Thanks for posting this. I had watched other videos showing disconnecting the wiring on the left side and flipping the whole harness over to the right to get access to the VVT valve, but on my 2011 Odyssey Touring Elite there is a heavy cable going from that harness to a fuse box on the left side that does not disconnect so it cannot be flipped. Following your method I was able to take the metal bracket off and lift the wiring up just high enough to get the valve body off and it wasn't that bad. The hardest part for me was getting the connectors off the coils because the catches did not want to release; I finally used one screwdriver to depress the catch while using another screwdriver under the edge of the connector to start it up. New eBay gaskets are in and so far so good.
@@mikoriad I ordered mine on eBay and went for ones shown in the Honda packaging, but have been told they are not really Honda parts but are fakes in fake packaging. The first set fit fine and is still working on my 2010 Ody Touring and the 2nd set I bought for my 2011 Touring Elite I had to use a razor blade to cut the slots in the rubber around the little screen deeper because they were too shallow and the screen would not fit into the valve body. However, after the adjustment, they are still working in my 2011 and $12 is much cheaper than buying a Honda valve and throwing away the bottom half.
@@mikoriad Hi Mike, thanks for the question. No auto parts stores carried this particular gasket - Honda dealer did not sell it except with the whole VVT Valve (dealer=250$). So, Amazon was the fastest source for me. OR I could buy the top part of the valve with gaskets locally at O'Rielly's Auto Parts, which I did. It was a Dorman part 918-056 and has worked fine ($120). But, you could order from Amazon just the gasket, like $10 and I got mine in 2 days that way (still have it). Before you disassemble, make sure your vehicle is exactly like this one or is another style, as the more loaded models (Touring, etc) use this one, while some may not have this type VVT valve. Also note: the Amazon gaskets appear to be China made, but seem to be visually of good quality. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching the video!
Thanks for sharing that Dorman 918-056 part number. I have been changing these gaskets for a year or so. I think it caused me to ruining my alternator. I changed that out. Because of oil leaking on it. So after changing out the gaskets last year the leak is back. So no more cheap gaskets. I am going to try the whole unit that has the gaskets with it.
Dorman VVT Solenoid used on this 2008 Odyssey Touring model - Dorman 918-056 (includes the gaskets). The gaskets only may be available on Amazon. Amazon shipped the gaskets which arrived in two or three days. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching this video - ONE IMPORTANT NOTICE! - Please verify to make sure this repair/replace video pertains to the part and vehicle you are working on - do a visual comparison and look up the part number to be replaced by the VIN number. There are various configurations of VVT Valves used on various Honda Models and there are front and rear VVT Valves (on the V6 front cyclinder bank and rear cylinder bank positions) on this particular V6 engine model. ALSO, various Manufacturers' Brands, Makes and Models of vehicles will have various styles of VVT Valves which will have different proceedures to replace the valve. Look it up by your VIN number! I hope this helps! Thanks Again! *The Touring Model may have a different VVT Solenoid than the LX and EX Models. Use your vehicle VIN number to look up the correct VVT parts for your vehicle. Fit For: 2013-2015 for Acura RDX 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC 2008-2012 for Honda Accord 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC 2010-2011 for Honda Accord Crosstour 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC 2012 for Honda Crosstour 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC 2008-2016 for Honda Odyssey 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC 2009-2015 for Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC VVT Valve - Original Equipment (OE) Number: 2T1136 VV1182 VVT282 TS1136 15810R70A03 15810-R70-A04
By the time you see this Ill already have it out hopefully, but I can't get the bottom gasket out to save my life. Even got a metal toothpick and still can't get the darn thing out. Any tips? I let you all know what I get figured out.
I was in a bind and the gaskets would take several days to arrive. Dealer does not sell these gaskets, so the only way I could fix the car the same day was to buy the Dorman Valve at a parts store. Since I paid for the valve, I figured go ahead and try it out, and it has worked great for about 2 years now. Thanks for watching!
It is unfortunate that Honda OEM seems to not sell just the gaskets for this VVT Spool Valve. There are now reports that the gaskets that are available online are knock-offs made in China, and having some recurring issues, so you may want to go another route. The parts I used were from Dorman and bought at O'Reilly's Auto Parts in a valve kit. I replaced the gaskets and the top part of the VVT Spool Valve which came in a kit for about $120.00. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Not sure about the Accord model, but assuming it is the same as Odyssey, the plate would have been on the car originally. It could be stuck to one of the housings, possibly. In any case, a whole Dorman replacement valve (or a used parts dealer) should work fine. Thanks for checking in!
would the replacement of the vvt stop ticking noise on 2010 acura tl it goes on and off seems like its not getting proper oil toward top of the right side where vvt is the noise seems to come from there
I have read on some of the Honda Discussions that that can happen. But have not run into it myself though. First make sure you have the proper weight oil, and it is clean and fresh. I think the Odyssey V6 requires 5W20 oil. Heavier oil may not flow properly for that engine. The Odyssey I worked on did seem a bit quieter after the VVT Valve replacement but as you know, there are several things that can cause ticking and other noises near that area. Wish I had more information for you on that issue. The Honda Discussion Forums have been a good source of info for me in the past. Thanks for Watching!
