Great video, especially since you noted it was your first video. You are a very good teacher and leaving nothing to guess about. Maybe the best video I have seen where you explain all the important information without drawing things out too far. Great job!
Thanks for your kind words Kent. When I made this video, there was only a couple others available...Rob's videos on the hinge with his process he learned from the man that taught him...and on on Pask Makes. To me, Pask's was a bit more "user friendly" and Rob seemed to want to sell his tool for drilling the holes in the dowel segments, which is fine with me as I'm a capitalist as well however, I don't like spending that much on a tool for such a singular purpose. I also found the "pins" technique to be harder to manage and weaker than my "single rod" method. I'm thinking of making another revised video on this because I've since developed a few techniques and changes than make it easier and, for me at least, easier.
I haven't watched the whole thing yet, but already put a thumbs up for you. I have watched a few other videos using the style of box hinge and so far you have shown things they have not.
Thanks so much for that. There was a lot I had to figure out on my own so I wanted to make sure to include much of that. I'm thinking about another video on what I've learned and developed since then.
Wow! After just watching some dude cut a dovetail joint in the most ridiculously complicated way imaginable THIS was super cool. Talk about adding a new dimension to your average box! Well done.
Thank you for sharing your methods. I enjoyed this. I especially liked how you showed the fine details of applying the glue, marking the dowel etc and explained why. It is these things which I find very helpful. It is often these details which separate a master from a competent woodworker. Thanks again.
Very fine video, instruction, execution. I want to add, a great looking box. I would really love to see it after it’s finished. All told fantastic, thank you for sharing.
Very nice work, got to show more though. Wanted to see back area closer where trough was. Great start for 1st video. Ill be watching more to support ya.
Good video dude. I appreciate your attention to adhesive containment. Also a full hinge pin provides a nicer alignment of the hinge pieces plus adds more strength to the hinge. Well done Sir.
An amazing compliment Rick...thank you very much. The changes I made were based on two things, postal service mishandling, and working with the tools I had on hand. Also, a lot of repetition.
WOW man...... Just WOW...... THAT IS HARDCORE..... I have a question if you could please find the time to answer I would be MOST grateful... WOULD this work on a box with an interior lining of cedar... I am doing a Humidor for a friend and he wants invisible hinges... I have a hard time thinking this would work with the interior lip needed to create a SOLID seal for humidity... Do you have any thought on this?
I offer a humidor with my hinge and latch and inlaid handles. It's fully cedar lined and CXs tell me it holds moisture very well. Here's a link to it... www.crowscreekcustoms.shop/product-page/primarius-cigar-humidor Thanks for watching and commenting.
Well done for your first video! I've watched a few videos about making wood hinges, as others have said, I like this route. For one, it would be better suited for longer hinges and it takes out the pain of drilling long holes. Glue up looks a little tricky. One thought, before installing the rod, if you put wax on the rod, should be easier to put in the segments and a smoothly hinge action after you are done? Just thinking. It turned out very well. :)
Thanks for watching and for the feedback. Waxing the rod works just as you mentioned and in some cases, especially when the rods come a couple thousandths thicker than usual, it can be essential to just getting the dowel reassembled. The reason I don't do that unless I need to is that even the tightest rod fit makes for a smooth operation of the hinge due to the torque imparted into the center axis of the assembly itself once it's completed. However, it DOES get rid of most of any hinge squeak that might be there in the end. Also, I usually use Oddie's Oil for finishing the hinge itself inside the box and that also helps. I plan on making another hinge video pretty soon to highlight how my process has evolved...I hope you can look forward to that.
Wonderful job. I've watched your working video, which I learned the way of making wooden hinges. Thanks I could see many details. I'll give it a try later and after success I'll call you teacher. And I could see your full looks. Probably almost in my ages? Please be happy with TH-cam activity. Thanks again for your helpful video.
