The amount of rust y’all have to deal with amazes me. I bought an 79 international F1954 factory double frame dump truck in the late 80’s and sold it in the early 2000’s and the frame looked like new still. In Texas off road in the mud and sand zero bad rust. That salt is bad stuff on your roads.
I watch your builds for one reason. INTEGRITY ! You are an inspiration to always do it right, and I do not even build trucks. This information can be transferred to any job. Thanks J. C. you are one of the best!
JC is a rare breed of man that we rarely get to see anymore. NO cutting corners and cheaping out! He knows what he wants the end product to be and he builds to that standard!
JCS, I really admire your integrity and concern for the highest quality and safety of your builds. Sadly you're not a commercial shop! So there are too many guys out there building sloppy and dangerous installations on commercial vehicles that we all share the highways with. I couldn't believe how bad that other truck was that also belongs to your friend! Thanks for showing the right way!
I like watching these type of videos. I learn a lot from you JC even though I will never do anything like this but I just really enjoy fabrication videos!
I’m glad the guy came to you. Paying for knowledge will be rewarding. It’s unfortunate he had the other truck done wrong but getting it right will be good.
There are many ways to cut and splice a truck frame. The 45 degree cut seams to be a industry engineering best practice as far as I know. You have a big project on your hands. And yes it’s an absolute that the frame needs a glove to double it for strength. To take stress of any weld joints. 👍look good so far once it’s stripped so the full picture of the current frame conditions are no longer hidden.
Wow ! Excellent video !!! All of your assessments and options presented are logically thought out and make complete sense. Structurally, you have covered everything and the throw out bearing issue was a bonus reason for removing the transmission ... gaining more needed access. Looking forward to the next part of this video. It's always refreshing to watch and listen to a skilled person with considerable experience in their comfort zone. Your clearly are the right man for this job. Respect.
Jc there are several heavy truck shops and salvage places here in central ms that may have what you need. I don’t have a way to transport parts but can help a little on lining stuff up. It might be worth spending a day or two on the road to significantly cut the wait time down.
Man that salt really takes its toll. I tend to agree with your engineering and I am sure it will get the 4 layer of paint treatment too. When complete it will last a considerable amount of time, unlike the deathtrap. Keep the content coming.
I’m hanging along for the ride JC. you got a lot of work ahead of you and I like the way you’re thinking this out by servicing the clutch kit while everything is out makes perfect sense. Looking forward to this build.
first i am so glad your friend has decided to go with you doing the tank conversion that other rig was a disaster looking for a place to occur thank you for everyone who wont know out there on the road that the truck your making replaced a rolling accident
In 90s i worked @Peterbilt in test dept. One truck i was working on had rear alignment issues, turns out a frame rail needed replaced. To see the frame assembly guys unbolt & pull out rail then slide replacement in while truck parked right outside the back door, was pretty damn cool.
I’ve been air hammering the frame of my 2003 f-250. This road salt does an absolute terrible number on the steel. So many parts needed replaced, but I just keep telling myself when it’s done, and it’s done right, it’s gonna be great.
Time wise I think you are going to be forced into doing a frame splice Parts wise this is going to be expensive. You will do a great job on this project but it will be time consuming. Thanks for taking us along! Tom
Do you get to keep the pieces/parts that you take off that the owner can't use? If so, good stuff for other projects or repairs. I've commented on this before but it can NEVER be spoken too much about and that is the amazing support that you get from your partner and precious wife! I see only a few on TH-cam that this happens. She is an absolute jewel of a woman! Not only supports what you do but gets in there and helps!
I think you have a good plan. I've seen several 30ton, and 75ton wreckers doubled frame that way. Add the cut off and add the additional frame from front to rear. I'm sure you'll do a great job.
Good luck my friend, that's a lot of work & fighting that rust is miserable. All are good options U spoke of. I myself would have shopped for a different truck, like a clean southern truck the proper length I needed. Thank U for posting.
if another truck was an option, that is what would have been done. i have 2 trucks that are perfect for this tank but i am not giving them away. this is the most cost effective option for him.
30:19 most weld per bond is a sinusoidal line. It's actually what they used to do when they build battleships. They didn't know how powerful welds would be (as a bonding method with that metal), so they have "teeth" at every join, which describe a sinusoidal line. One meter of welds is actually something like 4 stretched out.
