Great Video. And it was great you tied it back to the Honda Service Bulletin. I wish I had seen your video last week. I just had the entire spool valve replaced last week. I was going to go the route of buying the Dorman gasket, but could not get them locally. I had heard about the EBay counterfeits via other videos. My Honda dealership apparently is not aware of the service bulletin. I am going to print it out and take it to them for info; maybe it will help someone else save some money. My advisor said they are doing spool valve replacements all the time to the tune of $1,500 each.
This is just my experience. I bought some gaskets from amazon. They were thin and lasted 6 months before they started leaking again. I bought Mahle brand from Oriellyauto. They were thicker. I just reused the old filter. Make sure to clean the filter well. So far, so good. Knock on woods. The reason for the check engine light is due to the plate. It needs to be perfectly flat when torquing down. If you over torque or under torque, it will cause cel. I reset the cel and play with tightening/loosening the bolts. It took a few try before everything was OK. Hope this helps.
I’ve took my 2014 Honda Odyssey to the dealership for this issue and 2 weeks later it’s leaking again- thanks for the video- if they cant fix it right I’ll do this myself thanks for posting this video its very helpful
@@brinafeeslet them retorque it. Sometimes if it does leak then back then off ever so slightly and retorque. Keep checking though to make sure that works…..
Well done my friend. I've seen a lot of tutorials for Honda related things but few people can get the details right, even some of the more popular YT mechanics out there. But you did an excellent job. I regularly monitor this area on our 2012 Accord V6. The ideal scenario is catching this leak before it ruins the alternator, but not everyone is so lucky. THus far, I have never heard of anyone seeing the leak return after doing this the right way with the Honda part. The only other note I'd add is to use those smaller torque wrenches with caution. 6 ft lbs is not a lot, and the smaller torque wrenches often don't "click" the same way the bigger ones do, it's easy to miss and could result in you overtorquing the bolts by mistake.
Thank you for the video and walkthrough. my alternator is toast at 85k miles but I don't think my spool valve is leaking nearly as much as yours, if at all. I appreciate the effort to show us how it works/why/etc.
After watching your video I decided to correct the leaking, I have to say that because of your video and how good was the explanations my installation went flawless. I got the part from Honda for about $260 and it was worth it. I didn't want to have issues with cheaper fixes down the road. Most importantly a peace of mind. It was rough going at the beginning because I have never done any repair in my life but I followed your video and all went smooth. Thanks Alot @Belacallots
Francisco, that is amazing. 4 years ago I had never worked on a car. I’m a seasoned engineer and adept at fixing anything else but growing up my family didn’t work on cars. Start collecting the tools, jack, jack stands, etc. from Facebook Marketplace and you will start saving so much money. It also gives you the ability to pay cash for your inexpensive cars knowing you can fix stuff. You can also rent tools you don’t have at the auto parts stores. The most important tool is TH-cam though.
Great video and information. You deserve an award. I have a leak in that area. Ordered the spool valve (15810-R70-A04) for ~$210 and going to attempt to do this myself.
If you dont take care of this leak quick, it will kill the alternator eventually. I have gone over 3 alternators until I figure out what the dang issue was. Good thing I was able to swap the alternators by using the warranty on them. Also, to save yourself from killing the alternator, I put some aluminum foil paper on top of it. that way it will drip to the floor and not into the alternator. This has help me avoid killing the alternator while I get to the leak. Also, while I take my time repairing the leak. I wedge some paper towel in the space between the selenoid and the alternator cable to help absorb the oil. Buys me time until I can get the work done. Going back to your comment. yep, those amazon and ebay ones are worthless.
Did you have to use anything to keep the aluminum foil in place? Or did it just stay there on its own? You would think it might blow around in there a bit. Maybe not though. 🤷
@@NuCkInFuTs1 It stay there on its own (on the 2nd one). I just wedge it in there and it stayed in place. For the 3rd one, the one I have on now, I covered it and put some tape on it before it went in. I hope that helps
UPDATE : I purchased the oem valve spool weeks ago (210$) and finally got around to installing it, following the Honda announcement document and this video. I was having oil seepage around valve cover and this spool area so I thought I'd start by doing this repair first. One thing to note, when you remove the top rocker arm, some oil may spill out. Make sure to have the alternator covered before you do this install!