Thanks so much for watching and thanks for the compliments J. I really hope you'll give it a try. I'm very sure you can do it. And, I'm 49 years old...been working with wood since I was 12. Soooo long. And I still have all my fingers! :O
Mr Dean, I am in the process of trying to make a box like yours with the hinge and was thinking ahead of the process you use for the finish without causing the hinges to stick or get into some kind of a bind. Thanks so much and Happy New Year.
Hey Tom...I use lacquer inside and outside of the boxes now. I finish the inside surfaces, assemble the box, cut off the lid, and then lacquer the lid edges. Once those are finished, I cut the back edges for the dowel...this bares the wood for glue where needed for the dowel and prevents glue from sticking anywhere else. As for the hinge INSIDE the box that's only visible when opened, I use Odie's Oil for that.
Well...I would be concerned with the capillary action of the CA glue escaping containment. The wax is there to repel the water-based glue away from the places we don't want it to get into. CA glue will soak in and travel down the grain itself BELOW the surface of the wood. However, give it a shot and see, it might be just fine.
Is there anything I should consider in terms of dowel diameter with respect to the wall thickness of the box? Your box wall seems to be somewhere between 5/8 and 3/4 - what if my box wall is going to be closer to 1/2" - what would be an appropriate diameter dowel for that case? Thanks for sharing your talent and your process.
Hey John. Thanks for watching and commenting. My boxes are made with .5" walls. In the video, my dowel is also .5". However, I've since switched to using .375" dowels with the .5" thick box walls. I now only use .5" dowels when I'm working in .75" thick box walls.
Wow, that is very cool. With the dowels fitting so tight on the brass rod , I thought the glue joint might fail. How do you determine dowel size and segment length for different size/thicknesses? Is there a formula you use. I really like this. Excellent work.
Hey Mike...thanks so much. As to segment size...the limit is how deep I can drill without bit drift...I try not to exceed segment lengths longer that two inches. I use 3/8" dowels in Half inch thick material now...in the video the dowel is .5". I have no formulas BUT, your dowel needs to be equal to or less than your box's wall thickness to work properly.
Hi Roland. Have you ever tried to see if you can make an invisible hinge that didn't go all the way to outside of box. Sort of a stopped dado hinge. Is it possible? Have you ever tried making an invisible hinge with dovetailed corners?
Hey Mr. Rick. That actually doesn't really work. It won't work because the corners beyond the ends of the hinge are crashed in the closed position. HOWEVER, if you chamfered out from the hinge dowel on the lid and the bottom, it would no longer crash BUT, then you'd have a visible line.
Hello there and thanks for watching. I test cut scraps for a couple reasons but mostly to verify the fence setting because that tells me how close to 90 degrees the hinge will open once completed. I like for my hinges to open just shy of 90 degrees so this setting is pretty crucial for my process.
YES you CAN use a drill press since a drill press is so very similar to a lathe, just vertical instead of horizontal. I used a technique once with the press and it worked fine.
Thanks for the view commish. The 1/8" inch rod was my choice because of a few factors. It was small but not TOO small and still rigid and strong. It's not going to rust since it's bronze...AND I can cut the hinge out if I ever need to without fear of hitting a steel rod...ALUMINUM would do well also but it costs more and isn't as easy to get hands on for me. ALSO, the drift on an 1/8" drill is FAR less than the smaller sizes so I get a better result drilling the segments out. I have now changed to 3/8 dowels because that's easier cutting the grooves and hides better. The rods now are WAY tighter in the wood and I have not changed my drill...I think the manufacturer changed their process and they are a couple thousandths bigger than before. Thanks again for the view and I hoe you can watch others and subscribe as well. I only have a few left to get to 1000 subs and I'd love to get there soon.
Hey Tom, that is a great question and a tricky one too. Since I've switched to using 3/8", I HAVE noticed that the dowels get "buried" about 2/3rds into the back of the box. I have a JessEm router table now and with the 3/8 bit, I set the bench at 1/8 back from zero. HOWEVER, I ALWAYS use scrap first to set both lateral and vertical depth before I start cutting into my hero piece...just to be safe. Thanks for the comment and for watching my video.
