@@Thinker2-truth it looked just like the one I have, from Shaklee multi-level sales group around 30 years ago. Made from high-density, high-molecular weight, polyethylene blown as shown. Great little squeeze/squirter. The ones he offered via amazon are the thin wall delicately handled version, they do not have a flip to dispense top either.
I have a vintage JenniCan that you can open the top to get your product in easier. It will be nice when they become popular again. Just had a look and while there are dozens of DIY mods and through he valve refill options I was happy to see that there were at least 11 contemporary refillable systems showcased and they seemed to have removable tops that let you fill them easily. Search for "refillable aerosol can" here for examples like FirstTool EWK Gravity R/C TruePower SprayMaker VIM YouCAN Preval SOPPEC Jounjip ShureShot
Be aware. if you overpressure it the schrader valve could explode out of the can like a bullet, especially if you accidentally drop it and the can lands "just wrong". the can itself has been weakened buy introducing a hole into its structure. Hacks like this can be very dangerous. much safer to just buy a pressure pot for your compressor or a pump pack designed for the purpose.
I've turned stuff like that down in my drill press with a half inch chuck and a file. This is a very nice hack. I had been filling cans by pressing a wheel stem onto a spray can and using the schrader valve that way. This is way better. Thanks for posting. (I like the soldering iron hack too!)
the tire valve stems are made of rubber that is not oil resistant. the oil inside will eat tru the stem and will shoot the valve out, hopefully NOT in your eyes.
@@west_park7993 the sealing ring doesn't retain the stem, it's metal and gets screwed into the assembly. If it deteriorated, it would just start leaking . The solder letting go is the risk of the valve going projectile.
By using a punch, you create more surface (mate-ing) area between the Brass Tire Valve & The Can. Great idea. Can should last a life time. Also by positioning the Brass Tire Valve @ the top of the can, (above the liquid level) you keep the solvent from continuous soaking of the Schrader Valve gasket / seal. Yes you can drill, but I would argue the punching of the hole will give a more desired mechanical result. Thanks for sharing. Also, on your punch, after you achieve the correct diameter hole to receive the Brass Tire Valve, you could mark with a pen of some type, or scratch a line on the tip of the punch.
@@johngibson3837 I'm jealous I didn't think about that. But that's one of the few good things about U-TUBE, the sharing of ideas. Great thinking John, you the man.
The dispensing valve in the can has a low service life, intended for single use and so, built cheap. It is not serviceable. The can will not "last a lifetime" unless you mean a few refills. Placing the charge valve in the base pressure dome is a stupid idea, but not for the fluid immersion issue, which the valve will always suffer, be it vapor of fluid in a pressure charged can. Drilling into the can is a messy stupid idea. Pearce the small hole and open up by roll forming using a hardened steel rod (screwdriver shaft) is far superior. The hole only needs to be 1/4" diameter if you buy the cheap copper hose tail Schrader fittings. (HVAC industry) Certainly not agricultural tyre stems.
About the air pressure limit? If I ask my son to put air in it, forget it. I rather use a bicycle pump, air compressor is too dangerous, WD cans are stronger than others.
I didn't read down for all the comments but, if you are a 737 Wrench, you have probably pressure tested a 100 things with soap bubbles. Every time I rehook propane bottles on trailers, swapping tanks on my Oxy/Acy welding tanks, aviator's breathing O2 bottles and so forth. Cheap insurance. Good vid 👍
When I was a parachute rigger we used mil-spec "Leak Tech" which was taxpayer funded liquid dish soap in an extravagant guize... Nothing like a few hits of 100% aviators breathing oxygen when there's too much red in the white of your eyes!
Funny, as a 10 year old kid in the 1960's I used to do this because them sprays were eating too much into my pocket money. Then oiling sprays become cheap as dirt. Now literally over 60 years later I am on the brink of doing this again because of corporate conglomeration having gone out of control.
That’s an awesome idea. People don’t realize many times that chemicals that many people believe to be next to free or cost very little in repIair/manufacturing commercial/industrial settings are actually pretty expensive especially in small use applications scenarios ie. Aerosol sprays vs refillable compressed air sprayers. I worked for a chemical company and most sales were industrial totes of product but some of the same products in spray cans were 3-4 times the price or more and would still not equate the quantity of product difference. For those wondering and are not aware , there are already refillable compressed air bottles sprayers but last I was involved w that industry, they were expensive as in $100 plus USD for a slightly larger sized can than the one this gentleman modified. Great hack…
This is an easy operation requiring simple tools... I have a commercial version of this, with a heavy duty aluminum tank, brass schrader valve, and a trigger sprayer. I keep PB Blaster in mine...
Interchangeable spray patterns - best most ingenious advice this year. Thanks Mech. Empty window-cleaner and other hand-spray bottles can be adapted to spray many other liquids too.
I’m glad you mentioned to save the tips for the different spray patterns. The tip on the starter fluid can is like a garden hose with out a nozzle. Ps. I love the “but you need a lathe” comment 😂😂😂 These guys will say anything to keep a laugh going…! Don’t takem seriously.😂
Awesome, you solved three problems, filling land fills, recycling and saving money. Great video, thanks, I'll have to start doing this. I'm done with over paying for things. Refill cost given the numbers you stated, $2.07 for a full can of WD-40, saved $6.
This is GOT DAMNED GENIUS!! Now, if i can figure out a way to do this with a air wick spray can for my refillable, automatic sprayer it could change the world!! Those things are so expensive and last only a week maybe a little longer.
Hi Niki! Although it seems to be a good idea, it isn't. That method does work with compressed air, which is sort of OKish on large cans, although its really tedious, because you have to bring the can up to pressure very often. On small cans like the air wick stuff, it doesnt work at all. The reason is pretty simple: spray cans normally are filled with the product you want to spray plus a liquid, that has a very low boiling point, so it is - at room temperature and under normal pressure - already a gas. Compressed to 3-5bar however, it is still a liquid. A good example for such a substance is propane gas, which is indeed used in spray cans as propellant. In the propane tank you might know perhaps from a BBQ or camping stove, it is under pressure and liquid and when you release it from the tank it evaporates and becomes gas. The benefit is, that as a liquid, it takes much less space, than as gas (comparable to water, that creates an enormous amount of steam as it boils) Now this effect is used as well to propel the product out of a spray can. When you press the cap, the pressure squeezes out the product as well as some propane gas (that is why the vapes are flammable even if the product isn't). The trick is now, that as you loose pressure, liquid propane will evaporate, until the initial pressure is re-established. In simple words: the propellant gas is practically a built-in compressor, that keeps the pressure high until all the propellant is evaporated and hopefully all of the product came out of the can. With compressed air, you have only a limited airspace over the product under pressure. When that pressure is used up, you need to refill the compressed air. That is why it works soso with larger cans. With an air wick you have perhaps 1-2 ml of air under pressure. That is probably even not enough for one single spray. Sorry for popping your dreamubble and sorry for using the metric measures. Being German I'm not used to convert to imperial. Cheers Andreas
lol this method is a hell of a lot better than the one I just seen where someone turned a plastic tube into a refillable spray paint can lol. Man that was a lot of work.
Dremel is your friend, Cordless, it'll remove any coating with Scotchbright wheel is a second. Also last 40 yrs, I simply remove spray head, and hit the valve tube coming out of can with compressed air, pressing down on tube with rubber tip air nozzle, and can is charged. Refilling cans, that's pretty cool, but WD40 is nothing more than diesel, and solvent, that won't be there 4 days later, if rusty threads were meant to be free later. WD, is used to flush rust out of threaded fitting, or hinge, then final step, LPS3, this product will protect rusty object, to open air fuse panel on tractor for years. Cheers and thanks for exclusive process.
At first I thought it was a waste of times and efforts . However , most of my aerosol spraying cans do stop working due to lack of pressurized air in the can . Your idea is good .
@@ljbellinger True, but you have to make a larger hole in the can. I think you can spin it in a drill and grind off some brass with a file. It is small enough to work without a lathe.
@@AM-dn4lk Yes, with no Lathe - you read my mind. A punched hole prevents drill swarf inside the can. I knew about this idea, but it was the 100psi that prevented me from doing it. I have many Cans of half-full WD 40 - with no gas inside the aerosol! It happens a lot to WD 40 Cans that I buy.
That's a lot of effort to go through to extend the life of a spray can. My issue is I have cans of wd-40 and other substances where the propellant is gone. Sometimes I can take a blog gun, connected to a compressed air source and using the nozzle to pressurize the can. I remove the little plastic nozzle, press the rubber tip against the little hol3 in the can and press the button. Most of the time I can hear the air bubbling inside the can. If this works, for you, it will allow you to use the last bit in the can. The problem is, doesn't always work. I think a nozzle has to be machined that acts like the plastic spray nozzle. I could machine one, just have better things to do. You can actually purchase containers that are made to be pressurized and refilled, can't remember the brands. The last time I used one, the can leaked a bit. Should say this, but I've taken 30 pound refrigerant jugs, have silver soldered 1/4" male flare fittings with schraeder valves, that allows one to fill the tank with compressed air. I think the "illegal" part is transporting the container on public roads, since the ruling seems to come from the DOT. Keep up the good work. Jim
the problem with refilling those refrigerant jugs is the metal is so thin and it will rust on the inside and can explode and kill you. When they have refrigerant inside they cant rust but will with air inside.