Thank you for this video. My wifes 2012 just started leaking again. I changed the gasket out I didn't have any codes but after about 2 moths it started leaking again. I will have to go this route and hope it works out.
I have had a lot of trouble with Dorman parts, most notably electronic parts such as V-TEC spool valves, for my RSXes. Dorman OE Solutions reminds us IN ITS NAME that OE is the solution.
I just went through the same ordeal on a customers RDX. Replaced valve cover gasket but still had a leak. Turns out the spool valve was leaking and i tried changing out the gaskets with Mahle brand from a parts store. Leaked right away and i tried the "knockoff" honda gaskets from Amazon which also leaked right away. I ended up buying a spool valve assembly from the Acura dealership and installed it per the TSB. No leaks and everything seems to be holding up fine one week after doing the job.
I used the Mahle replacement gasket, bought from local Oreily's, $28 top and bottom gasket, and reused the metal plate. I checked the screens, they were identical to my eye, and I did not put under a microscope to inspect. So far, no leaks or codes, been a few weeks... If it leaks, I will find this video again and report. MAHLE (VVT) Solenoid Gasket - GS34049
I just put in the Amazon one, drove it around for about 5 miles, no check engine light. Left the screen it came with. We'll see how it goes. Im driving about 150 miles later today I'll report back if I get a CE light.
@@denisouncho2513 Nice, I did eBay, and also switched the screens around. Just did it today so hopefully it holds. How long has your gasket lasted so far?
Had same exact route - replaced gaskets I got from amazon , after 60 miles got valve stuck code. I think issue is not with mesh being tight ( since it took many miles to get the code ) it is material fake gaskets made from - engine oil dilutes cheap rubber and it got into valve and valve got stuck. ONLY OEM after that
I have 2011 Crosstour and am having the oil leak. This seems so easy bit not worth $200 for a part i wont use but just the gaskets. So what other gaskets can i use?
Part cost me 288 and had no gaskets . I replaced the alternator 2 times today being the sec time .. not starting the car until I get gaskets but it's 10pm so the stores are closed
Made a mistake and bought a dorman spool valve still leaked but not as bad as before. Just ordered a genuine honda Spool valve from honda. Just using the dorman one to hold me over until the honda one comes in
Even with honda oem spool valve the whole part and gaskets from honda it still dribbles and leaks. I cant seem to get it right any suggestions? Its just barely a dribble.
Back the bolts up a bit. Tighten in a cross-cross pattern like lug nuts to get them symmetric. If you used a torque wrench increase the torque a little bit. That can solve it. Let me know how that goes
Did you lubricate the gasket at all with some oil? I was gonna pull it all and doable check everything maybe lube the gasket just a bit with clean oil. @belacallots
I think this is my issue that's killing my alternators too. This will be #3 I have to replace. I disconnected the positive after putting in a new battery, does this mean my alternator is truly dead?
I went thru several alternators and batteries. I have noticed in general I go thru a battery every 8 months in my Odyssey. I just get the very nice battery from AutoZone then they warranty it every 8 months. Free. I think the power doors that we use incessantly and less than 3 mile avg trips just toast those batteries.
On this Odyssey I did loosen the bolts and retighten 2 days later for a very very very slow leak. Bone dry now still 5 weeks later. With this not leaking the battery light that would come on intermittently has been off since. I attribute that to no more oil leaking on the alternator.
Mahle makes good stuff and sells just the gasket. I'm pretty sure you can still order it throught Auto Zone or OReillys'. Or another option if you bought an ebay gasket is to just clean up the old OEM screen and swap it into the new rubber gasket. If you just let it leak, it Will ruin your alternator.
It’s not a recall so you pay. In my case they wanted $1,600ish. They wanted to do the spool valve replacement but also included the manifold gasket and valve adjustment. Then they figured since they were doing that they might as well loosen up the rocker arms and replace the lower spool valve. Then they also insisted the battery and alternator needed replaced for good measure. All in all they wanted $3,000ish. I did the only thing that actually needed to be done which was the upper spool valve for 200ish. To do just the upper spool valve only like the TSB they wanted 600 I think. So $400 for about 45 minutes of work. They charged me $200 to assess and quote as well
I walked into the dealership and got it. I have gotten screwed on fake parts from amazon, eBay, and other places so I don’t risk it with expensive critical items like this.
