Exactly my thoughts! Medieval serging, only better because it eventually felts down into a single solid hem that won't come loose or unpick itself if snagged. A process you could always encourage with a wee bit of strategic and very localized wet agitation or steam ironing.
When someone gets good with this form off weaving- they can make belts and straps of any kind. Think 1960s guitar straps with very colorful designs. I've seen this when I was at SCA events and it seemed so complicated the first few times I saw this done.
I weave and it took me a solid minute to wrap my head around out how this would work out. I love learning about how people used to design more sustainability into their clothing. I wish we could get back to that way of thinking and away from fast fashion. Can't wait to see the final dress! I'm basing my decision of recreating it myself on your final thoughts.
I have sworn off fast fashion for about 8 months now and am making my clothes. Means that I have to plan and consciously think about my wardrobe. Very interesting process and my clothes fit so nicely.
@@MorganDonner ive been accumulating old clothes for AGES to remake, but now that its become, uh, an unhinged mess of stash, its time to tackle it. i actually have a piece of fabric in the stash that will have to get this hem treatment, and ive been saving that tablecloth for a project for more than a decade. a lot of the denim ive saved will become pants and skirts that will fit me at a range of sizes. the number of jeans that NEVER fit that ive gathered through the years is ridiculous. ive got an old damaged quilt that will become a petticoat. Clothes that FIT! Clothes that LAST! Clothes with POCKETS! the future is the past and its NOW.
@@OopzyDayzy Ever consider making a quilt from all the old jeans? Good sized squares of all that well washed, soft, denim; tied quilting, not those itty, bitty stitches.
Weaving tip. When calculating warp length remember that weaving is three dimensional, which means allowing for the bending of warp around weft - which takes more length of yarn than the flat tape measurement of your skirt diameter. So be generous with your “bit extra.” Better to have some waste at the end than to end up too short. In floor loom weaving we consider the desired dimensions of the finished cloth + take-up (what I just mentioned) + shrinkage after washing for both warp and weft, and also loom waste for the warp. Obviously, for your project it wouldn’t need to be so complicated, since there are so few threads involved, and you have virtually no loom waste with the card weaving. Enjoyed the video very much. You did a great job explaining the process, and made it seem very straightforward. Thanks!
I assume that warp-faced techniques like tablet weaving require more “extra” warp than weft-faced ones. Grosgrain is a more extreme example of warp-faced weaving and clearly require significantly more warp than the finished weave, since you can see the warp wrap around the thick weft, but I’ve often heard that considering the extreme cases can give useful information about the general case.
The wool thread can be what knitters call "spit spliced" You fray out the ends a little bit then dampen them and briskly rub the old thread and the new one you are joining and they will make a secure felted join. I do this when I am knitting a wool sweater and want to join a new skein sometimes. No I don't use spit but I am sure they have. Great video, I had never seen that type of hem before. Very cool
If I remember correctly from a jewelry class, those can be called fibula pins if you want to find more info! (I don’t remember if that is the specific name for that type of wire pin or if that’s just a general name for a decorative pins and that’s the clasp we happened to use)
Also known as a diaper pin to those of us old enough to remember cloth diapers…except diaper pins had a tip on the end to keep you from poking the baby.
@@rebeccam.riordan7165 How did a guarded tip poke through the cloth though? Did the diapers have an eyelet? When I was taught to change my brothers' diapers the rule was just to aim the pin so it never pointed toward them, which could include pinching and twisting the cloth.
@@your3kidding Oh, I’m sorry. I left out a word. Diaper pins have a DULL tip. Now, it’s been decades since I’ve changed a cloth diaper, but I remember them being fairly loosely woven-not cheesecloth, but like the cotton towels you use for drying crystal-so the dull tip wasn’t an issue. But, it has been longer than I really like thinking about ;)
Wrote my bachelor essay on textile tools found in graves from the late iron age and weaving tablets where among the tools. I did explain how you use them (from reading books) but have never seen them been used! So this made me very happy!! So cool to see them in action!!
@@KahiFanyTaemin4ever I was 100% sure I answered this a year ago but well, well... You can find it online. I'm afraid it's written in Swedish. But if you want to look at it anyway it's called "Sy ända in i graven: Jämförelse mellan tre vikingatida gravfälts textilrelaterade fynd"
@@violenceislife1987 I was 100% sure I answered this a year ago but well, well... You can find it online. I'm afraid it's written in Swedish. But if you want to look at it anyway it's called "Sy ända in i graven: Jämförelse mellan tre vikingatida gravfälts textilrelaterade fynd"
Honestly, I would have been long-term intimidated by this project, too. Even though fabric is less dear today, if I've already put so much work into sewing something, I'm terrified of messing it up, lest I waste all my time already in it. Well done taking the plunge on this! The result looks great!
I did this method with a two-card TW braid around the cf and neckline opening of a handsewn 15th c. kirtle I made like ten years ago. I'm a fan -- while the dress itself has seen better days and while parts of the lining, eyelet holes, and some seams have failed, that front opening/neckline has not budged even a little bit through a decade of rough wear.
So... clearly I need to actually *read* my copies of Woven into the Earth and Medieval Garments Reconstructed, instead of just skimming and looking at the pictures.
@@MorganDonner It's so cool that we have access to these kinds of sources now. I remember my first attempts at Ren Faire costumes (almost 20 years ago, now), and all I had to work with were Simplicity patterns, Walmart fabric, and a mostly-busted sewing machine. It's not that the historical info didn't *exist* then - a lot of it did - but there weren't nearly as many blogs directing to obscure university texts back then, much less whole TH-cam channels full of detailed how-to videos. A project on my list now is to create an outfit based on inspo from 'Resplendent Dress from Southeastern Europe' by Elizabeth Wayland Barber and Barbara Belle Sloan (Elizabeth Barber also wrote 'Women's Work' which is one of my favorite books about the history of women and textile production). Resplendent Dress is *full* of pretty pictures! I'll finish my Herjolfnes dress first, though - it's a lot less complicated! I'm working on one based on D5674 right now - I want to try a couple different patterns to see how the fit varies across the different garment types :). I'll probably do a standard modern hem though - I'm not sure that I have 11 hours of patience to devote to historically accurate hem weaving!
This is such a fascinating means of weaving both to watch and do. I kinda wanna try it. I really like how the hem turned out, the kind of wonderfully useful detail that add to history of the dress. Olden times people had such creative and crafty ways!
This is really slick! I never knew I would want to spend 11 hours hemming a dress, but here I am looking at my fabric stash wondering what to turn into a skirt hem so I can try this technique out.
The HP Lovecraft Historical Society has 'Dark Adventure Radio Theater' where the have converted some of Lovecraft's stories into 1930s style radio plays with a full voice cast. They are a great and spooky way to have entertainment during Craft Time without having to raise your eyes to a screen.
Not only did it create a clean sturdy hem it saved the length of fabric that would have been needed to create a turned up hem. Conservation of materials baby! Loved this!
Wait, that's the thing I have? I got a box of random knitting stuff from my grandma about five years ago, and have been slowly figureing out what the heck all of it is ever since
I only just recently went to the minnesota weaver's guild and learned a lot about looms and such, so i was probably more excited than i should have been to see this part of the project. My family owns sheep and we have tools for carding (manual and automatic), a spinning wheel, and now a loom. I'm always excited to learn more about these more hands-on projects, and i've found that they are very relaxing once you get into a rhythm.
I live in Minnesota! Never heard of the weaver's guild lol. You have all of these tools? Do u also live in Minnesota? I want a loom so badly. I do not have sheep tho lol maybe some day.
