A plastic gear is actually better engineering (not stupid) and has better alignment, binds less. And as long as it is made from a high temperature plastic like Nylon, it can handle a heated chamber. For lubrication/heat conduction, I would recommend adding a very light coat of TinkSeal to the outer edge of that plastic gear, the detent and bronze bushing. I would get a copper block from e3D, and titanium heat break, cheaper and easier. Slice is way over priced. I like the lever because you don't have to keep adjusting your spring pressure. I would much rather have the NF Sunrise than the BQ or Sherpa extruder.
on top of those reasons, which I agree, having a plastic against a metal gear allows you to control where it will wear out, in this case, the nylon gear will be a better fit over time.. not doing this was one of the issues with the Biqu H2..
Depending on the Nylon used in manufacture, Nylon can potentially outlast steel 1000:1. A slight dab of TinkSeal between these two meshing surfaces will insure that the two gears last far longer than originally intended.
You knocked the Sherpa mini for having to unscrew the tension arm and then you knock the NF Sunrise for having a lever to negate that need. Whatever man.
On the Sherpa Mini I wasn't criticizing the breach/tension arm I was criticizing the tight filament path. Even when the arm was being forced open the filament wouldn't smoothly pass through. The tension arm solution generally works well. That's why we keep seeing it on design after design including both these extruders. The NF Sunrise has a whole extra mechanism which locks the tension arm into the open position. If the NF Sunrise had the same tight filament path as the Sherpa Mini, I would have given it the same criticism. That being said, If you expect me to never contradict myself you should stop watching my channel. I change my mind when faced with new/different situation/variables/designs. It's tough to remember the minutia from every review so that I can be perfectly consistent throughout every video. I try to be fair, but I'm human.
Yeah and Nylon can withstand hella heat and in some cases be 100's of times more durable than steel. Seems your more focused on weight and speed (even tho you said yourself it's exceeded the speed you or anyone would normally print at), like this NASCAR or something, instead of PRINT QUALITY. Where's the print demo? It's possible that engineering choices made have effects on final print quality of various materials, that you might not expect based on your ASSUMPTIONS...
Having owned both the BIQU H2 and nf sunrise I can say the sunrise is superior. I've had two BQ's and both have quality control issues. Grinding gears, Prints were never great. Now replaced with the sunrise and wow its so much better! better prints immediately after installing. I disagree with your conclusion on the Bq being better a design - Not having all metal gears is an advantage. The open frame is better. Better stepper. On the BQ if it clogs you have to remove the whole extruder and disassemble. Another thing.. Maybe test them in a printer before you post a review? 🤣
the review is great... except from the nonstop bashing of the "meeeh! chinese copycats!!!" and just by the way: its just fine that the larger gear is ny Nylon blend. This way you prevent binding cause of that tiny bit of flex it allows, it doesnt need lube and hey, not even Bondtech uses metal at this point, (because they are smart, you know) for Flow: just add a copper block and CHT nozzle and print as fast as your printer can run ^^ My Dragon Hotend (normal flow Heatbreak) with Orbiter Extruder and Copper nozzle can print at 250mm/s if i need speed. regular print speed for good looking parts are goin at 150mm/s on my Voron-ified Ender 5 without a hitch and without ringing... cooling is my worst enemy with small parts and have to set a minimum layer time for small stuff.
Well I know you are a designer and not an engineer but please do some research about plastic gears vs metal before you make statements that does not make sense. Also, metal will be affected by thermal expansion in a heated chamber that could affect the functionality. You talk about using this "all metal extruder" in a heated chamber but then you should choose a liquid cooled solution and not fan cooled. Using this in a 80c heated chamber would not be my choice
I don't see that in your heated chsmber you would get to glass transition temp of nylon. If you do, the whole heatsink would warm up to that (because that's the environment temp) and would cause issues with the raw filament you are working with. The lever is a nice thing, yeah it adds a bit if weight but it's essier to change filament, depends on what you want. Also a direct mounting on an ender is a big bonus for a lot of people. Also it's size is compact. Heatcreep you are not able to test that way if the throat doesn't make full contact with the heatsink though, because it's not threaded, and I didn't see you using paste, it might happen.. as for the heatbreak, having the bottom part steel wouldn't consern me, less heat transfered by the heatbreak and you can compensate that lost part of melting zone by using a volcano (which you can order this with)
Nice review! I've been really excited, and waiting, for this review when you mentioned you ordered it a few months back. One thing that I noticed that you did not mention, is that the sunrise is a little less bulky (when compared to the h2), which can help on a corexy printer, so you don't have to worry as much about losing y-axis printing space. Another way to help prevent that the latch door coming out, would be to integrate a little blocker on the exposed side. This could be implemented with your fan duct which I believe you could also Mount at the front. That being said, you are right it's stating that it is an oversight. I'm fairly certain they use Pom or acetal for the plastic gear, which thankfully does have a high deformation temperature. Also, are metal gears actually better? Can't they cause binding like initially with the h2, or other issues or you don't want metal on metal. It also saves a little bit of weight. I wonder how this would do with a volcano block. You would get high or flow theoretically. Not sure how easy it would be to route the cables in a volcano block. Since the wires run vertically and I'm not sure what the clearance is look like on the NF sunrise without actually having it in hand. Hope the transition to the new place is going well! Thanks for this review! Glad to see more content here now that you're settling in a little bit more. As I stated before I love your critical approach. Whether or not I agree with you all the time that's a different story LOL. But I do appreciate when someone nitpicks all of the things because it really draws your attention to potential improvements and the faults of the product itself. Hope you have a wonderful weekend! :D
I can tell you, that I'using this little guy in my diy Corexy with a volcano. It's a tight fit but does work and print performance is excellent. I like the design, build quality and especially the print quality of this extruder. It's running now since 4 months without any issues. Besides the very short path from hotend to gear, another advantage over the orbiter hotend combination is the height, especially in compact setups.
the nylon gear will not fail inside a printed chamber. nylon 6,6 fails at 482c, nylon 12 fails at a temp > 200c, i dont know about warping temps or about other material combinations but if heated metal block goes above 160c then pla will not flow in extruder anyways. so nylon gear should not be a deal breaker, other than metal gear might handle more load.
Between 50° and 100°C Nylon gets a lot softer. The gear is under constant friction and pressure as the printer is running. Look at this graph and tell me that you seriously think Nylon is a fine to use in a critical mechanical element: d2n4wb9orp1vta.cloudfront.net/cms/0811ptMaterials1a.jpg;width=550;quality=60 Nylon at room temperature is stiff enough. Nylon at 100°C is more like TPU. Would you trust your extruder with a TPU gear?
