We used your front brake video today and it was a really good reference guide. I’m going to utilize this one when we do the rears. Thank you for taking the time to make these. It’s been fun watching your GS get better and better with each one too. Take care and thanks again.
Haha yes pads are surprisingly small lol Thank you! I really want a GS400 haha, I love my GS300 but I'd love to have the V8. They're all great cars, awesome to drive, comfortable, easy to modify, and they look awesome too!
@@AutoFixYT I learned new appreciation for the GS just recently. Seems like a solid car that can be made really nice and clean with a slight sus drop and a lip. I been vicariously replacing the ball joints through your ball joint video. Another channel Forward Momentum also has great 2g GS content worth looking at.
@@HussarPlays Yup I watch most of his vidoes, and have learned quite a few intersting things from his vidoes! And yes I agree that with just some simple mods you get a clean car, and honesty is didn't think I'd like it this much when I initially bought it. Now I'd daily it no problem. Love it. Love the way it feels when you drive. And it's not even modified haha other than wheels and tires. Would love to lower it a little one day and stiffen up the rest of the suspension components... but in my case it's family first, then cars. So that's gonna have to wait. For now this is the family car haha
great vid.. but whats that on your ebrake pin? cotter pin twisted or something? very detailed explanation of every thing. better than just step by step if you ask me. thanks for sharing
Great tutorial. Everything is crystal clear. One question... is it mandatory/required to bleed the brake or is it okay to push the piston back in without bleeding? I always get mixed answers when it comes to bleeding during the brake job.
Thank you! So... I want to break this down into two main points: 1. Pushing back the caliper piston. When you push the piston back, some people say you must open the bleeder. Other say you don't have to. On certain cars, you do. On most, you don't. So basically it comes down to preference. I prefer to do it if I can, but I don't always. Now, if you do open the bleeder, you can push that piston back as fast as you want, and after you're done, make sure to wait until you see no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder. If there are air bubbles coming our, you have air in the system and it needs to be bled further. This also avoids the potential of damaging the abs module by pushing fluid backwards through it. However... If you don't want to open the bleeder or you can't because it's seized, you can totally push the piston back with it closed, just make sure you go extra slow. That's all. Not opening it will avoid the possibility of getting air in the caliper, but the downside is it will not drain out any of the old fluid. The advantage of opening it is you get to add some fresh fluid to the master cylinder after you're done and therefore are keeping the existing fluid fresher. 2. Bleeding brakes. Regardless of whether you open the bleeder or not during your brake job, it is not necessary to bleed the brakes after your brake job is done. It is only necessary to bleed the brakes if you replace the caliper, hose, line, or anything else that holds brake fluid. Or if you want to flush the old fluid out and replace it with new fluid. I hope this answered your question.
Then three things might be happening: 1. You have rust build-up in the caliper where they slide in, so the a screw driver or a chisel and a hammer, and chisel away until you see a nice flat surface. If it's really bad, consider replacing the calipers. 2. You got cheap aftermarket pads that weren't made properly, so return them and get better ones. 3. You have the wrong pads all together.
Yes Motegi MR7 16×7. I didn't buy those on purpose, I was actually looking for winter tires and someone was selling these wheels and tires with almost new winter tires for $200. And I have those exact wheels in the same size on my Corolla too, so I had to buy them lol
Haha that's unfortunately considered not too bad for the climate where I live. Not sure where you are from but hopefully somewhere where rust isn't an issue. I am in the rust belt where 5 year old cars start developing rust. It's sad but what can you do...
@@AutoFixYT Lol. I'm from VA, so I know about salted and sanded roads very well. I also know you wash it away, and to coat my undercarriage. My 04 gs300 lived 14 yrs in Massachusetts, and the last 4 yrs in VA. Just good maintenance.
@@MRMAN-wb1tv Well as much as I wash it, unfortunately the previous owner clearly didn't. I only bought this car three years ago. Could still be worse though haha
@@AutoFixYT Understood. And you're right I've seen worst!...Top of da morning. Since you here. Do you have any tips on removing the rear upper control arms? Seems as though no one has done a complete video on that.
Thanks for the Helpful Guide bro now I have more confidence changing my rear brake pads for my 2004 Lexus IS300 2JZGE RWD. As for which Brake Pads to buy it's either Brembo or Project Mu Type Ns Japanese Made Pads 😁💯👍
We used your front brake video today and it was a really good reference guide. I’m going to utilize this one when we do the rears. Thank you for taking the time to make these. It’s been fun watching your GS get better and better with each one too. Take care and thanks again.
Thank you! I'm glad the videos helped out!
The tiny pads are so adorable. I been watching your vids, as I’m hoping to get a GS400/430 myself. Its great content. 🤙
Haha yes pads are surprisingly small lol
Thank you! I really want a GS400 haha, I love my GS300 but I'd love to have the V8. They're all great cars, awesome to drive, comfortable, easy to modify, and they look awesome too!
@@AutoFixYT I learned new appreciation for the GS just recently. Seems like a solid car that can be made really nice and clean with a slight sus drop and a lip. I been vicariously replacing the ball joints through your ball joint video. Another channel Forward Momentum also has great 2g GS content worth looking at.