@@jimthvac100 Only fill with air that has been thru a desiccant, drying out the air ... ought to have one of those on the air compressor anyway. on the intake side.
Super informative and educational, I would never thought of using soldering iron that way. I have been using soldering irons for like 25 years. I have an old weller iron, that was given to me second hand when I started, which still works fine, while others have come and gone.
I love watching these type of videos and reading the comments. They offer pros and cons about the hacks. Keep them coming for I learn a lot from viewing and reading.
Schrader valve 1/8" npt threaded tank fittings are available to do the same thing with no machining. The cheapest source of a Schrader valve might be to get an old car tire valve stem, remove the valve core, burn the rubber off of the remaining brass part of the valve, then clean off any residue. One might even be able to secure the valve in the can with epoxy if the fit in the can hole is close.
@@robhunter2435 on plastic pump vessels I drill 1/2 inch hole and and pull a standard tire valve though the opening at a convenient spot and pressurize on the fly with a compact bycice pump that can easily be fitted for transport in the field.
Great job explaining the process, you called every part name correctly and overall nailed it. I don't use WD40 anymore, CRC makes a much better juice. Your shop is worth a review, I know you can make a buck using it. Get more shelving and racking. Thanks.
If you get some AC system valves you also get valve cores that are PTFE, which makes them resistant to much more chemicals as well. Plus no turning involved, just get those without a tail, as then all you have to make is the roughly 3/8 hole to put them in. Or put the cores in the regular valve, as they do fit, making it chemical resistant, say you want to have a spray bottle of acetone or MEK , which dissolves regular neoprene rubber very fast.
Yep... the perfect source for schrader fittings. The slim brass fitting on a copper tail form makes it easy to solder in securely (without specialist tooling) and not stick out like dogs balls. HVAC trade wholesaler is the place to go.
@@rchighfield1 - Yes, BUT... You will leave residue from your refill in your A/C service hoses. Not ideal, IMHO. Especially if you are filling the spray cans with something that can attack the inner hose. Still, if you have A/C gauges and hoses, you can re-pressurize the spray cans with NON-OXYGEN gas (you know which kind!), and eliminate the explosion hazard you get with compressed air. But NEVER pressurize cans with straight Oxygen!
Cool soldering technique. I did something similar to boost foam in my diy shaving lather. It didnt work well. I had to use a shaving foam sprayer that provides enough mixing to boost foaming. You can use gasoline for lathe cleaning ... if you dont smoke. Works fine both as cleaner and lubricant. In order to facilitate filling you can keep the spray cup down. Thanks for sharing.
Hallo, This is In German. Das ist eine tolle Idee. Habe mir jetzt nicht alle Kommentare durchgelesen, vielleicht wurde das eine oder andere schon mitgeteilt. Meine Erfahrung dazu ist. Die Lebensdauer des Sprühkopfes wird auf lange Sicht nicht halten. Ein Wöchentlicher Betrieb im Jahr ergibt eine Lebensdauer von einem halben (1/2) Jahr. Privat habe ich Zwei die jetzt mindestens ca. 8 Jahre halten. Die werden jetzt am Sprühkopf undicht. Und das wiederbefüllen dauert mir persönlich recht lange da ich Bremsenreiniger verwende und den zweiten das gleiche wie WD40 bzw Caramba benutze. Ich habe das gleiche auch mit Plastikflaschen verwendet nur die dickwandige Variante wie zb. Sinalco (0,5 L) Flaschen. Dementsprechend habe ich von leeren Dosen die Sprühköpfe auseinander geschnitten und in die Plastik Verschraubung (Verschluss) der Flasche mit JB Weld eingeklebt. JB Weld ist ein geiles Zeug. Dazu gibt es auch Videos auf ,YT. Nun kommen wir zur Sicherheit. Bis jetzt hast du (Fast) alles richtig gemacht und hast kein Feuer (Flamme) benutzt sondern den Lötkolben. Und nun kommen wir auch zu all deinen Zuschauern die das nachmachen wollen. Ehrlich gesagt, ich würde die Unterseite bzw die Konkave Seite verwenden da dieses viel mehr Druck aushält. Falls jemand nicht richtig arbeitet. ( Bei mir sind es ca. 7 Bar Kompression fülldruck bei ca.3/4 auffüll Volumen). Und ihm durch Spannungsverzerrung an der Dose um die Ohren fliegt. Nebenbei ich habe auch vor ca. 20 Jahren wiederbefüllbare Flaschen gekauft, heute sind sie ca. das doppelte so teuer wie damals aber sie funktionieren bis heute noch gut ich habe lediglich nur die sprühköpfe erneuern müssen. Und das Auffüllen funktioniert ratzfatz. In dem Sinne wünsche ich dir alles gute. 😊
I notice the main problem with these spray type cans is the plastic spray nozzle becoming inoperable due to clogging and/or mechanical failure where it attaches to the check valve. I have yet to find a solution to fix the functionality of the nozzle/valve or safely recover contents inside the can???
Thank you for a great tip,nothing worse than the way we have become so wasteful and the amount of garbage created due to convenience. A little common sense when attempting this and you have proven it is a safe procedure.
Amazing! Thank you for sharing this video. Thank you for the offer in machining the valves and the tip for the solder iron. I would be interested in about the last quarter of this year 2024. Thank you. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
A few tips. Re-label your new can, especially if you use more than one re-fillable can. You can get used valve stems from a tire shop or old inner tubes. No need to buy new ones. Great video
I like the recycle process my only concern is someone figures they can add more air to last longer, we all know idiots are everywhere an they will blow up the can due to overpressure. Just buy the ones for this usage as I paid 5.99 for a plastic bottle with a hand pump built in and a metal one that has a 80 to 150 psi rating for 29.99 at HF and be safe
That's my concern on it. One time I bought a "fillable" compressed air can (it was designed to be refillable, with a standard valve stem on the bottom). Nowhere on the can or the packaging did it give the maximum pressure rating of the can, so I never used it (seemed a highly unsafe item). Either couldn't find the company or couldn't get an answer from them, and whatever store I bought it from (maybe Staples?) would have been clueless on it too. These days I would have reported it to a safety agency or something like Consumer Reports.
Those cans are rated from the manufacturer to hold much more psi than most people's compressor can make. My compressor kicks off at 180 psi and it will not explode a brake cleaner can. Id be more concerned with knocking a hole in a can that has pressure in it (by accident)
That looks like a good one!👍 I like refillable aerosol cans - when they work. Harbor Freight used to sell some, but it was hard to keep them working. Industrial quality refillables are expensive. I use trigger sprayers for some things, but they go bad, too. I like to keep a filled aerosol for my 50/50 acetone/ATF penetrant and one for WD40.
There is a nice squeeze bottle I use for cleaning my paint guns that would make filling those cans a breeze , It's 16 oz. Devilbiss makes one but there are other less expensive ones! Great Idea! Thanks Man!!
I have 2 sure shot spray cans and the problem with them is they are bigger than these smaller cans and the spray too much fluid. I wanted something more controllable and sprays a smaller amount.
This was a neat project, but if you don't want to use a pump sprayer you can go to any LOWE'S STORE and buy (for $8) a battery operated sprayer that screws on a gallon container and it sprays a stream of liquid about 20 feet. No manual pumping needed 😊. I bought 1 about 3 months ago and have used it for all different chemicals and I LOVE IT! PS--- IT'S SOLD OVER BY THE BUG SPRAYS.👍
Why not just use a hand pump spray bottle? I have one that came from WD-40 and it even has the WD-40 logo on it. It cost me $2 and I've had it for 25 years
I find the pump bottles to be spotty as far as quality and dependability. I use a Vaper pressurized spray bottle, but its a bit much, when sometimes I just want a little squirt
cool for some situations, but generally much simpler to just put bulk liquid in a cheap pump sprayer... or if you really want wd-40 sells their own pump sprayers which are good. Main thing is to buy liquid in at lest a gallon size for best value.
This is the best video on this subject, or project for a better word! For me, video with no music is a Big plus, even if the video is not so good, or the instructions, which is not the case here. And another fact that turn me way from any video or information online is AI. I already have the devil speaking to me, every minute, so don’t need to hear his voice, God's Voice Yes 😊. I'm disappointed though, thought I had all the necessary tools and materials to do this, but not so. I need to go out and shop for a metal lathe to get it done. Hope my wife will fall for it and do the blessing!😅😅
See my post on this all you need is a drill press and a good file, I will inform your wife, you dont need a $6000 lathe, but maybe she could get you one for your birthday/christmas/fathers day.
