How do ya'll think we should test these arrows for structural integrity? Or other tests you'd like to see? .... Also two weeks out from our WA turkey opener. Dan has been constantly tuning his bow to get ready for it... lol - Tim
Yes please do. Structural integrity, perfect arrow flight and super sharp broadheads are the three most important components to penetration and killing game. You could even do various distances up to say 70 or 80 yards, even though most realistic shots are under 50. Perhaps some slo mo video too
So I have a short draw length 26 to 27 also a very short arrow and have been trying to figure out how I can increase my FOC just got a new Mathew’s V3x that will be here soon my Old arrows where 308 Gr thanks for all the tips I need all the help I can get it’s been tuff thanks from Oregon
Super glue is just that- the same chemicals. No need to waste money on archery brand name glue. Also epoxy can be softened with heat. Use a hair dryer to heat up the shaft. Not too hot. Or Put a field tip in the insert and heat it up with a flame. The heat will migrate into the insert and heat up the epoxy. With pliers grab the tip and twist gently. If the epoxy is warm enough it will release the insert. I immediately take a pistol bore brush and clean out the shaft.
I have always been told that... Was even told that from an ER doc when asked if we could of super glued a buddys tiny cut.. He said store bought was basically the same as surgical grade. Just surgical grade had to jump through more hoops to prove it was surgical grade, and charge way more of course. - TC
It doesn’t creat a vacuum but rather a pressure chamber. The air that’s trapped inside gets pressurized at you push in the insert and the compressed air will try to escape pushing out some of the glue or if it’s a looser fitting insert the insert can be pushed out some.
I'm a little surprised that you trust the spine alignment marking on the arrow. In my experience and in the reading I have done on AT, they are not very accurate. I always do my own spine alignment before fetching. Great video though. Tink, Tink.
Thought the same thing. I like that they do it so I have a reference point on my VAP TKO’s but that doesn’t mean I trust it. In fact Inside Out Precision just did a video showing that the spine tester isn’t a good indication of dynamic spine.
Tim, I like the VAP durability more than RIP (thicker wall on VAP) and the penetration of the VAP is unmatched! Both fly great but I group better at 100 yards with VAP. The new 2021 Shok TL outsert are much improved over the previous design.
Been shooting the TKO’s for a while now and loved them,, until now, just picked up a few Vap SS and these arrows are amazing!! Hit hard, shot both into a couple sheets of 1/2 inch plywood at 70lb draw weight to see which ones hold up better and the TKO’s broke first.
I have some axis 5mm 400 spine. Question, would a guy be able to add 50 grains of brass and 100 grain head. And be fine with that spine . My draw is at 26.5 and 56 to 60 pound draw. And would a guy need to bare shaft the arrows if they r fleched already
So we have almost the same draw length, I’m probably a 1/4 shorter than yours. I shoot a Vap TKO 350 spine but I shoot 65-68 pounds. What length would you cut your arrows? The shorter you cut them, the stiffer they become. I shoot a 27 inch arrow but will probably drop down a little bit in length with the ethics components that I ordered. I would suggest cutting your arrows about an inch or an inch and a half past your rest. Doing that will make those 400s work just fine. Also cut a little off the back. Straightens and stiffens the spine
They do look stout... just based on research it sounds like anything that sticks a bit out of the arrow will eventually bend.. with that said it should definitely still beef up the front end of the arrow - TC
Great video on components. I cheated and bought the Sirius Gemini .204 diameter .350 spine with 75-grain half jacket inserts. I'm running 125-grain Magnus buzz cuts with three 3-inch vanes on 3% right helical. Blew right through my first buck back in October of this year and it went through the vitals so fast it left not a single trace of hair or blood. That was my only complaint after finding it piled up 30 yards away. Taking your time with your own arrows really makes a difference.
You guys all use the word vacuum when what your talking about is the opposite. Pressure will cause it to unseat and push out. A vacuum will create suction. Yes me spelling and grammar is awful.
