Replacing the Banjo Bolt with new washers is a great idea. I did my brakes and calipers without replacing the Banjo Bolt and washers and shortly after every one of them leaked. I'm not saying that will happen with yours but that is what happened to mine. GREAT VIDEO!
Well, for sure the washers are supposed to be replaced. In the Toyota FSMs, they are always considered a non-reusable part. But, the banjo bolts are reusable. There's not a lot that can go wrong with them other than getting plugged with gunk. So, I view the banjo bolt replacement unnecessary. But, to each his own. The bolts aren't expensive, so replacing them isn't a huge expense. Glad you like the video Rich.
Just from my lessons learned from my old Tacoma- if you want to avoid rebuilding the calipers while the truck is still less than 80k-100k miles, make sure to just purchase the correct piston compression tool for the front calipers. Don't do the screwdriver prying against the pad method that a lot of TH-camrs still show. As shown in his video, the piston walls DO accumulate containment and buildup over time (partially because of the outer fluid channel in the caliper), and the screw driver method causes that stuff to foul up the piston/seal interface, it may slow down just one piston. This eventually causes uneven, unlevel pad wear by a very small amount, and then will cause a runout on the rotor- and as a result causes whole truck shakes during light braking despite having very smooth hard-brake performance. The piston spreader assures that the pistons are returned all the way in while staying perfectly square with the caliper. Multi piston calipers are great, but they are slightly higher maintenance and they all need to be moving evenly with one another to always allow for perfectly level pad wear. Needless to say, I rebuilt those calipers, and then replaced all the hardware again because of the runouts, and they performed even better than new without any problems.
Tim/Sean, another great video! I spent a lot of time in the Bay Area before leaving California. I love it how you travel to people’s homes to film. He definitely tested those brakes when he left his driveway. It would have been mildly funny if he went across the street into the dry grass. I am glad the rebuild was a success. Take care.
Thanks! Traveling to other people's homes to film is pretty cool. The only downside is I have to in advance figure out what tools I need to bring along with me. Quite often, at some point in the job, I wish I had access to a tool I didn't bring. For this video, Bill had a decent array of tools, so the job went very well. Bill does drive onto the neighboring property with his rig. We actually drove up to the top of the little hill across from his place.
Thank you Tim! This is another great point of reference. I will be rebuilding 2 sets of Tundra calipers; the 199mm, & the 231mm from a Sequoia. I just got them all cleaned up and ready to paint! Both factory kits are the very best; however, you still need to keep the inner seals to reuse them, because the factory kit do not come with these. Take care Brother!
You're welcome. I'm guessing the inner seals you're referring to are the ones that seal the caliper halves together? The piston seals should be replaced and are included in the rebuild kits. I had heard from another person that if you don't have to crack the calipers apart, don't. Toyota doesn't sell the o-ring seals.
If you are reusing pistons with any corrosion, you want to put the piston in with the discoloration up. Opposite the staining in the caliper. The rust/stain/deposit always forms on the botom(as installed), because water that creeps in through the seal from the atmosphere collects on the bottom. Also, "brake caplier assembly fluid" is the best shit ever made. It's not hydroscopic. If this is a car you don't often drive, its mandatory.
Another great video. I found your advice on getting the pistons out very encouraging because I don't have a compressor. So I assumed I wouldn't be able to do this job. But seeing your video changes all that. BTW I've done 2 valve cover gasket jobs on 5vz-fe rigs in the last month and both went perfect thanks to your channel.
Thanks! I'm glad you liked the video. Yeah, the air compressor trick to get the pistons out is more of a pain in the ass than it's worth, in my opinion. I suppose if you had the perfect progression of blocks and shims to get the pistons protruding out of the caliper fully, it wouldn't be bad, but we found we'd end up getting one piston that would shoot out too far and then we'd have to push the piston back in and reset. When I finally went to the screwdriver, I realized it was way more straightforward and easy to get the pistons out of the caliper. It's great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for the comment, and Happy Wrenching!
A great product for the caliper and pad sliding points is Super Lube brake grease (97008 part number). It's silicone grease based with PTFE. Seems to have better overall reviews than various Permatex products.
Very detail video on caliper rebuilt. I used this as a guide on 04 4runner, but 2 out of 4 pistons on both front calipers seized up and had to buy rebuilt calipers from Napa. One question though, why the rebuilt kit comes metal rings for pistons boots? The original calipers on my 4runner only have rubber boots on the pistons and they were easy to remove.
