill to make the job easy
My Amazon store for all kinds of goodies
www.amazon.co....
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 82 วันนี้!! คู่เอก | ยอดไอคิว vs อับดัลลาห์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hSsyTl_9bqs/mqdefault.jpg)
That's a sweet ratcheting spanner, the way it passes through. never seen one of them before but its now on the tool shopping list. Thanks
I don't know why and I know it doesn't really make any difference but i always level off my square plate washers. Top job as ever Robin 👍👍👍
It makes a difference to you. That's all that matters..... Conscientious 👍
Like myself, chronic O.C.D, 👍😁🔨🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut it's a time consuming condition, but worth it!!!!!
You think you're better than us?
Same
That Milwaukee looks fresh out the box 👍🏼
Like the drill , haven't seen that type of rachet before 👍☘️🇮🇪🤟👋 good one
Steel erectors and scaffolders use them all the time.
It's called a podging spanner I believe.
For that size drill bit I use speed 2 on my drill and it goes through treble trusses like butter.
Hi how come you use coach bolts and not bolts with washers both sides we are not allowed to use coach bolts anymore when bolting joists together as there is no even pressure both sides great vid
Hi Robin, amusing to see the beard come and go. Looks as if the build is taking much longer than the space between the videos! Mike
Lovely stuff! I’ve got the same drill it’s fantastic.
I’ve noticed you have a fair few m18 fuel tools now. It’s definitely worth getting some high output batteries though. I have the 3ah, the 8 and the 12. They genuinely give a considerable amount more power and huge amount of runtime that the standard m18 batteries. When I use the 3ah it way out lasts the standard 5ah for example and it’s the perfect size for say the impact or router trimmer!
If you could put a video out every Saturday night! that would be great!! so I don't have to watch
that strictly come dancing, nice work there Boss !!!!
Why would you be watching that shite??
Enjoyed as always! Thanks for sharing.
Always best practice to fit them afterwards, you could use your measuring stick to play out the holes but inevitably you'd take longer to measure up
Lots of swarf in the flutes though, but it fell out real easily, did you wax the bit up first or is it designed like that?
Thanks for the excellent videos 👍
Great video. Such details are 👍
Apologies if you've already covered this Robin, but can you give a rough ballpark for the cost of the scaffold 'tent'. I appreciate that it might vary wildly from place to place, but just an idea of how much that convenience has added to the project? I imagine that it's priceless from a work perspective, so i imagine it's worth every penny, but I don't have a feel for the likely costing?
I'd be shocked if he gave you an estimate because it divulged profits 🔨
@@tomsmith9048 I'm just talking about a 'finger in the air' price to get a sense of what that would cost to do as it looks so useful for this type of project rather than taking a chance on the weather.
@@videogalore I'd like to say 10 to 15 grand but he's down south so probably more 🔨
@@tomsmith9048 Thanks Tom, just helps to place it in roughly. In the scheme of a project like this it's pocket change, so it seems well worth the cost.
The cost for a scaffold like this is 10k plus
Hearing protection - check!
Eye protection - check!
Head protection - ehhhh.....no hard hat? Bump cap even? Could be an opportunity for more sponsorship, maybe?
Another nice video, Robin, thanks! The build is looking great.
No one else there to drop something on his head. Hard hat totally unesessary.
@@kierandoherty1600 so you can only injure your head if someone drops something? Seriously!?
@@protectiongeek I know, I put my hard hat on when I leave my house
Hi,what pouch’s are on your diamondback toolbelt looks a great job.loving the big build. Thanks
Not very often you see a structure that only needs varnish. 😂😂
Steels I order always have the holes in the wrong place. I always mag drill after. 👍
Lovely jubbly
Are the joist hangers not supposed to have a nail in every hole where the header is full? Just curious, thanks
Hi Ethan, the amount of nails in a hanger depends on a couple of factors, the fist rule is just try to nail every hole, but some hangers that wrap over the connecting timber need fewer nails, and this is often printed on the hangers, its the fold and the nails in the top that give a great deal of strength
Was just wondering why you haven't nailed all of the holes in the hangers? I was always under the impression that every hole in a hanger needed a nail?
Robin, how come you don't install the bolts in the cente-line of the beams? To which extend do small holes weaken beams, and to which extent should you consider where you drive in bolts in a beam?
Timber 'cups' so if you fix only in the centres the contact area will be much lower. Staggering the bolts helps to mitigate this. The bolts create huge clamping force which creates huge friction which is what resists any unwanted movement.
