Thanks Jacob for such a logical way to play, especially if you want to spend time at the table. If there is a decent roll I might look to take down some profit, but otherwise very interesting. Back to the tables (some day)!
Came across this one in your archives. I don’t know if you originated this or you saw it elsewhere but I have to tell you it is strategically sound. Almost brilliant. After mitigating my exposure, I think I would do a collect and press at some point take some profit out instead of odds on the seven. Since this is a two year old video, if you want to do the craps community a big favor, I would re-publish this one. It looks like a winner to me. Eddie on the money
Hi Jacob. Great explanation.. So by placing the point. you do take away your 7 winner in my view.. But you cant have it both ways.. So I think table temp is what I learned from you.. SO I would say sometimes let it ride , but sometimes placing that point so you cant lose is also a good tool to have... I know for me I have been away from the tables for a long time now.. So hopefully I can process all your tolls and ways fast enough...LOL
Another great video to put our thinking caps on. Very similar to how I have been having success. I’ve been running a $200 DP then 5 units on the remaining box numbers. If DP is an even number, buy the hardway to cover most of the $200 with the 1st hit. Then rack 3-5 hits, whatever you like. Usually only 3 hits max if 6-8 is DP. Turn bets off. If even numbered DP, take down the hardway. Then I place the DP number for a guaranteed profit. Say it’s a 6/8, place the 6/8 for $186. If a 5/9 buy it for (Biloxi buy is auto) $160 pays $230 and if 4/10 buy it for $130-40 whichever you choose. Those 3-5 hits paying $35 minimum add up, much like the ABT. What I like is when 7 comes you win about $60-70 depending on the DP number.
@craps hack I like it! 90% of your risk is on the unprotected COME OUT with $200 sitting there while your cheeks are clenched! establish a point and you can go to work on em with real quick while relatively protected.
I"ve been using this system pretty regularly since i first tried it a while back, honestly its probably the most consistent strategy i've used either you end the night down a few bucks or you get a few good rollers throughout the day and walk away with a decent profit, nice comp points, and a good amount of free drinks. cheers.
I have to say that I tried this tonight. I bought in for $500. It was going so so. Then a guy got on a monster roll for probably at least 20 rolls. I quit before he 7d out and walked with $902 after tips. So I made about $400. Only saw this video once today. Practiced it at home and got crushed. So I said I wasnt going to play it. After getting crushed at the casino with another one I tried your. Glad I did. Thanks for the video.
Great video, just a question with the growing the 7 with odds. Wouldn’t it make more sense to reduce what you have on your place bet. It would be a better pay out right? 1:1 vs true odds. 1:
(2 of 3) If a 7 hits before the point, I obviously win $25. If the point hits again before the 7, I lose $25. But instead of starting over, I start doing a progression of direct lays until the 7 hits. At my local casino we have a $25 min/$2,000 max table. The way I set up my progression, the 6 or 8 would have to be rolled EIGHT times before the 7 to lose your entire bankroll. The 5 or 9 would have to be rolled SEVEN times before a 7 hits to go bankrupt and the 4 or 10 would have to be rolled SIX times before the 7 hits to go bankrupt. Only use this on random shooters.(continued)
I like the concept. Only thing I would do differently would be to reduce my place be on the point as opposed to laying odds on the DP to make the 7 more valuable. Why risk more? Thanks for the video!
Jacob, can you do this Dont Pass and do the Iron Cross? And whatever number is the point, also protect the dont pass by placing that number. I like that you can put odds on the dont pass to help with more protection. If I start out with a $100 dont, how much do I need to put on the 5,6,8 and field, and also how much on the point to protect the dont? Thanks
Good vid! Side note...how about reducing your initial Don’t bet to table min, once your playing with house money. As long as you are at table minimum on the Don’t, as a shooter, you could use the money for higher place bets or just keep it in your rack. Just a thought. Hedge against a loss, until you’re playing with house money...
You have an advantage even if the DP is the 6 or 8, that's way the house lets you take it down. If you really want to take it down, the better play would be to place the same amount of money on the point. If the 7 rolls, it's a wash just as if you would have taken it down, if the number actually hits you win a little.
@@MWLS1 IF you take it down or minimize it, you can use the money for a bigger place bet somewhere without it costing you any more. You way of placing the number is good too...just a little more money out there that’s not ‘optimized’. But, that’s what makes Craps the best game in the house...many, many ways to play it.
Yes it was a good example of this play. I played this from time to time until I moved to a place where they didn't allow a place and don't on the same number.... bastards. How often do you actually use this one? Thanks Jacob, keep 'em coming.
