I just wanna comment, thanks for all your content my guy 🙏 your tutorial on audio is super helpful and had inspired me to be creative in the recording process when it comes to my personal projects. Keep being awesome!
I think it looked great. I usually drip it in with a brush and don't worry much about keeping it in the lines. Usually, you can dip a Q-tip in lacquer thinner or mineral spirits and rub it around the edges to dress it right up.
Great idea Andrew, but I wonder whether the temperature was a little high in the baking? 325 degrees F is well above boiling - perhaps causing the slight bubbling? I don't know but I wonder whether low baking for paint around 180-200 F might be sufficient? But a top tip about the injection painting!
That's a good point! I hadn't thought about how thinning the paint might affect the temperature it would handle. Guess I thought the extra water content would evaporate as it dried. This is what I meant when I said I don't know enough about paint :D
U can now put on top of the red some clear coat to give depth, same method. Just an idea ahh take one that have uv resistance, red.tends to fade in the sun
Maybe! I think I'll see how it holds up by itself. If it eventually starts to fade or flake out, that will give me an excuse to do it again with a better quality paint that won't bubble. Initially it seems pretty durable though.
@@AndrewDoesCarStuff yes, its durable, in fact water based colours on itself are more durable then oil based because they will become plastic basicly but the oil based are more sticky and easier to remove because any solvent will melt it, water based once it cures its over, but the issue is even they are durable in aluminium nothing sticks much only with primer, at least you scratched it will remain in place for some years i guess, you can get good paint in toysrus for medeling and they are cheap and have all the shades you ever need and primers and all kinds brand is... revell. Btw thats for the videos i have a manta that i have to restore its in the shed alredy for more then 15 years but life gets in the way... After i raise my kid then ill have time to do it but i learned alot, if u ever find youself in Portugal or in Croatia since i live in both countries (wife is croatian) send me a messege and if you need anything count on me even if is just for a beer. Cheers
@@diogolourenco60 Good info about the paint, thanks for that! Maybe I should have done a coat of primer with the needle, that would be an interesting experiment. Next time! And thanks for the kind words, I hope you get a chance to finish your Manta and enjoy it. It would be fun to visit some Mantas in Europe sometime.
Cool technique, and one probably adaptable to building scale models. I owned a ‘73 Opal Manta myself, the Rallye model. It was a great little car, and I wish I still had it. 😢 3:58
Probably true! And they are still out there and fairly cheap in the US, but good luck finding a good one. Mine is kind of a fake Rallye (originally a Luxus as you could see by the emblems)
Nice video Andrew! I will definitely use this technique for my emblem, looks great! Might put black in it so it's not red on red or use the same 2K paint I have left over from the respray. Cool filming and nice content! Looking forward to the next one. Take care ! :)
Thanks Metod! I borrowed a nice macro lens for this one, which was fun. I like your idea, black emblems would look great on red. Maybe leave the spaces between the letters silver? Or, using your same red color could look cool too. Tough choice!
Hi Andrew, Klever way of painting. I owned a '75 Manta berlinetta in the early eighties here in the Netherlands. It had a little aluminum manta ray at the lower part of the front fender behind the wheel and not the word MANTA as on your car. Maybe this was only for the American market. By the way, KONI is a Dutch manufasturer of high end shock absotbers.
Nice! I like those little manta ray emblems better. You are correct, we didn't get those in the US. Maybe they thought it was more important to spell out the name, so people would know what it was.
To some extent, sure! The problem is, there are so many tight corners and small areas that a buffing wheel couldn't reach. Also, polishing compound would build up in these areas and probably be tricky to clean up. I was thinking maybe something like a vibrating tumbler with some fine polishing media would be pretty good for something like this.
A good buffing wheel with a fine compound or even just a polish would get in all those crevices easily. But if you don't have one just put metal polish and a cloth and rub it around for a minute. You will be suprised how good that will work. Maas metal polish is my go to. The stuff works on anything.
So far it's still holding strong over a year later! I haven't purposefully tried to scratch it off, but it's survived car washes and lots of temperature changes without any issues.
Nice. Gonna try this.
I just wanna comment, thanks for all your content my guy 🙏 your tutorial on audio is super helpful and had inspired me to be creative in the recording process when it comes to my personal projects. Keep being awesome!
That's really nice of you to say, thank you! Helps keep me motivated.
Interesting idea. I'm going to give it a shot. Subscribed.
I think it looked great. I usually drip it in with a brush and don't worry much about keeping it in the lines. Usually, you can dip a Q-tip in lacquer thinner or mineral spirits and rub it around the edges to dress it right up.
