LOVE LOVE LOVE your channel. It helps me to tackle other jobs I have only a little experience with saving me so much money. I love how you explain the procedures without blinding us with science like some others. Plus I love your accent too. Your product placements make me laugh but are useful as if you like the tool/product that's good enough for me.
The socket marking tip is pure gold👍 Another bonus to using polyurethane foam for bonding plasterboard is there is no cold bridge spots as there sometimes are with conventional dry wall adhesive. Foam has great insulation qualities
But I was thinking, in 2023 don't they require at least 244 mm of insulation to give you a decent EPC compliance? I have the plasterboard and all, but I am thinking about sandwiching some kingspan in between, will the foam hold to both wall insulation and plasterboard or do I need to screw it in on-top? I didn't want to build a timber frame.
Nice video mate . Your nice and humble not like a lot of tradesmen who do these videos,who seem very cocky and arrogant . But I will stick to board adhesive thanks.
Sparky here. It was very nice to see you have shown that you isolated and locked off the sockets. Very good video. Will sub to you just for that for that bit alone.
I've used this stuff several years ago!!! It's ok if you just have a few boards to do! Actually saves time and makes less mess. However I don't think it was intended for bigger jobs..... Thanks for sharing
I agree, I wouldn't say use this to a professional dabber but for a DIYer I think it's easier to use. It's been a few years since I made this video and the walls are all still sound
Nice video and just a tip at 2:03 draw with a pen on the wall on the right side of the board to mark its position and then foam on the wall after moisting it within the penline, then on with the board, lesser foam accidents
The insulation improvement will be enormous!. A still air gap coupled with the polyurethane foam will be giving a resistance value close to 25mm foam backed plasterboard. It would be interesting to do a controlled test to verify the U value.
That's not how it works, the R value of plasterboard is low and putting some foam in it wont give you an even insulation so you will get cold spots. The best results are if you batten the wall and then put PIR at least 50mm in between, tape the joints and then plasterboard on top with skim or tape and joint.
Great video 👌🏽 Just recently started using foam myself I can’t fault it so far, cleaner, less strain on the body ! Also easier trick I find for the back boxes is to use off cut of plasterboard to scribe around them so leaves a chalk imprint on the back of the board when you tap it !
I like the bit where he puts the X in the box to make sure he remembers which bit is the waste material lol Good video, this stuff being used does prove the old continuous bead of board adhesive along the top for fire break is complete BS
Very impressive. Don't like dot dab as allows moisture potential condensation and mould. Supposed to apply bead all round edges to stop this, as you showed with foam, but rarely done. Easier by far with foam. Have fixed skirting with foam and very handy when needed to take it off later for furniture. Breadknife.
Great tip. You could use two screws mid bottom and mid top as anchor points to grab the plaster board and then just patch the small holes to save you getting foam all over your hands.
I have tried both but I prefer dot and dab in long term as the plaster hardens and prevents plasterboard not to warp. Foam is soft and can distort the joints.
Thank you for your clear video, I can use this on my rsj where the builders used dot and dab and timber which then failed as the timber took all the moisture out! Got a more competent builder to re finish the big structural stuff but leaves me to plaster board the rest. I’ve done the framed bits so dot and dab is next!
Why did they dot & dab on timber? I always use screws. Good luck with your boarding and let me know how you get on. Thanks for watching and please check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy you miss understand, screwed on all the framed bits bow it’s time to dot and dab the rest! I do have a steel rsj to fire board so this stuff will work perfectly on that!
I like the idea but one question.....how many sheets will one can of foam do and how many bags of adhesive would it take to do the same number? In other words what's the cost comparison?
Nice one. Your videos are always very informative. I’ve used the foam before. I found you don’t have much time to work with it. Need to get it plumb quickly. I was putting insulated plasterboard onto old walls ( plastered and painted ) so this may have reduced my time significantly. Overall though, it’s been done a couple of years now and no issues.
A tip for getting dried foam off your hands. Rub vaseline into your hands thoroughly before bed time and it will literally drop off the following morning.
I have used a similar product to line a steel shed with styrofoam and osb. Very pleased with it. Just wondering in a domestic situation how long would it hold plasterboard if a fire broke out. Maybe a few metal fixings would be good.
