Supplies 101: Tailoring and Historical Sewing

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2024
  • Let's talk tailoring supplies! With all of the weird terms floating around, how do we know what to use where? What weight of wool for a jacket? What type of interfacing for a waistcoat? Is tailors tape the same as twill tape? Do shoulder pads always look like linebackers? The questions seem endless! So, we're going to start today with understanding what some of the basic supplies you'll come across actually look like.
    00:00 Intro
    01:25 Interfacings
    07:58 Padding
    10:34 Tapes
    13:08 Linings
    15:41 Wools
    21:40 Threads
    24:36 Tools
    ✂️ Linen Canvas: www.etsy.com/listing/24168065...
    ✂️ Horsehair: www.etsy.com/listing/19916228...
    ✂️ Domette: www.etsy.com/listing/19960069...
    ✂️ Lightweight: www.etsy.com/listing/19960053...
    ✂️ Collar Canvas: www.etsy.com/listing/20412610...
    ✂️ Lining: www.etsy.com/listing/20291495...
    ✂️ Tailors Tape: www.etsy.com/listing/21519159...
    ✂️ Chalk: www.etsy.com/listing/19890531...
    ✂️ Basting Thread: www.bblackandsons.com/sewing-...
    ✂️ Silk Thread: www.britexfabrics.com/notions...
    ✂️ Beetled Linen: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/coll...
    ✂️ Pattern Paper: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
    ✂️ Shoulder Pads: www.etsy.com/listing/19885446...
    ✂️ Shears: www.whiteley.co.uk/store/craf...
    ✂️ Similar Buttonhole Scissors: www.amazon.com/Mundial-252-Sp...
    More fabric/tailoring shops:
    ✂️ B. Black & Sons: bblackandsons.com/
    ✂️ Burnley & Trowbridge: burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
    ✂️ Historical Fabric Store: www.thehistoricalfabricstore....
    ✂️ MacCulloch & Wallis: www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/
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ความคิดเห็น • 352

  • @lacyminoux9177
    @lacyminoux9177 3 ปีที่แล้ว +318

    When I was young and showing horses in California, the temps would be upwards of 110*f and just miserable. One judge was really committed to formal attire and required full coats, stock ties and velvet helmets. I had a second hand vintage wool hunt coat with fine cotton lining and I whined all morning about having to wear it later...and was shocked when I actually felt cooler in the heavy weight wool than I did in my short sleeved cotton rat catcher. After that, I always wore it. I don’t handle heat well and that dang coat saved my bacon from burning to a crisp 🤣

    • @darthdiddums845
      @darthdiddums845 3 ปีที่แล้ว +30

      I had an old Melton wool long coat that I wore during blistering heat summers in Australia for exactly the same reason...it kept me cool...

    • @joylox
      @joylox 2 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      I usually wear wool socks in summer, and they keep me pretty cool. However they get really itchy when wet, so I have to make sure the weather is dry out. Some fabrics are really surprising. Although for casual clothes, I prefer to use lightweight cotton in summer.

    • @KellyBurnett138
      @KellyBurnett138 2 ปีที่แล้ว +11

      It’s like the wool boot socks issued by the Army. I serious when I say they were cooler and reduced the heat of friction, wicked moisture, didn’t smell as quick. I didn’t appreciate them until I bought cotton ones that were soggy and stinky!

    • @bobbirdsong6825
      @bobbirdsong6825 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      you thought he was being a hardass, turned out he was looking out for you lol

  • @beatricewhitcombe
    @beatricewhitcombe 3 ปีที่แล้ว +77

    She’s like your favourite kindergarten teacher, that always spoke softly and had all the patience for you as you struggled to glue macaroni to paper 😍 absolute perfection

  • @eric3844
    @eric3844 3 ปีที่แล้ว +231

    As a guy who's just seriously getting into historical sewing, this video is an absolute gem of a resource. Thank you so much!

    • @brigidscaldron
      @brigidscaldron 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

      SAME (well, I’m not a guy, but yay for more guys doing historical sewing!)
      I love how much I learn from Nicole!

    • @mirjanbouma
      @mirjanbouma 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      More guys into sewing, yes please!

    • @soapibubblesthestrange9972
      @soapibubblesthestrange9972 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      IWW profile pic and into historical sewing? You seem dope as heck dude!

    • @eric3844
      @eric3844 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      @@soapibubblesthestrange9972 thank you! I've been doing campaigner American Civil War and Spanish Civil War reenacting for a while now, so it seemed like a logical leap.

