Valve Adjustment - How To - Honda/Acura 3.5 Pilot, Odyssey, MDX, Accord, Ridgeline, Isuzu, Saturn
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- Detailed How to on valve adjustment in Honda 3.5L engines.
Models covered include Honda Odyssey, Accord, Pilot, Ridgeline, Acura MDX, as well as other Acura, Isuzu with 3.5 Honda engine, as well as Saturn with 3.5 Honda engine
Tools from the Video:
Schley 10mm jam nut tool: amzn.to/2j9RDnO
10mm offset wrench: amzn.to/2kqf75o
Stubby screwdriver: amzn.to/2jWSxS6
Feeler Gauge Set: amzn.to/2kyACQC
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Thank you! This video really helped me, I am a single mom in KY, I bought a 2006 Honda Odyssey EX about 6 months ago for 4K, it ran great until it started overheating and losing radiator fluid constantly, I have a good friend that's a mechanic who offered to put a new water pump in it for me but unlucky for me he did not realize that engine is a non-interference engine and he bent 12 of my exhaust valves and 7 of my intake valves when he went to put it back in time... So very long story short I decided to pull the heads myself, with his help of course, sent them out to get rebuilt, that cost just over a grand, got the heads back, all new valves, got it back together, timing set perfect and all, started it up and it ran perfect except for a knocking in rocker arm number 4 so we take it back apart AGAIN and guess what.... the two nuts on rocker arm number 4 exhaust were gone!! Can't get the exhaust dropped because those bolts are rusted, took me 2 days to get the oil pan dropped enough to where I can get in there with a magnet and finally found the two missing nuts, I got tears in my eyes when I found them I was so happy. Slap some make a gasket on that oil pan yesterday, got me a tappet gauge getting ready to go out there and secure these two nuts with some loctite. I've never been so stressed out, I never realized mechanics went through so much of a headache to work on these vehicles I thought it was simple you turn a screw here and there, working on my own vehicle has really taught me a lot so Kudos to all who have to put up with this headache every day, it's going to take a month to get the grease out from under my nails!!
It was fairly easy.. prior to 1997.
James has been a lifesaver for me in the last 3 weeks, but noticed that he hasn’t posted in over 2 years. Hopefully he’s still making videos under another channel.
@@sunshine3914 yeah some of these videos can be a real life saver... Got a converter problem now... Getting ready to throw a new CO2 sensor on it and some of that cadiclean .... What a headache!!! And yes I also hope this guy is doing well and still making content somewhere
@HeroJeannaBomb that motor is an "interference motor" for sure. Non interference means valves won't be hit by the piston.
This is amazing! Your amazing! Incredible job for your first time congrats on the Honda!
@@noahmccraw2281 thanks but it's gone... I had to junk her a few weeks ago.. it was just one problem after another. I'm looking for another use vehicle as we type... Lol... Thanks for the comment tho.
Hint: Use compressed air to blow off debris from engine Before removing parts.
I've been adjusting valves since 1970s - Dodge 225, BMW R series Motorcycles, lawnmowers, etc etc. All required a developed feel. Old technique is follows: 1) use correct feeler gauge thickness and check work with smaller (won't fit) and larger thickness gauge (too loose). It also helps to smear oil on feeler gauges to make them slide easier.
One suggestion: if you're going to take off valve cover, may as well replace PCV valve.
Didn’t you mean the opposite, a smaller feeler gauge will be loose and a larger one won’t fit!
you can reach the pcv valve on j35s without taking anything off besides the beauty cover. Even then, instead of spending 30$ for a new oem one, I took some brake cleaner to mine and sprayed it out. All you really have to check for is if you blow into the end of it, it should open the valve
Thanks for this. Just did my onan geny and wish I knew this. Adjusting valves isn't something done very often anymore in the auto world.
Great video. I am contemplating buying a used Honda Pilot and was concerned about the lack of hydraulic lifters. This shows me it's not too bad to adjust the valves when needed.
12:10 - J series engines are rotated clockwise, not anti-clockwise. Great video!
Yes this is important
So he did it wrong? It's confusing because he rotated the numbers counter-clockwise like he said, but when rotating it that way the peephole shows what is clockwise from the previously viewed number the way he was rotating it. So is that clockwise or counter-clockwise?
@@davidaustin6962 turn it both ways just for fun!
I've heard of a few (maybe different country? and haven't verified that) Honda V6 running counter-clockwise, but yours, mine and probably most people watching this should turn clockwise ONLY (risk belt jumping a tooth if reversing.) - this all counter to this guy in this video. To my logic, if your hydraulic tensioner is to the left of the crank sprocket, you MUST turn clockwise to ensure there is always tension on the right side that does not have a tensioner.
Just did this today to a 2004 acura mdx this video is really good, was my first time doing this I just saved $450 thanks it came out good 👍 my scanner was reading all cylinder misfire before now its good runs smoother and stronger and no more turning off when it's cold
What was the original symptom though, ticking noise or noticably poor running? I'm looking at buyin an 07 Pilot J35A9 with a tick.. not sure if it's valves, cams, pistons or timing tensioner.