@@HussarPlays Yup I watch most of his vidoes, and have learned quite a few intersting things from his vidoes!
And yes I agree that with just some simple mods you get a clean car, and honesty is didn't think I'd like it this much when I initially bought it. Now I'd daily it no problem. Love it. Love the way it feels when you drive. And it's not even modified haha other than wheels and tires. Would love to lower it a little one day and stiffen up the rest of the suspension components... but in my case it's family first, then cars. So that's gonna have to wait. For now this is the family car haha
Get the Gs430 if you can! V8 power baby!!!!
Id love to own a GS400 or 430
Nice job Dude! I like the intro. 👍
Thanks!
Hi.Thank you mate.That job also waiting for me.Fingers crossed Im able to do it.Take care.👍
great vid.. but whats that on your ebrake pin? cotter pin twisted or something? very detailed explanation of every thing. better than just step by step if you ask me. thanks for sharing
Thank you! And I'm confused... what time do you see a twisted cotter pin at?
If you change 1 brake hose do you have to bleed on all 4 corners or can you do just 1?
Just the one you worked on.
Great tutorial. Everything is crystal clear. One question... is it mandatory/required to bleed the brake or is it okay to push the piston back in without bleeding? I always get mixed answers when it comes to bleeding during the brake job.
Thank you!
So... I want to break this down into two main points:
1. Pushing back the caliper piston. When you push the piston back, some people say you must open the bleeder. Other say you don't have to. On certain cars, you do. On most, you don't. So basically it comes down to preference. I prefer to do it if I can, but I don't always. Now, if you do open the bleeder, you can push that piston back as fast as you want, and after you're done, make sure to wait until you see no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder. If there are air bubbles coming our, you have air in the system and it needs to be bled further. This also avoids the potential of damaging the abs module by pushing fluid backwards through it. However... If you don't want to open the bleeder or you can't because it's seized, you can totally push the piston back with it closed, just make sure you go extra slow. That's all. Not opening it will avoid the possibility of getting air in the caliper, but the downside is it will not drain out any of the old fluid. The advantage of opening it is you get to add some fresh fluid to the master cylinder after you're done and therefore are keeping the existing fluid fresher.
2. Bleeding brakes. Regardless of whether you open the bleeder or not during your brake job, it is not necessary to bleed the brakes after your brake job is done. It is only necessary to bleed the brakes if you replace the caliper, hose, line, or anything else that holds brake fluid. Or if you want to flush the old fluid out and replace it with new fluid.
I hope this answered your question.
@@AutoFixYT Wonderful. Thank you for the explanation.
@@AutoFixYT Thanks for the Helpful insights bro this basically sums up all the confusion & doubts that people been thinking cheers 💯👍
Happy new year
Thank you! Happy new year to you too!
Great vid!
Thank you!
What if brake pads don’t fit?
Then three things might be happening:
1. You have rust build-up in the caliper where they slide in, so the a screw driver or a chisel and a hammer, and chisel away until you see a nice flat surface. If it's really bad, consider replacing the calipers.
2. You got cheap aftermarket pads that weren't made properly, so return them and get better ones.
3. You have the wrong pads all together.
Do you need to bleed the brakes???
Not unless you think you have air in the line or you wanna replace the fluid. I don't usually do a brake bleed after changing brakes. Only if needed.
Motegi Racing wheels? I have those on my Corolla 😲
Yes Motegi MR7 16×7. I didn't buy those on purpose, I was actually looking for winter tires and someone was selling these wheels and tires with almost new winter tires for $200. And I have those exact wheels in the same size on my Corolla too, so I had to buy them lol
@@AutoFixYT Funny we have too much car stuff in common
Haha sounds like it
just got a sub
Thank you!
👍🙏😎🙏👍
👍👍🇵🇷👍👍
*That undercarriage of that car is horrendous!!!*
Haha that's unfortunately considered not too bad for the climate where I live. Not sure where you are from but hopefully somewhere where rust isn't an issue. I am in the rust belt where 5 year old cars start developing rust. It's sad but what can you do...
@@AutoFixYT Lol. I'm from VA, so I know about salted and sanded roads very well. I also know you wash it away, and to coat my undercarriage. My 04 gs300 lived 14 yrs in Massachusetts, and the last 4 yrs in VA. Just good maintenance.
@@MRMAN-wb1tv Well as much as I wash it, unfortunately the previous owner clearly didn't. I only bought this car three years ago. Could still be worse though haha
@@AutoFixYT Understood. And you're right I've seen worst!...Top of da morning. Since you here. Do you have any tips on removing the rear upper control arms? Seems as though no one has done a complete video on that.
@@MRMAN-wb1tv I don't actually and I've never had to... Hopefully you don't have to drop the subframe to get it out...
Thanks for the Helpful Guide bro now I have more confidence changing my rear brake pads for my 2004 Lexus IS300 2JZGE RWD.
As for which Brake Pads to buy it's either Brembo or Project Mu Type Ns Japanese Made Pads 😁💯👍
Great to hear!