@@cubmancan yea I out brand new plugs other day brand new oil from acura w filter. its weird like I start the car its either she is quiet until I drive for a few then ticking starts then also at some points it goes away. just seen a video that says sometimes even the spark plugs might not be seated properly so ima double check that. the mech changed my tensioner robbed me for 140 cuz it didn't fix the issue I wss thinking maybe vvt wasn't getting oil to top front near it it seems the sound comes from right there will check 2morrow I was thinking to take out the vvt and check the filter in it if it has one been looking on TH-cam. my son works for Honda but his tech said sound like cam shaft and needed a engine mount wanted 1200 to fix it all but yet was offering to buy my car so it made me skeptical to think is this guy tryna jerk me by saying something w cam shaft I know I need engine mount swap real soon. but yea im told faulty vvt can cause ticking then also loose spark plugs or not properly seated spark plugs so ima torque them down tomorrow just to see need this fixed im losing out on working til I either fix or find new ride
@@ilovenythismuchilovenewyor5801 Just an Idea - you may have done it already- Harbor Freight has this Mechanic's stethoscope for $5 - may help pinpoint the ticking. Lisle makes one also for under $20 I think. These have been good for me in the past. Thanks www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNzEwNzAxMzEiLCJza3UiOiI2MzY5MSIsImlzIjoiNC40OTEwMDAwMDAwMDAwMDA1In0%3D&cid=paid_google|||63691&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1pyCBhCtARIsAHaY_5dYNHQYXKqm4uUoT5DM9uerW9qrvBPTFd9y50wvlXSpTrn5zg6E1_4aAs79EALw_wcB
@@cubmancan yea going to pick one up today to have anyways my mechanic said its not nothing w major part of the engine but to keep driving the car for a week w new oil and filter
I have this ticking noise on my 2010 accord and this same oil leak. Did the ticking stop? Also I’m worried about getting engine code after changing the gasket. Any input would help.
I have not done a replacement of the VVT Base assembly. I understand it is not a simple procedure. Wish I could have been more help on it. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting this video. How many miles have been put on the vehicle since this repair was done? And have there been any leaks or engine codes since the repair? I have read that the Dorman valves start leaking after a while and can also cause engine codes. Thank you.
THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN DRIVEN ABOUT 15,000 MILES (one year of driving) WITH NO PROBLEMS AND NO LEAKS. (Excuse those caps please). I kept the original VVT valve just in case but I hope I never need to revisit the issue. I do prefer OEM parts, but in this case it was a Saturday and the price was about $150 less for the Dorman. Thanks for watching!
Another note: The Dorman provided thin plate was much thinner than the OEM plate (the sandwiched stainless steel plate). So I used the OEM plate which looked to be in very good condition - should be because I see no moving parts associated with that thin plate.
NO- My understanding is that any type of sealer could potentially cause problems in the VVT valve due to small bits working loose and clogging the ultra-fine oil passages. Also, this type of rubber gasket in a channel should seal fine without it. Thanks for the Comment and for Watching!
Hello, Just curious how do you know if the car needs to have the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid needs to be changed what are some of the signs I should look out for?
That's a good question - an oil leak occurring does not necessarily mean the whole VVT valve is bad. I have two Honda Odessey's, (both developed oil leaks at the front VVT spool valve at over 150,000 miles.) I put a Dorman assembly on one because the parts came in a kit with the gasket ($120 at O'Rielly's). On the other, I was able to order a Dorman Gasket Kit (918-056GS) for under $25. Both ways fixed the oil leaks and both engines have been working fine since. My gut instinct that in most cases with this problem, the gaskets are the only issue. Perhaps it is easy to inaccurately blame the VVT valve for many problems.I know that bad old spark plugs and one ignition coil gave me fits one time. I believe you can buy just the little screw-in solenoid on top of the VVT housing also - may be something to try if other problems occur. Clean, fresh oil also is very important with these systems. Wish I had a more definite answer for you. Thanks for the Comment, and for watching the video!
how much will it cost if we do professional repair? my 2014 odyssey has almost same problem, engine oil is not leaking but i can see oil residue on side of wall of engine campartment next to dip stick.
I can't say what it may cost at a repair shop, but I was quoted $500+ as they priced the whole VVT valve at about $275 if I remember correctly (as they "couldn't get" just the gaskets), so going with the Dorman worked well for me as I couldn't wait 4-5 days for after-market gaskets to come from California (Ebay, as Amazon didn't sell them then). The Dorman VVT has worked well so far, it looked like pretty good quality except for a thin "sandwich" plate they supplied. I did use the original OEM thin stainless plate as it was heavier than the Dorman supplied plate. BTW, I later added the "resistor" mod that eliminated the "economy mode" which made it run smoother and reportedly may protect from engine damage (and perhaps CV joint failure) due to the "shutting down" of cylinders when in "ECO" mode. I went with the cheaper resistor set up, an easy snap-in-line mod. It may alter the temp-gauge reading a bit, but hasn't been a big deal to me yet. Thanks for watching and commenting!
2023 here, in California, a dealer near LA (San Fernando-ish) offhand said it would be about $1300 to replace the spool valve and about $400 of that was the part (which is hard to comprehend when hondapartsnow sells official Honda parts and it's $178 on there). A dealer won't sell just the gasket (Honda doesn't sell just the gasket, period) but that's all that's needed in many cases and it's like $10-15 on ebay / amazon.