@@kiarakeeper2154 Weaver's guild: I learned about them this year. They normally teach classes on looms, spinning (wheel and drop spindle), plant based dye, and other things. If you're a member, you can also get access to their massive library on the different skills as well as textile history and costume making and more. Tools: My mother had a spinning wheel from her college years. She bought a loom from an estate sale when she retired. I have a kid's toy loom, but i tend to pick up these skills faster than her so we start a skill together and see what sticks. I also do tatting, knitting, crocheting, hand sewing, etc. My mother does embroidery but i haven't quite gotten to the point where i enjoy it yet. Minnesota: Yes, born and raised. Sheep: My mother always wanted sheep. We've sold their fleece to a neighbor for a number of years but this was the first year that we kept the fleece back for our own use.
Catelyn, you've just found a whole world of interesting things to do for the rest of your life! Welcome to weaving, spinning and dyeing: jump right in and see where it takes you, you'll love it! I recommend joining a Guild because you'll get so much encouragement and information, support and fun, and through knowing one thing or person or process, you'll discover another. Congratulations! Katherine from Kent, UK (beginner weaver of 20 years, spinner, and I won't touch dyeing cos I already have too many unfinished projects on the go!!)
@@Cellottia i've started making my own clothes (target era around 1400-1500's and found that the weaver's guild has a LOT on historical textiles and clothing so i'm excited to go back when they really open their doors again
This is so funny. I fell down the youtube hole of card weaving and figured out how it works just hours before you posted this. I didn't even realize it was a new video at first I just thought "huh must've missed this one and it only played it now because of the card weaving." I really love the look of the finished hem!
When I used to have Venetian blinds, I would do this to the cords so they didn't hang down and tempt the cats to play with them. You can't cut them, as you need the length to use them fully. Keeping cats from messing with v. blinds was a challenge for a while, until I gave up using them.
Daaaaaamn this really has me wanting to take up tablet weaving as well (on top of watercolour painting ,drawing, sewing, trying to finish a masters degree, crochet, knitting). It looks amazing!
@@MorganDonner Especially all the things that do not involve doing dishes or cooking food (except when it's LARP in-character food in a hanging pan over open fire), or you know, basic human functioning stuff :P The weirder the better!
I do the same thing XD I'm trying to finish my engineering degree, but my brain keeps forcing me to pick up new crafts... Have you heard of nålbindning (needlebinding) yet? It's the pre-cursor to knitting and I'm trying to not learn it. It's not going so well for me so far...
@@matildas3177 Good luck with your degree! And yes, I've already made nalbinding mittens for myself. Too bad the winters are not cold enough for me to actually use them, but they turned out amazing.
@@matildas3177 wow that sounds very interesting. As I used to tell my daughter when she was doing her engineering degree taking a half hour off to be creative is good for your brain!! Breaks are good. Now I have to fight the need to look up and learn all about this needle art. I have at least half a dozen projects on hold, a ridiculous number of masks to make and a kitchen that looks like a dump cause boys. I just have to remember to stay on target and stop looking up new things!!!
It's from www.idodeclareshop.com/! I think she only does short runs of the various dresses she makes, but keep an eye on it, maybe her next dress will be the perfect one for you! ❤
@@MorganDonner i too need that dress in my life, you wear that dress stunningly and i adore the big puffy sleeves!!, where there any films you watched while doing this hem that truely distracted you from the project?
@@MorganDonner Can you tell me if the fabric criss-cross under the bust is affixed to the side seam or what? Looks like she is sold out, and I've been trying to figure out how to do a cross front dress like that for ages!
I saw the notification for this video when I was at work and I said "oooh!" and my coworker asked what I was ooh-ing about... The look on her face when I said it's a video of how to weave a 15th century hem was priceless. She just said "well that sounds useful."
I have stitch holders for knitting that look like your "homemade safety pin." It always amazes me how "old" designs stay around and develop new life and applications.
REALLY interesting to see how a similar practice crops up in the victorian era, with braid and brush braid sewn to the hems of walking skirts (ahem, just outing myself as having recently binge-watched bernadette banner videos, nothing to see here :D )
@@ameliamg9549 I would bet my left foot on it. They always looked for colour and patterns back then. So when you already have to weave a band, why not make it colourful? It's not much more work.
To emphasize the amazingness that chain stitching your warp is: I made a 740” warp to make towels for a craft sale last week and it fantastically shortened the warp and made setting up my loom so much easier
Chaining a warp is a great way to move all those threads from the warping board (or any other measuring device) to the loom. Try putting choke ties every 18" or so along the measured warp before chaining. I gather you know how to weave. No beginner starts with linen 740" long! My reply was aimed at the "new to the craft".
@@Lady_dromeda We were taught about choke ties with the warning that we DID NOT want to drop the uncontrolled, measured warp on the floor. Just the mental picture made me cringe!
So cool. Something new to add to my craft. I love the Supervisor you had there at the end. That's how it works at my house. I can't complain if it doesn't come with some fur it wasn't made with love. Lol. We won't tell. Lol
I am fascinated by seamstresses/tailoring/weaving/etc but I have issues with my hands (carpal tunnel/arthritis/etc) so practically I can't follow along. But I can totally see cosplayers using these techniques. Your dress especially the sleeves and the neckline reminds me of Portia Devorak's Masquerade outfit and it gives me serotonin to think that it is possible for people to make clothes without purchasing them from shady places.
I didn't have a hem to weave but I was intrigued. I've never heard of weaving a hem. Amazing. I wouldn't even have known to weave your hem. So impressed. Thanks.
Ooo that is fascinating!! And based on Danielle St. John’s comment, I’m wondering what it would look like if you used two or three warp colors for funsies! Also, is that your Aziraphale chemise perking our from your dress? Is cute! Especially with the dress, hair, and accessories.
This would be SO COOL with different colors in the hem. I was matching the original, but I think I recall that one of the other Greenland garments had red-dyed threads in its hem? Yes, it is totally my 1890's Aziraphale chemise! Its handy as a shift under every-day dresses too :D
This really makes a garment “effortless” meaning it’s a “set it and forget it” kind of way. Labour in the construction offsets the ease of wear and the ease of care later. It would be comparable to the “progress” of printing a garment all-together as one piece and then being somewhat indestructible by normal wear and mindful washing/ care. Thank you for this I think I’d like to use it on witch hats I’m planning to make out of wool suiting (might be a 5 year plan here! Incubation period is still an achievement: mastery over dread and intimidation amirite?) Getting good at this might show really well on a brim edge and might be decorative and a mark of skill and care if I can achieve evenness...
If you're really into yarn crafts in general, like knitting and crochet, and with your dedication to historical reconstructions and ancient techniques, might I suggest looking into nalbinding??? The precursor to both knitting and crochet! The craft that those ancient Viking socks and gloves in museums are made with! Of course, no pressure, but I thought it might be something interesting for you look into!
It's amazing how you learn about something that and you are itching to try it and suddenly you find it being shown everywhere. I have always wanted to by a weaving loom and I just found out about the card weaving and I've been itching to try
You can do it! Backstrap weaving techniques like card weaving tend to be very minimalist in terms of required equipment, and can be as simple or as complex as you wish.
Hi! If you're still looking for tablet weaving tutorials, I highly recommend elewys of finchingefeld! She has a very beginner friendly video series here on youtube (“weave along with elewys“). Each video covers a different historical pattern and contains all the info you need to replicate it at home!
Fun fact: that "chain stitch" you used at 2:15 is also used on construction sites to prevent extension cords from tangling in storage. Applicable to many fields of work!
Morgan is such a good editor. She has this cozy vibe that just makes me want to watch her do anything! Also, I am going to try this weaving a raw edge but not on a perfect recreation of a thousand year old dress; probably on a blanket.
Thank you for showing this old finishing technique! It's always exciting to learn different ways of finishing hems. Now, to come up with a project where I can use it... xD
@@MorganDonner Somebody needs to make a tapestry embroidery of the hounds. At least the one from this video has a shape that would look great in a medieval style. (I haven't seen the other one yet. :( In which video does he/she appear?) irisharchaeology.ie/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/dogs-bayeux-tapestry.jpg
Shear the sheep, wash and card the wool, spin the thread and weave the fabric. If your household had to do all these steps before making a garment, the dress or other garment have a lot more value than what we put on a garment today. That is a lovely way to finish a hem, giving it a nice weight to the skirt.