Need the Jaws of Life or similar device to pop those rust jacked liners out. Wow. What a job. But you are doing an excellent job as always Love your channel. Always learn a lot.
A friend will help get it done. A good friend will tell you when you'r re doing it cheaply, dangerously and wrong. And then help you do it right. Good plan for the stretch frame, the original frame looks reinforceable. The inner and outer layers added will minimize the original frames multitude of bolt holes. Viable plan so far.
I eventually started to fix my cars (inspired by You, among others), so don't have much time to watch your movies just after release. Greetings from a mechanic from EU.
Gonna be a big job no matter how you do it. I think a cut off would be a nice fit. Upgrades the wheel hubs, gives you a cleaner frame and could get a more favorable gear ratio if desired
he wants to re-use the original axles and suspension. i suggested walking beam or slipper spring in place of air bags due to the liquid surging but he refused.
I'd cut off as you pointed too doing. That frame is toast. Even try'n find a used truck with a good frame? Or salvage yard for part of one? (Even a double frame?) We used to install Grove & Mid-Equipment rollbacks. There was always long cutoff frame tails that were compatible. I remember 5 Int'l Cab n Chassis, jacked drivers forward to facilitate the cab to trunion for hoist n dump bodies. The cutoff parts were a treasure trove later on down the road. The boss even sold one of'em the frame parts to a competitor. Back in the late 60s, a friend of mine had a 750 Ford double frame twin screw, we cut it, put 7' in it. He went to a local shop had them form the frame rails of thicker cold rolled material but to fit up with the outside dimensions. The vertical cuts were staggered, after I welded them in they were fish-plated. He got a factory driveshaft before cutting anything to ensure the right finish. These were all done in a rust belt state. Be a shame to build off of the existing frame n have it fail on down the road. This'll make a nice piece when you get it completed. Anxious to see how you get there. 🇺🇸🏁🇺🇸 👍
I imagine you tried PG Adams for the rails, they shipped me a set of rails within a week of my ordering them. That was a year or so ago. They were really easy to work with, although I imagine a local shop may be able to offer better pricing.
JC, think-your best bet is long frame rails from the Junk yard, and definitely butt 2 rails per side. Perhaps, U can keep the existing rails to make it easier for the holes and alignment
I’m glad your friend JC bite the bullet and took your advice on his truck’s. We all know he’s a good working man and and his income makes the decisions as in me as well. As all ways JC love your work. Cheers Steve 🍺🍺🍺. Sorry your wife’s work as well 🌹🌹🌹
P.G. Adams brake can brake 50 FEET of 1/2" grade 100 steel! I would love to tour that place. Or at least see the brake at work !! That would make some awesome content, if you were to go watch them make your rails. That said, I'm sure they were the highest price. I will also say, they ALWAYS hit whatever number I ask for. Top quality!!
Sooooo happy the guy decided to let you tear that death trap apart and do it right. I noticed that you didn’t wear your dark glasses when using the plasma cutter. To me the “fire “ looks the same as the welder 👨🏭, what’s the difference in terms of eye damage from looking at the light from one versus the other.
There is a chart online at Lmt tanks. It shows what wheelbase and the measurements of tank .that helps on setting it up for axle weight. The chart is called the tank wizard.
if i cut the bottom flange off and installed it that way, imagine how much water, slat and brine solution would get trapped between the two. that is how it is done on all the internationals i have seen with an "L" outer frame.
It's also about European laws, where you can't modify stuff, and because internet, it ends up floating on your side of the pond as hearsay. There are some countries here where registering a modified frame (of any kind) that's not done by the manufacturer or an authorized dealer/shop is... well, might as well try to catch a lightning in a jar.
I can sleep well tonight. That last truck literally gave me nightmares. Good to know it'll be getting done up right (sorry for the owner's time and pocketbook though)
It keeps amazing me how you can do all that work by yourself and the “valuable” help of Your wife. I’m Shute you’re lying to us. You probably have a crew of 5 to 7 people, and every time you are about to shoot a video you kindly ask them to live the shop. Kkkkk greetings from Brazil
My hubby watches your videos. I have a 92 Freightliner cabover needs a lot of work and needs the frame stretched. We love in Cleveland.Ohio. Family in Canton. So we were excited to see you are close to us. Please let me know if you can do some work for us❤
i get contacted often from folks asking if i would work on their truck. i wish i could help everyone.. i appreciate that folks like yourself are willing to put their truck in my hands but i just cant. im not a repair facility. i am slow and like things a certain way. few people understand just how much time, effort and money it takes to build a truck the way i like to do it. most dont want to invest that much into repairs that they can have done at a repair shop for pennies on the dollar.
