Hi David, Enjoyed your video and you made me laugh. I'm old and retired. I made of bunch of curved inlay jewelry boxes years ago and some curved inlay table tops. I wanted to go back and make a few more but forgot all the steps. I still had some of the templates out of MDF but couldn't remember much past that. Anyway, I chuckled out loud and said "yep" when you said the glue up sucks. Yes, it does. You have to be King Kong to get the thin strips to bend, fit tight, and stay flush as you tighten the clamps. I bought a couple of special clamps years ago that really helped. Anyway, I like your laid-back teaching style and your sense of humor. So many teachers are so monotone, droll and boring they put me to sleep. And I too, have many "practice pieces" that have been flung into the scrap heap. LOL
I like the intro explaining what you need before the intro with music. not because its informative but because it shows your character. after that the rest is awesome. your work is great. never thought about creating inlays like this. keep it up
I can relate to that glue up problem. My first bent lamination several years ago was for a curved bench on a pipe organ console. I didn't make the strips wide enough so I could flush them up. Redo or as you say rinse and repeat. Thanks for sharing. Loved it!
Good job sir. Your method gives a inlay look on both sides and ends of the board. Always good to have as many methods as possible in your woodworking arsenal . Woodwork is not about speed but satisfaction with the end result. Thanks much
Thanks. I'm removing about .24" and putting in .22" Should I be dead on and be putting in .24"? My wife (who has a much sharper eye than my own) thinks my template is the problem and needs to be smoothed out. Thanks for the reply!
Technically your laminating the timber together, because the material goes from one side of your work piece to the other. Inlay is just a contrast of different materials housed into one side of your work piece.
Hey, thanks!! The song used in this video is a song called "Rope" by my band Hound. We recorded this version in my house. We have since re-recorded the song in a real studio in Detroit with Jim Diamond (the guy who recorded the White Stripes). Hopefully the record will be done by February.
Awesome! I've never recorded in a studio, but have done lots of recording at home. I hope to record some music for my videos, but I barely have time to get just the woodworking done. lol
Nice video. Next time, try just making the router channel and tapping your veneer strip inlay into that without cutting the piece with the band saw. It would make for a much easier project.
Hi David! Beautiful work. I too am drunken. Question for ya - why move to the bandsaw after routing with the straight bit vs. routing all the way through? [Assuming your bit cut depth is long enough for the stock]. Many thanks!
That looks awesome. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this a lamination, not an inlay? Isn't an inlay a veneer? Here's how I would think an inlay would go: route a 1/4" deep groove, cut strips to 3/8", glue and place in groove, then plane down excess. Am I under-thinking it?
So you're saying at the end of the day it doesn't matter? I think I could get behind that. Also, you get to see the lighter colored wood from the bottom as well.
Excellent work! Cause were I'm living inlay kit or guide bushing are impossible to find and ordering them on the web takes long time to arrive, instead of use it why simply use a spiral or straight bit with the Router base profile as bearing following the template side? Correct me please if this is wrong. Hoping I make you understand thanks again for your excellent video and work.
WOW!!! I subbed a longtime ago but seem to have lost you in the haze. I just glued up a 12" X12" block of 2.5" walnut then cut with band saw a double curve a little tighter than yours. I planed three pieces of maple to .1" and clamped (attempted to clamp) it all back together. the walnut cracked. I was going for a white river look. So I made a shim of blood wood glued and drove it in. My thinking is this will now be a North marker. Tomorrow I pull it out and see what I have. I wish you could have been there to say "this won't work you haven't removed enough wood" I would have bought you very nice cold beer!!!
Just curious, do you not use something to cover the bar on your parallel clamps? If not, how do you clean the glue off the bar part? Wouldn't it be better to put some tape or something to keep them from getting glue on them?
I would use Tightbond hide glue or epoxy. If there's even a slight chance the item would be subject to moisture use epoxy. I have used both and each works well.
To ease the stress of the router. I probably could have cut through since my top was only 1/2" thick. Any more than that is too much material to remove at once. I suppose I could have also made multiple passes with a sacrificial board underneath.
why not use a couple small dowels to align the glue up? maybe slot the strips, a dowel 1/2 inch in on each side. I understand it's curved but should be able to get the dowels aligned.