    • @Mark-hf6uf
      @Mark-hf6uf 3 ปีที่แล้ว +10

      Same here, and a guy too! I wish I had all these infos when I started a year ago (waistcoat without interfacing=>problematic)

  • @deborahduthie4519
    @deborahduthie4519 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    My husbands Tailored trousers had a velvet waist bands, with the fibres directed towards the feet. It keeps his shirts tucked in, neat and tidy at all times.

  • @tjs114
    @tjs114 3 ปีที่แล้ว +126

    For people looking for drafting paper on a smaller scale, a lot of gift wraps these days have 1 inch grids printed on the opposite sides now. So, after Christmas mark downs can come in handy for your drafting needs too.

    • @sagevia-hall8757
      @sagevia-hall8757 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      That is a great tip! Thanks so much!

    • @leamubiu
      @leamubiu 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      I read or heard somewhere that gift wrapping is generally not recyclable. Just something to keep in mind is possible.

    • @sheenawarecki92
      @sheenawarecki92 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes! I love using wrapping paper heheh

  • @alexandraanderson6740
    @alexandraanderson6740 3 ปีที่แล้ว +27

    Your iron on interfacing roast is so accurate, it failed miserably when I tried it, following directions and everything. I hate how all modern patterns call for it. I am going to try one of these next time!

    • @infamoussphere7228
      @infamoussphere7228 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I'm thinking of switching over to sewn interfacings - I use a better quality iron on interfacing and often it's still hard to get it to stick.

  • @stm31415
    @stm31415 3 ปีที่แล้ว +109

    Bless you, this is a fantastic resource and I haven't found anyone else trying to be so quick-but-comprehensive.

  • @lorisewsstuff1607
    @lorisewsstuff1607 3 ปีที่แล้ว +64

    Contrary to what a lot of Etsy sellers think Grosgrain ribbon is Not the same as Petersham. Grosgrain is woven as a sheet of fabric and cut into ribbons so it has cut edges. Petersham is narrow woven as a single ribbon and has a woven edge that doesn't unravel. A difference in weave causes the signature stripes and results in a zig zag edge that Petersham always has. Vintage Grosgrain ribbon always has a straight edge that can unravel. Vintage Petersham is usually made of silk, cotton or rayon. Modern grosgrain is usually polyester or a poly blend so that the edges can be heat bonded. Sometimes poly grosgrain is given a bonded zigzag edge to mimic Petersham. If you're looking at Petersham online that has a zigzag edge and poly content it's more than likely that it's really grosgrain with a cut and bonded edge.

  • @sygirl101
    @sygirl101 3 ปีที่แล้ว +180

    If you ever have an online tailoring course, I’d love attend! Your content is so educational!

  • @ColorJoyLynnH
    @ColorJoyLynnH 3 ปีที่แล้ว +99

    I am a professional knitting instructor. I also have a spinning wheel for making my own yarn.
    To make worsted yarn, you comb wool fibers so they are all parallel, and then you spin them to keep that parallel structure.That makes it so that when they are spun, the ends of the fibers do not stick out. When worsted yarns are woven, the fabric can even be shiny if the fibers are long enough and fine threads woven tightly enough. It also depends on which type of wool you start with (because each breed and even each animal within the breed will have a different texture, length and micron thickness), just as humans have different types of hair.
    Just as comparison, fuzzy wool yarns, especially the kind we think of for hunting socks or old-school wool sweaters, the fibers are carded rather than combed. Carding to start with makes the resulting products fluffier and lighter weight. It is spun to keep the loft, which is called woolen spun. Blankets would be made of woolen yarn.

    • @lenaeospeixinhos
      @lenaeospeixinhos 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      This is awesome, thank you for sharing 🤗

    • @forestm936
      @forestm936 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      I now finally know what it means for a wool to be 'worsted'

    • @lunarshadow7712
      @lunarshadow7712 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      So to make worsted yarns do you need a specific kind of roving? I’ve dabbled in spinning with a drop spindle on and off so I only know a little about it

    • @dariaorme1282
      @dariaorme1282 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I now know of the existence of a garment called "hunting socks." Thanks for sharing :)

    • @juliaredman8379
      @juliaredman8379 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@lunarshadow7712 True worsted requires combed top, not roving. If you are prepping from scratch, you would use the heavy, evil looking wool combs with 4 to 5 rows of teeth. If you are buying pre-prepped fibers, you are looking for something labeled specifically "top" vs "roving". If you see them side by side you will really see those differences. Much of the commercial preparations of merino, for example, are combed top, so if you are buying dyed top that is what you are getting. Try getting some roving or batts from a small farm to compare. When you buy from a small farm that is selling from their own sheep it is usually carded roving (at least in the USA), because most small wool mills they use for small runs of fiber offer that. On occasion they will offer pin-drafted top/roving (which is somewhere between roving and top), and very rarely, combed top. The loftiest yarns come out of equally fluffy carded batts, the smoothest yarns out of top. Your fiber handling technique while spinning plays a part too, but if you start trying different breeds and different fiber preps, even handling the fiber the exact same way you will see immediate difference.

