JOE! You have earned another stripe! Getting closer to NON-NOOB level knowledge with this latest video. I am downloading and printing this test ASAP! Thank you for creating and sharing this.
Great video Joe, you are the first person I've come across to explain settings in S3D clearly and concisely, perfect for a N00B! have you done any other S3D videos? Great work mate, please keep it up.
fantastic, its explained loads!!!! ive just bought a new chiron and prints are great......BUT!!!! the stringing is appalling due to many factors as made clear herein! Im now much better equipped to tackle the issue. Thanks Joe!!!
Old video but great setup. I would add that before retraction, it seems best to find the optimal flow rate (varies with filament softness) maybe with a cube, and then temperature with a temperature tower. Difficult filaments might need a temperature tower at different speeds to find the optimal "gooeyness" for strong and good looking prints.
For achieving this with Cura you can edit the Gcode file with notepad. Look at the layer preview and see how many layers for each section. Slice a full tower for each setting and save in separate file name (eg section 1,2,3... etc), pick one as the master, then using ctrl+f to find 'layer:x', copy/paste to replace the section layers and save the file. Keep in mind that layer 1 in Cura is called Layer 0 in the gcode file - subtract 1 from what you see in Cura.
Nice video. I have been doing a little digging into some of the more esoteric settings in Cura myself. It's really amazing what a little change in setting will do.
Great video, still waiting for my first 3d printer to arrive, but will definitely use the this to dial in retraction. Would be awesome with a video explaining Your process from receiving a brand new filament, to figuring out best settings, ex. temperature, retraction, and other potential settings.
Great video Joe, can´t wait for the next on this series, am noob I have a i3 Plus, you have a set of numbers I can try to on my printer?, I will do the extrusion calibration following your video too, you talk about a temperature video but couldn´t find it, as you see I name you my mentor, great work!!
Don't do 5mm or more on E3D v5/V6 or it'll cause partial jams in the heatbreak etc. It's not visible but you'll get inconsistent prints and extrusion and end up like me trying everything to figure out what's wrong xD You can reduce temps to reduce stringing and you can get rid of any more stringing by just using a razor or a finger or a heat gun
Interesting, I never bothered to investigate what this whole retraction thing was, but now i got a good idea about it. Thanks a lot. You might ask yourself how many years it will take before consumer printers are able to manage these settings automatically. I mean, this is still a lot of years away from a hassle free experience in many aspects, a successful print requires a lot of knowledge about the printer settings, materials, adhesion and last but not least modelling skills if you want to make your own items and not download some standard stuff.
+3d guy247 yep, and even just to download and print things it takes time and tinkering. 16 printers later and I still spend a lot of time failing in setting for printers and different filaments
in Cura you go into Plug-ins and use the Tweak at Z for setting up multiple processes but it doesn't have the retraction values listed to be able to tweak
For Cura, use the Z-Height plugin. I think it's installed by default in Cura 2.3. It lets you change settings on a height basis. I don't remember if you're limited in which settings you can change. I know you can change temp.
Oh, by the way, it doesn't look like there is a way of setting different retraction-settings for different models in Slic3r. You can apply different infill-parameters and a lot of other stuff and not only to different models, but even to different parts of a single model, but retraction-settings are missing from the list.
Slic3r seems like a huge mess, even the Prusa-improved version. I would like to see being able to save more settings per-filament, instead of only per-printer -- it just seems like bad design to me. I was thinking of opening an issue for this and the retraction-setting on their github, so it'd hopefully get fixed in the future.
For the PETG could try it again with a lower temperature 250 is way high I think. I use around 215, I think that your test with the PETG suffers from a too high temperature. Am I right ? Thanks for the video it was helpfull.
This can be done is Slic3r using Modification Meshes. Its not nearly as easy as Simplify, The modification mesh system is not terribly well documented but it can be super powerful. I'm probably be building a tutorial on it soon. ...EDIT... Looks like I'm incorrect. In Slic3r, you can't use a Modification Mesh to change settings for the 'Printer' tab. I'll have to find a way around that.
Unfortunately i don't think cura has the option do set multiple processes in any easy way. the best way to do it is print only the 1st section each time with different settings
Hello :) I've tried this with the setting-variations you used and there are 2 Strings hanging down on every Layer ( I think it's because it prints the outlines first, than the filling - it basically prints in the air if you get me) How could i fix this issue?