Did you buy that pilot? Resolve the nose?
Hell of a video man. Great job and thank you for putting this information out there for people.
Not as bad as I originally thought. Gives me the confidence to do it myself. I've had the constant P0300 and P0301-P0306 and there is absolutely no way all 6 ignition coils have failed at the exact same time. I keep thinking it's the valves myself. Looking forward to setting aside an afternoon to do this job. Also making sure I have all the tools you used. Should make the job easier. Great video!
I'm about to pull the plug on that one as well. All coils replaced with aftermarket and plugs also. I can't think of anything else that could be causing this. Random misfire sometimes at different cylinders. Have you confirmed that this is your issue? I used an oscilloscope with a pressure transducer but I don't see anything abnormal at the cylinder so I didn't condemn the valves.
@@scientist100 I haven't confirmed by doing it yet, I just traded the vehicle but I informed them that it had a miss. There's literally nothing else I could find that would be causing it to act this way. After plugs and coils are replaced and you're still getting random multiple misfires and misfires on each separate cylinder it begs the question what else could it be? I found multiple videos that take you through it step by step to adjust valves. If you do it or pay someone to do it, I'm confident that will solve your issue. Let me know what you find out. Thanks.
Valve clearances do need to be checked every 100k-150k miles, but do check your PCV and EGR valves as well for proper function as these tend to cause mpg, performance/oil problems when left unchecked. The EGR is pretty robust and can usually just be cleaned off to ensure that the solenoid plunger moves smoothly, but sometimes the PCV valve simply gets worn down and needs to be replaced, but it's not an expensive fix. (You can find them online for 22$-25$ on Amazon. = )
On my 2007 Pilot, fuel injector #4 is not firing or pulsing. Changed out that injector with a Honda injector. Still not firing correctly. It starts up but the display shows the icon flashing. The slight shaking & lost of power is there. Then changed out all 6 connectors as they crumbled with heat & age when pulled out. Added 6 new Iridium spark plugs. Changed out the manifold gasket & O-rings on the other injectors that are good. Still misfiring but running smoother now while idling. Does this sound like it needs a valve adjustment?
Great video! One of the very few to show where the crank and size are to move cylinders.
Honda V6 engine turn clockwise, counterclockwise are for engine timing cover and pulleys on Driver side. Turn it opposite might cause timing belt tensioner lose tension and timing belt jump teeths. Just want to add this before people start doing this job.
Omg YES you must turn your engine clockwise
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When you turn your j -series counterclockwise, the timing belt slack adjuster can compress and allow the timing belt jump a tooth .
@12:10, Agree, that should be clockwise.
@@CharlesCo918 I'm so grateful for yall comments
Good to know. I'm about to do a timing belt /water pump replacement in my 04 odessey.
To Joseph, remember to change the PCV valve and check the gasket behind the device that holds the oil filter. Once you are in this deep consider spark plugs, valve adjustment, fresh anti freeze, oil change, transmission fluid, power steering fluid and transmission filter. I also clean the engine before working on it. When ever I disconnect a electrical connection I spray it with CRC contact cleaner. Haynes automotive manuals are handy #42035 for your van. Good luck reply with? If ness
@@josephherron7671 and while your at it clean the EGR passage use CRC or supertech throttle body cleaner from Walmart I use the supertech because you get a lot more for less and it seems to be more effective at cleaning it has more acetone which is the active ingredient it causes it melt like Coca Cola the Honda V6 EGR will cause a misfire code too I’ve seen it on the J30 series V6 from experience my 2000 EX would do this there’s a video on TH-cam that explains this when the port clogs it requires manifold removal you will be surprised at the amount carbon that runs out of the manifold during the cleaning process and stick the stick into the EGR port hole on the engine block this is the culprit problem is Honda made the port hole too small that why it clogs easily causing misfires despite new spark plug and coil changes
Great tutorial,
It was pleasant to listen to without the rambling about everything else other than the actual fix,
You kept with the narrative ,
also annoying when comments are made about their own two cents
Oif how much experience everyone has and just because someone’s being doing something for 80 years doesn’t mean they’re doing it correctly, okay , my apologies as I’m doing just what I said annoyed me ,
I’ll shut up and watch your video again . Keep up the good work.
Great step by step video. But why counter clockwise? Ive seen multiple videos rotate counter clockwise yet the repair manual specifically states clockwise. Depends on the model? Im working on a 2013 pilot. Thanks
Just fyi... this fixed my honda pilot which was rough idle on cold start (and running lean)... the exhaust valves were super low ... the right side on each cylinder was completely closed. Amazing the car even worked. Now purrs like a kitten.
I MEAN, YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, SO TECHNICALLY YOU WILL GET IT DONE IN DECENT TIMING BUT OVER ALL HOW LONG WOULD YOU SAY SOMEONE THAT HASNT DONE THIS SPECIFIC JOB BEFORE BUT IS FAMILIAR WITH MACHANIC WORK? GUESSTIMATE ABOUT? aND I KNOW THIS IS OLDER THREAD BUT THE VIDEO IS GREAT AND YOU LITERALLY EXPLAINED EVERYTHING IN DETAIL AND SHOWED THE WORK CLEAR., REALLY YOU DID GREAT JOB ON THIS..