The variety of weaving you do with tablets is what I love about them. I have joint issues that make it easier for me to weave on a loom, but I have done woven hems before and it's very soothing. I'm really tempted to play around with 4 thread hems with 2 colours and maybe some fun turnings for a bit of a pattern. It wouldn't be as sturdy but It would look interesting/
@@MorganDonner with some designs the warp thread float for a pick or two so there won't be as much consistent support but I think with a pattern without tons of float it should be fine. Besides it gives me an excuse to do the Freya motif sets. I have already been working on weaving straps for a pinafore/apron dress so a decorative hem might just be the perfect finishing touch. Thank you for the inspiration and clear instructions!
@@johannageisel5390 I get most of my patterns from twistedthreads though I'm saving up to get Tablets at Work by Claudia Wollny because she goes over how the different techniques work in a way that makes sense to my brain. Honestly it doesn't even have to be a thin band if I want it mainly for decoration and added weight. I also use cotton 8/2 thread as I am allergic to lanolin so the bands are quite a bit thinner than if you make them with wool. I'll have to go through my thread stash and see what colours I can play with.
I love tablet weaving, it's so much fun! I've only ever done colourful straps and belts with it, though, not stitching the weft through a hem, so this was a cool new technique to me. For weaving bands with tablet weaving, Elwys of Finchingeheld has some a really great videos here on youtube. She's amazing, and I've picked up so many little tips from watching her weave.
I have to admit that I was very excited to see the needles and pins that I make actually being used! Eeeee! I have lots of positive feedback on them, and I use them myself, but it was fun to be able to go, “Wait, what? I made those! Lol! Have a great week!
I picked up card weaving last year, but haven't tried using it on a hem yet - maybe for a future project! I like to hold my cards together with a binder clip when I'm not weaving; it keeps them nice and secure. (Also that red dress is stunning - where's it from?)
@@carolineconnelly8620 When I checked it was because the end parenthesis was part of the url. If you get rid of the ")" at the end of the link it takes you to the shop. They have some wonderful outfits!
Oooh! I learned to weave bands with cards a while ago, but I didn't know about this finishing technique, and now I'm so eager to try it! Thanks! Can't wait to see the fully finished dress, too. :D
If wrapping thread around your table isn't possible, you can get 2 warping clamp (and peg). It's what it sounds like - a clamp for your flat surface that has a peg you can slot into it. They (you buy 2 of them, obviously) can be spaced a set length apart and you wrap your thread/yarn/cording around them and they're great. They're used by fibre workers (spinners, weavers, braiders, cordage makers, dressmakers, etc.) who need long lengths of threads/rope/fibre.
Usually, for tablet weaving I calculate the amount of yard I need. In cm, I multiply the amount of yard I need by 1,2 and then add around 30 to 50 cm for the "end space", where you have space to weave the last few cm of the hem. For reference, for weaving on a normal loom, it is the length that runs from the back of the loom, where you tie the warp to the back beam to the approximate space where you end your weft. I also find it quite useful to warp it on a warping board. They are very easy to make... (Mr. Donner?), but I weave a lot to warrant having one.
Yes, warping boards are so expensive and making your own is definitely the way to go. Check out the various yarn sites to get an idea of where to start.
I seriously love the red dress you are wearing. It is beautiful!!!!! The project is cool in so many ways, too. This hem has to be super durable, substantial, elegant, and way, way too serious!
Wow this looks so cool!!! I just watched a video about card weaving, but this was so intimidating that I couldn't imagine doing it, this seems so much more accessible. Maybe my next Victorian walking skirt will have a woven edge instead of my usual twill tape edge.
I’m still wrapping my head around this. Fascinating. I’m struggling with the why to do it this way, it’s seems more labor intensive than folding the fabric to encase the raw edge... you could weave a hem tape and apply it for much the same effect... I imagine with practice you could create different decorative patterns. I have a feeling I’m going to be pondering this one for quite a while. Thank you for sharing your exploration into historical practice.
Tablet weaving is an ancient weaving art which is wonderful for creating borders, hems and belts. I should imagine that using plain warp threads would just make the hem a bit more robust than finishing in the usual way
I agree on both points. That's part of why I wanted to give it a try, perhaps wearing it for a couple years during camping and such may reveal insights that I don't currently see.
I believe the best reason for using tablet weaving instead of just folding the cloth over would be the opportunity for patterns. There are just SO. MANY. PATTERNS. out there for tablet weavers! By using some colored threads, they would be able to adorn their garments in a way that would otherwise only be possible by embroidery. And when you wove the band separately and then sewed it on, you would have to do at least the same amount of stitches. If you can weave a row and sew it to the garment in one go, it might actually save you time.
This is a really cool project. I've loved your recentish deep dives into experimental Archaeology, especially this one and the hair pin one. Also, your dress is awesome and suits you so well!
Morgan, I feel so called out. I have 3 or 4 skirts and dresses that I have left for 2-3 years that need to be hemmed. Thank you for reminding me of that!
That is so fabulous! I can picture that hem binding in a gorgeous contrast color, as well. It definitely looks like one of those techniques that you can't wrap your head around until you just try it, and would definitely cause beginner anxiety! Good on you for conquering your doubts and giving it a (very successful) whirl!
Anyone else catching the first glimpse of Miss Morgan's lovely dress like **need to make similar dress with those beautiful Christmas-y sleeves increasing**
Modern Tailor: "To finish the hem, just fold it over twice and sew it together. Medieval Tailor: "Send in a woman with some thread to slave over for 15 hours. It's cheaper. "
@@bonniehyden962 It's all conjecture, the simplest explation would be what was said in the video - it creates a sturdy but decorative hem without wasting some inches of fabric. The other reason could also be that the woman were already used to weaving (especially in Skandinavian countries homeweaving was a thing) so making this kind of woven finish was intuitive for them.
If the brush braids sewn on the hems of Victorian walking skirts are a good comparison, it’s to avoid wear and tear on the main fabric of the skirt, which is a lot harder to replace than a narrow ribbon. And since they already had to weave the ribbon by hand anyway, why not weave it and sew it to the hem at the same time? It looks good, is probably a less bulky way to completely enclose the raw edge of the skirt, and may even save some time.
If you live in a country that gets maybe 4-6 hours or less of daylight in winter (if any at all depending on how far north you live) you will do anything to keep busy and not go insane. All joking aside, a ribbon like that is probably more durable and since all the fabric was mostly homespun anyway it doesn't make much of a difference if you spend the time weaving some extra inches of the main fabric and then sewing the hem or doing it like in the video.
Hey Morgan, do you know if when people's hems wore out back then, would they ever cut it off and piece a new strip of fabric along the bottom? it seems like a logical thing to do to make a dress last longer, but then maybe it was seen as deeply uncool? I flipping love your videos, every time you use a tool that was unearthed on an archaeological dig it blows my mind!!!
We do have visual evidence from manuscripts and such of a different color at the hem sometimes, but I feel like it was often on fancy dress, and meant to indicate fur. That said, it certainly seems possible.
Time intensive, but I could see it being somewhat meditative too. What a cool way to finish the hem. It's always cool to see a different technique. Thanks for sharing.
Awww tablet weaving! Why I never thought about searching for video tutorials? I wanted to try that technique (not for hems but bands and tapes) for years now, but couldnt figure out the written instructions. Your video was really helpful. Yes its not a "tutorial" but it was enough to unwind my brain. Now I need some wool and tablets to try it myself
Hi! If you're still looking for tablet weaving tutorials, I highly recommend elewys of finchingefeld! She has a very beginner friendly video series here on youtube (“weave along with elewys“). Each video covers a different historical pattern and contains all the info you need to replicate it at home!