I have recently built a dozen Rip TKO v1’s w a 250 spine with the Iron Will system and I really like it. They hit hard and spin/fly great. Using the Iron Will field points for sight in, my broadheads impact in the same spot. I can’t recommend the IW system enough. Levi Morgan says that anything over 2-3 deg helical will parachute out past 50yds. But, I still run a 5 deg L helical as I do not intend on shooting animals past 60yds. I may change and fletch a few differently this spring to mess around with. Great vid, keep’em coming.
Hey yes - I've heard that old saying too.. and very much trust World class archers like Levi.. I just wonder if that's old technology or something? Because Dan and I have tested them extensively out to distance, and consistently see our best groups with the helical... Also MFJJ believes in the science of them, he could explain in more detail - best TC
@@ElkShape I have not seen a difference at distance either and will stay with my 5 deg. Bill from IW also states that the more helical that you can obtain, will aid in broadhead flight. Which at the end of the day, is what is most important during a hunt and shot on an animal. To me at least. Thanks man, you guys are putting out great content.
Easton axis 5mm. I personally don't use epoxy. The blue glue is a money saver. If you damage your arrows the interest can be removed and used on another arrow with a little heat and pliers, the epoxy made it to much work for me..it was impossible to get out of the shafts...and trust me setting those shafts on fire are super smelly. I used the the Iron will complete set up and those interests are not cheap. I personally never had a failure using the hot glue method.
@@3rty4our I actually have. I can't verify for sure but it seems to have saved a few arrows. I have only lost one set up and it was a bad shot in wood. It's like anything that you try the first time. I learned more is better with hot glue. The trade off of salvaging the front end components after a robin hood or breaking an arrow has been worth the other little issues of using the epoxy. When you epoxy and break an arrow you basically lose everything that epoxy in. Hope that helps and shot straight!
I always tip and tail my vanes as well with the same fletch tight...i wonder if a 4 fletch would work with that same jig? I only run a 2 degree offset but like ya said a Bitzenburger jig is amazing but also more time consuming going one by one each vane
Tim sir, which components did you decide on? and why? Im trying to decide if i want to try the Iron Wills, i currently use the ethics on VAP TKO 300s, would love to here your deciding imput
Recently built some Vap SS using the ethic archery inserts based off your last video. It actually saved my arrow after it impacted a wall and just bent the sleeve. Also, recently picked up the ez fletch and kind of kick myself for not doing it sooner.
Quick question, where is the spine alignment line in relation to the vane? Do you fletch the vane so the tip of the vane is in line with it? Or do you fletch the vane so about the middle of the vane is in line with it? Thank you in advance, big fan of the channel!
So just getting into arrow building myself, I have question regarding helical stuff. I have watched videos saying the more helical the better and then I have watched videos that you don't want alot if helical do to parachute aspect at longer distance. So what is the best way to go?
I am trying out the Victory VAP SS elites 300 spine with the ethics Stainless steel 130gr and 125gr cutthroat single bevel. I did use the JB weld. So far they fly lights out at 20yds still haven’t been able to really shoot them post shoulder surgery.
Hey Bryce how have they performed for you I’ve been thinking about getting some of the VAP SSes with 125 grain Magnus Black Hornet Ser Razors with a 100 grain insert. Have they been worth it for you also what’s the draw length poundage since you are using the 300 grain spines
@@haydenpoorman9752 so far awesome. They are digitally spined and matched weight within a half a grain. I have them cut at 28 1/8” carbon to carbon. My draw length is 28” and right now I am 50#dw eventually will get to 55#. I had shoulder surgery last November so trying to get my strength back. I have no idea on the speed. Where I shoot I put a 2x4 under my target to level. I was shooting with a 125gr cutthroat single bevel and hit the wood on the 2” side. They did what they were supposed to do and split it. Wish I would have taken a picture. Had to use my hatchet to finish splitting the wood to remove the broadhead. When I got it out I measured it to 2 3/8” deep. Arrow still in good shape and very minimal damage to the broadhead. Nothing that a little sharpening Won’t fix
I would like to see the new 4mm Axis LR done up and tested. Also I agree with using cold melt as opposed to epoxy, I have tried removing HIT inserts that have been epoxied and it’s damn near impossible!!!
Little confused he said most of their arrows clocked to the left. So does that mean he has certain arrows that clock right. ? I figured that if your string twist is what causes your arrow spinning directions wouldn’t it stay the same? Or would certain arrows spin different then other arrows?