Thanks. I started before seeing the video. I am glad I checked because I realized I don't have some of the tools I need. I will be okay to do this job. Keep making vids!
Thanks. Just travelled up from Vegas to MT and I began having random misfires all of my cylinders on cold starts. Ran fine down in Vegas but once I got to the frosty white north, it began misfiring until the engine warmed up a bit. It isn't bad I can barely feel it, but I prefer not to let issues like this escalate. From what I've read it may need a valve adjustment but there are few other lower hanging items I'll cross off the list first. I have a feeling I'll be adjusting my valves when I get back. No idea if the previous owner ever got the valves adjusted when it was due, they didn't keep records, but I could at least tell they took good care of it. I've gotten all of the other maintenance items like plugs and fluids because they're easy and the timing belt because that could grenade the engine but this was one job I was holding off from doing.
Update
@@ygbodybuilder3023 Pretty sure it was just a fuel injector issue, issue went away after using in some injector cleaner. I still need to get around to buying injector cleaner kit, take them out and properly clean them.
@@creamofbotulismsoup9900 I just got the code for a misfire and I know damm well it's not the spark plugs because I just got them changed last year so I'm hoping it's the ignition coil and not the fuel injector
@@ygbodybuilder3023 Well, if it's just 1 or 2 cylinders misfiring, yeah could be plugs, wiring, coils, injectors and you can just start moving parts around to see if the problem moves or stays on the same cylinder. In my case it was an intermittent, multiple random misfire, and the misfire count was pretty consistent on all cylinders, indicating a system wide issue and they can be a bit more tedious and harder to track down.
One important thing to keep in mind, just because it's new doesn't mean it's not a problem, I would still swap plugs around assuming your dealing with a cylinder or 2.
@@ygbodybuilder3023You may want to check the back spark plug tubes, they may be filled with oil from leaking spark plug grommets. I just replaced mine yesterday, along with the upper and lower intake and valve cover gaskets. If the oil gets into the coil, there is your misfire. It is easy to check, just pull a coil, a 10mm socket is all you need.
Great video. Thank you very much. It took me a while to get the feel for the right lash. One thought... I think you should turn Honda engines clockwise, not counterclockwise. It's at 12:11 in your video.
You are really good at explaining this. Awesome video.
Man, great tutorial very informative
Glad you’re narrating this video with quality video , keep up the good work.
When you’re adjusting the valves should the valve have any play in it ?
Excellent video. Will be doing this procedure on my 2010 Acura MDX. Thanks for putting this out there.
Simply EXCELLENT!! Thank you! So clear and helpful! The red and yellow circles really help, as well as the engine diagram for cylinder numbers. Question: How many miles were on the 3.5 engine you used as a demo? I was surprised that the intake valves needed no adjustment. Yet the norm is that they need adjustment. Comments please?
Is this a common thing for hondas? What symptoms or circumstances would cause you to need to do this? Certain mileage?
So is this valve adjustment a fix for an intermittent massive, multiple cylinder missfire?? Running into an issue where under a load, accelerating it was a terrible missfire on almost every cylinder. Not a Honda guy so any pointer would be awesome 👍
It is likely a single cylinder misfire. These old Hondas aren't very good at identify single cylinder misfires. I usually will do a power balance test on these, by unplugging ignition coils one at a time while it's running. The engine should stumble each time you unplug one. If it doesn't, then that likely is your problem cylinder. Swapping coils and repeating the same test may lead you to find a bad coil
My Honda just threw this code and makes a noise when I first start it. I don’t have the funds now but would it be okay to continue driving it for some more weeks
I'm working on my Honda Pilot 2010 I'm having trouble how to check the clearance of the exhaust using the feeler gauge. You make it looks easy what is your technique? Is it also normal #5 cylinder rocker arms has a little play or moves little when wiggle it?
I am having the same issue. Cylinder 5 intake valve changes everytime I recheck it adjustment
So I got a eighth gen accord v6 and I just got a valve adjustment done on it and a week later today I started hearing back fire under acceleration and acceleration was pretty laggy would you say this is from possible improper valve adjustment?
If the valve was misadjusted, it would have a problem immediately, not a week later. It's likely either one of the Jam nuts came loose, or a connector/vacuum hose came loose.
Superb. Detailed and thorough. Thank you!
If I'm replacing the spool valve (leaking oil on to the alt) and the timing belt at the same time, should I do the valve adjustment first or after the belt swap?
Can this job be done with the cylinder off and on the work bench?
Do u have to rotate the valve back to where it start from? Like when u first had it in #1 then to #6. Oh do u turn the valve accordly like 1-6 and work on each valve?
I just did this myself and it took me like 5 hours!!!!! That's still $200/hour which is more than what I make at work so I went for it. The exhaust valves are the EFFIN WORST!!! Especially on the rear head!
You're doing it by feel on the rear side, right?
So after you adjust the valve how you know it’s working and is ok .