@@DesignPrototypeTest That graph is correct, but the units are taken out of context. 2500 Mpa = 362,594.34433 Psi. 500MPA = 72,518.86887 Psi. Convert 2500 MPa to Psi and vice versa. To find out how many psi in 2500 mpa, multiply 2500 by 145.037737797. You are never going to get your chamber hot enough for that Nylon gear to fail. And that is just Nylon 6. There are far higher temperature Nylon mixes available. So do I trust Nylon at 100°C? Why yes I do.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I think you have Nylon and Delrin mixed up. Delrin/Acetal will begin to soften and fail closer to those temperatures. Acetal has a HDP of 104°C @264psi. www.wshampshire.com/wp-content/uploads/acetal_grades.pdf
@@DesignPrototypeTest This is totaly BS. Bondtech uses a nylon gear. You dont want metal gears on that man. Go google "BTT H2 binding" its a mess. Its noisy and offers no benefit. I print with a heated chamber on my voron....... No issues at all with printed EXTUDERS let along a nylon drive gear.....
Just an FYI, while copper conducts heat better than stainless steel, stainless steel will still get just as hot as copper, it will just take a bit longer. So the point about a copper heatbreak being "better" isn't really accurate. A copper heatbreak will just take less time to get up to temperature. Performance will be the same though. Also the point about the pin near the end is really a none issue honestly. I mean realistically, that pin is never going to move since the "door" will never move. Plenty of other extruder assemblies have pins like that in them, and those are literally never points of failure. If you put the Slice engineering heat block on the nf sunrise, it would also print at 172mm/sec. Just thought I'd add that, since the point about the sherpa mini being a "better" extruder is technically incorrect. That cheap heat block on the nf sunrise is what limits the print speed, not the extruder itself.
I like the plastic gear as an easily exchanged point of failure. The pin seems like it wont be an issue; when it gets hot it will expand. Above all, I ordered this after seeing it bolts directly to my ender 3 pro metal plate. Its the winner imo. Thanks for the review
Knock of this, knock off that. Listen 3D printing wouldn't be nearly as fun if there weren't knockoffs. Moreover, many people can't pay premium prices, often times Chinese copies are better. Triangle labs is a prime exmaple. And first you criticize about the sherpa not having a lever for quick loading, then you criticize the sunrise for having it. And I'm sure that as a tech person you should know that the gear was intentionally made of nylon so the wear was focused only on the nylon and not the other gears. Idk man it's like you're almost there when making these videos, but then you ruin it somehow
5:10 This doesn't make any sense, the heater block will be the hottest part, the threaded part of the heat break will be a bit colder, the straight part of the heat break will be even colder. It seems you don't understand the difference between heat conductivity and temperature
I LOVE that I finally have a technical disagreement. I can't tell you how many comments I get disparaging my person while never addressing the technical statements I make in the videos. Thank you! That being said, You are still attempting to disparage my person by saying I don't understand. Those words make it personal and attempt to make a statement about my value. Very impolite! Even if my statement wasn't correct. How do you know I don't understand?. Are you trying to make me feel bad about myself? Why do you feel the need to break my person down instead of just correcting an inaccuracy? After rewatching the video I do agree with you. The words as I've spoken them are incorrect. I was attempting to make the point that the stainless steel has more poor thermal conductivity than the aluminum hot lock. Therefore, the stainless steel threaded circular chunk will not transmit heat to the filament as quickly as the block. The filament coming down the tube will be stripping the heat away faster than the aluminum hot block can transmit heat through that part. This is the reason why the actual copperhead uses copper for that portion of the apparatus. My apologies that I misspoke in the video. My presentation style is ad libed and prone to this type of error. I do in fact understand the concepts completely, but while trying to explain them to the audience and formulate my sentences at the same time. my cognition gets tripped up in the moment. It's one thing to be able to pass a test on the concepts. It's another thing to be able to empathize with someone who has not yet learned the subject matter. all the while formulating your thoughts as you're speaking them.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I did not mean to be impolite, I'm sorry if you feel that way, that was not my intention, I'm just an engineering coming to the point. About your questions: 1. How do you know I don't understand? You seem to equate (5:02) "low heat resistance" with "low temperature", that is incorrect. 2. Are you trying to make me feel bad about myself? No, I'm only trying to correct a perceived misconception to improve the understanding of this topic. 3. Why do you feel the need to break my person down instead of just correctig an inaccuracy? My intention is only to correct an inaccuracy and give a pointer in the direction of a perceived misconception, purely based on what was said in the video. BTW: I don't think the plastic wheel is an issue, but you can probably easily replace it with a metal one. The lever might not be needed, but helps to keep the clamp tension constant between filament reloads. Keep up the good work!
I'm sorry I won't engage with you any more. You are defending your statement that I don't understand. This is a personal attack. Everything I said from 5:02 through 5:15 is 100% factual and accurate. Think of stainless steel as insulation. Heat from the aluminum hot block will travel very slowly and inefficiently through it to reach the filament. Therefore it is colder than the hot block. Where I misspoke is when I said that it would be colder than the heat sink and copper at the other end. Obviously the "cold end" of the hotend is cooler. I don't know how I got my words so twisted around and missed that statement while editing the video. You are pressing the issue of my understanding not the technical correction. You are just another troll here to break my person down instead of searching for truth. Do it again and I will ban you.
Thanks , It was your suggestion of integrating the stepper parts into the extruder body that inspired the design that I'm playing with at the moment . I've incorporated the stator and rotor of a 32mm stepper and a set of dual drive gears into a MSLA printed body (lots of trouble getting the alignment correct , had to machine the resin parts to get the accuracy) but , i got a very light extruder as a result . Still testing reliability and I am worried about thermal stability.
ive been researching ways to heat resin, or the printer, because most resins want 26c+ to be in the best performance window... its possible your inacuracy is from the resin being a little cold, or perhaps some exposure thing too
@@specialingu yes I'm sure you are right about that Paul. I'm have to heat the whole machine (elegoo saturn) just to get it to print without failure ( .I have it in a cupboard in a unheated conservatory (outside because of the smell!) , but I'm not getting it to anywhere near 26 with my crude fan heater setup. Thanks8-)
@@wktodd I've just modified my halot one, it's got a chamber ventilation fan but I'm going to try it with the fan unplugged and hole taped over, I'm hoping that seals in the smell a fair bit
I think it's an option to put a volcano hot end on this extruder. That should increase the speed of extrusion. Also the door hinge pin may be trapped by mounting that section to the gantry. I am not that put off the nylon gear. I may just order one now that I have seen this review.
@@tommihommi1 be careful torquing them in. They manufactured a relief cut terminating the threads at the base of the hex section that measures about .5mm less than other manufacturer's nozzles. That reduction in OD makes the part considerably weaker to over-torquing the nozzle. I always like to torque the hell out of mine to prevent it coming loose etc. The brass seems softer too. My first one twisted in half leaving only the threads in place and the super soft brass turned effectively into grease inside the heater block when I tried removal tools causing me to have to toss my heater block. I have never twisted a nozzle in half before and I have been printing since 2012. The second one I installed clogged after extruding about an inch of filament and I have burned it with a torch trying to get it unclogged. No dice. Going to have to order an accupuncture needle to see if I can knock whatever is in there loose. It's not burning out. That completely screwed the nonstick coating too BTW. Given that the center is occluded, the accupuncture needle can't go straight in like it normally would from the back. Not sure what I am going to do with that one. I have one more CHT nozzle and TBH I am unsure if I want to screw with it. I am not saying they are bad, but I have not had the best luck with them so far.