I love this!! The fact that it will felt over time is great. Sort of a cross between sock darning and sergeing. I really enjoy your vlogs and the great research/results. An amazing way to get the brain thinking!!
I've been working on tablet weaving on a makeshift loom (my clothes airer) with cardboard tablets, because another craft is always interesting?? This method looks like a mix of 'modern' tablet weaving style and sewing - very cool!
I have watched videos of card weaving and found the instructions above my current skill level, did not answer questions about making it longer and did not leave me wanting to ask for more information. Needless to say, one visit to that person's youtube was enough. You, however, quickly answered lots of my original questions and let me know you were figuring parts of this out as you went along. Now it's just another craft to play with like all the others I have learned in my long life. I learned as a child that you would get a number of ways to do almost anything if you just asked different people because most people didn't have books with the how tos set in stone. We've lost the freedom to explore and play with things these days. You and your friends who do the recreations have gone back and found that. I would join you but I have neither the energy or money at this point in my life to enjoy it. I do make clothing that is different that borders on costume and wear them in my very small town. I am probably known as that crazy old lady that live over there but I don't have time to care about that. Keep learning and having fun.
I am so excited to see this video, as I have been dreading starting on a herjolfsnes dress for the hems. There are diagrams in the book "Medieval Garments Reconstructed ", but they looked Greek to me! Thank you so much for this video, as I can now get to work on mine and my fiance's wedding attire! (I am making myself the same dress as the one depicted in this video, him the buttoned houppeland from the same find.)
Knitters could use a stitch holder instead of your makeshift safety pin. (basically the same shape). What an interesting combination of sewing and card weaving!
@@MorganDonner its a royal pain, but it looks lovely, especially if you make a double faced weave with a pattern, you get this gorgeous sturdy finish that makes the garment look so much fancier as there's barely a visible stitch on the hem(id like to think that some nobles insisted on it but I have no evidence to back it up)
Are you talking about where you tablet weave the band and leave long weft fringe on one side that then becomes the (already nicely spaced) warp for weaving a cloth? Or something else?
@@Awulle or visa versa, you can take a finished fabric, pick out some of the threads so you have some loose threads at around twice the length of your intended band, set up your tablet weaving adjacent and use the threads from the fabric as the weft. Its super finneky, but you get a really nice edge on fabric obviously it's perhaps not reccomended for super fine material, but if you've got a fairly large weave fabric (like a woolen fabric) it's a neat way to finish. Especially if you don't have the means to weave your own fabric :)
I expect that after doing it many times, muscle memory would kick in and it would go much more quickly, the way experienced knitters fly through a piece of work.
@@alexreith4877 I believe its cow thigh bone, you can hollow it cut along one side and there is a way to straighten it (I remember watching someone do it at a viking reenactment but I dont remember the process)
YOU DID THE THING!!! I saw historical examples of this and how to do it in a histroical find book but couldn't figure out how to do it from the diagrams. Thank you sooo much for this video! Life saver!
That was very interesting! I started tablet weaving not to long ago, and made some really awesome bands already. I had considered using them to decorate and strengthen the hem, but I thought I would have to stitch it on later. (This might be the best way to do it with a wider trim, because I'm not sure I could keep the tension right with a wider loom + stitching.) And I love the dark dress you are wearing and the red blouse. If you have made them I'd love the patterns
You could totally weave the trim separately and apply it afterward. In fact, I think that would be easier - I only did it this way because I wanted to try replicating the way it was done for this specific gown. The red dress is from idodeclareshop.com and the black dress is from eShakti.
I've been researching tablet weaving recently! Are you reading my mind? I am about to make the cards to try for myself. Never thought to stitch it in while weaving. For length of warp, I've read that you should do: (1.2*[desired end length]) + 50cm. For your project, it would need to be 187.8 inches long.
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Me halfway through this video: "Oh s***, is this one of the origins of serging?" it looks much nicer than a serged hem would, though.
Totally functionally similar!
Exactly my thoughts! Medieval serging, only better because it eventually felts down into a single solid hem that won't come loose or unpick itself if snagged. A process you could always encourage with a wee bit of strategic and very localized wet agitation or steam ironing.
When someone gets good with this form off weaving- they can make belts and straps of any kind.
Think 1960s guitar straps with very colorful designs.
I've seen this when I was at SCA events and it seemed so complicated the first few times I saw this done.
it reminded me of the woven hem braid that victorians would put on their skirts to protect the hem. serging makes sense too though!
SAME!!!
Watching you try ancient techniques and tools is gratifying. Your instructions are always so clear and well illustrated as you film them.
Thanks so much 😊
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I weave and it took me a solid minute to wrap my head around out how this would work out. I love learning about how people used to design more sustainability into their clothing. I wish we could get back to that way of thinking and away from fast fashion. Can't wait to see the final dress! I'm basing my decision of recreating it myself on your final thoughts.
I am NOT a weaver and it took me a year, so that sounds about right 😂. Making clothes to last is such a good goal, I hope more folks consider it!
I have sworn off fast fashion for about 8 months now and am making my clothes. Means that I have to plan and consciously think about my wardrobe. Very interesting process and my clothes fit so nicely.
@@MorganDonner ive been accumulating old clothes for AGES to remake, but now that its become, uh, an unhinged mess of stash, its time to tackle it. i actually have a piece of fabric in the stash that will have to get this hem treatment, and ive been saving that tablecloth for a project for more than a decade. a lot of the denim ive saved will become pants and skirts that will fit me at a range of sizes. the number of jeans that NEVER fit that ive gathered through the years is ridiculous. ive got an old damaged quilt that will become a petticoat.
Clothes that FIT! Clothes that LAST! Clothes with POCKETS! the future is the past and its NOW.
@@OopzyDayzy Ever consider making a quilt from all the old jeans? Good sized squares of all that well washed, soft, denim; tied quilting, not those itty, bitty stitches.
We will. I have a pile of darning to do, and haven’t bought a new garment in 10 months.
Weaving tip. When calculating warp length remember that weaving is three dimensional, which means allowing for the bending of warp around weft - which takes more length of yarn than the flat tape measurement of your skirt diameter. So be generous with your “bit extra.” Better to have some waste at the end than to end up too short. In floor loom weaving we consider the desired dimensions of the finished cloth + take-up (what I just mentioned) + shrinkage after washing for both warp and weft, and also loom waste for the warp. Obviously, for your project it wouldn’t need to be so complicated, since there are so few threads involved, and you have virtually no loom waste with the card weaving. Enjoyed the video very much. You did a great job explaining the process, and made it seem very straightforward. Thanks!
I assume that warp-faced techniques like tablet weaving require more “extra” warp than weft-faced ones. Grosgrain is a more extreme example of warp-faced weaving and clearly require significantly more warp than the finished weave, since you can see the warp wrap around the thick weft, but I’ve often heard that considering the extreme cases can give useful information about the general case.
in other types of weaving/braiding, you add a third more to account for the three dimensions.
The wool thread can be what knitters call "spit spliced" You fray out the ends a little bit then dampen them and briskly rub the old thread and the new one you are joining and they will make a secure felted join. I do this when I am knitting a wool sweater and want to join a new skein sometimes. No I don't use spit but I am sure they have. Great video, I had never seen that type of hem before. Very cool
I love factual and practicable advice.
Thanks for this bit of info.
Sadly im useing a type of yarn that is not abele to do that
Personally I'd just weaver- knot the ends together. Who's going to see a tiny knot in the filler?
Great Idea!!!
They used to use ear wax to wax their thread, you know spit was used 😂
I was so invested in the plot development of your homemade safety pins that the actual point of the video went over my head. Time to watch it again!
🤣🤣🤣
If I remember correctly from a jewelry class, those can be called fibula pins if you want to find more info! (I don’t remember if that is the specific name for that type of wire pin or if that’s just a general name for a decorative pins and that’s the clasp we happened to use)
Also known as a diaper pin to those of us old enough to remember cloth diapers…except diaper pins had a tip on the end to keep you from poking the baby.