@@livingoffgridinscotland thank you, I,m about to fireproof board (and insulate) a garage to hold my office, solar inverters and batteries. Fire was a big thing on my mind, I will screw plenty fixings.
I've never used foam to dot and dab but I'm on a job now where I've got no time or adhesive, just watched this after a quick search, using the exact same foam and it won't even stick to the substrate. I'll stick to drywall adhesive. Always thought it was a bad idea tbh. I'm a fully qualified plasterer as we before anyone chrips up
Push it back to the wall with a straight edge, any belly in area the foam will squash really easy and the board will then belly in so use that straight edge. A couple of straight long timbers held vertical against it with a couple of timber prop holding them in place for initial cure period, say 5- 10 mins. Only put some extra fixings in after fully cured or it will also pull the board in.
whats the fire resistance of the foam? with dot and dab the head of the board is filled solid to prevent possible fire from rising behind the board and sub wall. with this I don't think the foam would last long in a fire and may even catch light and increase the fire risk. all the boards would flop off the wall into the middle of the room along with cable sandwiched behind it and make escape a nightmare aswell as any firemen entering being in trouble. I bet it has it uses for hard to get to places but I don't think uts a substitute for traditional dot and dab
Do you have to put a vcl if it’s a cavity wall. Thinking of using insulated plasterboard. Also dya think you could use this method on ceilings . Cheers
Thanks for this, exactly what I needed. Need to plasterboard my garage. Never done any plasterboarding so this was really helpful. What kind of screws will you use if you needed to tighten the board to the wall. I'm guessing you will need wall plugs which will be hard to put in once the boards up. How do you get around pipes that are in the wall?
Thanks for doing. Was going dot and dab but think I'll try this . Ever used Mega Stik? And which woyld you recommended. Nedd to stick 50mm insulating plaster board to breeze blocks and was going to PVA . Can you also recommended a good foam gun
The walls need to be quite flat/straight to use foam. I've struggled with 1920's walls where they can be up 25mm out. In those days great dollops of plaster sorted everything out. If using on aircrete blocks you can drive long plasterboard screws straight in, to pull it all level/plumb..or hold it with a straight edge for 10 mins+!
I've used it on really bad walls. It is difficult and I used a lot of foam. A good tip is if you have a little movement in the board after it's cured them I drill a 10mm hole and fill with foam and it firms up great 👍🏼
I notice the plasterboard will be sitting a fair way off the brick wall due to conduit, socket etc. Is there any problems aligning the plasterboards with this method or do you just push and eyeball it?
I didn't have much trouble aligning the boards but you could always throw in a few screws if you're having trouble. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Place a full piece of cabinet grade plywood 3/4" as a backup. Wedge with some 2x4 lumber. To hold till dry. Because it can push away from wall as it dries
Great video! Very informative and gives me the confidence to get on and re board my son’s room! One question, I see that the socket on the wall has been chased in slightly but it looks like another hasn’t. Is there a ‘best practice for how much a back box should protrude from the wall prior to boarding in this manner? Also, what’s the finished gap between the brick/block and the board? Many thanks!
The reason I make videos is exactly what you said. To give others the information and confidence to tackle jobs themselves and to pass on some useful tips too. So I'm glad you are giving it a go. Some of my backboxes were deeper than others so that's why some are chased in. A 35mm box will probably end up flush to the board without chasing it in but it will depend on how much foam is used and how plumb the walls are. Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
I have a very uneven wall i need to do this on (plastering on bottom but not on top of wall, also a chimney i removed). would dot & dab be better for such a particular case? because then I can just use bigger dabs in order to level things out. that seems difficult with this adhesive?
I cant help but wonder how the expanding foam doesn't push the board away from the wall. I guess id have to try it and see for myself what happens. One place i absolutely detest dot and dab is in kitchens. It can be a nightmare fixing back wall units. Sometimes, the old fashioned or traditional building methods are much better.
You'd maybe consider the original dot and dab method for a wall with wall units to be fitted and make sure the wall is well dab'd along the fixing line for the wall units. It's very solid once it cures and would be plenty to stop the bounce depending on the thickness. The wall behind is pretty important too and you have to make sure you use longer screws to fix the brackets.