Problem with solid insert and nock is, if nock plugs the shaft and you push the solid insert in, the air pressure inside the shaft will push the insert out when you remove the tool. Because of the glue, not all the way but possibly some. Might be good idea to check with the tool that the one insert you put in with the nock in is still in correct depth.
That is why he pulled the nock out, to keep that pressure from pushing the insert out. I think it best to remove all nocks before you glue anything, then install them - not after. Also, to check depth, it is good to wipe the hit insert tool off, spin it, and reinsert to check that the insert did not move. That is what Easton and Iron Will recommend.
I asked the guy from Ethics Archery what he recommends, the SS post/insert cut to the shortest length vs AL left at full length. Surprisingly he said the AL at full length was better, he said leaving the insert at full length increased the strength and reduced the leverage that the broadhead had on the shaft. Just thought I would mention it.
Am looking at building some Black Eagle arrows. But for elk, should I use X-impacts or Renagrade? Lighted mocks & 100g broadhead of course. Lastly, what vane size, length & spin for most accuracy at longer distances?
I recently bought the Rip TKO but wasn’t sure what size AAE vanes I should use? What size vanes do y’all recommend for the Rip TKO? Also I am a 4 fletch kind of person so want to make sure there is adequate space in between. Any advice/tips?
I’ve been using the black eagle rampage arrows with their focos system for components. I like the rampage cause the .250 spine is lighter then the axis in .260spine. Let’s me use that focos system which is 100grns total and my broadhead of choice
I literally just put in 2 of Ethics Archery spinning inserts in my arrows 10 mins ago. Didn’t even know you guys were doing a build series with them. Testing my old set up vs +100g vs +150g
Thanks for sharing this l have been thinking about building my own arrows. I believe those are the vanes that I want to go with. I have also been debating between 3 and 4 vanes and which degree of helical. I know that if I want to go with a single bevel that I would have to go right helical no matter what my arrows would clock.
Good stuff!! I use exact same Iron Will setup on Easton Injexion 330s with 75 gr insert, the collar and 125 gr Iron Will solid. 532 gr total weight. Shot a cow and she tipped over after 30 yds. Works for me!!!
With the easy fletch, what is it set at as far as the distance the vane is set at from the throat of the nock? Through my research, the general consensus seems to be that 1 1/8” is best.
Yes, if you don’t glue the collar, the pressure created from screwing in the field point or broadhead into the insert holds the collar firmly in place.
Tim, I also shoot the RIP TKO Elites. I had a lot of trouble with the AAE max stealth sticking to them (even with AAE max bond kit) I swapped to the bohning heat vanes with a 4" wrap. What is nice about this is the max stealth vane is roughly 8 grains (8.5 average) which adds 24-26grains in the back. Where as the bohning heat vane is 6 grains and a 4" wrap is only 4 grains giving you a total of 22grains in the back. I know MFJJ doesn't like wraps because of the added weight in the back and decrease of FOC, but the bohning heat with a 4" wrap actually helps FOC slightly. Plus removing a wrap is much easier then removing vanes so it makes tinkering easy.
Very cool - we have had good luck with the AAE vanes, and now have an elkshape model so they are a mainstay.. But have not experienced trouble gluing them. All I've typically done is clean the shaft (lol) and then use the primer pen and super glue.. Glad your setup is working well! - TC
I have thread wax that comes in a chap stick tube which helps a lot but ever since I fletched left helical last season my field points want to start unscrewing in the target. Haven’t lost anything yet but have to tighten them every time which is a pain
Hey Tim have you thought about insert tuning as well?? Making sure that the insert spins true with a broad head before epoxy them in, little harder for hit inserts, What is MFJJ opinion on that?
@@ElkShape Tim, I don't need you to be perfect, I just need you to be better. Lol I'm just givin you a hard time brother, love the tink vids. Keep up the good work!
