Andy Penny I like the design of those spacers with the relieved annular location faces. I understand why the pry notches were added but they would be redundant if an Anti Sieze Assembly Compound (aka Copper Grease) was correctly applied on the mating faces. The electrolytic action that occurs between dissimilar metals is prevented/reduced by anodising because it creates a non-conductive oxide layer on the aluminium but it's still good practice to use Copper Grease on assemblies like this. When electrolysis has taken place between flat surfaces they literally grow together and are a complete PITA to separate.
From experience, even when you use assbly compound they still become tricky to remove after a few years. Even if it's just down to the hub itself rusting and expanding, or the aluminium oxidising and expanding
Yeah I agree, I just didn't want to knock every brand and come across too much in favour of one brand! But yes, I've lost countless hours to spacers that are stuck, of multiple brands!
Radius are for oem and some aftermarket, the ones in the video are radius but it’s probably hard to tell on camera. If in any doubt, whip one of yours out to check before ordering
Fantastic video - thank you! Quick Q: I'm putting the 18" Ronal V6 OEMs on my TT MK1 1.8T Quottro (2002) - will 20mm rears and 15mm fronts also work? I think it will as it's OEM - but wanted to make sure! :)
You cant keep the original bolts unless you use bolt on spacers that then you bolt the wheel to, but you can just get aftermarket locking bolts at the correct length for your application
Hi Bryn I just tried to order from CB but they are only offering tapered bolts on 15 mm but radiuses or tapered on 20mm I assume radiuses is correct fit for both? Cheers buddy great review 👍
There's s couple of V6 rims options, but I'm pretty sure they would all be suitable. If in doubt get one pair of 15 to start with and see how they look, if they look perfect for the rear then you would get 10mm for the front instead
Love these videos. Does anyone know where the Bose amp is located on the coupe on the Mk1? Struggling to find info on Google. Sound has started crackling and head unit checks out fine. I believe it's in the back somewhere but can't find a clear answer anywhere.
I have a TT mk1 190 totaly standard .i find the wheels are wide to start with and you have to be careful you dont kirb them . So what you want to fit spacers for i dont know ?
If you already struggle with the width of the TT then i can see why you wouldn't want spacers. But for people that don't struggle and want the look of the wheels being flush with the arches, and want more grip, spacers are a good choice
In your opinion, does that spacer configuration also look good at stock ride height? I live in the United States and some times do 13 hour drives through the middle of nowhere with my TT - most roads and streets here, including parking lot access ramps and debris-filled highways, are basically built for lifted trucks, so anything remotely sporty (even at STOCK ride height) can scrape and hit speed bumps, and I'm terrified any kind of a drop would put me at risk of ripping the oil pain right off. I LOVE that ride height you got going, but I've been on way too many trips where I'm not sure my TT would be with us anymore if I'd have lowered it one bit...
Good review and info buddy can I ask what size of bolts are on the 15mm ones as the radius bolts are out of stock what's the size in mm of normal oem bolts Cheers buddy
I bought RS4 wheels for my TT mk1 but the wheel pattern is 5x112 and the TT has a 5x100. Do this work for bolt pattern change? Or what do you recommend?
Need help! Please help me clarify this I just got a TT but the wheels has been changed so i am looking for the OEM wheels like yours. I found the wheels that have 5/100 and 5/112 together, i think it is same as your so the original TT wheels only have 5/100 or there is a 5/100 and 5/112?
Ive heard some horror stories using, lets call them basic wheel spacers over hub centric. Where the wheel has come off even with extend wheel bolts! Therefore, always thought anything over 5mm to go for hubcentric. Although these CB auto ones are lovely I must say its still a concern of mine. Any thoughts on this?
These are hub centric. But also, the key thing here, is that the centre of the spacer isn't load bearing, it's for alignment. None hub centric spacers can sit off centre and cause vibrations, which is the only issue with them. The wheel stays on because of the friction between the faces from the clamping force of the bolts, not because of a small lip
@@BWSTT Thanks for your reply, I think whenever I have thought about hub centric the spacers bolt onto the hub and then the wheels bolt onto the spacers! Think we shall invest when funds permit. Thanks again
![Audi TT - Installing Bimecc Wheel Spacers [WHAT NOT TO DO!] 😳😳](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GxS1Y5zF5Iw/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | with Moowan ( Bacon Time Vs Talon )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CCEDhu6dPN8/mqdefault.jpg)
Just fitted these, looks epic! (And seems to have fixed the weird knocking noise 😂) Thanks
Heres a tip. If u want a lug pattern change, then those adapters function as spacers too.