@@rebeccam.riordan7165 How did a guarded tip poke through the cloth though? Did the diapers have an eyelet?
When I was taught to change my brothers' diapers the rule was just to aim the pin so it never pointed toward them, which could include pinching and twisting the cloth.
@@your3kidding Oh, I’m sorry. I left out a word. Diaper pins have a DULL tip. Now, it’s been decades since I’ve changed a cloth diaper, but I remember them being fairly loosely woven-not cheesecloth, but like the cotton towels you use for drying crystal-so the dull tip wasn’t an issue. But, it has been longer than I really like thinking about ;)
That is just *neat*. That would be an awesome way to add decoration to a hem, too!
Absolutely, it adds an interesting texture!
@@MorganDonner Even with just two colors per card you could do a few fun things.
@@Awulle i mean, you can go full 4 colours and make an actual pattern with more cards.
Wrote my bachelor essay on textile tools found in graves from the late iron age and weaving tablets where among the tools. I did explain how you use them (from reading books) but have never seen them been used! So this made me very happy!! So cool to see them in action!!
What a fabulous topic for your essay!
I would like to read it.
Same, would love to read it! Is it available online anywhere?
@@KahiFanyTaemin4ever I was 100% sure I answered this a year ago but well, well...
You can find it online. I'm afraid it's written in Swedish. But if you want to look at it anyway it's called "Sy ända in i graven: Jämförelse mellan tre vikingatida gravfälts textilrelaterade fynd"
@@violenceislife1987 I was 100% sure I answered this a year ago but well, well...
You can find it online. I'm afraid it's written in Swedish. But if you want to look at it anyway it's called "Sy ända in i graven: Jämförelse mellan tre vikingatida gravfälts textilrelaterade fynd"
Honestly, I would have been long-term intimidated by this project, too. Even though fabric is less dear today, if I've already put so much work into sewing something, I'm terrified of messing it up, lest I waste all my time already in it. Well done taking the plunge on this! The result looks great!
:D I am glad I gave it a try and stuck with it. Tricky but worth it!
I did this method with a two-card TW braid around the cf and neckline opening of a handsewn 15th c. kirtle I made like ten years ago. I'm a fan -- while the dress itself has seen better days and while parts of the lining, eyelet holes, and some seams have failed, that front opening/neckline has not budged even a little bit through a decade of rough wear.
That sounds promising! Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks, I think cuffs and neckline would be the perfect place to try this!!!
So... clearly I need to actually *read* my copies of Woven into the Earth and Medieval Garments Reconstructed, instead of just skimming and looking at the pictures.
They are SUCH good books!
@@MorganDonner It's so cool that we have access to these kinds of sources now. I remember my first attempts at Ren Faire costumes (almost 20 years ago, now), and all I had to work with were Simplicity patterns, Walmart fabric, and a mostly-busted sewing machine. It's not that the historical info didn't *exist* then - a lot of it did - but there weren't nearly as many blogs directing to obscure university texts back then, much less whole TH-cam channels full of detailed how-to videos. A project on my list now is to create an outfit based on inspo from 'Resplendent Dress from Southeastern Europe' by Elizabeth Wayland Barber and Barbara Belle Sloan (Elizabeth Barber also wrote 'Women's Work' which is one of my favorite books about the history of women and textile production). Resplendent Dress is *full* of pretty pictures! I'll finish my Herjolfnes dress first, though - it's a lot less complicated! I'm working on one based on D5674 right now - I want to try a couple different patterns to see how the fit varies across the different garment types :). I'll probably do a standard modern hem though - I'm not sure that I have 11 hours of patience to devote to historically accurate hem weaving!
Thats just crazy talk
This is such a fascinating means of weaving both to watch and do. I kinda wanna try it. I really like how the hem turned out, the kind of wonderfully useful detail that add to history of the dress. Olden times people had such creative and crafty ways!
It's really a clever way to reinforce the edge, they are absolutely crafty folk!
Maybe You could also make a garment longer by adding a broader "hem".
This is really slick! I never knew I would want to spend 11 hours hemming a dress, but here I am looking at my fabric stash wondering what to turn into a skirt hem so I can try this technique out.
The HP Lovecraft Historical Society has 'Dark Adventure Radio Theater' where the have converted some of Lovecraft's stories into 1930s style radio plays with a full voice cast. They are a great and spooky way to have entertainment during Craft Time without having to raise your eyes to a screen.
Not only did it create a clean sturdy hem it saved the length of fabric that would have been needed to create a turned up hem. Conservation of materials baby! Loved this!
Morgan: I'm making essentially a safety pin.
Me: she made a stitch holder. It's prettier than mine and sssshhhharp. Yup.
My first thought was a stitch holder too ☺️
Me too...is it because we were all knitters before we got into this? :)
Wait, that's the thing I have? I got a box of random knitting stuff from my grandma about five years ago, and have been slowly figureing out what the heck all of it is ever since
@@CyreneDuVent 😂😂😂
I only just recently went to the minnesota weaver's guild and learned a lot about looms and such, so i was probably more excited than i should have been to see this part of the project.
My family owns sheep and we have tools for carding (manual and automatic), a spinning wheel, and now a loom. I'm always excited to learn more about these more hands-on projects, and i've found that they are very relaxing once you get into a rhythm.
I know i'm not special for having it, but i made the ugliest noise when i saw that i got a heart for the comment. Sure made my day
I live in Minnesota! Never heard of the weaver's guild lol.
You have all of these tools? Do u also live in Minnesota? I want a loom so badly. I do not have sheep tho lol maybe some day.
@@kiarakeeper2154
Weaver's guild:
I learned about them this year. They normally teach classes on looms, spinning (wheel and drop spindle), plant based dye, and other things. If you're a member, you can also get access to their massive library on the different skills as well as textile history and costume making and more.
Tools:
My mother had a spinning wheel from her college years. She bought a loom from an estate sale when she retired. I have a kid's toy loom, but i tend to pick up these skills faster than her so we start a skill together and see what sticks. I also do tatting, knitting, crocheting, hand sewing, etc. My mother does embroidery but i haven't quite gotten to the point where i enjoy it yet.
Minnesota:
Yes, born and raised.
Sheep:
My mother always wanted sheep. We've sold their fleece to a neighbor for a number of years but this was the first year that we kept the fleece back for our own use.
Catelyn, you've just found a whole world of interesting things to do for the rest of your life! Welcome to weaving, spinning and dyeing: jump right in and see where it takes you, you'll love it! I recommend joining a Guild because you'll get so much encouragement and information, support and fun, and through knowing one thing or person or process, you'll discover another. Congratulations! Katherine from Kent, UK (beginner weaver of 20 years, spinner, and I won't touch dyeing cos I already have too many unfinished projects on the go!!)
@@Cellottia i've started making my own clothes (target era around 1400-1500's and found that the weaver's guild has a LOT on historical textiles and clothing so i'm excited to go back when they really open their doors again
This is so funny. I fell down the youtube hole of card weaving and figured out how it works just hours before you posted this. I didn't even realize it was a new video at first I just thought "huh must've missed this one and it only played it now because of the card weaving." I really love the look of the finished hem!
Kilt pins look like a perfect size to "lock" the cards when setting the project down.
That crochet trick.....I cant believe I have never even thought of that when having some kind of tail that tangles. Thank you!
When I used to have Venetian blinds, I would do this to the cords so they didn't hang down and tempt the cats to play with them. You can't cut them, as you need the length to use them fully. Keeping cats from messing with v. blinds was a challenge for a while, until I gave up using them.
Daaaaaamn this really has me wanting to take up tablet weaving as well (on top of watercolour painting ,drawing, sewing, trying to finish a masters degree, crochet, knitting). It looks amazing!