Why do you emphasise the fact that you can't use plastic in a heated chamber? You still need the parts cooling duct, and I can't imagine that made out of aluminium. Or did you decide to never print PLA and PETg with that enclosed printer?
The part cooling duct is being actively cooled by the part cooling fan as it does it's job of directing the air at the print. Not only that but the part cooling duct isn't structural or mechanical. It's just a fancy tube for directing airflow.
Hi. I almost talked myself out of commenting but in the latest, muse? You mentioned you read ALL the comments on your you tube channel so..... I'm an early adopter from New Zealand, and down here we buy from China or Australia because the US will send anywhere in the world as long as it's in the 52 states, or at least 50 or so most of the time. I'm not trying to change your whole world view (and gas lighting isn't something I have time or energy for ) but possibly its worth a thought that there are reasons for the China "thing" that are at least partly caused by us (and in c capitals) US. Just a thought. Also as an early adopter I bought an NF sunrise extruder. An awesome extruder for what I bought it for mostly..... But I feel in your review you missed a couple of points that would have helped me (if I hasn't already spent my money). The nylon gear is fine in an enclosure, so far at least, up to 80 degrees Celsius, no issues there at all and I think the metal drive on the stepper and the difficulty lubricating metal gears may have had more to do with the design than the Chinese effect but I'm speculating. The hinge pin hasn't ever moved. And the three screws holding the fan haven't been an issue. However. The stepper has a very fine tolerance between not driving correctly and over heating, especially in an enclosure, the tolerances of the machining around the drive gears is too loose to drive tpu reliably, and there are no high temp cooling fan solutions provided for an extruder that looks purpose built for high temp use. I have used it extensively for nylon and polycarb, carbon fibre loaded etc and it's very good, a highlight being the "useless" loading lever, probably something I would now class as essential especially in an enclosure where one handed loading is the norm. Many more thoughts but I do classify this comment as the "test" phase. Thank you for your insights.
I think there is one major advantage that you haven’t mentioned - there are holes through the CNC-machined aluminium that appear to have the right spacing for mounting onto a Creality carriage plate or - in my case - a Tronxy X5 carriage plate. I mean that the hole spacing seems to mimic those on the original hotend red-coloured heatsink. With the Biqu H2, or a Mosquito hotend for that matter, you have to make up a mounting and this can affect your print area/make it difficult to reach the edge of the bed and, if made in plastic, can distort or wobble. The promise of a nice solid mounting for the extruder and hot end together is enough to sell me on this NF Sunrise. Short filament path and low-profile is also useful for my enclosed printer. There’s a cost advantage over several other hotends, plus the reports many people have had of seizing gears on the Biqu H2. Thanks for a nice review and flow test! :)
I think the plastic gear is an advantage. It separates the heat from the motor and the filament driving gears. Had in the past serious issues with got gears fail to move filament properly.
The pin for the filament breech hatch will not fall out - it is under tension 100% of the time. Filament reloading / handling is infrequent… looking for issues me thinks.
It looks like there is a lot of unnecessary aluminum on it, the Sherpa Mini has much less material despite being made out of plastic. Has anybody maybe tried shaving off some more weight by drilling a lot of holes in it and filing down all the unnecessary material? How much could be saved?
Great review. There is news about the purchase of BIQU H2, now they have started selling new BIQU H2 V2.0. There are certain design changes compared to the original version, and I'm not sure they haven't worsened it.
meh. It looks like they just changed the heater block. Maybe made the throat/heatbreak "all metal" without the PTFE liner. The meat of it will be unchanged because tooling is expensive.
I would think that pin doesn't matter once mounted with a normal motor, plus as you said the fan protects it from falling out, I should think designing it like that probably means cheaper costs The "advantage" was price to performance but I've noticed that the price has doubled since switching to the LDO motor
The quick filament load mechanism reminds me of the voron Mobius m4 extruder. Seems to have the same idea.. not sure if the voron team thought about it first but it's not like they have a patent on it so no problem there. It's a nice design and works surprisingly well
What do you think about using stainless capillary tube to replace the Capricorn tube inside the hotend, also would putting a biqu drive gear in this extruder work?
Hi, I have to build a support for the BIQU H2 in order to fit my Sapphire Plus and my Geeetech A30 (upgraded to linear rails). What material do you recommend? Stainless steel is a bit too heavy or? I have bought two pieces (BIQU Extruders) for my two printers and also a cheap (around 100€) Duet Wifi Board thanks to your recommendations :) Thank you for that, great channel I did learned a lot from your videos!
@@MichaelJHathaway Thank you for the tip. At the moment I have the Saphire Plus stock (only Marlin is installed) working. Can I print Carbon on it? I do have a Copper Nozzle 0,4 from Austria.
@@catalinalb1722 You might be able to, but you would kill your nozzle. So either use a hardened nozzle or plan on replacing your nozzle right after printing the carbon fiber mount.
You could do what I did, pick up some Aluminum, then cut and bend it into shape (replace the hotend mount for my Saphire Plus). If you are using hardware store Aluminum, remember to anneal it first (heat it using a tourch, then let cool slowly), if you don't it will probably crack while being bent.
I totally agree this lever thing should not exist. Not only it adds weight, but also takes quite a lot of space above. It happened so i'm using Sunrise's ancestor, Mellow Aero BMG on my sapphire pro and it was a spacial disaster to make these work without print space sacrifices. What i don't share my opinion on with is a plastic gear ruining the heated chamber usecase (i believe the motor will give up way earlier than a nylon gear under high temperature). I'd say this design is way quiter and cheaper compared to a metal gear, and it also stops heat transition between motor gear/shaft and feeder gear/shaft. Another thing to mention is this metal unit has got a lot less leverage between it's mounting point and nozzle tip than Orbiter derivatives making it more accurate mechanically. And of course, less pushed filament path for more feeding precision and less retractions. Oh and the that pin... It's spring loaded on a long lever side, but i don't think it's ever going out while printing. May be when there's no filament loaded, i suppose... Anyway, nice video! I like where this is going, both your "vibe" and China's progress out of Ender-cloning money stamping action toward something new!