Have you heard of alfab. In Columbus ohio. When I worked at Bradshaw we made tanker trucks and if we needed something like that. That is who we used. By the way I've never commented on anything but I like your work and channel. And if you have already thought of them sorry for wasting your time.
273 x 89 x 9.5mm main frame with 252 x 79 x 6.4mm insert, as-built 🙂 With the 273mm frame, inserts were optional for tanker applications but recommended if used off-road; usually from halfway along the section between the front axle rear hangers and front of the air-ride hangers, to at least the first crossmember behind the bogie. Also it was recommended to solid-mount the tank subframe to angle brackets bolted to the chassis at the rear and at the centre, and use a resilient mount at the front - this was also an angle bracket rigidly bolted to the chassis, but with sprung bolts between the chassis bracket and the tank subframe. This allows the high-tensile steel frame to flex slightly as it is designed to do, without cracking the tank subframe. Please excuse the edits, I had to dig-out my precious copy of the PACCAR Bodybuilder’s Manual, treasured since I worked at Foden - whose chassis were built from the same grade of rails and using many KW/Pete components including the Peterbilt air-ride bogie. Hope that helps 🙂
this isnt even close to 9.5 mm thick frame. the cuttoff frame i am using is thicker. i am lining it for at least 5ft but maybe more. then doing the outer "L" frame front to back.
@@j.c.smithprojects I forgot it was originally a tractor unit 🤦 Possibly 256 x 79 x 8 mm which was common once 300bhp+ high-torque-rise engines becoming the norm (due to the corresponding torque output twisting the rails to an unacceptable degree when working hard). Possibly 6.4mm thick, although that was pretty much obsolete by the ‘80s 🙂 There were several more sizes of rails that didn’t make it to Foden; also we didn’t get aluminium frame rail options due to the whole of the UK being Salt Belt from early November to March-ish 😁
The sprung bolt mounting for forward and center tank mounts (rear is generally rigid) is also to as you said allow the truck frame to flex. But as well as to not induce undo flexion to the structure of the tank itself, which can lead to failures of welds on the baffles, leading to leakage or unmitigated fluid motion. "Causing an unsafe condition". This may not be word for word, but is what I can recollect from Curry's body mounting guides..
JC with box trucks you have can you re use those frame rails to save time and money I did my 71 kenworth using a 4 spring int corporate clip and used mack frame for a liner just an idea
Liner on the inside cross member you can adjust outside then you have to deal with spring hangars and suspension problem cause you are widening the hangars
@George think about what I mentioned measure measure measure George just wondering have you stretched any trucks tell me where I am wrong trying to learn
this suspension doesnt have bushings in the leaf springs like you may be thinking. they are in a moun ting bracket that bolts to the leaf spring. this mount is adjustable. the bushing and sleeve inside have enough room to accommodate without issues.
i have used por 15 twice and with both i ended up with the same results. it came off in sheets. i use acrylic enamel with a hardener on frames with great success.
The amount of rust y’all have to deal with amazes me. I bought an 79 international F1954 factory double frame dump truck in the late 80’s and sold it in the early 2000’s and the frame looked like new still. In Texas off road in the mud and sand zero bad rust. That salt is bad stuff on your roads.
I watch your builds for one reason. INTEGRITY ! You are an inspiration to always do it right, and I do not even build trucks. This information can be transferred to any job. Thanks J. C. you are one of the best!
JC is a rare breed of man that we rarely get to see anymore. NO cutting corners and cheaping out! He knows what he wants the end product to be and he builds to that standard!
JCS, I really admire your integrity and concern for the highest quality and safety of your builds. Sadly you're not a commercial shop! So there are too many guys out there building sloppy and dangerous installations on commercial vehicles that we all share the highways with. I couldn't believe how bad that other truck was that also belongs to your friend! Thanks for showing the right way!
