I saw a youtube video a few years ago where somebody tested different penetrating fluids, and a concoction of 50% MEK and 50% ATF worked the best and penetrated the farthest. I've been using that formula for years in a refillable sprayer, and it's been working great.
Thanks man! I try to only include the important stuff but sometimes it’s hard to know what to keep/delete so this feedback is valuable to me. Appreciate it!
@@sweeneyoffroad I'll cite your alternator welder vid as as example. You concisely presented just the right amount of theory and practice. Other channels would have drug that out for 45 minutes or more.
No way maaan!! No hater here! I think it’s great that you made this video for us! One day many years ago there was a man just like you working on junk cars and trucks that said to himself “ I wish I had something that would help brake these rusty bolts free” and boom one day, WD-40 was made then sold! Maybe you could market your with your name on it💪🏼🔥🔥🔥🤣👍🏻
@@jonasjonaitis2949 Sorry for the delay. just saw your question. The answer is : It depends. If you are buying the components expressly for this peoject, the lghter fluid & mineral spirits may be cheaper than acetone. But if you already have some acetone you use for other projects, acetone & ATF will be cheaper. Personally, even if the acetone & ATF was the same price as WD-40, I would still buy it, because it works much faster with MUCH less fluid used. I literally apply the Acetone/ATF mix with a blunted medical syringe.
@@Gieszkanne Well I've never had a bolt get stuck in mineral oil. While Acetone may be very aggressive on primers and varnish, 99% of the bolts I've ever had to use any penetrating compound, like WD40, on have been far enough away from paint & varnishes that it wasn't an issue, or the rusted bolt/nut could be shielded to prevent over spray of even the resolized mixes. TBH, I don't know the specifics as to why the Acetone & ATF work the way they do, but can state that, in my experience, it works much faster with MUCH less fluid used than any other mix, commercial or home made. I literally apply the Acetone/ATF mix with a blunted medical syringe directly to the threads of the bolts where they mate up with the nut and the majority of the mix is wicked directly into the threaded mating surfaces. Almost no spillage, unless I've been sloppy, and even then, the acttone flashes off so quickly that, by the time you grab a rag, you're just wiping up a couple spots of ATF.
Thank for amazing video I like to know about fluid u used I m from india and here some fluids are not available or sells here can u tell me alternate of Charcoal Lighter Fluid and What is 30 Weight Oil? Is it engine oil, if Yes what type is it...?
I've been building and restoring cars and machinery for almost 30 years and one thing i discovered works better than WD as a penetrant is SAE DOT3 brake fluid just keep it off paint.
SAE DOT 3 is corrosive and hydroscopic... meaning it is the very WORST thing you can use as it actually absorbs water vapor from the surrounding air. SMH
I use Kerosene to loosen rusty nuts/bolts. A one litre bottle of Kerosene/parrafin (a very light oil) was $2.50 and a squirt bottle was $2. I don't claim its as effective as WD40 but works for me, that quantity lasts for ages and the price is right :)
Nice penetrant recipe. WD evaporates and doesn't leave lubrication behind. Yours will, so it may be better or not depending on the application. Perhaps it mimics some of the other products on the market.
I like that you get right to the point and don't fumble your way through the video. But, bow much WD40 does a typical person use? And when you buy a can of WD40 you get the aerosol applicator and don't need to spend the $60 plus tax on a Sure Shot sprayer. Using your numbers, you'd have to use nearly a gallon (99.98 oz.) of product to break even . That's eight cans of 12oz. WD40. Most people would take a lifetime to use that much. Showing how much it spreads doesn't demonstrate its efficacy. BTW, keeping a cutting tool cool and sharp is best accomplished with a more viscous fluid like the very oil you added to your "home brew". If you DO use that much WD40, a 5 gallon can is $128... works out to 19¢/oz. no hassles and its efficacy is KNOWN.
yeah i was going to say i very rearly buy spray cans anymore , i just buy the gallon cans and put into micro spayers. im 35 my kids will probably have to finish it off figureing out that you dont need the amount you think you need.