I'd like to see you do some tests with all these extruders using Cht nozzles nozzles, i think it'll blow the speed figures out the water with that simple swap
oh im so glad u got one. im also looking for a good extruder for my enclosed printer ( i think i will end up designing my own with a sla printed gear) i never use any latch to feed filament into my extruders. i just gently press the filament against the extruder gears and press a button to move the extruder and it just bites into the path without issues. this is very important. no filament selectors/feeders( think enraged rabbit) will ever work if this does not works. i dont share your view of the heatbreak . for me it is better to have the m6 threaded part of it made of stainless steel or even tc4. it is better , again for those filament selectors like enraged rabbit. the "ramming" or "tip forming" gcode works a lot better on them. at least thats my experience. do you think you may water-cool mod it? that will be a good video.
i think having a copper thread is better for high flow, but i think the stainless steel tube is full length in these bimetalic heatbreaks, so im not sure how much difference it really makes, probably swapping comprimises, as the all stainless steel is probably less likely to have heat creep
@@specialingu i think that as much as the large threaded part takes heat more efficiently from the steel tube, the short part also conducts heat into the stainless steel part who is into the heat block, better. and i dont like that. i dont wanna use that part as a "melting zone" . if i need more melting zone i use a volcano. ( and i do ) i just need a soft part where to ram the filament so it does not form a thread when i pull it.
If the pin was the only issue it could be 'solved' with something like Loctite 272. I'd rather not use Loctite, but it is designed to keep engine bolts from coming lose, at tempratures over 200C, due to shock and vibration. Sadly I don't know where I could get a metal version of the plastic gear... Unfortunatly this is the issue that keeps being overlooked, and I've see this issue on some of the water cooled systems as well like the Triangle Labs Matrix LC hotend/extruder (haven't seen inside but it look like the retention arm is made out of plastic).
thanks for reviewing this nf sunrise extruder. because i would never be buying it for myself because of other *potentially* better looking chinese metal extruders. but that does not matter since what i wanted to comment about here is more broadly applicable across all in this general category: 1) these metal chinese extruders are definately too heavy. but if you have cnc capabilities, then they can potentially be hogged out a fair bit and the weight reduced to be a lot more reasonable. 2) yeah the plastic (presumed to be a 160c hdt POM gear can we destructively test that?)... that gear is the biggest dealbreaker. however (again?) if somebody has a good enough cnc capabilities (or the ability to print in PEI / ultem?) then it might be possible to replace it somehow? unfortunately in all this longtime i have not seen any metal version of the plastic gear about. AFAICT none is available from anywhere (including bondtech too). so really we want to get onto asking and requesting for metal version the gear itself. since that problem is not going to get solved all by itself. we need to help solve it! actually i am finding recently and in general 3dp manufactures both chinese and bondtech seem more responive and happier to take such feedback in recent months. and be trusting of the nature of the request is to fulfill a real conumer need. so there is some level of a realistic hope to go along with that suggestion. without it feeling like its such a waste of time BTW will you get in andreview the new phaetus rapido? its being sold by trianglelabsright now. who are main reseller for the phaetus company. i believe its well worthwhile to be reviewing FYI
i have never heard anyone whine so much about the plastic gear. they are usually made out of nylon, and what is the melting temp of is ? like 200 C ? dont tell me you have your changer heated more than 90 C. Also, the other reason you wanna have a "plasic" (really a Nylon) gear so that is the weak link. so you dont strip some metal gears. nylon gears are cheap, ez drop in replacement. aslo you can get those gears in metal from same aliexpress. Now, on the sliceengineering topic. i know they are so good and all, BUT, not everyone is that rich to pay import taxes on parts from USA, i rather buy a great chineesium made direct drive like nf sunrise than pay double in taxes and delivery fees. I have been using nf sunrise for a while now, printing at 150mm/s casually. using all metal titanium TB, have not problems what so ever.
Great video again DPT! I would encourage you to take a look at the Takoto hotend in one of your upcoming videos. I use a lot of GF/CF filaments at very high speeds (250+mm/s) and the Mosquito & Dragon heatbreaks both kept failing (brazing/swaging would wearout and leak between the copper & SS) on me and my business partner. In our experience, we've found the Takoto has none of these issues due to it's clever new spin on the heatbreak construction and we've pushed 40+mm/s^3 no problem. Would love to see what your thoughts are on it, since i know you actually, you know, test things before putting a video together unlike other channels.....
Every time you bring up that "nylon" gear...... come on. And slice? Come on man.... Patent trolls who think they invented everything. The nylon gear is 100% fine. This is totaly wrong. Im printing on my voron with 80c internals. WIth a PRINTED extruder with no issues... yet you think a formed nylon gear is gonna melt? lol Come on. In NO way is the BTT better. None. It has huge QC issues and binding problems BECUASE of the metal gear. 40G makes F all differance when pushing massive speeds. LOL come on man. On a standard flow hotend... this is normal. your math is wonky. This is not the way to measure it. You do flow with what gets extruded . This review is absolutely WRONG. The BTT is in NO way better. Like none. I have both. Absolute nonsense. Keep waseting you money.
To keep Vorons working requires constant tinkering. You say you're printing without issues. I highly doubt that. The reason bamboo is taking over the industry is because when they say it just works...It. Just. Works. There's a big difference between "100% reliable" and "you can get away with it"
![[FULL EP.16] เซียนพาลุย "เผือก-ฟรอยด์" กรี๊ดลั่น จนปูหนี | เฮ็ดอย่างเซียนหรั่ง | One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FsqUvwS3b-Y/mqdefault.jpg)
A plastic gear is actually better engineering (not stupid) and has better alignment, binds less. And as long as it is made from a high temperature plastic like Nylon, it can handle a heated chamber. For lubrication/heat conduction, I would recommend adding a very light coat of TinkSeal to the outer edge of that plastic gear, the detent and bronze bushing. I would get a copper block from e3D, and titanium heat break, cheaper and easier. Slice is way over priced. I like the lever because you don't have to keep adjusting your spring pressure. I would much rather have the NF Sunrise than the BQ or Sherpa extruder.
Exactly! Also if that gear has problems the fans would have too as they are also made of plastic.
I tend to agree
on top of those reasons, which I agree, having a plastic against a metal gear allows you to control where it will wear out, in this case, the nylon gear will be a better fit over time..
not doing this was one of the issues with the Biqu H2..
Depending on the Nylon used in manufacture, Nylon can potentially outlast steel 1000:1. A slight dab of TinkSeal between these two meshing surfaces will insure that the two gears last far longer than originally intended.
Bullshit!
You knocked the Sherpa mini for having to unscrew the tension arm and then you knock the NF Sunrise for having a lever to negate that need. Whatever man.
On the Sherpa Mini I wasn't criticizing the breach/tension arm I was criticizing the tight filament path. Even when the arm was being forced open the filament wouldn't smoothly pass through. The tension arm solution generally works well. That's why we keep seeing it on design after design including both these extruders. The NF Sunrise has a whole extra mechanism which locks the tension arm into the open position. If the NF Sunrise had the same tight filament path as the Sherpa Mini, I would have given it the same criticism. That being said, If you expect me to never contradict myself you should stop watching my channel. I change my mind when faced with new/different situation/variables/designs. It's tough to remember the minutia from every review so that I can be perfectly consistent throughout every video. I try to be fair, but I'm human.