You should reverse the direction of your routing - you are routing uphill ( as it's called ) - ie- against unsupported grain - you are likely to get some tear out this way depending on the severity of the curve -if you had flipped the piece over and used a top bearing bit the cut would have been much smoother...
I'm late to this discussion, but I try anyway. I have a square piano made in ca 1820 and it has the most perfect both straight and curved inlays. How in the world did they make the grooves for the inlays at this time? This was way before the woodworking router was invented.
Liked your result, BUT its too complicated. I'll prefer to route the groove full-size, edge-dress my laminates, taper them on belt sander, tape them together (thicker edge up), and TAP them into place, (glued) with a straightedge. Thus, no dimensional worries, no multi-clamp BS, one step drying. What am I missing?
Have you tried this again? I am curious, would it work to just cut the curves with the band saw then glue up the inlay (lamination for all the wood working Nazis)... then just cut off the extra wood from the end of the lid to bring it back to the correct final dimensional size to fit the box? Seems to me the use of the router is primarily to remove an exact amount of wood, and is a two step process.
FYI I clicked on this hoping I might learn something about how to do copper wire inlays. If the video wasn't mislabeled I would have known right away it wasn't what I wanted.
Instead of only going half way through with the first router and neatening it up with the second why not just cut the middle man out so to speak and use the first router to cut all the way through?
you'd get more subscribers if you were actually drunk while woodworking. say you take a shot every time you setup and execute a new cut. you could show how gory it is to cut off a finger. think of the public awareness potential.
Check out my newest woodworking videos
th-cam.com/play/PLhqK_8dnaIW2zudsiFqD_oS6jvoC2JWvp.html
Wow. Looking at this old video and seeing what this channel produces today is night and day difference.
Hi David, Enjoyed your video and you made me laugh. I'm old and retired. I made of bunch of curved inlay jewelry boxes years ago and some curved inlay table tops. I wanted to go back and make a few more but forgot all the steps. I still had some of the templates out of MDF but couldn't remember much past that. Anyway, I chuckled out loud and said "yep" when you said the glue up sucks. Yes, it does. You have to be King Kong to get the thin strips to bend, fit tight, and stay flush as you tighten the clamps. I bought a couple of special clamps years ago that really helped. Anyway, I like your laid-back teaching style and your sense of humor. So many teachers are so monotone, droll and boring they put me to sleep. And I too, have many "practice pieces" that have been flung into the scrap heap. LOL
I like the intro explaining what you need before the intro with music. not because its informative but because it shows your character. after that the rest is awesome. your work is great. never thought about creating inlays like this. keep it up
one of the better videos that show some good tips on inlay/strips, especially blocking the wood on top and bottom to prevent bowing during glue-up.
I can relate to that glue up problem. My first bent lamination several years ago was for a curved bench on a pipe organ console. I didn't make the strips wide enough so I could flush them up. Redo or as you say rinse and repeat. Thanks for sharing. Loved it!
Good job sir. Your method gives a inlay look on both sides and ends of the board. Always good to have as many methods as possible in your woodworking arsenal . Woodwork is not about speed but satisfaction with the end result. Thanks much
The steps are so simple but I still get small gaps. Your video is helping a lot, thanks man!
+DigitalMask The amount you route away has to be the same thickness of the inlay. (if that makes sense). Also, clamp tight!!
Thanks. I'm removing about .24" and putting in .22" Should I be dead on and be putting in .24"?
My wife (who has a much sharper eye than my own) thinks my template is the problem and needs to be smoothed out.
Thanks for the reply!
hmmm. That's probably close enough. Your wife may be right.
Can't wait to apply this technique to one of my next projects...Love it. Great job explaining it!
Its basically bent lamination but using your workpiece as the forms. Thanks for sharing, an excellent decorative touch.
Technically your laminating the timber together, because the material goes from one side of your work piece to the other. Inlay is just a contrast of different materials housed into one side of your work piece.
Great technique! Looking forward to future videos!