Helo sir, i changed the gas kit and i was tightening the bolt but unfortunately bottom left side one bolt got free, now one top and one bottom right side bolt are tight but lower left side bolt is just moving its not tight, plz advise what should i do, i started the engine, its not leaking, but spool valve is depending on 2 bolts only.....
It sounds like the threads may be stripped in the base that is under the VVT Valve. I think it is likely the VVT Valve will begin to leak oil at some time. If the base has a stripped hole and must be replaced, you will need to be very careful to not let any broken thread particles get into your engine when you disassemble to replace any part around the VVT Valve. I would be reluctant to do any kind of re-tapping that assembly or going oversize with the bolt due to the risk of the loose threads causing major problems. It may be best to find a good Honda mechanic and have the base replaced. That is a more complicated procedure. Perhaps you can get a good Honda mechanic to check it out.
It's a judgment call, unless you can get your hands on an official Honda document for the particular part and vehicle (and even that, in my opinion, may be subject to the existing condition of the threads, etc.). Honda seems to be pretty secretive about torque specs on these, but generally speaking, a (shank size) 6MM with 1mm thread spacing bolt going into an aluminum threaded block seems to be widely reported at 6 to 9 Ft/Lb, with some saying 8.7 or 8.8. To be sure not to strip it, on my own I would likely go a bit to the lower side, perhaps 8, but to me the "feel" of it may take priority. For example, how tight were they coming out and how much did the bolt revolve before it was "free turning" etc. All that said, Honda is pretty well known for high quality fastening hardware (use of flange head bolts and good metal, etc.) The link here will get you to a Honda Pilot chat board that shows some torques that may be comparable. www.piloteers.org/threads/plenum-cover-bolts-torque.174836/ If you find some definite info for this particular part and vehicle, please post the info here, Hope this helps someone out there! Thanks Much!
@@cubmancan looks like I was able to find it by searching for Honda Engine J35 front upper rocker arm oil control valve. It says 8 N.m (6Lb-Ft). I would place a photo here for reference, but it will not let me.
The old gasket was flat and brittle. So I had a leak and killed my Alternator. I bought a pair of gasket off on ebay for about $12.00 instead of buying the whole unit for say about $200+. Had the Red OEM Genuine Honda parts stickers on the bag. I installed and now, I get a check engine light. Never had the check engine light on before. Now my car idles rough as if one of the cylinder is dead. I check the envelope that the gasket came in and it said Made in China. Do you think this could be a problem?
Perhaps it is the China made gasket, I actually, because I needed a same-day repair, used the Dorman brand gasket and valve (about half the OEM valve price). Unfortunately, Honda would not sell the OEM gasket alone without the whole assembly, which was about $275. The Dorman is still working fine on that vehicle. I did reuse the original Honda separation plate (sandwich plate), as it was thicker and seemed better quality. I suppose yours could have gotten a small blockage on some of the little oil ports inside there. Some people have a problem with that if they use any kind of gasket sealer. Also, the condition and weight of oil is critical on these engines. I believe it is 5W20 required. I would say, run a scan check on it also and see what pops up (may be free at Oreilly's or AutoZone.) Thanks for watching, and the comment! Hope it works out for you.
The chinese knockoff versions of this gasket causes a code to be thrown due to the screen filter on the gasket. It is fixable by reusing the screen filter portion from the oem gasket and just swapping it into the new gasket. Something with the size of the mesh either allows too little or too much oil through and causes issues.
Have you tried doing an idle relearn? -turn off all electrical loads / lights (put on emergency brake to prevent DRLs from coming on), turn off A/C, remove chargers, etc. -put key in and turn to step before cranking, for 2 seconds -crank and gas it to 3000rpm for 5 minutes straight (with the car in park, not going anywhere, or in neutral if it's a manual trans) -let the car idle until the fans come on twice -turn on the A/C for 5 minutes -turn off car -now crank it and see if the idle is smooth like it should be.
@@busyboxst7 haven't tried that, but the issues is that metal mesh filter that is the problem that throws the check engine light if you are using the eBay/amazon gasket parts. Either the flow is to rich or to lean. Before, I didn't know that you could remove the mesh from the old honda unit to the chinese knock off. But yeah, after reading through forums, people did that and it worked.
Do you remove the mesh from the new gasket and then somehow put the old mesh into the new gasket? I’m guessing you don’t mean just dropping the old mesh into the new mesh (doubling up on mesh, seems that would not work)… any links to this discussion or videos related to it?
Dorman VVT Solenoid used on this 2008 Odyssey Touring model - Dorman 918-056 (includes the gaskets). The gaskets only may be available on Amazon. Amazon shipped the gaskets which arrived in two or three days. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! I have not had a report of idiot lights on the 2008 Odyssey that received the Dorman VVT valve. Of course, if possible, I would prefer to go with OEM parts. I think I could have gotten away with replacing only gaskets had they been locally available, but I had to buy the Valve to get the gaskets. I did use the thicker OEM "sandwiched plate" rather than the thinner one from Dorman. I kept the old OEM valve just in case the Dorman acted up. Perhaps it could be cleaned, reworked a bit and used again. I did install a VCM disable resistor on that vehicle also, which seems to have worked out okay and maybe has eliminated some shuddering, etc. They say it is rough on cylinders for them to shift to deactivation, etc. Maybe that resistor has kept the system behaving. I am not a fan of VVT variable valve timing set ups. Thanks again!