I’m planning to do this soon and helped a lot. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video. Learned a lot. Now I feel more comfortable to adjust the valves on my Pilot. Just replaced most of my front suspension parts and you make it easy to follow. Wish I could do the time belt as well. The only thing that is stop me is that crank bolt. Damn thing is torqued too tight.
I ran into that problem is well. It was so tight that (and I don't recommend this) I had a 3-ft extension pipe on which I was standing (and it brought it radially down over 2 ft to the ground) and it didn't budge (all of that twist was in the extension). My neighbor told me to put a blowtorch on the bolt, get it nice and hot, and then smack it good with a hammer. I did as he directed and it worked like a charm. To ensure that would never happen again, I put some anti seize on the threads, ran it back in, and torqued it to spec. I am not a mechanic, so verify that is advisable if you plan to try it (but I have not had one problem since).
@@nathaniels.newsom2698 Thanks for the tip on using a torch to heat the crank bolt. I do not have a heavy duty impact wrench and everything is done using a ratchet. The local mechanic wants $1400 to change the timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and a few seals. That's a lot of money for a few things changed. The labor is the biggest costs. I am not a mechanic by profession, but I am mechanically incline. Been wrenching in on cars for more than 30 years.
@@nathaniels.newsom2698 btw, how did you torque the crank bolt? I know the bolt is torqued to certain ft-lb and after that it is torqued a certain degree angle. How critical is that additional degree angle? Did you have your vehicle on a lift or jack stands? If on jack stands isn't difficult to get that additional leverage needed to torque that crank bolt, especially when the vehicle is so close to the ground.
@@harryl8234 that pulley bolt is a bear to get off there. I've watched a bunch of videos on that because my timing belt is due for replacement. The job isn't that difficult for anyone mechanically inclined. But buy a "heavy wall" socket made specifically to remove that bolt, and borrow a high torque impact gun to make the job easier. Soak the snot out of that bolt before you ever try to loosen it with Liquid Wrench. Do this a couple days in advance to work into the threads. When the time comes to tear it down, start with that balancer bolt first to break it free. If it doesn't break free you can easily put the tire back on and drive. The key is that heavy socket and strong impact wrench with penetrating oil. Watch Eric the Car Guy do it on his 2004 Pilot.
@@harryl8234 Yes, sir. The vehicle was on stands, the wheel was removed, and I believe I used a heavy duty extension, to get outside of the wheel well. Leverage was not an issue. The only issue I ran into was getting the bolt loose, prior to the blow torch trick, referenced above.
Do we need to rewind the camshaft to cylinder 1 mark or leave it at what ever cylinder you did last?
I have all cylinders misfire u think this is my problem that my valves all need adjusting???
If a valve is leaking can u start it with the cover off and see any signs?
Hey, got a 2004 Honda element no code map engine but at idle in the morning and when motor is warm, I'm getting around negative 15 both short term and long term. It smells of exhaust gasses quite heavily but engine doesn't run rough at all and only symptom I'm having is I feel I should have more power. Have new oem air fuel sensor and the rear o2 as well. All my live data looks normal like map, ect, ait, etc. Do you think since these engines need to have their valves adjusted and it's a new to me car with 160k, that valves being out of adjustment can cause a rich condition? Thank you.
Hey there, great video!! Just wondering if I do this with my 02 Odyssey, will I have to turn the crank by firing order or just when a number appears on the crank gear?
Just turn it til the number appears. You dont have to do it in any certain order, or start with any certain cylinder. The fastest way is just to adjust the cylinders as the numbers come up on the cam.
I'm told exhaust will tighten up and intake will loosen so better to make exhuast higher end of the range and intake lower end of the range. Although can't get it perfect. Some of the hoses that attach to the throttle body are coolant hoses you want to have some bolts ready to plug them. Also PS pressure hose has a bolt attaches to the rear cover at least on the 06 pilot might not see it.
What was the reasoning for adjusting the valves? I just started hearing what I hope is lifter clatter, and while researching it seems like adjusting the valves is pretty common on these.
Less about clatter and more about proper fuel air mix. Honda tends to have valves wear into the seats and they dont open properly. If yours is ticking the valves may have worn or lifters may be bad to incorrect oil or infrequently changed oil
It's mentioned in the recommended maintenance every 30k or so to adjust valves if they're "noisy" for 05-10 ODY
Great,now I'm stuck determining whether I should detach the whole front head for a thorough cleaning I see all these vids with pretty,shiny insides mines all sludge and gunk I been picking at with a screwdriver n rag,it's probably causing my ticking other than my valves so far being tight,intake and exhaust
Try some marvel mystery oil👍
Thank you Buddy your a very kind person for sharing. And awesome mechanic.
how long did it take you to perform the entire process?
My 2010 Pilot has a 3.5. Suspect this needs to be done. What does the motor sound like before and after this adjustment?
It should be done around 100k. But as far as sound goes. It sounds clattery when they're loose, and less so afterwards. Hard to describe in words, but if you're around 100k it needs to be done
I have an 05 Honda Odyssey with 260,000 miles I changed the oil/filter every 3000 with Valvoline Max life 5w20 and wix filter and I noticed a little bit of tick at idle, what's your or anyone else opinion do you think this would help stop the ticking and (no it's not a rod knock )it's definitely upper end I drive it everyday 50 to 100 mile, I love the van
It wouldn't hurt to check. You're way past factory recommended interval.