@@PoisonShot20people spend $40k on a bass boat because it's fun, how is this different? It pays for itself with the joy of building something, not the savings on the things you build. 😉
G day from Ontario Interesting. yes the cans are getting expensive! But I notice somewhere a gal was 79 or 89.$ ??? I think Thanks crazy the way prices are. Ths
You can always make some homebrew to save a few bucks. Like a mix of atf with a little gasoline for penetrating oil. It won't be as good as wd or kroil but it would be 1/10 the price.
I’ve seen reusable aerosol sprayers on eBay for $32. I do like this man’s idea better. I bet somewhere on eBay there is the correct size valve available where you would only need a drill and some solder.
So naturally, the armchair engineer here went down the rabbit hold of burst pressures. Because this could end up being a rally cool single shot air gun! Especially with the valve on top! I found that the cans are rated for about 140psi with a burst pressure of about 200psi, so charging to 100psi should be good! What I didn't know was the importance of the solder joint itself. 50/50 tin-lead has a relatively low burst pressure of about 150 to 200psi; while 95/5 Tin-Antimony rates between 300 and 500psi. Keeping this in mind, this looks like a really cool way to recycle spray cans! I reckon just point the schrader valve out front just in case!
I worry a little about air on top of a fuel, but I suppose you could use argon if you have a bottle for a mig welder. If your valve core gets eaten up by the solvent, you could try an hvac core - fits a standard schrader but is more chemical resistant and goes to higher pressure. You can get them off the ac system on junk cars. I may try this, but fill the can with my own atf/acetone mix.
I also worry about using compressed air to pressurize atop fuel. I advise against it, and definitely NEVER pressurize cans with straight Oxygen! Nitrogen (for filling tires) is available at some service stations. CO2 also works, and for some purposes, injecting some Butane would be a good way to pressurize. Using air also runs the risk of putting water into the can, which will rust through fairly quickly if there is any free Oxygen in the can.
My favorite DIY homemade concoction to replace the expensive liquids intended for breaking away stuck or rusted fasteners, is exactly a mix of either acetone or MEK and synthetic ATF+4, around half and half, but could vary between 60/40 to 40/60, depending on how fine or coarse are the stuck threads... Way better than "PB Blaster", "Liquiwrench", "Kroil", "Würth Rost-Off", and of course the very mediocre WD-40...
Congratulation for your techik! All the process as you showed is foolproof. Thank you for your solution. You know in my counrty here is so expensive the can sraying stuffs. So it is chanche for reusing the empty bottles. Best regards from Hungary!
Just a thought, since 99.99- - % of the people who may want to try this, but don’t have a lathe, I’m assuming the reason why you want to turn the valve down is to make more space for the solder. If that’s the case try chucking the valve in a drill and using a file or bench grinder turn the valve down and emery cloth to get the size you need.
Solder the valve body near the bottom side of the can, about an inch from the bottom rim. I have inadvertently melted the _Spray Valve On The Can_ before, and moving the new fill valve down and away, eliminated that problem . . for me. But, yes, this definitely works, . . surprisingly well. Nice video, very easy to understand and I can clearly see how you are doing it. That's my biggest problem with making videos, I don't get good b-roll, so it's difficult for people to understand me.
A rubber tire valve stem can be used to fill the can through the nozzle stem. Pull the nozzle off and use the valve stem just as you would if it was in a wheel. The rubber will seal against the can top an air will go in the stem of the can.
I have a can with an air valve that I ordered years ago. I use mine for WD40 too. I do get a tad nervous when pumping air into it, but no fireballs so far.
I use clear spray bottles for different lubes and penetrants. One thing Ive noticed with the clear bottles is how much certain liquids settle. WD40 is one that has a pearl jam like substance that settles on the bottom. It needs shaken before use or before pouring into another container such as the small bottle used to fill the aerosol cans. Just a tip!
Great video, please consider getting an air chuck with a lock so you can stand back while airing up the can. Not sure, but those cans are probably designed for single use and multiple refills may weaken them. 100 psi in a metal can is a bomb!
Diesel is just as good for lubrication on rusty stuff, and a hell of a lot cheaper. WD40 is good for getting moisture out and protecting against on plug leads etc. But diesel is way more economical for everything else. And you don’t need to turn the valve down. 😁👍
top tip of today. . when you're filling it with compressed air do it in an inflation cage, that's what they call them in a commercial setting but a strong cardboard box with the lid closed will suffice, when they go bang the valves are like bullets ! ! let's be careful out there,
I use a cardboard box and a clip on inflator and raise the pressure remotely at the regulator. For me the box was less about safety and more about cleanliness in case of a blow out
We used to do this back in the day with old r22/r12refrigerant tanks. They worked great to inflate tires. The cans would rust on the inside because of the moisture in the air. Then they would explode killing people. The government shutdown the reusing of the cans as a result of the injured and deaths. They made the companies incorporate features to stop them from being refilled.
@@Look_What_You_Did WOW, why dont you cut one open and look. Even the inside of soda cans are coated because the carbonic acid, phosphoric acid and citric acid would corrode the can without it. Thanks for the comment and helping the TH-cam Algorithm.
SORRY TO HAVE TO SAY THIS, BUT YOU ARE ONE OF THE MILLIONS OF PEOPLE THAT THINK THAT WAY. HERE IS AN EYE OPENER FOR YOU SOME PEOPLE EAT TO LIVE AND SOME LIVE TO EAT. BY THE SAME TOKEN SOME WORK TO LIVE AND SOME LIVE TO WORK. IF YOU LIVE TO WORK YOU ARE MISSING OUT ON THE EXTRA FREE TIME FOR YOURSELF, FAMILY, FRIENDS AND OTHERS YOU WILL NEVER MEET OR GIVE HELP TOO WHEN THEY NEED IT MORE THAN YOU KNOW. PS I CURRENTLY LIVE TO WORK.
@@kevinwilson9776 Is your caps lock broken to the on position or are you shouting on purpose? This is offensive on the internet .... a breach of netiquette. Both Michael and Keven should stop this crap.
Some rattle cans have a nice quality spray tip on them where you can change the pattern from vertical to sideways, so you can actually filll that with automotive paint and do the door jambs of your car and smaller areas easily and cheaply nice idea, one thing I would try to add is a gauge to measure how much pressure you are putting in the can to keep safe and consistent, I also would put that Schrader valve on the bottom of the can, mainly because if that pops off somebody can lose an eye or something else that's near and dear to them if it pops off the bottom it might hit one of your toes or something.,my bad I saw you addressed the problem but you could fashion a little safety loop that fits over the top that doesn't interfere with you spraying to keep you safe from that thing ever popping off you can even make one cutting up another can it only has to stop the initial inertia to work, that thing would fly off of there like a pellet gun I wouldn't want my face in front of it.
you dont actually need a $6000 lathe or even a $1500 one. You can cut the valves off old bike or car/tractor tubes, whatever, and while there may not be a convenient flange to seat it in the can as long as you make the hole a neat fit and carefully position the valve no problem, I have not in NZ seen the valves for sale here, but they might be. And if you are desperate you could put a valve in your drill press and use a file to carefully machine a "step" for easier positioning.
One can pretest the air pressure the way Plumbers and Steamfitters test gas pipe. Just make a fitting that has a PSI gauge on it put some soapy water in your can and inflate to pressure and let sit overnight and if it holds the same PSI and no leaks your good to go! The soapy water will tell you where the leaks if any are as well! after that drain rinse out and let the can dry out as well If the rated PSI is 100Psi on the can, I'd use 75 PSI on it for safety reasons and your not over stressing the can! you can always add some air if needed. Id use a dip straw as well to tell you the level of fluid is in the can as well!
Thank you for sharing this great money saving tip. I am curious as to where you acquired the plastic 3oz squeeze bottle with miniature nozzle. perhaps you could include a link in the description. Well done.
You definitely want the shraeder valve on the top.If you place the shraeder valve below the fluid level any solvent in the can could begin to dissolve the rubber seal in the valve leading to valve failure and a pressurized mess. This mod also allows you to store/transport your cans unpressurized (ie air freight), use specific pressure settings or even make you own custom blends. DW40 + CRC 5.56 blend? Sacrilege to suggest adulterating DW40?
I would suggest not air freight or any professional freight for an altered pressure vessel. I am not sure what the fine would be but it something I do not want to find out.
Well, I suppose if you can do this to a starting fluid can without an explosion that makes you a bonnet out of it, we should be able to do it on about anything else. 😂😂
Wow.... I didn't know you could solder a steel can with a normal solder, I though you need a silver solder and high heat. For some reason I tried to solder 3/16 copper tube together with one a larger connecting tube in between using torch and it still managed not to work even though I used flux (the one for normal electronics soldering). Maybe the torch was too much? I never though a solder iron would work so well. This is great idea, in fact I wonder if I can do this to make a refillable CO2 blow can. Those things have gotten so expensive but are so useful to clean dust from computers and spilled powder from my reloading press.