@@belacallots I got mine from some random Florida car dealership off of amazon and even tho the part itself looked as legit as it gets and so far is working just fine, the box it came in and especially the red Honda sticker got me thinking. Didn't say the usual Made in Japan or Assembled in the USA but simply MX? Made in Mexico? Looks like Honda got their manufacturing plant in Mexico, too. But anyway, now I see yours is exactly the same so if that's a fake I might as well keep it! Thanks.
@@bennykill4 then Probably fine. Out of Convenience and not knowing when I started working on my own cars it took getting burned many times until I stopped buying stuff online. More expensive but in this case I ruined an alternator and messed around with all kinds of gaskets. The timing belt kit is the most dangerous deep fake. It looks so real but isn’t. Readily available on amazon and eBay. I bought it and it looked fine. I needed another seal or something so I bought that from the dealer for a couple bucks and when I got home the bag was much different than the other seal I had messed up installing. On the odyssey forum these fakes are well documented.
I had tried to replace the gasket with the Doorman generic and it leaked after a couple weeks. From research this is a common problem and Honda says to replace the entire upper valve portion. I think it’s because something changed with the upper valve half. If you buy the genuine Honda part which is the whole valve assembly it’s the same amount of work anyhow.
Honda brand spool valve from the dealership. $220. No check engine light. No leaking 1 month later. Be very particular on the torque. If you notice it leaking back the screws up a tiny bit and retorque to spec. You can try to do the gasket but you risk it not working and burning up your alternator. I fooled around with the fake gasket and then the Doorman gasket. Neither worked long term and burned up my alternator from all the oil leaking right into the alternator. Do it right and do it once.
@@windycityben4850 Yes. Like the timing belt "kits" sold on Amazon and eBay. Those are fake don't buy them. Honda doesn't sell a kit and you could get yourself in huge trouble putting in a fake water pump and timing belt. As terrible as it is and inconvenient the dealer is the safest option for critical parts.
Well, I just change out the gaskets for my 2008 with the exact same "fake" eBay bought gaskets you have in your thumbnail pic. I took it for a test drive and the check engine light DID come on with a P3497 code about 1/4 of a mile into the drive. I cleared the code and drove it for another 2 miles and it did NOT come back on... yet? I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow (10 miles) and see what happens. The good news: No more leak. So maybe the engine oil just had to fill into the Valve first. Otherwise, the sensor throws the code suspecting an oil pressure issue... Just a theory right now.
Yeah you can but then you are into the rocker arms and it becomes a day of it and more risk of messing something else up for somebody like me that is not a propro.
I have the same van I'm dealing with the same problem and a rattle like heard on urs mine was like that now it's worse thought it was lifters but now pretty sure it's timing belt tensioner
@@sinistersteel1042I’m not sure. The upper I installed is still not leaking. Are you talking about the alignment pins in the new lower that can be seen at 9:20 on the new part? You think I am missing one of those on the existing bottom?
@@belacallots mine is a 2008 exl and it has these 2 hollow pins I guess u can call them that go in opposite corners around the bolts that cause friction between the plate and the two half's keeping them sandwiched tight together in the upper left of your old bottom I didn't see one but in the new one from the box I seen them I'm pretty sure if u don't torque them and just snug it really good it will not leak that's what I did
The microphone makes the engine sound far worse than it really sounds. The Timing Belt Tensioner is new. There is a slight tick or knock to the engine. 200k miles.
Mine's not leaking YET, but I should have bought the part last week for $171 when I bought some other parts. THIS WEEK, it's $182.78!!!! This inflation is unbelievable. Worse than the mid 70s Jimmy Carter days, which I lived through and had to exist as a college student. Anyway, has anyone tried to remove the top half, clean the outer edge and then only the outer edge of the bottom half with acetone-I mean REALLY good, where no oil exists where it needs to be sealed. Then, seal both halves of the outer edges with HondaBond? Obviously the outer part of the gasket is not sealing so only the outer edge of the housing would need to be sealed. The other internal parts of the gasket must not be leaking (much) since no code is being thrown and therefore they can be left alone. I think when I have to buy this part, I will try that first, and if successful, send the part back.