Great Video - Very helpful.
I am into the value adjustment on a 2001 Acura MDX. Working from a Haynes manual. Pretty consistent with your video. Manual says start with cyl #1, then cyl # 4 which comes in to the window next. Then it says to rotate engine 120 deg. to Cyl #2 which actually comes into the window right after #4. Does that makes sense? It seems I should do it as you indicated just when then the next Cyl # appears which when starting with #1 is the firing order.
First time working on this type of engine and a little unsure of myself. Don't want to make a mistake. Any thoughs would be appreciated.
I know these manuals are not always accurate with everything. Thanks much.
You could do it either way. I do it as they appear in the window because it saves time. Either way is acceptable though.
Thanks man! I can use this knowledge u shared with us for my future project 😁👍!!!
Noice
Hi can you use the old intake gaskets?
Very nice video, and very nicely explained. Thank you very much.
i have 02 acura mdx 6 cylinder i have all cilynder missfire 1 to 6 already replace all sparkplug and coil my car shake lot when acelerate you think maybe valve adjuted i need thank you great video
They all misfire with check engine light? All cylinders have codes? P0301-P0306??? If so, probably something else.
JamesonDIY p0301 to p0306 and p0300 great my car shake 40 to 70 speed
@@OSMARHIROSHI This specific failure mode is a TSB and an issue with the EGR Valve.
@J J was the valve lash ok and did it fix it after adjustments?
@J J thank you brother. I will scope all cylinders and see if I can catch this valve opening too soon or too late. It should be visible but Honda engines are advanced on timing I believe so it is hard to spot if there are no issues, just a gaping issue at the valve which would in return be a bit retarded if too loose or advanced if too tight.
Why not make a correction on your video making sure the engine is turned the right direction? I noticed before taking off any parts the crank turns clockwise and not counterclockwise. I’m wrong ?
Will the valves out of adjustment cause knocking of the engine ??
No. You've got a worn bearing in the engine.
Ok, I guess I'm the first. This is a pretty good video. You covered every thing I needed to know. Wasn't sure how I needed to turn the crank with this engine. That was very helpful. The rest looks pretty straight forward. Same adjusting technique as my 40 year old Porsche. Although the Porsche is more easily accessible. Funny how valve adjustments haven't changed drastically in 40 years. Really hate the time consuming trial and error method. Seems like there should be some fancy laser guided adjustment tool by now. Thanks again.
Yeah the Honda valve adjustments aren't bad. Other manufacturers like Kia/Hyundai, Subaru and some others are pretty horrific so I try to avoid those. But these Hondas are relatively easy, just time consuming til you've done it a few times. Good luck, and thanks for the comment.
Hey I've been looking everywhere to find the torque that the intake manifold bolts need to be at but cant find anything...
The 12mm bolts are something like 16 ft lb. The 10mm are like 80 or 90 inch pounds
@@AppalachianDIY thank you man.
I like that 10mm socket!
Exceptionally well-done video! Thanks a lot!
I have an 08 Honda Accord v6 and was quoted $230 to have this done. Does that sound about right? Thanks!
It sounds a little low. Maybe not a bad thing for you, but I'd make sure that's what they're doing. Typically a valve adjustment on these would be in the $400 range
JamesonDIY wouldn’t I be able to hear a difference?
I just meant verify they told you the right price for a valve adjustment
Was the price correct?
@@J__7777 $330
Great video. Without the tool, does it need to be a 10mm offset wrench? I only have a ratcheting one and don't want to get it all torn down to find out there's no clearance. Thanks!
Pick up a set for a few bucks at harbor freight
What is the correct clearance for intake and exhaust?
I was quoted by acura for the spark plugs replacement and valve adjust for over 1k.
Me too, I passed on it.
That's rape
Got a code p1399 (random misfire) on my ‘02 Odyssey. Do you think a valve adjustment would solve it? Already replaced plugs and checked coils for spark. Thanks. BTW, great video. Will watch multiple times if that is that route I need.
Does it tell you which cylinder? How many miles are on it? I'd probably look at changing the coil packs first.
Do i need a HDS to perform a valve adjustment on a 2019 ridgeling?
No scanner required.
18:40 good tip on throttle cable tension.
Do I need to buy a new intake gasket or can I reuse the old one?
it can be reused. I usually reuse them. But if money is not an issue, replacing it is obviously not a bad idea
If your doing your first valve adjustment at 100,000. Miles and you’re valve cover gaskets are not leaking, they have done there job. Now the question. Do you want to trust a gasket with 100 k on it to make it to the 200 k service? How much do you hate oil leeks. Up-2-u good luck
000
A parts list and tool list would help.... I might have to do this job with the car parked on a city street VERY far from my house and I'd only like to bring the tools/parts required.
Probably basic hand tools.
A socket set.
Torque wrenches
Pliers
Metric wrenches
Socket extenders and swivels
Etc
What's worst-case scenario if you never do this other than a noisy engine? I bought a cheap oddysey and don't want to put a lot of money into it but it sounds like this needs done. Engine is noisy but I dont want it blowing up either.