Day six broadheads and components....never heard of them and im a gear nut/ tinkerer. Trying to find which components im going to use for my VAP SS arrows...i dont want anything crazy FOC. Im wanting around 50/60 grains up front max for jus the insert weights
@@NashJohnson774 went on day six to check components out and they dont offer much, and very little info on what dimensions and what will fit what shaft. Trying to find something better than the stock VAP 50 grains that my VAP SS 300 spine came with. But with ethics i also dont want to sand anything and theyre components are very heavy when you step up to steel or titanium. Looking to stay right at 50/60 grains insert/collar but want stronger than aluminum still. And iron wills inserts and collars wont fit my ID/OD Vap SS
Ive found the Iron Will collars should be expoxied on. I've lost two Iron Will HIT inserts and collars in a 365 target bareshaft tuning at 20 yards. After expoxying the collars I've not had any such issues.
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How do ya'll think we should test these arrows for structural integrity? Or other tests you'd like to see? .... Also two weeks out from our WA turkey opener. Dan has been constantly tuning his bow to get ready for it... lol - Tim
get some ballistic gel.
I’d like to see what they do to a cinder block, but would hate to see you throw money away too.
Yes please do. Structural integrity, perfect arrow flight and super sharp broadheads are the three most important components to penetration and killing game.
You could even do various distances up to say 70 or 80 yards, even though most realistic shots are under 50. Perhaps some slo mo video too
@@voxpopuli905 hmm 🤔 interesting question 🙋♂️
So I have a short draw length 26 to 27 also a very short arrow and have been trying to figure out how I can increase my FOC just got a new Mathew’s V3x that will be here soon my Old arrows where 308 Gr thanks for all the tips I need all the help I can get it’s been tuff thanks from Oregon
Gotta clamp the bottom of the EZ fletch too! Don’t forget about that.
Was going to make the same comment, glad someone else pointed that out since it can impact the placement of vanes on the shaft
typically do. just spaced it making a video.. a lot of things going on - TC
@@ElkShape looked crooked in the video? Does it align correctly on the spine if you don't engage the spring clamp?
@@ElkShape I figured as much! I’d be a space case making videos. Ha
Super glue is just that- the same chemicals. No need to waste money on archery brand name glue. Also epoxy can be softened with heat. Use a hair dryer to heat up the shaft. Not too hot. Or Put a field tip in the insert and heat it up with a flame. The heat will migrate into the insert and heat up the epoxy. With pliers grab the tip and twist gently. If the epoxy is warm enough it will release the insert. I immediately take a pistol bore brush and clean out the shaft.
I have always been told that... Was even told that from an ER doc when asked if we could of super glued a buddys tiny cut.. He said store bought was basically the same as surgical grade. Just surgical grade had to jump through more hoops to prove it was surgical grade, and charge way more of course. - TC
It doesn’t creat a vacuum but rather a pressure chamber. The air that’s trapped inside gets pressurized at you push in the insert and the compressed air will try to escape pushing out some of the glue or if it’s a looser fitting insert the insert can be pushed out some.
Like to see black eagle deep impact arrows with there s.s inserts
I'm a little surprised that you trust the spine alignment marking on the arrow. In my experience and in the reading I have done on AT, they are not very accurate. I always do my own spine alignment before fetching. Great video though. Tink, Tink.
Thought the same thing. I like that they do it so I have a reference point on my VAP TKO’s but that doesn’t mean I trust it. In fact Inside Out Precision just did a video showing that the spine tester isn’t a good indication of dynamic spine.
Guys do some builds on the victory Vap TKO if you can. Especially with the ethics archery components
I agree! I switched from RIP TKO to VAP TKO and won’t look back!
Hey Matt - what did you like better? - TC
Tim, I like the VAP durability more than RIP (thicker wall on VAP) and the penetration of the VAP is unmatched! Both fly great but I group better at 100 yards with VAP. The new 2021 Shok TL outsert are much improved over the previous design.
@@Northwest.Archer the caps hit like a freight train as well
Been shooting the TKO’s for a while now and loved them,, until now, just picked up a few Vap SS and these arrows are amazing!! Hit hard, shot both into a couple sheets of 1/2 inch plywood at 70lb draw weight to see which ones hold up better and the TKO’s broke first.
