Subscribed and Liked. I just did this and after one measurement it is exactly on the money. The one thing I did different was disconnect the Bowden Tube, flush-cut the filament at the fitting, run 100mm, flush-cut at fitting again, straighten cut filament, and measure with ruler on desktop. It was EXACTLY 100mm
Glad someone has put a vid on this, i would wreckomend people should do this asap when they have extruder issues. even if it is a New printer. hence there has been a lot of folks saying there extruder head is clipping their object, This option is good for beds that have Decorating tape. this option is best as if you try doing it from an alternative Datum you may get worse issues. this is because if you printer is not 100% square/aligned/True it will put you measurements off in the slicer. To calibrate along the X,Y go into controls select 100 mm and click the X+ and the Y+ button, use a pencil and mark around the extruder nozzle. you should have about a 1-2mm diameter circle you may need to remove your fan Nozzle to get better access to nozzle, NOTE it does not matter if circle is big or not totally round as we will use centering logic, Basically the middle if the circle :) . And so this is your centre. (not actual centre of bed but of our task) ok when done click the Home Button, So its out of the way. Now measure up 100mm from the center of the circle and also measure from the circle to the Right of your bed 100mm Ok breather time LOL So now you click on the 100mm and click button X+ once and same with Y+ and were back to the middle of the circle that you made drawn with pencil/marker. This time click again once more on the X+ button and see how far that goes to the next 100mm mark that you put on the bed and mark it and measure it to get measurement. and do the same calc and input into settings as Joe has shown in this vid. Just do the same for the Y axis after getting to the centre of circle, IE move Y+ 100mm from centre. (WARNING MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NO HEAT ON THE EXTRUDER OR BED) IM NOT RESPONSSIBLE FOR ANY OUCHES!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This by far is the easiest and understanble way to get a near perfect calibration. In my case it was an origanal E step of 93 and calibrated it to 111. Almost a 20% increase. Made a world of difference on the first layer. Again thanks, keep up the great work.
Excellent video. Great job explaining how to properly use software to make your hardware function better. Many people think just plug in and go. Both software and hardware need to work together for the best prints :)
Hi Joe! Thanks for the video! And thanks for the Mattercontrols tip! I didn't know it! I have the same printer as you. E94.3 by default, and extrudes around 60mm instead of 100mm. I follow the formula and I get something like E130 or so, but then nothing changes. Any suggestion? Thanks
Hello, just got my first printer and i've been having issues where the machine wont send enough filament through, so this is a great video to follow. Problem is that when i followed ur instructions to the teeth i had some issues. So when i first extruded the 100MM it only extruded 8 MM. so for the first equation should be 100 - 8 = 92, went on with the next equation 100/8 = 12.5, the current step was set to 93 so last equation should be 12.5 x 93= 1162.5. Adding this number and trying to extrude 100MM made my filament retract and actually go out of the extruder. I dont really know why this happened hoping you could shed some light.
Someone may have already pointed this out, but, when you do your first length multiplier calculation (at about 7:00 into the video), the on-screen text uses the incorrect extrusion length, and, therefore, the calculated length multiplier is incorrect. What you're saying in the video is correct, thus it doesn't match the incorrect on-screen text. Despite this small error, thanks for such an easy to understand method for doing something I didn't know I should be doing. 😆
Great video as always! Will definitely be doing this. I have a question, after saving to EPROM will SD card printing use the new values? As I dont want to keep the printer hooked up to my pc.
you are the man im loving your channel top quality content Plus all the info and tweaks very complete without making a 3 hr vídeo out of it congrats to you keep up the good work, soon enough we will have a fan mail section in wich i would gladly participante any ways thanks for your input to the community
I found it easier to control by removing Bowden tube (if available) then putting filament flush with extruder. Then you can run it in and out until it is dialed in without marking filament.
Hey how is going? I watch your videos just because you explain the stuff like is for someone that has no idea about the equipment and thats awesome for me. Do you sell stickers with your channel name?
thanks for the tutorial. I will be trying this with my new anycubic i3 mega straight out of the box. question: does this calibration change for different materials? or do they all extruded at same rate?