@@rolandgdean I am going to try to make a wooden hinge and use your video. There has to be a formula as to how far the dowel is out of the box to maintain the correct opening of the lid for each size of the dowel. I will also use several scrap pieces I am sure. I am guessing of course but you would think a 1/4 of the distance of the dowel circumference would move the lid 90 degrees so, in my calculations, a 3/8" dowel is 1.1775" in circumference divided by 4 gives me .294375 so that would be the amount sticking out. I know I am crazy.
@@imanutnur7 Something else...I think of it in terms of radius and diameter, since we have a center axis point and percentage "buried". I'm thinking that about 85% buried would get the lid opening 90 degrees. So, the center of the BIT would be "about" 35% of the diameter of the dowel from the back edge of the box. >.< This maths hurts my brain this early in the day...lol.
Roland, i'm a bit late to this party, and will give this a go very soon. But when you were routing out the recess for the dowel, why did you leave a slight gap between the lid and the base, why not give 1 more pass on the router, thus making the gap between the lid and base invisible?
Great question RL. That tiny gap is something I learned from experience with these hinges. The lid, since it's made from wood, can sometimes warp UP at the front of the box. If there is NO GAP at the back, the front of the lid can LIFT OFF, leaving a, sometimes very visible, gap at the face of the box. This tiny gap at the back prevents that from happening. HOWEVER, you CAN do as you mentioned and make it super tight. Sometimes they don't move.
Thanks Richard! I take that was a HUGE compliment as I admire Mr. Cosman a lot. I guess it might seem that way because I've done a LOT of these hinges now and it just gets easier every time.
I will watch this after work. Work (an extension of my job) is what my woodworking jouney turned into..🤦♂️ I mean it helps keep the ship afloat and the tool collection growing but,....
@@Mr_Rick Yeh, I like to think that it's because they get so busy once they have a lot of subs. However, I subscribe to Shogo here on TH-cam and he always response to my DMs in IG and he has 1.5 MILLION subs so...I don't know, I guess it's about the person. I asked Rob a question once about the hinge in regard to the full length pin and he told me that it couldn't be done because the bit would deflect trying to drill all the way through a segment...I just flip the segments and drill halfway...plus, he uses smaller bits too so...I guess it depends. I'm used to figuring out a lot on my own.
@@rolandgdean I once asked him a question but don't often. Especially since once he got snippity and a wee bit condescending when I asked him a question. He's really good but I can do without the attitude.
@@rolandgdean I just took the clamps off my box after hinges being glued up for exactly 3 hours. I have to admit I was a bit anxious expecting the hinges to be locked up from the gluing. I previously did a quick practice prototype and that happened. Well lo and behold! it works and I'm very excited!!
Hi Roland,really enjoyed the video and wll be giving the hinge a try on one of my boxes.Subscribed so looking forward to seeing the handle in use,regard Matthew
That's great Mathew! On the GIANT chest, I had to make a different process since the chest was larger than my router table. THAT was interesting. Thanks for watching the video and the subscription and the LIKE.
Thanks for the compliment. You can see my prices at my Etsy page or my website. Etsy... www.etsy.com/shop/CrowsCreekCustoms?ref=ss_profile Website... www.crowscreekcustoms.com
I have in the past Jeff. I no longer do it that way because I found a tool that work pretty good for that need. I use it to make the size JUST above what I need and sand it the rest of the way. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D5ZT1RR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Since this is youur first video. Project is interesting, well documented by you. However it is highly annoying to see you talking for minutes at a time, and then when you start the actual work you show it in double, triple or quadruple speed. We want to get a picture of what you do and how you do it. Not just an explanation and rush through the execution. If you do the same thing repeatedly you could speedup after the 2nd or 3rd repetition or simply cut out that footage. Viewers have the option to skip ahead or speed up. But we cannot slow down without a horrible loss in quality.