When you say the HIT inserts are similar you should really say they are the same since ironwill got licensed to use the design
I have some axis 5mm 400 spine. Question, would a guy be able to add 50 grains of brass and 100 grain head. And be fine with that spine . My draw is at 26.5 and 56 to 60 pound draw. And would a guy need to bare shaft the arrows if they r fleched already
So we have almost the same draw length, I’m probably a 1/4 shorter than yours. I shoot a Vap TKO 350 spine but I shoot 65-68 pounds. What length would you cut your arrows? The shorter you cut them, the stiffer they become. I shoot a 27 inch arrow but will probably drop down a little bit in length with the ethics components that I ordered. I would suggest cutting your arrows about an inch or an inch and a half past your rest. Doing that will make those 400s work just fine. Also cut a little off the back. Straightens and stiffens the spine
My 400s r about 25 and 3/4. Its pretty stiff. Was trying to get to 425 to 430 grains on arrow weight. Did pretty good with it last yr . On whitetails
No parachuting with the extreme mini max helical?
Sometimes at long range it seems, wind definitely adds to it. Checkout one of our TAC vids for arrow flight
Have you tried the Victory 75 grain SS/AL Taper Lock inserts for those shafts? They go over the last 1/2” of the shaft, they look pretty stout also.
They do look stout... just based on research it sounds like anything that sticks a bit out of the arrow will eventually bend.. with that said it should definitely still beef up the front end of the arrow - TC
6.5 match grade 340 spin would be cool with 100 grain broadhead, please.
Great video on components. I cheated and bought the Sirius Gemini .204 diameter .350 spine with 75-grain half jacket inserts. I'm running 125-grain Magnus buzz cuts with three 3-inch vanes on 3% right helical. Blew right through my first buck back in October of this year and it went through the vitals so fast it left not a single trace of hair or blood. That was my only complaint after finding it piled up 30 yards away. Taking your time with your own arrows really makes a difference.
You guys all use the word vacuum when what your talking about is the opposite. Pressure will cause it to unseat and push out. A vacuum will create suction. Yes me spelling and grammar is awful.
I have recently built a dozen Rip TKO v1’s w a 250 spine with the Iron Will system and I really like it. They hit hard and spin/fly great. Using the Iron Will field points for sight in, my broadheads impact in the same spot. I can’t recommend the IW system enough. Levi Morgan says that anything over 2-3 deg helical will parachute out past 50yds. But, I still run a 5 deg L helical as I do not intend on shooting animals past 60yds. I may change and fletch a few differently this spring to mess around with. Great vid, keep’em coming.
Hey yes - I've heard that old saying too.. and very much trust World class archers like Levi.. I just wonder if that's old technology or something? Because Dan and I have tested them extensively out to distance, and consistently see our best groups with the helical... Also MFJJ believes in the science of them, he could explain in more detail - best TC
@@ElkShape I have not seen a difference at distance either and will stay with my 5 deg. Bill from IW also states that the more helical that you can obtain, will aid in broadhead flight. Which at the end of the day, is what is most important during a hunt and shot on an animal. To me at least. Thanks man, you guys are putting out great content.
Easton axis 5mm. I personally don't use epoxy. The blue glue is a money saver. If you damage your arrows the interest can be removed and used on another arrow with a little heat and pliers, the epoxy made it to much work for me..it was impossible to get out of the shafts...and trust me setting those shafts on fire are super smelly. I used the the Iron will complete set up and those interests are not cheap. I personally never had a failure using the hot glue method.
I epoxy but I was considering changing to hot glue for your same reasons. Have you had any inserts become loose or pull out?
@@3rty4our I actually have. I can't verify for sure but it seems to have saved a few arrows. I have only lost one set up and it was a bad shot in wood. It's like anything that you try the first time. I learned more is better with hot glue. The trade off of salvaging the front end components after a robin hood or breaking an arrow has been worth the other little issues of using the epoxy. When you epoxy and break an arrow you basically lose everything that epoxy in. Hope that helps and shot straight!
What was your overall weiggt?
Should try out the Victory RIP XV 250s. Places are supposed to have them in stock April this year
Good morning! Love starting my work day with something interesting to think about! Keep it up!
Yep, this is a great way to start the day... ABT!!!