I agree on not drilling the cans, eventually some small crap will get inside and clog it up. I just use brass tips made for installing brass threaded inserts into plastic, they are made for the soldering irons that use a sleeve and collar nut where tip slides onto the ceramic heater. Can get them single size or in sets. Those style of irons are really the only ones that have a standard tip design, I highly recommend that style since so many companies make tip accesories for them far cheaper than Weller sells their normal soldering tips for. Making one for an iron where the tip threads on can be brand specific.
Yes, you DO need a lathe. And a milling machine. And a TIG. My other car nut friends don't really agree. Guess who gets asked to do welding, turning, and milling regularly? If you don't have that stuff, you're a "replacer", No? (Hopefully with good diagnostic skills.)
@@bryanbeddingfield5489I agree. I only have a mini lathe but the amount of things I've made and repaired with it over the years, I sure wouldn't want to be without it now. I'd love an AC/DC TIG to tackle aluminium but they are expensive to buy and it's a real skill to master I know. I have a MIG and stick welder for the other metals so kind of get by.
There's not much you can do with a lathe or a mill that you cannot do with a file and some determination. Is it practical for someone who is spoiled with a lathe and mill, no. If you own a wood splitter you're not going to split a seasons worth of wood with an ax, but if not, you don't have to freeze to death. To scrape a little bit of brass off with a file would probably take half the time that the rest of the project takes. Probably half the time setting up and turning down. It doesn't take a Skin-o-matic 5000 to skin a cat either, there's a bunch of ways.
@@ricoloco2803 I was that guy, struggled with a file etc to get the job done, then I bought a lathe and mill and learned how to use them, that in itself is satisfying. At the end of the day, the moto 'right tool for the right job' applies for good reason.
@@ricoloco2803 How long would it take you to "Machine" a 5/8ths keyway in a solid 6" stainless shaft ? Thanks, you sound very knowledgeable, and talented.
A conical drill bit or bur run in reverse can deform a nice concave hole. Using a standard fitting it can be force threaded tightly into that hole (pliershelp). Screwing it in with some quick-set epoxy (surfaces gotta be CLEAN of oil), will seal it for years.
That’s a pretty good idea. I thought the solder iron mod was brilliant! I think only thing I would do differently is use dry nitrogen to charge the can. I happen to have that handy I know not everyone does tho. That may help mitigate any problems with moisture and bacteria in the can over time.
I'm aspiring to be assisting in enhancing your TH-cam algorithm, I have subscribed, liked, and I am actively watching and commenting from Quakertown, Pennsylvania, USA.
Great idea and method! Technically you could just hacksaw the end off, use a dremel or pedestal grinder or even angle grinder to make a step (measure with vernier caliper until near enough the size you want, doesn't even have to be in the middle) then solder that on. Solder will fill any gaps assuming it won't be perfectly round. If this is going to be accessible to all people there needs to be a way to do it with less specialised tools/adapters so see if you can work out a more 'ghetto' way and do another video on it, thanks!!
Exactly, you would be surprised how many people think because I used a lathe, they are completely out of luck in doing this but with a little imagination there are other ways to achieve the same outcome.
@@737mechanic Pity I didn't know about this years ago. Now retired but I worked as a cnc programmer/machinist and could have made 100,000 of those things in an hour hehe! One of my machines even had 2 chucks so I could have done work parts on one side and 'home' parts on the other side hehe!
I did this a couple years ago using an old rubber valve from a car wheel cause you can cut off the rubber and it is brass inside, don't need to cut down other than that. Only problem is that when i fill it there is a problem with getting it in there cause the air needs to come out as the liquid goes in and it is more difficult than shown here. When my WD 40 can is empty I'll do it with that one. Thanks.
For about the same price as a few schrader valves, I could instead buy a few good quality chemical spray bottles that work better and are safe, easy to fill/maintain, more reliable/robust, and even clear so I can see the content levels. I'll save my shop time for innovations that actually outperform off-the-shelf solutions (in cost if nothing else) so I can feel like my effort and time are actually worth something.
I absolutely love the idea and i would do it, but in the interest of safety and not wanting anyone's father getting hurt, i would suggest that if the can is rated at aprox 100psi, i wouldnt pressurize it to no more than 75, 80 psi. these cans arent meant to withstand the stress of repressurizing them so eventually they could potentially fail if you are pushing them to their original limits. you dont want to be holding it at 100 psi when it decides to fail. much better to have to keep adding air every so often than taking a trip to the ER. Stay safe guys
Necessity is the mother of invention, for sure. That said, for those that do not have the time, the skills, or a lathe... "refillable pressure sprayer cansisters" are available for doing the same thing that was shown in the video.
Tractor Air Liquid Valve, Brass Tire Valve Stems
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Weller SP40 40 Watt Soldering Iron
amzn.to/45BBkUM
Squeeze Bottles
amzn.to/4bkKTc8
60/40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder
amzn.to/4cRFPxf
No-Clean Soldering Flux Paste
amzn.to/3VRE4u8
5 Grits Emery Cloth Roll, 150 240 320 400 600 Grits
amzn.to/3xoeBz9
Tire Valve Tools,4-in-1 Valve Core Tool
amzn.to/3RC0kpw
Grizzly 12x36 Gunsmithing Lathe
amzn.to/3W3vOGv
Refillable High Pressure Aerosol Spray
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Where did you get the 3oz fill bottle with the PERFECT cap / valve fit?
@@Thinker2-truth it looked just like the one I have, from Shaklee multi-level sales group around 30 years ago. Made from high-density, high-molecular weight, polyethylene blown as shown. Great little squeeze/squirter. The ones he offered via amazon are the thin wall delicately handled version, they do not have a flip to dispense top either.
@737mechanic wd 40 separates when it's mixed it's cloudy I noticed yours was clear means it's not mixed just a FYI cool video
I have a vintage JenniCan that you can open the top to get your product in easier. It will be nice when they become popular again.
Just had a look and while there are dozens of DIY mods and through he valve refill options I was happy to see that there were at least 11 contemporary refillable systems showcased and they seemed to have removable tops that let you fill them easily.
Search for "refillable aerosol can" here for examples like
FirstTool
EWK
Gravity R/C
TruePower
SprayMaker
VIM
YouCAN
Preval
SOPPEC
Jounjip
ShureShot
Galaxy brain move holy
So, you don't need a drill or or torch, but you do need a lathe......right 🤣😂🤣
Thats all. Everyone needs a lathe.
It wouldn't really need a lathe you could easily cut it with a hacksaw spin it in a drill with a piece of sandpaper.
More have a drill or a torch. Very few have a lathe ???
@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh Get a lathe, problem solved.
Was thinking same thing.
So I ordered the schrader valves, found an empty can and did this. It worked out well. I'm using it as we speak. Thanks from a "workshop type"☺
Be aware. if you overpressure it the schrader valve could explode out of the can like a bullet, especially if you accidentally drop it and the can lands "just wrong". the can itself has been weakened buy introducing a hole into its structure. Hacks like this can be very dangerous. much safer to just buy a pressure pot for your compressor or a pump pack designed for the purpose.
@@DeveloperChris You're a democrat, right?
I've turned stuff like that down in my drill press with a half inch chuck and a file. This is a very nice hack. I had been filling cans by pressing a wheel stem onto a spray can and using the schrader valve that way. This is way better. Thanks for posting. (I like the soldering iron hack too!)
the tire valve stems are made of rubber that is not oil resistant. the oil inside will eat tru the stem and will shoot the valve out, hopefully NOT in your eyes.
@@west_park7993 the sealing ring doesn't retain the stem, it's metal and gets screwed into the assembly. If it deteriorated, it would just start leaking .
The solder letting go is the risk of the valve going projectile.
@@west_park7993 Those are made for cars. Get some made for big truck rims and they will be all metal.
By using a punch, you create more surface (mate-ing) area between the Brass Tire Valve & The Can. Great idea. Can should last a life time. Also by positioning the Brass Tire Valve @ the top of the can, (above the liquid level) you keep the solvent from continuous soaking of the Schrader Valve gasket / seal. Yes you can drill, but I would argue the punching of the hole will give a more desired mechanical result. Thanks for sharing.
Also, on your punch, after you achieve the correct diameter hole to receive the Brass Tire Valve, you could mark with a pen of some type, or scratch a line on the tip of the punch.
No swarf from drill in can to stuff up spray nozzle
@@johngibson3837 I'm jealous I didn't think about that. But that's one of the few good things about U-TUBE, the sharing of ideas. Great thinking John, you the man.
The dispensing valve in the can has a low service life, intended for single use and so, built cheap. It is not serviceable.
The can will not "last a lifetime" unless you mean a few refills.
Placing the charge valve in the base pressure dome is a stupid idea, but not for the fluid immersion issue, which the valve will always suffer, be it vapor of fluid in a pressure charged can.
Drilling into the can is a messy stupid idea. Pearce the small hole and open up by roll forming using a hardened steel rod (screwdriver shaft) is far superior.
The hole only needs to be 1/4" diameter if you buy the cheap copper hose tail Schrader fittings. (HVAC industry) Certainly not agricultural tyre stems.