@@DiffEQ I don't make videos, but did make small batch of this. Can tell you 100% or better it works amazing. Had a grossly rusted #2 02 on a cat converter (2009 Hyundai Sonata). Soaked PB blaster no affect. Tried actual WD40, no effect. Tried the homemade version and worked in five hrs. The homemade version is thinner, and it made it through the threads. Had no galling on cat or threads of O2. Also, rust was coming off old part and almost down to sorta clean metal. The sensor was original to 2009. John A 60107 USA.
WD40 has a lot of wax in it and is what you see settle on the bottom when you purchase it in a clear gallon jug, and also why the instructions tell you to shake before use. It's to bring the wax back into suspension. First and foremost WD40 is a water displacing product.
Aerosol WD-40 is Water Soluble... I made the Tools and Dies for the Spray Cap with the New Bendy Straw. I believe you made Kroil or PB Blaster, please do more research.
" I think NASA invented WD for spacecraft metal " And you'd be very wrong to think that. Did you dream it up? The origins of WD40 are KNOWN, and have been for decades.
It didn't take much time. What? 30 seconds to mix this up? Stop busting this guy. I tried this and love it. Much, much cheaper. I must try the vanilla extract suggestion though because I dislike the smell of WD-40. Some folks like it, however. I bought a new table saw from Grizzly and had to clean off all the cosmoline or whatever is used to protect it in shipping. This worked great. I would have spent a small fortune if I had used genuine WD-40. Thank you, sweeneyoffroad. I just wrote this formula down so I won't forget it.
Wd40 doesn't have oil in it and it evaporates quickly. The concoction you made is the opposite. Idiots don't read the wd40 label, its not a lubricant and its not a rust inhibitor
I can’t tell if you’re trolling… it does have oil, it is a lubricant, and it is a rust preventative. Literally everything you said is wrong, but you’re calling others idiots? 🧐
@@janeblogs324 there’s a bunch of different cans. First can I look at on Google says “Frees sticky mechanisms, loosens rusty parts, drives out moisture, stops squeaks” The US Material Safety Data Sheet states it has
@@sweeneyoffroad my statement stands, go spray an entire can in a container and find the oil. You know petroleum is made from oil right? Wd40 was invented to evaporate water and jetfuel to make the aircraft less prone to catching on fire, if you doused it in oil it would become more flammable
I saw a youtube video a few years ago where somebody tested different penetrating fluids, and a concoction of 50% MEK and 50% ATF worked the best and penetrated the farthest.
I've been using that formula for years in a refillable sprayer, and it's been working great.
The only issue with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) is the cost. That stuff is selling for about $35 a qt.
@@johnclamshellsp1969 I just recently got the real MEK, not the substitute, at a paint store for $35 for a gallon.
Ilike that your videos are short and to the point with no jibber-jabber or phoney baloney.
Thanks man! I try to only include the important stuff but sometimes it’s hard to know what to keep/delete so this feedback is valuable to me. Appreciate it!
@@sweeneyoffroad I'll cite your alternator welder vid as as example. You concisely presented just the right amount of theory and practice. Other channels would have drug that out for 45 minutes or more.
@@sweeneyoffroad Hang in there, brother, you're doing fine.
No way maaan!! No hater here! I think it’s great that you made this video for us!
One day many years ago there was a man just like you working on junk cars and trucks that said to himself “ I wish I had something that would help brake these rusty bolts free” and boom one day, WD-40 was made then sold!
Maybe you could market your with your name on it💪🏼🔥🔥🔥🤣👍🏻
That's nowhere near how WD40 came to be. Not even close.
50/50 Acetone & ATF also works like magic! I will NEVER go back! You should try it! It's MUCH more effective than WD40 for freeing rusted in bolts!
But its more expensive isn't it ?
Aceton is very agressive on polymere and varnish. Also Acetone dont disolve mineral oil as good as mineral spirit. Dosnt sound like a good combo.
@@jonasjonaitis2949 Sorry for the delay. just saw your question. The answer is : It depends. If you are buying the components expressly for this peoject, the lghter fluid & mineral spirits may be cheaper than acetone. But if you already have some acetone you use for other projects, acetone & ATF will be cheaper. Personally, even if the acetone & ATF was the same price as WD-40, I would still buy it, because it works much faster with MUCH less fluid used. I literally apply the Acetone/ATF mix with a blunted medical syringe.