+Glen Childress if the diameter is the same, the extrusion is the same. However! Some materials might need higher extrusion rate just because of the way they are. Those little adjustment are done through the slicer though
That's actually really helpful. I'd be a bit too scared to mess around with gcode directly, I guess. I wouldn't want to break anything by issuing the wrong command. Using Mattercontrol for that is definitely much less error-prone, I'd say! Thanks for the video, Joe!
Hi! Did you mean that the same formula is applicable to the X, Y & Z axis, isn't it? So, while the desired extrusion/moving length didn't match the actual length, you need to: (desired length / actual length) * configured steps per mm = new steps per mm value Greetings from Spain!
Would this still be a current way to calibrate an extruder today? I am confident that my Anycubic i3 Mega S extruder is under extruding. Will this method work to calibrate this extruder? Thanks!
I have a i3 Plus as well and I want to upgrade the stock hotend. do you have a video about the new extruder? How would you recommend it versus other options like the Flexion and Microswiss? Thanks.
to be completely honest i have only tried it out for the past week, it's been great so far but have yet to test it out with TPU and other flexible filaments. i don't see why it shouldn't work as good as a flexion if not better as it's the same concept. will have a video up in a little while once i've done more testing on it :)
Hello, thank you for making this video. I have a duplicator 4 running sailfish firmware. When I click the configure button next to EEPROM I get an error prompt saying "oops there is no eeprom mapping for your printer's firmware." Please advise? Thank you :)
Good afternoon, my tevo tarantula pro is leaking filaments on the sides of the extruder, is too much filament being deposited? If so, how does the calibration perform? I wait and God bless.
If it's leaking around the threads of the nozzle or next to the heatbreak, probably your nozzle is not installed right. It should not butt on the heater block, but sit tightly against the heat brake. Maybe that is your problem.
I'm getting this message when I click Configure for EEProm under the hardware section in MatterControl. "Oops! There was no eeprom mapping for your printer's firmware. You may need to wait a minute for your printer to finish initializing."
by mistake the overlay text was for the second calculation of the 100/102 which is why it displayed 0.97. the initial calculation was 100mm - 41mm = 59mm, and then you divide 100 / 59 = 1.6949. apologies for the confusion :)
Hey Joe, just did this on my CR-10, and it's now dialed in, extruding exact length of filament. I'm still having issues though. Printing a 2 perimeter hollow box, with a multiplier of 1.0, the walls get way to thick, 1.12mm where they should be 0.96 (2 x 0.48). Multiplier of 0.9 the thickness is perfect, but I seem to get underextrusion on prints. So seems I have the choice of calibration being perfect but tendency of underextruding. Or going higher, where prints show less signs of underextrusion, but having the walls to thick causing some things to fuse... Any suggestions?
I am using s3d with auto 0.48. But to my knowledge, setting the width 0.40 will just lower extrusion accordingly, and put the lines that closer. So if I have the issue of 2 perimeters not being 2 x 0.48 now, will setting 0.40 not just give me the same relative error.?
+Karsten set the multiplier to 1.0 and extrusion width to manual at 0.4. If it's calibrated, it should print just right. Had the same issue on the Sigma when I changed to bongtech extruder that's why I'm suggesting it
Dude, I picked your video because I saw 2 of your other ones that were good. But this one, oh boy. There's a lot wrong here. The math is wrong, the overlays are wrong, you're using the cleaning procedure to extrude... what happened? You either should delete this video or redo it. M503 ;grab current E value from the M92 line printed out G92 E0 ;reset extruder _EVERYTIME_ G1 E100 F90 ;extrude 100mm at 90mm ; use G1 with F to use a sane speed ; unload is WAY too fast (it's meant for cleaning) and you will almost always come up short of 100mm (unless you use PLA and set your hot end blazing at like 300c). ; then plug in your old E value along with whatever you measured to get your new E value ; $New_E_Value = $Old_E_Value * ( $Want_To_Extrude / $Actually_Extruded) ; or any variation of that simple formula ie. $New_E_Value = ($Old_E_Value * $Want_to_Extrude) / $Actually_Extruded ; M92 E$New_E_Value M500 ;save ;
Its actually not spot on for whatever reason. I also recently did a video on this because I had to adjust mine as well and the 'new' number was quite a bit off from the factory default. Not exactly sure why this was the case but it was. I used Pronterface though you can really do this directly from the machine's control panel if you want to manually extrude the filament. Otherwise its the same process / math to get your new e-step value.