Hi Joe, have watched many of your videos and learned a lot from you. So big Thx. Just one thing with this print can you share the rest of your S3D settings like speed and layers etc. I notice in your video when yous slice the layers are all Green at a single speed. When I do this I am getting really slow speeds for my towers 2.3. I have tried setting the outline speed to 100 and base speed to 60 but makes not difference. I just feel like I am missing one settings. Also what do you recommend as Speed for an I3 Plus (i have the Coccon Create Touch Aussie rebrand).
+netwolfstar hey, please accept my apology for the late reply. Truly sorry as it gets hectic with comments :) glad you sorted it out, that setting is something to always keep an eye out for as some filament don't like slow speeds and others need it. As for speed on that particular printer, I find the best quality comes out at no more than 45mm/s
Oh, that's a good start for your guide. I hope there is more to come on similar settings that will affect the print quaility. Do you have any suggestions for the "pi tower" www.thingiverse.com/thing:271769? It seems to be quite hard to print. None of the makes look perfect. I got a lot of stringing as well, with a PLA filament where I normally have no issues on the MK2. I tried to reduce the temps a bit, but that did not really improve the print. Any suggestions what to try?
+Wolfgang Schadow I will be doing many more as there is so much to cover. With the pi tower try including zhop and coasting. Also depends on the retraction speed and distance. Still have to print it to be honest
Well, that's good. And it's good timing. After you spoke about changing some settings (I think it retraction) I wanted to suggest some guide of series / guide might be a good idea for your channel :) You had a great video for Valentines day (unfortunately on that day, so there was no time to print anything ;) What about a video on the pi--tower for pi-day (this on March 14th, coming from the first digits of pi 3.14.... ? Can you give any advice: right now I'm using distance 2.0mm, speed 30mm/s, in which direction to change? Higher numbers?
which slicer are you using? i'd say try 3.mm at 40mm/s second. make sure you have z-hop of 0.5mm as the prusa likes that :) i would also try lowering the temps for the filament, that also helps
Ok, thanks, that's a good starting point. I use S3D. I lowered the temp from 205 to 200 already and will go a little deeper with that as well. I'll try with next slot in my print queue :) Thanks!
ok, I tried this and also increased the speed while not printing as suggested in this link by Dave Gaylord. All of this was not really an improvement. :(
I don't think it is a great idea to mix bridging with retraction. I definitely appreciate the approach, the cube method doesn't let you test the different settings in one print.
+Jeffrey Drake the bringing is just there to support the towers, it wasn't intended to test both. I also didn't want to create a test piece that would use too much filament
For some reason when I use retraction in my anet a8 it makes the layer it’s on very bad , it look at a print and in the places where it was retracting there was very bad layers , over and under extrusion. I am retracting my filliment 5 mm back it . How can it fix my settings?
I do not understand some details too complicated to translate into French but overall I understand. Thank you for this video, I can not wait to see the Anycubic :-) Thanks, Bye from France
thanks , good pronunsiation, I hoppe know how print well ,could you write the best parametres from yours test please?, i cant print eny thing in 7 months, i tray but all have a problems whith abs, pla and pet, i have simplifi3d, and creality Cr10 XL and Hictop, and Anet E 10, but the problems are the same. sorry my english. thanks fo a soon answer as possible.
Great job brother, thank you for the info. Has anyone used the JGAurora... having stringing issues. Going to try some of these tricks but if anyone has any perfect profiles to share I would love you all forever! ;)
Printed this on my new fabrikator mini 2, and with section 4 I had absolutely no stringing. Moving on to print a 3D benchy with those settings, and I know it's a torture test, I just had crazy stringing. Any ideas to tune it more, or if the benchy is just that difficult to print?
+Karsten the benchy is pretty much the all round torture test, it was created to see what a printer is candle of all around. So it might need some more tweaking.
Just printed Aria the dragon, which also was stringing like crazy. Have been printing a small retraction test, similar to Your tower, just going between two columns. Everything looks good, so not sure how to tweak, when the test shows all good.
Yes they were selected and I found it. I would have found it sooner but I was not expecting Simplify3D to set a "Stop printing at" limit all by its self. I have never used the Stop printing at" command but there it was set at 7mm and once I disabled it all the tower layers were shown. Thanks and keep up the GREAT work.