Dab it mate, expanding foams OK for sticking small bits of board on but not full walls, the foam will deteriorate over time and crumble like dust. I would definitely put some screws in to give a mechanical fix to the wall
I'd like to see the finished wall with the straight edge used to give a perfectly straight ceiling and skirting line like you get with dab, in 45 years I've never had to use screws or stand holding a dabbed wall while it goes off
Far better to insulate walls when starting from fresh i personally would use this method foam does break down after time so long term could course a problem 💪🐸✌️
Just done 2 rooms using dot and dab method which turned out great. I used a similar product to this to board around the windows and was very surprised how much easier, quicker and tidier it was. Have my porch to do next and I’m tempted to go down this route.
Would this foam offer any insulation R factor? I'm trying to figure out the best way to install insulation and drywall to a single depth brick garage conversion so it isn't so hot/cold inside. Thank you!
You have to insulate and add a vapour control barrier. Look at part L of the regs as they have changed recently. Talk to building control aswell because if want to sell in the future it will be a nightmare. This method still needs mechanical fixing.
As a chippy I use to do the tiles on walls with silicon , a lot quicker and no mess ‘ just put it on four corners and centre , last for ever ‘ especially tiles on tiles N
I’ve got a basement room on our extension which is slabbed floor and walls seemed damp before all outside was rendered. You think this system you use would be ok now walls have dried out??
Will this stick to a painted brick wall or would the wall need prepping got some boards in the hall way ready for the spare room debating the best and easiest way to do it if this foam sticks to paint then I think this might be my easiest option I bought some plasterboard adhesive but my uncle told me I've got the wrong 1 I need dry wall adhesive I've helped plasterers in the past but they have always screwed plaster boards to battens
It works great with insulated plasterboard and the extra rigidity of the insulation makes it easier to install than regular plasterboard. Thanks for watching 👍🏼
That air gap between board and block work will suck in warm air from the room causing mold to grow , and how is that airtight with no sand plaster mix on the block work ?
I've chopped of 1.5 meteres where damp was and will be putting drywall on after damp proofing. What can I use to fill the small horizontal gap between the new drywall and the old existing brickwall.
I'm not gonna lie. I had dab and dot. IT is just messy and winded process prior of skimming, which in itself requires a good amount of energy on the trowel. So I'll definitely have a go with it.
That is a very good point that I should have included in my video. Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
I read on Google that according to the international building code, spray foam is flammable even when dry. I think there is a reason dot & dab is still recognised as the industry standard so to speak
Thank you. Full of info and the socket marking a real spot on idea.
Hardwall and bonding on that surface mate, followed by a tight skim. unbeatable.
I use the Soudal plasterboard adhesive. Amazing stuff. Would never dot ‘n dab.
It's surprising how many people criticise this method. They obviously haven't tried it.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
I have slabbed my whole house with Soudal. It is quite cheap in B&Q. More expensive at screwfix.
This is especially good knowledge for covering a wall that has been tanking slurried beforehand
LOVE LOVE LOVE your channel. It helps me to tackle other jobs I have only a little experience with saving me so much money. I love how you explain the procedures without blinding us with science like some others. Plus I love your accent too. Your product placements make me laugh but are useful as if you like the tool/product that's good enough for me.
The socket marking tip is pure gold👍
Another bonus to using polyurethane foam for bonding plasterboard is there is no cold bridge spots as there sometimes are with conventional dry wall adhesive. Foam has great insulation qualities
Great point! 👍🏼
Agreed, the socket marking was genius
But I was thinking, in 2023 don't they require at least 244 mm of insulation to give you a decent EPC compliance? I have the plasterboard and all, but I am thinking about sandwiching some kingspan in between, will the foam hold to both wall insulation and plasterboard or do I need to screw it in on-top? I didn't want to build a timber frame.
@@thewizardsofthezoo5376 I just had building regs people round in mid 2023 and they required 100mm foam board, not 200plus
You shouldn’t get cold bridging from an internal skin as there’s insulation in the cavity.