About the air pressure limit? If I ask my son to put air in it, forget it. I rather use a bicycle pump, air compressor is too dangerous, WD cans are stronger than others.
@@stanwooddave9758 thanks Stan appreciate your words
I didn't read down for all the comments but, if you are a 737 Wrench, you have probably pressure tested a 100 things with soap bubbles. Every time I rehook propane bottles on trailers, swapping tanks on my Oxy/Acy welding tanks, aviator's breathing O2 bottles and so forth. Cheap insurance. Good vid 👍
When I was a parachute rigger we used mil-spec "Leak Tech" which was taxpayer funded liquid dish soap in an extravagant guize... Nothing like a few hits of 100% aviators breathing oxygen when there's too much red in the white of your eyes!
I found a 737R Impact Rated Precision Action Wrench. Is that what you mean?
Funny, as a 10 year old kid in the 1960's I used to do this because them sprays were eating too much into my pocket money. Then oiling sprays become cheap as dirt. Now literally over 60 years later I am on the brink of doing this again because of corporate conglomeration having gone out of control.
the corporations aren't making any more money, the dollar is losing it's value. LOL
@@gregmize01 Maybe socialism is evil? Bideb does not remember data centers so he could organise a book burning?
Another benefit of having enviro activists running the EPA.
@@OneWildTurkeyEcoassholes...
Turn that gallon can over to the side with your nozzle on the high side. You can pour it out with a nice even stream.....your welcome
That’s an awesome idea. People don’t realize many times that chemicals that many people believe to be next to free or cost very little in repIair/manufacturing commercial/industrial settings are actually pretty expensive especially in small use applications scenarios ie. Aerosol sprays vs refillable compressed air sprayers. I worked for a chemical company and most sales were industrial totes of product but some of the same products in spray cans were 3-4 times the price or more and would still not equate the quantity of product difference. For those wondering and are not aware , there are already refillable compressed air bottles sprayers but last I was involved w that industry, they were expensive as in $100 plus USD for a slightly larger sized can than the one this gentleman modified. Great hack…
I hate waste and overpaying for stuff. This was so satisfying to see. My Dad always said, it's skills like this that win wars. Thanks
@@almason253 then we're gonna lose the next war cuz gen z cant even change a tire or drive a stick.
This is an easy operation requiring simple tools... I have a commercial version of this, with a heavy duty aluminum tank, brass schrader valve, and a trigger sprayer. I keep PB Blaster in mine...
Interchangeable spray patterns - best most ingenious advice this year. Thanks Mech.
Empty window-cleaner and other hand-spray bottles can be adapted to spray many other liquids too.
I’m glad you mentioned to save the tips for the different spray patterns. The tip on the starter fluid can is like a garden hose with out a nozzle.
Ps. I love the “but you need a lathe” comment 😂😂😂
These guys will say anything to keep a laugh going…! Don’t takem seriously.😂
💦💦💦💦💦💦, so true old pump spray bottle would same results on stream setting 😅
Awesome, you solved three problems, filling land fills, recycling and saving money. Great video, thanks, I'll have to start doing this. I'm done with over paying for things. Refill cost given the numbers you stated, $2.07 for a full can of WD-40, saved $6.
Excellent "How To" with tips to boot. I've always wanted to do this but have never seen a simpler way. Thnaks
This is GOT DAMNED GENIUS!! Now, if i can figure out a way to do this with a air wick spray can for my refillable, automatic sprayer it could change the world!! Those things are so expensive and last only a week maybe a little longer.
Hi Niki! Although it seems to be a good idea, it isn't. That method does work with compressed air, which is sort of OKish on large cans, although its really tedious, because you have to bring the can up to pressure very often. On small cans like the air wick stuff, it doesnt work at all.
The reason is pretty simple: spray cans normally are filled with the product you want to spray plus a liquid, that has a very low boiling point, so it is - at room temperature and under normal pressure - already a gas. Compressed to 3-5bar however, it is still a liquid. A good example for such a substance is propane gas, which is indeed used in spray cans as propellant. In the propane tank you might know perhaps from a BBQ or camping stove, it is under pressure and liquid and when you release it from the tank it evaporates and becomes gas. The benefit is, that as a liquid, it takes much less space, than as gas (comparable to water, that creates an enormous amount of steam as it boils)
Now this effect is used as well to propel the product out of a spray can. When you press the cap, the pressure squeezes out the product as well as some propane gas (that is why the vapes are flammable even if the product isn't). The trick is now, that as you loose pressure, liquid propane will evaporate, until the initial pressure is re-established.
In simple words: the propellant gas is practically a built-in compressor, that keeps the pressure high until all the propellant is evaporated and hopefully all of the product came out of the can.
With compressed air, you have only a limited airspace over the product under pressure. When that pressure is used up, you need to refill the compressed air. That is why it works soso with larger cans. With an air wick you have perhaps 1-2 ml of air under pressure. That is probably even not enough for one single spray.
Sorry for popping your dreamubble and sorry for using the metric measures. Being German I'm not used to convert to imperial.
Cheers
Andreas
Don't take much to impress some people.
Brilliant solution and I wouldn't even need an air compressor. I could use my bicycle pump to pressurize it.
yeah but probably better use a car tire foot pump as getting it up to 80-100psi with a bike pump will be a challenge ;-)
@@g4z-kb7ct I have both a floor pump and a frame pump but a foot pump would make it hands-free so that's a great idea.
lol this method is a hell of a lot better than the one I just seen where someone turned a plastic tube into a refillable spray paint can lol. Man that was a lot of work.
Dremel is your friend, Cordless, it'll remove any coating with Scotchbright wheel is a second.
Also last 40 yrs, I simply remove spray head, and hit the valve tube coming out of can with compressed air, pressing down on tube with rubber tip air nozzle, and can is charged.
Refilling cans, that's pretty cool, but WD40 is nothing more than diesel, and solvent, that won't be there 4 days later, if rusty threads were meant to be free later. WD, is used to flush rust out of threaded fitting, or hinge, then final step, LPS3, this product will protect rusty object, to open air fuse panel on tractor for years.
Cheers and thanks for exclusive process.
Brilliant !
At first I thought it was a waste of times and efforts . However , most of my aerosol spraying cans do stop working due to lack of pressurized air in the can . Your idea is good .
No need to lathe the valve, can simply remove the rubber from a standard tire valve and solder
@@ljbellinger True, but you have to make a larger hole in the can. I think you can spin it in a drill and grind off some brass with a file. It is small enough to work without a lathe.
@@AM-dn4lk Yes, with no Lathe - you read my mind. A punched hole prevents drill swarf inside the can. I knew about this idea, but it was the 100psi that prevented me from doing it. I have many Cans of half-full WD 40 - with no gas inside the aerosol! It happens a lot to WD 40 Cans that I buy.
@@peterduxbury927 PB Blaster is my notorious gas fail with lots of penetrate product left. Great fix!
@@peterduxbury927 Just take the spray nozzle off and use an air blower in thru the outlet tube on your cans that still have content in them😎
@petermurphy3354 Yes sir, especially that rubber tip blow gun, works on so many things...
That's a lot of effort to go through to extend the life of a spray can. My issue is I have cans of wd-40 and other substances where the propellant is gone. Sometimes I can take a blog gun, connected to a compressed air source and using the nozzle to pressurize the can. I remove the little plastic nozzle, press the rubber tip against the little hol3 in the can and press the button. Most of the time I can hear the air bubbling inside the can. If this works, for you, it will allow you to use the last bit in the can. The problem is, doesn't always work. I think a nozzle has to be machined that acts like the plastic spray nozzle. I could machine one, just have better things to do.
You can actually purchase containers that are made to be pressurized and refilled, can't remember the brands. The last time I used one, the can leaked a bit.
Should say this, but I've taken 30 pound refrigerant jugs, have silver soldered 1/4" male flare fittings with schraeder valves, that allows one to fill the tank with compressed air. I think the "illegal" part is transporting the container on public roads, since the ruling seems to come from the DOT.
Keep up the good work.
Jim
the problem with refilling those refrigerant jugs is the metal is so thin and it will rust on the inside and can explode and kill you. When they have refrigerant inside they cant rust but will with air inside.
@@jimthvac100 Only fill with air that has been thru a desiccant, drying out the air ... ought to have one of those on the air compressor anyway. on the intake side.
Now that you're sure that solder joint doesn't leak you should go ahead and fix that leaky air compressor or hose end.
I think the hissing sound you are hearing is the sound of insects outside (cicadas and such), not compressed air.
Super informative and educational, I would never thought of using soldering iron that way. I have been using soldering irons for like 25 years. I have an old weller iron, that was given to me second hand when I started, which still works fine, while others have come and gone.
This is a great idea for us "workshop types" Thanks for the upload
I love watching these type of videos and reading the comments. They offer pros and cons about the hacks. Keep them coming for I learn a lot from viewing and reading.