Yeah and Nylon can withstand hella heat and in some cases be 100's of times more durable than steel. Seems your more focused on weight and speed (even tho you said yourself it's exceeded the speed you or anyone would normally print at), like this NASCAR or something, instead of PRINT QUALITY. Where's the print demo? It's possible that engineering choices made have effects on final print quality of various materials, that you might not expect based on your ASSUMPTIONS...
Having owned both the BIQU H2 and nf sunrise I can say the sunrise is superior.
I've had two BQ's and both have quality control issues. Grinding gears, Prints were never great.
Now replaced with the sunrise and wow its so much better! better prints immediately after installing.
I disagree with your conclusion on the Bq being better a design - Not having all metal gears is an advantage. The open frame is better. Better stepper. On the BQ if it clogs you have to remove the whole extruder and disassemble.
Another thing.. Maybe test them in a printer before you post a review? 🤣
he should call them teardowns or 'I think this is better than the other without doing any test prints'
its titanium thread and not stainless steel.
the review is great... except from the nonstop bashing of the "meeeh! chinese copycats!!!"
and just by the way: its just fine that the larger gear is ny Nylon blend. This way you prevent binding cause of that tiny bit of flex it allows, it doesnt need lube and hey, not even Bondtech uses metal at this point, (because they are smart, you know)
for Flow: just add a copper block and CHT nozzle and print as fast as your printer can run ^^
My Dragon Hotend (normal flow Heatbreak) with Orbiter Extruder and Copper nozzle can print at 250mm/s if i need speed. regular print speed for good looking parts are goin at 150mm/s on my Voron-ified Ender 5 without a hitch and without ringing... cooling is my worst enemy with small parts and have to set a minimum layer time for small stuff.
My voron with a heavy ass SB still prints faster than he is talking 300mms/10000 No issues. 40-50G makes no diff in speed for the most part....
The only advantage I see for the loading lever is that you don't have to "upset" the filament tension if you are having an issue loading filament.
Yep, it's an adjust once and forget
Only?‽??
I think that's kind of a big deal.
please review the lgx lite, it looks to really be something special from the specs ive heard. and possibly the CHT nozzle
Well I know you are a designer and not an engineer but please do some research about plastic gears vs metal before you make statements that does not make sense. Also, metal will be affected by thermal expansion in a heated chamber that could affect the functionality.
You talk about using this "all metal extruder" in a heated chamber but then you should choose a liquid cooled solution and not fan cooled. Using this in a 80c heated chamber would not be my choice
I dont know if someone already mentioned that, but the hot side of the heatbreak is not of steel, its titanium.
I don't see that in your heated chsmber you would get to glass transition temp of nylon. If you do, the whole heatsink would warm up to that (because that's the environment temp) and would cause issues with the raw filament you are working with. The lever is a nice thing, yeah it adds a bit if weight but it's essier to change filament, depends on what you want. Also a direct mounting on an ender is a big bonus for a lot of people. Also it's size is compact. Heatcreep you are not able to test that way if the throat doesn't make full contact with the heatsink though, because it's not threaded, and I didn't see you using paste, it might happen.. as for the heatbreak, having the bottom part steel wouldn't consern me, less heat transfered by the heatbreak and you can compensate that lost part of melting zone by using a volcano (which you can order this with)
where are the tests?
Goodness, I hope they aren't using any kind of thermoplastic on wrapping the wires, the connectors, or the bowden cable. Or the fan.
Nice review! I've been really excited, and waiting, for this review when you mentioned you ordered it a few months back.
One thing that I noticed that you did not mention, is that the sunrise is a little less bulky (when compared to the h2), which can help on a corexy printer, so you don't have to worry as much about losing y-axis printing space.
Another way to help prevent that the latch door coming out, would be to integrate a little blocker on the exposed side. This could be implemented with your fan duct which I believe you could also Mount at the front. That being said, you are right it's stating that it is an oversight.
I'm fairly certain they use Pom or acetal for the plastic gear, which thankfully does have a high deformation temperature.
Also, are metal gears actually better? Can't they cause binding like initially with the h2, or other issues or you don't want metal on metal. It also saves a little bit of weight.
I wonder how this would do with a volcano block. You would get high or flow theoretically. Not sure how easy it would be to route the cables in a volcano block. Since the wires run vertically and I'm not sure what the clearance is look like on the NF sunrise without actually having it in hand.
Hope the transition to the new place is going well! Thanks for this review! Glad to see more content here now that you're settling in a little bit more.
As I stated before I love your critical approach. Whether or not I agree with you all the time that's a different story LOL. But I do appreciate when someone nitpicks all of the things because it really draws your attention to potential improvements and the faults of the product itself.
Hope you have a wonderful weekend! :D
I can tell you, that I'using this little guy in my diy Corexy with a volcano. It's a tight fit but does work and print performance is excellent.
I like the design, build quality and especially the print quality of this extruder. It's running now since 4 months without any issues.
Besides the very short path from hotend to gear, another advantage over the orbiter hotend combination is the height, especially in compact setups.
the nylon gear will not fail inside a printed chamber. nylon 6,6 fails at 482c, nylon 12 fails at a temp > 200c, i dont know about warping temps or about other material combinations but if heated metal block goes above 160c then pla will not flow in extruder anyways. so nylon gear should not be a deal breaker, other than metal gear might handle more load.
Between 50° and 100°C Nylon gets a lot softer. The gear is under constant friction and pressure as the printer is running. Look at this graph and tell me that you seriously think Nylon is a fine to use in a critical mechanical element: d2n4wb9orp1vta.cloudfront.net/cms/0811ptMaterials1a.jpg;width=550;quality=60 Nylon at room temperature is stiff enough. Nylon at 100°C is more like TPU. Would you trust your extruder with a TPU gear?
@@DesignPrototypeTest what type of nylon is gear made? this makes a difference for the argument.
@@DesignPrototypeTest That graph is correct, but the units are taken out of context. 2500 Mpa = 362,594.34433 Psi. 500MPA = 72,518.86887 Psi. Convert 2500 MPa to Psi and vice versa. To find out how many psi in 2500 mpa, multiply 2500 by 145.037737797. You are never going to get your chamber hot enough for that Nylon gear to fail. And that is just Nylon 6. There are far higher temperature Nylon mixes available. So do I trust Nylon at 100°C? Why yes I do.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I think you have Nylon and Delrin mixed up. Delrin/Acetal will begin to soften and fail closer to those temperatures. Acetal has a HDP of 104°C @264psi. www.wshampshire.com/wp-content/uploads/acetal_grades.pdf
@@DesignPrototypeTest This is totaly BS. Bondtech uses a nylon gear. You dont want metal gears on that man. Go google "BTT H2 binding" its a mess. Its noisy and offers no benefit. I print with a heated chamber on my voron....... No issues at all with printed EXTUDERS let along a nylon drive gear.....