That was so helpful and you explained everything so clearly. Thank you so much.
Really like that presentation. Well done.
Nice video mate . Your nice and humble not like a lot of tradesmen who do these videos,who seem very cocky and arrogant . But I will stick to board adhesive thanks.
Sparky here. It was very nice to see you have shown that you isolated and locked off the sockets. Very good video. Will sub to you just for that for that bit alone.
Thanks for the sub! 👍🏼
I've used this stuff several years ago!!! It's ok if you just have a few boards to do! Actually saves time and makes less mess. However I don't think it was intended for bigger jobs.....
Thanks for sharing
I agree, I wouldn't say use this to a professional dabber but for a DIYer I think it's easier to use.
It's been a few years since I made this video and the walls are all still sound
I used it for my whole house.
Nice video and just a tip at 2:03 draw with a pen on the wall on the right side of the board to mark its position and then foam on the wall after moisting it within the penline, then on with the board, lesser foam accidents
Great video, thanks. And over to the age old argument about when to have boards vertical vs horizontal
Hi mate, nice video. I used this foam once, and even though it was good, it cost a fortune when comparing to drywall
Love the socket marking out method, genius 👍
The insulation improvement will be enormous!.
A still air gap coupled with the polyurethane foam will be giving a resistance value close to 25mm foam backed plasterboard.
It would be interesting to do a controlled test to verify the U value.
That's not how it works, the R value of plasterboard is low and putting some foam in it wont give you an even insulation so you will get cold spots. The best results are if you batten the wall and then put PIR at least 50mm in between, tape the joints and then plasterboard on top with skim or tape and joint.
Thank you, I came here to ask that 😊.
Planning to insulate concrete garage.
Great video 👌🏽 Just recently started using foam myself I can’t fault it so far, cleaner, less strain on the body ! Also easier trick I find for the back boxes is to use off cut of plasterboard to scribe around them so leaves a chalk imprint on the back of the board when you tap it !
That's a great tip for the back boxes, thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe to help me out 👍🏼
I just wet the socket it marks the board
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy your welcome mate I taught James Brain how To do that when he was my apprentice.
@jamesbrain9652 It's so old fashion nowadays using dot & dab & messy...
I like the bit where he puts the X in the box to make sure he remembers which bit is the waste material lol Good video, this stuff being used does prove the old continuous bead of board adhesive along the top for fire break is complete BS
Enjoyed your video and thanks for the advice, I’m fed up of cleaning the bloody bucket after dot and dab. Going to give this a try
Been looking for an easy to glue plywood shiplap to brick fireplace! This will make things so much easier !
Really good video one question can you use sticky foam on insulated plaster board please
Yes
Nice tip..also if its similar to fire foam then it will form a fire barrier in the wall cavity around the electrical socket. Keep up the good videos!
The Screwfix No Nonsense sticky foam is cheap and not fire rated. 👎
Very impressive. Don't like dot dab as allows moisture potential condensation and mould. Supposed to apply bead all round edges to stop this, as you showed with foam, but rarely done. Easier by far with foam. Have fixed skirting with foam and very handy when needed to take it off later for furniture. Breadknife.
Great tip. You could use two screws mid bottom and mid top as anchor points to grab the plaster board and then just patch the small holes to save you getting foam all over your hands.
That's a great tip.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
Adhesive plasterboard foam is the future!
It certainly is. So much easier.
Thanks for watching 👍🏼
😂😂😂😂 not a chance
So what do you do when you have to adjust the board? like having to pad it out a bit more.
I have tried both but I prefer dot and dab in long term as the plaster hardens and prevents plasterboard not to warp. Foam is soft and can distort the joints.
Thank you for your clear video, I can use this on my rsj where the builders used dot and dab and timber which then failed as the timber took all the moisture out! Got a more competent builder to re finish the big structural stuff but leaves me to plaster board the rest. I’ve done the framed bits so dot and dab is next!
Why did they dot & dab on timber? I always use screws.
Good luck with your boarding and let me know how you get on.
Thanks for watching and please check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy you miss understand, screwed on all the framed bits bow it’s time to dot and dab the rest!