@@cubmancan It's not just a rumor. The VCM in my 2010 accord totally F-d the piston rings. I had to call Honda corporate a zillion times to get them to replace the rings for $750... Should have been $0 due to the class action lawsuit over this but Honda dealers never told me the issues the car was having were due to the VCM design, nor that there was a lawsuit over it. They all tried to do the minimal work possible (reprogram the software, replace the spark plugs) instead of telling me I needed new piston rings and should install an SVCM or similar. I didn't figure out what was going on until right after the lawsuit's effective period had expired. Not a big fan of Honda as a company at this point, though expecting an ethical car manufacturer might be like expecting a computer company to not use sweatshop labor. YMMV of course. I had a friend who had an identical car, I think same year, and his never showed a single issue with it. Mine had issues within the first few years (bought new).
Hi, thanks for the video! Do you recommend purchasing the whole part from the dealership and then replacing the top half with the solenoid gasket? That way no need to open the intake manifold. I’m just worried if it’s better replacing the whole unit or just the gaskets would be enough.
A lot of ways to go, Dorman Valve or OEM Solenoid valve, or just the gaskets, which are not made by Honda (Cheapest and least desirable, I think. The best, IMO, would be an OEM Valve with the gaskets included from Honda. Yes, just the upper portion of the VVT valve should be good as long as no damages to the base. Perhaps an OEM VVT Valve can be bought online at a lower cost. The dealer was close to $300 after taxes I think, and the dealer was closed on Saturday afternoon, so we went with the Dorman from O'Rielly's, using the top portion with the original "sandwiched" plate and the Dorman gaskets supplied with the part (about $120 at the time, I think). We've had no problems with the Dorman setup. vehicle is running fine. Thanks for watching!
@@cubmancan great, thanks for the reply and all that information. I’m planning to buy the OEM part and then just replacing the top half. How much do you think in labor should cost just to do the front half part? I have a 2013 Honda Pilot. Dealership quoted me over $1200 but that seems too much, decided to just do the half part with a local mechanic.
No Leaks, Idle is Good, Have had some check engine lights activated, but at 190K miles, it happens due to other issues, from what I gather by the codes. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for asking. Hope I can be of help with this - It likely is the same, especially if it looks the same externally. On this model, the oil dipstick tube is mounted in the base of this VVT Valve (front of engine passenger side right above the alternator). There are two VVT valves on this engine, one VVT valve is on the front of the engine (the one in the video). There is also a VVT valve on the opposite corner of the engine in the back of the engine on the drivers seat side. Notice if you have oil leaking and where- I only did the front VVT valve (passenger side) as it was leaking oil there. I understand that the Touring models (like this one) may have a different set-up than other engines so all the V6 engines may not have this particular type of VVT valve. One way to find out - compare the video parts with your own vehicle and notice how the oil dipstick tube is mounted, another, maybe better idea, would be to take your ID number to O'Reillys or Auto Zone and ask to look at the VVT valve for your own car (be aware - some parts people don't realize there are two on the engine though).. My Honda dealer parts department was nice enough to let me look at the VVT valve before buying it. I eventually bought and used the Dorman part (O'Reillys) which has worked out fine. Also, if you only need gaskets, make sure you get them before disassembly, as dealers don't sell some gaskets separately from the Valve (as was my case). You can get gaskets on Amazon within just 2-4 days usually - make sure they look like the right shape.. Thanks for watching!
The Best AAA+++, instructional video pertaining to this often allusive repair and HOW to pull it off correctly. (parts 1 and 2)
Hey, Thanks so much for the encouraging comments!
I just replaced my gaskets and and didn’t have to remove the harness, quite and easy 15 minutes job
Glad you got it done! Thanks for Watching!
Thank you very much Sir, I did the job at home watching your video.
Thank You!
Thanks for posting this. I had watched other videos showing disconnecting the wiring on the left side and flipping the whole harness over to the right to get access to the VVT valve, but on my 2011 Odyssey Touring Elite there is a heavy cable going from that harness to a fuse box on the left side that does not disconnect so it cannot be flipped. Following your method I was able to take the metal bracket off and lift the wiring up just high enough to get the valve body off and it wasn't that bad. The hardest part for me was getting the connectors off the coils because the catches did not want to release; I finally used one screwdriver to depress the catch while using another screwdriver under the edge of the connector to start it up. New eBay gaskets are in and so far so good.
Great! thanks for watching!
I'd love to know where you got the gaskets, or what pn's you used. I need to do this on my 2011 also, asap.
@@mikoriad I ordered mine on eBay and went for ones shown in the Honda packaging, but have been told they are not really Honda parts but are fakes in fake packaging. The first set fit fine and is still working on my 2010 Ody Touring and the 2nd set I bought for my 2011 Touring Elite I had to use a razor blade to cut the slots in the rubber around the little screen deeper because they were too shallow and the screen would not fit into the valve body. However, after the adjustment, they are still working in my 2011 and $12 is much cheaper than buying a Honda valve and throwing away the bottom half.
