Great demo Marika! This is the missing piece for many people. I'd like to add one caveat, if I may: sometimes the patterns in those old books without grids aren't suuuuper accurate. Sometimes they were intended to show the general cut of a garment and weren't intended to actually be used to recreate it, I believe (looking at you, Norah Waugh). I've been caught out with the 1780s jacket in Cut Of Women's Clothes - the collar isn't *quite* curved enough. So approach with a little healthy skepticism and always mock up first!
That is really good to info to know... So, if the pattern has been separated from the ruler that would accompany it, would you just start with the measurements that are listed, like as a mockup of the "standard" size? Or how would you suggest utilizing that pattern?
I'm laughing out loud...I needed a brain rest at the 14 minute mark . Fun wasn't exactly the noun that I would use for that method but I'm glad to revisit it in after a quick break. :D
One trick I like is to pick up a bunch of jumbo wrapping paper rolls, usually on clearance after Christmas. They usually have a one inch grid printed on the back, which makes grid patterns super easy.
BLESS YOU FOR THIS. My brother got my a Patterns of Fashion book for my birthday & while I have all the hopes and dreams in the world... I am overwhelmed at having to create 1700s gown pieces instead of just cutting them out LOL.
Thank you! I have several really old pattern books that I have tried to use, not realizing that it was a different ruler than i had . Now that i know i need a apportioning ruler I will try them again. Thank you for explaining this. It's one of the hard parts for us self taught seamstress. So many questions and no one to ask while I was learning. I learned how to make paper packages patterns bigger and smaller, but the ones I really wanted were found in old books with no direction at all. They assumed we knew how it was done. And you know what we say about assumption......
I used the proportion ruler method but I wanted to use my computer pattern software to create the pattern. I copied the ones for my bust, waist and hips. Took my 18 inch clear ruler and taped the rulers to the back with the inches side up. I can now got to the correct measurement and put it in my software and create my pattern. Great video. I learned a few things. Thank you for doing this.
I've never heard of the third method before but OMG I love it!! I really wanna try that! The great thing is that you already have the pattern altered to your measurements, so minimal effort.
I have been very overwhelmed by the idea of trying an aportioning ruler so thank you for this video. I'm excited to try some patterns from Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques.
I always love seeing different ways to scale up patterns! I have my eye on one of the corsets in the Jill Salen book but have been debating with myself on how to scale it up. While watching you I had a brainwave that might work! (Tracing out the pieces and then using a copier to resize them. Our printer is a multifunction one from back when Dad had his own business, before he retired, so it can act as a copier.)
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes The red & black one on the cover! lol I'm planning on modifying it slightly for historybounding by replacing the front busk with ziptie bones, and using ziptie bones in the back. (I may add a pocket so I can add a ruler as a flat metal busk for stiffer front.... Undecided on that.) I'll need to do some maaaaaaaaajor resizing. I think there's something like a 20" difference between the size of the corset as-is and what I need in a corset.
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes And I just did a test run of tracing-then-enlarging and I'm pleased with how it turned out! I think with the use of tracing paper and a ruler (and registration marks where I'll have to overlap pieces), and this will work very well! :D Not a technique that's easily accessible to everyone, but certainly something I can do.
Incredibly informative. Gridded and non-gridded made sense to me, but I have zero experience with apportioning rulers. Thank you very much for explaining it so thoroughly! I’m itching to get my hands on some apportioning pattern books, now. Love, light, and blessings to you and yours.
Oh my word, this came at just the right time for me! I am planning on trying my hand at a jacket from the Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns this winter. Thank you for saving me much head-scratching and puzzlement!
Thank you !!!!! Finally I get How It works, for non english is much dificult to hit on the right meaning when we read those books I just lose Hope to get It right. You open a World to me and gave impuls to try again!!
I have been struggling for days trying to figure out how to scale these stupid patterns (method 3) and I was essentially right on track but have never heard of an apportioning ruler and am scaling it for a doll, so I've been using my dad's scaling ruler. It's not exactly what I probably really need but man this really filled in a mental black hole. THANK YOU!!
This was great! I did not even learn this in tailoring school as we spent most of our time drafting patterns from scratch. I am going to get so much use of these methods. Thank you!
I have probably half these books. I have so far only used the grid method found in Janet Arnold's books. I haven't tried the scaled ruler yet found ninths Victorian dress books. I have both unfortunately I misplaced the Dress Making Techniques book when I reorganized my sewing room I added a table a repurposed a book case the my 4 yr old broke trying to climb up like a ladder. I turned upside-down and set it on one of my tables and now use it as a short book case. When I pulled all my sewing books out of their various hiding spots I somehow misplaced it. You just explained to me what I needed to know in order to enlarge them and put them on paper. Maybe now I will try my hand at the riding habit in the book I manage to not misplace. This really e as very informative video. I think I need to add photoshop now to my computer.