Oil consumption, loss of power, poor fuel economy to start. Unburnt fuel will start to negatively affect downstream parts including potentially O2 sensors, catalytic, etc.
Thanks for the video, im not doing the adjustment, but i want to advise the person whos doing it this way on my 08 Honda Accord EXL. Im assuming is the same exact engine, any reccomendations to not mess up the ECO system, cruise control or mess up any sensors that might mess with the computer or other electronics?
If it has throttle and cruise control cables, just adjust them the way I show in the video. If it's electronic throttle, you can't really mess anything up in that way. Just make sure all the connectors are plugged back in.
Goodness gracious, even my Kawasaki motorcycle has hydraulic lifters that require zero maintenance, what was Honda thinking by not installing any? Archaic design.
With the knowledge you passed on, I have decided to take my car to a mechanic...
lol
@@AppalachianDIY yah, wouldn't even attempt that along with timing belt water pump etc.
I got 2007 Honda Pilot. It just hit 200,000 mile and it started ticking in the front head. Does it need adjustment?
It should be done every 100k.
Maybe, but honda just got me for $1100.00 for timing belt service at 100k. I sure aint paying up another 600 anytime soon.
Very clear instructions, thanks!!
James, around the 18 minute mark of this video you said that you would post the link to a more detailed video on install/deinstall of the valve covers. Did I miss that? I can't find. Also, do you have a detailed list of the required gaskets, tools, and "other shop supplies" that I may need? Thanks, great video.
I actually forgot to post that video. Im not even sure if I still have the footage. I will check to see if I do. I think I listed most of the things in the video that you will need. But here it is:
- Valve cover gasket set
- RTV (I always use Ultra Grey Permatex) amzn.to/2ke43ME
- Upper intake gasket (not required, because it is reusable, but if you have the $$, might as well)
- Feeler Gauges like this amzn.to/2fH1oto (it doesn't have to be this one but it should be angled like this, and most Hondas will need sizes between .008 - .012)
- 10mm jam nut tool amzn.to/2yhglK8 (not required but makes it easier!)
- 10mm wrench and stubby flathead screwdriver, as well as normal screwdriver
- Something like razor blades to clean the old RTV off the heads
- Brake cleaner and rags/towels to clean gasket surfaces
- Notice the part where I turn the crankshaft over. I use a long extension with a 19mm socket. You dont have to to use a long extension, but it makes it easier to see what you're doing, and not be hunched over, under the car
- A telescoping mirror might be handy amzn.to/2x6ewdY
- Light! It's dark under there LOL
- I believe everything else is basic hand tools. Ratchets, sockets, extensions
Let me know if you have any other questions
JamesonDIY Thanks so much, heading to the parts store now!
ANY UPDATE ON YOUR EXPERIENCE DOING IT ?
Great video, however I would edit in text that it's clockwise rotation!! Hopefully you didn't jump timing! Thanks
is there a torque spec to the jam nut so no guessing to how tight to get it having that come loose would be catastrophic imo
It's 14 ft/lb
I have a question because I’m confused on the intake says .008 and .009 what and on the exhaust.0011 .0013 what number should I use on the intake and the exhaust
You need the specs first for your year, make, model. There is always a plus or minus .002 for each spec. Preferably you would have the feller gauge at the exact spec. Then that gives you plus or minus .002 for each spec on exhaust and intake. The further off your feeler gauges are from the spec, the more exacting you need to be when adjusting the valves. That's why I have several sets of feeler gauges to cover all the makes and models. Having the feeler gauge of the exact spec takes some guess work out of the process.
Honda engines usually get tight (smaller gap) on the exhaust valves over time. I recommend using 0.0013 according to your specified numbers.
Stay gold.
Thanks for the motivation looks like fun
How much more work is necessary to do the head gasket?
Awesome job and explaining!
considering doing this myself, but fear I'm a bit over my head... what's a job like this cost?
To pay a shop to do it? 3-5 hours labor depending on how they write it up. Figure around $100/hr more or less depending on the city you live in. They will probably add in the cost of valve cover gaskets, "shop supplies", and then tax on parts. So anywhere from $300 to $600 or so would be the average estimate
Local dealers want 600.00
My local Honda dealer quoted me $260 for this yesterday-- will post back if it ends up costing more-- IMO that is a decent price for how involved this is (a little daunting--mainly everything you have to do before you pull the valve covers)
@@GTASpuds725 how much the valve adjustment end up running you?
@@teamhogmeat Sorry for late response--- while the maintanance minder indicated this should be done, when I took the car in, they service guy said unless there was an issue that indicated this should be done he recommended I not do it (so I never did have it done)....
Nice heads cleans like mine on my Pilot!
Don't forget to help on my problem...
My biggest concern is forgetting to hook something back up. I usually take lots of pictures but I may actually do a video as well. So, valve cover gaskets, i take manifold gasket and spark plug grommets. What else?