  • @elisabethm9655
    @elisabethm9655 3 ปีที่แล้ว +44

    What a great resource TH-cam has become. Books are wonderful, but there’s a whole other dimension that can only be experienced through demonstration and instruction - short of in person learning through schools and workshops, video is the next best thing. Thank you for doing this.
    In a future installment could you talk about irons, boards, specialty shaped boards, needle/velvet boards, hams, steamers...and then there’s the matter of needles; hand and machine - their uses, fabric matches and how to find good ones?

  • @skirtedgalleons
    @skirtedgalleons 3 ปีที่แล้ว +80

    Your videos are so pleasant, your voice, the aesthetics, the visuals and voiceovers. This is a useful, clear, comprehensive, and excellently presented resource. I've read tailoring books that don't explain these fabrics and tools. Thank you!

    • @katarzyna_p
      @katarzyna_p 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Exactley right!

  • @luciasamaras7767
    @luciasamaras7767 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    You give university level content in a way that I understand. You make tailoring seem doable. What a friendly and expert way you have! Thank you!

  • @leonply
    @leonply 3 ปีที่แล้ว +60

    I had to chuckle when you were describing Tailor Tape and its application, as well as Petersham. Both of these can be extremely useful, especially if you're recreating the lofted and softly turned lapels which were the rage in the Edwardian Era for Chesterfield Coats. Both tapes, as well as loads of steam, become your best friend here! Thanks for a very fun and informative presentation!
    I almost forgot, so here's my edited portion: You mention "patterning paper," which is its own Pandora's Box of Tailoring Trauma. Over the years, regardless of what kind of project I'm working on, I've discovered two papers which are pretty amazing. The first is "floor paper," a kind of mid-weight kraft paper, which you can purchase by the roll at any (and I mean ANY!) paint store. It's really wide, you get a couple years' worth in length, and it's not horribly expensive. The other variety is a (very heavy) roll of wide printer paper; this can be purchases at Office Depot or other places and is used for production plotter printers. It's strong and lightweight (once you've pulled it off the roll!) and you can get it in widths up to 185 cm (about 72 inches).
    If you keep/archive your patterns, the floor paper is marvelous. One or two layers of any tape near any edge on both sides of each pattern piece, then punch a hole and you can keep the entire pattern hung on a pattern hook.

    • @maryblaylock6545
      @maryblaylock6545 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Bless You! And thank you for showing us where you can get the papers!

  • @AgentPedestrian
    @AgentPedestrian 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I was supposed to be winding down to sleep but now I'm thirst scrolling through wool vendors

  • @nblmqst1167
    @nblmqst1167 3 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Oog...rubberized horsehair...horsehair padded upholstery...widely used in the 1950s...memories of a very prickly childhood (shudder).

  • @hotjanuary
    @hotjanuary 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    The subtitles sometimes give me such a chuckle 🤭: “but we’re going to specifically focus in on wolves because that tends to be the most typical type of tailoring fabric [...]” 15:58

    • @NicoleRudolph
      @NicoleRudolph  3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      I missed that one- but I'm going to leave it now 😂

  • @ma-ri-ko
    @ma-ri-ko 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    U so amazing!! (sew amazing?) I genuinely love how you are doing the opposite of tailors back in the day protecting the trade secrets. Thank you for being the opposite of "finish in the usual fashion."

  • @sarahgiggles9444
    @sarahgiggles9444 3 ปีที่แล้ว +24

    Dangit, I so wish I had this video 2 days ago when I blindly ordered some random horsehair canvas for my Hamilton spencer! It sounds like I need to have a bit of a re-think about how I'm going to approach my interfacing materials. At least the stuff I ordered won't go to waste, but it sounds like I need to come up with a better plan for other materials to use along with it.

  • @margaretohanlon4579
    @margaretohanlon4579 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    You have made my life 600 times easier. I live in a remote town in a remote country and there are virtually NO tailoring courses, and the materials are not readily available, I would REALLY LOVE you to do a tailoring course on line. OMG.