I do have a steel rsj to fire board so this stuff will work perfectly on that!
I like the idea but one question.....how many sheets will one can of foam do and how many bags of adhesive would it take to do the same number? In other words what's the cost comparison?
thanks for this. As I am about to do a very small job this method seems ideal.
job done, reasonably easy
Nice one. Your videos are always very informative.
I’ve used the foam before. I found you don’t have much time to work with it. Need to get it plumb quickly. I was putting insulated plasterboard onto old walls ( plastered and painted ) so this may have reduced my time significantly. Overall though, it’s been done a couple of years now and no issues.
I did this about a year ago and no issues either.
You're right you do have to work quite quickly but preparation is key.
Subscribed because of this vid brilliant! Everyone loves a tidy easy hassel free job. Keep up the advices n tips
Great product and well taught but man you could save a ton of time by investing in a router for your outlets!
Good video, I'll try your foam idea for my porch project. Thanks
Well, gonna give this a go tomorrow, will let you know how it goes.
How did you get on?
A tip for getting dried foam off your hands. Rub vaseline into your hands thoroughly before bed time and it will literally drop off the following morning.
Quick question, wouldn't the moister of the brick affect the plaster board and eventually create mold issue? thanks
I have used a similar product to line a steel shed with styrofoam and osb. Very pleased with it. Just wondering in a domestic situation how long would it hold plasterboard if a fire broke out. Maybe a few metal fixings would be good.
I'm hoping I will never find out 🔥 👍🏼
You’re supposed to add 4 metal fixings per board incase of fire
@@livingoffgridinscotland thank you, I,m about to fireproof board (and insulate) a garage to hold my office, solar inverters and batteries. Fire was a big thing on my mind, I will screw plenty fixings.
I've never used foam to dot and dab but I'm on a job now where I've got no time or adhesive, just watched this after a quick search, using the exact same foam and it won't even stick to the substrate. I'll stick to drywall adhesive. Always thought it was a bad idea tbh. I'm a fully qualified plasterer as we before anyone chrips up
yeah it will also stick pretty well to a brand new set of levels.
Great job, you make it look so easy.
Im planing to fix my workshop up a bit, can tgese boards be used in a welding workshop?
Thanks
Push it back to the wall with a straight edge, any belly in area the foam will squash really easy and the board will then belly in so use that straight edge. A couple of straight long timbers held vertical against it with a couple of timber prop holding them in place for initial cure period, say 5- 10 mins. Only put some extra fixings in after fully cured or it will also pull the board in.
Awesome bro!! You just solved an issue for me - 😎
Glad my video helped you out. Let me know how you get on.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help the channel out 👍🏼
Hi, could you overboard ceiling using this. With the assist of props, thanks
Awesome video. I'll be doing this soon
Don't lol
@@liquidsnake6879 that's helpful
whats the fire resistance of the foam? with dot and dab the head of the board is filled solid to prevent possible fire from rising behind the board and sub wall. with this I don't think the foam would last long in a fire and may even catch light and increase the fire risk. all the boards would flop off the wall into the middle of the room along with cable sandwiched behind it and make escape a nightmare aswell as any firemen entering being in trouble. I bet it has it uses for hard to get to places but I don't think uts a substitute for traditional dot and dab
This No nonsense Sticky foam ain't fire rated. Wouldn't touch it with a barge pole, stick to dot and dab
Do you have to put a vcl if it’s a cavity wall. Thinking of using insulated plasterboard. Also dya think you could use this method on ceilings .
Cheers
If you do this on a ceiling you still need to screw the plasterboard but you use less screws
Thanks for this, exactly what I needed. Need to plasterboard my garage.
Never done any plasterboarding so this was really helpful.
What kind of screws will you use if you needed to tighten the board to the wall. I'm guessing you will need wall plugs which will be hard to put in once the boards up.
How do you get around pipes that are in the wall?
I just love the accent 😊
Thanks 😊
Very good video!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help me out 👍🏼
Does this need the breeze block to be primed like with PVA when dot & dabbing
Love the Australian accent!
I'm pretty sure he's from Liverpool?