Andy Penny I like the design of those spacers with the relieved annular location faces. I understand why the pry notches were added but they would be redundant if an Anti Sieze Assembly Compound (aka Copper Grease) was correctly applied on the mating faces. The electrolytic action that occurs between dissimilar metals is prevented/reduced by anodising because it creates a non-conductive oxide layer on the aluminium but it's still good practice to use Copper Grease on assemblies like this. When electrolysis has taken place between flat surfaces they literally grow together and are a complete PITA to separate.
From experience, even when you use assbly compound they still become tricky to remove after a few years. Even if it's just down to the hub itself rusting and expanding, or the aluminium oxidising and expanding
It's not just the cheap wheel spacers that are hard to get off - H&R and Eibach spacers are a pain to remove too if they stick to the wheel hub.
Yeah I agree, I just didn't want to knock every brand and come across too much in favour of one brand! But yes, I've lost countless hours to spacers that are stuck, of multiple brands!
The wheel fitting rod inside the spare wheel parts in the back can make fitting wheels very easy. I didn't know what that thing was used for lol
It's easy anyway lol but yes it's useful
Good recommendation, great product thank you.
Great!!!! Just when I am fitting them in mine!
Hi. Great vid. Looking at the cb auto site. Do I need radius nuts as the ones in the vid had what looked like a taper. Thanks !
Radius are for oem and some aftermarket, the ones in the video are radius but it’s probably hard to tell on camera. If in any doubt, whip one of yours out to check before ordering
My only concern here is potential bodywork damage caused by gravel being thrown up round the wheel arches.
Great vid mate! Next mod on mine when I get chance I reckon!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic video - thank you! Quick Q: I'm putting the 18" Ronal V6 OEMs on my TT MK1 1.8T Quottro (2002) - will 20mm rears and 15mm fronts also work? I think it will as it's OEM - but wanted to make sure! :)
Yeah that’ll work just great!
@@BWSTT Thank you so much! Top man! :)
Any recommendations for spacers where you want to keep the original bolts /locking bolt
You cant keep the original bolts unless you use bolt on spacers that then you bolt the wheel to, but you can just get aftermarket locking bolts at the correct length for your application
My TT Mk1 rear tires are boeing out, what brand of camber kit do you recommend and can you make a video on how to do it?
Did that car have standard rear arms, camber looks a bit off or is it not too much of a worry when dropped 40mm as opposed to extreme lowering?
Hi Bryn I just tried to order from CB but they are only offering tapered bolts on 15 mm but radiuses or tapered on 20mm I assume radiuses is correct fit for both? Cheers buddy great review 👍
better than TPI spacers i bought !!!!
how many millimeters is recessed?
i have the v6 rims on my 225. the car is lowered 25mm do i get the same ones as you also 15mm for the front and 20mm for the rear.
There's s couple of V6 rims options, but I'm pretty sure they would all be suitable. If in doubt get one pair of 15 to start with and see how they look, if they look perfect for the rear then you would get 10mm for the front instead
I was looking at getting the stance coilovers, but would a set of 40mm springs be just as good if my shocks are still sound?
I daresay just springs will be comfier
@@BWSTT Cheers Bryn.. be cheaper too!
Love these videos. Does anyone know where the Bose amp is located on the coupe on the Mk1? Struggling to find info on Google. Sound has started crackling and head unit checks out fine. I believe it's in the back somewhere but can't find a clear answer anywhere.
Drivers side (UK) behind the passenger door card, right by where the seatbelt reel is
@@BWSTT Awesome. Thanks very much! Legend.
Great video, just a quick one, do you recon the same set up you have in the video but with 235/40/18 tyres would fit? Ta bud
Yup fits no problem
How was the wear on your tire?