Sooo Thankful you improved your audio
Learn something new everyday..Excellent video,thanx for sharing it...
Dope! And thanks for talking about some of the difficulties and things you would have done differently - super helpful!
YOU did a nice job. It was explained very well.
That came out really nice.
And here it comes this is the guy I been watching
I'm in on this one too!! Like it a lot!
I like it. You sure dressed that up.
Hello,I watch all your videos very nice, thank you sir.
Thanks Amir!
Awesome!! You make it look so easy.
After I messed up the first one, the second one was much easier.
Ecellent technique.Now to find the time tto do it.
Dude, I love your videos. I wish I had one tenth the talent you have. That said, you could do this very easily on a scroll saw.
That's really cool...will have to try that. I like your music. Do you record it yourself?
Hey, thanks!! The song used in this video is a song called "Rope" by my band Hound. We recorded this version in my house. We have since re-recorded the song in a real studio in Detroit with Jim Diamond (the guy who recorded the White Stripes). Hopefully the record will be done by February.
Awesome! I've never recorded in a studio, but have done lots of recording at home. I hope to record some music for my videos, but I barely have time to get just the woodworking done. lol
Drunken Woodworker where can i buy this music!
keyboardjedi Someday when we finally finish the album it'll be available here: houndband.com/sounds.html
Drunken Woodworker I discovered Boogaloosa Prayer from Googling your band last night. Thanks.
Very cool!
Nice video. Next time, try just making the router channel and tapping your veneer strip inlay into that without cutting the piece with the band saw. It would make for a much easier project.
You are right! Next time!
ha man id love to have a beer with this guy
Love this guy
You rock man. Been checking out your videos
what a cool idea man!
nice job - well done
Great job!
That Look gorgeous!!
nice idea
i know this is an older video bu tthat for posting. I'll give this a shot this week.
Very cool
Very stressful glue up I'm sure but came out great!!
Hi David! Beautiful work. I too am drunken. Question for ya - why move to the bandsaw after routing with the straight bit vs. routing all the way through? [Assuming your bit cut depth is long enough for the stock]. Many thanks!
Beautiful!
That looks awesome. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this a lamination, not an inlay? Isn't an inlay a veneer? Here's how I would think an inlay would go: route a 1/4" deep groove, cut strips to 3/8", glue and place in groove, then plane down excess. Am I under-thinking it?
Brian Noah I think you're technically correct, though it does _look_ like an inlay from the top.
So you're saying at the end of the day it doesn't matter? I think I could get behind that. Also, you get to see the lighter colored wood from the bottom as well.
Brian Noah Agreed 100%.
Excellent work! Cause were I'm living inlay kit or guide bushing are impossible to find and ordering them on the web takes long time to arrive, instead of use it why simply use a spiral or straight bit with the Router base profile as bearing following the template side? Correct me please if this is wrong. Hoping I make you understand thanks again for your excellent video and work.
Dude...that mallet is SICK. What's it made of?
it's made by Blue Spruce Tools out of maple: www.bluesprucetools.com/cgi/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=MLTRND1
WOW!!! I subbed a longtime ago but seem to have lost you in the haze. I just glued up a 12" X12" block of 2.5" walnut then cut with band saw a double curve a little tighter than yours. I planed three pieces of maple to .1" and clamped (attempted to clamp) it all back together. the walnut cracked. I was going for a white river look. So I made a shim of blood wood glued and drove it in. My thinking is this will now be a North marker. Tomorrow I pull it out and see what I have. I wish you could have been there to say "this won't work you haven't removed enough wood" I would have bought you very nice cold beer!!!
Just curious, do you not use something to cover the bar on your parallel clamps? If not, how do you clean the glue off the bar part? Wouldn't it be better to put some tape or something to keep them from getting glue on them?
Thats cool but as far as i know thats not an inlay , its a laminate. am i wrong?
What bandsaw blade works best?
thank you
Great work! I think if anything calls for (liquid) hide glue, it's stuff like this.
Nice. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get that one saw? The one where you were just pulling it back to score the veneer.
