All the old Oak barns I have pulled apart and rebuilt had the pegs all the way through. I used to do the same out of tradition. I was also always taught to draw dowel. Drill the hole right through the mortice then put the tenon in. Put the drill back in and kiss the tenon then pull back out and offset a whisker. Taper the end of your peg and bang through tightening the joint. There was some wonderful joinery on those old barns. Pulling them apart taught me a lot. 1/2 lap dove tailed collars. Huge cross beams dove tailed into the equally huge top plate. Your favourite pegged scarf joints. Beautifully cut purlins and birds mouth struts. All cut by hand with no power tools. Skilled workers. Your half a ton of Oak is going to be an equally nice feature.
Yep. You can assemble the building as a kit of parts. In the future, it is relatively simple to knock the tapered faceted peg back out and reverse the process. With a blind hole, the process is very difficult. The joints of oak framing are a big part of what gives it its beauty and they should be in ya face.
@@catabaticanabatic3800 I agree I have pulled many apart over the years that had been together for hundreds of years. Used every part we could and made replacements where damaged or missing. Some of the old craftsmen even carved Roman numerals on the parts making reassembly even easier.
I was working on a timber frame..in same village a guy was doing same to live in..went for a look..he'd found silding shuttered windows behind boarded walls which I'd only seen in books..a fantastic wood machine shop on site..but I did think making perfect octagonal pegs a bit ott ..
I must admit l have seen first-hand Victorian quality joinery when they demolish an old part of the hospital at which l worked. The roof timber joints were as good as the day they were installed, nowadays we rarely have the opportunity to see quality building work being carried out. Sadly most new building work is now down to cost and profit margins. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
You guys really did a stellar job on the intro Logo .... I love it. Always inspiring and immensely informative. Gorgeous work. Hope your weekend is perfect Robin. Cheers.
Hi, when fitting the post on the staddle stones, do u need to wrap the rod to protect the oak? Also do you need to leave a small air gap between the oak and the stone? Or should any adhesive be used? Many thanks
It's all these little tips that help ,we all have our own way of doing jobs ,so it's great to see it done in a different way , the little tips nice 👍👏😁☘️🇮🇪👋🤟
If you were making an oak frame building all all the lengths were approx 3m (not ideal I know but it’s what we’ve got) would you sit the wall plates ontop of each upright and join them there or mortise and tenon them into the side of each upright? I feel that would look nicer as a seat cut always seems difficult to make perfect but would probably be much quicker and maybe stronger for the roof to sit on rather than a mortise and tenon? Thanks for the video. Cheers
Hi Rob, quick question (not related to this video). Im currently constructing a warm flat roof with a central roof lantern. Would you continue the insulation up the outside of the roof lantern upstand? I know theres only around 100mm of upstand above the roof finish and probably nothing to worry about regards condensation. As far i can see, everybody just insulates inbetween the timbers of the upstand frame. I would love to know how you would tackle this detail. Thanks, Joe.
Hi Joe, I Tend to frame out the up stands in 50 x 50 mm and cut 50mm PIR tight between, 18mm OSB on the outside and insulated plasterboard on the inside giving about 100mm overall thickness, the insulated plasterboard deals with any cold bridging and the solid 50mm timber and PIR with the 18mm Skin of OSB gives a good U value too, hope that helps
Its really nice to see how you put all the parts together with all the nice details. I'm curious on how you fixed the timber posts to the stone? Doesn't look like the rods that are sticking out are that long to mechanically fix them. Cheers
Hi Robin, I wondered how you address the issue with the upright posts where they meet the concrete blocks, is it wise to leave a gap between the two to prevent the posts from rot?
Hi Robin. Did you use draw peg dowling so the hole in the brace is just a mil or so offset towards the tenon shoulder, so when you knock the peg through, it draw the tenon joint in tighter than a straight through hole? Great work as always, and I love the content.
@@normanboyes4983 True but why install a peg that requires that. Buildings are altered, repaired, etc all the time so why create a situation that requires more effort?