joe i don't suppose you have meshmixer there. i so need to get back the older version. version 3. the update version has removed one the functions i use. and i can't carry on with my builds. :( i tried to find links to download the older version. :(
its ok joe i managed to sort it. someone on the anycubic facebook page sent me it. and then i got an email also from autodesk saying The auto-repair functionality has been moved to the Inspector tool (under Analysis). Hope this helps!. so will check that later. :)
@@3DMakerNoob Joe... ive done 30+ years in IT as a consultant and still bugger up the simplest of tasks. You are making a massive difference to newbies like me. Thanks Mate!! from UK
Update. Anycubic kossel linear plus I checked was extruding 96%.... Naughty kossel!! 😀. So I adjusted. Now it's bang on!!! You can't quantify the massive help that your channel and some of the other good contributors provide... People helping people. From all over the world every race religion even different football supporters lol😝... Thanks mate
Jeffrey Drake the most common way is by sending commands through repetier or pronterface. M92 codes and such. Could get tricky, this is just more straight forward
Almost all interfaces, pronterface and s3d included where you can tell it to extrude a set amount. One thing I usually prefer to do is do it without the hot end attached, so you can test retraction and extrusion at the same time.
Hmmmm…….that was something I thought about some weeks ago when I bought my E3 Pro...……...someone should design and market a filament feed rate indicator that measures the amount of filament that flows into the extruder in a minute etc. I also have to wonder why it would not be better to have an adjustable speed control for the stepper motor to adjust the filament feed rate. Then you could adjust the filament feed rate on the move according to the feed rate indicator. Over or under extrusion would be infinitely variable and corrected as needed.
+Linda Marika I think at some point we will all repeat each other in some way. We just all give it our own personal touch :) mine comes with hair ;) hehe
Honestly, you should have done this video correctly. You should have explained in actual Gcode or adjusting it on a printer. Doing it 2-3 times makes it very simple to get the process down. Your program isn't what everybody else uses and what you've done is just make it difficult. the only difference between what you did and what you would do in gcode is the extra commands you sent to save it and load it, that's really it. Although editing the firmware is still simple it is a few extra "what have I gotten myself into" steps that most people shouldn't need to get into.
+Joey duncan and an alternative process will come in due course. This is one of many way to calibrate an extruder which ultimately works. You can walk from A to B in many different ways and still get there. If it works then there is no harm, gcode can be intimidating to many beginners and there is no need for it to be. I don't want to risk giving out the wrong information before I have mastered something in the best way I know how. As you said, the only difference from what I did or "could" have done is the gcode commands. So I'll cover both and still cover everything
Joey duncan I've checked with matterhackers and they confirmed it's the same exact thing, the only difference is that the "codes" in mattercontrol are sent automatically rather than the user entering them manually. Works exactly the same way in technical terms, just a more user friendly way :)
It's changing software is all, that can be exhausting enough, you have to resetup the printer for THAT software and it may not work for their printer. In the time it takes to download and install that software alone you would be done with three simple commands: M500,M501,M503 (not in order)Or if you can do it on your printer you just have to adjust it ands remember to save which is even simpler. But I do admit it's not simple, calibration should be a focus for ALL printer software and firmware versions.