I bought some repackaged pads from Amazon and they had the squealers on both pads. They were new but I paid less than nine dollars for the set. My buddy said I got a deal because he said you can’t put brakes on a bicycle for less than nine dollars. 😀
It's likely that the small amount of corrosion or contamination to the pistons and inner cylinder, didn't get past the seals, but came from moisture in the brake fluid. Most brake master cylinders are vented to the outside *and* brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), which is why the brake bleeding maintenance intervals are pretty important to follow closely.
Hey, that's a very good point. The brake fluid can develop moisture in it over time and that's why it's important to renew the fluid at regular intervals. Thanks for sharing this.
I know I learned the hard way on my Tundra put the wear indicator on the OUTSIDE not the inside pad. My outside wore before the inside and ate into the rotor before it squealed on me. Toyota should put indicators on all pads IMO.
I really think it's luck of the draw which side you put the pad with the wear indicator on so you catch it before you go metal on metal and destroy your rotors. I absolutely agree with you that Toyota and other manufacturers should put the wear indicators on all 4 pads.
I bought a set of pads from Amazon for my Tacoma. They were in the used and repackaged. I paid under nine dollars for them. They were brand new and they had the squealers on all of the pads. My friend said I got a deal because you can’t put brakes on a bicycle for less than nine dollars. I don’t drive it that much and they have been great so far. I’m getting my money worth. 😀
@@stevanrose7439 Yeah, that sounds like a great deal. Most of the aftermarket suppliers of brake pads adhere an anti-squeal shim onto the back of the pad. Toyota does it differently. The pads come separate from the shim kit and the shim kit is made up of two shims, one slotted and one solid. But, the Toyota shims are reusable. Most people who replace their OEM pads with aftermarket pads, throw away the OEM shim kit, which is a mistake, if you ever want to go back to OEM pads.
Great timing. My dust covers are looking a little ratty so I need to do this before the pistons start sticking. I got the OEM kit but no grease. I assume I can just use a little brake fluid. Or should I use the same hi temp grease that I will coat the pins with?
On my highlander I took off the caliper with the pads but left it attached to the brake line. I put a block of wood slightly less than the thickness of the rotor and stepped on the brakes. The pistons moved out. Then put thinner wood, repeated till the pistons were almost out. What do you think?
@SeshMurthy I think that can work, but if the calipers don't move equally, which is common, one side could pop completely out and then you have a huge mess of brake fluid and a more difficult time of bleeding the brakes afterwards.
I'm guessing you're talking about polishing the inside of the caliper on either side of the pads? There really shouldn't be any interference there, but I guess if there's a build-up of corrosion in that area, knocking it down with a wire brush would be advisable. The crucial things to make sure are smooth are the retaining pins the pads ride on.
Depends if you go aftermarket of OEM. OEM is more expensive. Either way, it's a huge savings doing the rebuild. HUGE! And, doing the rebuild isn't hard since we did a lot of the homework for people. Messing with the air pressure to get the calipers pistons out was sort of a waste of time, but we saw others do it and wanted to give it a try.
Front reman calipers are around $80 each and are very prone to leaking and failure. Toyota rebuild kit was about $50 total, and it stays Toyota and not some sweatshop rebuild. 😅
@@calokie5567 there is usually a core charge on those as well from the Yota dealer? I would not think a reman'd from OEM dealer would be prone to leaking but they do?
@@TimmyTheToolman i was just curious because my Taco rig has 329k miles and has seen plenty share of winter road salt! after a 1/4 century... maybe buy new pistons as well if they sell those? checking and they do sell new pistons at about 20$ each after the online discounters
Hey Tim my 97 taco the caliper piston boot is a little bit ripped, toyota wants $35 for each for the kit, should i rebuild or just buy new calipers if so what kind, thanks.