So it seems like the goal of this "strategy"(not sure if it is technically a strategy) is to get to the point where you have a bet on every number to take advantage of a potential long roll with little to no risk. Trying to figure out which path makes sense for each scenario once you make it to the point where everything in play is "free". Scenario A: You haven't build up your profit at all(still early in the day/night): Get to "free play" on the board, then only add hits to bankroll(no pressing or maybe early half presses)? Repeat until you've built up profit. Scenario B: You have a healthy amount of profit to play with(later in the day/night): Get to "free play" on the board, press everything(or half presses) until roll [X](is there a "good" point/multiple of original bet/roll at where you should stop pressing?), AND/OR start doing what you did there where you add to the dont pass odds on every roll(at which point do you stop doing this?)? OR because you already have profit there is no reason to add to the don't pass and you're literally just doing this for every roller in the hopes that you eventually hit a really long one? i.e. where you would make some real money. I'm assuming the answer is tied to what your goals are/bank roll is and what you feel comfortable with. I guess i'm just trying to understand what would make sense with this specific strategy from a logic point of view to guide my decision making. Sorry that was so long.
I like this but maybe laying 10 or 4 on come out every once in a while to protect the DP from the 7 or maybe just laying a couple of bucks on the hop 7's. This is very similar to DGE but he turns off after one or two hits.
(1 of 3) (Bankroll $3,700) We all know that once a DC bet moves behind a number, the player mathematically has the advantage. The problem is making sure the house advantage is as small as possible during the come out. Ask yourself the following question.... What occurs less often, throwing a 3-1 (4), or throwing consecutive 3-1 (4's)? The answer is bviously the latter. So here's what I do. On a random shooter, I wait for a 3-1 (4) to be thrown. Once it is, I then put $25 on the DC, I lay $70 on the "no 4", and I bet $10 on the hard 4. Since the hard 4 doesn't hurt me, and the 7 doesn't hurt me, only consecutive 3-1 (4's) hurt me. The 11 also hurts me, but 2's and 3's will even that out. This also works for the 6-4 (10). When my DC gets behind a number, i take down my lay bet and my hardway bet. (Continued)
after making a couple hits on the 6,8 how about taking thosenumbers down where u are at a math disadvantage[ youve made a profit,any profit good on a disadvantaged bet in my eyes ] and just roll until completion the dp point ,where u are the favorite ....... do that session aftersession think u make out better doing that as always thanks for the great vids DDP1
I think specifically on those 5/9 points, where you're placing them for 35 to reduce/eliminate exposure, you should be buying them for 34. I know it's a small thing, but I'm a little OCD so there's that. 🤣
@@jimklemens5018 sure it does. Placed for 35, it pays 49. Bought for 34, it pays 51. Gives you the $1 vig to go to $50 and the bet itself. In addition to just making $2 extra. Again, it's a little thing but it works.
@EdwardRAZRhands A $34 Buy bet on the 5 or 9 requires a $2 vig to be paid upfront, so your $51 payout is actually $49. Also, the house edge on a Buy bet on the 5 or 9 is 4.76%. The house edge on a Place bet on the 5 or 9 is 4%.
@@jimklemens5018 not where I'm from in Iowa. It's only $1 up to a $39 bet. $40 & up is $2. Guess you would have to determine by breakpoints. And I wasn't taking edge into the equation, only the fact that with it like I stated, you only invest $34 to realize $51 vs $2 less for another dollar's invest. If you figure it your way tho, yes you're correct.
Kind of annoyed that more people don't just accept this as A strategy. I've run this a few times at home and ended up on the plus side each time. It's not the be all end all, but it's a good, conservative approach.
This was the most confusing thing I have seen in a long time. You didn't clearly state the wagers. You forgot to collect on a wager. Y You put chips up without telling the amounts. How are we supposed to figure it out unless we are math experts....
Very good explanation on how to reduce the risk while playing at craps table.
Thanks Jacob for such a logical way to play, especially if you want to spend time at the table. If there is a decent roll I might look to take down some profit, but otherwise very interesting. Back to the tables (some day)!
Great video, thanks Jacob!
Another good video but it’s an even better simple explanation and demonstration of the strategy and how to make it work
Came across this one in your archives. I don’t know if you originated this or you saw it elsewhere but I have to tell you it is strategically sound. Almost brilliant. After mitigating my exposure, I think I would do a collect and press at some point take some profit out instead of odds on the seven.
Since this is a two year old video, if you want to do the craps community a big favor, I would re-publish this one. It looks like a winner to me.