3D Maker Noob qas kelli ghalfejn kemm ilni nbiegh Wanhao hawn Malta. imma ptfe tube qieghed replacement ghal dak li hemm diga gewwa. Wanhao i3 plus printjajt flex filament just right out of the box.
patrick4485 ptfe hemm tnejn, wahda ghat throat u ohra ghal intake gol gear. Prosit tal bejh, jalla tibqa sejjer hekk. Missek tkellem lill angus ghax laqqas hu ma rnexxielu jiprintja bin ninaflex fuq tieghu. Ghallmu kif
3D Maker Noob kummenti apparti. Issa ahdem kif tkompli 3D print wara li jinqata d-dawl. Utli hafna titghallimha, editting tal-code... jien ghamiltha u tifranka hafna kliem hazin u telf ta materjal. Keep it up Joe.
Subscribed and Liked. I just did this and after one measurement it is exactly on the money. The one thing I did different was disconnect the Bowden Tube, flush-cut the filament at the fitting, run 100mm, flush-cut at fitting again, straighten cut filament, and measure with ruler on desktop. It was EXACTLY 100mm
Glad someone has put a vid on this, i would wreckomend people should do this asap when they have extruder issues. even if it is a New printer. hence there has been a lot of folks saying there extruder head is clipping their object,
This option is good for beds that have Decorating tape. this option is best as if you try doing it from an alternative Datum you may get worse issues. this is because if you printer is not 100% square/aligned/True it will put you measurements off in the slicer.
To calibrate along the X,Y go into controls select 100 mm and click the X+ and the Y+ button, use a pencil and mark around the extruder nozzle.
you should have about a 1-2mm diameter circle you may need to remove your fan Nozzle to get better access to nozzle, NOTE it does not matter if circle is big or not totally round as we will use centering logic, Basically the middle if the circle :) .
And so this is your centre. (not actual centre of bed but of our task) ok when done click the Home Button, So its out of the way.
Now measure up 100mm from the center of the circle and also measure from the circle to the Right of your bed 100mm
Ok breather time LOL
So now you click on the 100mm and click button X+ once and same with Y+ and were back to the middle of the circle that you made drawn with pencil/marker.
This time click again once more on the X+ button and see how far that goes to the next 100mm mark that you put on the bed and mark it and measure it to get measurement.
and do the same calc and input into settings as Joe has shown in this vid.
Just do the same for the Y axis after getting to the centre of circle, IE move Y+ 100mm from centre.
(WARNING MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NO HEAT ON THE EXTRUDER OR BED) IM NOT RESPONSSIBLE FOR ANY OUCHES!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This by far is the easiest and understanble way to get a near perfect calibration. In my case it was an origanal E step of 93 and calibrated it to 111. Almost a 20% increase. Made a world of difference on the first layer. Again thanks, keep up the great work.
My estep was 92, after calibration it was 188.9. No surprise that it made a difference
This saved the hobby for me! :) Robo 3D R1+ has been great...but needs a lot of hand-holding like this to dial it in!
Great video. Would you do a video on installing the driver for the printer in a Mac. Can’t get the computer to communicate with the printer.
Excellent video. Great job explaining how to properly use software to make your hardware function better. Many people think just plug in and go. Both software and hardware need to work together for the best prints :)
+Eric Jaffe thanks Eric :) tried to simplify it as much as possible but ultimately I think I still made a short process a long one lol
Thank you Joe for an excellent and very helpful video. I'm new to 3D printing and find information like this invaluable.
+Airwaves Ted I appreciate it thank you :)
The wonderful thing about under extruding is that the print costs way less from using less material. :)
Hi Joe!
Thanks for the video! And thanks for the Mattercontrols tip! I didn't know it!
I have the same printer as you. E94.3 by default, and extrudes around 60mm instead of 100mm. I follow the formula and I get something like E130 or so, but then nothing changes.
Any suggestion?