You should definitely tinker with some 3 inch shield cut vanes
I always tip and tail my vanes as well with the same fletch tight...i wonder if a 4 fletch would work with that same jig? I only run a 2 degree offset but like ya said a Bitzenburger jig is amazing but also more time consuming going one by one each vane
VAP
Hey what nocks do you use and also field points would help a lot use the same arrows
group them at 80 yards. Want to see how that strong helical groups at 80 yards vs a 2 deg offset.
Helical test ??
@@ElkShape yes for long distance. I’ve heard bad things about strong helical out at those ranges but never tried it myself
Tim sir, which components did you decide on? and why? Im trying to decide if i want to try the Iron Wills, i currently use the ethics on VAP TKO 300s, would love to here your deciding imput
Iron wills are great.. gold tip also makes a half out that we like a lot
Recently built some Vap SS using the ethic archery inserts based off your last video. It actually saved my arrow after it impacted a wall and just bent the sleeve. Also, recently picked up the ez fletch and kind of kick myself for not doing it sooner.
Did you have to sand down the arrow any to fit the sleeves? I’ve seen some heat the sleeve up to make it slide on easier.
@@joshdennis8841 Sorry didn't see your reply until now, yes I did sand on them to help get them closer then put a little heat on them to finish it off
all my favorite arrow builds are top secret in nature.
Word up !
Quick question, where is the spine alignment line in relation to the vane? Do you fletch the vane so the tip of the vane is in line with it? Or do you fletch the vane so about the middle of the vane is in line with it? Thank you in advance, big fan of the channel!
I did the top in alignment.. but I am far from an archery expert.. just a guy who likes to shoot my bow - TC
Thank you! I love shooting too.
Have you done black eagle deep impact with high foc's?
Why did you guys stop using wraps, FOC? I actually just started using wraps because I hate cleaning glue off the shafts to refletch.
Yes.. FOC.. still don't hate on them though.. they are good - TC
So just getting into arrow building myself, I have question regarding helical stuff. I have watched videos saying the more helical the better and then I have watched videos that you don't want alot if helical do to parachute aspect at longer distance. So what is the best way to go?
We have found this amount of helical to be great - TC
I am trying out the Victory VAP SS elites 300 spine with the ethics Stainless steel 130gr and 125gr cutthroat single bevel. I did use the JB weld. So far they fly lights out at 20yds still haven’t been able to really shoot them post shoulder surgery.
Hey Bryce how have they performed for you I’ve been thinking about getting some of the VAP SSes with 125 grain Magnus Black Hornet Ser Razors with a 100 grain insert. Have they been worth it for you also what’s the draw length poundage since you are using the 300 grain spines
@@haydenpoorman9752 so far awesome. They are digitally spined and matched weight within a half a grain. I have them cut at 28 1/8” carbon to carbon. My draw length is 28” and right now I am 50#dw eventually will get to 55#. I had shoulder surgery last November so trying to get my strength back. I have no idea on the speed. Where I shoot I put a 2x4 under my target to level. I was shooting with a 125gr cutthroat single bevel and hit the wood on the 2” side. They did what they were supposed to do and split it. Wish I would have taken a picture. Had to use my hatchet to finish splitting the wood to remove the broadhead. When I got it out I measured it to 2 3/8” deep. Arrow still in good shape and very minimal damage to the broadhead. Nothing that a little sharpening Won’t fix
I would like to see the new 4mm Axis LR done up and tested. Also I agree with using cold melt as opposed to epoxy, I have tried removing HIT inserts that have been epoxied and it’s damn near impossible!!!
What this guy said. I used Axis LR this last year. Great arrow but would like to see it up against this TKO.
Try some bishop arrows. I have no clue who can afford them.
What’s the cut of your arrows , with a 27inch drawl length ?
Test the nexxus bow hunting arrows. You won’t look back.
Thank Dog... New Elk Shape video!
Just as I was finishing tinkering with Stabs....
ABT
I had horrible success with the bohing fletch glue
Little confused he said most of their arrows clocked to the left. So does that mean he has certain arrows that clock right. ? I figured that if your string twist is what causes your arrow spinning directions wouldn’t it stay the same? Or would certain arrows spin different then other arrows?