There is a video on TH-cam of a guy doing this. Maybe not as meticulous as you are talking about when cleaning up the mating surfaces. You could try. When I replaced it with the different fake gaskets everything appeared fine. Then later on it started gushing oil into my alternator. It doesn't drip down onto the floor so there is no way of telling unless you keep checking it constantly. Replacing the upper is a sure thing though.
Doorman parts are shit and I wouldn’t use them for any Honda replacement parts. On the K-24 A3 4 cylinder engine I got a replacement VTEC solenoid made in Japan for $130.00 Oem off eBay with no problems but there are some VTEC solenoids that were like $80.00 and are probably made in china in which case I wouldn’t touch.
Idk why people buy the whole thing. All you need are the 2 gaskets if you're replacing them due to leaks. Pressure switch and vvt solenoid are still working, so why replace them. 😅 Gaskets are $5.00
For me the gaskets leaked and also gave me codes with the check engine light. I spent a lot of time fussing with those when I could have been one and done doing it as Honda recommended. Costs more but time is money and would save a lot of frustration.
Out of curiosity, did you replace only the gaskets? Or the entire upper assembly? I bought the whole assembly from Dorman hoping that it might solve my issue. I already tried a set of the fake honda gaskets from eBay and it kept leaking
If you have yours leaking replace asap. I was on a road trip when mine started leaking. By the time I got home and replaced it, oil spilling onto my alternator messed it up and had to replace the alternator.
I didn't know about this issue when my alternator died. We were driving on hwy 10 from Florida to Texas and got stranded July 15 on the side of the hwy. By the time they got us towed to a local pep boys to replace the alternator, we had spent at least 4 hours waiting under a tree on the side of the hwy. My 2nd alternator started to act up again and that when I discovered that this damn spool valve was responsible.
Great Video. And it was great you tied it back to the Honda Service Bulletin. I wish I had seen your video last week. I just had the entire spool valve replaced last week. I was going to go the route of buying the Dorman gasket, but could not get them locally. I had heard about the EBay counterfeits via other videos. My Honda dealership apparently is not aware of the service bulletin. I am going to print it out and take it to them for info; maybe it will help someone else save some money. My advisor said they are doing spool valve replacements all the time to the tune of $1,500 each.
I hope they did a valve adjustment for you while they were in there!!
This is just my experience. I bought some gaskets from amazon. They were thin and lasted 6 months before they started leaking again. I bought Mahle brand from Oriellyauto. They were thicker. I just reused the old filter. Make sure to clean the filter well. So far, so good. Knock on woods. The reason for the check engine light is due to the plate. It needs to be perfectly flat when torquing down. If you over torque or under torque, it will cause cel. I reset the cel and play with tightening/loosening the bolts. It took a few try before everything was OK. Hope this helps.
I’ve took my 2014 Honda Odyssey to the dealership for this issue and 2 weeks later it’s leaking again- thanks for the video- if they cant fix it right I’ll do this myself thanks for posting this video its very helpful
Try to find out exactly what they did. If they will tell you....
Most definitely, they had my van for 3 days
Update: took it back to the shop and they told me that it needed to be Adjusted and retort
@@brinafeeslet them retorque it. Sometimes if it does leak then back then off ever so slightly and retorque. Keep checking though to make sure that works…..
Yeah im doing my own my wife wanted to go to the dealership lmbo shid pay 😂😂
Well done my friend. I've seen a lot of tutorials for Honda related things but few people can get the details right, even some of the more popular YT mechanics out there. But you did an excellent job. I regularly monitor this area on our 2012 Accord V6. The ideal scenario is catching this leak before it ruins the alternator, but not everyone is so lucky.
THus far, I have never heard of anyone seeing the leak return after doing this the right way with the Honda part.
The only other note I'd add is to use those smaller torque wrenches with caution. 6 ft lbs is not a lot, and the smaller torque wrenches often don't "click" the same way the bigger ones do, it's easy to miss and could result in you overtorquing the bolts by mistake.