  • @stevezytveld6585
    @stevezytveld6585 3 ปีที่แล้ว +28

    Canadian resource for tailoring supplies - Darrell Thomas Textiles (Almont, Ontario). Fantastic store and they're even having a sale right now on deadstock designer fabric.
    - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

    • @susanrobertson984
      @susanrobertson984 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Do you know of any Canadian suppliers of silk button hole twist? I found a place in BC and ordered in December and the order may arrive this week.

    • @stevezytveld6585
      @stevezytveld6585 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@susanrobertson984 DT sells the Gutterman silk. But it's the regular weight, not the silk twist. Last time I was in the store (before he relocated) he had polyester buttonhole twist. But if enough of ask for silk twist...

    • @stevezytveld6585
      @stevezytveld6585 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@susanrobertson984 Who's your BC supplier?
      Say it loud and say it proud. Because independent fabric and haberdashery suppliers are in danger of dropping like the proverbial flies... now's the time to show our support.
      - C.

    • @susanrobertson984
      @susanrobertson984 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      @@stevezytveld6585 it is called Cindy’s Threadworks. I ordered once in early December because she has Superior threads from the US not in stock but she orders them. She got in touch early Jan to say her regular suppliers didn’t have what I wanted and she was trying some others. I should get the thread this week. So if you are not in a hurry ... which I was not!! The regular Gutterman silk thread is available lots of places including Fabricland. But everyone keeps running out of dark grey!!

  • @mrberryman
    @mrberryman 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I have been waiting for this for YEARS! Thank you.

  • @lieselemay
    @lieselemay 3 ปีที่แล้ว +28

    Sweet! Just what I needed. You always provide such excellent topics. 😊
    This was amazing. Terms are often the largest barrier to entry when it comes to locating supplies. Thank you soooo much!

  • @etainne2001
    @etainne2001 3 ปีที่แล้ว +13

    i never put a video in my costuming save for later list so fast as i did this one. Gosh golly I needed this just as a way to get my ducks in a row ( been watching my ducks wander lazily around for about six months now) . All my supplies are specific to quilting and I have been needing to get more organized, this list is going to be so helpful- I know i will be returning to it many times in the near future . Thank you so much.

  • @marthabenner6528
    @marthabenner6528 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This video makes tailoring look so much less scary.

  • @speedfinder1
    @speedfinder1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is a perfect example of what Sir Tim Berners-Lee invented the Internet for. I'm enthralled watching it, every time.

  • @jent3802
    @jent3802 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Im saving this video to watch over and over. Needed this info. Thanks!

  • @ajnormandgroome
    @ajnormandgroome 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow, watched on TV tonight, rather than my small tablet. I think I need to go back and watch everything on TV. The fabrics are beautiful

  • @johannageisel5390
    @johannageisel5390 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    That's the video I needed a year ago or so.
    Now I only need another one that translates all the terms into German, because the staff at fabric shops usually have no clue what [insert historical sewing related English term here] is.

  • @blackhagalaz
    @blackhagalaz 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I am so thrilled! It is super hard to find decent historical fabrics where I live. Especially wool's are always a blend, or felt. Its nearly impossible to find something without synthetics in it! Now I have two more shops to browse trough. Thank you!

  • @tannervillani
    @tannervillani 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    As someone who would like to eventually make his own suits; thank you for this!

  • @TI3RU
    @TI3RU 3 ปีที่แล้ว +15

    ahh thank you so much for this!!! i’m very new to like, heavy craftsmanship (most of my sewing projects have been simple skirts and shirts or like, cosplay pieces), so i’m always interested in the more heavy duty learning outside of just what i pick up from videos 💕
    i hope if you don’t already have plans for it that you’ll maybe do a follow up video about upkeep and whatnot for modern made tailored clothing (storage, cleaning, etc) bc ive seen some on historical pieces, but im never sure about what of these fabrics is ok to fold/wash/hang/etc haha;;

  • @katbird5872
    @katbird5872 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Oh finally an explanation on the differences between petersham and other ribbon that I can understand!
    A note from a spinner re; superfine wool and worsted wool- (wow this got long)
    superfine in spinning relates to the "softness" of the wool, the microns of the individual hairs that make up the wool! The smaller the number the softer the wool. a typical merino wool is in the mid 20s. Worsted refers to how you prepare the wool to spin it. The other way you can spin is "woolen" (traditionally/historically these are the two styles of spinning- modern spinners are getting creative and making more). Worsted spinning is spun with the wool hairs in a row, lined up all facing the same direction with the goal of being smooth and having the fuzzy halo of fiber that you see when you hold a thread up to the light as unpronounced as possible. Woolen spun thread is spun from what is called a "rolag" think a metal spring but made of unspun wool. The goal in woolen spinning is to trap as much air as possible, making a fuzzier, warmer thread. There is also a difference in the strength of each thread, and the amount of stretch, but I think the most important here is the fuzzy halo that you get with woolen spun verses the less fuzzy worsted.