Schrader valve 1/8" npt threaded tank fittings are available to do the same thing with no machining. The cheapest source of a Schrader valve might be to get an old car tire valve stem, remove the valve core, burn the rubber off of the remaining brass part of the valve, then clean off any residue. One might even be able to secure the valve in the can with epoxy if the fit in the can hole is close.
JB welded shrader valves on garden sprayers so I do not have to manually pump for air.
@@robhunter2435 🤯 I hadn't thought about that! Thanks for sharing, now I know what I'll be doing tomorrow morning!
@@robhunter2435 on plastic pump vessels I drill 1/2 inch hole and and pull a standard tire valve though the opening at a convenient spot and pressurize on the fly with a compact bycice pump that can easily be fitted for transport in the field.
Great job explaining the process, you called every part name correctly and overall nailed it. I don't use WD40 anymore, CRC makes a much better juice. Your shop is worth a review, I know you can make a buck using it. Get more shelving and racking. Thanks.
Acetone &ATF MIXED 50-50 Makes the best penetrating mixture! To losen frozen bolts and etc.😊
If you get some AC system valves you also get valve cores that are PTFE, which makes them resistant to much more chemicals as well. Plus no turning involved, just get those without a tail, as then all you have to make is the roughly 3/8 hole to put them in. Or put the cores in the regular valve, as they do fit, making it chemical resistant, say you want to have a spray bottle of acetone or MEK , which dissolves regular neoprene rubber very fast.
Couldn’t you pull a vacuum on the can using a set of gauges stick your refrigerant line in the WD40 can?
genius dude ty! already ordered 10 lol
Yep... the perfect source for schrader fittings. The slim brass fitting on a copper tail form makes it easy to solder in securely (without specialist tooling) and not stick out like dogs balls.
HVAC trade wholesaler is the place to go.
@@homerogonzalez2909 Naaa.. just trade and craft.
@@rchighfield1 - Yes, BUT... You will leave residue from your refill in your A/C service hoses. Not ideal, IMHO. Especially if you are filling the spray cans with something that can attack the inner hose. Still, if you have A/C gauges and hoses, you can re-pressurize the spray cans with NON-OXYGEN gas (you know which kind!), and eliminate the explosion hazard you get with compressed air. But NEVER pressurize cans with straight Oxygen!
Cool soldering technique. I did something similar to boost foam in my diy shaving lather. It didnt work well. I had to use a shaving foam sprayer that provides enough mixing to boost foaming. You can use gasoline for lathe cleaning ... if you dont smoke. Works fine both as cleaner and lubricant. In order to facilitate filling you can keep the spray cup down. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for taking the time to show your method!!
Great video, helps allot of people that don't have al the tools to do things the same way as others...
Hallo,
This is In German.
Das ist eine tolle Idee.
Habe mir jetzt nicht alle Kommentare durchgelesen, vielleicht wurde das eine oder andere schon mitgeteilt.
Meine Erfahrung dazu ist.
Die Lebensdauer des Sprühkopfes wird auf lange Sicht nicht halten.
Ein Wöchentlicher Betrieb im Jahr ergibt eine Lebensdauer von einem halben (1/2) Jahr.
Privat habe ich Zwei die jetzt mindestens ca. 8 Jahre halten.
Die werden jetzt am Sprühkopf undicht.
Und das wiederbefüllen dauert mir persönlich recht lange da ich Bremsenreiniger verwende und den zweiten das gleiche wie WD40 bzw Caramba benutze.
Ich habe das gleiche auch mit Plastikflaschen verwendet nur die dickwandige Variante wie zb. Sinalco (0,5 L) Flaschen.
Dementsprechend habe ich von leeren Dosen die Sprühköpfe auseinander geschnitten und in die Plastik Verschraubung (Verschluss) der Flasche mit JB Weld eingeklebt.
JB Weld ist ein geiles Zeug.
Dazu gibt es auch Videos auf ,YT.
Nun kommen wir zur Sicherheit.
Bis jetzt hast du (Fast) alles richtig gemacht und hast kein Feuer (Flamme) benutzt sondern den Lötkolben.
Und nun kommen wir auch zu all deinen Zuschauern die das nachmachen wollen.
Ehrlich gesagt, ich würde die Unterseite bzw die Konkave Seite verwenden da dieses viel mehr Druck aushält. Falls jemand nicht richtig arbeitet.
( Bei mir sind es ca. 7 Bar Kompression fülldruck bei ca.3/4 auffüll Volumen).
Und ihm durch Spannungsverzerrung an der Dose um die Ohren fliegt.
Nebenbei ich habe auch vor ca. 20 Jahren wiederbefüllbare Flaschen gekauft, heute sind sie ca. das doppelte so teuer wie damals aber sie funktionieren bis heute noch gut ich habe lediglich nur die sprühköpfe erneuern müssen. Und das Auffüllen funktioniert ratzfatz.
In dem Sinne wünsche ich dir alles gute. 😊
I also bought refillable bottles about 20 years ago or so. My spray heads leak and need replaced. Where did you find replacement spray heads?
I notice the main problem with these spray type cans is the plastic spray nozzle becoming inoperable due to clogging and/or mechanical failure where it attaches to the check valve. I have yet to find a solution to fix the functionality of the nozzle/valve or safely recover contents inside the can???
Thank you for a great tip,nothing worse than the way we have become so wasteful and the amount of garbage created due to convenience. A little common sense when attempting this and you have proven it is a safe procedure.
Amazing! Thank you for sharing this video. Thank you for the offer in machining the valves and the tip for the solder iron. I would be interested in about the last quarter of this year 2024. Thank you. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
A few tips. Re-label your new can, especially if you use more than one re-fillable can. You can get used valve stems from a tire shop or old inner tubes. No need to buy new ones. Great video
I like the recycle process my only concern is someone figures they can add more air to last longer, we all know idiots are everywhere an they will blow up the can due to overpressure. Just buy the ones for this usage as I paid 5.99 for a plastic bottle with a hand pump built in and a metal one that has a 80 to 150 psi rating for 29.99 at HF and be safe
That's my concern on it. One time I bought a "fillable" compressed air can (it was designed to be refillable, with a standard valve stem on the bottom). Nowhere on the can or the packaging did it give the maximum pressure rating of the can, so I never used it (seemed a highly unsafe item). Either couldn't find the company or couldn't get an answer from them, and whatever store I bought it from (maybe Staples?) would have been clueless on it too. These days I would have reported it to a safety agency or something like Consumer Reports.
If you can operate a lathe safely, you're probably safe to handle a little compressed air.
Stop trying to parent idiots karen. These people do dumb sht for stupid reasons because they just dont care.
Those cans are rated from the manufacturer to hold much more psi than most people's compressor can make. My compressor kicks off at 180 psi and it will not explode a brake cleaner can. Id be more concerned with knocking a hole in a can that has pressure in it (by accident)
Nice! Different take on what I've seen others do.
I'm lazy and just buy Refillable Air Powered Spray Can for 25-35 bucks.
That looks like a good one!👍 I like refillable aerosol cans - when they work. Harbor Freight used to sell some, but it was hard to keep them working. Industrial quality refillables are expensive. I use trigger sprayers for some things, but they go bad, too. I like to keep a filled aerosol for my 50/50 acetone/ATF penetrant and one for WD40.
There is a nice squeeze bottle I use for cleaning my paint guns that would make filling those cans a breeze , It's 16 oz. Devilbiss makes one but there are other less expensive ones! Great Idea! Thanks Man!!
You should consider selling these as a kit, with the adapter for the soldering iron and the machined down valve cores. Great video
I'd be interested in a set of 4 if you're willing to make them up
A little bit too much liability maybe.
EVERY Spray bottle seals or plastic gets brittle with time. This is a great refillable solution for solvents, acids and even weed killer!!!!❤❤❤❤
A really good video. I like the soldering of the valve. Nice technique.
Harbor freight sells a reusable spray can cheap and you can spray anything out of them. Had one for ten years now and still works great.
Except they are not cheap anymore at $39.99
I have 2 sure shot spray cans and the problem with them is they are bigger than these smaller cans and the spray too much fluid. I wanted something more controllable and sprays a smaller amount.
This was a neat project, but if you don't want to use a pump sprayer you can go to any LOWE'S STORE and buy (for $8) a battery operated sprayer that screws on a gallon container and it sprays a stream of liquid about 20 feet. No manual pumping needed 😊. I bought 1 about 3 months ago and have used it for all different chemicals and I LOVE IT!
PS--- IT'S SOLD OVER BY THE BUG SPRAYS.👍
SPOT ON . . . .THE OLY PROBLEM IS FEW OF US HAVE MILLING MACHINE 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 EXCELLENT
Why not just use a hand pump spray bottle? I have one that came from WD-40 and it even has the WD-40 logo on it. It cost me $2 and I've had it for 25 years
The newer refillable spray bottles dont last all that long.....Chyna made
@@safetyharborfirearms I AGREE, I HAD ONE LAST 2 WEEKS
Mine kept falling over and leaking WD all,over the place.