@@DWR82 OK..here come the boyfriends with their claws out.... My point was that there is, and has been, a lot of better stuff that Robin does and could have been shown. Drilling holes for 20 minutes isn't informative, interesting or complicated so there isn't much to maintain interest or inform. Bottom line, this video, compared to his others, was pretty boring.
@@berbababy if you are that bored maybe exercise one of your digits and use the fast forward button - it’s a lot of physical activity but you have options.
Not a term used around here (California, USA), but interesting enough to look up: “In Middle English staddle or stadle is stathel, from Old English stathol, a foundation, support or trunk of a tree.” Thanks for pointing it out - I read right over it in the title.
All the old Oak barns I have pulled apart and rebuilt had the pegs all the way through. I used to do the same out of tradition. I was also always taught to draw dowel. Drill the hole right through the mortice then put the tenon in. Put the drill back in and kiss the tenon then pull back out and offset a whisker. Taper the end of your peg and bang through tightening the joint. There was some wonderful joinery on those old barns. Pulling them apart taught me a lot. 1/2 lap dove tailed collars. Huge cross beams dove tailed into the equally huge top plate. Your favourite pegged scarf joints. Beautifully cut purlins and birds mouth struts. All cut by hand with no power tools. Skilled workers. Your half a ton of Oak is going to be an equally nice feature.
Yep. You can assemble the building as a kit of parts. In the future, it is relatively simple to knock the tapered faceted peg back out and reverse the process. With a blind hole, the process is very difficult. The joints of oak framing are a big part of what gives it its beauty and they should be in ya face.
@@catabaticanabatic3800 I agree I have pulled many apart over the years that had been together for hundreds of years. Used every part we could and made replacements where damaged or missing. Some of the old craftsmen even carved Roman numerals on the parts making reassembly even easier.
I was working on a timber frame..in same village a guy was doing same to live in..went for a look..he'd found silding shuttered windows behind boarded walls which I'd only seen in books..a fantastic wood machine shop on site..but I did think making perfect octagonal pegs a bit ott ..
Excellent attention to detail!
I must admit l have seen first-hand Victorian quality joinery
when they demolish an old part of the hospital at which l worked.
The roof timber joints were as good as the day they were installed, nowadays we rarely have the opportunity to see quality building work being carried out. Sadly most new building work is now down to cost and profit margins. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
You guys really did a stellar job on the intro Logo .... I love it. Always inspiring and immensely informative. Gorgeous work. Hope your weekend is perfect Robin. Cheers.
nice to see someone taking pride in their work and sharing good content keep up the good work Robin!
Carpentry the first of the Arts.
brilliant video
Thanks bro!!! nice to see you here in my comments, see you soon!!
Hi, when fitting the post on the staddle stones, do u need to wrap the rod to protect the oak? Also do you need to leave a small air gap between the oak and the stone? Or should any adhesive be used? Many thanks
I can’t wait to catch up on the big build just doing a full house renovation and not getting any time to watch the series keep it up robin
Robbin is top class
Gorgeous!
Thank you Carole!!
Your videos are sophisticated & fun to experience. Especially since the quality of the work & explanations are so exceptional.
Said so before, you are a talented/skilled man. Pleasure to watch and learn.
It's all these little tips that help ,we all have our own way of doing jobs ,so it's great to see it done in a different way , the little tips nice 👍👏😁☘️🇮🇪👋🤟
Very nice
Top chippie there
Wonderful work.Cheers!
If you were making an oak frame building all all the lengths were approx 3m (not ideal I know but it’s what we’ve got) would you sit the wall plates ontop of each upright and join them there or mortise and tenon them into the side of each upright? I feel that would look nicer as a seat cut always seems difficult to make perfect but would probably be much quicker and maybe stronger for the roof to sit on rather than a mortise and tenon? Thanks for the video. Cheers
Very nice work Robin with heaps of job satisfaction.😀👍
Oi nicee job there old man. Great work👏👏👊😁
Hi guys, when you drilled through the tenon for pegs did you ofset the hole slightly to pull the two components together (draw bore)?
I would also be really interested in your answer :-)
Didn’t look like there were any holes in those tenons first. So was it disassembled again I wonder?