+mikes makes yes you can. You can choose which section has supports. With sinplify3d you have custom support placement so it makes your life much easier
JOE! You have earned another stripe! Getting closer to NON-NOOB level knowledge with this latest video. I am downloading and printing this test ASAP! Thank you for creating and sharing this.
+Print 3D Channel haha I always want to be a noob, that way I'm always hungry to learn ;) thanks buddy
Great video Joe, you are the first person I've come across to explain settings in S3D clearly and concisely, perfect for a N00B! have you done any other S3D videos? Great work mate, please keep it up.
fantastic, its explained loads!!!! ive just bought a new chiron and prints are great......BUT!!!! the stringing is appalling due to many factors as made clear herein! Im now much better equipped to tackle the issue. Thanks Joe!!!
Old video but great setup. I would add that before retraction, it seems best to find the optimal flow rate (varies with filament softness) maybe with a cube, and then temperature with a temperature tower. Difficult filaments might need a temperature tower at different speeds to find the optimal "gooeyness" for strong and good looking prints.
For achieving this with Cura you can edit the Gcode file with notepad. Look at the layer preview and see how many layers for each section. Slice a full tower for each setting and save in separate file name (eg section 1,2,3... etc), pick one as the master, then using ctrl+f to find 'layer:x', copy/paste to replace the section layers and save the file.
Keep in mind that layer 1 in Cura is called Layer 0 in the gcode file - subtract 1 from what you see in Cura.
Nice video. I have been doing a little digging into some of the more esoteric settings in Cura myself. It's really amazing what a little change in setting will do.
+The Gentleman Scoundrel agreed, so many factors come into play and little tweaks make a huge difference
Great video, still waiting for my first 3d printer to arrive, but will definitely use the this to dial in retraction. Would be awesome with a video explaining Your process from receiving a brand new filament, to figuring out best settings, ex. temperature, retraction, and other potential settings.
working on it, should be out next week :)
3D Maker Noob That's awesome Joe
Great video Joe, can´t wait for the next on this series, am noob I have a i3 Plus, you have a set of numbers I can try to on my printer?, I will do the extrusion calibration following your video too, you talk about a temperature video but couldn´t find it, as you see I name you my mentor, great work!!
hi thanks for the video.. i did only single peaces using slic3r. this fix my main problem with both stringing and bridging
+Andrew Gilmour glad I could help :)
thanks.. it allowed me to test just for 2 things , stringing and bridging.. not like the bencky :)
Thank you a lot this is awesome! I didn't know about retraction after wipe thing :)
You're underrated! Also like these kind of videos
You could also have a solid model and just set up the different processes to start and stop at sets heights in the advanced section.
+Peter Adlam yep, will try to cover all of the settings during the series. Will take a bit of time hehe
Awesome, lots of good information here. Thanks for the video.
+Mykel appreciate it, thank you :)
Don't do 5mm or more on E3D v5/V6 or it'll cause partial jams in the heatbreak etc. It's not visible but you'll get inconsistent prints and extrusion and end up like me trying everything to figure out what's wrong xD
You can reduce temps to reduce stringing and you can get rid of any more stringing by just using a razor or a finger or a heat gun
Interesting, I never bothered to investigate what this whole retraction thing was, but now i got a good idea about it. Thanks a lot. You might ask yourself how many years it will take before consumer printers are able to manage these settings automatically. I mean, this is still a lot of years away from a hassle free experience in many aspects, a successful print requires a lot of knowledge about the printer settings, materials, adhesion and last but not least modelling skills if you want to make your own items and not download some standard stuff.
+3d guy247 yep, and even just to download and print things it takes time and tinkering. 16 printers later and I still spend a lot of time failing in setting for printers and different filaments
"This video came out *absolutely gorgeous*"
+Nita Vesa but absolutely though? :)
I always use z-lift, with deltas it's basically a must (my delta is much bigger, so a longer bowden tube).
+kazolar yep, agreed. With a Bowden you have a lot of accumulated pressure so any help would be a huge benefit
in Cura you go into Plug-ins and use the Tweak at Z for setting up multiple processes but it doesn't have the retraction values listed to be able to tweak
I hope you do more of these "dialing in" style videos! Any chance you would do one on extrusion multipliers?
+John Wall hey, funnily enough working on I am working on extruder tuning and multipliers :)
3D Maker Noob Aww yisss, that's going to help me out a lot!