I find the pump bottles to be spotty as far as quality and dependability. I use a Vaper pressurized spray bottle, but its a bit much, when sometimes I just want a little squirt
Exactly
cool for some situations, but generally much simpler to just put bulk liquid in a cheap pump sprayer... or if you really want wd-40 sells their own pump sprayers which are good. Main thing is to buy liquid in at lest a gallon size for best value.
This is the best video on this subject, or project for a better word! For me, video with no music is a Big plus, even if the video is not so good, or the instructions, which is not the case here. And another fact that turn me way from any video or information online is AI. I already have the devil speaking to me, every minute, so don’t need to hear his voice, God's Voice Yes 😊. I'm disappointed though, thought I had all the necessary tools and materials to do this, but not so. I need to go out and shop for a metal lathe to get it done. Hope my wife will fall for it and do the blessing!😅😅
Same here 🤥
@@richardpetker4337 But, what the heck, spending over 1K to do a $10.00 project is not so bad! LOL!
See my post on this all you need is a drill press and a good file, I will inform your wife, you dont need a $6000 lathe, but maybe she could get you one for your birthday/christmas/fathers day.
@@PoisonShot20people spend $40k on a bass boat because it's fun, how is this different?
It pays for itself with the joy of building something, not the savings on the things you build. 😉
G day from Ontario Interesting. yes the cans are getting expensive! But I notice somewhere a gal was 79 or 89.$ ??? I think
Thanks crazy the way prices are. Ths
You can always make some homebrew to save a few bucks. Like a mix of atf with a little gasoline for penetrating oil. It won't be as good as wd or kroil but it would be 1/10 the price.
I’ve seen reusable aerosol sprayers on eBay for $32. I do like this man’s idea better. I bet somewhere on eBay there is the correct size valve available where you would only need a drill and some solder.
Nicely done! Don't forget to label the can with what its new contents are.
So naturally, the armchair engineer here went down the rabbit hold of burst pressures. Because this could end up being a rally cool single shot air gun! Especially with the valve on top!
I found that the cans are rated for about 140psi with a burst pressure of about 200psi, so charging to 100psi should be good! What I didn't know was the importance of the solder joint itself. 50/50 tin-lead has a relatively low burst pressure of about 150 to 200psi; while 95/5 Tin-Antimony rates between 300 and 500psi.
Keeping this in mind, this looks like a really cool way to recycle spray cans! I reckon just point the schrader valve out front just in case!
@@padraicbrown6718 You may also be interested in the 2 other videos I made were I pressurize them to failure.
I worry a little about air on top of a fuel, but I suppose you could use argon if you have a bottle for a mig welder. If your valve core gets eaten up by the solvent, you could try an hvac core - fits a standard schrader but is more chemical resistant and goes to higher pressure. You can get them off the ac system on junk cars. I may try this, but fill the can with my own atf/acetone mix.
I also worry about using compressed air to pressurize atop fuel. I advise against it, and definitely NEVER pressurize cans with straight Oxygen! Nitrogen (for filling tires) is available at some service stations. CO2 also works, and for some purposes, injecting some Butane would be a good way to pressurize. Using air also runs the risk of putting water into the can, which will rust through fairly quickly if there is any free Oxygen in the can.
My favorite DIY homemade concoction to replace the expensive liquids intended for breaking away stuck or rusted fasteners, is exactly a mix of either acetone or MEK and synthetic ATF+4, around half and half, but could vary between 60/40 to 40/60, depending on how fine or coarse are the stuck threads... Way better than "PB Blaster", "Liquiwrench", "Kroil", "Würth Rost-Off", and of course the very mediocre WD-40...
@alfredomarquez9777
Try adding some kerosene to the mix (I've seen it called Ed's Red before). I use 1:1:1 and it works a treat.
What's the atf/acetone mix for?
@@jamiepayne9801
Homemade Kroil
Congratulation for your techik! All the process as you showed is foolproof. Thank you for your solution. You know in my counrty here is so expensive the can sraying stuffs. So it is chanche for reusing the empty bottles.
Best regards from Hungary!
The way things are going in this world we will, sooner then later, need to know many hacks like this to survive what's coming. Be prepared.
Just a thought, since 99.99- - % of the people who may want to try this, but don’t have a lathe, I’m assuming the reason why you want to turn the valve down is to make more space for the solder. If that’s the case try chucking the valve in a drill and using a file or bench grinder turn the valve down and emery cloth to get the size you need.
Chuck it up in a drill and use a file .Brass is pretty soft . Good Luck
See my post on this, agree with what you say, neccessity is the "mother of invention"
Solder the valve body near the bottom side of the can, about an inch from the bottom rim. I have inadvertently melted the _Spray Valve On The Can_ before, and moving the new fill valve down and away, eliminated that problem . . for me. But, yes, this definitely works, . . surprisingly well. Nice video, very easy to understand and I can clearly see how you are doing it. That's my biggest problem with making videos, I don't get good b-roll, so it's difficult for people to understand me.
Thank you for a very neat way to salvage cans and save cash. I like it!
A rubber tire valve stem can be used to fill the can through the nozzle stem. Pull the nozzle off and use the valve stem just as you would if it was in a wheel. The rubber will seal against the can top an air will go in the stem of the can.
Great idea and video. FYI could use a large turkey injector to fill,
I have a can with an air valve that I ordered years ago. I use mine for WD40 too. I do get a tad nervous when pumping air into it, but no fireballs so far.
This king of out of the box is what 90% of the people lack, creativity left the chat
I use clear spray bottles for different lubes and penetrants. One thing Ive noticed with the clear bottles is how much certain liquids settle. WD40 is one that has a pearl jam like substance that settles on the bottom. It needs shaken before use or before pouring into another container such as the small bottle used to fill the aerosol cans. Just a tip!
Great video, please consider getting an air chuck with a lock so you can stand back while airing up the can. Not sure, but those cans are probably designed for single use and multiple refills may weaken them. 100 psi in a metal can is a bomb!
You should watch my other 2 videos where I pressurize them to failure.
Always wear safety glasses and other safety gear to protect your eyes and face if some solvent or other object happens to fly from the can!
Diesel is just as good for lubrication on rusty stuff, and a hell of a lot cheaper. WD40 is good for getting moisture out and protecting against on plug leads etc. But diesel is way more economical for everything else. And you don’t need to turn the valve down. 😁👍
top tip of today. . when you're filling it with compressed air do it in an inflation cage, that's what they call them in a commercial setting but a strong cardboard box with the lid closed will suffice, when they go bang the valves are like bullets ! !
let's be careful out there,
scary
I use a cardboard box and a clip on inflator and raise the pressure remotely at the regulator. For me the box was less about safety and more about cleanliness in case of a blow out
I've used a standard tire valve just to repressurize the can as WD 40 tends to lose pressure. Good video
Nicely done. A great, simple way of doing it.
I was just thinking about doing this for a full can of Blaster that lost its charge. Thanks for sharing
I like your method of doing this , thanks for sharing
We used to do this back in the day with old r22/r12refrigerant tanks. They worked great to inflate tires. The cans would rust on the inside because of the moisture in the air. Then they would explode killing people. The government shutdown the reusing of the cans as a result of the injured and deaths. They made the companies incorporate features to stop them from being refilled.
Luckily the inside of spray cans are coated to prevent rusting.
Liar.
@@Look_What_You_Did WOW, why dont you cut one open and look. Even the inside of soda cans are coated because the carbonic acid, phosphoric acid and citric acid would corrode the can without it.
Thanks for the comment and helping the TH-cam Algorithm.
Awesome idea! Will try it on my can of WD -40.
Thank you!
Aloha! 🤙
That's the way to combat these cans that seem to have half the product in the can, and no propellant! THX!
YOU HAVE " WAY TOO MUCH TIME ON YOUR HANDS " BUT I STILL LOVE YOUR IDEA .
@michael: he just likes saving 41 cents an ounce.
Styx approves of this message
SORRY TO HAVE TO SAY THIS, BUT YOU ARE ONE OF THE MILLIONS OF PEOPLE THAT THINK THAT WAY. HERE IS AN EYE OPENER FOR YOU SOME PEOPLE EAT TO LIVE AND SOME LIVE TO EAT. BY THE SAME TOKEN SOME WORK TO LIVE AND SOME LIVE TO WORK. IF YOU LIVE TO WORK YOU ARE MISSING OUT ON THE EXTRA FREE TIME FOR YOURSELF, FAMILY, FRIENDS AND OTHERS YOU WILL NEVER MEET OR GIVE HELP TOO WHEN THEY NEED IT MORE THAN YOU KNOW. PS I CURRENTLY LIVE TO WORK.
@@kevinwilson9776 Is your caps lock broken to the on position or are you shouting on purpose? This is offensive on the internet .... a breach of netiquette. Both Michael and Keven should stop this crap.
@@kevinwilson9776 ALL CAPS are rude and a breach of netiquette. You are YELLING at us. It is rude!