@@mikoriad Hi Mike, thanks for the question. No auto parts stores carried this particular gasket - Honda dealer did not sell it except with the whole VVT Valve (dealer=250$). So, Amazon was the fastest source for me. OR I could buy the top part of the valve with gaskets locally at O'Rielly's Auto Parts, which I did. It was a Dorman part 918-056 and has worked fine ($120). But, you could order from Amazon just the gasket, like $10 and I got mine in 2 days that way (still have it). Before you disassemble, make sure your vehicle is exactly like this one or is another style, as the more loaded models (Touring, etc) use this one, while some may not have this type VVT valve. Also note: the Amazon gaskets appear to be China made, but seem to be visually of good quality. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching the video!
Thank you very much! I spent $10 and only took 45 minutes. Has not leaked 1 drop since.
Thanks for the good report! AND for watching the video!
Hi did you only buy the gaskets?
No check engine codes?
@Jofran Malinao I bought gaskets off ebay and they caused check engine light 2 days later
Do you not use Honda bond
Thanks for posting this. Saved me quite a bit of time and money on a 2014 Honda Odyssey EX-L.
Thanks for Watching!
ah the lost art of torqueing a bolt by feel, got to love it
Thanks for sharing that Dorman 918-056 part number. I have been changing these gaskets for a year or so. I think it caused me to ruining my alternator. I changed that out. Because of oil leaking on it. So after changing out the gaskets last year the leak is back. So no more cheap gaskets. I am going to try the whole unit that has the gaskets with it.
Thanks for sharing!
what gaskets were you using? I saw rockauto has Mahle ones for this exact repair
@@mp-fe1qvare they good because I got some from rock auto but haven’t put them in due to me being paranoid they are gonna leak
Thanks for the informative video!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Dorman VVT Solenoid used on this 2008 Odyssey Touring model - Dorman 918-056 (includes the gaskets). The gaskets only may be available on Amazon. Amazon shipped the gaskets which arrived in two or three days. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching this video - ONE IMPORTANT NOTICE! - Please verify to make sure this repair/replace video pertains to the part and vehicle you are working on - do a visual comparison and look up the part number to be replaced by the VIN number. There are various configurations of VVT Valves used on various Honda Models and there are front and rear VVT Valves (on the V6 front cyclinder bank and rear cylinder bank positions) on this particular V6 engine model. ALSO, various Manufacturers' Brands, Makes and Models of vehicles will have various styles of VVT Valves which will have different proceedures to replace the valve. Look it up by your VIN number! I hope this helps! Thanks Again!
*The Touring Model may have a different VVT Solenoid than the LX and EX Models. Use your vehicle VIN number to look up the correct VVT parts for your vehicle.
Fit For:
2013-2015 for Acura RDX 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC
2008-2012 for Honda Accord 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC
2010-2011 for Honda Accord Crosstour 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC
2012 for Honda Crosstour 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC
2008-2016 for Honda Odyssey 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC
2009-2015 for Honda Pilot 3.5L V6 GAS SOHC
VVT Valve - Original Equipment (OE) Number:
2T1136
VV1182
VVT282
TS1136
15810R70A03
15810-R70-A04
Please Excuse the wind noise - It was worse than I thought it would be. Turn down the volume and it is not as distracting. Thanks for Watching!
Great vid man I appreciate it
Thanks for watching!
Hey has the dorman product been holding up since?
Hey i used a dorman gasket to replace my gasket and my solenoid is still seeping oil. Any tips to help?
Any leak since with dorman i just bought one just like it received it today will install it soon
I have not had any problem with it. I always like OEM, but at the cost, am happy with the Dorman on this part, so far! Thanks for watching
By the time you see this Ill already have it out hopefully, but I can't get the bottom gasket out to save my life. Even got a metal toothpick and still can't get the darn thing out. Any tips? I let you all know what I get figured out.
Great video ! I’m glad I’m found it .
Maybe stupid question and you said it on video but why you replacing whole solenoid part not just gasket ?
I was in a bind and the gaskets would take several days to arrive. Dealer does not sell these gaskets, so the only way I could fix the car the same day was to buy the Dorman Valve at a parts store. Since I paid for the valve, I figured go ahead and try it out, and it has worked great for about 2 years now. Thanks for watching!
Definitely no need to buy the whole kit just the sensor and gaskets and o-ring for sensor on eBay
How long it will be stay good after change gaskets? The replacement is same material as original gasket?
It is unfortunate that Honda OEM seems to not sell just the gaskets for this VVT Spool Valve. There are now reports that the gaskets that are available online are knock-offs made in China, and having some recurring issues, so you may want to go another route. The parts I used were from Dorman and bought at O'Reilly's Auto Parts in a valve kit. I replaced the gaskets and the top part of the VVT Spool Valve which came in a kit for about $120.00. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I’m missing the plate. I have a 2008 accord ex v6 3.5.
Not sure about the Accord model, but assuming it is the same as Odyssey, the plate would have been on the car originally. It could be stuck to one of the housings, possibly. In any case, a whole Dorman replacement valve (or a used parts dealer) should work fine. Thanks for checking in!
Im change it but after sometime engine light on
would the replacement of the vvt stop ticking noise on 2010 acura tl it goes on and off seems like its not getting proper oil toward top of the right side where vvt is the noise seems to come from there
I have read on some of the Honda Discussions that that can happen. But have not run into it myself though. First make sure you have the proper weight oil, and it is clean and fresh. I think the Odyssey V6 requires 5W20 oil. Heavier oil may not flow properly for that engine. The Odyssey I worked on did seem a bit quieter after the VVT Valve replacement but as you know, there are several things that can cause ticking and other noises near that area. Wish I had more information for you on that issue. The Honda Discussion Forums have been a good source of info for me in the past. Thanks for Watching!