This is th video of my dreams! I've been wanting to branch into victorian fashion and was trying to figure out how to size up the patterns. Now I just need to find and apportioning ruler! :) Thank you again.
I've done a couple of patterns from The National Garment Cutter Book of Diagrams without an apportioning ruler. It took a *lot* of math. I found out the ratio between the waist measurement for the pattern and my own and then multiplied all the horizontal measurements by that. Thankfully, I didn't have to change the vertical measurements. This actually worked out fairly well (still needed mockups but not too many) as that is essentially what apportioning rulers do for you without all the math. I loved the tip for using the rulers on gridless patterns to find out how much to enlarge the scan by. That's a great tip!
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes The blog post by Sewing Goatherd makes the math sound fairly easy, if it helps. (As in, breaking it down in a manner that's easy to understand. Just basic division that you can do with a calculator and a piece of paper you fold to get the smaller divisions!)
@@maywenearedhel I agree. Math isn’t my strong suit but I’m good with geometry. But I agree with Marika that these patterns are not for the novice sewist. There is a lot of assumed knowledge in the patterns.
Guurrrrlll - I WANT to give you 200 likes!! This was SO on point and laid out to be very understandable - YAY!! This is just what I needed to learn. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!
The ruler method looks sooooo cool to do! I am an absolute beginner, but would love to try the method at some point. It just looks so fun, and the prospect of the garment fitting perfectly sounds amazing!
oh my god!!!! FINALLY!!!! I have had two of the Christina Harris books with selected patterns to try and make I could not for the life of me work out half to draft the bleeding things from her instructions- this makes the proportion rulers make so much more sense- thank you so much! Also cheers for the tip on then how sew those patterns- I shall make sure I finally buy that book off my wishlist next
Kind of had no idea how much I needed this refresher..I have a pattern I've been avoiding because it's a non-gridded. It's been a really long time since I've worked with one. Thank you for this video.
I know others are saying Inkscape is a good program, but another one to try that is also free is GIMP. And now I'm a little upset. I JUST returned the Edwardian Modiste to the library yesterday! It is another one with the apportioning rulers. I had it all through being at home with lock down and working at home. The library from which I got it was closed for a long time (academic library). I had no idea how to use it, so it sat on my shelf for most of that time.
I was coming her to say that ... GIMP ≈ Photoshop Inkscape ≈ Illustrator Both Inkscape and GIMP are free, and quite complex to learn. [I don't know of any good free, simple drawing programs.] But anything you can do in Photoshop or Illustrator, you can do with one of these. I'm a web and graphic designer, and did freelance work with the free software.
@@lizcademy4809 I have never got my head around GIMP (which my husband likes) but I love paintdotnet. I love being able to draw in paintdotnet, which I haven't figured how to do in GIMP. My question: what am I missing out on by not persevering with GIMP or does paintdotnet do most of it anyway?
That’s my exact favourite design from turn-of-the-century patterns!!!! Not that I’ve been game yet to actually make it... but hmm. Maybe now? 😆 Thanks Marika!
Thank you so much for this video! I have been very hesitant to try to either buy a book where I have to scale. You explained everything so very clear that you took the scary out! 👏💕💫
All this methodes are great recommendations, I bought The cut o woman’s clothing two weeks ago and I couldn’t figure out how to enlarge the patterns this video grave me various options, thank you!
Always a pleasure to see you explain things. I loved your videos about the Constellation Gown. I have heavy wantings to make a ballgown like that pattern on my own. Unfortunately there is one more problem for me: We don't have imperial measurements here. We use metric. But for me it's ok, it just involves a bit more math (gladly there are plenty of converting pages out in the www) and a bit more fiddling with the mockup.
Canada switched to metric in the 80’s but there are still people who use imperial. As well as older publications or American publications. Anyway it makes us able to work in both systems. For the ruler measuring I would convert your measurements to imperial then just use that. The older patterns marks may all be in imperial. Once it’s drafted you can go back to metric.
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes yeah me too. I find it depends on my reference material can’t be bothered to change it. More chance of errors in conversation. My local fabric store sells material in both yards and meters so it’s doesn’t bug me either way.