+jimgam730 Thanks! I think I got it from Amazon.com. It's called a veneer saw and if I remember correctly it was $15.
What do you recommend for a slow setting glue?
I would use Tightbond hide glue or epoxy. If there's even a slight chance the item would be subject to moisture use epoxy. I have used both and each works well.
This is a lamination process...well done
Excuse me for Rookie question? Can you tell why do you cut it apart with bandsaw? Why not to cut it through with the router?
To ease the stress of the router. I probably could have cut through since my top was only 1/2" thick. Any more than that is too much material to remove at once. I suppose I could have also made multiple passes with a sacrificial board underneath.
COOL.
Wow, that looks cool!
I have to try this at home... :) Guess I have to get some beer first. ;-)
Good job!
Maybe not first. Maybe afterwards.
why not use a couple small dowels to align the glue up? maybe slot the strips, a dowel 1/2 inch in on each side. I understand it's curved but should be able to get the dowels aligned.
When I use the flush trim bit to flush up both pieces, I get horrible tear-out. This has happened twice now. Any ideas?
Potentially dull. What type of wood?
First time was with maple, second time with a soft mahogany.
Why not cut all the way down with the router and skip the bandsaw altogether? Cheers Dan
Because you need to remove as much material as you’re putting back in otherwise it won’t fit back together and there will be gaps
You should reverse the direction of your routing - you are routing uphill ( as it's called ) - ie- against unsupported grain - you are likely to get some tear out this way depending on the severity of the curve -if you had flipped the piece over and used a top bearing bit the cut would have been much smoother...
I'm late to this discussion, but I try anyway.
I have a square piano made in ca 1820 and it has the most perfect both straight and curved inlays. How in the world did they make the grooves for the inlays at this time? This was way before the woodworking router was invented.
Yes you can use a jigsaw if you don't have a bandsaw!
Liked your result, BUT its too complicated. I'll prefer to route the groove full-size, edge-dress my laminates, taper them on belt sander, tape them together (thicker edge up), and TAP them into place, (glued) with a straightedge.
Thus, no dimensional worries, no multi-clamp BS, one step drying.
What am I missing?
Why didn't you just cut completely through with the router an skip the flush trim step?
because the cutoff is likely to move around while cutting , id say
Did You make it with woodprix instructions?
My god maaan. If you already cut mdf, you could place any piece of board between mdf and clamps to stiffen it.
Have you tried this again? I am curious, would it work to just cut the curves with the band saw then glue up the inlay (lamination for all the wood working Nazis)... then just cut off the extra wood from the end of the lid to bring it back to the correct final dimensional size to fit the box?
Seems to me the use of the router is primarily to remove an exact amount of wood, and is a two step process.
I'm guessing that would work but then the grains would no longer line up especially in a wide grained wood and then lose the illusion of an inlay
FYI I clicked on this hoping I might learn something about how to do copper wire inlays. If the video wasn't mislabeled I would have known right away it wasn't what I wanted.
One of your very old ones!!! Hahahahah Still Nice!! DD
It looks cool but its not inlay its closer to markets then inlay
okay not so bad! cheers :')
Instead of only going half way through with the first router and neatening it up with the second why not just cut the middle man out so to speak and use the first router to cut all the way through?
Not really what I would call an inlay, more a curved laminate.Nice effect though.
Thousands of lifetime projects with Stodoys plans.
Aperture Science
+mzoli1222 Nikon lens aperture
The stodoys site offers plans for this and many other interesting items.
Ik..this is a older vid..it showed up in my feed for some reason ...this isnt even inlay its panelling or laminating..nice but not not inlay..
Thanks for clearing that up Jimmy. Happy new year!
do not use powertools ıf you are drunk
ok
that is a lamination, not an inlay. you must be drunk! har har har.
you'd get more subscribers if you were actually drunk while woodworking. say you take a shot every time you setup and execute a new cut. you could show how gory it is to cut off a finger. think of the public awareness potential.
Very nice! Are you drunk or something? :)
So I did it too :D just using Stodoys woodworking plans :)
You know I be a complete ahole to expect you to do something without screwing up.
you do not seem to be very drunk??
Should have seen me last night