So on a flathead do you only adjust (grind) the valves during the initial assembly and then never again? I'm coming from Chevy 235s where they have to be done every tune up
Cool device. How would the clearance be ground in the old days? I'm guessing that most mechanics in the 1930s would not have had a grinder with a micrometer adjustment.
That sure is a good looking engine; clean as a whistle. Intelligent device you've made there. Now to find a shortcut for setting the valves on a Jag dohc engine without having a shipping crate full of shims! LoL
Not familiar with the engine, but im guessing it has typical bucket type followers with shims? I once seen a clever set up that used a screw n wedge system in the bucket the set clearance , no shims...i forget who it was now
Aw, common Bruce, you know what FUN it is to set up a Jag head! Ha..... We stand the head upright, use a bit of grease to hole the shim to the lifter, and then cut the stem to length, then put the head together. I'm hoping this tool will even make that job easier. Why is it as you get older you tend to work smarter??? Duh....
that is a really clean motor. and the block is in very good condition too. these must be quite scarce now? could this be one of the French manufactured flathead blocks?
Excalibur they’re not that rare the Flathead has always had a following. A new block is actually in the process of being designed and may soon begin manufacturing.
As a Flathead, enthusiast, John. That looks real handy. A question for you, if I may? The mushrroom footed valve, & two piece guide. Better than the original, setup? IE; better contact with the lifter, or not?
That was the original valve. It's just a pain getting the guide out and in each and every time. but they work just fine. As for me, I would rather have adjustable lifters.
I dont see the difference whether you register from the head or the face? in this case here that you did. you could grind off .009 no matter where its registered from....i like the tool and you do have a little better more consistent surface measuring from the face...id still go to it over a surface plate lol
bubster1981 But lugging that surface plate around is real bitch sometimes. Not only that, but you've gotta have a vernier height gage or some other something to hold the indicator. But hey, use what you have, they all work.
@@bubster1981 if you had to grind the face to reduce clearance it wouldn't work, for overall length if your clearance is too small then your idea would work.
+fiatnutz are the OE styled ones better for performance being a solid piece? or there isnt much difference between the adjustable and solid lifter in this engine application?
The newer style adjustable solid lifters are better as the ones that have the openings clear thru the sides as well as the ones w/ the depressions on the side walls allows more oil to coat the lifter bore walls. Plus you have the ability to adjust the valve clearance w/o having to remove the valve from the block. The other advantage of the lifters with either the holes thru the side or even the side depressions is...if you predrill a hole thru the side of the lifter bore hole in the lifter valley, it allows you to slide a pin in to prevent the lifter from rotating as you turn the adjustable threaded head on the lifter to get your valve clearance. A real time saver.
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I overhauled my one only flathead 8 back in 1973. Too much fun. This video brought it all back to me.
So on a flathead do you only adjust (grind) the valves during the initial assembly and then never again? I'm coming from Chevy 235s where they have to be done every tune up
Cool device. How would the clearance be ground in the old days? I'm guessing that most mechanics in the 1930s would not have had a grinder with a micrometer adjustment.
Fantastic. Thank you for sharing.
That sure is a good looking engine; clean as a whistle. Intelligent device you've made there. Now to find a shortcut for setting the valves on a Jag dohc engine without having a shipping crate full of shims! LoL
Not familiar with the engine, but im guessing it has typical bucket type followers with shims? I once seen a clever set up that used a screw n wedge system in the bucket the set clearance , no shims...i forget who it was now
bubster1981 It could only be used with full turns of the screw +/- .002 limitation
bubster1981 GM used this on the Vega and the SOHC Pontiac engine from the 60's.
Aw, common Bruce, you know what FUN it is to set up a Jag head! Ha..... We stand the head upright, use a bit of grease to hole the shim to the lifter, and then cut the stem to length, then put the head together. I'm hoping this tool will even make that job easier. Why is it as you get older you tend to work smarter??? Duh....
wow, that motor is hella clean.
excellent video. what a wonderful aid to grinding valves.
that is a really clean motor. and the block is in very good condition too. these must be quite scarce now? could this be one of the French manufactured flathead blocks?
Excalibur they’re not that rare the Flathead has always had a following. A new block is actually in the process of being designed and may soon begin manufacturing.
As a Flathead, enthusiast, John.
That looks real handy.
A question for you, if I may?
The mushrroom footed valve, & two piece guide.
Better than the original, setup?
IE; better contact with the lifter, or not?
That was the original valve. It's just a pain getting the guide out and in each and every time. but they work just fine. As for me, I would rather have adjustable lifters.
Saludos desde los mochis sinaloa mexico.
Kool tool, you never used a surface plate and height gauge before this?
That won't work because you have to register from the valve face, not the total length of the valve. Good idea, just won't work in the case though.
I dont see the difference whether you register from the head or the face? in this case here that you did. you could grind off .009 no matter where its registered from....i like the tool and you do have a little better more consistent surface measuring from the face...id still go to it over a surface plate lol
bubster1981 But lugging that surface plate around is real bitch sometimes. Not only that, but you've gotta have a vernier height gage or some other something to hold the indicator. But hey, use what you have, they all work.
@@bubster1981 if you had to grind the face to reduce clearance it wouldn't work, for overall length if your clearance is too small then your idea would work.
if you don't like grinding valve stems just get yourself some Johnson type lifters...
The question then becomes how often do you need to adjust the Johnson style lifters?
Not very often, if at all. Set the johnsons with loctite and you are good to go. Until, of course, the next valve job.
Slick John
excellent thinking
Can't get thru to ya on phone what's up with that
Use an adjustable lifter, and scrap the two piece guide
👍
Couldn't you just use an adjustable lifter?
Tim Fox Yes, but the client wanted the OE style lifters.
+fiatnutz are the OE styled ones better for performance being a solid piece? or there isnt much difference between the adjustable and solid lifter in this engine application?
The newer style adjustable solid lifters are better as the ones that have the openings clear thru the sides as well as the ones w/ the depressions on the side walls allows more oil to coat the lifter bore walls. Plus you have the ability to adjust the valve clearance w/o having to remove the valve from the block. The other advantage of the lifters with either the holes thru the side or even the side depressions is...if you predrill a hole thru the side of the lifter bore hole in the lifter valley, it allows you to slide a pin in to prevent the lifter from rotating as you turn the adjustable threaded head on the lifter to get your valve clearance. A real time saver.
too bad you cant put hydraulic lifters on the motor
ya, hydraulic lifters would never work.
ford is shit! jjaa