Well here in Germany we don't have imperial at all only metric. But as I said it's ok. So far I only have The Victorian Dressmaker here and the one garment I used it for it worked quite well :D
@@Hysteria_Costumes I’m almost jealous but we are too close to the USA to be completely metric. Well that and some of the old measurements just make more sense to me
It has been 3 decades since I was at collage doing dressmaking and fashion designing 😹😹 it was interesting how quickly I remembered how I was taught on how to draw up pattern pieces nicely done it was fun having such a re-fresher course on it again 🤗🤗🤗it was interesting to see how much I had remembered I will have to search through all my boxes of books to find all my sewing books 🙀🙀🙀 not looking forward to that but I have a few books on Elizabethan clothes but most;y just my collage course books as well so they will be handy to have around again 😹😹😹
I would like to try the special ruler method. I like connecting dots too. I think I would feel extra happy that I was able to take a small pattern in a book and translate it to my size. You made it look so easy! I have difficulty with printed pattern instructions and the measurements are always off from the big 4. I think I will watch this again to get the names of the books down. Thank you for sharing this with us!! Very educational.
This was verrry helpful. I’m teaching myself pattern drafting as I am lusting after that walking suit pattern with the gigot sleeves. My fabric of choice is $100./metre (yard) so a mock up and great fit is essential.
That was immensely interesting! I have patterns like the apportioning ruler ones ones for the 1950s, but the starting point for those are at a point in the middle of the pattern pieces. Haven't quite figured out, how that works with different sizes for bust/hip/etc. I need to play around with those for sure...
It makes sense to me to add my seam allowance after the apportioning ruler stage because the seam allowance is not apportioned to size, but should be consistent across sizes.
I watched this video earlier, like several months ago, then got the books and tried doing the Apportioning Ruler. I ended up with some really wonky patterns. Oi, maybe I'll show you my collar. UGH! I was going through your videos again and decided to rewatch this one to refresh my memory. Dang if I didn't discover something I missed the first time abut using the rulers. The Back Waist Length measurement. Boy, howdy, did that ever change the narrative in my head! So now I'm going to try the apportioning method again and see if it will work out better than the last time.
I definitely want to try the apportioning ruler method! That sounds just amazing. Because honestly, some of the biggest issues I have is enlarging the original pattern to fit me- and as many of the originals are a 24in waist, and I have a 37-41in waist (depending on corset), that’s a lot of enlarging!
It is a lot of fun! You may want to check out the beginning of my victorian gown! I talk about how I enlarged the pattern for the skirt! Or look up slashing and spreading a pattern!
Thank you so much for this video I love your channel cause it is so wholesome and just relaxing and peaceful. You and Morgan Donner are so awesome and just chill ladies. I wonder if you could use apportioning rulers to make the grid and non-grid patterns to your proportions. Just make the pattern once using the original scale but then figure out the measurements between the points but retracing the pattern using your own ruler, might work. Question would be how you know which ruler to use where I'm guessing it depends of which piece your are working on but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Might require some trial and error but boy it could be fun to try.
I've been meaning to try the proportioning rulers. Cosplay School has all the rulers for the books by Kristina Harris I believe and they go up to 60" which helps me out because I am *just* ever so slightly larger than Grimble's rulers.
@@francesgrimble1865 YOu misunderstood what I was saying. I am saying that Cosplay School has created rulers that fit up to a 60" bust or waist. Not that they are 60 in long.
Thank you so much for this video! I found a copy of the Directoire Revival Fashions at my local library after watching this, and I would be completely bewildered had I not seen your explanation! ❤️
Love the explanation! I just need the title of the second book you mentioned, for the apportioned rulers? I think I have the first book already. Scrambling to the bookshelf to check would make me miss something you say...yeah, I'll check later. Love your channel, so informative.
this is so helpful! I just got into historical sewing this year and all the patterns I've used are drafted on wrapping paper from books or online pictures because I don't have any paper patterns. the first one i did(the keystone walking skirt) took me a little while to figure out, but now I actually really enjoy drafting out the patterns.
I was such a budget costumer when I started historical costuming that this is all I did - I never purchased patterns. For the non-gridded patterns, I've also just drawn grids directly into the book with a pencil and then scaled up. Btw, I love the blue blouse you're wearing! Did you make it, and if so, what pattern did you use?
Definitely saving this!!! It’s been a while since I was trying to scale up patterns but an easy to find reference is always good. The ruler method looks the easiest and scaling it to size or close sounds amazing!! This could lead to another rabbit hole!! Or twenty seven!!! I need more time to make all the things and learn all the things!!!!
Marika, this is amazing. Can't thank you enough. I have read how to use these, but didn't quite get it. Your video is a keeper for sure. I will watch it a few times but you are the first person to truly show and explain how these patterns work. You deserve an internet award! :) Thanks also for the link to the Cosplay site with the rulers. I don't have the Voice of Fashion book so I will be purchasing the rulers from the link. Can't wait to give this a real try. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! :)
Thanks for another great how-to video! I haven't tried any of these yet, but am excited to get going! I have this video bookmarked for when I am ready!