They clock left
Hello Tim will mini ez fletch fit for vap tko 4mm
How about carbon express maxima reds?
Problem with solid insert and nock is, if nock plugs the shaft and you push the solid insert in, the air pressure inside the shaft will push the insert out when you remove the tool. Because of the glue, not all the way but possibly some. Might be good idea to check with the tool that the one insert you put in with the nock in is still in correct depth.
That is why he pulled the nock out, to keep that pressure from pushing the insert out. I think it best to remove all nocks before you glue anything, then install them - not after. Also, to check depth, it is good to wipe the hit insert tool off, spin it, and reinsert to check that the insert did not move. That is what Easton and Iron Will recommend.
@@tsnellyville this 👆👍
@@ElkShape Ah, looked like the insert went in before removing nocks.. Want those RIP TKO's but no european importer carries them for some reason :(
Love the videos!! Help get through the off season, when does spring bear open for you guys? we opened up today
Good luck bud!
I asked the guy from Ethics Archery what he recommends, the SS post/insert cut to the shortest length vs AL left at full length. Surprisingly he said the AL at full length was better, he said leaving the insert at full length increased the strength and reduced the leverage that the broadhead had on the shaft. Just thought I would mention it.
Had the same conversation with him, appreciate your input - TC
That’s what I do as well. Full length AL post for strength and stainless outsert for the same reason.
Am looking at building some Black Eagle arrows. But for elk, should I use X-impacts or Renagrade? Lighted mocks & 100g broadhead of course. Lastly, what vane size, length & spin for most accuracy at longer distances?
I recently bought the Rip TKO but wasn’t sure what size AAE vanes I should use? What size vanes do y’all recommend for the Rip TKO? Also I am a 4 fletch kind of person so want to make sure there is adequate space in between. Any advice/tips?
How do you tell which way the arrows are spinning without the fletching (to decide left or right helical jig)?
Shoot into a target 3 ft away with a bareshaft and see which was the arrow is beginning to rotate.
Howd you get .267 sleeves?? They don't have them on the website. I hate sanding and these and 5mm axis I've had to sand cuz they send .262
I LOVE those shafts
Why do you put the fletchings on the arrow so far away from the nock? Just curious.
Iron will broadheads are the best on the market!
Looking forward to tinkering with them - TC
Don’t you have to release the bottom on your ez fletch?
Also it makes pressure, not vacuum
I'm curious what yall think about Killn Stix arrows
I’ve been using the black eagle rampage arrows with their focos system for components. I like the rampage cause the .250 spine is lighter then the axis in .260spine. Let’s me use that focos system which is 100grns total and my broadhead of choice
I literally just put in 2 of Ethics Archery spinning inserts in my arrows 10 mins ago. Didn’t even know you guys were doing a build series with them.
Testing my old set up vs +100g vs +150g
Thanks for sharing this l have been thinking about building my own arrows. I believe those are the vanes that I want to go with. I have also been debating between 3 and 4 vanes and which degree of helical. I know that if I want to go with a single bevel that I would have to go right helical no matter what my arrows would clock.
Good stuff!! I use exact same Iron Will setup on Easton Injexion 330s with 75 gr insert, the collar and 125 gr Iron Will solid. 532 gr total weight. Shot a cow and she tipped over after 30 yds. Works for me!!!
With the easy fletch, what is it set at as far as the distance the vane is set at from the throat of the nock? Through my research, the general consensus seems to be that 1 1/8” is best.
GT pierce platinum. Try em
Heard good things!
What size did you get for the ethics archery insert? I am building some rip tkos and wanting to get those inserts but don't know which size to get.
Guess I didn't watch far enough in. They fit that arrow well then? Trying to find out peoples opinion on them.
What was the two part epoxy you used called. Love the videos.
where’d you get your arrow mold , where you put your fletching in ?
What nocks do you use? I’m new to lighted nocks any recommendations for a micro diameter shaft arrows?
You might’ve already got the knocks but nocturnals in the G size should work great for your micro diameters
How do I know what to use. left or right helical???
Shoot a bareshaft arrow into a target at ~3-5ft and see which direction it rotates.
