I would go definitely with changing Alternator as there is a burning smell meaning damaged coils inside or something else, but before that I would check as well the Vol from +B Cable from Alternator to the Battery. The problem with new cars without wiring diagram there is less you can know about the charging system how it's wired. Thanks for sharing this with us!
Great video. I have a Skoda Superb that started to have a stop/start error so changed the battery which fixed it for one day, the original Varta battery was coded as a JCB and I coded the new one VAO for Varta and changed a few serial numbers. The stop/start error continues, I have a USB charged plugged in that showed voltage to be 12.6 and I was thinking the alternator was faulty, I reprogrammed the battery again back to JCB and now voltage goes up to 14.7, I'll need to go a good run to give the battery a good charge but I'm hoping that it will fix the stop/start again.
Consider looking at charge current to the battery Igor. 12.66 static voltage (SOC) means little if the the battery capacity is significantly diminished. High total current O/P from the alternator (healthy alternator) to all loads with low current to a battery, points to a battery with a poor SOH.
That’s a great shout Ian , in the past all I had with this type of alternator was not charging and checked lin-bus signal and voltage drop at the + terminal and body I really need to review my processes for this system some great suggestions in the comment 👍🍻
Alternator tests, ripple and current flow. That Uni-T will do both. Drop testing the battery is the best test(not voltage drop), those battery testers can be all over the place
I really do not like an Battery Analyzer type tester. Why it can get false readings. The best way to test a battery is with a old school load test 100 amp or more and see what the volt drop is. And after that measure with a Battery Analyzer. This is what I do and get the best results.
I've had this problem twice now where it has been the alternator. Both times the reason the alternator failed was due to an oil leak due to the rocker cover gasket which is a common fault in these Skoda's. The hot oil was leaking on to the alternator and over time of course the alternator is going to get buggered.
Absolutely totally agree , I went away from my normal diag process maybe because I was working on another vehicle and being a commercial vehicle I rushed things a little bit 👍
Good case Study ...interesting to know if the ECU Is reporting any fault Codes before and After .. Also I did return my Top- Don battery tester . I fit Taximeters so know what taxi-Drivers are like 😁Enjoyed the Video 👍
@@CarsExposed it was inaccurate..I'm sure I tested it on 2 knowing good battieries ,,and I was not happy with results ....Launch UK ( only official UK site)...I am sure they are in Plymouth....Have a Tester ...but it is far more Expensive ...👍
Great video. If it were my Skoda Octavia 1.4 tsi and it had problems like your one . I would just take it to you and let you fix it. Mine gets about 14.4v if you rev it to just over 1000rpm. with no lights on but ac on, Is this a common fault on skodas ? Only had my Skoda for seven weeks and just getting used to it. Kind Regards Graham Tarling ( West London )
Para ajudar a confusao eu nas VW transporter ja ouvi dizer que o alternador no interior cria um curto e faz como que se algo do carro esteja activo o carro nao "adormeca" a bateria ao fim de algum tempo estava descarregada e uma das coisas que tambem falavam era da temperatura do alternador que aquecia muito espero que ajude...penso que com o osciloscopio consigas apanhar isso em vez de teres a configuracao como dc pode se por em ac e dara para ver o efeito de ripple se esta tudo ok
How's she goin'? Another nice fix Igor!! You would think, width all the AI in the vehicle, it could detect if the alternator was intermittent or failing. Like you noticed when it was getting hot, there was certainly something going on with it that was not right. A chance you took to replace the alternator, but I think, with all the evidence you had, this was a good call. Thanks for sharing and take care!!
Can you please let me know if this is 1.6 tdi 115hp/85kw.?? I’m struggling to find the right alternator there are so many options on different websites. Some are 12V some are 14V. And some have 110, 140, 180 charge current.
I had this problem with a superb they are fitted with a smart charge system my one had a faulty regulator probably due to being jump started before I bought it if you start the car without touching the throttle pedal it would only show a charge of 12v or so the revs would increase to try and charge the battery but would remain at 12v tap the throttle to just over 1k revs it would then charge at 14.4v regardless of engine speed and will stay like this until the engine is switched off it’s been like this for two years 😂 now so I just tap the throttle whenever I start the car
Hello can you reply me please my same car skoda octavia 2018 1.6 tdi.....10 miles I drive after I am waiting traffic lights I forgot I take off stop star button.....my car going traffic light off after I press clutch not on and more than 10 times I try to turn on after battery died and I put jump start and next 2 or 3 days no problem after starting same but start like hard start.......can you give me advice please I check battery is ok 94 percent health and other no 13.9......