For those of us that are poor and can't afford Photoshop. Inkscape is basically a photoshop for free the program is quite robust, has loads of features and it is easy to use. GIMP is also free and you can you most on the same things a photoshop as well.
As an Australian, trying to figure out the measurements is always a nightmare! What's wrong with the metric system?! Trying to figure out 5.9 inches is in centimeters is enough to make you want to find whoever created the imperial measuring system and smack them. But I digress, Thank you for explain this in such an easy-to-follow way. I just brought myself the Pattern of Fashion 5 for my birthday and cant wait to take it for a spin.
Thank you for this wonderful video! I got the 79 turn-of-the-century book and didn't know what to do with all those figures. Now I understand! I just need to get my hands on the rulers now. :)
Great video, Marika. Could you link to the video where you explain how to use freezer paper to protect your finished pattern? I can't seem to locate it.
Now I understand the 3rd method! Just a suggestion to save time - if you usually trace a 2nd copy why don't you pin a 2nd piece of paper underneath before you cut it out? Looking forward to the next video 😊🧵
I have a spanish book from mid 19th century and although says squares, don't says the scale. I think I will try the first method to try to get some patterns. Thanks for this video!!
Oh my, The 3rd method might actually work with my not-so-feminine bodyform. I need to try it. Luckily I already have one of the books. I need to be brave and try out the ruler method.
I‘ve learned to sew from Japanese sewing book (fwi I don’t know any Japanese) you also have to enlarge patterns there but it’s pretty simple cuts & some Pictogramm instructions so not nearly as complicated as historical patterns
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/enchantedrosecostumes10201
Great demo Marika! This is the missing piece for many people. I'd like to add one caveat, if I may: sometimes the patterns in those old books without grids aren't suuuuper accurate. Sometimes they were intended to show the general cut of a garment and weren't intended to actually be used to recreate it, I believe (looking at you, Norah Waugh). I've been caught out with the 1780s jacket in Cut Of Women's Clothes - the collar isn't *quite* curved enough. So approach with a little healthy skepticism and always mock up first!
Thank you Cathy!!
That is really good to info to know... So, if the pattern has been separated from the ruler that would accompany it, would you just start with the measurements that are listed, like as a mockup of the "standard" size? Or how would you suggest utilizing that pattern?
@@francesgrimble1865 I guess that's what I should start looking for. I am not sure where the patterns come from. That's part of the problem.
That's the golden rule, mock up, mock up, mock up
I need to try out that ruler method, it looks fun!
They are sooo much fun! And there are so many pattern you can find on pinterest!!
I'm laughing out loud...I needed a brain rest at the 14 minute mark . Fun wasn't exactly the noun that I would use for that method but I'm glad to revisit it in after a quick break. :D
@@l.m.2404 I'm with you there -- strange Idea of fun.
One trick I like is to pick up a bunch of jumbo wrapping paper rolls, usually on clearance after Christmas. They usually have a one inch grid printed on the back, which makes grid patterns super easy.
I use it too... great source of large grid paper.
@@l.m.2404 that's a brilliant idea! I've only seen wrapping paper with grit on the back ones but I'll keep an eye out for them no! Thanks for sharing!
OH MY GOD, why have I never thought of this?! I have like 20 rolls of wrapping wrapping paper I could have been using this whole time!
Viewing Marika's video is like having a wise, gentle friend sitting with you as you muscle through a historic pattern.
💜💜💜
BLESS YOU FOR THIS. My brother got my a Patterns of Fashion book for my birthday & while I have all the hopes and dreams in the world... I am overwhelmed at having to create 1700s gown pieces instead of just cutting them out LOL.
Someone’s letting me borrow their book but I can’t find the scaler at all if you know it it’d be great help 😭
I kept experiencing that "AHHHHHH. I understand now!" moment. Like five times! Astonishing and wonderful. Thank you.
Thank you! I have several really old pattern books that I have tried to use, not realizing that it was a different ruler than i had . Now that i know i need a apportioning ruler I will try them again. Thank you for explaining this. It's one of the hard parts for us self taught seamstress. So many questions and no one to ask while I was learning. I learned how to make paper packages patterns bigger and smaller, but the ones I really wanted were found in old books with no direction at all. They assumed we knew how it was done. And you know what we say about assumption......
I used the proportion ruler method but I wanted to use my computer pattern software to create the pattern. I copied the ones for my bust, waist and hips. Took my 18 inch clear ruler and taped the rulers to the back with the inches side up. I can now got to the correct measurement and put it in my software and create my pattern. Great video. I learned a few things. Thank you for doing this.