I like watching these type of videos. I learn a lot from you JC even though I will never do anything like this but I just really enjoy fabrication videos!
I was just wondering about that truck today! Glad he’s choosing the right path with you… can’t wait to see you tear into the other one
I’m glad the guy came to you. Paying for knowledge will be rewarding. It’s unfortunate he had the other truck done wrong but getting it right will be good.
100% truth ! My thoughts as well.
There are many ways to cut and splice a truck frame. The 45 degree cut seams to be a industry engineering best practice as far as I know. You have a big project on your hands. And yes it’s an absolute that the frame needs a glove to double it for strength. To take stress of any weld joints. 👍look good so far once it’s stripped so the full picture of the current frame conditions are no longer hidden.
Glad your friend is rethinking his truckand that you decided to support him.
Always a pleasure to hang around people who do it right, or dont do it at all.
You sir are a true craftsman and don’t mind getting dirty👍
What a beauty! Excited to see the JC touch.
from what I have seen [watching him work] he always has a very good reason for what he does, and how he does it.
I don’t know how this channel appeared, but I’m hooked. Love watching & listening to great explanations. Also good editing. Thanks for the content.
i dont know what or how you got here but we are happy to have you.
Wow ! Excellent video !!!
All of your assessments and options presented are logically thought out and make complete sense.
Structurally, you have covered everything and the throw out bearing issue was a bonus reason for removing the transmission ... gaining more needed access. Looking forward to the next part of this video. It's always refreshing to watch and listen to a skilled person with considerable experience in their comfort zone. Your clearly are the right man for this job. Respect.
Our FAVORITE DIY show on YT, not even close…!
That’s a big project to take on. Plus all that rust doesn’t help things. Looking forward to the build series.👍
Friendship trumps all. Good on all of you. Y'all stay warm and dry and safe.
Great Video J.C. Lot of work a lot, Thanks for sharing this with us.. Always watching 👍👍
So glad to see 'The Rest of the Story" !
Cheers
I like how you break down the how and why of the work that you're doing.
Your wife Is and absolute treasure!!!!!
Jc there are several heavy truck shops and salvage places here in central ms that may have what you need. I don’t have a way to transport parts but can help a little on lining stuff up. It might be worth spending a day or two on the road to significantly cut the wait time down.
i picked up some sections today. fingers crossed they look good once i strip them down.
Love watching your vids. I miss doing this kind of work
Man that salt really takes its toll. I tend to agree with your engineering and I am sure it will get the 4 layer of paint treatment too. When complete it will last a considerable amount of time, unlike the deathtrap. Keep the content coming.
I’m hanging along for the ride JC. you got a lot of work ahead of you and I like the way you’re thinking this out by servicing the clutch kit while everything is out makes perfect sense. Looking forward to this build.
first i am so glad your friend has decided to go with you doing the tank conversion that other rig was a disaster looking for a place to occur thank you for everyone who wont know out there on the road that the truck your making replaced a rolling accident
JC thanks for sharing your adventures, I enjoy watching what you are doing!!!! 🤗🤗🤗
In 90s i worked @Peterbilt in test dept. One truck i was working on had rear alignment issues, turns out a frame rail needed replaced. To see the frame assembly guys unbolt & pull out rail then slide replacement in while truck parked right outside the back door, was pretty damn cool.
that is what needed done to this. would have made a much cleaner end result
Great video J.C.Smith it's a nice project. Looking forward to the next video on this truck stay safe Mr & Mrs J.C.Smith.
I love these frame stretch projects!
Love that style of truck.
Looks like it will be straight forward from here!
I’ve been air hammering the frame of my 2003 f-250. This road salt does an absolute terrible number on the steel. So many parts needed replaced, but I just keep telling myself when it’s done, and it’s done right, it’s gonna be great.
You are so through and knowledge I once called you the Johnathan W of trucks love your videos
i remember that.
Mr Jc Hope all is well. Tell your grandson hello. Thanks for sharing and stay safe
thanks mr. hal. his name is memphis and he loves watching you all.
JC I learn so much from your videos thank you for sharing your videos.
I so glad you stuck to your guns, It'll be nice to see it done Right! Great Video!
Time wise I think you are going to be forced into doing a frame splice Parts wise this is going to be expensive. You will do a great job on this project but it will be time consuming. Thanks for taking us along! Tom
i can only spare so much time. picked up frame sections today. the splice starts tomorrow.