@@cubmancan yea I out brand new plugs other day brand new oil from acura w filter. its weird like I start the car its either she is quiet until I drive for a few then ticking starts then also at some points it goes away. just seen a video that says sometimes even the spark plugs might not be seated properly so ima double check that. the mech changed my tensioner robbed me for 140 cuz it didn't fix the issue I wss thinking maybe vvt wasn't getting oil to top front near it it seems the sound comes from right there will check 2morrow I was thinking to take out the vvt and check the filter in it if it has one been looking on TH-cam. my son works for Honda but his tech said sound like cam shaft and needed a engine mount wanted 1200 to fix it all but yet was offering to buy my car so it made me skeptical to think is this guy tryna jerk me by saying something w cam shaft I know I need engine mount swap real soon. but yea im told faulty vvt can cause ticking then also loose spark plugs or not properly seated spark plugs so ima torque them down tomorrow just to see need this fixed im losing out on working til I either fix or find new ride
@@ilovenythismuchilovenewyor5801 Just an Idea - you may have done it already- Harbor Freight has this Mechanic's stethoscope for $5 - may help pinpoint the ticking. Lisle makes one also for under $20 I think. These have been good for me in the past. Thanks
www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNzEwNzAxMzEiLCJza3UiOiI2MzY5MSIsImlzIjoiNC40OTEwMDAwMDAwMDAwMDA1In0%3D&cid=paid_google|||63691&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1pyCBhCtARIsAHaY_5dYNHQYXKqm4uUoT5DM9uerW9qrvBPTFd9y50wvlXSpTrn5zg6E1_4aAs79EALw_wcB
@@cubmancan yea going to pick one up today to have anyways my mechanic said its not nothing w major part of the engine but to keep driving the car for a week w new oil and filter
I have this ticking noise on my 2010 accord and this same oil leak. Did the ticking stop? Also I’m worried about getting engine code after changing the gasket. Any input would help.
Can you show a video on how to take the base off?
I have not done a replacement of the VVT Base assembly. I understand it is not a simple procedure. Wish I could have been more help on it. Thanks for watching!
Is it leaked now???????
Have had no problems with it, Thanks
Nice 👍
Thanks for the visit!
Thanks for posting this video. How many miles have been put on the vehicle since this repair was done? And have there been any leaks or engine codes since the repair? I have read that the Dorman valves start leaking after a while and can also cause engine codes. Thank you.
THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN DRIVEN ABOUT 15,000 MILES (one year of driving) WITH NO PROBLEMS AND NO LEAKS. (Excuse those caps please). I kept the original VVT valve just in case but I hope I never need to revisit the issue. I do prefer OEM parts, but in this case it was a Saturday and the price was about $150 less for the Dorman. Thanks for watching!
Another note: The Dorman provided thin plate was much thinner than the OEM plate (the sandwiched stainless steel plate). So I used the OEM plate which looked to be in very good condition - should be because I see no moving parts associated with that thin plate.
Nice man still watching comments
@@motorcityvillain Thanks!
do the gaskets need any type of sealer?
NO- My understanding is that any type of sealer could potentially cause problems in the VVT valve due to small bits working loose and clogging the ultra-fine oil passages. Also, this type of rubber gasket in a channel should seal fine without it. Thanks for the Comment and for Watching!
Hello, Just curious how do you know if the car needs to have the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid needs to be changed what are some of the signs I should look out for?
That's a good question - an oil leak occurring does not necessarily mean the whole VVT valve is bad. I have two Honda Odessey's, (both developed oil leaks at the front VVT spool valve at over 150,000 miles.) I put a Dorman assembly on one because the parts came in a kit with the gasket ($120 at O'Rielly's). On the other, I was able to order a Dorman Gasket Kit (918-056GS) for under $25. Both ways fixed the oil leaks and both engines have been working fine since. My gut instinct that in most cases with this problem, the gaskets are the only issue. Perhaps it is easy to inaccurately blame the VVT valve for many problems.I know that bad old spark plugs and one ignition coil gave me fits one time. I believe you can buy just the little screw-in solenoid on top of the VVT housing also - may be something to try if other problems occur. Clean, fresh oil also is very important with these systems. Wish I had a more definite answer for you. Thanks for the Comment, and for watching the video!
When it's leaking do you see oil on the exhaust manifold on the right side?@@cubmancan
@@timtrillwood5768you'll see it around your oil dipstick
One thing,thats not vvt solenoid, thats vcm for the front bank to cancel cylinders.
Thanks
how much will it cost if we do professional repair? my 2014 odyssey has almost same problem, engine oil is not leaking but i can see oil residue on side of wall of engine campartment next to dip stick.