Eddie on the money
Hi Jacob. Great explanation.. So by placing the point. you do take away your 7 winner in my view.. But you cant have it both ways.. So I think table temp is what I learned from you.. SO I would say sometimes let it ride , but sometimes placing that point so you cant lose is also a good tool to have... I know for me I have been away from the tables for a long time now.. So hopefully I can process all your tolls and ways fast enough...LOL
Another great video to put our thinking caps on. Very similar to how I have been having success. I’ve been running a $200 DP then 5 units on the remaining box numbers. If DP is an even number, buy the hardway to cover most of the $200 with the 1st hit. Then rack 3-5 hits, whatever you like. Usually only 3 hits max if 6-8 is DP. Turn bets off. If even numbered DP, take down the hardway. Then I place the DP number for a guaranteed profit. Say it’s a 6/8, place the 6/8 for $186. If a 5/9 buy it for (Biloxi buy is auto) $160 pays $230 and if 4/10 buy it for $130-40 whichever you choose. Those 3-5 hits paying $35 minimum add up, much like the ABT. What I like is when 7 comes you win about $60-70 depending on the DP number.
That's awesome
@craps hack I like it!
90% of your risk is on the unprotected COME OUT with $200 sitting there while your cheeks are clenched! establish a point and you can go to work on em with real quick while relatively protected.
I"ve been using this system pretty regularly since i first tried it a while back, honestly its probably the most consistent strategy i've used either you end the night down a few bucks or you get a few good rollers throughout the day and walk away with a decent profit, nice comp points, and a good amount of free drinks. cheers.
Your absolutely right about the side benefits of this strategy.
Jacob this is still a great strategy. Simple, effective.
I have to say that I tried this tonight. I bought in for $500. It was going so so. Then a guy got on a monster roll for probably at least 20 rolls. I quit before he 7d out and walked with $902 after tips. So I made about $400.
Only saw this video once today. Practiced it at home and got crushed. So I said I wasnt going to play it. After getting crushed at the casino with another one I tried your. Glad I did. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video.
Great video, just a question with the growing the 7 with odds. Wouldn’t it make more sense to reduce what you have on your place bet. It would be a better pay out right? 1:1 vs true odds. 1:
(2 of 3) If a 7 hits before the point, I obviously win $25. If the point hits again before the 7, I lose $25. But instead of starting over, I start doing a progression of direct lays until the 7 hits. At my local casino we have a $25 min/$2,000 max table.
The way I set up my progression, the 6 or 8 would have to be rolled EIGHT times before the 7 to lose your entire bankroll. The 5 or 9 would have to be rolled SEVEN times before a 7 hits to go bankrupt and the 4 or 10 would have to be rolled SIX times before the 7 hits to go bankrupt. Only use this on random shooters.(continued)
What's the difference between a random and any other kind of shooter ? Aren't they all random ?
I like the concept. Only thing I would do differently would be to reduce my place be on the point as opposed to laying odds on the DP to make the 7 more valuable. Why risk more? Thanks for the video!
I like that
Jacob, can you do this Dont Pass and do the Iron Cross? And whatever number is the point, also protect the dont pass by placing that number. I like that you can put odds on the dont pass to help with more protection.
If I start out with a $100 dont, how much do I need to put on the 5,6,8 and field, and also how much on the point to protect the dont? Thanks
Good vid! Side note...how about reducing your initial Don’t bet to table min, once your playing with house money. As long as you are at table minimum on the Don’t, as a shooter, you could use the money for higher place bets or just keep it in your rack. Just a thought. Hedge against a loss, until you’re playing with house money...
You have an advantage even if the DP is the 6 or 8, that's way the house lets you take it down. If you really want to take it down, the better play would be to place the same amount of money on the point. If the 7 rolls, it's a wash just as if you would have taken it down, if the number actually hits you win a little.
@@MWLS1 IF you take it down or minimize it, you can use the money for a bigger place bet somewhere without it costing you any more. You way of placing the number is good too...just a little more money out there that’s not ‘optimized’. But, that’s what makes Craps the best game in the house...many, many ways to play it.
You should never remove or reduce a Don't Pass bet after the point is made.
Yes it was a good example of this play. I played this from time to time until I moved to a place where they didn't allow a place and don't on the same number.... bastards. How often do you actually use this one? Thanks Jacob, keep 'em coming.
I normally dont worry about the dont, so I just let it go as is. But I know people worry about the do t so this is a way to minimize it
So it seems like the goal of this "strategy"(not sure if it is technically a strategy) is to get to the point where you have a bet on every number to take advantage of a potential long roll with little to no risk.
Trying to figure out which path makes sense for each scenario once you make it to the point where everything in play is "free".
Scenario A: You haven't build up your profit at all(still early in the day/night): Get to "free play" on the board, then only add hits to bankroll(no pressing or maybe early half presses)? Repeat until you've built up profit.