Thanks
The one Step way ;)
old_Steps x (want_to_extrude / extruded) = new Steps
for Example:
500 x (100 / 94) = 531,914
Hello, just got my first printer and i've been having issues where the machine wont send enough filament through, so this is a great video to follow. Problem is that when i followed ur instructions to the teeth i had some issues. So when i first extruded the 100MM it only extruded 8 MM. so for the first equation should be 100 - 8 = 92, went on with the next equation 100/8 = 12.5, the current step was set to 93 so last equation should be 12.5 x 93= 1162.5. Adding this number and trying to extrude 100MM made my filament retract and actually go out of the extruder. I dont really know why this happened hoping you could shed some light.
that's not a Noob way that's the only way. great video!
could the new stepper be a 0.9 degree type? regular steppers are 1.8 degrees.
+76Richie19 to be honest, the 500 was used for this tutorial. Initially the wanhao comes with 94 steps/mm pretty much nothing was coming out lol
Where were you when i first got into printing!? i had to decipher so much content! :) Great channel
+colbster threeohtwo haha I was probably trying to figure which printer to buy :) glad it helps out :)
could you please update this to the new release of mattercontrol which does not have an eeprom check?
Someone may have already pointed this out, but, when you do your first length multiplier calculation (at about 7:00 into the video), the on-screen text uses the incorrect extrusion length, and, therefore, the calculated length multiplier is incorrect. What you're saying in the video is correct, thus it doesn't match the incorrect on-screen text.
Despite this small error, thanks for such an easy to understand method for doing something I didn't know I should be doing. 😆
Great video as always! Will definitely be doing this. I have a question, after saving to EPROM will SD card printing use the new values? As I dont want to keep the printer hooked up to my pc.
+ImmenseFox once you save to EEPROM it remains in the printer firmware memory, so no need to keep it hooked :)
you are the man im loving your channel top quality content Plus all the info and tweaks very complete without making a 3 hr vídeo out of it congrats to you keep up the good work, soon enough we will have a fan mail section in wich i would gladly participante any ways thanks for your input to the community
Thank you very much for the kind words :) i would love to have a fan mail section on the channel, in due time :)
I found it easier to control by removing Bowden tube (if available) then putting filament flush with extruder. Then you can run it in and out until it is dialed in without marking filament.
Hey how is going? I watch your videos just because you explain the stuff like is for someone that has no idea about the equipment and thats awesome for me. Do you sell stickers with your channel name?
once this is done, am I locked into using MAttercontrol forever or can i go back to Cura and find all is well?
From one noob to another noob, I'm having issues connecting to MatterControl via USB. Any tips for that? Perhaps a "How-to?"
thanks for the tutorial. I will be trying this with my new anycubic i3 mega straight out of the box. question: does this calibration change for different materials? or do they all extruded at same rate?
+Glen Childress if the diameter is the same, the extrusion is the same. However! Some materials might need higher extrusion rate just because of the way they are. Those little adjustment are done through the slicer though
That's actually really helpful. I'd be a bit too scared to mess around with gcode directly, I guess. I wouldn't want to break anything by issuing the wrong command. Using Mattercontrol for that is definitely much less error-prone, I'd say!
Thanks for the video, Joe!
+TheoRien more than welcome :) the same process can also be used for calibrating axis :)
Hi!
Did you mean that the same formula is applicable to the X, Y & Z axis, isn't it?
So, while the desired extrusion/moving length didn't match the actual length, you need to:
(desired length / actual length) * configured steps per mm = new steps per mm value
Greetings from Spain!
+Roberto Comecaramelos yes, the same formula applies to movements. You simply replace the length of extrusion with length of movement :)
Would this still be a current way to calibrate an extruder today? I am confident that my Anycubic i3 Mega S extruder is under extruding. Will this method work to calibrate this extruder? Thanks!
Yes it will :)
how would you calibrate the flow on cura? because its a percentage, instead of steps/ mm
Love it! What a great tutorial! ... Yes, I would like to see a series on "Dialing in Your Printer" or similar. :)
+Colin Klapka noted :) thanks
Wow, excellent video. I learned alot from this. Gotta check my CR-10S4.