I've never heard of the third method before but OMG I love it!! I really wanna try that! The great thing is that you already have the pattern altered to your measurements, so minimal effort.
I have been very overwhelmed by the idea of trying an aportioning ruler so thank you for this video. I'm excited to try some patterns from Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques.
I always love seeing different ways to scale up patterns! I have my eye on one of the corsets in the Jill Salen book but have been debating with myself on how to scale it up. While watching you I had a brainwave that might work! (Tracing out the pieces and then using a copier to resize them. Our printer is a multifunction one from back when Dad had his own business, before he retired, so it can act as a copier.)
I have been looking at the Jill Salen book! Which corset are you planning to make? Also having a multifunction printer is so handy!
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes The red & black one on the cover! lol I'm planning on modifying it slightly for historybounding by replacing the front busk with ziptie bones, and using ziptie bones in the back. (I may add a pocket so I can add a ruler as a flat metal busk for stiffer front.... Undecided on that.) I'll need to do some maaaaaaaaajor resizing. I think there's something like a 20" difference between the size of the corset as-is and what I need in a corset.
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes And I just did a test run of tracing-then-enlarging and I'm pleased with how it turned out! I think with the use of tracing paper and a ruler (and registration marks where I'll have to overlap pieces), and this will work very well! :D Not a technique that's easily accessible to everyone, but certainly something I can do.
Yay!
I think this will go in my list of reference videos for when I have great need of advice.
Incredibly informative. Gridded and non-gridded made sense to me, but I have zero experience with apportioning rulers. Thank you very much for explaining it so thoroughly! I’m itching to get my hands on some apportioning pattern books, now. Love, light, and blessings to you and yours.
Oh my word, this came at just the right time for me! I am planning on trying my hand at a jacket from the Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns this winter. Thank you for saving me much head-scratching and puzzlement!
Thank you !!!!! Finally I get How It works, for non english is much dificult to hit on the right meaning when we read those books I just lose Hope to get It right. You open a World to me and gave impuls to try again!!
I've had good experience with apportioning rulers with my mock up combinations fitting well enough I can wear it
I have been struggling for days trying to figure out how to scale these stupid patterns (method 3) and I was essentially right on track but have never heard of an apportioning ruler and am scaling it for a doll, so I've been using my dad's scaling ruler. It's not exactly what I probably really need but man this really filled in a mental black hole. THANK YOU!!
This was great! I did not even learn this in tailoring school as we spent most of our time drafting patterns from scratch. I am going to get so much use of these methods. Thank you!
Thanks now I can finaly do the ruler methode.
Couldn't figure out how to use them
Thank you Marika for the wonderful methods explained here.
I have probably half these books. I have so far only used the grid method found in Janet Arnold's books. I haven't tried the scaled ruler yet found ninths Victorian dress books. I have both unfortunately I misplaced the Dress Making Techniques book when I reorganized my sewing room I added a table a repurposed a book case the my 4 yr old broke trying to climb up like a ladder. I turned upside-down and set it on one of my tables and now use it as a short book case. When I pulled all my sewing books out of their various hiding spots I somehow misplaced it. You just explained to me what I needed to know in order to enlarge them and put them on paper. Maybe now I will try my hand at the riding habit in the book I manage to not misplace. This really e as very informative video. I think I need to add photoshop now to my computer.
I always love "find the link" finger guns. LOL. Fantastic information. Thank you!
Thank you thank you thank you for the apportioning ruler method!!!! I have been so curious about how that is supposed to work! You're the best!
All Hail, Marika! The Master Dot-to-dot-er!! This was useful. You made it look easy. Thank you. Stay well.
This is th video of my dreams! I've been wanting to branch into victorian fashion and was trying to figure out how to size up the patterns. Now I just need to find and apportioning ruler! :) Thank you again.
store.cosplaysewingschool.com/p/scale-approption-rulers/
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes you're amazing!! Thank you!! 😁
I've done a couple of patterns from The National Garment Cutter Book of Diagrams without an apportioning ruler. It took a *lot* of math. I found out the ratio between the waist measurement for the pattern and my own and then multiplied all the horizontal measurements by that. Thankfully, I didn't have to change the vertical measurements. This actually worked out fairly well (still needed mockups but not too many) as that is essentially what apportioning rulers do for you without all the math. I loved the tip for using the rulers on gridless patterns to find out how much to enlarge the scan by. That's a great tip!
Oh my goodness I commend you! I likely would have ended up a sobbing mess on the floor if I tried the figure it out with out one of the rulers 😅😅😅
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes The blog post by Sewing Goatherd makes the math sound fairly easy, if it helps. (As in, breaking it down in a manner that's easy to understand. Just basic division that you can do with a calculator and a piece of paper you fold to get the smaller divisions!)