@@Gieszkanne Well I've never had a bolt get stuck in mineral oil. While Acetone may be very aggressive on primers and varnish, 99% of the bolts I've ever had to use any penetrating compound, like WD40, on have been far enough away from paint & varnishes that it wasn't an issue, or the rusted bolt/nut could be shielded to prevent over spray of even the resolized mixes. TBH, I don't know the specifics as to why the Acetone & ATF work the way they do, but can state that, in my experience, it works much faster with MUCH less fluid used than any other mix, commercial or home made. I literally apply the Acetone/ATF mix with a blunted medical syringe directly to the threads of the bolts where they mate up with the nut and the majority of the mix is wicked directly into the threaded mating surfaces. Almost no spillage, unless I've been sloppy, and even then, the acttone flashes off so quickly that, by the time you grab a rag, you're just wiping up a couple spots of ATF.
now to find european equivalents. woiuld 4 isopropyl, 4 odorless mineral spirits, 1 chainsaw oil work just the same?
Nice concoction I'm going to try that for myself and I'm also going to try a mix with ATF to see how that works as well.
I cant put air pressure in that can, can i just oit it in a heavy duty spray bottle? Does it have to be under pressure?
Thank for amazing video
I like to know about fluid u used
I m from india and here some fluids are not available or sells here can u tell me alternate of Charcoal Lighter Fluid and
What is 30 Weight Oil?
Is it engine oil, if Yes what type is it...?
Brilliant, I'm now subscribed. I will give this a try.
Thanks man! Let me know how it goes!
How flammable is it compared to real WD40?
I use a similar mixture under my off roader to keep the rust at bay.
I've been building and restoring cars and machinery for almost 30 years and one thing i discovered works better than WD as a penetrant is SAE DOT3 brake fluid just keep it off paint.
Good tip! Thanks for watching.
SAE DOT 3 is corrosive and hydroscopic... meaning it is the very WORST thing you can use as it actually absorbs water vapor from the surrounding air. SMH
Weight oil or white oil?
@@masbrewok.universe weight
What is that sprayer called and where can I get one ? Great presentation !
I included it in the video description! Thanks for stopping by and the nice words!
Harbor Freight has one that looks just like it.
@@sweeneyoffroad
Waarom geen Nederlandse vertaling ?????
Try switching the motor oil for transmission fluid, transmission fluid is a lot thinner than motor oil
Might be worth some experimentation to find the best recipe!
smart try 1oz of seafoam to stop liter fuid from evaperating
But does it smelll like WD-40???
Similar aroma for sure! Like WD40 with a hint of charcoal lighter fluid lol
@@sweeneyoffroad add a few drops of vanilla extract, it'll smell exactly like the commercial product.
Thanks!
I use Kerosene to loosen rusty nuts/bolts. A one litre bottle of Kerosene/parrafin (a very light oil) was $2.50 and a squirt bottle was $2. I don't claim its as effective as WD40 but works for me, that quantity lasts for ages and the price is right :)
Nice penetrant recipe.
WD evaporates and doesn't leave lubrication behind.
Yours will, so it may be better or not depending on the application.
Perhaps it mimics some of the other products on the market.
WD does leave lubrication behind. At least the european/german version.
I like that you get right to the point and don't fumble your way through the video.
But, bow much WD40 does a typical person use? And when you buy a can of WD40 you get the aerosol applicator and don't need to spend the $60 plus tax on a Sure Shot sprayer. Using your numbers, you'd have to use nearly a gallon (99.98 oz.) of product to break even . That's eight cans of 12oz. WD40. Most people would take a lifetime to use that much. Showing how much it spreads doesn't demonstrate its efficacy.
BTW, keeping a cutting tool cool and sharp is best accomplished with a more viscous fluid like the very oil you added to your "home brew".
If you DO use that much WD40, a 5 gallon can is $128... works out to 19¢/oz. no hassles and its efficacy is KNOWN.
yeah i was going to say i very rearly buy spray cans anymore , i just buy the gallon cans and put into micro spayers. im 35 my kids will probably have to finish it off figureing out that you dont need the amount you think you need.