I have a i3 Plus as well and I want to upgrade the stock hotend. do you have a video about the new extruder? How would you recommend it versus other options like the Flexion and Microswiss? Thanks.
to be completely honest i have only tried it out for the past week, it's been great so far but have yet to test it out with TPU and other flexible filaments. i don't see why it shouldn't work as good as a flexion if not better as it's the same concept. will have a video up in a little while once i've done more testing on it :)
Hello, thank you for making this video. I have a duplicator 4 running sailfish firmware. When I click the configure button next to EEPROM I get an error prompt saying "oops there is no eeprom mapping for your printer's firmware." Please advise? Thank you :)
+psych0hans to be honest I never used the duplicator 4 so I wouldn't know. However I suggest using pronterface maybe to send commands and configure it
Will this matter control work with the CR10S pro?
Yes it should
Good afternoon, my tevo tarantula pro is leaking filaments on the sides of the extruder, is too much filament being deposited? If so, how does the calibration perform? I wait and God bless.
If it's leaking around the threads of the nozzle or next to the heatbreak, probably your nozzle is not installed right. It should not butt on the heater block, but sit tightly against the heat brake. Maybe that is your problem.
I'm getting this message when I click Configure for EEProm under the hardware section in MatterControl.
"Oops! There was no eeprom mapping for your printer's firmware.
You may need to wait a minute for your printer to finish initializing."
Hi, I have a CR10, will this work with any 3D Printer ?
after doing this the extrusion multiplier should be 1?
hi jo, Could you share your matter control setting for the anet A8 ?
Hi Joe! Any z-banding calibration video coming soon?
+Javier Caste hey, it's in the works :) so will be a couple of weeks but definitely coming
awesome! Thanks Joe!
it's 2 month's now, any update? :)
59mm is actual extruded length, how come you divided 102.5?
oh yes Joe please also do more for the Wanhao about calibrating
Does the nozzle size come into this at all?
I am lost. Where did you get the 1.6949 from? I thought the length multiplier was .97 from the previous equation?
by mistake the overlay text was for the second calculation of the 100/102 which is why it displayed 0.97. the initial calculation was 100mm - 41mm = 59mm, and then you divide 100 / 59 = 1.6949. apologies for the confusion :)
I was confused too haha
thx i was like "dafuq?!" thanks @Board Gamer for asking
+itz_me_ToXIc I had a bit of a gaff there with numbers :) was a very late night
+3D Maker Noob its all good.. i'm just trying to figure out how to apply this to Octoprint and under excursion
Thats de distance, but.. what about the speed? How you calculate that?
I had an umo+ a few years ago that made sharp corners on my test cube. By default.
Now Im strugling to get my i3 mega do this.
This would be great but they don't support cr10 or cr10 mini
I need a like to how to wire my BZlTouch to my Anet A8 board. I can’t figure out how to make the pin 27 connection!!!
Excellent video! Definitely the way i would want to do it as i use matter hackers software exclusively to create my gcode.
+Randall Bourque good to know. I'm gonna be getting the mattercontrol touch when I go up to US in May :)
Hey Joe, just did this on my CR-10, and it's now dialed in, extruding exact length of filament. I'm still having issues though. Printing a 2 perimeter hollow box, with a multiplier of 1.0, the walls get way to thick, 1.12mm where they should be 0.96 (2 x 0.48). Multiplier of 0.9 the thickness is perfect, but I seem to get underextrusion on prints.
So seems I have the choice of calibration being perfect but tendency of underextruding. Or going higher, where prints show less signs of underextrusion, but having the walls to thick causing some things to fuse... Any suggestions?
+Karsten are you using simplify3D? Make sure the layer thickness is set to 0.4 on manual instead of auto
I am using s3d with auto 0.48. But to my knowledge, setting the width 0.40 will just lower extrusion accordingly, and put the lines that closer. So if I have the issue of 2 perimeters not being 2 x 0.48 now, will setting 0.40 not just give me the same relative error.?
+Karsten set the multiplier to 1.0 and extrusion width to manual at 0.4. If it's calibrated, it should print just right. Had the same issue on the Sigma when I changed to bongtech extruder that's why I'm suggesting it
Started it 2 mins ago :-)
Same result. Width seems to be off with same percentage.