Glad he choose a better truck to put that tank on , plus it’ll be done right with no cutting corners to just get it on the road .
this is getting a different tank.
I like your idea of bringing in a piece to ..... running out of words here .... I am so darn sick that I can barely hold my head up
so sorry to hear that. hope you feel better soon.
Do you get to keep the pieces/parts that you take off that the owner can't use? If so, good stuff for other projects or repairs. I've commented on this before but it can NEVER be spoken too much about and that is the amazing support that you get from your partner and precious wife! I see only a few on TH-cam that this happens. She is an absolute jewel of a woman! Not only supports what you do but gets in there and helps!
I think you have a good plan. I've seen several 30ton, and 75ton wreckers doubled frame that way. Add the cut off and add the additional frame from front to rear. I'm sure you'll do a great job.
Excited to follow along on this build!
Good luck my friend, that's a lot of work & fighting that rust is miserable. All are good options U spoke of. I myself would have shopped for a different truck, like a clean southern truck the proper length I needed. Thank U for posting.
if another truck was an option, that is what would have been done. i have 2 trucks that are perfect for this tank but i am not giving them away. this is the most cost effective option for him.
YES Another JC Smith project!! Thanks
You the Man Mr.J.C. love your work! Y'all take care.
30:19 most weld per bond is a sinusoidal line. It's actually what they used to do when they build battleships. They didn't know how powerful welds would be (as a bonding method with that metal), so they have "teeth" at every join, which describe a sinusoidal line. One meter of welds is actually something like 4 stretched out.
Happy new year to the best camerawoman and interior expert on TH-cam!!!!! 😁
Life would be next to impossible without your telehandler JC. 😮
NAH. just have to be a little more resourceful. where there is a will there is a way.
Clicked on video, hit thumbs up, then started watching!!!!
how have have you been my friend? i certainly miss seeing your videos. i sure hope you and all of yours are doing well.
What a beautiful truck! 🙂 Kinda hope he’s keeping the 20-inch Daytons 🤟🏼 Will be following this build like a bloodhound after a scent 😎
I've just found your Channel so I'm playing catch up but you ain't no fool & you know your Trade, good job mate 👍👍👍
welcome and thanks for watching!
Great video , can't wait for next one . 👍
At least he got smart and brought it to you to do. The other shop probably would've just reused all that old worn out crap over again
Need the Jaws of Life or similar device to pop those rust jacked liners out.
Wow. What a job. But you are doing an excellent job as always
Love your channel. Always learn a lot.
Ive done alot of what your doing and its alot of work ive fixed meny tri axel trucks with dubble frame horable seperate them like you and that liner
A friend will help get it done.
A good friend will tell you when you'r re doing it cheaply, dangerously and wrong. And then help you do it right. Good plan for the stretch frame, the original frame looks reinforceable. The inner and outer layers added will minimize the original frames multitude of bolt holes. Viable plan so far.
Excited for a new build
I eventually started to fix my cars (inspired by You, among others), so don't have much time to watch your movies just after release. Greetings from a mechanic from EU.
Did some auto cars back in the eighty’s double frame plus 1/2” plate down the outside of the rail were long wheel base built for the oil fields
Gonna be a big job no matter how you do it. I think a cut off would be a nice fit. Upgrades the wheel hubs, gives you a cleaner frame and could get a more favorable gear ratio if desired
he wants to re-use the original axles and suspension. i suggested walking beam or slipper spring in place of air bags due to the liquid surging but he refused.
@@j.c.smithprojects interesting feller that guy.
I'd cut off as you pointed too doing.
That frame is toast. Even try'n find a used truck with a good frame? Or salvage yard for part of one? (Even a double frame?)
We used to install Grove & Mid-Equipment rollbacks. There was always long cutoff frame tails that were compatible. I remember 5 Int'l Cab n Chassis, jacked drivers forward to facilitate the cab to trunion for hoist n dump bodies. The cutoff parts were a treasure trove later on down the road. The boss even sold one of'em the frame parts to a competitor.
Back in the late 60s, a friend of mine had a 750 Ford double frame twin screw, we cut it, put 7' in it. He went to a local shop had them form the frame rails of thicker cold rolled material but to fit up with the outside dimensions. The vertical cuts were staggered, after I welded them in they were fish-plated. He got a factory driveshaft before cutting anything to ensure the right finish. These were all done in a rust belt state.