Had similar issue on my 2013 Octavia (4 years old)... Original Varta Battery replaced... New varta died 2 days later (got the alternator voltage regulator replaced I think it was it... at independent auto-electrical workshop... So far still doing its job)Just can't understand why a non-charging system (
Not Smart at all if it is not doing its job... it should at least give some kind of warning message or light on cluster... I now use a cigarrette lighter usb charger with voltmeter to make sure the alternator keeps charging the battery
@@CarsExposed i do them all the time the electic pump fails on them thay loose bearing grease through front of pump gathering at bottom hence thay seize and can be mistaken for oil from crank seal usually see it on cover runs downto bottom 1 to watch
You do realise the smart alternators don’t charge the battery all the time? It has energy recouperation. My own Passat voltage for most part when driving is about 12.8v and shoots up to 14.5v when slowing down. They only keep the battery at 80% charge. Maybe the taxi driver sits at the taxi rank with radio and lights on while waiting for customer? I find it strange that the voltage was 11.9v with the lights on and it won’t start. My car can drop to 11.8v with lights on when the start/stop kicks in in traffic and starts no problem.
Thank you for your video my friend! I’ve been having the same problem on my 2019 skoda for the past 2 years… it’s definitely the alternator
I would go definitely with changing Alternator as there is a burning smell meaning damaged coils inside or something else, but before that I would check as well the Vol from +B Cable from Alternator to the Battery. The problem with new cars without wiring diagram there is less you can know about the charging system how it's wired. Thanks for sharing this with us!
Great video. I have a Skoda Superb that started to have a stop/start error so changed the battery which fixed it for one day, the original Varta battery was coded as a JCB and I coded the new one VAO for Varta and changed a few serial numbers. The stop/start error continues, I have a USB charged plugged in that showed voltage to be 12.6 and I was thinking the alternator was faulty, I reprogrammed the battery again back to JCB and now voltage goes up to 14.7, I'll need to go a good run to give the battery a good charge but I'm hoping that it will fix the stop/start again.
Good to know mate 👍
Consider looking at charge current to the battery Igor. 12.66 static voltage (SOC) means little if the the battery capacity is significantly diminished. High total current O/P from the alternator (healthy alternator) to all loads with low current to a battery, points to a battery with a poor SOH.
That’s a great shout Ian , in the past all I had with this type of alternator was not charging and checked lin-bus signal and voltage drop at the + terminal and body I really need to review my processes for this system some great suggestions in the comment 👍🍻
Alternator tests, ripple and current flow. That Uni-T will do both. Drop testing the battery is the best test(not voltage drop), those battery testers can be all over the place
Thats a great shout Dave I totally forgot about ripple and current flow test ...😩👍
I really do not like an Battery Analyzer type tester. Why it can get false readings. The best way to test a battery is with a old school load test 100 amp or more and see what the volt drop is. And after that measure with a Battery Analyzer. This is what I do and get the best results.
Hello another amazing job
Thank you 4 sharing you skills
cheers pal 👍
I've had this problem twice now where it has been the alternator. Both times the reason the alternator failed was due to an oil leak due to the rocker cover gasket which is a common fault in these Skoda's. The hot oil was leaking on to the alternator and over time of course the alternator is going to get buggered.
Same with mine but I just need a crankshaft position censor
Good job Igor. Thanks for video 👍👍👍
Cheers pal 👍
would be intresting to know if scan health report will pick any codes in some modules,such as central electrics or battery control module🤔
Absolutely totally agree , I went away from my normal diag process maybe because I was working on another vehicle and being a commercial vehicle I rushed things a little bit 👍
Good case Study ...interesting to know if the ECU
Is reporting any fault Codes before and After ..
Also I did return my Top- Don battery tester . I fit Taximeters so know what taxi-Drivers are like 😁Enjoyed the Video 👍
Cheers pal , yeah you know what’s like working on taxis I need to review few things , why did you send your topdon back ? 👍
@@CarsExposed it was inaccurate..I'm sure I tested it on 2 knowing good battieries ,,and I was not happy with results ....Launch UK ( only official UK site)...I am sure they are in Plymouth....Have a Tester ...but it is far more Expensive ...👍
Good to know I will be keeping my eyes peeled when using mine cheers 👍
Please let me know replacing alternator fixed the problem? My car has same issue. Thanks
Great video. If it were my Skoda Octavia 1.4 tsi and it had problems like your one . I would just take it to you and let you fix it. Mine gets about 14.4v if you rev it to just over 1000rpm. with no lights on but ac on, Is this a common fault on skodas ? Only had my Skoda for seven weeks and just getting used to it.