Great videos as always and thank you for the WD40 homemade version. Dollar for dollar, yours is the cheapest.
Only if it works as well as WD40. He showed nothing about its efficacy.
@@DiffEQ I don't make videos, but did make small batch of this. Can tell you 100% or better it works amazing. Had a grossly rusted #2 02 on a cat converter (2009 Hyundai Sonata). Soaked PB blaster no affect. Tried actual WD40, no effect. Tried the homemade version and worked in five hrs. The homemade version is thinner, and it made it through the threads. Had no galling on cat or threads of O2. Also, rust was coming off old part and almost down to sorta clean metal. The sensor was original to 2009.
John A 60107 USA.
Can u tell me alternate of Charcoal Lighter Fluid, because it is not sold in India and 30 Weight Oil is it 10W-30 engine oil..?
Time to spring clean that shop :)
No doubt!
This concoction doesn't sound like fish oil.
acetone and atf works best
Definitely for penetrant! This is meant to be more all purpose than acetone and atf.
Aceton is very aggressive on polymere and varnish. Also Acetone dont disolve mineral oil as good as mineral spirit. Dosnt sound like a good combo.
WD40 has a lot of wax in it and is what you see settle on the bottom when you purchase it in a clear gallon jug, and also why the instructions tell you to shake before use. It's to bring the wax back into suspension. First and foremost WD40 is a water displacing product.
Aerosol WD-40 is Water Soluble... I made the Tools and Dies for the Spray Cap with the New Bendy Straw. I believe you made Kroil or PB Blaster, please do more research.
What makes you say WD40 is water soluble? It is not. WD means water displacement. The oil in WD40 would not allow it to be water soluble.
Wrong! WD40 and water are NOT miscible.
Instead of lighter fluid, i use grain alcohol, or 'left overs' from the still... my friends all HATE the taste of lighter fluid on the BBQ
Water Displacement 41. I think NASA invented WD for spacecraft metal treatment from FL corrosion problems. Paint is to heavy for spacecraft.
Haha I like that WD41
@@sweeneyoffroad you gotta call your WD39.5, cause it costs half as much
@@Texas_Radical lol so many options 😂
" I think NASA invented WD for spacecraft metal " And you'd be very wrong to think that. Did you dream it up? The origins of WD40 are KNOWN, and have been for decades.
At transmission fluid it’s better
I can buy a gallon of WD 40 for
Go on…
If you DO use that much WD40, a 5 gallon can is $128... works out to 19¢/oz. no hassles and its efficacy is KNOWN.@@sweeneyoffroad
why not use metric lol it would be way easier
Because 🦅 lol
ml is metric ;)
LMAO. I think my time is worth more than the savings.
Fair enough!
It didn't take much time. What? 30 seconds to mix this up?
Stop busting this guy. I tried this and love it. Much, much cheaper. I must try the vanilla extract suggestion though because I dislike the smell of WD-40. Some folks like it, however.
I bought a new table saw from Grizzly and had to clean off all the cosmoline or whatever is used to protect it in shipping. This worked great. I would have spent a small fortune if I had used genuine WD-40.
Thank you, sweeneyoffroad. I just wrote this formula down so I won't forget it.
Wd40 doesn't have oil in it and it evaporates quickly. The concoction you made is the opposite. Idiots don't read the wd40 label, its not a lubricant and its not a rust inhibitor
I can’t tell if you’re trolling… it does have oil, it is a lubricant, and it is a rust preventative. Literally everything you said is wrong, but you’re calling others idiots? 🧐
@@sweeneyoffroad so you think it says that on the can? Have you read the can? Spray some in a container, let it evaporate and try to find this "oil".
@@janeblogs324 there’s a bunch of different cans. First can I look at on Google says “Frees sticky mechanisms, loosens rusty parts, drives out moisture, stops squeaks”
The US Material Safety Data Sheet states it has
@@sweeneyoffroad my statement stands, go spray an entire can in a container and find the oil. You know petroleum is made from oil right?
Wd40 was invented to evaporate water and jetfuel to make the aircraft less prone to catching on fire, if you doused it in oil it would become more flammable
@@janeblogs324 trolls need new hobbies