Just an FYI, while copper conducts heat better than stainless steel, stainless steel will still get just as hot as copper, it will just take a bit longer. So the point about a copper heatbreak being "better" isn't really accurate. A copper heatbreak will just take less time to get up to temperature. Performance will be the same though.
Also the point about the pin near the end is really a none issue honestly. I mean realistically, that pin is never going to move since the "door" will never move. Plenty of other extruder assemblies have pins like that in them, and those are literally never points of failure.
If you put the Slice engineering heat block on the nf sunrise, it would also print at 172mm/sec. Just thought I'd add that, since the point about the sherpa mini being a "better" extruder is technically incorrect. That cheap heat block on the nf sunrise is what limits the print speed, not the extruder itself.
Very nice video with no whining! More of these, please 🙂
How has this been long term? The stepper is longer on the Sunrise.
The only thing I dislike about this extruder is that I can't use my mosquito hotend on it
You did not weight it?
I like the plastic gear as an easily exchanged point of failure. The pin seems like it wont be an issue; when it gets hot it will expand. Above all, I ordered this after seeing it bolts directly to my ender 3 pro metal plate. Its the winner imo. Thanks for the review
The filament release arm is very useful because having to readjust the spring tension everytime is disgusting.
Knock of this, knock off that. Listen 3D printing wouldn't be nearly as fun if there weren't knockoffs. Moreover, many people can't pay premium prices, often times Chinese copies are better. Triangle labs is a prime exmaple. And first you criticize about the sherpa not having a lever for quick loading, then you criticize the sunrise for having it. And I'm sure that as a tech person you should know that the gear was intentionally made of nylon so the wear was focused only on the nylon and not the other gears. Idk man it's like you're almost there when making these videos, but then you ruin it somehow
5:10 This doesn't make any sense, the heater block will be the hottest part, the threaded part of the heat break will be a bit colder, the straight part of the heat break will be even colder. It seems you don't understand the difference between heat conductivity and temperature
I LOVE that I finally have a technical disagreement. I can't tell you how many comments I get disparaging my person while never addressing the technical statements I make in the videos. Thank you!
That being said, You are still attempting to disparage my person by saying I don't understand. Those words make it personal and attempt to make a statement about my value. Very impolite! Even if my statement wasn't correct. How do you know I don't understand?. Are you trying to make me feel bad about myself? Why do you feel the need to break my person down instead of just correcting an inaccuracy?
After rewatching the video I do agree with you. The words as I've spoken them are incorrect. I was attempting to make the point that the stainless steel has more poor thermal conductivity than the aluminum hot lock. Therefore, the stainless steel threaded circular chunk will not transmit heat to the filament as quickly as the block. The filament coming down the tube will be stripping the heat away faster than the aluminum hot block can transmit heat through that part. This is the reason why the actual copperhead uses copper for that portion of the apparatus. My apologies that I misspoke in the video. My presentation style is ad libed and prone to this type of error. I do in fact understand the concepts completely, but while trying to explain them to the audience and formulate my sentences at the same time. my cognition gets tripped up in the moment. It's one thing to be able to pass a test on the concepts. It's another thing to be able to empathize with someone who has not yet learned the subject matter. all the while formulating your thoughts as you're speaking them.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I did not mean to be impolite, I'm sorry if you feel that way, that was not my intention, I'm just an engineering coming to the point.
About your questions:
1. How do you know I don't understand? You seem to equate (5:02) "low heat resistance" with "low temperature", that is incorrect.
2. Are you trying to make me feel bad about myself? No, I'm only trying to correct a perceived misconception to improve the understanding of this topic.
3. Why do you feel the need to break my person down instead of just correctig an inaccuracy? My intention is only to correct an inaccuracy and give a pointer in the direction of a perceived misconception, purely based on what was said in the video.
BTW: I don't think the plastic wheel is an issue, but you can probably easily replace it with a metal one. The lever might not be needed, but helps to keep the clamp tension constant between filament reloads.
Keep up the good work!
I'm sorry I won't engage with you any more. You are defending your statement that I don't understand. This is a personal attack. Everything I said from 5:02 through 5:15 is 100% factual and accurate. Think of stainless steel as insulation. Heat from the aluminum hot block will travel very slowly and inefficiently through it to reach the filament. Therefore it is colder than the hot block. Where I misspoke is when I said that it would be colder than the heat sink and copper at the other end. Obviously the "cold end" of the hotend is cooler. I don't know how I got my words so twisted around and missed that statement while editing the video. You are pressing the issue of my understanding not the technical correction. You are just another troll here to break my person down instead of searching for truth. Do it again and I will ban you.
How hot a chamber are you going to put it in ???
Thanks , It was your suggestion of integrating the stepper parts into the extruder body that inspired the design that I'm playing with at the moment . I've incorporated the stator and rotor of a 32mm stepper and a set of dual drive gears into a MSLA printed body (lots of trouble getting the alignment correct , had to machine the resin parts to get the accuracy) but , i got a very light extruder as a result . Still testing reliability and I am worried about thermal stability.
ive been researching ways to heat resin, or the printer, because most resins want 26c+ to be in the best performance window... its possible your inacuracy is from the resin being a little cold, or perhaps some exposure thing too
Definitely send me some photos or better yet some video if you get it working!
@@specialingu yes I'm sure you are right about that Paul. I'm have to heat the whole machine (elegoo saturn) just to get it to print without failure ( .I have it in a cupboard in a unheated conservatory (outside because of the smell!) , but I'm not getting it to anywhere near 26 with my crude fan heater setup. Thanks8-)
@@DesignPrototypeTest will do, Thanks.
@@wktodd I've just modified my halot one, it's got a chamber ventilation fan but I'm going to try it with the fan unplugged and hole taped over, I'm hoping that seals in the smell a fair bit
Could you test the Tokota hotend it is claimed to be the best and highest flow. I'd love your thoughts
You have not considered the length/height of the extruder and the price. Sunrise is shorter and cheaper that genuine mosquito with copper block.
2:14 Don't you find the filament diameter pushes the gear teeth apart?
I think it's an option to put a volcano hot end on this extruder. That should increase the speed of extrusion. Also the door hinge pin may be trapped by mounting that section to the gantry. I am not that put off the nylon gear. I may just order one now that I have seen this review.
volcano is obsolete thanks to Bondtech CHT
@@tommihommi1 I have three of the CHT nozzles. They have their issues too IMO.