For Cura, use the Z-Height plugin. I think it's installed by default in Cura 2.3. It lets you change settings on a height basis. I don't remember if you're limited in which settings you can change. I know you can change temp.
i think someone mentioned this but said that retractions are not included. will have a look into it. thank you :)
Oh, by the way, it doesn't look like there is a way of setting different retraction-settings for different models in Slic3r. You can apply different infill-parameters and a lot of other stuff and not only to different models, but even to different parts of a single model, but retraction-settings are missing from the list.
+Nita Vesa hmmmm I figured as much. Will see if there are any open sources addons you could install
Slic3r seems like a huge mess, even the Prusa-improved version. I would like to see being able to save more settings per-filament, instead of only per-printer -- it just seems like bad design to me. I was thinking of opening an issue for this and the retraction-setting on their github, so it'd hopefully get fixed in the future.
For the PETG could try it again with a lower temperature 250 is way high I think. I use around 215, I think that your test with the PETG suffers from a too high temperature. Am I right ? Thanks for the video it was helpfull.
TheBookaroo I agree, 230 degrees is my sweet spot for Rigid.ink's PETG.
Me Too.... 235 is where I've landed on optimism for PETG
agreed!!
Different PLAs have different stringing btw. So some string more
This can be done is Slic3r using Modification Meshes. Its not nearly as easy as Simplify, The modification mesh system is not terribly well documented but it can be super powerful. I'm probably be building a tutorial on it soon.
...EDIT...
Looks like I'm incorrect. In Slic3r, you can't use a Modification Mesh to change settings for the 'Printer' tab. I'll have to find a way around that.
+Joe Herbert Shane, if you do figure it out and do a tutorial, please drop me a link :)
Remarkable, I was about to begin researching retractions.
+Tim Johnson hopefully this helps :) so much more to cover though in retractions
Awesome demonstration! PETG is a bear to print with anyway.
+Jimmy Shaw's Tidbits yep, but when you get it right it's an absolutely gorgeous filament
Can I do that in cura? I dont own a copy of simplify3d, but the idea of testing a few settings with each print is great
Unfortunately i don't think cura has the option do set multiple processes in any easy way. the best way to do it is print only the 1st section each time with different settings
do the test on the Wanhao, will be interesting for me and maybe others too
Hello :) I've tried this with the setting-variations you used and there are 2 Strings hanging down on every Layer ( I think it's because it prints the outlines first, than the filling - it basically prints in the air if you get me) How could i fix this issue?
Hi Joe, have watched many of your videos and learned a lot from you. So big Thx. Just one thing with this print can you share the rest of your S3D settings like speed and layers etc. I notice in your video when yous slice the layers are all Green at a single speed. When I do this I am getting really slow speeds for my towers 2.3. I have tried setting the outline speed to 100 and base speed to 60 but makes not difference. I just feel like I am missing one settings. Also what do you recommend as Speed for an I3 Plus (i have the Coccon Create Touch Aussie rebrand).
its ok I worked it out, i had speed overrides set under cooling which was slowing the print down.
+netwolfstar hey, please accept my apology for the late reply. Truly sorry as it gets hectic with comments :) glad you sorted it out, that setting is something to always keep an eye out for as some filament don't like slow speeds and others need it. As for speed on that particular printer, I find the best quality comes out at no more than 45mm/s
What are the settings for bowden extruder? retr. distance, retr speed and wipe? have you tested it? thx
I choose select all processes and nothing appears and it says 0 hours 0 minutes :( it hsows them if I choose them individually
Hi :) How did you solve the problem?
Good video once again. Will be of much use once I get my Prusa. =)
+Fredrik Bärg thank you :)
Hey, great video about 3D printing. I would like to know what 3D modeling software you currently using?
What you see here is unfortunately simply3d. It costs 150 bucks. Wish he used a free slices for this.
He asked about the modelling software which in this case was tinkercad(free) and I also use fusion360 (also free)
Oh, that's a good start for your guide. I hope there is more to come on similar settings that will affect the print quaility. Do you have any suggestions for the "pi tower" www.thingiverse.com/thing:271769? It seems to be quite hard to print. None of the makes look perfect. I got a lot of stringing as well, with a PLA filament where I normally have no issues on the MK2. I tried to reduce the temps a bit, but that did not really improve the print. Any suggestions what to try?
