Thank you very much. I tried for a complete day to remove the valve guides the 'official' way. That night I found this. My guides were really stuck. It took a pounding to get 'em out. Thank you again!
This is basically the only way to get the valves out of an old flathead engine. The v-tool only works when installing new valve,spring, and guide assemblies. In an old engine the guides always seize to the block. The old flathead rebuild books advise disassembly of the valve train this way. Great video by the way.
I might remove old valves like this, but I would never install new valves without the spring compressor (substitutes for the prybar in this video). You will break valueable things...
I feel so sorry for your way of removing flathead valves. You are missing the 3 basic tools. If you hot tank the motor first then just 2 tools should do it. I don't see too many Ford flathead guide pullers anymore but must be some still around. When Flatheads were still common & worked on the valve were no harder to remove than any other valve-in-block engine
Dude! Great job on this. After looking at this, I don't think there's any way that the valves can just get stuck in the closed position like my grandpa says. I mean the camshaft pushes them up. Also, jeez dude did you get that engine from the beach? It looks like there's sand in there LOL.
@63lesabre Well, The older style lifters are solid, so to compensate for the the lash, there is a bolt in the lifter that you can adjust up and down for the valve adjustment. As for the sticking, I've heard the most common problem was that the block could crack and leak coolant in around the valve guide and in around the stem in the guide, thus causing it to rust and corode, so then that would cause the siezing.
I was gonna say :33 So I still don't know how the valves stick inside the flathead. I mean with a splash type oiling system, I'd think that the lifters would be solid and they wouldn't collapse....thoughts?
@63lesabre Another way it could sieze is if water got down threw the intake and into the valve area and sat there for long enough to start working its way down into the guide and rusted. Thats just in theory to me, but since the whole valve system is upside down, it seems possible :)
They never do. I had to use a valve spring compressor bar to compress the springs, remove the keepers, pry the old springs out, withdraw the valve and then tap the guides down and out with an old socket and extension.
He should have removed the spring after removing the valve then pound the valve guide down. The way he did it the valve guide was in the way. He was able the pry the spring out but it would have had more room if he had removed the spring before getting the valve guide in the way.
Man there are a lever" V"tool suitable for disambling the valve guide removing the Key of guide and retire the entire valve and guide from the engine Procedure for 59AB engines with guide dividide in halves
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Thank you very much. I tried for a complete day to remove the valve guides the 'official' way. That night I found this. My guides were really stuck. It took a pounding to get 'em out. Thank you again!
Thanks man could only find the older mushroom ended valve videos. Glad i found yours
Turn down the radio when making a video. Thanks
This is basically the only way to get the valves out of an old flathead engine. The v-tool only works when installing new valve,spring, and guide assemblies. In an old engine the guides always seize to the block. The old flathead rebuild books advise disassembly of the valve train this way. Great video by the way.
compress the spring with a pry bar remove the clip and it all comes out as an assembly
I might remove old valves like this, but I would never install new valves without the spring compressor (substitutes for the prybar in this video). You will break valueable things...
I feel so sorry for your way of removing flathead valves. You are missing the 3 basic tools. If you hot tank the motor first then just 2 tools should do it. I don't see too many Ford flathead guide pullers anymore but must be some still around. When Flatheads were still common & worked on the valve were no harder to remove than any other valve-in-block engine
Doing it all wrong.proper tools make it easier.pull whole assembly out.
Dude! Great job on this. After looking at this, I don't think there's any way that the valves can just get stuck in the closed position like my grandpa says. I mean the camshaft pushes them up. Also, jeez dude did you get that engine from the beach? It looks like there's sand in there LOL.
if I have a stuck lifter, can I just remove the valve and guide then pound down on the lifter after soaking with penetrant oil?
@63lesabre Well, The older style lifters are solid, so to compensate for the the lash, there is a bolt in the lifter that you can adjust up and down for the valve adjustment. As for the sticking, I've heard the most common problem was that the block could crack and leak coolant in around the valve guide and in around the stem in the guide, thus causing it to rust and corode, so then that would cause the siezing.
@chudm71 I tryed that before, they seemingly dont like to come out easy, thats why I hammered it out
I was gonna say :33 So I still don't know how the valves stick inside the flathead. I mean with a splash type oiling system, I'd think that the lifters would be solid and they wouldn't collapse....thoughts?
what is that white powder all over the place?
You are doing it the wrong way 😬
@63lesabre Another way it could sieze is if water got down threw the intake and into the valve area and sat there for long enough to start working its way down into the guide and rusted. Thats just in theory to me, but since the whole valve system is upside down, it seems possible :)
They never do. I had to use a valve spring compressor bar to compress the springs, remove the keepers, pry the old springs out, withdraw the valve and then tap the guides down and out with an old socket and extension.
An engine with 3 main bearings certainly will last forever. Of course, the valve guides are very robust as well. If I had one I'd treat it with Cerma.
@chudm71 oh yeah I will for sure, just waiting for winter to pass so I can get back to working on it :)
He should have removed the spring after removing the valve then pound the valve guide down. The way he did it the valve guide was in the way. He was able the pry the spring out but it would have had more room if he had removed the spring before getting the valve guide in the way.
@63lesabre LOL, I was playing around with the sand blaster on it :)
@JamesBondSim9 Also, does that sand blaster work well? And you forgot to say, "So ummmmm. Yea," at the end LOL
I have the valve tool for taking this apart
Man there are a lever" V"tool suitable for disambling the valve guide removing the Key of guide and retire the entire valve and guide from the engine Procedure for 59AB engines with guide dividide in halves