  • @anaisabelsantos4661
    @anaisabelsantos4661 3 ปีที่แล้ว +17

    It's so good to have all this information in the same place, now I need to translate some of the terms and hope I find the correct translation because it is not allways easy in sewing and embroidery.

  • @VAMPYRICBASSIST
    @VAMPYRICBASSIST 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I love how she explains the history of the materials and processes. Ot makes you appreciate even more the construction of the garments you use.

  • @trduesing4117
    @trduesing4117 ปีที่แล้ว

    How very exciting! I have discovered a new GEM in the tailoring/hand sewing world!
    Your presentation style is precise and you have made it all very easy to follow!
    Now I have to search for more.
    Thank you for your time and talent. You have made my day.

  • @marthabenner6528
    @marthabenner6528 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for making this video. I am currently committing to making for myself Richard Sharps' (Sean Bean) officer jacket from "Sharps' Rifle's", and a cloak (Bernadette Banner red cloak) to wear over top of it in the winter time. To be donene in Prussian Blue with white wool embroidery and braids with mother of pearl buttons for my grandmother's collection. And on the back of the jacket where the braiding does the loop de loop I am going to do the Tree of Gondor. And Elvis writing and little flowers along the Hem of both the jacket and cloak. The lining is a separate project entirely, so I'm going to do a temporary lining and then work on my tapestry embroidered lining as I enjoy tapestry embroidery, I plan to wear this coat for the rest of my life, so I might as well take my time on it like my grandmother and her grandmother did.

  • @darthdiddums845
    @darthdiddums845 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am getting back into sewing and pattern drafting after a hiatus of 40 years and this video, dear Nicole, has saved me so much time and money that would have been wasted on so many unnecessary items. You speak with so much clarity and wisdom...I cannot thank you enough...

  • @elizastewart7136
    @elizastewart7136 3 ปีที่แล้ว +19

    Can you do a video on historical fashion books ?

  • @sarahmwalsh
    @sarahmwalsh 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I never knew that about the difference between scissors and shears!! It's so obvious now that I think about them!

  • @GINGER70HINTZ
    @GINGER70HINTZ 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Here I am back, I paid a lot attention to the thread that you mentioned, when I said I am back is because I went to Google to ask what is a chain stitching machine and sawba few videos and also for hand sewing the sleeve. So relax listening to you while I am stretching even though I know I am not into making pieces of clothes so complicated. Is good to know to learn new words.

  • @TheMetatronGirl
    @TheMetatronGirl 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    This is amazing! Thank you for putting together such a comprehensive resource for tailoring. There were a few items I knew the names of, but had never seen examples, and a few more I had never heard of. Seeing examples of each item, while discussing usage was incredibly helpful, and I don’t think I’ve ever seen a video quite like this, before. Thank you, again, and have a wonderful, joyous week.

  • @devinbaggs7542
    @devinbaggs7542 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    OMG Nicole, that 1930s suit jacket is giving me f e e l i n g s

  • @ninegreydaisies
    @ninegreydaisies 3 ปีที่แล้ว +21

    This was amazing! It also made me wonder about caring for and cleaning the garments. I'm sure just chucking things in the washing machine is probably not a good idea but where to begin?

    • @TheRetroFanatic
      @TheRetroFanatic 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      That was my first question about stiffened fabrics. Can it be washed at all? What can be washed?

    • @catzkeet4860
      @catzkeet4860 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      You really shouldn’t be wet washing a heavily tailored garment. They’re simply not designed for it, and the fabrics generally don’t wet wash well and frankly a tailored garment shouldn’t need washing. They’re not generally in contact with bare skin, If they get muddy, let it dry and brush it off and any spills should be spot cleaned. To generally refresh, spray with alcohol and let air dry.

  • @Lillyk96
    @Lillyk96 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You are a literal godsend I have been looking for this exact content for years!!!