Simple and concise explanation.. Great video! Keep it coming.. :)
+Arvind cheers buddy :)
+Arvind cheers buddy :)
Dude, I picked your video because I saw 2 of your other ones that were good. But this one, oh boy. There's a lot wrong here. The math is wrong, the overlays are wrong, you're using the cleaning procedure to extrude... what happened? You either should delete this video or redo it.
M503 ;grab current E value from the M92 line printed out
G92 E0 ;reset extruder _EVERYTIME_
G1 E100 F90 ;extrude 100mm at 90mm
; use G1 with F to use a sane speed
; unload is WAY too fast (it's meant for cleaning) and you will almost always come up short of 100mm (unless you use PLA and set your hot end blazing at like 300c).
; then plug in your old E value along with whatever you measured to get your new E value
; $New_E_Value = $Old_E_Value * ( $Want_To_Extrude / $Actually_Extruded)
; or any variation of that simple formula ie. $New_E_Value = ($Old_E_Value * $Want_to_Extrude) / $Actually_Extruded ;
M92 E$New_E_Value
M500 ;save
;
very easy! extruded mm and extruder steps are proportional
can you do this tutorial for simplify 3D?
Any anet a8 videos coming soon?
+Austin Boni yep, should have the first one coming out next week or so for so, kind of like initial thoughts
I would be interested I a video for the other axis please.
Son of a... I was underextruding. Thanks for the video, I've been meaning to do this and have been putting it off.
haha, gl;ad i could help :)
This is the easier way? Seems more complicated than the other videos I've seen.
Awesome video! Helped me a lot!
+Katkarapu glad to hear it :)
Fantastic video.
Very Helpful! Thank you so much ! From a newb:)
Joe, the mic is paying off good sir!
+Lucky 13 Vinyl hehe, slowly but surely production will keep improving :) thank you buddy
this is just brilliant
thank you :)
Awesome! Just the video I need now that I'm in the middle of building my Prusa i3 mk2. =) Thank you.
Fredrik Bärg awesome! You're gonna have yourself an epic weekend I guess hehe
I will indeed. =)
That 3d printer should be spot on out of the box or after assembly. Dont play around its firmware.
Its actually not spot on for whatever reason.
I also recently did a video on this because I had to adjust mine as well and the 'new' number was quite a bit off from the factory default. Not exactly sure why this was the case but it was. I used Pronterface though you can really do this directly from the machine's control panel if you want to manually extrude the filament. Otherwise its the same process / math to get your new e-step value.
Nillabean completely agree. I think it needs surgical precision to get the numbers correctly. And discrepancy I tend to use extrusion multiplier
Subscribed!!!!!
@2:44 what are carculations? Ha Ha, all in good fun mate!
for sure way more
another great video joe. :)
+Turenkarn cheers buddy :)
joe i don't suppose you have meshmixer there. i so need to get back the older version. version 3. the update version has removed one the functions i use. and i can't carry on with my builds. :( i tried to find links to download the older version. :(
+Turenkarn I do have it, no idea what version it is though. Will check when I'm back home
its ok joe i managed to sort it. someone on the anycubic facebook page sent me it. and then i got an email also from autodesk saying The auto-repair functionality has been moved to the Inspector tool (under Analysis). Hope this helps!. so will check that later. :)
You mean the old way of calibration. This is how you calibrated back when prusa first released his first Mendel.
at 7:00 you displayed the wrong calculation.
Thanks for this tipp though
+TheLennard23 :( so easy and I still mess up editing lol thanks for letting me know though
@@3DMakerNoob Joe... ive done 30+ years in IT as a consultant and still bugger up the simplest of tasks. You are making a massive difference to newbies like me. Thanks Mate!! from UK
Update. Anycubic kossel linear plus I checked was extruding 96%.... Naughty kossel!! 😀. So I adjusted. Now it's bang on!!! You can't quantify the massive help that your channel and some of the other good contributors provide... People helping people. From all over the world every race religion even different football supporters lol😝... Thanks mate
Well done subbed!