Scenario B: You have a healthy amount of profit to play with(later in the day/night): Get to "free play" on the board, press everything(or half presses) until roll [X](is there a "good" point/multiple of original bet/roll at where you should stop pressing?), AND/OR start doing what you did there where you add to the dont pass odds on every roll(at which point do you stop doing this?)?
OR because you already have profit there is no reason to add to the don't pass and you're literally just doing this for every roller in the hopes that you eventually hit a really long one? i.e. where you would make some real money.
I'm assuming the answer is tied to what your goals are/bank roll is and what you feel comfortable with. I guess i'm just trying to understand what would make sense with this specific strategy from a logic point of view to guide my decision making. Sorry that was so long.
Very nice
Good commentary explaining Coach
Thanks Larry
I like this but maybe laying 10 or 4 on come out every once in a while to protect the DP from the 7 or maybe just laying a couple of bucks on the hop 7's. This is very similar to DGE but he turns off after one or two hits.
Yeah, DGE and I think similar thoughts about craps.
(1 of 3) (Bankroll $3,700) We all know that once a DC bet moves behind a number, the player mathematically has the advantage. The problem is making sure the house advantage is as small as possible during the come out. Ask yourself the following question.... What occurs less often, throwing a 3-1 (4), or throwing consecutive 3-1 (4's)?
The answer is bviously the latter. So here's what I do. On a random shooter, I wait for a 3-1 (4) to be thrown. Once it is, I then put $25 on the DC, I lay $70 on the "no 4", and I bet $10 on the hard 4. Since the hard 4 doesn't hurt me, and the 7 doesn't hurt me, only consecutive 3-1 (4's) hurt me. The 11 also hurts me, but 2's and 3's will even that out. This also works for the 6-4 (10).
When my DC gets behind a number, i take down my lay bet and my hardway bet. (Continued)
That's a Great Way to play. My friend Charlie at Drunk Guy Explains Craps does something very similar
I like it
What about putting 36 on the 6 and 8. When you hit reduce the bet by half and you have your coverage.
Sure if you like that. Cuts the profit on the 7 tho
after making a couple hits on the 6,8 how about taking thosenumbers down where u are at a math disadvantage[ youve made a profit,any profit good on a disadvantaged bet in my eyes ] and just roll until completion the dp point ,where u are the favorite ....... do that session aftersession think u make out better doing that as always thanks for the great vids DDP1
Taking down 10 combos of probability doesnt seem to make more over time, you would miss those wins
great video. how would you run this system on a $25 table minimum? would you do a $60 on DP or $75?
I think specifically on those 5/9 points, where you're placing them for 35 to reduce/eliminate exposure, you should be buying them for 34. I know it's a small thing, but I'm a little OCD so there's that. 🤣
It doesn't make any sense to make a Buy bet on the 5 or 9.
@@jimklemens5018 sure it does. Placed for 35, it pays 49. Bought for 34, it pays 51. Gives you the $1 vig to go to $50 and the bet itself. In addition to just making $2 extra. Again, it's a little thing but it works.
@EdwardRAZRhands A $34 Buy bet on the 5 or 9 requires a $2 vig to be paid upfront, so your $51 payout is actually $49.
Also, the house edge on a Buy bet on the 5 or 9 is 4.76%.
The house edge on a Place bet on the 5 or 9 is 4%.
@@jimklemens5018 not where I'm from in Iowa. It's only $1 up to a $39 bet. $40 & up is $2. Guess you would have to determine by breakpoints. And I wasn't taking edge into the equation, only the fact that with it like I stated, you only invest $34 to realize $51 vs $2 less for another dollar's invest. If you figure it your way tho, yes you're correct.
@@Hawksforever99 All of the casinos in Nevada will charge a $1 vig up to a $25 bet.
And lots of casinos in Nevada won't allow a Buy bet on the 5 or 9.
Kind of annoyed that more people don't just accept this as A strategy. I've run this a few times at home and ended up on the plus side each time. It's not the be all end all, but it's a good, conservative approach.
It's killing me when you put Place bets inside the box and they look like Come bets.
Those are buy bets. Its how they do the 4 and 10 when you buy them
@@wagermethis I thought the dealers put a Buy button on a Buy bet.
@@jimklemens5018 they do, but they usually move the chips into the box just a little
Every time I hear you say that you could take it down for profit, I cringe, because it seems that always brings the 7!
Lol
This was the most confusing thing I have seen in a long time. You didn't clearly state the wagers. You forgot to collect on a wager. Y
You put chips up without telling the amounts. How are we supposed to figure it out unless we are math experts....
Watch some more of Jacob's videos, play craps at a live table for 20 or 30 hours, and you will know what he is betting.
Why not just take down the don't
Because the dont wins on the 7