  • @TamarHestrinGrader
    @TamarHestrinGrader 3 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    THANK YOU! I do confess it's starting to feel as though you're reading my mind - exactly when a question in my head becomes urgent, out comes your next video answering it ;-) Additional sources in Europe would be greatly appreciated as they surface! (Trying to reduce the shipping footprint of the materials I acquire as much as possible.)

    • @wiggle_duck9063
      @wiggle_duck9063 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      When it comes to wools, I've had decent luck with a couple of UK suppliers; Croft Mill and Fabworks.
      I'm not sure about mainland continent suppliers, sadly, but good luck finding what you need! :)

    • @TamarHestrinGrader
      @TamarHestrinGrader 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@wiggle_duck9063 Thank you, and indeed! Alas, Brexit has made it hardly less expensive and time-consuming to order from the UK as from the US (though at least the shipping distance is less, of course). The Historical Fabric Store in Sweden (which Nicole Rudolph links!) is fabulous for wools and broadcloths and linen canvas and such! But I've not been able to find any suppliers of 18thC button moulds on the mainland at all....

  • @cayjadoobirsingh2519
    @cayjadoobirsingh2519 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Oh my word!!!!! So many questions answered! You are truly the most amazing knowledgeable go to source ever! Seriously thank you Nichole for sharing the wonderfulness of you and your vast knowledge and experience. I truly appreciate you.

  • @krysil1221
    @krysil1221 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    The part about fabrics was most useful to me only because I've been confused as to what I should buy for a vest/waistcoat. Thank you!

  • @ClarissaMeyer
    @ClarissaMeyer 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for all the useful information. Now I have to find an online shop for those things here in Europe. I just started to make my own clothes (that are not knit) and still need to find the right materials near me.
    And as a crafter spinning her own yarn I have to add a little more.
    The most important difference between worsted and woolen spun wool is actually in the fiber preparation. (The way it is spun makes a difference as well, but is of less importance in the effect it has)
    For worsted spun wool yarn the fibers are combed to
    1) remove shorter fibers from it
    2) so that all fibers are parallel to each other
    Both contribute to the much smoother quality of such yarns even before a lot of twist is put in.
    Woolen spun wool yarn is made from fiber long and short, laying every which way, and often spun in a looser manner. This contributes to a more rough appearance, as those shorter fibers and different angled longer ones stick out to the sides, and to those yarns being warmer. More air is trapped after all.
    There are quite a lot of videos here on youtube showing the differences and how it's done in handspinning (both with spindle and a wheel)

  • @vikusfikus4390
    @vikusfikus4390 ปีที่แล้ว

    I spent more time translating the names and finding close equivalents (aka gets the job done) available in my country than I spent on watching this guide😂 This is going to be a journey

  • @LK-ec2ne
    @LK-ec2ne 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Lightweight interfacing is practically perfect for stabilizing tissue paper patterns that you want to use over again. Adds little bulk, remains flexible, and makes them sturdy enough for repeated adjustments and reuse. Also, lets you make notes right on your pattern.

  • @mayalynn
    @mayalynn 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    I love all your videos so much, but this is particularly useful. Thank you so much!

  • @gkseeton
    @gkseeton 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thank you! So much to learn and to have all this in one place, the best. I wish I could give it TWO thumbs up!👍 👍 how could anyone give this a thumbs down? 😳🙄

  • @cherisseepp5332
    @cherisseepp5332 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thank you for this resource!
    I’d also like to say, I love your look today. It’s fantastic!

  • @catherinerw1
    @catherinerw1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +27

    I've been using up the cotton threads that came with my grandmother's old sewing box for tacking/basting; the nice quality Sylko Three Shells twist... as I found out the hard way that as it is probably over 50 years old (judging by the dates of some of the other items in the box), it doesn't have the strength not to give way in structural hand-sewing! Also a nice rememberance of her.

    • @WhimsyCourier
      @WhimsyCourier 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Good thinking

    • @beckstheimpatient4135
      @beckstheimpatient4135 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Vintage threads are something I'd love to collect, like Noelle does, but I'd never use them - as much as it's not historical, I stick to modern polyester threads for everything so far. If I worked larger visible stitches into some garments I'd probably buy silk, but otherwise polyester does the job quite well when it comes to wearable historybounding/vintage-style/modern clothes and has the added bonus of working very well for both machine and hand-sewing.