Oh very good to know!
Happy to know! I'm not bad at math, but it's definitely not my favorite. However, Geometry is my strong suit, so I might be ok then without a ruler.
@@maywenearedhel I agree. Math isn’t my strong suit but I’m good with geometry. But I agree with Marika that these patterns are not for the novice sewist. There is a lot of assumed knowledge in the patterns.
Guurrrrlll - I WANT to give you 200 likes!! This was SO on point and laid out to be very understandable - YAY!! This is just what I needed to learn. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!
The ruler method looks sooooo cool to do! I am an absolute beginner, but would love to try the method at some point. It just looks so fun, and the prospect of the garment fitting perfectly sounds amazing!
Im so glad you mentioned the special rulers for the Victorian fashion book because I just bought that book, and had no idea I needed to make a ruler.
The apportioning method looks the easiest!
Thankyou Miss Marika, very helpful indeed, thanks teacher.
oh my god!!!! FINALLY!!!! I have had two of the Christina Harris books with selected patterns to try and make I could not for the life of me work out half to draft the bleeding things from her instructions- this makes the proportion rulers make so much more sense- thank you so much!
Also cheers for the tip on then how sew those patterns- I shall make sure I finally buy that book off my wishlist next
Oh wow, I really want to try out the apportioning rulers method!
Inkscape is the free photoshop like program. It's got a little learning curve but there are tons of TH-cam tutorials to help with enlarging patterns.
GIMP is the free Photoshop. Inkscape is more like a free Illustrator.
Kind of had no idea how much I needed this refresher..I have a pattern I've been avoiding because it's a non-gridded. It's been a really long time since I've worked with one. Thank you for this video.
Watching again while Missy is recovering from her dump truck encounter. I miss her a lot but these repeats are entertaining.
I know others are saying Inkscape is a good program, but another one to try that is also free is GIMP. And now I'm a little upset. I JUST returned the Edwardian Modiste to the library yesterday! It is another one with the apportioning rulers. I had it all through being at home with lock down and working at home. The library from which I got it was closed for a long time (academic library). I had no idea how to use it, so it sat on my shelf for most of that time.
I was coming her to say that ...
GIMP ≈ Photoshop
Inkscape ≈ Illustrator
Both Inkscape and GIMP are free, and quite complex to learn. [I don't know of any good free, simple drawing programs.] But anything you can do in Photoshop or Illustrator, you can do with one of these.
I'm a web and graphic designer, and did freelance work with the free software.
@@lizcademy4809 I have never got my head around GIMP (which my husband likes) but I love paintdotnet. I love being able to draw in paintdotnet, which I haven't figured how to do in GIMP. My question: what am I missing out on by not persevering with GIMP or does paintdotnet do most of it anyway?
That’s my exact favourite design from turn-of-the-century patterns!!!! Not that I’ve been game yet to actually make it... but hmm. Maybe now? 😆 Thanks Marika!
It is such an awesome coat!!! It needs to be made!
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes how true 😁
Thank you so much for this video! I have been very hesitant to try to either buy a book where I have to scale. You explained everything so very clear that you took the scary out! 👏💕💫
Thank you for this! It is very helpful to see how you navigate scaling up the different types of patterning books.
I've never understood the apportioning ruler before this, great explanation!
Thank you for this. I need to try the apportioning ruler one.
All this methodes are great recommendations, I bought The cut o woman’s clothing two weeks ago and I couldn’t figure out how to enlarge the patterns this video grave me various options, thank you!
I have all of those books and now I know how to use them! Thanks so much!
I’m glad you have this video. I love my pattern books but I can’t make them because I don’t know where to begin with scaling a pattern up to my size
This is so helpful! Thank you so much
Thank you so much for explaining how to use the apoortioning rulers, best explanation.
You've explained things so clearly!! What a life saver! Thank you!!!!!
You are very welcome!
Wonderfully informative. Thanks so much!
Brilliant and smiling explanations, thank you so much!
thank you!! i was just struggling with a pattern from a nora waugh book when i saw this upload!
Always a pleasure to see you explain things. I loved your videos about the Constellation Gown. I have heavy wantings to make a ballgown like that pattern on my own. Unfortunately there is one more problem for me: We don't have imperial measurements here. We use metric. But for me it's ok, it just involves a bit more math (gladly there are plenty of converting pages out in the www) and a bit more fiddling with the mockup.
Canada switched to metric in the 80’s but there are still people who use imperial. As well as older publications or American publications. Anyway it makes us able to work in both systems. For the ruler measuring I would convert your measurements to imperial then just use that. The older patterns marks may all be in imperial. Once it’s drafted you can go back to metric.