Tell me about it 😅 Brains be like "LEARN ALL THE THINGS!"
@@MorganDonner Especially all the things that do not involve doing dishes or cooking food (except when it's LARP in-character food in a hanging pan over open fire), or you know, basic human functioning stuff :P The weirder the better!
I do the same thing XD I'm trying to finish my engineering degree, but my brain keeps forcing me to pick up new crafts... Have you heard of nålbindning (needlebinding) yet? It's the pre-cursor to knitting and I'm trying to not learn it. It's not going so well for me so far...
@@matildas3177 Good luck with your degree! And yes, I've already made nalbinding mittens for myself. Too bad the winters are not cold enough for me to actually use them, but they turned out amazing.
@@matildas3177 wow that sounds very interesting. As I used to tell my daughter when she was doing her engineering degree taking a half hour off to be creative is good for your brain!! Breaks are good. Now I have to fight the need to look up and learn all about this needle art. I have at least half a dozen projects on hold, a ridiculous number of masks to make and a kitchen that looks like a dump cause boys. I just have to remember to stay on target and stop looking up new things!!!
It's always great to see someone else playing with tablets! Wooo-hooo! Looks great. That's definitely something I want to try.
Omg what is that fabulous red dress you’re wearing? I need a dress like that in my life
It's from www.idodeclareshop.com/! I think she only does short runs of the various dresses she makes, but keep an eye on it, maybe her next dress will be the perfect one for you! ❤
@@MorganDonner i too need that dress in my life, you wear that dress stunningly and i adore the big puffy sleeves!!, where there any films you watched while doing this hem that truely distracted you from the project?
@@MorganDonner Shame she doesn’t do plus size, the style would look great on lots of body types!
@@MorganDonner Can you tell me if the fabric criss-cross under the bust is affixed to the side seam or what? Looks like she is sold out, and I've been trying to figure out how to do a cross front dress like that for ages!
I saw the notification for this video when I was at work and I said "oooh!" and my coworker asked what I was ooh-ing about... The look on her face when I said it's a video of how to weave a 15th century hem was priceless. She just said "well that sounds useful."
I have stitch holders for knitting that look like your "homemade safety pin." It always amazes me how "old" designs stay around and develop new life and applications.
REALLY interesting to see how a similar practice crops up in the victorian era, with braid and brush braid sewn to the hems of walking skirts (ahem, just outing myself as having recently binge-watched bernadette banner videos, nothing to see here :D )
also, i wonder if there are examples of using the woven hem for more elaborate designs and decorations! so many possibilities!
@@ameliamg9549 I would bet my left foot on it. They always looked for colour and patterns back then. So when you already have to weave a band, why not make it colourful? It's not much more work.
@@johannageisel5390 oh yeah, i know they did it - i meant, i wonder if there are surviving examples :)
To emphasize the amazingness that chain stitching your warp is: I made a 740” warp to make towels for a craft sale last week and it fantastically shortened the warp and made setting up my loom so much easier
That is awesome!
@@MorganDonner 😊 thanks. They’re linen towels, part of a three piece set with face cloths. The warp was super heavy (247 threads)
Chaining a warp is a great way to move all those threads from the warping board (or any other measuring device) to the loom. Try putting choke ties every 18" or so along the measured warp before chaining. I gather you know how to weave. No beginner starts with linen 740" long! My reply was aimed at the "new to the craft".
@@maryannerick7617 oh yeah, never forget the choke ties!
@@Lady_dromeda We were taught about choke ties with the warning that we DID NOT want to drop the uncontrolled, measured warp on the floor. Just the mental picture made me cringe!
whoo! our laurel queen of sewing is back 😍
A very fine and clear demonstration of a very obscure technique, found in more Viking garments (roughly 750ish to 1066 in the Nordic countries)
glad to see I'm not the only one who uses a crochet chain stitch to take up extra length :)
oh, and my bunny also likes to try to get pets by sticking his (much shorter) nose under whatever I'm working on...
So cool. Something new to add to my craft. I love the Supervisor you had there at the end. That's how it works at my house. I can't complain if it doesn't come with some fur it wasn't made with love. Lol. We won't tell. Lol
This dress is definitely COVERED in 'love' 🤣
Yay! A tablet weaving for historical costuming video! You did great!
This is a great way to edge quits and felt baskets. You can use decorative fabric strips or t-shirt yarn as your filler.
The big chain stitch keeping your yarn manageable is inspired.
I am fascinated by seamstresses/tailoring/weaving/etc but I have issues with my hands (carpal tunnel/arthritis/etc) so practically I can't follow along. But I can totally see cosplayers using these techniques. Your dress especially the sleeves and the neckline reminds me of Portia Devorak's Masquerade outfit and it gives me serotonin to think that it is possible for people to make clothes without purchasing them from shady places.
I didn't have a hem to weave but I was intrigued. I've never heard of weaving a hem. Amazing. I wouldn't even have known to weave your hem. So impressed. Thanks.
Ooo that is fascinating!! And based on Danielle St. John’s comment, I’m wondering what it would look like if you used two or three warp colors for funsies!
Also, is that your Aziraphale chemise perking our from your dress? Is cute! Especially with the dress, hair, and accessories.
This would be SO COOL with different colors in the hem. I was matching the original, but I think I recall that one of the other Greenland garments had red-dyed threads in its hem?
Yes, it is totally my 1890's Aziraphale chemise! Its handy as a shift under every-day dresses too :D
I'm not interested in making a dress, but now I definitely want to hem a wool blanket like this some day
This really makes a garment “effortless” meaning it’s a “set it and forget it” kind of way. Labour in the construction offsets the ease of wear and the ease of care later.
It would be comparable to the “progress” of printing a garment all-together as one piece and then being somewhat indestructible by normal wear and mindful washing/ care.
Thank you for this I think I’d like to use it on witch hats I’m planning to make out of wool suiting (might be a 5 year plan here! Incubation period is still an achievement: mastery over dread and intimidation amirite?)
Getting good at this might show really well on a brim edge and might be decorative and a mark of skill and care if I can achieve evenness...
This seems like the woven version of an i-cord edge, very cool!
If you're really into yarn crafts in general, like knitting and crochet, and with your dedication to historical reconstructions and ancient techniques, might I suggest looking into nalbinding??? The precursor to both knitting and crochet! The craft that those ancient Viking socks and gloves in museums are made with! Of course, no pressure, but I thought it might be something interesting for you look into!
Been thinking of trying this myself.
What a fascinating process. Thankyou for showing that woven hem.
It's amazing how you learn about something that and you are itching to try it and suddenly you find it being shown everywhere. I have always wanted to by a weaving loom and I just found out about the card weaving and I've been itching to try
You can do it! Backstrap weaving techniques like card weaving tend to be very minimalist in terms of required equipment, and can be as simple or as complex as you wish.
Hi! If you're still looking for tablet weaving tutorials, I highly recommend elewys of finchingefeld!
She has a very beginner friendly video series here on youtube (“weave along with elewys“). Each video covers a different historical pattern and contains all the info you need to replicate it at home!
Fun fact: that "chain stitch" you used at 2:15 is also used on construction sites to prevent extension cords from tangling in storage. Applicable to many fields of work!
Morgan is such a good editor. She has this cozy vibe that just makes me want to watch her do anything! Also, I am going to try this weaving a raw edge but not on a perfect recreation of a thousand year old dress; probably on a blanket.
Okay but Morgan is lookin SO GOOD in this dress! So flattering! Yaaass!!
🥰 Thank you sunshine!
It looks great! And you can just image people sitting by the fire doing this.
Also your dog is so cute!!
Dog was intently watching what Morgan was doing.
Thank you for showing this old finishing technique! It's always exciting to learn different ways of finishing hems. Now, to come up with a project where I can use it... xD
Love the little bit of oomph it adds to the hem, and sort of reminds me of the protective braiding you see on victorian walking skirts.