  • @texassweetgrl
    @texassweetgrl 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank you thank you thank you. I went to buy my first order of 'nice thread' for my historical sewing and just froze because I didn't have a clue as to what was what. Or what weights were good for what. I just ended up closing my web browser to think about it another day. So thank you so much for this needed video. 🥰❤🧡💛💚💙💜🥰

  • @bobbibuttons8730
    @bobbibuttons8730 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Gosh, I love your channel, I learn so much. I count myself fairly experienced at sewing but I learn an amazing amount. Your channel just has this element of something that others don’t

  • @adedow1333
    @adedow1333 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thank you so much for this, Nicole! I've been wanting something like this for a while now. Also, now I have to go and unpick some handstitching and acquire tailors tape, because...yeah. (swearing so much in my head rn). I really appreciate the additional knowledge of materials! I will be referencing this video so much as I learn how to tailor things properly! You're a gem!

  • @lauramoore127
    @lauramoore127 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I love your videos...the amount of knowledge, the aesthetics, the presentation... you're in my top 5 gotta watch channels. Thank you!

  • @bethkolle1
    @bethkolle1 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Worsted wool is woven from worsted spun wool, which means the fleece was combed instead of carded. It’s the smoothness of combed spun and woven wool that allows the threads to pack so nicely, and gives a smoother finish that is Rey unlikely to pull. Carded fleece is a process that results is a loftier preparation where the individual fibers are jumbled about, as opposed to being straight as in combed fiber. This produces a fluffier wool suitable for knitting or felting which more efficiently retains heat because of all the air between the fibers.

  • @MuseAndDionysus
    @MuseAndDionysus 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Here I am viciously taking notes for the future historical garments I plan on making... Ya know, the usual

  • @FanGyrlX
    @FanGyrlX 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thank you so much for this wonderfully detailed and informative video! It also happens to be perfectly timed for me - I'm struggling with the collar and lapel of a 1939 dress pattern. After watching this, I learned that I need to do some shopping to get the right materials to properly finish it.

  • @annetten4166
    @annetten4166 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You are a great teacher, I have learned so much here.

  • @merriebusch9401
    @merriebusch9401 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! I’ve watched and rewatched this video a couple of times while I’m in my own sewing room. If you ever teach an online tailoring class please let us in the TH-cam world hear about it.

  • @charlessoutherton8946
    @charlessoutherton8946 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    yay finally a proper video on interlining/facing fabrics

  • @k1tkat-kate
    @k1tkat-kate 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    TBH I don't know if I'm ever going to attempt tailoring myself, but now I will be more able to follow along with people who are, and know what they're talking about!

  • @mirjanbouma
    @mirjanbouma 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Your videos are so informative and engaging! So glad I found you via Abby, I'm so jealous of both of you having a sewing human as a neighbour and friend!

  • @lintlie
    @lintlie 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Such a lovely video. Especially love the little 'cards'/title screens. The fond and little border look absolutely lovely.
    The historic touch on all the parts that go into tailoring is super nice, and not something you often find when looking for tutorials.
    I love to listen to your videos. However, as I am sadly a noob at anything sewing related, though very interested in tailoring, I do notice that there are plenty of times that I can't totally follow what is going on. (Not a problem, I just need to learn more still.) However, I managed to understand and follow everything in this video. Kudos on the noob friendliness :D
    Also all the suits and tailored pieces you own are incredible, such a fantastic job. They are all so district in style from each other too.

  • @MsDeepAndDark
    @MsDeepAndDark 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    What a treasure trove of information! I forsee rewatching this a few dozen times in the future)

  • @reddress000
    @reddress000 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    can't tell you how incredibly resourceful and on point this video (as well as so many others) is for me in a mess of tailoring info out there. thank you! plus points for being told in such a snazzy outfit

  • @calicolyon
    @calicolyon 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Love the tropical jacket! Super pretty 💕

  • @mcomeslast
    @mcomeslast ปีที่แล้ว

    Watching this again after taking some tailoring classes. Thanks for clarifying how they perform in hot weather. I’m in Tennessee and while I love tweed, it’s usually too warm for that.

  • @sunriseeyes0
    @sunriseeyes0 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thank you for all this wonderful knowledge! I went to fashion college but we only ever learned the basics and fast-fashion techniques. If you ever choose to teach a course I want to take it 💗

  • @RaquelCruz
    @RaquelCruz 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You are a great fountain of knowledgeable and resource for the new tailor. A dressmaker myself, I enjoyed watching this video. Thank you!

  • @natalialewandowska7453
    @natalialewandowska7453 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    This is so useful! Thank you so much for making this video!