Some rattle cans have a nice quality spray tip on them where you can change the pattern from vertical to sideways, so you can actually filll that with automotive paint and do the door jambs of your car and smaller areas easily and cheaply nice idea, one thing I would try to add is a gauge to measure how much pressure you are putting in the can to keep safe and consistent, I also would put that Schrader valve on the bottom of the can, mainly because if that pops off somebody can lose an eye or something else that's near and dear to them if it pops off the bottom it might hit one of your toes or something.,my bad I saw you addressed the problem but you could fashion a little safety loop that fits over the top that doesn't interfere with you spraying to keep you safe from that thing ever popping off you can even make one cutting up another can it only has to stop the initial inertia to work, that thing would fly off of there like a pellet gun I wouldn't want my face in front of it.
Wow that's so easy! Now all I need to refill my $6 cans is a $1500 lathe!
Better start saving my cans!
Actually, the lathe I used is $6000. I put a link in the description so you can order one.
@@737mechanic im sure that will be very helpful
@@e343balla LOL, I try.
you dont actually need a $6000 lathe or even a $1500 one. You can cut the valves off old bike or car/tractor tubes, whatever, and while there may not be a convenient flange to seat it in the can as long as you make the hole a neat fit and carefully position the valve no problem, I have not in NZ seen the valves for sale here, but they might be. And if you are desperate you could put a valve in your drill press and use a file to carefully machine a "step" for easier positioning.
One can pretest the air pressure the way Plumbers and Steamfitters test gas pipe.
Just make a fitting that has a PSI gauge on it put some soapy water in your can and inflate to pressure and let sit overnight and
if it holds the same PSI and no leaks your good to go!
The soapy water will tell you where the leaks if any are as well!
after that drain rinse out and let the can dry out as well
If the rated PSI is 100Psi on the can, I'd use 75 PSI on it for safety reasons and your not over stressing the can! you can always add some air if needed. Id use a dip straw as well to tell you the level of fluid is in the can as well!
No drilling, just a lathe...
Thank you for sharing this great money saving tip. I am curious as to where you acquired the plastic 3oz squeeze bottle with miniature nozzle. perhaps you could include a link in the description. Well done.
I thought I had them in there but thank you for pointing that out.
amzn.to/4bkKTc8
Thanks from Australia well done
You definitely want the shraeder valve on the top.If you place the shraeder valve below the fluid level any solvent in the can could begin to dissolve the rubber seal in the valve leading to valve failure and a pressurized mess.
This mod also allows you to store/transport your cans unpressurized (ie air freight), use specific pressure settings or even make you own custom blends. DW40 + CRC 5.56 blend? Sacrilege to suggest adulterating DW40?
I would suggest not air freight or any professional freight for an altered pressure vessel.
I am not sure what the fine would be but it something I do not want to find out.
Well, I suppose if you can do this to a starting fluid can without an explosion that makes you a bonnet out of it, we should be able to do it on about anything else. 😂😂
I was a little concerned about this too
Wow.... I didn't know you could solder a steel can with a normal solder, I though you need a silver solder and high heat. For some reason I tried to solder 3/16 copper tube together with one a larger connecting tube in between using torch and it still managed not to work even though I used flux (the one for normal electronics soldering). Maybe the torch was too much? I never though a solder iron would work so well. This is great idea, in fact I wonder if I can do this to make a refillable CO2 blow can. Those things have gotten so expensive but are so useful to clean dust from computers and spilled powder from my reloading press.
be careful CO2 has a lot of pressure. You can look at a pressure temperature chart online someplace .
I agree on not drilling the cans, eventually some small crap will get inside and clog it up.
I just use brass tips made for installing brass threaded inserts into plastic, they are made for the soldering irons that use a sleeve and collar nut where tip slides onto the ceramic heater. Can get them single size or in sets. Those style of irons are really the only ones that have a standard tip design, I highly recommend that style since so many companies make tip accesories for them far cheaper than Weller sells their normal soldering tips for. Making one for an iron where the tip threads on can be brand specific.
Yes, you DO need a lathe. And a milling machine. And a TIG.
My other car nut friends don't really agree.
Guess who gets asked to do welding, turning, and milling regularly?
If you don't have that stuff, you're a "replacer", No? (Hopefully with good diagnostic skills.)
well said brother. well said.
@@bryanbeddingfield5489I agree. I only have a mini lathe but the amount of things I've made and repaired with it over the years, I sure wouldn't want to be without it now. I'd love an AC/DC TIG to tackle aluminium but they are expensive to buy and it's a real skill to master I know. I have a MIG and stick welder for the other metals so kind of get by.
There's not much you can do with a lathe or a mill that you cannot do with a file and some determination. Is it practical for someone who is spoiled with a lathe and mill, no. If you own a wood splitter you're not going to split a seasons worth of wood with an ax, but if not, you don't have to freeze to death.
To scrape a little bit of brass off with a file would probably take half the time that the rest of the project takes. Probably half the time setting up and turning down.
It doesn't take a Skin-o-matic 5000 to skin a cat either, there's a bunch of ways.
@@ricoloco2803 I was that guy, struggled with a file etc to get the job done, then I bought a lathe and mill and learned how to use them, that in itself is satisfying. At the end of the day, the moto 'right tool for the right job' applies for good reason.
@@ricoloco2803 How long would it take you to "Machine" a 5/8ths keyway in a solid 6" stainless shaft ? Thanks, you sound very knowledgeable, and talented.
A conical drill bit or bur run in reverse can deform a nice concave hole. Using a standard fitting it can be force threaded tightly into that hole (pliershelp). Screwing it in with some quick-set epoxy (surfaces gotta be CLEAN of oil), will seal it for years.
Very nice demo. Will do the same, thanks.
That’s a pretty good idea. I thought the solder iron mod was brilliant! I think only thing I would do differently is use dry nitrogen to charge the can. I happen to have that handy I know not everyone does tho. That may help mitigate any problems with moisture and bacteria in the can over time.
What is wet nitrogen?
They can pick up a "bag" of dry nitrogen same time they are out buying the lathe:)
I'm aspiring to be assisting in enhancing your TH-cam algorithm, I have subscribed, liked, and I am actively watching and commenting from Quakertown, Pennsylvania, USA.
You're awesome dude. Hopefully, you can find more entertaining videos.
Great idea and method! Technically you could just hacksaw the end off, use a dremel or pedestal grinder or even angle grinder to make a step (measure with vernier caliper until near enough the size you want, doesn't even have to be in the middle) then solder that on. Solder will fill any gaps assuming it won't be perfectly round. If this is going to be accessible to all people there needs to be a way to do it with less specialised tools/adapters so see if you can work out a more 'ghetto' way and do another video on it, thanks!!
Exactly, you would be surprised how many people think because I used a lathe, they are completely out of luck in doing this but with a little imagination there are other ways to achieve the same outcome.
@@737mechanic Pity I didn't know about this years ago. Now retired but I worked as a cnc programmer/machinist and could have made 100,000 of those things in an hour hehe! One of my machines even had 2 chucks so I could have done work parts on one side and 'home' parts on the other side hehe!
Good stuff, thanks for sharing!!!
Best video on this that I have seen. Thank you!
I'd buy 4 of em!
email me mechanic737@hotmail.com
@@737mechanichow muck for 4 and the solder fitting
I did this a couple years ago using an old rubber valve from a car wheel cause you can cut off the rubber and it is brass inside, don't need to cut down other than that.
Only problem is that when i fill it there is a problem with getting it in there cause the air needs to come out as the liquid goes in and it is more difficult than shown here.
When my WD 40 can is empty I'll do it with that one.
Thanks.
Wow this is a heaps good way to clean up the gene pool, keep up the good work!!!
😢😢
Also attach a pill bottle to the can shelf to put all your different plastic spray straws in. There's about 3 sizes I've found.
For about the same price as a few schrader valves, I could instead buy a few good quality chemical spray bottles that work better and are safe, easy to fill/maintain, more reliable/robust, and even clear so I can see the content levels. I'll save my shop time for innovations that actually outperform off-the-shelf solutions (in cost if nothing else) so I can feel like my effort and time are actually worth something.
That sounds great for you.
Or buy a "Sure-Shot" refillable aerosol can from Grainger, or McMaster-Carr, heck, maybe even Harbor Freight sells them.
I absolutely love the idea and i would do it, but in the interest of safety and not wanting anyone's father getting hurt, i would suggest that if the can is rated at aprox 100psi, i wouldnt pressurize it to no more than 75, 80 psi. these cans arent meant to withstand the stress of repressurizing them so eventually they could potentially fail if you are pushing them to their original limits. you dont want to be holding it at 100 psi when it decides to fail. much better to have to keep adding air every so often than taking a trip to the ER. Stay safe guys
ok chris, you win. How much for 14,000 machined brass tractor tire valve casings? lmmfao
Necessity is the mother of invention, for sure. That said, for those that do not have the time, the skills, or a lathe... "refillable pressure sprayer cansisters" are available for doing the same thing that was shown in the video.