I wondered the same👍
Add another curious watcher …
@@robertbamford8266 what???
Amazing craftsmanship, looking forward to seeing the next video in the build
Lovely work gentlemen! Looking great 👍🏻
Probably my eyesight Robin but, is there a reason the peg holes for the brace mortices are slightly inboard of C/L? More rigidity?
Hi Rob, quick question (not related to this video). Im currently constructing a warm flat roof with a central roof lantern. Would you continue the insulation up the outside of the roof lantern upstand? I know theres only around 100mm of upstand above the roof finish and probably nothing to worry about regards condensation. As far i can see, everybody just insulates inbetween the timbers of the upstand frame.
I would love to know how you would tackle this detail.
Thanks, Joe.
Hi Joe, I Tend to frame out the up stands in 50 x 50 mm and cut 50mm PIR tight between, 18mm OSB on the outside and insulated plasterboard on the inside giving about 100mm overall thickness, the insulated plasterboard deals with any cold bridging and the solid 50mm timber and PIR with the 18mm Skin of OSB gives a good U value too, hope that helps
@@ukconstruction that's a big help, and thats what I'll be doing.
Thanks 👍
Its really nice to see how you put all the parts together with all the nice details. I'm curious on how you fixed the timber posts to the stone? Doesn't look like the rods that are sticking out are that long to mechanically fix them. Cheers
Hello Robin,
Brilliant
I love your accuracy and precision.
Best tips.
Best wishes from Leicester ENGLAND
Fantastic work Robin !!!
Hi Robin, I wondered how you address the issue with the upright posts where they meet the concrete blocks, is it wise to leave a gap between the two to prevent the posts from rot?
Lovely job 👍🏻
What kind of offset do you put your pegs at? i.e. how far out of line are the holes on the tenon to pull the joint tight?
2 to 3mm
Wondered whether you offset the peg holes in the Tennons, to tighten up the joint?
You don't normally but a chestnut peg will tighten when the green oak drys out and shrinks onto it 🔨
Hi Robin. Did you use draw peg dowling so the hole in the brace is just a mil or so offset towards the tenon shoulder, so when you knock the peg through, it draw the tenon joint in tighter than a straight through hole?
Great work as always, and I love the content.
Robin could you show how you made the double rebate at the end of the top rail.?
Nooice!
So how do you dissemble those joints if need be if the peg does not go thru the whole way?
Once its assembled and pegged then its there for good!!
Drill it out?
@@normanboyes4983 True but why install a peg that requires that. Buildings are altered, repaired, etc all the time so why create a situation that requires more effort?
@@ukconstruction Nothing is permanent in wood framed structures.
said it before robin.... genius..
12:20 tssk, tssk, you didn't draw-bore the holes? Come on Robin!
Awesome 👏
👍
Is this the last we see of the oak frame being assembled and erected, an extra 10 minutes would have made all the difference.
👍🏻
Templet?
Template R-Dogg.
😍🥰👍😉
Come on Robin. 20 minutes watching you drill holes isn't that thrilling! Up the quality my man!
Mate I'm a carpenter not Stephen speilberg!!!
Its a construction channel you clown.
@@DWR82 OK..here come the boyfriends with their claws out.... My point was that there is, and has been, a lot of better stuff that Robin does and could have been shown. Drilling holes for 20 minutes isn't informative, interesting or complicated so there isn't much to maintain interest or inform. Bottom line, this video, compared to his others, was pretty boring.
@@berbababy if you are that bored maybe exercise one of your digits and use the fast forward button - it’s a lot of physical activity but you have options.
Maybe dancing girls, explosions even a parade...
Templates!
The arguments I've had with tradesmen that say it's "SADDLESTONES".....
Not a term used around here (California, USA), but interesting enough to look up: “In Middle English staddle or stadle is stathel, from Old English stathol, a foundation, support or trunk of a tree.” Thanks for pointing it out - I read right over it in the title.
@@robertbamford8266 often have a "mushroom" looking construction to support frame of grain stores about 3' high to try to keep wildlife out!