@@MisterDeets elaborate? I'm about to buy a bunch of them. Maybe we need a CHT Volcano :D
@@tommihommi1 be careful torquing them in. They manufactured a relief cut terminating the threads at the base of the hex section that measures about .5mm less than other manufacturer's nozzles. That reduction in OD makes the part considerably weaker to over-torquing the nozzle. I always like to torque the hell out of mine to prevent it coming loose etc. The brass seems softer too. My first one twisted in half leaving only the threads in place and the super soft brass turned effectively into grease inside the heater block when I tried removal tools causing me to have to toss my heater block. I have never twisted a nozzle in half before and I have been printing since 2012.
The second one I installed clogged after extruding about an inch of filament and I have burned it with a torch trying to get it unclogged. No dice. Going to have to order an accupuncture needle to see if I can knock whatever is in there loose. It's not burning out. That completely screwed the nonstick coating too BTW. Given that the center is occluded, the accupuncture needle can't go straight in like it normally would from the back. Not sure what I am going to do with that one. I have one more CHT nozzle and TBH I am unsure if I want to screw with it.
I am not saying they are bad, but I have not had the best luck with them so far.
wow I love this thing 🤤
Why do you emphasise the fact that you can't use plastic in a heated chamber? You still need the parts cooling duct, and I can't imagine that made out of aluminium. Or did you decide to never print PLA and PETg with that enclosed printer?
The part cooling duct is being actively cooled by the part cooling fan as it does it's job of directing the air at the print. Not only that but the part cooling duct isn't structural or mechanical. It's just a fancy tube for directing airflow.
Hi. I almost talked myself out of commenting but in the latest, muse? You mentioned you read ALL the comments on your you tube channel so.....
I'm an early adopter from New Zealand, and down here we buy from China or Australia because the US will send anywhere in the world as long as it's in the 52 states, or at least 50 or so most of the time. I'm not trying to change your whole world view (and gas lighting isn't something I have time or energy for ) but possibly its worth a thought that there are reasons for the China "thing" that are at least partly caused by us (and in c capitals) US. Just a thought. Also as an early adopter I bought an NF sunrise extruder. An awesome extruder for what I bought it for mostly..... But I feel in your review you missed a couple of points that would have helped me (if I hasn't already spent my money). The nylon gear is fine in an enclosure, so far at least, up to 80 degrees Celsius, no issues there at all and I think the metal drive on the stepper and the difficulty lubricating metal gears may have had more to do with the design than the Chinese effect but I'm speculating. The hinge pin hasn't ever moved. And the three screws holding the fan haven't been an issue.
However. The stepper has a very fine tolerance between not driving correctly and over heating, especially in an enclosure, the tolerances of the machining around the drive gears is too loose to drive tpu reliably, and there are no high temp cooling fan solutions provided for an extruder that looks purpose built for high temp use.
I have used it extensively for nylon and polycarb, carbon fibre loaded etc and it's very good, a highlight being the "useless" loading lever, probably something I would now class as essential especially in an enclosure where one handed loading is the norm. Many more thoughts but I do classify this comment as the "test" phase. Thank you for your insights.
I think there is one major advantage that you haven’t mentioned - there are holes through the CNC-machined aluminium that appear to have the right spacing for mounting onto a Creality carriage plate or - in my case - a Tronxy X5 carriage plate. I mean that the hole spacing seems to mimic those on the original hotend red-coloured heatsink.
With the Biqu H2, or a Mosquito hotend for that matter, you have to make up a mounting and this can affect your print area/make it difficult to reach the edge of the bed and, if made in plastic, can distort or wobble.
The promise of a nice solid mounting for the extruder and hot end together is enough to sell me on this NF Sunrise. Short filament path and low-profile is also useful for my enclosed printer. There’s a cost advantage over several other hotends, plus the reports many people have had of seizing gears on the Biqu H2.
Thanks for a nice review and flow test! :)
I think the plastic gear is an advantage. It separates the heat from the motor and the filament driving gears. Had in the past serious issues with got gears fail to move filament properly.
The pin for the filament breech hatch will not fall out - it is under tension 100% of the time. Filament reloading / handling is infrequent… looking for issues me thinks.
It looks like there is a lot of unnecessary aluminum on it, the Sherpa Mini has much less material despite being made out of plastic.
Has anybody maybe tried shaving off some more weight by drilling a lot of holes in it and filing down all the unnecessary material?
How much could be saved?
Great review. There is news about the purchase of BIQU H2, now they have started selling new BIQU H2 V2.0. There are certain design changes compared to the original version, and I'm not sure they haven't worsened it.
meh. It looks like they just changed the heater block. Maybe made the throat/heatbreak "all metal" without the PTFE liner. The meat of it will be unchanged because tooling is expensive.
I would think that pin doesn't matter once mounted with a normal motor, plus as you said the fan protects it from falling out, I should think designing it like that probably means cheaper costs
The "advantage" was price to performance but I've noticed that the price has doubled since switching to the LDO motor
The version with the V6 Hotend is not for maximum flow. There is an extra version you can choose with a Volcano hotend for higher flow operations
The quick filament load mechanism reminds me of the voron Mobius m4 extruder. Seems to have the same idea.. not sure if the voron team thought about it first but it's not like they have a patent on it so no problem there. It's a nice design and works surprisingly well
What do you think about using stainless capillary tube to replace the Capricorn tube inside the hotend, also would putting a biqu drive gear in this extruder work?
Would the best performing mosquito hotend plus those new triple split core nozzles be the ultimate in plastic throughput?
Flying Bear revision 2 with PEI any review please
Just want to point out there is a water cooling block made for E3D Hemera. Should be ideal for a hot enclosure.
you sure its not nickel plated copper not stainless ?????
Hi, I have to build a support for the BIQU H2 in order to fit my Sapphire Plus and my Geeetech A30 (upgraded to linear rails). What material do you recommend? Stainless steel is a bit too heavy or? I have bought two pieces (BIQU Extruders) for my two printers and also a cheap (around 100€) Duet Wifi Board thanks to your recommendations :) Thank you for that, great channel I did learned a lot from your videos!
If you could print your support with a carbon fiber reinforced filament, it would be strong and light weight.
@@MichaelJHathaway Thank you for the tip. At the moment I have the Saphire Plus stock (only Marlin is installed) working. Can I print Carbon on it? I do have a Copper Nozzle 0,4 from Austria.
@@catalinalb1722 You might be able to, but you would kill your nozzle. So either use a hardened nozzle or plan on replacing your nozzle right after printing the carbon fiber mount.
You could do what I did, pick up some Aluminum, then cut and bend it into shape (replace the hotend mount for my Saphire Plus). If you are using hardware store Aluminum, remember to anneal it first (heat it using a tourch, then let cool slowly), if you don't it will probably crack while being bent.
@@DamienRobertsonYYC Thanks for the info.
I see they also did a bit of an FU to Slice Engineering with their CNC pattern for venting in the front....