@yotagang3705 I don't know if you can buy just a boot. I was thinking, buy one rebuild kit and use one of the boots out of it. Save the other parts until you do want to rebuild the rest of the caliper.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes leak.... The rubber rings look fine but the caliber was leaking badly and the piston is polished as smooth as glass The only rust was inside the grooves
thanks for the videos. i got a 4runner that is stuck in 4 lo. j shift . 2000 sr5 w e locker. i cant get the transcase in to 4 hi or 2 hi. stays in 4 lo even if i put in N and shift out of 4 lo to 4 hi then to 2 wd it shifts out on 4 lo kinda . but not in to 4 hi. but grinds . like a half neutral. electrics say is shifts 4 wd off and on. but stays stuck in 4 lo or when i can force it out of 4 lo , it just grinds or rubs. i dont kno but its stuck in 4 lo. what can i do . i was going to swap this used one in i got today. but thought id ask a professional
I've never troubleshooted the transfer cases on 3rd Gen 4runners. I've never had an issue with either of my rigs and nobody local to me has asked for help either. I would suggest posting your question on a Toyota forum like T4R.org or a Toyota Facebook group like 3rd Gen Mafia and maybe somebody has some answers for you.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Replacing the Banjo Bolt with new washers is a great idea.
I did my brakes and calipers without replacing the Banjo Bolt and washers and shortly after every one of them leaked.
I'm not saying that will happen with yours but that is what happened to mine.
GREAT VIDEO!
Well, for sure the washers are supposed to be replaced. In the Toyota FSMs, they are always considered a non-reusable part. But, the banjo bolts are reusable. There's not a lot that can go wrong with them other than getting plugged with gunk. So, I view the banjo bolt replacement unnecessary. But, to each his own. The bolts aren't expensive, so replacing them isn't a huge expense.
Glad you like the video Rich.
You're welcome! I agree with you about the banjo bolts being reusable.@@TimmyTheToolman
Just from my lessons learned from my old Tacoma- if you want to avoid rebuilding the calipers while the truck is still less than 80k-100k miles, make sure to just purchase the correct piston compression tool for the front calipers. Don't do the screwdriver prying against the pad method that a lot of TH-camrs still show. As shown in his video, the piston walls DO accumulate containment and buildup over time (partially because of the outer fluid channel in the caliper), and the screw driver method causes that stuff to foul up the piston/seal interface, it may slow down just one piston. This eventually causes uneven, unlevel pad wear by a very small amount, and then will cause a runout on the rotor- and as a result causes whole truck shakes during light braking despite having very smooth hard-brake performance. The piston spreader assures that the pistons are returned all the way in while staying perfectly square with the caliper. Multi piston calipers are great, but they are slightly higher maintenance and they all need to be moving evenly with one another to always allow for perfectly level pad wear. Needless to say, I rebuilt those calipers, and then replaced all the hardware again because of the runouts, and they performed even better than new without any problems.
Thanks for sharing all that.
I use very fine valve lapping compound with a cloth to clean up the pistons, works a treat.
perfect timing, need to replace me pads and rotors w00t!
Good luck with the brake job!
Tim/Sean, another great video! I spent a lot of time in the Bay Area before leaving California. I love it how you travel to people’s homes to film. He definitely tested those brakes when he left his driveway. It would have been mildly funny if he went across the street into the dry grass. I am glad the rebuild was a success. Take care.
Thanks! Traveling to other people's homes to film is pretty cool. The only downside is I have to in advance figure out what tools I need to bring along with me. Quite often, at some point in the job, I wish I had access to a tool I didn't bring. For this video, Bill had a decent array of tools, so the job went very well.
Bill does drive onto the neighboring property with his rig. We actually drove up to the top of the little hill across from his place.
I was able to get my caliper pistons out with a bike floor pump - woodworking clamps were super helpful. Thanks for the great video!
@@JardineiroRaizes Good Job!
I see an 80 -> instant like.
I reckon you own one. Maybe one day I will too.
Thank you Tim! This is another great point of reference. I will be rebuilding 2 sets of Tundra calipers; the 199mm, & the 231mm from a Sequoia. I just got them all cleaned up and ready to paint! Both factory kits are the very best; however, you still need to keep the inner seals to reuse them, because the factory kit do not come with these. Take care Brother!
You're welcome. I'm guessing the inner seals you're referring to are the ones that seal the caliper halves together? The piston seals should be replaced and are included in the rebuild kits.
I had heard from another person that if you don't have to crack the calipers apart, don't. Toyota doesn't sell the o-ring seals.
If you are reusing pistons with any corrosion, you want to put the piston in with the discoloration up. Opposite the staining in the caliper. The rust/stain/deposit always forms on the botom(as installed), because water that creeps in through the seal from the atmosphere collects on the bottom. Also, "brake caplier assembly fluid" is the best shit ever made. It's not hydroscopic. If this is a car you don't often drive, its mandatory.
Hey Andrew, thanks for the information contribution.
