Crazy helpful. Especially like the details like the best practice tips, lubricant and fluid properties, and torque requirements. Wish I had a local mechanic like you. I wouldn't have to attempt this by myself.
Factory torque spec on the lug nuts are 75 ft lbs, and I'm glad you are the only other guy besides myself smart enough to not put the car all the way down before fully tightening the lugs (people don't under stand you can cock the wheel by putting it down all the way before tightening them), but...I will say another trick is, you can also cock the rotor when you put the pads back on or do a caliper like you did, What I do is with everything assembled brake wise (before you put the wheel back on), go in the car turn it on and SLOWLY pump the brake one to 3 times, so the caliper grabs the rotor and keeps them close so when you put the wheel on and lower it fully down there is no slack between the pads and the rotor for things to unevenly mate by the rotor moving or shifting with the weight of the wheel on the rim.. peace
Thank you! Yes you can do that. Usually if you snug the lug nuts, the wheel will suddenly the rotor flush on the highway so there's no need to pump the brakes beforehand. But it can't hurt to do it anyway
Thanks - clear and informative. Looking at the condition of the flexible brake hose I would have also changed it along with the new discs, pads, and caliper.
Hope it goes smoothly! Make sure you get the right torque specs and parts. In this video I'm working on a GS300 not an ES300. Big difference in components and I'm sure the torque spec is different too.
I had aftermarket ones from 1AAuto. Didn't like the beam pattern on them so I went back to factory. I restored my factory assemblies and they're slightly hazier than the ones in this video but still good
@@AutoFixYT I replaced mine with some decent-looking amazon specials. The high beams are already broken after 5 months. I want to use my factory headlights, but they're so hazy, and I already tried replacing them. Is it possible to get aftermarket headlight covers?
@@SendingThruHardware Yeah the hazyness is super common on these. I just used sandpaper and then buffed them, they were so hazy i couldn't see anything through the lens. Now they just look like someone waxed them buy didn't buff the wax off well. They don't make just the lenses. So you have to either get another aftermarket set or restore your factory ones. I have a video on how I restore hazy headlights. Check other aftermarket brands, there are some good ones out there
@@mozymi4399 Oh I'm sorry my bad, i was responding to multiple comments and I wasn't paying attention to this one. Sorry. I replaced the caliper for two reasons: 1. The slider was completely seized and fused to the bracket (i used torches and soaked it in penetrant and still didn't want to move) 2. The caliper on this side was overall in poor condition. The car must have been parked half on dirt or something but everything on this side was either rusted or seized. So I decided to get a new caliper before I break the bleeder on the old one.
You can use high temp anti seize on the caliper hardware if that's all you have but I wouldn't use it on the sliders unless you will clean it out after you buy new grease and replace it. Something is better than nothing. But the best thing to use is silicone paste or caliper grease on everything brake related.
Crazy helpful. Especially like the details like the best practice tips, lubricant and fluid properties, and torque requirements. Wish I had a local mechanic like you. I wouldn't have to attempt this by myself.
This is a good, solid no nonsense video. thank you for taking time to make it and for posting. Well done.
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful!
Factory torque spec on the lug nuts are 75 ft lbs, and I'm glad you are the only other guy besides myself smart enough to not put the car all the way down before fully tightening the lugs (people don't under stand you can cock the wheel by putting it down all the way before tightening them), but...I will say another trick is, you can also cock the rotor when you put the pads back on or do a caliper like you did, What I do is with everything assembled brake wise (before you put the wheel back on), go in the car turn it on and SLOWLY pump the brake one to 3 times, so the caliper grabs the rotor and keeps them close so when you put the wheel on and lower it fully down there is no slack between the pads and the rotor for things to unevenly mate by the rotor moving or shifting with the weight of the wheel on the rim.. peace
Thank you!
Yes you can do that. Usually if you snug the lug nuts, the wheel will suddenly the rotor flush on the highway so there's no need to pump the brakes beforehand. But it can't hurt to do it anyway
Thanks - clear and informative. Looking at the condition of the flexible brake hose I would have also changed it along with the new discs, pads, and caliper.
Thank you! The brake hose was actually still good for me but it always good to replace old parts even if they're not worn yet.
Thanks about to attempt my sons 99 es300..
Hope it goes smoothly! Make sure you get the right torque specs and parts. In this video I'm working on a GS300 not an ES300. Big difference in components and I'm sure the torque spec is different too.
Perfect video!👌
Thank you!
Did you buy after market headlights? If so what brand?
I had aftermarket ones from 1AAuto. Didn't like the beam pattern on them so I went back to factory. I restored my factory assemblies and they're slightly hazier than the ones in this video but still good
@@AutoFixYT I replaced mine with some decent-looking amazon specials. The high beams are already broken after 5 months. I want to use my factory headlights, but they're so hazy, and I already tried replacing them. Is it possible to get aftermarket headlight covers?
@@SendingThruHardware Yeah the hazyness is super common on these. I just used sandpaper and then buffed them, they were so hazy i couldn't see anything through the lens. Now they just look like someone waxed them buy didn't buff the wax off well.
They don't make just the lenses. So you have to either get another aftermarket set or restore your factory ones. I have a video on how I restore hazy headlights.
Check other aftermarket brands, there are some good ones out there
If the slider pins are stuck why not just get new boots and lubricate?
Because if I can get them unstuck and the boots are fine then I'll reuse the boots and lubricate
@@AutoFixYT it sounded like you were replacing the caliper just for stuck pins? I might be wrong
@@mozymi4399 Oh I'm sorry my bad, i was responding to multiple comments and I wasn't paying attention to this one. Sorry.
I replaced the caliper for two reasons:
1. The slider was completely seized and fused to the bracket (i used torches and soaked it in penetrant and still didn't want to move)
2. The caliper on this side was overall in poor condition. The car must have been parked half on dirt or something but everything on this side was either rusted or seized. So I decided to get a new caliper before I break the bleeder on the old one.
Could you use the antiseize rather then silicon paste ??
You can use high temp anti seize on the caliper hardware if that's all you have but I wouldn't use it on the sliders unless you will clean it out after you buy new grease and replace it. Something is better than nothing. But the best thing to use is silicone paste or caliper grease on everything brake related.
@@AutoFixYT thank you got it now
a nice loving bonk. lol
Haha