I can't say what it may cost at a repair shop, but I was quoted $500+ as they priced the whole VVT valve at about $275 if I remember correctly (as they "couldn't get" just the gaskets), so going with the Dorman worked well for me as I couldn't wait 4-5 days for after-market gaskets to come from California (Ebay, as Amazon didn't sell them then). The Dorman VVT has worked well so far, it looked like pretty good quality except for a thin "sandwich" plate they supplied. I did use the original OEM thin stainless plate as it was heavier than the Dorman supplied plate. BTW, I later added the "resistor" mod that eliminated the "economy mode" which made it run smoother and reportedly may protect from engine damage (and perhaps CV joint failure) due to the "shutting down" of cylinders when in "ECO" mode. I went with the cheaper resistor set up, an easy snap-in-line mod. It may alter the temp-gauge reading a bit, but hasn't been a big deal to me yet. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@cubmancan
Thanks for your video, very helpful 👍
2023 here, in California, a dealer near LA (San Fernando-ish) offhand said it would be about $1300 to replace the spool valve and about $400 of that was the part (which is hard to comprehend when hondapartsnow sells official Honda parts and it's $178 on there). A dealer won't sell just the gasket (Honda doesn't sell just the gasket, period) but that's all that's needed in many cases and it's like $10-15 on ebay / amazon.
Helo sir, i changed the gas kit and i was tightening the bolt but unfortunately bottom left side one bolt got free, now one top and one bottom right side bolt are tight but lower left side bolt is just moving its not tight, plz advise what should i do, i started the engine, its not leaking, but spool valve is depending on 2 bolts only.....
It sounds like the threads may be stripped in the base that is under the VVT Valve. I think it is likely the VVT Valve will begin to leak oil at some time. If the base has a stripped hole and must be replaced, you will need to be very careful to not let any broken thread particles get into your engine when you disassemble to replace any part around the VVT Valve. I would be reluctant to do any kind of re-tapping that assembly or going oversize with the bolt due to the risk of the loose threads causing major problems. It may be best to find a good Honda mechanic and have the base replaced. That is a more complicated procedure. Perhaps you can get a good Honda mechanic to check it out.
What do those bolts get torqued to?
It's a judgment call, unless you can get your hands on an official Honda document for the particular part and vehicle (and even that, in my opinion, may be subject to the existing condition of the threads, etc.). Honda seems to be pretty secretive about torque specs on these, but generally speaking, a (shank size) 6MM with 1mm thread spacing bolt going into an aluminum threaded block seems to be widely reported at 6 to 9 Ft/Lb, with some saying 8.7 or 8.8. To be sure not to strip it, on my own I would likely go a bit to the lower side, perhaps 8, but to me the "feel" of it may take priority. For example, how tight were they coming out and how much did the bolt revolve before it was "free turning" etc. All that said, Honda is pretty well known for high quality fastening hardware (use of flange head bolts and good metal, etc.)
The link here will get you to a Honda Pilot chat board that shows some torques that may be comparable.
www.piloteers.org/threads/plenum-cover-bolts-torque.174836/
If you find some definite info for this particular part and vehicle, please post the info here,
Hope this helps someone out there!
Thanks Much!
@@cubmancan looks like I was able to find it by searching for Honda Engine J35 front upper rocker arm oil control valve. It says 8 N.m (6Lb-Ft). I would place a photo here for reference, but it will not let me.
I also read 6ft-lb from a Honda repair procedure I saw on odyclub
The old gasket was flat and brittle. So I had a leak and killed my Alternator. I bought a pair of gasket off on ebay for about $12.00 instead of buying the whole unit for say about $200+. Had the Red OEM Genuine Honda parts stickers on the bag. I installed and now, I get a check engine light. Never had the check engine light on before. Now my car idles rough as if one of the cylinder is dead. I check the envelope that the gasket came in and it said Made in China. Do you think this could be a problem?
Perhaps it is the China made gasket, I actually, because I needed a same-day repair, used the Dorman brand gasket and valve (about half the OEM valve price). Unfortunately, Honda would not sell the OEM gasket alone without the whole assembly, which was about $275. The Dorman is still working fine on that vehicle. I did reuse the original Honda separation plate (sandwich plate), as it was thicker and seemed better quality. I suppose yours could have gotten a small blockage on some of the little oil ports inside there. Some people have a problem with that if they use any kind of gasket sealer. Also, the condition and weight of oil is critical on these engines. I believe it is 5W20 required. I would say, run a scan check on it also and see what pops up (may be free at Oreilly's or AutoZone.) Thanks for watching, and the comment! Hope it works out for you.
The chinese knockoff versions of this gasket causes a code to be thrown due to the screen filter on the gasket. It is fixable by reusing the screen filter portion from the oem gasket and just swapping it into the new gasket. Something with the size of the mesh either allows too little or too much oil through and causes issues.
Have you tried doing an idle relearn?
-turn off all electrical loads / lights (put on emergency brake to prevent DRLs from coming on), turn off A/C, remove chargers, etc.
-put key in and turn to step before cranking, for 2 seconds
-crank and gas it to 3000rpm for 5 minutes straight (with the car in park, not going anywhere, or in neutral if it's a manual trans)
-let the car idle until the fans come on twice
-turn on the A/C for 5 minutes
-turn off car
-now crank it and see if the idle is smooth like it should be.
@@busyboxst7 haven't tried that, but the issues is that metal mesh filter that is the problem that throws the check engine light if you are using the eBay/amazon gasket parts. Either the flow is to rich or to lean. Before, I didn't know that you could remove the mesh from the old honda unit to the chinese knock off. But yeah, after reading through forums, people did that and it worked.