+Wolfgang Schadow I will be doing many more as there is so much to cover. With the pi tower try including zhop and coasting. Also depends on the retraction speed and distance. Still have to print it to be honest
Well, that's good. And it's good timing. After you spoke about changing some settings (I think it retraction) I wanted to suggest some guide of series / guide might be a good idea for your channel :) You had a great video for Valentines day (unfortunately on that day, so there was no time to print anything ;) What about a video on the pi--tower for pi-day (this on March 14th, coming from the first digits of pi 3.14.... ? Can you give any advice: right now I'm using distance 2.0mm, speed 30mm/s, in which direction to change? Higher numbers?
which slicer are you using? i'd say try 3.mm at 40mm/s second. make sure you have z-hop of 0.5mm as the prusa likes that :) i would also try lowering the temps for the filament, that also helps
Ok, thanks, that's a good starting point. I use S3D. I lowered the temp from 205 to 200 already and will go a little deeper with that as well. I'll try with next slot in my print queue :) Thanks!
ok, I tried this and also increased the speed while not printing as suggested in this link by Dave Gaylord. All of this was not really an improvement. :(
I don't think it is a great idea to mix bridging with retraction. I definitely appreciate the approach, the cube method doesn't let you test the different settings in one print.
+Jeffrey Drake the bringing is just there to support the towers, it wasn't intended to test both. I also didn't want to create a test piece that would use too much filament
For some reason when I use retraction in my anet a8 it makes the layer it’s on very bad , it look at a print and in the places where it was retracting there was very bad layers , over and under extrusion. I am retracting my filliment 5 mm back it . How can it fix my settings?
Is there sth like wipe and coasting in Cura? I can only find retraction distance and speed.
hello you make mention of a bridging video ..i can't find it .. i've look for that but havent found it. can you give us the link ?
+Ultrasonic2 look up the rigid.ink petg filament review I have
I do not understand some details too complicated to translate into French but overall I understand. Thank you for this video, I can not wait to see the Anycubic :-) Thanks, Bye from France
thanks , good pronunsiation, I hoppe know how print well ,could you write the best parametres from yours test please?, i cant print eny thing in 7 months, i tray but all have a problems whith abs, pla and pet, i have simplifi3d, and creality Cr10 XL and Hictop, and Anet E 10, but the problems are the same.
sorry my english. thanks fo a soon answer as possible.
superb as always....
3mm of retraction would be way too much for the prusa. Would like to have seen the wipe during retract with lower retraction distance.
very good video! thank you so much!
Great job brother, thank you for the info. Has anyone used the JGAurora... having stringing issues. Going to try some of these tricks but if anyone has any perfect profiles to share I would love you all forever! ;)
Printed this on my new fabrikator mini 2, and with section 4 I had absolutely no stringing. Moving on to print a 3D benchy with those settings, and I know it's a torture test, I just had crazy stringing. Any ideas to tune it more, or if the benchy is just that difficult to print?
+Karsten the benchy is pretty much the all round torture test, it was created to see what a printer is candle of all around. So it might need some more tweaking.
Just printed Aria the dragon, which also was stringing like crazy.
Have been printing a small retraction test, similar to Your tower, just going between two columns. Everything looks good, so not sure how to tweak, when the test shows all good.
Nice video and thanks but when I click "prepare to print" I only see the bottom layer any ideas what I am doing wrong? Thanks
+John Giffin have you chosen to print all processes at once?
Yes they were selected and I found it. I would have found it sooner but I was not expecting Simplify3D to set a "Stop printing at" limit all by its self. I have never used the Stop printing at" command but there it was set at 7mm and once I disabled it all the tower layers were shown. Thanks and keep up the GREAT work.
+John Giffin glad you got it sorted, sorry for the late reply, it gets hectic :) and thank you
would this e about the same in ideaMaker?
can you have supports just in the middle. i had a print the other day i would have like to choose where i had supports
+mikes makes yes you can. You can choose which section has supports. With sinplify3d you have custom support placement so it makes your life much easier
ill have to check that out i have always used slic3r
Thank you , you are very good
+Salman Hassan thank you :)
Though this was a Ted talk, not disappointed
Nice job.
+Tes G thank you :)
th-cam.com/video/ikwa3nVHrO8/w-d-xo.html i did not watch it but tweak at z should have this and other features.. ive used it for temp tower
So we've got a Noob, a Nerd, and a Professor. Who else do we have?
You can call me ignorant because I'm lost, but if so at least educate me so I can guide others.
HI Joe i am the First one to view
awesome! :)