Thank you :)
THX :)
welcome :)
This is how you calibrate the extruder, there isn't any other way I know.
Jeffrey Drake the most common way is by sending commands through repetier or pronterface. M92 codes and such. Could get tricky, this is just more straight forward
Almost all interfaces, pronterface and s3d included where you can tell it to extrude a set amount. One thing I usually prefer to do is do it without the hot end attached, so you can test retraction and extrusion at the same time.
good luck to those that has a black filament and a black marker :)
Hmmmm…….that was something I thought about some weeks ago when I bought my E3 Pro...……...someone should design and market a filament feed rate indicator that measures the amount of filament that flows into the extruder in a minute etc. I also have to wonder why it would not be better to have an adjustable speed control for the stepper motor to adjust the filament feed rate. Then you could adjust the filament feed rate on the move according to the feed rate indicator. Over or under extrusion would be infinitely variable and corrected as needed.
Honestly this is no different to what Tom said/did...well, guess there's no harm having it said many times :)
+Linda Marika I think at some point we will all repeat each other in some way. We just all give it our own personal touch :) mine comes with hair ;) hehe
if u decrese the number ur prints will cost less :D
+Lerbyn lol not arguing with your logic lol
yes, because they will have less quality))
Millimeters, cmon it should be inches, yards, feet, miles, gallons or whatever than millimeters..
Centimeters, meters, kilometers and litres ;) maybe cups as well hehe
Honestly, you should have done this video correctly. You should have explained in actual Gcode or adjusting it on a printer. Doing it 2-3 times makes it very simple to get the process down. Your program isn't what everybody else uses and what you've done is just make it difficult. the only difference between what you did and what you would do in gcode is the extra commands you sent to save it and load it, that's really it. Although editing the firmware is still simple it is a few extra "what have I gotten myself into" steps that most people shouldn't need to get into.
+Joey duncan and an alternative process will come in due course. This is one of many way to calibrate an extruder which ultimately works. You can walk from A to B in many different ways and still get there. If it works then there is no harm, gcode can be intimidating to many beginners and there is no need for it to be. I don't want to risk giving out the wrong information before I have mastered something in the best way I know how. As you said, the only difference from what I did or "could" have done is the gcode commands. So I'll cover both and still cover everything
Joey duncan I've checked with matterhackers and they confirmed it's the same exact thing, the only difference is that the "codes" in mattercontrol are sent automatically rather than the user entering them manually. Works exactly the same way in technical terms, just a more user friendly way :)
It's changing software is all, that can be exhausting enough, you have to resetup the printer for THAT software and it may not work for their printer. In the time it takes to download and install that software alone you would be done with three simple commands: M500,M501,M503 (not in order)Or if you can do it on your printer you just have to adjust it ands remember to save which is even simpler. But I do admit it's not simple, calibration should be a focus for ALL printer software and firmware versions.
ptfe tube huwa sparepart mur nehhih minn hem hahahahahaaaaaa
+patrick4485 kemm il titan aero beta wehhilt int fuq duplicator i3 plus?
3D Maker Noob qas kelli ghalfejn kemm ilni nbiegh Wanhao hawn Malta. imma ptfe tube qieghed replacement ghal dak li hemm diga gewwa. Wanhao i3 plus printjajt flex filament just right out of the box.
patrick4485 ptfe hemm tnejn, wahda ghat throat u ohra ghal intake gol gear. Prosit tal bejh, jalla tibqa sejjer hekk. Missek tkellem lill angus ghax laqqas hu ma rnexxielu jiprintja bin ninaflex fuq tieghu. Ghallmu kif
3D Maker Noob kummenti apparti. Issa ahdem kif tkompli 3D print wara li jinqata d-dawl. Utli hafna titghallimha, editting tal-code... jien ghamiltha u tifranka hafna kliem hazin u telf ta materjal. Keep it up Joe.