Be a shame to build off of the existing frame n have it fail on down the road. This'll make a nice piece when you get it completed. Anxious to see how you get there.
🇺🇸🏁🇺🇸 👍
I imagine you tried PG Adams for the rails, they shipped me a set of rails within a week of my ordering them. That was a year or so ago. They were really easy to work with, although I imagine a local shop may be able to offer better pricing.
yep. they were the most expensive. we have found a cost effective option.
I was wondering when the needle gun would come out. Great tool for rust scale. I have one I use on my car hauler for maintenance.
I like that clutch jack.
JC, think-your best bet is long frame rails from the Junk yard, and definitely butt 2 rails per side. Perhaps, U can keep the existing rails to make it easier for the holes and alignment
Someone loves their blue tele-handler.
That's what I like about it, you do it right
I’m glad your friend JC bite the bullet and took your advice on his truck’s. We all know he’s a good working man and and his income makes the decisions as in me as well. As all ways JC love your work. Cheers Steve 🍺🍺🍺. Sorry your wife’s work as well 🌹🌹🌹
P.G. Adams brake can brake 50 FEET of 1/2" grade 100 steel!
I would love to tour that place. Or at least see the brake at work !!
That would make some awesome content, if you were to go watch them make your rails.
That said, I'm sure they were the highest price.
I will also say, they ALWAYS hit whatever number I ask for.
Top quality!!
Where is Adams Brake located? I'd like to give them a call on a frame I'm planning to stretch as well.
What ever u do it will be a real good job.
My 1990 378 had adjustable crossmembers. This was a pleasant surprise when I decided to double frame the truck.
Sooooo happy the guy decided to let you tear that death trap apart and do it right.
I noticed that you didn’t wear your dark glasses when using the plasma cutter. To me the “fire “ looks the same as the welder 👨🏭, what’s the difference in terms of eye damage from looking at the light from one versus the other.
i was using the torch. doesnt seem to bother me.
Safety first.
Enjoyed the video J.C 🔧🔩 Interested to see what route you take. Hope you and Mrs.S are doing well 👍
They make a water-proof wax like material you can apply as rust-proofing between frame rails to prevent future rust that won’t wash away.
There is a chart online at Lmt tanks. It shows what wheelbase and the measurements of tank .that helps on setting it up for axle weight. The chart is called the tank wizard.
hello from the Netherlands .
thanks for the video JC .
Sincerely Hollandduck
Have seen a shop that extened frame labled no weld. Can be done if frame is heat treated correctly
Why would you remove the bottom flange of the outside secondary support “old truck frame” vs top flange? Thanks J
if i cut the bottom flange off and installed it that way, imagine how much water, slat and brine solution would get trapped between the two. that is how it is done on all the internationals i have seen with an "L" outer frame.
How do you protect against rust jacking in the future with a new inner or outer insert? Paint?
we have a very simple solution......it will be in the next video.
It's also about European laws, where you can't modify stuff, and because internet, it ends up floating on your side of the pond as hearsay. There are some countries here where registering a modified frame (of any kind) that's not done by the manufacturer or an authorized dealer/shop is... well, might as well try to catch a lightning in a jar.
I can sleep well tonight. That last truck literally gave me nightmares. Good to know it'll be getting done up right (sorry for the owner's time and pocketbook though)
he doesnt have the money to do this. i am fronting the cost and he will pay me back.
Have you though about putting the lift axle to the front side of the drives?
yes. if i put it there, it justb means the drives have to go farther back. i gain nothing. they have to be placed right for proper load distribution.
Thank you for doing it right
Would a possible salvaged frame off a new(er) unit an option?
pickep up frame sections today.