Kind Regards Graham Tarling ( West London )
Para ajudar a confusao eu nas VW transporter ja ouvi dizer que o alternador no interior cria um curto e faz como que se algo do carro esteja activo o carro nao "adormeca" a bateria ao fim de algum tempo estava descarregada e uma das coisas que tambem falavam era da temperatura do alternador que aquecia muito espero que ajude...penso que com o osciloscopio consigas apanhar isso em vez de teres a configuracao como dc pode se por em ac e dara para ver o efeito de ripple se esta tudo ok
Muito obrigado meu brother na próxima vez vou fazer mais testes , foi meu corrido esse 👍
How's she goin'? Another nice fix Igor!! You would think, width all the AI in the vehicle, it could detect if the alternator was intermittent or failing. Like you noticed when it was getting hot, there was certainly something going on with it that was not right. A chance you took to replace the alternator, but I think, with all the evidence you had, this was a good call. Thanks for sharing and take care!!
Yeah Mike definitely , when the generator fails completely I only see a charging system fault like it showed on the dash , pretty tricky this one 👍
Can you please let me know if this is 1.6 tdi 115hp/85kw.?? I’m struggling to find the right alternator there are so many options on different websites. Some are 12V some are 14V. And some have 110, 140, 180 charge current.
I had this problem with a superb they are fitted with a smart charge system my one had a faulty regulator probably due to being jump started before I bought it if you start the car without touching the throttle pedal it would only show a charge of 12v or so the revs would increase to try and charge the battery but would remain at 12v tap the throttle to just over 1k revs it would then charge at 14.4v regardless of engine speed and will stay like this until the engine is switched off it’s been like this for two years 😂 now so I just tap the throttle whenever I start the car
Hello can you reply me please my same car skoda octavia 2018 1.6 tdi.....10 miles I drive after I am waiting traffic lights I forgot I take off stop star button.....my car going traffic light off after I press clutch not on and more than 10 times I try to turn on after battery died and I put jump start and next 2 or 3 days no problem after starting same but start like hard start.......can you give me advice please I check battery is ok 94 percent health and other no 13.9......
Top job 👊👊
cheers mate 👍
Had similar issue on my 2013 Octavia (4 years old)... Original Varta Battery replaced... New varta died 2 days later (got the alternator voltage regulator replaced I think it was it... at independent auto-electrical workshop... So far still doing its job)Just can't understand why a non-charging system (
It’s a smart charging system , the alternator only puts out what it’s necessary 👍
Not Smart at all if it is not doing its job... it should at least give some kind of warning message or light on cluster... I now use a cigarrette lighter usb charger with voltmeter to make sure the alternator keeps charging the battery
Yep, 2nd diode
Is that the w. Pump rattling on it there prone to seizure
Im not sure pal i never changed one 👍
@@CarsExposed i do them all the time the electic pump fails on them thay loose bearing grease through front of pump gathering at bottom hence thay seize and can be mistaken for oil from crank seal usually see it on cover runs downto bottom 1 to watch
@@sonofeire1916 How many miles do you reckon the pump start to play up?👍
@@CarsExposed usually 50k there interval i believe is 5yr or 60k
@@sonofeire1916 what pump do you refer? Oil/vacum? You said something about an electric one and I don't get it
You do realise the smart alternators don’t charge the battery all the time? It has energy recouperation. My own Passat voltage for most part when driving is about 12.8v and shoots up to 14.5v when slowing down. They only keep the battery at 80% charge. Maybe the taxi driver sits at the taxi rank with radio and lights on while waiting for customer? I find it strange that the voltage was 11.9v with the lights on and it won’t start. My car can drop to 11.8v with lights on when the start/stop kicks in in traffic and starts no problem.
Good job
Cheers 👍
Where is your garage
Hi where you base
If the alternator hsd 150k miles on it . I would change it anyway
With taxis or commercial vehicles we tend to do that it’s understandable 👍
It's thr stupid smart charging alternator
I wouldn't trust Lucas/Chinese alternator
Are they that bad ? 👍
@@CarsExposed I’ve had lots of problems in past but don’t use that brand or ECP anymore