Thank you for the video and walkthrough. my alternator is toast at 85k miles but I don't think my spool valve is leaking nearly as much as yours, if at all. I appreciate the effort to show us how it works/why/etc.
Glad it helped
After watching your video I decided to correct the leaking, I have to say that because of your video and how good was the explanations my installation went flawless. I got the part from Honda for about $260 and it was worth it. I didn't want to have issues with cheaper fixes down the road. Most importantly a peace of mind. It was rough going at the beginning because I have never done any repair in my life but I followed your video and all went smooth. Thanks Alot @Belacallots
Francisco, that is amazing. 4 years ago I had never worked on a car. I’m a seasoned engineer and adept at fixing anything else but growing up my family didn’t work on cars. Start collecting the tools, jack, jack stands, etc. from Facebook Marketplace and you will start saving so much money. It also gives you the ability to pay cash for your inexpensive cars knowing you can fix stuff. You can also rent tools you don’t have at the auto parts stores. The most important tool is TH-cam though.
Great video and information. You deserve an award. I have a leak in that area. Ordered the spool valve (15810-R70-A04) for ~$210 and going to attempt to do this myself.
Post an update for us when you get it done
If you dont take care of this leak quick, it will kill the alternator eventually. I have gone over 3 alternators until I figure out what the dang issue was. Good thing I was able to swap the alternators by using the warranty on them. Also, to save yourself from killing the alternator, I put some aluminum foil paper on top of it. that way it will drip to the floor and not into the alternator. This has help me avoid killing the alternator while I get to the leak. Also, while I take my time repairing the leak. I wedge some paper towel in the space between the selenoid and the alternator cable to help absorb the oil. Buys me time until I can get the work done. Going back to your comment. yep, those amazon and ebay ones are worthless.
How long till it went out between your 2nd alternator on to ur 3rd asking for a friend lol
Did you have to use anything to keep the aluminum foil in place? Or did it just stay there on its own? You would think it might blow around in there a bit. Maybe not though. 🤷
@@NuCkInFuTs1 It stay there on its own (on the 2nd one). I just wedge it in there and it stayed in place. For the 3rd one, the one I have on now, I covered it and put some tape on it before it went in. I hope that helps
@@tothetexaschiefalotrecords738 I want to say between 6 months to a year.
@@itsjiraheta well I just change it this weekend so far it isn't leaking right now but will keep an eye out
UPDATE : I purchased the oem valve spool weeks ago (210$) and finally got around to installing it, following the Honda announcement document and this video. I was having oil seepage around valve cover and this spool area so I thought I'd start by doing this repair first.
One thing to note, when you remove the top rocker arm, some oil may spill out. Make sure to have the alternator covered before you do this install!
I have the same oil leak around the spool valve and valve cover. Did you resolve it ?
Dorman gasket set did work for me. But, I didn't have that bad of leak to begin with. Maybe something got warped?
Thank you for this video. My wifes 2012 just started leaking again. I changed the gasket out I didn't have any codes but after about 2 moths it started leaking again. I will have to go this route and hope it works out.
I suggest you get a VCM delete kit,it will fix the issue.Look that up on TH-cam as well
@@denisouncho2513 I will check that out. Thank you for the info
@@denisouncho2513I got that but it didn't prevent the leak from returning. I just ordered an OEM spool valve and will try this.
I have had a lot of trouble with Dorman parts, most notably electronic parts such as V-TEC spool valves, for my RSXes. Dorman OE Solutions reminds us IN ITS NAME that OE is the solution.
I just went through the same ordeal on a customers RDX. Replaced valve cover gasket but still had a leak. Turns out the spool valve was leaking and i tried changing out the gaskets with Mahle brand from a parts store. Leaked right away and i tried the "knockoff" honda gaskets from Amazon which also leaked right away. I ended up buying a spool valve assembly from the Acura dealership and installed it per the TSB. No leaks and everything seems to be holding up fine one week after doing the job.
I used the Mahle replacement gasket, bought from local Oreily's, $28 top and bottom gasket, and reused the metal plate. I checked the screens, they were identical to my eye, and I did not put under a microscope to inspect. So far, no leaks or codes, been a few weeks... If it leaks, I will find this video again and report. MAHLE (VVT) Solenoid Gasket - GS34049
Please do report back at 6 months and one year so we know how it goes.