Great video, especially since you noted it was your first video. You are a very good teacher and leaving nothing to guess about. Maybe the best video I have seen where you explain all the important information without drawing things out too far. Great job!
Thank you SO much for your kind words...and thanks for watching. I'm glad it helps.
Very good video. Best hinge, I trying it today. Hard to believe it's your first video.
Thanks and Godspeed in your attempt today.
I have watched several of these videos by different people and I find yours the best at explaining the entire process. Thank you !
Thanks for your kind words Kent. When I made this video, there was only a couple others available...Rob's videos on the hinge with his process he learned from the man that taught him...and on on Pask Makes. To me, Pask's was a bit more "user friendly" and Rob seemed to want to sell his tool for drilling the holes in the dowel segments, which is fine with me as I'm a capitalist as well however, I don't like spending that much on a tool for such a singular purpose. I also found the "pins" technique to be harder to manage and weaker than my "single rod" method. I'm thinking of making another revised video on this because I've since developed a few techniques and changes than make it easier and, for me at least, easier.
@@rolandgdean- Rolan how thick is the material for the box?
In this video, the ,material is 1/2" thick. @@kentsibille6850
@@rolandgdean - thank you! I thought it might be. I just retired and I’m looking to spending time in my shop doing things like you do.
Sound amazing @@kentsibille6850
Explained very well and very methodical, thank you very much
I really appreciate that. Glad you found it helpful. Thanks also for watching and commenting.
I haven't watched the whole thing yet, but already put a thumbs up for you. I have watched a few other videos using the style of box hinge and so far you have shown things they have not.
Thanks so much for that. There was a lot I had to figure out on my own so I wanted to make sure to include much of that. I'm thinking about another video on what I've learned and developed since then.
Love your videos!!! Please don’t take this one down as I am really wanting to try making one
I am so glad you are enjoying my videos! I appreciate the support. I've no plans to take anything down.
Wow! After just watching some dude cut a dovetail joint in the most ridiculously complicated way imaginable THIS was super cool. Talk about adding a new dimension to your average box! Well done.
Top five comment there! Thanks for the compliment and for commenting.😁
Thank you for sharing your methods. I enjoyed this. I especially liked how you showed the fine details of applying the glue, marking the dowel etc and explained why. It is these things which I find very helpful. It is often these details which separate a master from a competent woodworker. Thanks again.
Wow! Amazing and generous words Steve! Thanks so much and thanks for commenting.
Fantastic video. Best wood hinge video by far. Thank you much.
Wow! Thanks Vincent...that's a great compliment and I appreciate it.
Thank you for the best wood hinge video and tutorial I have seen
Thanks SO much Dennis. I really appreciate that. Thanks for watching.
I've seen many videos on making hidden wooden hinges, but yours is really perfection
Well, I appreciate the compliment Lenny. I worked really hard on it.
Other than stealing it from Rob Cosman?
Very fine video, instruction, execution. I want to add, a great looking box. I would really love to see it after it’s finished. All told fantastic, thank you for sharing.
Thanks Roland, I appreciate the kind words. If you want to see more, you can check out my FB page. I have a lot there that isn't here in TH-cam.
Hi Roland,
Well done! You are a very good teacher, and I learned from this excellent lesson.
THANK YOU!
Bill
Thanks for your kind words Bill. I'm glad you watched and found value. I hope you can watch more, like, and subscribe as well.
Very nice work, got to show more though. Wanted to see back area closer where trough was. Great start for 1st video. Ill be watching more to support ya.
Thanks so much!
Good video dude. I appreciate your attention to adhesive containment. Also a full hinge pin provides a nicer alignment of the hinge pieces plus adds more strength to the hinge. Well done Sir.
Thanks so much for your kind words. I really appreciate that a lot. Thanks for watching.
Simply outstanding. You've provided details that no other I've seen has about the hinge construction. I like your approach better than Cosman's.
An amazing compliment Rick...thank you very much. The changes I made were based on two things, postal service mishandling, and working with the tools I had on hand. Also, a lot of repetition.