It keeps amazing me how you can do all that work by yourself and the “valuable” help of Your wife. I’m Shute you’re lying to us. You probably have a crew of 5 to 7 people, and every time you are about to shoot a video you kindly ask them to live the shop. Kkkkk greetings from Brazil
no help just us 2. i dont work nearly as hard as my father or grandfather.,
Great camera man
My hubby watches your videos. I have a 92 Freightliner cabover needs a lot of work and needs the frame stretched. We love in Cleveland.Ohio. Family in Canton. So we were excited to see you are close to us. Please let me know if you can do some work for us❤
i get contacted often from folks asking if i would work on their truck. i wish i could help everyone.. i appreciate that folks like yourself are willing to put their truck in my hands but i just cant. im not a repair facility. i am slow and like things a certain way. few people understand just how much time, effort and money it takes to build a truck the way i like to do it. most dont want to invest that much into repairs that they can have done at a repair shop for pennies on the dollar.
Have you heard of alfab. In Columbus ohio. When I worked at Bradshaw we made tanker trucks and if we needed something like that. That is who we used. By the way I've never commented on anything but I like your work and channel. And if you have already thought of them sorry for wasting your time.
called but have not got a return call yet. your not wasting my time. happy to see you in the comments.
I think you’re on the right track. Gotta be strong. I would weld on a good used frame if you can find one.
those needle scalers were built for that work mate, i use mine doing up car trailers
273 x 89 x 9.5mm main frame with 252 x 79 x 6.4mm insert, as-built 🙂 With the 273mm frame, inserts were optional for tanker applications but recommended if used off-road; usually from halfway along the section between the front axle rear hangers and front of the air-ride hangers, to at least the first crossmember behind the bogie. Also it was recommended to solid-mount the tank subframe to angle brackets bolted to the chassis at the rear and at the centre, and use a resilient mount at the front - this was also an angle bracket rigidly bolted to the chassis, but with sprung bolts between the chassis bracket and the tank subframe. This allows the high-tensile steel frame to flex slightly as it is designed to do, without cracking the tank subframe. Please excuse the edits, I had to dig-out my precious copy of the PACCAR Bodybuilder’s Manual, treasured since I worked at Foden - whose chassis were built from the same grade of rails and using many KW/Pete components including the Peterbilt air-ride bogie. Hope that helps 🙂
this isnt even close to 9.5 mm thick frame. the cuttoff frame i am using is thicker. i am lining it for at least 5ft but maybe more. then doing the outer "L" frame front to back.
@@j.c.smithprojects I forgot it was originally a tractor unit 🤦 Possibly 256 x 79 x 8 mm which was common once 300bhp+ high-torque-rise engines becoming the norm (due to the corresponding torque output twisting the rails to an unacceptable degree when working hard). Possibly 6.4mm thick, although that was pretty much obsolete by the ‘80s 🙂 There were several more sizes of rails that didn’t make it to Foden; also we didn’t get aluminium frame rail options due to the whole of the UK being Salt Belt from early November to March-ish 😁
this is 3/16" or 4.78mm thick
The sprung bolt mounting for forward and center tank mounts (rear is generally rigid) is also to as you said allow the truck frame to flex. But as well as to not induce undo flexion to the structure of the tank itself, which can lead to failures of welds on the baffles, leading to leakage or unmitigated fluid motion. "Causing an unsafe condition". This may not be word for word, but is what I can recollect from Curry's body mounting guides..
Is "FLEXION" actually a word?? Spellcheck allowed it, and I ain't an engineer..
JC with box trucks you have can you re use those frame rails to save time and money I did my 71 kenworth using a 4 spring int corporate clip and used mack frame for a liner just an idea
Liner on the inside cross member you can adjust outside then you have to deal with spring hangars and suspension problem cause you are widening the hangars
hangers will accept an outer frame without issue.
@@j.c.smithprojects but you are widening the frame at least a1/4 in rail on each side =1/2 what about the bushings from hangar to rear to springs
@George think about what I mentioned measure measure measure George just wondering have you stretched any trucks tell me where I am wrong trying to learn
this suspension doesnt have bushings in the leaf springs like you may be thinking. they are in a moun ting bracket that bolts to the leaf spring. this mount is adjustable. the bushing and sleeve inside have enough room to accommodate without issues.
Frame stretch done all the time. So many keyboard warriors.
Would POR-15 help with the saving frames and parts if you paint them every year or two?
i have used por 15 twice and with both i ended up with the same results. it came off in sheets. i use acrylic enamel with a hardener on frames with great success.
👍thanks for your hard work and sharing your knowledge 👍🤔you have used bus frames before with a cab swap and the price of steel 🤔
I vote for the cutoff!
Hope it,s better be safe peace