I use both 😬😅 it depends on the item I'm making or how precise I need something to be 😁
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes yeah me too. I find it depends on my reference material can’t be bothered to change it. More chance of errors in conversation. My local fabric store sells material in both yards and meters so it’s doesn’t bug me either way.
Well here in Germany we don't have imperial at all only metric. But as I said it's ok. So far I only have The Victorian Dressmaker here and the one garment I used it for it worked quite well :D
@@Hysteria_Costumes I’m almost jealous but we are too close to the USA to be completely metric. Well that and some of the old measurements just make more sense to me
It has been 3 decades since I was at collage doing dressmaking and fashion designing 😹😹 it was interesting how quickly I remembered how I was taught on how to draw up pattern pieces nicely done it was fun having such a re-fresher course on it again 🤗🤗🤗it was interesting to see how much I had remembered I will have to search through all my boxes of books to find all my sewing books 🙀🙀🙀 not looking forward to that but I have a few books on Elizabethan clothes but most;y just my collage course books as well so they will be handy to have around again 😹😹😹
I would like to try the special ruler method. I like connecting dots too. I think I would feel extra happy that I was able to take a small pattern in a book and translate it to my size. You made it look so easy! I have difficulty with printed pattern instructions and the measurements are always off from the big 4. I think I will watch this again to get the names of the books down. Thank you for sharing this with us!! Very educational.
I have all the books listed below if that helps! The apportioning ruler method is a lot of fun!
Authentic Victorian dressmaking demystified! Yay! Thank you for these!
Thanks for this video. I've wondered more than once how this was done. Now I need to try these methods to see which one works best for me.
This was verrry helpful. I’m teaching myself pattern drafting as I am lusting after that walking suit pattern with the gigot sleeves. My fabric of choice is $100./metre (yard) so a mock up and great fit is essential.
this was a really good working demo for the assorted techniques. I like the math one myself. And it reminded me of the differences which was useful.
That was immensely interesting! I have patterns like the apportioning ruler ones ones for the 1950s, but the starting point for those are at a point in the middle of the pattern pieces. Haven't quite figured out, how that works with different sizes for bust/hip/etc. I need to play around with those for sure...
Thank you for the awesome tutorial. I just purchased a pattern (and rulers) for a 1930's outfit. Your instrutions are awesome. Thank you.
I've always wondered how those antique patterns were supposed to work! Now I know!
It makes sense to me to add my seam allowance after the apportioning ruler stage because the seam allowance is not apportioned to size, but should be consistent across sizes.
A really usefull video. I knew most of the techniques, but not the one with the special rulers :D I love these enlightening moments :) Thank you lots!
Bookmarking this video for many future reference uses! Thanks!!
I watched this video earlier, like several months ago, then got the books and tried doing the Apportioning Ruler. I ended up with some really wonky patterns. Oi, maybe I'll show you my collar. UGH! I was going through your videos again and decided to rewatch this one to refresh my memory. Dang if I didn't discover something I missed the first time abut using the rulers. The Back Waist Length measurement. Boy, howdy, did that ever change the narrative in my head! So now I'm going to try the apportioning method again and see if it will work out better than the last time.
Thank you so much for all the info and the books 😢 it's just what I've been looking for.
I definitely want to try the apportioning ruler method! That sounds just amazing. Because honestly, some of the biggest issues I have is enlarging the original pattern to fit me- and as many of the originals are a 24in waist, and I have a 37-41in waist (depending on corset), that’s a lot of enlarging!
It is a lot of fun! You may want to check out the beginning of my victorian gown! I talk about how I enlarged the pattern for the skirt! Or look up slashing and spreading a pattern!
Woah this is so useful thank you!
New methods for me to try! And I'm so curious of the rulers, just one more thing the makes me want to jump into some late Victorian fashion making...
Thank you so much for this video I love your channel cause it is so wholesome and just relaxing and peaceful. You and Morgan Donner are so awesome and just chill ladies.
I wonder if you could use apportioning rulers to make the grid and non-grid patterns to your proportions. Just make the pattern once using the original scale but then figure out the measurements between the points but retracing the pattern using your own ruler, might work. Question would be how you know which ruler to use where I'm guessing it depends of which piece your are working on but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Might require some trial and error but boy it could be fun to try.
I've been meaning to try the proportioning rulers. Cosplay School has all the rulers for the books by Kristina Harris I believe and they go up to 60" which helps me out because I am *just* ever so slightly larger than Grimble's rulers.
That is awesome!!! I just looked it up and it looks 👍🏻👍🏻 store.cosplaysewingschool.com/p/scale-approption-rulers/
@@francesgrimble1865 YOu misunderstood what I was saying. I am saying that Cosplay School has created rulers that fit up to a 60" bust or waist. Not that they are 60 in long.
