Thanks for the tutorial! I'll be trying this on my next build! To protect areas like edges and the marker lights, I plan to put a piece of painter's tape over those areas.
Perfect timing on this video. I am going to be building a car that doesn't include the decals for the emblems soon, and I had no idea how you did this. Thank you!
A great tutorial i use almost the same technique ,except i use a tamiya Q-tip dipped in thinner to remove the paint/primer,this technique works great on old vintage kits that no Photo etched is available.
Thanks for the tip, looks very nice. I noticed you rubbed your thumb over the emblem before applying the BMF, has the oil from your fingers caused any adhesion problems?
Great tutorial! I've heard of doing this but never seen any how too on it. I guess after the clearing process the lines from the foil get hidden. Thanks for sharing.
Enamel u can use a Qtip with the swab dampened in thinner & the Same with Lacquer just moistened not dripping wet or u will destroy the paint with Lacquer thinner squeeze it all out & rub over the top of the script. Just another method.
I have had an issue doing that in the past. I have had the foil lift up off the model during polishing. I think it was because it was too close to the edge and lifted. Having more of it under the paint seems to have helped but unsure as that has not happened in a while. But I don’t know if that was on a bad sheet of BMF as the quality has been all over the place in the past few years. I have had some sheets not stick well and some tear real easy but this sheet has been great.
It has been discovered. So I can’t get it anymore. I did buy the last bottle my local hobby shop had back then so I had 2 1/2 bottles on hand as I just found another 1/2 used bottle in my stash this weekend. So I was able to finish touching up the Cougar.
Awesome, saw someone else do this, I think it was Rob, but his method was a little bit different. I need one of those polishing cloths. Where did you get it, if you remember? Thanks for sharing this tip.
I have had an issue in the past. I used to cut them closer to the emblem but during polishing, had the foil let go and pull up from under the paint. So now I make sure to leave some under the paint and I also don’t put to much pressure on it when polishing.
I don't make videos or go to shows. I build for me, and what I have been doing for years is spray Alclad instead of BMF. Let it dry completely, then clear over it, spray body color, then remove to reveal the badge. I don't like lots of paint or clear build up and this results in more realistic thickness of paint / clear.
Thanks for sharing. That is definitely a different way of doing that. When I tried clear over Alclad, it made it more silver than chrome. Plus I like the real shiny over restored look myself.
Great idea!!!, could you use a Q-tip ( with the wax ) to really zero in on it? And if you really want to be anal retentive, you could use watered down putty around the BMF
Thanks for the tutorial! I'll be trying this on my next build! To protect areas like edges and the marker lights, I plan to put a piece of painter's tape over those areas.
You’re welcome. Protecting the edges is always a good idea.
Wow, I never thought of doing it that way, thank you very much.😊
It can come out nice!
Perfect timing on this video. I am going to be building a car that doesn't include the decals for the emblems soon, and I had no idea how you did this. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
Very nice tutorial. Definitely a very nice trick. This is something I will be using. Thanks for sharing.
Very welcome!
A great tutorial i use almost the same technique ,except i use a tamiya Q-tip dipped in thinner to remove the paint/primer,this technique works great on old vintage kits that no Photo etched is available.
Thanks. Be careful with the thinner. That could go too far to fast!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler barely dampen the swab and squeeze out excess. Safest way to do it.
Thanks for the tip, looks very nice. I noticed you rubbed your thumb over the emblem before applying the BMF, has the oil from your fingers caused any adhesion problems?
No. But I wash my hands a lot with Dawn soap. You may notice the dry knuckles.
Neat little tip thanks, I'm going to have to give it a try
Hope this helps you!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler yes it did an I'm going to give it a try
Really cool. Thanks was waiting on my foil to come in on my new build. Believe ill give this a try. Again thanks
It's worth trying. The results can be amazing but a learning curve it will be.
That was great!
Thanks.
Awesome tutorial video ❤ fabulous results 🍻🍻🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘
Thanks so much 😊
@@TheMuscleCarModeler your welcome 🙏 🤗
Thanks for the tip
No problem!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
That was cool. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the tutorial 😁😎
You’re welcome!
Great tip, sure Beats trying to letter with paint
Absolutely!
Thanks for the tutorial, Raoul. Not sure that would work for me. I rattle can all my builds with Tamiya currently.
No problem 👍. It is easier with air brushed paints.
Great tutorial! I've heard of doing this but never seen any how too on it. I guess after the clearing process the lines from the foil get hidden. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Yes the clear coat smooths it out some and will help hide it.
Good how to.great job
Thanks 👍
That’s crazy. So the edge of the BMF doesn’t need any unique prep to keep it from showing thru?
It shows up in some lighting but is buried in the clear.
Just curious....ever tried like maybe using sum thousand grit wet paper on em?
I like the rubbing compound. The sandpaper may be too aggressive for this. If you give it a try, make sure you stop and check often.
Enamel u can use a Qtip with the swab dampened in thinner
& the Same with Lacquer just moistened not dripping wet or u will destroy the paint with Lacquer thinner squeeze it all out & rub over the top of the script.
Just another method.
Would it be improved if one trimmed around each letter, at least in a case of such large block letters?
I have had an issue doing that in the past. I have had the foil lift up off the model during polishing. I think it was because it was too close to the edge and lifted. Having more of it under the paint seems to have helped but unsure as that has not happened in a while. But I don’t know if that was on a bad sheet of BMF as the quality has been all over the place in the past few years. I have had some sheets not stick well and some tear real easy but this sheet has been great.
Oh. also, where were you able to find that Testors green color? Thanks
It has been discovered. So I can’t get it anymore. I did buy the last bottle my local hobby shop had back then so I had 2 1/2 bottles on hand as I just found another 1/2 used bottle in my stash this weekend. So I was able to finish touching up the Cougar.
Awesome, saw someone else do this, I think it was Rob, but his method was a little bit different. I need one of those polishing cloths. Where did you get it, if you remember? Thanks for sharing this tip.
I think these were Walmart items. Microfiber polishing cloth. I believe it was in the automotive section. It'd been a while.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler Thanks, I'll have a look and see what I can find. At least I know what they are, shouldn't be that hard to locate.
thanks a lot for this great video
You are welcome!
Could you use a Dremel with a polishing bit on slow to do that or would it get to hot? Also how did you not rub the paint off around the word?
That I don't know. I don't have a Drexel.
I would think that it would work, just be extremely careful
Very nice.
Thank you
Cool tip 🤘on
Glad you liked it!
Hi.
Why don't you cut between each of the letters?
I have had an issue in the past. I used to cut them closer to the emblem but during polishing, had the foil let go and pull up from under the paint. So now I make sure to leave some under the paint and I also don’t put to much pressure on it when polishing.
I don't make videos or go to shows. I build for me, and what I have been doing for years is spray Alclad instead of BMF. Let it dry completely, then clear over it, spray body color, then remove to reveal the badge. I don't like lots of paint or clear build up and this results in more realistic thickness of paint / clear.
Thanks for sharing. That is definitely a different way of doing that. When I tried clear over Alclad, it made it more silver than chrome. Plus I like the real shiny over restored look myself.
Great idea!!!, could you use a Q-tip ( with the wax ) to really zero in on it? And if you really want to be anal retentive, you could use watered down putty around the BMF
Thanks. You probably could use a Q tip.
Sorry, should have watched all the way through. Just another obsessive modeler
LOL!