That's cool, though I do like having less cleanup! What kind of paint have you had success with?
@@AndrewDoesCarStuff all kinds, hobby grade paints are best, but I've even used fingernail polish.
Great idea Andrew, but I wonder whether the temperature was a little high in the baking? 325 degrees F is well above boiling - perhaps causing the slight bubbling? I don't know but I wonder whether low baking for paint around 180-200 F might be sufficient? But a top tip about the injection painting!
That's a good point! I hadn't thought about how thinning the paint might affect the temperature it would handle. Guess I thought the extra water content would evaporate as it dried. This is what I meant when I said I don't know enough about paint :D
U can now put on top of the red some clear coat to give depth, same method. Just an idea ahh take one that have uv resistance, red.tends to fade in the sun
Maybe! I think I'll see how it holds up by itself. If it eventually starts to fade or flake out, that will give me an excuse to do it again with a better quality paint that won't bubble. Initially it seems pretty durable though.
@@AndrewDoesCarStuff yes, its durable, in fact water based colours on itself are more durable then oil based because they will become plastic basicly but the oil based are more sticky and easier to remove because any solvent will melt it, water based once it cures its over, but the issue is even they are durable in aluminium nothing sticks much only with primer, at least you scratched it will remain in place for some years i guess, you can get good paint in toysrus for medeling and they are cheap and have all the shades you ever need and primers and all kinds brand is... revell. Btw thats for the videos i have a manta that i have to restore its in the shed alredy for more then 15 years but life gets in the way... After i raise my kid then ill have time to do it but i learned alot, if u ever find youself in Portugal or in Croatia since i live in both countries (wife is croatian) send me a messege and if you need anything count on me even if is just for a beer. Cheers
@@diogolourenco60 Good info about the paint, thanks for that! Maybe I should have done a coat of primer with the needle, that would be an interesting experiment. Next time! And thanks for the kind words, I hope you get a chance to finish your Manta and enjoy it. It would be fun to visit some Mantas in Europe sometime.
That looks really good brother.
Cool technique, and one probably adaptable to building scale models.
I owned a ‘73 Opal Manta myself, the Rallye model. It was a great little car, and I wish I still had it. 😢 3:58
Probably true! And they are still out there and fairly cheap in the US, but good luck finding a good one. Mine is kind of a fake Rallye (originally a Luxus as you could see by the emblems)
Nice video Andrew! I will definitely use this technique for my emblem, looks great! Might put black in it so it's not red on red or use the same 2K paint I have left over from the respray. Cool filming and nice content! Looking forward to the next one. Take care ! :)
Thanks Metod! I borrowed a nice macro lens for this one, which was fun. I like your idea, black emblems would look great on red. Maybe leave the spaces between the letters silver? Or, using your same red color could look cool too. Tough choice!
Nice video as always, thank you.
Will hold up a little better with a couple coats of 2k gloss clear. Stuff is great. 😊
So far it's still holding up well! I didn't want to clear over the aluminum, though that would probably work well.
Hi Andrew,
Klever way of painting. I owned a '75 Manta berlinetta in the early eighties here in the Netherlands.
It had a little aluminum manta ray at the lower part of the front fender behind the wheel and not the word MANTA as on your car.
Maybe this was only for the American market.
By the way, KONI is a Dutch manufasturer of high end shock absotbers.
Nice! I like those little manta ray emblems better. You are correct, we didn't get those in the US. Maybe they thought it was more important to spell out the name, so people would know what it was.
Had to do this on a 3800 engine from my 1992 Opel Rekord CD V6, used my mom's nail 💅 polish, still glossy years later.
Nice! I tried lacquer paint the last time, and as you can see, it didn't stick well. Maybe I just didn't prep well enough that time.
could you have polished the unpainted sections first on a cloth wheel to give it a chrome appearance ?
To some extent, sure! The problem is, there are so many tight corners and small areas that a buffing wheel couldn't reach. Also, polishing compound would build up in these areas and probably be tricky to clean up. I was thinking maybe something like a vibrating tumbler with some fine polishing media would be pretty good for something like this.
A good buffing wheel with a fine compound or even just a polish would get in all those crevices easily. But if you don't have one just put metal polish and a cloth and rub it around for a minute. You will be suprised how good that will work. Maas metal polish is my go to. The stuff works on anything.
Sad emblem syndrome 😂👍
And the only cure is a paint injection 😆
How was it when you tried to scratch the paint? Was it durable or did it come off?
So far it's still holding strong over a year later! I haven't purposefully tried to scratch it off, but it's survived car washes and lots of temperature changes without any issues.
B U B B L E S !!!!!
I wished I spoke whale. Lol