Thanks for doing. Was going dot and dab but think I'll try this . Ever used Mega Stik? And which woyld you recommended. Nedd to stick 50mm insulating plaster board to breeze blocks and was going to PVA . Can you also recommended a good foam gun
The walls need to be quite flat/straight to use foam.
I've struggled with 1920's walls where they can be up 25mm out. In those days great dollops of plaster sorted everything out.
If using on aircrete blocks you can drive long plasterboard screws straight in, to pull it all level/plumb..or hold it with a straight edge for 10 mins+!
I've used it on really bad walls. It is difficult and I used a lot of foam. A good tip is if you have a little movement in the board after it's cured them I drill a 10mm hole and fill with foam and it firms up great 👍🏼
Thanks for this. Struggling with uneven walls myself. Maybe make another video with older, uneven walls?
Great tips, to the point!
I notice the plasterboard will be sitting a fair way off the brick wall due to conduit, socket etc. Is there any problems aligning the plasterboards with this method or do you just push and eyeball it?
I didn't have much trouble aligning the boards but you could always throw in a few screws if you're having trouble.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Place a full piece of cabinet grade plywood 3/4" as a backup. Wedge with some 2x4 lumber. To hold till dry.
Because it can push away from wall as it dries
Great video! Very informative and gives me the confidence to get on and re board my son’s room! One question, I see that the socket on the wall has been chased in slightly but it looks like another hasn’t. Is there a ‘best practice for how much a back box should protrude from the wall prior to boarding in this manner? Also, what’s the finished gap between the brick/block and the board? Many thanks!
The reason I make videos is exactly what you said. To give others the information and confidence to tackle jobs themselves and to pass on some useful tips too.
So I'm glad you are giving it a go.
Some of my backboxes were deeper than others so that's why some are chased in.
A 35mm box will probably end up flush to the board without chasing it in but it will depend on how much foam is used and how plumb the walls are.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
I have a very uneven wall i need to do this on (plastering on bottom but not on top of wall, also a chimney i removed). would dot & dab be better for such a particular case? because then I can just use bigger dabs in order to level things out. that seems difficult with this adhesive?
does the foam gun not get blocked with the adhesive foam?
I cant help but wonder how the expanding foam doesn't push the board away from the wall. I guess id have to try it and see for myself what happens. One place i absolutely detest dot and dab is in kitchens. It can be a nightmare fixing back wall units. Sometimes, the old fashioned or traditional building methods are much better.
It doesn't expand as much as regular foam
You'd maybe consider the original dot and dab method for a wall with wall units to be fitted and make sure the wall is well dab'd along the fixing line for the wall units. It's very solid once it cures and would be plenty to stop the bounce depending on the thickness. The wall behind is pretty important too and you have to make sure you use longer screws to fix the brackets.
Last question. Could you use foam on thermal insulation board?
Yes you can
Could this be used to plasterboard over Artex?
Could you use this when overboarding a ceiling or would you have to use batten and screws ?
You would have to screw the boards on a ceiling
Nice ill try that... bloody hate washing up d and d
Do you have to do anything to a painted surface to use this foam for adding plasterboard ?
I’m going to plaster board my kitchen but want to tile over the plaster board will the foam hold the plasterboard with tiles on?
Would this help prevent the board drawing in damp? Want to plaster my porch but worried the red brick will cause damp with gypsum board. Cheers
Would this method work on moisture board in a shower/bathroom?
Does this work on a single block external wall or will damp pull through? Thanks Tom
The damp would probably pull through without a cavity.
Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍🏼
Yes Andy Sugdan. Hope your doing well. Can’t see that working as d&d though
dot a dab allows draft to filter down from the loft area. Use expando form to stop this...
Can this be done to a solid 9inch brick wall? Or will it only work on brick walls with a cavity?
Dab it mate, expanding foams OK for sticking small bits of board on but not full walls, the foam will deteriorate over time and crumble like dust. I would definitely put some screws in to give a mechanical fix to the wall
I'd like to see the finished wall with the straight edge used to give a perfectly straight ceiling and skirting line like you get with dab, in 45 years I've never had to use screws or stand holding a dabbed wall while it goes off
Would this work for 30mm insulating plasterboard as well?