Absolutely functionally similar!
I'd like to formally thank Morgan for sending me down the rabbit hole of tablet weaving and starting a new obsession.
I love your videos. They are concise, informative, inspiring and seemingly professional. It's a treat to see your elegant hounds from time to time.
Glad you like them! (And they are the sweetest pups, I love when they join me for making.)
@@MorganDonner Somebody needs to make a tapestry embroidery of the hounds. At least the one from this video has a shape that would look great in a medieval style. (I haven't seen the other one yet. :( In which video does he/she appear?)
irisharchaeology.ie/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/dogs-bayeux-tapestry.jpg
Shear the sheep, wash and card the wool, spin the thread and weave the fabric. If your household had to do all these steps before making a garment, the dress or other garment have a lot more value than what we put on a garment today. That is a lovely way to finish a hem, giving it a nice weight to the skirt.
The variety of weaving you do with tablets is what I love about them. I have joint issues that make it easier for me to weave on a loom, but I have done woven hems before and it's very soothing. I'm really tempted to play around with 4 thread hems with 2 colours and maybe some fun turnings for a bit of a pattern. It wouldn't be as sturdy but It would look interesting/
That's a great idea! It sounds to me like it would be even more sturdy since you'll have more threads!
@@MorganDonner with some designs the warp thread float for a pick or two so there won't be as much consistent support but I think with a pattern without tons of float it should be fine. Besides it gives me an excuse to do the Freya motif sets. I have already been working on weaving straps for a pinafore/apron dress so a decorative hem might just be the perfect finishing touch. Thank you for the inspiration and clear instructions!
There are probably tons of patterns out there for narrow bands. And there doesn't seem to be anything different to normal tablet weaving.
@@MorganDonner I suppose it would be wider.
@@johannageisel5390 I get most of my patterns from twistedthreads though I'm saving up to get Tablets at Work by Claudia Wollny because she goes over how the different techniques work in a way that makes sense to my brain. Honestly it doesn't even have to be a thin band if I want it mainly for decoration and added weight. I also use cotton 8/2 thread as I am allergic to lanolin so the bands are quite a bit thinner than if you make them with wool. I'll have to go through my thread stash and see what colours I can play with.
Holy crap that’s Nuts and so so complicated! Kudos!!
I love tablet weaving, it's so much fun! I've only ever done colourful straps and belts with it, though, not stitching the weft through a hem, so this was a cool new technique to me.
For weaving bands with tablet weaving, Elwys of Finchingeheld has some a really great videos here on youtube. She's amazing, and I've picked up so many little tips from watching her weave.
I have to admit that I was very excited to see the needles and pins that I make actually being used! Eeeee! I have lots of positive feedback on them, and I use them myself, but it was fun to be able to go, “Wait, what? I made those! Lol! Have a great week!
I picked up card weaving last year, but haven't tried using it on a hem yet - maybe for a future project! I like to hold my cards together with a binder clip when I'm not weaving; it keeps them nice and secure. (Also that red dress is stunning - where's it from?)
Ooo, a binder clip is a great idea! (It's from www.idodeclareshop.com/)
@@MorganDonner page 404 error on I do declare site
@@carolineconnelly8620 When I checked it was because the end parenthesis was part of the url. If you get rid of the ")" at the end of the link it takes you to the shop.
They have some wonderful outfits!
Thanks. I’m on a tablet in the YT app, so I can’t edit the URL (or copy & paste it). I appreciate the heads up. 👍🏽
You can also run a double point knitting needle through the card holes. Makes turning the cards easier.
I am sufficiently intimidated! You did a nice job with it!
Oooh! I learned to weave bands with cards a while ago, but I didn't know about this finishing technique, and now I'm so eager to try it! Thanks! Can't wait to see the fully finished dress, too. :D
Congrats on winning yarn chicken! Your "safety pin" looks like a finer, sharper version of my knitting stich holder.
If wrapping thread around your table isn't possible, you can get 2 warping clamp (and peg). It's what it sounds like - a clamp for your flat surface that has a peg you can slot into it. They (you buy 2 of them, obviously) can be spaced a set length apart and you wrap your thread/yarn/cording around them and they're great. They're used by fibre workers (spinners, weavers, braiders, cordage makers, dressmakers, etc.) who need long lengths of threads/rope/fibre.
I’ve c-clamped two wooden spoons to a table to do a similar thing.
You can also place two ladder-back chairs some distance (whatever you need) apart and measure your warp.
I love how you enunciate each syllable so that every word is understood clearly. 😊
Usually, for tablet weaving I calculate the amount of yard I need. In cm, I multiply the amount of yard I need by 1,2 and then add around 30 to 50 cm for the "end space", where you have space to weave the last few cm of the hem. For reference, for weaving on a normal loom, it is the length that runs from the back of the loom, where you tie the warp to the back beam to the approximate space where you end your weft.
I also find it quite useful to warp it on a warping board. They are very easy to make... (Mr. Donner?), but I weave a lot to warrant having one.
Yes, warping boards are so expensive and making your own is definitely the way to go. Check out the various yarn sites to get an idea of where to start.
I seriously love the red dress you are wearing. It is beautiful!!!!! The project is cool in so many ways, too. This hem has to be super durable, substantial, elegant, and way, way too serious!
Wow this looks so cool!!! I just watched a video about card weaving, but this was so intimidating that I couldn't imagine doing it, this seems so much more accessible. Maybe my next Victorian walking skirt will have a woven edge instead of my usual twill tape edge.
Ohhh, that would be so cool, and what a time-period mix!
Make tablet weaving mainstream! It's one of the most amazing and accessible forms of weaving 🥰
I’m still wrapping my head around this. Fascinating. I’m struggling with the why to do it this way, it’s seems more labor intensive than folding the fabric to encase the raw edge... you could weave a hem tape and apply it for much the same effect... I imagine with practice you could create different decorative patterns. I have a feeling I’m going to be pondering this one for quite a while. Thank you for sharing your exploration into historical practice.
Tablet weaving is an ancient weaving art which is wonderful for creating borders, hems and belts. I should imagine that using plain warp threads would just make the hem a bit more robust than finishing in the usual way
I agree on both points. That's part of why I wanted to give it a try, perhaps wearing it for a couple years during camping and such may reveal insights that I don't currently see.
I’m with you, Rebecca!
Also perhaps the simultaneous weave/sew directly onto the edge is sturdier, somehow?
I believe the best reason for using tablet weaving instead of just folding the cloth over would be the opportunity for patterns.
There are just SO. MANY. PATTERNS. out there for tablet weavers!
By using some colored threads, they would be able to adorn their garments in a way that would otherwise only be possible by embroidery.
And when you wove the band separately and then sewed it on, you would have to do at least the same amount of stitches. If you can weave a row and sew it to the garment in one go, it might actually save you time.
Thank you! Will no longer be shy of trying this weaving/hemming method!
This is a really cool project. I've loved your recentish deep dives into experimental Archaeology, especially this one and the hair pin one.
Also, your dress is awesome and suits you so well!
Those cards are awesome! It's like a tape loom without the actual loom! So cool! Now I want to try this
Who needs a loom when backstrap weaving is a thing?
@@ragnkja that's also something I haven't tried, I've only seen photos of a friend trying it
@@kkcliffy2952
It’s pretty easy to tension it: just lean back a little bit, until it feels about right.
What a fantastic project! Thank you for being brave and sharing your learning process with us. 😀
Oh thank you!
Morgan, I feel so called out. I have 3 or 4 skirts and dresses that I have left for 2-3 years that need to be hemmed. Thank you for reminding me of that!
That is so fabulous! I can picture that hem binding in a gorgeous contrast color, as well. It definitely looks like one of those techniques that you can't wrap your head around until you just try it, and would definitely cause beginner anxiety! Good on you for conquering your doubts and giving it a (very successful) whirl!