Still holding up?
@@forknapkin So far, no issues...
Still working good?🤔😁. Thanks
@@alfredode6142 So far so good!
Well rule number one “ you get what you pay for” and we learned the hard way. $$$
I just put in the Amazon one, drove it around for about 5 miles, no check engine light. Left the screen it came with. We'll see how it goes. Im driving about 150 miles later today I'll report back if I get a CE light.
How did it go so far?
@@denisouncho2513 Report?
Report?
@@JoBianco i got mines from ebay and works fine so far
@@denisouncho2513 Nice, I did eBay, and also switched the screens around. Just did it today so hopefully it holds. How long has your gasket lasted so far?
Thank you, you saved me a lot of work!
Super!!
Good tutorial!
Just curious did it stop leaking till today? i have the same exact problem
Had same exact route - replaced gaskets I got from amazon , after 60 miles got valve stuck code. I think issue is not with mesh being tight ( since it took many miles to get the code ) it is material fake gaskets made from - engine oil dilutes cheap rubber and it got into valve and valve got stuck. ONLY OEM after that
I have 2011 Crosstour and am having the oil leak. This seems so easy bit not worth $200 for a part i wont use but just the gaskets. So what other gaskets can i use?
I’m not familiar with the Crosstour. If it is leaking from the VVT solenoid like this the best option is to replace the whole thing I would guess.
Part cost me 288 and had no gaskets . I replaced the alternator 2 times today being the sec time .. not starting the car until I get gaskets but it's 10pm so the stores are closed
Lmao im happy to see the gasket is in the part lmao about to put it in now
Do you recommend the gates brand? many say that dorman brand stinks. Thanks
I’m not sure about that one. I bit the bullet and went for the big fix before messing with it more.
Will be using rtvi on original gaskets tonight
Give us an update as to how it goes.
@@belacallots if it won’t leak and trips check engine but engine works fine than f#ck it - im not paying 400$ for the new solenoid
@@belacallots ok so today was first day….. so far no check engine light and no oil leak
Hopefully it will stay that way - will let you know in a month
@@ydid7552How about now?
@@bjones1042 zero leaks and no check engine light
Any update?
Made a mistake and bought a dorman spool valve still leaked but not as bad as before. Just ordered a genuine honda Spool valve from honda. Just using the dorman one to hold me over until the honda one comes in
Let us know how the spool valve works out. I popped the hood to check on it again last night. So dry. So satisfying to have it fixed finally.
Even with honda oem spool valve the whole part and gaskets from honda it still dribbles and leaks. I cant seem to get it right any suggestions? Its just barely a dribble.
Back the bolts up a bit. Tighten in a cross-cross pattern like lug nuts to get them symmetric. If you used a torque wrench increase the torque a little bit. That can solve it. Let me know how that goes
Did you lubricate the gasket at all with some oil? I was gonna pull it all and doable check everything maybe lube the gasket just a bit with clean oil. @belacallots
I did the aftermarket gasket and started leaking again about 6 months after installation. Ended getting the whole part from Honda and done.
Same story as mine. Wish I'd done it right the first time.
I think this is my issue that's killing my alternators too. This will be #3 I have to replace. I disconnected the positive after putting in a new battery, does this mean my alternator is truly dead?
I went thru several alternators and batteries. I have noticed in general I go thru a battery every 8 months in my Odyssey. I just get the very nice battery from AutoZone then they warranty it every 8 months. Free. I think the power doors that we use incessantly and less than 3 mile avg trips just toast those batteries.
Yes the oil leaks into the alternator and kills it which makes it run on battery only which eventually kills the battery.
Sounds like you have had a few goes at this repair. Did it hold up this time?
Might have to do this job on my ‘11 Odyssey.
On this Odyssey I did loosen the bolts and retighten 2 days later for a very very very slow leak. Bone dry now still 5 weeks later. With this not leaking the battery light that would come on intermittently has been off since. I attribute that to no more oil leaking on the alternator.