I totally agree this lever thing should not exist. Not only it adds weight, but also takes quite a lot of space above. It happened so i'm using Sunrise's ancestor, Mellow Aero BMG on my sapphire pro and it was a spacial disaster to make these work without print space sacrifices.
What i don't share my opinion on with is a plastic gear ruining the heated chamber usecase (i believe the motor will give up way earlier than a nylon gear under high temperature). I'd say this design is way quiter and cheaper compared to a metal gear, and it also stops heat transition between motor gear/shaft and feeder gear/shaft.
Another thing to mention is this metal unit has got a lot less leverage between it's mounting point and nozzle tip than Orbiter derivatives making it more accurate mechanically. And of course, less pushed filament path for more feeding precision and less retractions.
Oh and the that pin... It's spring loaded on a long lever side, but i don't think it's ever going out while printing. May be when there's no filament loaded, i suppose...
Anyway, nice video!
I like where this is going, both your "vibe" and China's progress out of Ender-cloning money stamping action toward something new!
I'd like to see you do some tests with all these extruders using Cht nozzles nozzles, i think it'll blow the speed figures out the water with that simple swap
Just drop a dab of loctite on there to keep it in? Or yes captive.
oh im so glad u got one. im also looking for a good extruder for my enclosed printer ( i think i will end up designing my own with a sla printed gear)
i never use any latch to feed filament into my extruders. i just gently press the filament against the extruder gears and press a button to move the extruder and it just bites into the path without issues. this is very important. no filament selectors/feeders( think enraged rabbit) will ever work if this does not works.
i dont share your view of the heatbreak . for me it is better to have the m6 threaded part of it made of stainless steel or even tc4. it is better , again for those filament selectors like enraged rabbit. the "ramming" or "tip forming" gcode works a lot better on them. at least thats my experience.
do you think you may water-cool mod it? that will be a good video.
i think having a copper thread is better for high flow, but i think the stainless steel tube is full length in these bimetalic heatbreaks, so im not sure how much difference it really makes, probably swapping comprimises, as the all stainless steel is probably less likely to have heat creep
@@specialingu i think that as much as the large threaded part takes heat more efficiently from the steel tube, the short part also conducts heat into the stainless steel part who is into the heat block, better.
and i dont like that. i dont wanna use that part as a "melting zone" . if i need more melting zone i use a volcano. ( and i do )
i just need a soft part where to ram the filament so it does not form a thread when i pull it.
Resin makes terrible drive gears. There is no issue with the drive gear. His info is wrong.
@@maxkool007 vacuum enclosed prints are getting my attention now.
i must design another one!!
If the pin was the only issue it could be 'solved' with something like Loctite 272. I'd rather not use Loctite, but it is designed to keep engine bolts from coming lose, at tempratures over 200C, due to shock and vibration.
Sadly I don't know where I could get a metal version of the plastic gear... Unfortunatly this is the issue that keeps being overlooked, and I've see this issue on some of the water cooled systems as well like the Triangle Labs Matrix LC hotend/extruder (haven't seen inside but it look like the retention arm is made out of plastic).
most likely its a "standard" gear, probably the biggest hassle would be identifiying it, if mellow wont say what it is
If you want copperhead performance on this platform just get the full bimetal version of their heatbreak and a copper block.
thanks for reviewing this nf sunrise extruder. because i would never be buying it for myself because of other *potentially* better looking chinese metal extruders. but that does not matter since what i wanted to comment about here is more broadly applicable across all in this general category: 1) these metal chinese extruders are definately too heavy. but if you have cnc capabilities, then they can potentially be hogged out a fair bit and the weight reduced to be a lot more reasonable. 2) yeah the plastic (presumed to be a 160c hdt POM gear can we destructively test that?)... that gear is the biggest dealbreaker. however (again?) if somebody has a good enough cnc capabilities (or the ability to print in PEI / ultem?) then it might be possible to replace it somehow? unfortunately in all this longtime i have not seen any metal version of the plastic gear about. AFAICT none is available from anywhere (including bondtech too). so really we want to get onto asking and requesting for metal version the gear itself. since that problem is not going to get solved all by itself. we need to help solve it! actually i am finding recently and in general 3dp manufactures both chinese and bondtech seem more responive and happier to take such feedback in recent months. and be trusting of the nature of the request is to fulfill a real conumer need. so there is some level of a realistic hope to go along with that suggestion. without it feeling like its such a waste of time
BTW will you get in andreview the new phaetus rapido? its being sold by trianglelabsright now. who are main reseller for the phaetus company. i believe its well worthwhile to be reviewing FYI
Great, technical review. Thanks! I was looking into this extruder as a possibility to try... I'll pass now!
i have never heard anyone whine so much about the plastic gear. they are usually made out of nylon, and what is the melting temp of is ? like 200 C ? dont tell me you have your changer heated more than 90 C. Also, the other reason you wanna have a "plasic" (really a Nylon) gear so that is the weak link. so you dont strip some metal gears. nylon gears are cheap, ez drop in replacement. aslo you can get those gears in metal from same aliexpress.
Now, on the sliceengineering topic. i know they are so good and all, BUT, not everyone is that rich to pay import taxes on parts from USA, i rather buy a great chineesium made direct drive like nf sunrise than pay double in taxes and delivery fees.
I have been using nf sunrise for a while now, printing at 150mm/s casually. using all metal titanium TB, have not problems what so ever.
Great video again DPT! I would encourage you to take a look at the Takoto hotend in one of your upcoming videos. I use a lot of GF/CF filaments at very high speeds (250+mm/s) and the Mosquito & Dragon heatbreaks both kept failing (brazing/swaging would wearout and leak between the copper & SS) on me and my business partner. In our experience, we've found the Takoto has none of these issues due to it's clever new spin on the heatbreak construction and we've pushed 40+mm/s^3 no problem. Would love to see what your thoughts are on it, since i know you actually, you know, test things before putting a video together unlike other channels.....
Slap a revo on it!
It sad to see that theys skip on small things
Every time you bring up that "nylon" gear...... come on. And slice? Come on man.... Patent trolls who think they invented everything. The nylon gear is 100% fine. This is totaly wrong. Im printing on my voron with 80c internals. WIth a PRINTED extruder with no issues... yet you think a formed nylon gear is gonna melt? lol Come on. In NO way is the BTT better. None. It has huge QC issues and binding problems BECUASE of the metal gear. 40G makes F all differance when pushing massive speeds. LOL come on man. On a standard flow hotend... this is normal. your math is wonky. This is not the way to measure it. You do flow with what gets extruded . This review is absolutely WRONG. The BTT is in NO way better. Like none. I have both. Absolute nonsense. Keep waseting you money.
To keep Vorons working requires constant tinkering. You say you're printing without issues. I highly doubt that. The reason bamboo is taking over the industry is because when they say it just works...It. Just. Works.
There's a big difference between "100% reliable" and "you can get away with it"
sᴜᴘᴇʀ 🤤🤤🤤