Anyone else catching the first glimpse of Miss Morgan's lovely dress like **need to make similar dress with those beautiful Christmas-y sleeves increasing**
Modern Tailor: "To finish the hem, just fold it over twice and sew it together.
Medieval Tailor: "Send in a woman with some thread to slave over for 15 hours. It's cheaper. "
...my thoughts exactly. Seems it would be easier to just fold over hem. And I'm still not quite sure why they wouldn't have done that.
@@bonniehyden962 It's all conjecture, the simplest explation would be what was said in the video - it creates a sturdy but decorative hem without wasting some inches of fabric. The other reason could also be that the woman were already used to weaving (especially in Skandinavian countries homeweaving was a thing) so making this kind of woven finish was intuitive for them.
If the brush braids sewn on the hems of Victorian walking skirts are a good comparison, it’s to avoid wear and tear on the main fabric of the skirt, which is a lot harder to replace than a narrow ribbon. And since they already had to weave the ribbon by hand anyway, why not weave it and sew it to the hem at the same time? It looks good, is probably a less bulky way to completely enclose the raw edge of the skirt, and may even save some time.
If you live in a country that gets maybe 4-6 hours or less of daylight in winter (if any at all depending on how far north you live) you will do anything to keep busy and not go insane. All joking aside, a ribbon like that is probably more durable and since all the fabric was mostly homespun anyway it doesn't make much of a difference if you spend the time weaving some extra inches of the main fabric and then sewing the hem or doing it like in the video.
@@onetwothree9
Herjolfsnes is further south than one might think - it’s at about the same latitude as Bergen.
I think, with the nose that is near you, I couldn’t get anything but pets done! What a sweet dog.
Hey Morgan, do you know if when people's hems wore out back then, would they ever cut it off and piece a new strip of fabric along the bottom? it seems like a logical thing to do to make a dress last longer, but then maybe it was seen as deeply uncool?
I flipping love your videos, every time you use a tool that was unearthed on an archaeological dig it blows my mind!!!
We do have visual evidence from manuscripts and such of a different color at the hem sometimes, but I feel like it was often on fancy dress, and meant to indicate fur. That said, it certainly seems possible.
So excited to see the finished dress!
A note on tablet weaving: your tablets may not always be oriented the same way. Different patterns orient them differently.
Time intensive, but I could see it being somewhat meditative too. What a cool way to finish the hem. It's always cool to see a different technique. Thanks for sharing.
Awww tablet weaving! Why I never thought about searching for video tutorials? I wanted to try that technique (not for hems but bands and tapes) for years now, but couldnt figure out the written instructions.
Your video was really helpful. Yes its not a "tutorial" but it was enough to unwind my brain. Now I need some wool and tablets to try it myself
Hi! If you're still looking for tablet weaving tutorials, I highly recommend elewys of finchingefeld!
She has a very beginner friendly video series here on youtube (“weave along with elewys“). Each video covers a different historical pattern and contains all the info you need to replicate it at home!
I love this!! The fact that it will felt over time is great. Sort of a cross between sock darning and sergeing. I really enjoy your vlogs and the great research/results. An amazing way to get the brain thinking!!
I've been working on tablet weaving on a makeshift loom (my clothes airer) with cardboard tablets, because another craft is always interesting?? This method looks like a mix of 'modern' tablet weaving style and sewing - very cool!
ALWAYS more crafts! :D
I have watched videos of card weaving and found the instructions above my current skill level, did not answer questions about making it longer and did not leave me wanting to ask for more information. Needless to say, one visit to that person's youtube was enough. You, however, quickly answered lots of my original questions and let me know you were figuring parts of this out as you went along. Now it's just another craft to play with like all the others I have learned in my long life. I learned as a child that you would get a number of ways to do almost anything if you just asked different people because most people didn't have books with the how tos set in stone. We've lost the freedom to explore and play with things these days. You and your friends who do the recreations have gone back and found that. I would join you but I have neither the energy or money at this point in my life to enjoy it. I do make clothing that is different that borders on costume and wear them in my very small town. I am probably known as that crazy old lady that live over there but I don't have time to care about that. Keep learning and having fun.
I am so excited to see this video, as I have been dreading starting on a herjolfsnes dress for the hems. There are diagrams in the book "Medieval Garments Reconstructed ", but they looked Greek to me!
Thank you so much for this video, as I can now get to work on mine and my fiance's wedding attire! (I am making myself the same dress as the one depicted in this video, him the buttoned houppeland from the same find.)
Knitters could use a stitch holder instead of your makeshift safety pin. (basically the same shape). What an interesting combination of sewing and card weaving!
When you mentioned tablet woven hem I presumed you'd use the garment fabric threads as your weft. This method is also really nice :)
I have seen that concept on straight edged garments elsewhere in Europe, but not on the Herjolfsnes ones. I'd love to give it a try someday though!
@@MorganDonner its a royal pain, but it looks lovely, especially if you make a double faced weave with a pattern, you get this gorgeous sturdy finish that makes the garment look so much fancier as there's barely a visible stitch on the hem(id like to think that some nobles insisted on it but I have no evidence to back it up)
Are you talking about where you tablet weave the band and leave long weft fringe on one side that then becomes the (already nicely spaced) warp for weaving a cloth? Or something else?
@@Awulle or visa versa, you can take a finished fabric, pick out some of the threads so you have some loose threads at around twice the length of your intended band, set up your tablet weaving adjacent and use the threads from the fabric as the weft.
Its super finneky, but you get a really nice edge on fabric obviously it's perhaps not reccomended for super fine material, but if you've got a fairly large weave fabric (like a woolen fabric) it's a neat way to finish. Especially if you don't have the means to weave your own fabric :)
Re-reading--Never mind--you mean the reverse of that, don't you?
That's what I call commitment to your art. Well done! Thoroughly enjoyable.
I expect that after doing it many times, muscle memory would kick in and it would go much more quickly, the way experienced knitters fly through a piece of work.
I had never heard of this method of hemming but now I want to make a medieval gown so I can try this out!
As a tablet weaver - Thems my dream tablets 😬 ❤️
I know!! But bone tablets are so expensive!
Just curious, what kind of bones would they be made of to create such a large flat surface? Like cattle/equine skulls?
@@alexreith4877 I believe its cow thigh bone, you can hollow it cut along one side and there is a way to straighten it (I remember watching someone do it at a viking reenactment but I dont remember the process)
@@alexreith4877 someone told me a pelvic / hip bone? Can’t confirm that though 😆
YOU DID THE THING!!! I saw historical examples of this and how to do it in a histroical find book but couldn't figure out how to do it from the diagrams. Thank you sooo much for this video! Life saver!
That was very interesting! I started tablet weaving not to long ago, and made some really awesome bands already. I had considered using them to decorate and strengthen the hem, but I thought I would have to stitch it on later. (This might be the best way to do it with a wider trim, because I'm not sure I could keep the tension right with a wider loom + stitching.)
And I love the dark dress you are wearing and the red blouse. If you have made them I'd love the patterns
You could totally weave the trim separately and apply it afterward. In fact, I think that would be easier - I only did it this way because I wanted to try replicating the way it was done for this specific gown.
The red dress is from idodeclareshop.com and the black dress is from eShakti.
Anytime you have a sewing helper aka doggo or any pet for that matter makes the video better. Your dog is adorable.
This is fantastic. I love the look.
Thank you! I'm happy with how it turned out!
Yay! Tablet weaving! I love seeing people pick up tablet weaving - it is so much fun!
I've been researching tablet weaving recently! Are you reading my mind? I am about to make the cards to try for myself. Never thought to stitch it in while weaving. For length of warp, I've read that you should do: (1.2*[desired end length]) + 50cm. For your project, it would need to be 187.8 inches long.
Wow! Totally amazed 😃
Ug you're making me want to try this but my persona is late period Italian 🤦♀️
I mean, hard same, and yet that siren call.....
Thank you for this video and I love your dress.