Yes it would.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
Nice one, cheers buddy 🤩💪😔
You're very welcome.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to check out my other videos and subscribe to help my channel grow 👍🏼
Great video! Some other videos say you should put UVA on the walls, is it not necessary while using your foam method?
Could you do that with foam backed boards?
Great video. I want to plasterboard in a bedroom but just on the outside wall. Do I need to take the existing plaster off first?
NO
Excellent video mate. Super clear and many thanks for the impression amd marking top tip. Buying this product tomorrow. Ta la.
You're welcome, let me know how you get on and if my video helped you much 👍🏼
Far better to insulate walls when starting from fresh i personally would use this method foam does break down after time so long term could course a problem 💪🐸✌️
Just done 2 rooms using dot and dab method which turned out great. I used a similar product to this to board around the windows and was very surprised how much easier, quicker and tidier it was. Have my porch to do next and I’m tempted to go down this route.
I really like this method rather than traditional dot and dab.
Let me know how you get on 👍🏼
@@spendtimesavemoneydiy is it necessary to PVA the wall 1st
@@TheWiccanGirl if the walls are sound like these breeze blocks then no but if it was an old flakey wall then it's always a good idea to pva
Those aren't breezeblocks, they're concrete blocks. Less surface dust than thermalites, always PVA thermalite.
Would this foam offer any insulation R factor? I'm trying to figure out the best way to install insulation and drywall to a single depth brick garage conversion so it isn't so hot/cold inside. Thank you!
Maybe use this foam but with insulated plaster boards.
Thanks for watching and don't forget to like and subscribe to help me out 👍🏼
You have to insulate and add a vapour control barrier. Look at part L of the regs as they have changed recently. Talk to building control aswell because if want to sell in the future it will be a nightmare. This method still needs mechanical fixing.
As a chippy I use to do the tiles on walls with silicon , a lot quicker and no mess ‘ just put it on four corners and centre , last for ever ‘ especially tiles on tiles
N
Foam is the way, no heavy bags or mixing!
I’ve got a basement room on our extension which is slabbed floor and walls seemed damp before all outside was rendered. You think this system you use would be ok now walls have dried out??
I think it would work.
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Will this adhere to an old emulsioned brick wall ...
Will this stick to a painted brick wall or would the wall need prepping got some boards in the hall way ready for the spare room debating the best and easiest way to do it if this foam sticks to paint then I think this might be my easiest option I bought some plasterboard adhesive but my uncle told me I've got the wrong 1 I need dry wall adhesive I've helped plasterers in the past but they have always screwed plaster boards to battens
If you bond the painted wall first then it should stick fine 👍🏼
Great video! Does this work with foam backed plasterboard (i.e. the one that comes with insulation already mounted on the back)
It works great with insulated plasterboard and the extra rigidity of the insulation makes it easier to install than regular plasterboard.
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That air gap between board and block work will suck in warm air from the room causing mold to grow , and how is that airtight with no sand plaster mix on the block work ?
I've chopped of 1.5 meteres where damp was and will be putting drywall on after damp proofing. What can I use to fill the small horizontal gap between the new drywall and the old existing brickwall.
Bonding plaster to fill gaps before skimming with multi finish.
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Is that just a regular can of expanding foam or a particular foam to fix plasterboards?
It's sticky foam with better adhesive properties than regular foam.
Would this be strong enough to stick plasterboard to a ceiling?
No you would need screws aswell but not as many
I'm not gonna lie. I had dab and dot. IT is just messy and winded process prior of skimming, which in itself requires a good amount of energy on the trowel. So I'll definitely have a go with it.
Is this method ok for external inside wall?
Would it still work on foil backed plasterboard?
Thanks
I dot and dab but if i mess it up i some times drill a hole a pit a sqirt of foam in to stabilise things
I would watch where you use this No Nonsense Sticky foam as it is not fire rated?
Another reason for using foam is damp wil not pass from the wall to the board
That is a very good point that I should have included in my video.
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How thin does the foam compress down to?
I read on Google that according to the international building code, spray foam is flammable even when dry. I think there is a reason dot & dab is still recognised as the industry standard so to speak