Another great video. I found your advice on getting the pistons out very encouraging because I don't have a compressor. So I assumed I wouldn't be able to do this job. But seeing your video changes all that. BTW I've done 2 valve cover gasket jobs on 5vz-fe rigs in the last month and both went perfect thanks to your channel.
Thanks! I'm glad you liked the video. Yeah, the air compressor trick to get the pistons out is more of a pain in the ass than it's worth, in my opinion. I suppose if you had the perfect progression of blocks and shims to get the pistons protruding out of the caliper fully, it wouldn't be bad, but we found we'd end up getting one piston that would shoot out too far and then we'd have to push the piston back in and reset. When I finally went to the screwdriver, I realized it was way more straightforward and easy to get the pistons out of the caliper.
It's great to hear our videos are helping you out. Thanks for the comment, and Happy Wrenching!
Merci pour cette vidéo, elle va m'aider.
You're very welcome.
A great product for the caliper and pad sliding points is Super Lube brake grease (97008 part number). It's silicone grease based with PTFE. Seems to have better overall reviews than various Permatex products.
Thanks for the tip Jordan!
Excellence as always guys !
Tim really good tutorial, just seeing that iconic truck. Thanks for encouraging sic mods safely.
Thanks! We're glad you like it. Yes, we're all about Sic Mods, not Dangerous Mods.
Very detail video on caliper rebuilt. I used this as a guide on 04 4runner, but 2 out of 4 pistons on both front calipers seized up and had to buy rebuilt calipers from Napa. One question though, why the rebuilt kit comes metal rings for pistons boots? The original calipers on my 4runner only have rubber boots on the pistons and they were easy to remove.
The metal rings help keep the boots in place so they don't slip off.
I bought some repackaged pads from Amazon and they had the squealers on both pads. They were new but I paid less than nine dollars for the set. My buddy said I got a deal because he said you can’t put brakes on a bicycle for less than nine dollars. 😀
You posted this twice, maybe by accident. I responded to the other comment.
It's likely that the small amount of corrosion or contamination to the pistons and inner cylinder, didn't get past the seals, but came from moisture in the brake fluid. Most brake master cylinders are vented to the outside *and* brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture), which is why the brake bleeding maintenance intervals are pretty important to follow closely.
Hey, that's a very good point. The brake fluid can develop moisture in it over time and that's why it's important to renew the fluid at regular intervals. Thanks for sharing this.
I know I learned the hard way on my Tundra put the wear indicator on the OUTSIDE not the inside pad. My outside wore before the inside and ate into the rotor before it squealed on me. Toyota should put indicators on all pads IMO.
I really think it's luck of the draw which side you put the pad with the wear indicator on so you catch it before you go metal on metal and destroy your rotors. I absolutely agree with you that Toyota and other manufacturers should put the wear indicators on all 4 pads.
I bought a set of pads from Amazon for my Tacoma. They were in the used and repackaged. I paid under nine dollars for them. They were brand new and they had the squealers on all of the pads.
My friend said I got a deal because you can’t put brakes on a bicycle for less than nine dollars. I don’t drive it that much and they have been great so far. I’m getting my money worth. 😀
@@stevanrose7439 Yeah, that sounds like a great deal. Most of the aftermarket suppliers of brake pads adhere an anti-squeal shim onto the back of the pad. Toyota does it differently. The pads come separate from the shim kit and the shim kit is made up of two shims, one slotted and one solid. But, the Toyota shims are reusable. Most people who replace their OEM pads with aftermarket pads, throw away the OEM shim kit, which is a mistake, if you ever want to go back to OEM pads.
Great timing. My dust covers are looking a little ratty so I need to do this before the pistons start sticking. I got the OEM kit but no grease. I assume I can just use a little brake fluid. Or should I use the same hi temp grease that I will coat the pins with?
I don't know what type of grease that is that comes with the kit. I think the high temp caliper grease would work fine.
good but there is another groove anteriorly in the cylinder in which outer rubber seal ring fold sits #👍🇵🇰
On my highlander I took off the caliper with the pads but left it attached to the brake line. I put a block of wood slightly less than the thickness of the rotor and stepped on the brakes. The pistons moved out.
Then put thinner wood, repeated till the pistons were almost out.
What do you think?
@SeshMurthy I think that can work, but if the calipers don't move equally, which is common, one side could pop completely out and then you have a huge mess of brake fluid and a more difficult time of bleeding the brakes afterwards.