Thanks for this video it was very helpful. I worked on a 2009 Honda pilot yesterday for a ticking noise. I used to rave about how great Hondas were made compared to other cars After I worked on that Pilot yesterday I am going to stop that. This engine sucks big time Its 2019 what the hell are we doing manually adjusting valve trains? What is this 1964? At least in old days when you had adjust valves you didn't have to take half the car apart to remove a valve cover. Also I thought timing belts were all but a distant memory but Honda still uses them? This 3.5 Honda engine is nothing but a maintenance pig. When we were looking for a new car it was a tossup between the Pilot and Highlander Thank Christ we went with the Highlander
so what other engines have you worked on?
well I guess a better question would be what engines I haven't worked on but pretty much every kind of engine there is I have tinkered with a lot of old school carbureted engines mostly Mopar is my favorite but chevys and fords too Every make of Asian engine including rotaries Bmw and mercs too Vws Every big bore commercial diesel made Mostly Cummins but also Detroits and Cats even small household engines like lawnmowers and weedwhackers Motorcycle engines too single cylinder and twin. Jet skis and boats too same idea as any other engine Even forklifts I have never worked on any turbofan aka Jet engine or any kind of radial engine such as those found in propeller driven aircraft, but and engine is an engine I don't care what kind of vehicle its in the basic operating idea is exactly the same for them all and if you can understand the basic operating principles of even a simple lawnmower engine you can fix just about any engine Its not that difficult to be a mechanic the pain in the ass comes from how different mfgrs design and assemble some of these engines and the limited access you have to work on some of this stuff
@@dodgeking9194 nice, thats quite the resume. ive only done valve adjustments on my 4banger civic, which really didnt seem to hard. This 3.5 just adds the hassle of removing the manifold unfortunately. gonna tackle it this weekend. anyways i really have no idea how much easier this is on other cars, but i know my jeep doesnt need it cuz, if i remember right, they're "hydraulic lifted valves" or something like that where they never need it.
Agree with comment: the Acura 4 cylinder went from rubber to steel timing chain. With the synthetic oils and micro oil filters, seems hydraulic valves would be better.
I had to take the whole rocker assembly off to change vvt selniod on my 09 honda 3.5l and I torgued it down evenly and 2 weeks later I started getting misfires on cylinders 4 5 and 6 when cold started only. After some research I discovered its a value issue go figure.
what is the correct clearance on a 2014 Odyssey?
i believe it's the same, but log onto autozone, enter your car, go to repair manuals, engine components, then valve lash clearance
Very good doctor mechanic congratulación
I just did this on my 07 Pilot, but I forgot to make sure each cylinder was on the compression stroke (both valves closed). It sounds super chattery now.
What does this mean? He never mentions that, or how to do that.
I have a car replaced all coils, and plugs 07 odyssey. Misfire cyl 6 P0306. switched injectors for from 6 to 5.. still cyl 6 miss. It is not a consistent miss either. it comes and goes.. been driving me nuts.. has about 120k miles on it. I am having issues because my employer does not have many of the diagnostic tools, or subscriptions to identafix, alldata, etc.. just mitchel which I find great for wire diagrams.. but no so great for other things. I am wondering if it is just the valves in cyl 6 need adjustment now..
On hondas Lean , Rich , Misfire codes its 95% is time for valve adjustment !!!!
@@vladimirabaimov4694 No wonder I could not find this, though I should have been able to see if there was an issue with valve clearance when using a pressure transducer at the cylinder, unless the scanner is not marking the right cylinder that is missing.
What City your in?
Will that give me a p0172 and p0175 codes?
i thought the Odyssey engine/crankshaft rotate clockwise? Anyway i used clockwise direction when i did my timing belt. Thanks, losing to do this on my MDX next
Yeah clockwise is right
@@AppalachianDIY You really need to put a noticeable edit on this video or pinned commment before it leads to everyone damaging their valves or jumping time. These Honda V6 engines rotate CLOCKWISE!! Great video, but you seem to dismiss the importance of turning the engine the right direction, very irresposible in my opinion.
@@heynowwassup Thanks, I'll do that
@@AppalachianDIY Not done yet
You simplified it, awesome
Do you have to torque the locknuts?
There is a torque spec for everything, but I have never torqued them. I just make sure they're tight
Do you need to torque the locknut after done with the adjustment? Or not ?
Im sure there is a torque spec for that, but I have never done that. I get them tighter than your average 10mm bolt or nut, because they are harder steel than your average 10mm bolt or nut.
i see another question on my odyssey 2001 said intake 22mm exhaust 28 its the same as 0.008 in intake ex 0.011in right?