Thank you very much for this comment, I just purchased them! Yay!
Thank you so much for this video! I found a copy of the Directoire Revival Fashions at my local library after watching this, and I would be completely bewildered had I not seen your explanation! ❤️
Love the explanation! I just need the title of the second book you mentioned, for the apportioned rulers? I think I have the first book already. Scrambling to the bookshelf to check would make me miss something you say...yeah, I'll check later. Love your channel, so informative.
The voice of fashion has the apportioning rulers i used in the video!
this is so helpful! I just got into historical sewing this year and all the patterns I've used are drafted on wrapping paper from books or online pictures because I don't have any paper patterns. the first one i did(the keystone walking skirt) took me a little while to figure out, but now I actually really enjoy drafting out the patterns.
I was such a budget costumer when I started historical costuming that this is all I did - I never purchased patterns. For the non-gridded patterns, I've also just drawn grids directly into the book with a pencil and then scaled up. Btw, I love the blue blouse you're wearing! Did you make it, and if so, what pattern did you use?
I am very much the same! 😁 Thank you, it is the blue dress I made last year!
NIce clear instructions. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Definitely saving this!!! It’s been a while since I was trying to scale up patterns but an easy to find reference is always good. The ruler method looks the easiest and scaling it to size or close sounds amazing!! This could lead to another rabbit hole!! Or twenty seven!!! I need more time to make all the things and learn all the things!!!!
perfect! i just received my PoF5 !! great timing!
also yes please i need a video on adjustments techniques!
Thank you so much for this video. You certainly cleared up alot of questions for me on how to use these books. Thank you again Marika.
John
Glad to have helped!
Marika, this is amazing. Can't thank you enough. I have read how to use these, but didn't quite get it. Your video is a keeper for sure. I will watch it a few times but you are the first person to truly show and explain how these patterns work. You deserve an internet award! :) Thanks also for the link to the Cosplay site with the rulers. I don't have the Voice of Fashion book so I will be purchasing the rulers from the link. Can't wait to give this a real try. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! :)
This is gold!!! Thank you 💖🦸🏼♀️
You're welcome! 😁
Thanks for another great how-to video! I haven't tried any of these yet, but am excited to get going! I have this video bookmarked for when I am ready!
For those of us that are poor and can't afford Photoshop. Inkscape is basically a photoshop for free the program is quite robust, has loads of features and it is easy to use. GIMP is also free and you can you most on the same things a photoshop as well.
Thank you for the recommendations!! 😁
Oh, this is so helpful, thank you Marika!
YES!!!!! THANK YOU!🤣🤣🤣
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This video is so very helpful and I can't wait to actually use my books to draft patterns in the future.
Good luck!
As an Australian, trying to figure out the measurements is always a nightmare! What's wrong with the metric system?! Trying to figure out 5.9 inches is in centimeters is enough to make you want to find whoever created the imperial measuring system and smack them. But I digress, Thank you for explain this in such an easy-to-follow way. I just brought myself the Pattern of Fashion 5 for my birthday and cant wait to take it for a spin.
Ahhh so that's what those arrows mean. Thank you!!
Oooow this looks like soo much fun I want to try them all 🥰
Thank you for this wonderful video! I got the 79 turn-of-the-century book and didn't know what to do with all those figures. Now I understand! I just need to get my hands on the rulers now. :)
They are so helpful! Good luck 😁
Great video, Marika. Could you link to the video where you explain how to use freezer paper to protect your finished pattern? I can't seem to locate it.
That was Costuming Drama! 😉😁
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes ty
Now I understand the 3rd method! Just a suggestion to save time - if you usually trace a 2nd copy why don't you pin a 2nd piece of paper underneath before you cut it out? Looking forward to the next video 😊🧵
I have a spanish book from mid 19th century and although says squares, don't says the scale. I think I will try the first method to try to get some patterns. Thanks for this video!!
Oh my, The 3rd method might actually work with my not-so-feminine bodyform. I need to try it. Luckily I already have one of the books. I need to be brave and try out the ruler method.
This is such an amazing tutorial!! Thank you so much for producing this video-well done!
seriously considering trying page 92, just because. I've always been fond of the princess cut, (59 turn of the cent etc.)
I‘ve learned to sew from Japanese sewing book (fwi I don’t know any Japanese) you also have to enlarge patterns there but it’s pretty simple cuts & some Pictogramm instructions so not nearly as complicated as historical patterns
Omg I love you you are a life saver praying it works 😭 for me subscribed !!
I hope it goes well for you 😁
Thank you 🙏🏻, a wonderful informative video. You explain things so clearly. 🥰