No different
I have a TT mk1 190 totaly standard .i find the wheels are wide to start with and you have to be careful you dont kirb them . So what you want to fit spacers for i dont know ?
If you already struggle with the width of the TT then i can see why you wouldn't want spacers. But for people that don't struggle and want the look of the wheels being flush with the arches, and want more grip, spacers are a good choice
Question, where are you jacking the car up at the back? never seen that before.
On the toeing eye
In your opinion, does that spacer configuration also look good at stock ride height?
I live in the United States and some times do 13 hour drives through the middle of nowhere with my TT - most roads and streets here, including parking lot access ramps and debris-filled highways, are basically built for lifted trucks, so anything remotely sporty (even at STOCK ride height) can scrape and hit speed bumps, and I'm terrified any kind of a drop would put me at risk of ripping the oil pain right off.
I LOVE that ride height you got going, but I've been on way too many trips where I'm not sure my TT would be with us anymore if I'd have lowered it one bit...
Yeah its still an improvement visually, even at stock height
Hi were all the bolts the same size you used to put them back on with, thanks
Watch at 1:05
Good review and info buddy can I ask what size of bolts are on the 15mm ones as the radius bolts are out of stock what's the size in mm of normal oem bolts
Cheers buddy
You'll want 43mm so 45 since no one does 43
@@BWSTT sorry mate 7 months late but just noticed this reply better late than never lol 👍🏼
Thank you
I bought RS4 wheels for my TT mk1 but the wheel pattern is 5x112 and the TT has a 5x100. Do this work for bolt pattern change? Or what do you recommend?
adapters
Shouldn’t you use a longer wheel bolt?
Yes.... The spacers come with longer bolts which were fitted in this vide
Need help! Please help me clarify this
I just got a TT but the wheels has been changed so i am looking for the OEM wheels like yours. I found the wheels that have 5/100 and 5/112 together, i think it is same as your so the original TT wheels only have 5/100 or there is a 5/100 and 5/112?
If your wheels have multi fitment then they aren’t oem. I’ve got a set for sale that need a refurb, get in touch if you want them
@@BWSTT the one that you are going to sell is the 5/100 & 5/112 or only 5/100? Is it possible to ship to Thailand?
@notthapholkanchanapitaks3723 5x100. I didn’t realise you were in Thailaind, shipping would be prohibitively expensive I would have thought 🤔
@notthapholkanchanapitaks3723 I’ve just done a quote, it would cost £300 just in delivery for bare wheels!
Say bro can I use 15 inch wheels on a slick what size would that be be best for my 01, TT mk1?? Thanks for your time
15 won’t clear the standard brakes
? what brake spec's do I go with if you don't mind me asking you ? thanks
if it's been lowered don't the rear wheels pitch in at the top? and adjustable tie rods are required?
Not at all mines lowered 40mm with the same size spacers and it hasn't rubbed once.
@@theCinator not the spacers kiddo the way the wheel is aligned from lowering
@@Nrgodzilla ah right I assumed you were asking about spacers mate. Yes the lower you go the more the rear wheels tilt inward.
Ive heard some horror stories using, lets call them basic wheel spacers over hub centric. Where the wheel has come off even with extend wheel bolts! Therefore, always thought anything over 5mm to go for hubcentric. Although these CB auto ones are lovely I must say its still a concern of mine. Any thoughts on this?
These are hub centric. But also, the key thing here, is that the centre of the spacer isn't load bearing, it's for alignment. None hub centric spacers can sit off centre and cause vibrations, which is the only issue with them. The wheel stays on because of the friction between the faces from the clamping force of the bolts, not because of a small lip
@@BWSTT Thanks for your reply, I think whenever I have thought about hub centric the spacers bolt onto the hub and then the wheels bolt onto the spacers! Think we shall invest when funds permit. Thanks again
@@tomdowdeswell they're classed as bolt on spacers, which are a good option when going over 20mm
Boy, my Audiis the same color
wow the number plate is blurred, I can't even read it :)
Do you ever actually smile on your videos.
Yep
What are the specs of you wheels?
OEM 9 spoke, ET33 18" 8J
Приму в дар Ауди ТТ N8 в стоке любую даже разобраную