.20mm and .28mm
but you can use those on in ( right ? if i don't have a gauge set with those metrics number ) r ?
can i used a number 0.012 cause of the set that you have on the description doesn't have a 11 in
For an Acura MDX 2002 yeah How much compression pressure should each cylinder in the motor have?/
New, around 150 or higher psi, but that will lower over the years, and miles. The important thing is that all the cylinders are very close in compression to each other
@@AppalachianDIY thanks for the info, my mechanic claims that my engine has 175 compression and he keeps saying that there should be no reason to adjust the valves but we've already done the EGR replaced replace coils more than once, replaced spark plugs we clean the whole bunch of carbon out of the EGR and there was also oil getting into my plugs, and I'm still getting the Miss fires on several cylinders and then multiple misfires. This is wearing me down I've already invested a lot of money and time and my mechanic still can't get it right
On those engines, clogged egr passages, and valves that are too tight are very common to cause misfires. Valve adjustment is due at 100k miles. I've done lots of these at work, and the exhaust valves are always too tight over 100k miles, if never been adjusted. Obvious other misfire causes could be bad coils or even leaking head gasket. There are quite a few things but they can all be tested for, typically without guessing. Oh and I've also seen burnt valves on those. Less common but easy to test for, especially when you've tried so many other things
@@AppalachianDIY okay thanks again for the info. I'll pass this along to my mechanic and hopefully my issue gets resolved
@@AppalachianDIY and what's the gap on the valve adjustment please?
JamesonDIY Can you help me on my 2003 Honda Pilot????
My problem is that the #2 bank 4_5 & 6 when I started my engine
Are active but #1 bank. 1_2 & 3 are dead completely
What I mean by this is that i f I desconect one of the coil wire
In this case volts the cylinder remain the same don't missed
There's compression on the cylinders there's spark too
But there's no miss if I desconect electricity to that coil.
And here is the point I wanted to know why is this happening
When you start the engine the engine is working like if there's
Nothing wrong no shake.
Then I decided to take the electricity wire of from
Cylinders 4_5 & 6
Then I started the engine without those cylinder
And the engine started with #_1_2 &3
And if I took one of the coil wires off the cylinder misses.
If I put it back it recover.
Then I if I connect #4_5&6 back
#1_2&3 won't work.
I know it is the computer doing it
But Why. So put another comp
Wish I had to programming because it won't start
Then I did and I have it running but it is doing
The same thing...
This is my problem I've talk my problem with many mechanics
And electro mechanics and they do some scan and everything
Is fine. I even talked to Hondas dealers mechanics and one said is the
Comp. But I change it and still...
Can you or someone comes up with a logistic??
PLEASE🔐
Did you figure out what this problem was? I'm having the exact same issue and I'm having a hard time diagnosis this one lol. I may need to look at the valve clearance just in case. Mine are also marked as misfiring at 4, 5 & 6 and then when stepping on gas, it missed on 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 lol. O2 upstream oscillates normal at all times, short trim is at about .81 & long term at about 1. It eventually went to .82 and short would be ok if I rev up the engine. There is always a constant miss for sure.
@@scientist100 Not yet Broo! I 've asked many horses in this area and no one
Answer me they only send me a like💜
🤭 and i explained in details..
What year is yours??
@@danielandujar5479 mine is 2003 EX I know I have an issue with the EGR not fully seating but not enough to be flagged by the PCM. I will use more advanced gauges to check the manifold pressure during idle. I suspect an exhaust valve clearance issue.
@@scientist100 My real problem is that in less than 1 minute the short term fuel tream on bank 1 goes down to -27.3% and that cause me to loose those 3 cylinders.
And since i don't have more than 2 oxigen sensors Up & Dn stream
I can't read bank 2 but they're working
Because the evidence is right at the plugs they're clean and all cylinders missed. But what confuses me is why is affecting only one bank.
And why if i disconnect those 3 cylinders on bank 2 then the pcm put bank 1 to work and if you disconnect one of the coils that cylinder missed
But not when they're all connected. And everything related has been replaced and the pcm detect any sensor that you disable on purpose..
My case is something else🤦♂️
I asked other mechanics and they mentione things that i already replaced
I 've been working and fixing others people cars and no one can't help me on mine🤭 Not even online.
In another words pcm is taking fuel away from that particular bank...
Those injectors are new and i even exchanged them to see and still.
Valve adjustment is perfect.
Please🤦♂️What ELSE???
I exchanged
Sparks
Coils
Injectors
I've been using all the logistic
And still..
Maybe someone with a better scanner🤺👣☕😁Take care Broo thank's for sharing. Saludos from Puerto Rico USA⛱ 🏃♂️🚴♂️ 🏊♂️
You tells me i will do🙏
May the Lord Bless🤲
@@danielandujar5479 you may have an exhaust leak in that case. Spray water around that bank where the seals are and see if the rpm changes while you do that. You may have have an internal leak which according to scanner danner, you'd unplug the PCV valve and plug both holes (or just crimp the hose to block off air flowing) and install a vacuum gage at the oil dipstick to see if you have vacuum. If you do, you have an internal leak. I dont think that is your issue but another thing to look at.
Thank.you for being thorough. I looked up the tool on ebay, found a knock off. Hope it works. Im replacing bent valves!
Ouch! Interference engine. Did you lose the timing belt?
@@mrreymundo5383 yes :(
@@vosburght which tool?
@@adamoooo2 the tool like this one: www.jegs.com/i/Powerbuilt/211/648827/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjwx9_4BRAHEiwApAt0zgWlDtBlhmlnSeP2ktJMf1eWGVO2-e7tADwJWE3_w2tC2KkEoZ6aahoCzhYQAvD_BwE#