Mahle makes good stuff and sells just the gasket. I'm pretty sure you can still order it throught Auto Zone or OReillys'. Or another option if you bought an ebay gasket is to just clean up the old OEM screen and swap it into the new rubber gasket. If you just let it leak, it Will ruin your alternator.
If there is a bulletin on this why not take it to dealer?
It’s not a recall so you pay. In my case they wanted $1,600ish. They wanted to do the spool valve replacement but also included the manifold gasket and valve adjustment. Then they figured since they were doing that they might as well loosen up the rocker arms and replace the lower spool valve. Then they also insisted the battery and alternator needed replaced for good measure. All in all they wanted $3,000ish. I did the only thing that actually needed to be done which was the upper spool valve for 200ish. To do just the upper spool valve only like the TSB they wanted 600 I think. So $400 for about 45 minutes of work. They charged me $200 to assess and quote as well
Is this not the VTEC solenoid?
Yes. Same thing.
did you get that part straight from the dealership or did you order online?
I walked into the dealership and got it. I have gotten screwed on fake parts from amazon, eBay, and other places so I don’t risk it with expensive critical items like this.
@@belacallots I got mine from some random Florida car dealership off of amazon and even tho the part itself looked as legit as it gets and so far is working just fine, the box it came in and especially the red Honda sticker got me thinking. Didn't say the usual Made in Japan or Assembled in the USA but simply MX? Made in Mexico? Looks like Honda got their manufacturing plant in Mexico, too. But anyway, now I see yours is exactly the same so if that's a fake I might as well keep it! Thanks.
@@bennykill4 then Probably fine. Out of Convenience and not knowing when I started working on my own cars it took getting burned many times until I stopped buying stuff online. More expensive but in this case I ruined an alternator and messed around with all kinds of gaskets. The timing belt kit is the most dangerous deep fake. It looks so real but isn’t. Readily available on amazon and eBay. I bought it and it looked fine. I needed another seal or something so I bought that from the dealer for a couple bucks and when I got home the bag was much different than the other seal I had messed up installing. On the odyssey forum these fakes are well documented.
Maybe I'm wrong idk I could not see the top one
Why did you have to replace the whole valve? Shouldn’t the gasket take care of the leak ?
I had tried to replace the gasket with the Doorman generic and it leaked after a couple weeks. From research this is a common problem and Honda says to replace the entire upper valve portion. I think it’s because something changed with the upper valve half. If you buy the genuine Honda part which is the whole valve assembly it’s the same amount of work anyhow.
What brand? Any check engine light on?
Honda brand spool valve from the dealership. $220. No check engine light. No leaking 1 month later. Be very particular on the torque. If you notice it leaking back the screws up a tiny bit and retorque to spec.
You can try to do the gasket but you risk it not working and burning up your alternator. I fooled around with the fake gasket and then the Doorman gasket. Neither worked long term and burned up my alternator from all the oil leaking right into the alternator.
Do it right and do it once.
Thanks for the bulletin and the video. Same thing, I’ve heard mixed reviews about those eBay gaskets-they say Honda but are fakes.
@@windycityben4850 Yes. Like the timing belt "kits" sold on Amazon and eBay. Those are fake don't buy them. Honda doesn't sell a kit and you could get yourself in huge trouble putting in a fake water pump and timing belt. As terrible as it is and inconvenient the dealer is the safest option for critical parts.
You're supposed to pull the torque wrench to it breaks at that set pound u didn't???? It breaks free at set pound at least mine does
It was breaking, ticking or torqueing off. Probably not noticeable in the video. Feel thing
The new one has them both u can see
Well, I just change out the gaskets for my 2008 with the exact same "fake" eBay bought gaskets you have in your thumbnail pic. I took it for a test drive and the check engine light DID come on with a P3497 code about 1/4 of a mile into the drive. I cleared the code and drove it for another 2 miles and it did NOT come back on... yet? I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow (10 miles) and see what happens. The good news: No more leak.
So maybe the engine oil just had to fill into the Valve first. Otherwise, the sensor throws the code suspecting an oil pressure issue... Just a theory right now.
How'd it hold up?
@@bjones1042 I just checked it because you asked. It's still dry as a bone and the check engine light never came back on.