@@TimmyTheToolman that’s why I started with thick wood moved the pistons a little, then put in thinner wood etc so that they moved in unison.
@@SeshMurthy Well, what can I say. It worked for you, so good job.
Lightly polish the area where the sides of the pad sit for free movement
I'm guessing you're talking about polishing the inside of the caliper on either side of the pads? There really shouldn't be any interference there, but I guess if there's a build-up of corrosion in that area, knocking it down with a wire brush would be advisable. The crucial things to make sure are smooth are the retaining pins the pads ride on.
what's the cost of just getting some new reman'd calipers with all-new pistons, boots and such... nice + shiny silver housings as well
Depends if you go aftermarket of OEM. OEM is more expensive. Either way, it's a huge savings doing the rebuild. HUGE! And, doing the rebuild isn't hard since we did a lot of the homework for people. Messing with the air pressure to get the calipers pistons out was sort of a waste of time, but we saw others do it and wanted to give it a try.
Front reman calipers are around $80 each and are very prone to leaking and failure. Toyota rebuild kit was about $50 total, and it stays Toyota and not some sweatshop rebuild. 😅
@@calokie5567 there is usually a core charge on those as well from the Yota dealer? I would not think a reman'd from OEM dealer would be prone to leaking but they do?
@@TimmyTheToolman i was just curious because my Taco rig has 329k miles and has seen plenty share of winter road salt! after a 1/4 century... maybe buy new pistons as well if they sell those? checking and they do sell new pistons at about 20$ each after the online discounters
@@calokie5567 i bot reman calipers for a Gen7 Corolla from the autoZone... they were stamped Toyota so is it a hit and miss with those mcStore parts?
Hey Tim my 97 taco the caliper piston boot is a little bit ripped, toyota wants $35 for each for the kit, should i rebuild or just buy new calipers if so what kind, thanks.
You literally could just replace the one boot and be done with it. You don't have to rebuild both calipers because of one ripped boot.
@@TimmyTheToolman im a noob lol i didnt know that, so i dont need the rebuild kit, i can just get a generic boot? thx
@yotagang3705 I don't know if you can buy just a boot. I was thinking, buy one rebuild kit and use one of the boots out of it. Save the other parts until you do want to rebuild the rest of the caliper.
Ah man :( . I was hoping you split the caliper. I plot my gx460 calipers to machine them and need the torque values
Just use that German spec of Gudentite. You'll be OK. Trust your torque elbow.
Betty’s debut on the big screen 📺 😂
During the job, I heard Betty whisper to me she wished Timmy the Toolman was her owner and she asked if she could come home with me. 😁
@@TimmyTheToolman
She just wants you to do her alternator upgrade 😎
@@calokie5567 Ohhh, Betty wants me to get her all charged up.
@@TimmyTheToolman she wants you to sell the 85 and buy one of her sisters 😎
@@calokie5567 Probably won't happen, but maybe I'll just add an 80 to the fleet one day.
Why do calibers link even though the rings look fine they're just old?
Did you mean to say "Leak"?
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes leak.... The rubber rings look fine but the caliber was leaking badly and the piston is polished as smooth as glass The only rust was inside the grooves
@@gasisthepastendoil My guess is the seal just got old and less supple and it started leaking.
thanks for the videos. i got a 4runner that is stuck in 4 lo. j shift . 2000 sr5 w e locker. i cant get the transcase in to 4 hi or 2 hi. stays in 4 lo even if i put in N and shift out of 4 lo to 4 hi then to 2 wd it shifts out on 4 lo kinda . but not in to 4 hi. but grinds . like a half neutral. electrics say is shifts 4 wd off and on. but stays stuck in 4 lo or when i can force it out of 4 lo , it just grinds or rubs. i dont kno but its stuck in 4 lo. what can i do . i was going to swap this used one in i got today. but thought id ask a professional
I've never troubleshooted the transfer cases on 3rd Gen 4runners. I've never had an issue with either of my rigs and nobody local to me has asked for help either. I would suggest posting your question on a Toyota forum like T4R.org or a Toyota Facebook group like 3rd Gen Mafia and maybe somebody has some answers for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman Appreciate it.
@@HarleyRunner No problem. If you find an answer to the problem, please share it with me so I can learn about it.
tnk bro am mekanik ı love yuo tu love video tu tnk 👑
Thanks for the love!
I struggle to fit those clips on rubber boots on prado. They're coming off ...bastardsss
Interesting. It didn't seem too hard with the calipers we were working on.