So.... does the field point anchor the oversert to the shaft via the insert?
Yes, if you don’t glue the collar, the pressure created from screwing in the field point or broadhead into the insert holds the collar firmly in place.
@@tsnellyville thank you.
@@HawgHunter63 what he said 👍👍
@@ElkShape thank you
Bohning Platinum is the best all around glue for fletching an all gluing.
Try Bob Smith Industries BSI. Super glue, sticks everything to shafts and is a gel too!
Why do you use a left helical?
👍🏻👍🏻
Tim, I also shoot the RIP TKO Elites. I had a lot of trouble with the AAE max stealth sticking to them (even with AAE max bond kit) I swapped to the bohning heat vanes with a 4" wrap. What is nice about this is the max stealth vane is roughly 8 grains (8.5 average) which adds 24-26grains in the back. Where as the bohning heat vane is 6 grains and a 4" wrap is only 4 grains giving you a total of 22grains in the back.
I know MFJJ doesn't like wraps because of the added weight in the back and decrease of FOC, but the bohning heat with a 4" wrap actually helps FOC slightly. Plus removing a wrap is much easier then removing vanes so it makes tinkering easy.
Very cool - we have had good luck with the AAE vanes, and now have an elkshape model so they are a mainstay.. But have not experienced trouble gluing them. All I've typically done is clean the shaft (lol) and then use the primer pen and super glue.. Glad your setup is working well! - TC
Try to use 600-800 grit sand paper on the arrow wrap, just slightly "sanding"
them, and wipe it with isopropyl alcohol. works for me so far.
Gove us the field points reviews
Do you have tips on keeping the field tip on tight? I usually have to keeping tightening mine after pulling them out of any target.
Trying using a tiny bit of string wax
I have thread wax that comes in a chap stick tube which helps a lot but ever since I fletched left helical last season my field points want to start unscrewing in the target. Haven’t lost anything yet but have to tighten them every time which is a pain
Hey Tim have you thought about insert tuning as well?? Making sure that the insert spins true with a broad head before epoxy them in, little harder for hit inserts,
What is MFJJ opinion on that?
Where can I get those ethics archery arrow sleeves?
You can order them directly from Ethics Archery
At first I had trouble with moving to the AAE max stealth vane's..... And now I know why...lol
no primer?
Even with primer I’ve had them rip off in thick brush so I went back to blazers
@@NashJohnson774 some arrows they have trouble, and some won't come off no matter what,..!.?. ¿.¡.¿
@@ThePatriotParadox I’m using VAP TKO’s which are almost identical to the arrows he’s using in the video, but hopefully it’ll work fine for him
Content is 🔥 keep it up guys 👍
Gotta release the bottom lock on that EZ fletch! Need to even out the pressure from the top slide on clamp
Typically do - there's a lot going on when making a video.. Also I am not perfect - TC
@@ElkShape Tim, I don't need you to be perfect, I just need you to be better. Lol I'm just givin you a hard time brother, love the tink vids. Keep up the good work!
Heard iron will broad heads will rust if you don't oil them. Also say check out some day six arrows components and broad heads they are amazing!
Day six broadheads and components....never heard of them and im a gear nut/ tinkerer. Trying to find which components im going to use for my VAP SS arrows...i dont want anything crazy FOC. Im wanting around 50/60 grains up front max for jus the insert weights
@@Orr_s Day Six is direct to consumer. Google them and they will pop up. They have all different types of weight components to fit your needs.
@@Favorites2499 thanks man!
Iron Will and Day Six don’t get along too well
@@NashJohnson774 went on day six to check components out and they dont offer much, and very little info on what dimensions and what will fit what shaft. Trying to find something better than the stock VAP 50 grains that my VAP SS 300 spine came with. But with ethics i also dont want to sand anything and theyre components are very heavy when you step up to steel or titanium. Looking to stay right at 50/60 grains insert/collar but want stronger than aluminum still. And iron wills inserts and collars wont fit my ID/OD Vap SS
Ive found the Iron Will collars should be expoxied on. I've lost two Iron Will HIT inserts and collars in a 365 target bareshaft tuning at 20 yards. After expoxying the collars I've not had any such issues.
Thank you