Do you remove the mesh from the new gasket and then somehow put the old mesh into the new gasket? I’m guessing you don’t mean just dropping the old mesh into the new mesh (doubling up on mesh, seems that would not work)… any links to this discussion or videos related to it?
What's the code????
No related codes yet! Thanks!
What is the part number for dorman vvt solenoid?
Dorman VVT Solenoid used on this 2008 Odyssey Touring model - Dorman 918-056 (includes the gaskets). The gaskets only may be available on Amazon. Amazon shipped the gaskets which arrived in two or three days. Thanks for watching!
Did you throw any codes after installing aftermarket vvt?
Thanks for watching! I have not had a report of idiot lights on the 2008 Odyssey that received the Dorman VVT valve. Of course, if possible, I would prefer to go with OEM parts. I think I could have gotten away with replacing only gaskets had they been locally available, but I had to buy the Valve to get the gaskets. I did use the thicker OEM "sandwiched plate" rather than the thinner one from Dorman. I kept the old OEM valve just in case the Dorman acted up. Perhaps it could be cleaned, reworked a bit and used again. I did install a VCM disable resistor on that vehicle also, which seems to have worked out okay and maybe has eliminated some shuddering, etc. They say it is rough on cylinders for them to shift to deactivation, etc. Maybe that resistor has kept the system behaving. I am not a fan of VVT variable valve timing set ups. Thanks again!
@@cubmancan It's not just a rumor. The VCM in my 2010 accord totally F-d the piston rings. I had to call Honda corporate a zillion times to get them to replace the rings for $750... Should have been $0 due to the class action lawsuit over this but Honda dealers never told me the issues the car was having were due to the VCM design, nor that there was a lawsuit over it. They all tried to do the minimal work possible (reprogram the software, replace the spark plugs) instead of telling me I needed new piston rings and should install an SVCM or similar. I didn't figure out what was going on until right after the lawsuit's effective period had expired. Not a big fan of Honda as a company at this point, though expecting an ethical car manufacturer might be like expecting a computer company to not use sweatshop labor. YMMV of course. I had a friend who had an identical car, I think same year, and his never showed a single issue with it. Mine had issues within the first few years (bought new).
Hi, thanks for the video! Do you recommend purchasing the whole part from the dealership and then replacing the top half with the solenoid gasket? That way no need to open the intake manifold. I’m just worried if it’s better replacing the whole unit or just the gaskets would be enough.
A lot of ways to go, Dorman Valve or OEM Solenoid valve, or just the gaskets, which are not made by Honda (Cheapest and least desirable, I think. The best, IMO, would be an OEM Valve with the gaskets included from Honda. Yes, just the upper portion of the VVT valve should be good as long as no damages to the base. Perhaps an OEM VVT Valve can be bought online at a lower cost. The dealer was close to $300 after taxes I think, and the dealer was closed on Saturday afternoon, so we went with the Dorman from O'Rielly's, using the top portion with the original "sandwiched" plate and the Dorman gaskets supplied with the part (about $120 at the time, I think). We've had no problems with the Dorman setup. vehicle is running fine. Thanks for watching!
@@cubmancan great, thanks for the reply and all that information. I’m planning to buy the OEM part and then just replacing the top half. How much do you think in labor should cost just to do the front half part? I have a 2013 Honda Pilot. Dealership quoted me over $1200 but that seems too much, decided to just do the half part with a local mechanic.
Has it leaked ever since? Any check engine light or rough idle?
No Leaks, Idle is Good, Have had some check engine lights activated, but at 190K miles, it happens due to other issues, from what I gather by the codes. Thanks for watching!
That’s hershel from walking dead
Scott Wilson! He hung out with Bert Reynolds... Here is an interview with him: th-cam.com/video/EgB-99gImGA/w-d-xo.html
Good video
Would this be the same for a 2008 Honda Accord v6????
Thanks for asking. Hope I can be of help with this - It likely is the same, especially if it looks the same externally. On this model, the oil dipstick tube is mounted in the base of this VVT Valve (front of engine passenger side right above the alternator).
There are two VVT valves on this engine, one VVT valve is on the front of the engine (the one in the video). There is also a VVT valve on the opposite corner of the engine in the back of the engine on the drivers seat side. Notice if you have oil leaking and where- I only did the front VVT valve (passenger side) as it was leaking oil there.
I understand that the Touring models (like this one) may have a different set-up than other engines so all the V6 engines may not have this particular type of VVT valve. One way to find out - compare the video parts with your own vehicle and notice how the oil dipstick tube is mounted, another, maybe better idea, would be to take your ID number to O'Reillys or Auto Zone and ask to look at the VVT valve for your own car (be aware - some parts people don't realize there are two on the engine though).. My Honda dealer parts department was nice enough to let me look at the VVT valve before buying it. I eventually bought and used the Dorman part (O'Reillys) which has worked out fine.
Also, if you only need gaskets, make sure you get them before disassembly, as dealers don't sell some gaskets separately from the Valve (as was my case). You can get gaskets on Amazon within just 2-4 days usually - make sure they look like the right shape..
Thanks for watching!
@@cubmancan your the best thanks 😃
Stay away from Dorman garbage always purchase genuine Honda or you will be doing this job again
Yup denso is the way to go