  • @SimpleDesertRose
    @SimpleDesertRose 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thank you so much for simplifying the tailoring supplies. I'm new to tailoring and just really getting started in historical clothing. I am entirely self taught with only youtube tutorials and various books to show me the way. Needless to say seeing all the different components that actually go into tailoring cam be a bit daunting. This was a very practical tools of the trade video. It makes it way less confusing as to what I will need. If you ever care to share your knowledge of tailor and make a tutorial, that would be beyond awesome. ❤

  • @Pke6853
    @Pke6853 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    You are a wealth of knowledge would love for you to do some basic tutorials on the stitches and starting to make some basic items so people like me can get started and be confident when moving on the more complicated garments. Thank you for these videos I am sure this video will be used as a reference many times over. I will be saving this for sure. Cheers Tricia.

  • @vivijd14
    @vivijd14 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank you so much! This was very insightful!! I personaly looove tropical weight wools.....for circle skirts! So chic and twirly, and it does not create frixion with cotton tights.

  • @ruth.o_o5991
    @ruth.o_o5991 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I am a dress maker but really want to get more in to tailoring so this video is gold! Really hoping you can do a book recommendation video, not just about historical sewing but general tailoring🤞🤞I really love your skills and want to learn them to so I have some serious studying and practicing to do💪💪

  • @RachelLee-fw2oe
    @RachelLee-fw2oe 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Yes! I needed this. Thank you!!

  • @kikidevine694
    @kikidevine694 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Fabworks in Dewsbury, England. Huge stocks of dressmaking tailoring and draping fabric. Has a LOT of end of roll and limited edition fabric, especially wool and cottons. Heaven

  • @apwhoa7767
    @apwhoa7767 ปีที่แล้ว

    Okay, self taught seamstress, (yeah…old term, still prefer it) and this was by far the most information in a digestible format. 😊Thank you.

  • @deniseyoung3738
    @deniseyoung3738 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Wow! Thanks Nicole for all the great information. It does explain a lot of terms I've heard in historical sewing! I LOVE the 1930's striped jacket!

  • @funkypunkypine
    @funkypunkypine 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is extraordinarily useful. Thank you!!!

  • @moniquecrisell2082
    @moniquecrisell2082 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Best UK tailoring places - Kenton Trimmings, The Lining Company (aka Bernstein and Banley), MacCulloch & Wallis, Vena Cava Design have also recently started doing tailoring stuff too but I get corset stuff from them! Abraham Moon for Wool!

    • @kevincooper4177
      @kevincooper4177 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for that. Earned me some brownie points with my wife.

  • @pissyblue730
    @pissyblue730 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Huzzah! The video I’ve secretly been hoping you’d make.
    THANK YOU!!

  • @mellisartandcrafts
    @mellisartandcrafts 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love your style of explaining things, I could sit and listen to you for hours :)

  • @anniehosking2408
    @anniehosking2408 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I love your videos. I learn so much!

  • @michellecornum5856
    @michellecornum5856 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Yup, that pretty much covers it. By the way, if you type in Tailor's Tape (on Amazon), you will get a metric ton of measuring tapes, so you'll have to wade through that.

  • @kitkatliz1495
    @kitkatliz1495 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you so much, I've been So. Confused. about wool

  • @RegencyRumBluffers
    @RegencyRumBluffers 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Priceless resource - thank you so much.

  • @EnchantedForestArts
    @EnchantedForestArts 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Definitely going to be taking notes! Thank you so much for putting all this info together and in such a straightforward manner

  • @laynee9584
    @laynee9584 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Oh this is going to be so useful for when I make my coat!!! I'm so excited, thank you do much!! 💛💛💛

  • @ElizabethEstervig
    @ElizabethEstervig 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Yes! I love this so much! Inspiring aspiring tailors in all the best ways. Thank you so much for being so awesome

  • @an_evening_star_rose5991
    @an_evening_star_rose5991 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This it so helpful! This is a resource I will keep coming back to. Thank you so much!

  • @Seattlelegacy51
    @Seattlelegacy51 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    What a wonderful video, thank you!

  • @melanierussell514
    @melanierussell514 3 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    😅 Yes ma’am, I will hand Stitch in the sleeves.

    • @mirjanbouma
      @mirjanbouma 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Honestly, the process of getting sleeves in by machine is such a punishment for being alive, I'm very tempted to do it by hand now. Goodness, it might even be faster.

  • @MillyParker17
    @MillyParker17 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    i could listen to you talk about tailoring stuffs forever

  • @SiriusFeanor
    @SiriusFeanor 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wow, learned so much from this video! Thank you so much for making it. I already know I will return to it many times :)

  • @chantelmcskimming6633
    @chantelmcskimming6633 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you! Excellent talk 😀