@@TurinTuramber What about the hole in the beam. Does it weaken the beam to have a hole in the area that experiences the greatest tension, or is that not an issue?
@@olgajoachimosmundsen4647 Technically is does weaken the beam a bit but a 12mm hole two inches from the edge of a 200mm+ timber on 800 centres isn't a problem. Everything in structural engineering is calculated very precisely... then doubled for luck. 😄
@@TurinTuramber The neutral axis of a beam is in the centre, this is where drilling is supposed to take place. That's according to the manuals but I don't see anything wrong with what was done in the video. I probably would have used standard bolts with a washer on both sides and a lock nut on top, 🔨 🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut Yeah, everyone will do it slightly different. Those coach bolts Robin used don't really take a washer at the head end so what he done was correct. Either way, that beam isn't moving anytime soon.
Sorry to sound naive but just what is the purpose of these bolts given the amount of timbers attached to the triple beam?
So the three beams act together in bending and shear
The bolts push the individual timbers together. Then the friction between will be huge and they will 'act as one'.
Nice clean exit with augur bit. Have to store that info away. I noticed your square washers had the straight edges at ~45 degrees to the grain. Assume that was not by accident. Is that the recommended practice (I can see why it might be) ?
I guess it would clamp more fibers set on the 45.
@@TurinTuramber Entirely accidental I bet.
The head of the bolt itself was tiny compared to the square washer, the orientation of the washer wouldn't have mattered.
If it mattered that much, I'm sure the small head size on the bold would have been more of a concern, and you could see how much Robin was cranking on it, sinking the head into the side of the joist.
@@William1st I agree, square washers both sides would be the answer but it's an extra cost I guess.
The washers don't really matter, it's the stress of the sheer load on the beam, hence the staggered positioning and the hammered in bolts
I'm sure Robin will be along to explain the technical stuff but it's to stop the individual beams from moving relative to their sister beams
@@TurinTuramber Haha! Yeah, the guy driving the Ferrari F40 couldn't afford a dozen square washers at 20p each.
Good guess, try again.
What hammer do you use Robin? Great series mate keep it up ❤️
Est wing 32oz
How come you don't use structural screws? Far less work, no?
You mean like a Timberlok? IMO they are tough screws but can't match the pulling force of an M12 with square washers.
@@TurinTuramber Well maybe, but they comply with building regs so must pull enough.
@@dusty4784 Are S screws actually regs or is it just some BC allow them? I don't know, I am asking as I have never seen that in writing.
@@TurinTuramber Yea, dunno, I've used them and never had a problem
Whats the rachet your using there?
Called podgers
So how do you get the dog tooth connectors in .. ?
When you hear someone say "I always do it like this",then get out a brand spanking new cordless tool.
What happened to all those Hitachi tools you told everyone were so good?
Changed them? You not upgrade your tools regularly 🤷♂️
@@MrSacko1986 😳how regular 🤔🔨
Hi mate, how you finding the new belt?
Nice video as always. Most of the time Im told to use dog teeth connectors, so this wouldn't be a go for me most of the time.
But you would have to ply the beams up at the beginning?
@@TurinTuramber "ply the beams"?.
@@benrichards1 Ply them up, join them together. Those dog tooth washers can't be fitted at the end, unless we talking about different things.
EDIT: Just seen you put this in the OP. My bad.
@@TurinTuramber yes dog teeth connectors have to be used as you join the timbers up. Alot of structural engineers specify them. Obviously in this case they can't have.
@@benrichards1 I haven't used them for years. I guess they have to take your word for it, that you used them. As Robin said if you are unlucky the joists and hangers could clash with the bolt locations so there is an advantage to bolts through at the end. I wonder how much difference they would actually make, everything else being equal.
I really don't understand why carpenters use coach bolts to join timber beams together. As you can see in this video, the coach bolt ends up puncturing the wood and sinking into it instead of compressing all the timbers together. I've seen countless youtube videos of people using coach bolts and it sinking into the timber. Why not just use an m10-12 bolt with square washers on each side and nuts? That actually does the job of making the timbers act as one without puncturing any of them.
I've used Joyner bolts before which have a square washer built in which has sharp teeth. It bites into the wood but doesn't sink in. It's another option which I personally prefer! 👍
Once the timber dries the bolts will be as loose as Alice’s draws.
The Red Ferrari of carpenters/chippies
First