@@jhoodied4861 Beautiful
@@jhoodied4861 I did mine yesterday so far so good. I used the mesh screen from the OEM gasket,and no leak or CEL.
@@bjones1042 Way to go! Make sure to check it within the next week, but it seems you've licked her good. 👍
I would have replaced the whole thing
Yeah you can but then you are into the rocker arms and it becomes a day of it and more risk of messing something else up for somebody like me that is not a propro.
Your missing the second compression pin in the bottom of the spool that's why it's leaking there's one in the top ur missing the bottom
At what time in the video did you notice that?
@@belacallots I think as soon as you took the metal plate out???? Why was I wrong?
I have the same van I'm dealing with the same problem and a rattle like heard on urs mine was like that now it's worse thought it was lifters but now pretty sure it's timing belt tensioner
@@sinistersteel1042I’m not sure. The upper I installed is still not leaking. Are you talking about the alignment pins in the new lower that can be seen at 9:20 on the new part? You think I am missing one of those on the existing bottom?
@@belacallots mine is a 2008 exl and it has these 2 hollow pins I guess u can call them that go in opposite corners around the bolts that cause friction between the plate and the two half's keeping them sandwiched tight together in the upper left of your old bottom I didn't see one but in the new one from the box I seen them I'm pretty sure if u don't torque them and just snug it really good it will not leak that's what I did
Your timing belt tensioner is going bad that's what the ticking is it will get worse soon
The microphone makes the engine sound far worse than it really sounds. The Timing Belt Tensioner is new. There is a slight tick or knock to the engine. 200k miles.
Mine's not leaking YET, but I should have bought the part last week for $171 when I bought some other parts. THIS WEEK, it's $182.78!!!! This inflation is unbelievable. Worse than the mid 70s Jimmy Carter days, which I lived through and had to exist as a college student. Anyway, has anyone tried to remove the top half, clean the outer edge and then only the outer edge of the bottom half with acetone-I mean REALLY good, where no oil exists where it needs to be sealed. Then, seal both halves of the outer edges with HondaBond? Obviously the outer part of the gasket is not sealing so only the outer edge of the housing would need to be sealed. The other internal parts of the gasket must not be leaking (much) since no code is being thrown and therefore they can be left alone. I think when I have to buy this part, I will try that first, and if successful, send the part back.
There is a video on TH-cam of a guy doing this. Maybe not as meticulous as you are talking about when cleaning up the mating surfaces. You could try. When I replaced it with the different fake gaskets everything appeared fine. Then later on it started gushing oil into my alternator. It doesn't drip down onto the floor so there is no way of telling unless you keep checking it constantly. Replacing the upper is a sure thing though.
Doorman parts are shit and I wouldn’t use them for any Honda replacement parts. On the K-24 A3 4 cylinder engine I got a replacement VTEC solenoid made in Japan for $130.00 Oem off eBay with no problems but there are some VTEC solenoids that were like $80.00 and are probably made in china in which case I wouldn’t touch.
Just using the top? Lol
Don’t ever use those crappy Dorman garbage, your just asking for it
Idk why people buy the whole thing. All you need are the 2 gaskets if you're replacing them due to leaks.
Pressure switch and vvt solenoid are still working, so why replace them. 😅
Gaskets are $5.00
For me the gaskets leaked and also gave me codes with the check engine light. I spent a lot of time fussing with those when I could have been one and done doing it as Honda recommended. Costs more but time is money and would save a lot of frustration.
Yes DORMAN DONT WORK APRIL 2024 👎👎👎
Out of curiosity, did you replace only the gaskets? Or the entire upper assembly? I bought the whole assembly from Dorman hoping that it might solve my issue. I already tried a set of the fake honda gaskets from eBay and it kept leaking
If you have yours leaking replace asap. I was on a road trip when mine started leaking. By the time I got home and replaced it, oil spilling onto my alternator messed it up and had to replace the alternator.
I didn't know about this issue when my alternator died. We were driving on hwy 10 from Florida to Texas and got stranded July 15 on the side of the hwy. By the time they got us towed to a local pep boys to replace the alternator, we had spent at least 4 hours waiting under a tree on the side of the hwy. My 2nd alternator started to act up again and that when I discovered that this damn spool valve was responsible.