@@rolandgdean good on ya! I like how you hold all together with one continuous metal rod and clamping so you can position it properly. Excellent.
Thanks again@@Mr_Rick
Okay now, this man is doing work. 🤘🏼 Just caught a new subscriber. Amazing work. Idc about the hair anymore
Thanks Robert. I appreciate that...it means a lot.
WOW man...... Just WOW...... THAT IS HARDCORE.....
I have a question if you could please find the time to answer I would be MOST grateful...
WOULD this work on a box with an interior lining of cedar...
I am doing a Humidor for a friend and he wants invisible hinges...
I have a hard time thinking this would work with the interior lip needed to create a SOLID seal for humidity...
Do you have any thought on this?
I offer a humidor with my hinge and latch and inlaid handles. It's fully cedar lined and CXs tell me it holds moisture very well.
Here's a link to it...
www.crowscreekcustoms.shop/product-page/primarius-cigar-humidor
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Well done. Seems pretty clear and doable. Off to give it a try. Thanks for the help.
Godspeed Neil. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Well done for your first video! I've watched a few videos about making wood hinges, as others have said, I like this route. For one, it would be better suited for longer hinges and it takes out the pain of drilling long holes. Glue up looks a little tricky. One thought, before installing the rod, if you put wax on the rod, should be easier to put in the segments and a smoothly hinge action after you are done? Just thinking. It turned out very well. :)
Thanks for watching and for the feedback. Waxing the rod works just as you mentioned and in some cases, especially when the rods come a couple thousandths thicker than usual, it can be essential to just getting the dowel reassembled. The reason I don't do that unless I need to is that even the tightest rod fit makes for a smooth operation of the hinge due to the torque imparted into the center axis of the assembly itself once it's completed. However, it DOES get rid of most of any hinge squeak that might be there in the end. Also, I usually use Oddie's Oil for finishing the hinge itself inside the box and that also helps. I plan on making another hinge video pretty soon to highlight how my process has evolved...I hope you can look forward to that.
That’s a huge help. And thanks for the quick response.
I'm glad it was helpful.
Thats an awesome build. Love the hinge configuration. Great work..
Thanks so much for the comment and the view.
The best I have seen. Great JOB
@@RobertG-k6d Thanks so much for watching and commenting.
Very nice work, and great vid. Thanks for taking the time.
You're welcome. And thank YOU for liking and commenting and all that. :)
Do you wax the ends of the dowels or worry about the glue getting between the dowel joints or did I miss that in the video thank you..
Thanks for watching my video Chris. I don't wax the ends of the dowels. I've never had a problem with that much squeeze-out at the ends.
Wonderful job. I've watched your working video, which I learned the way of making wooden hinges. Thanks I could see many details. I'll give it a try later and after success I'll call you teacher.
And I could see your full looks. Probably almost in my ages? Please be happy with TH-cam activity.
Thanks again for your helpful video.
Thanks so much for watching and thanks for the compliments J. I really hope you'll give it a try. I'm very sure you can do it. And, I'm 49 years old...been working with wood since I was 12. Soooo long. And I still have all my fingers! :O
One in a million videos...so glad I discovered this! Thank you for sharing this amazing technique! 🙂
What a great compliment! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Wonderful video. Kudos for the Bob Ross thing, never heard his name used as a verb before. 😆👍
BobRoss is all things...-.- lol...thanks for the comment Jack!
How kool is that! nice explanation
Thanks T...I appreciate that.
Great videos, going to have give this a try.
Thanks so much Tom. Glad I could inspire you.
Nicely done! Enjoyed every minute and love the way you explain in detail.
Thanks so much! I worry sometimes about being too verbose...I appreciate the affirmation and thanks for commenting!
Mr Dean, I am in the process of trying to make a box like yours with the hinge and was thinking ahead of the process you use for the finish without causing the hinges to stick or get into some kind of a bind. Thanks so much and Happy New Year.
Hey Tom...I use lacquer inside and outside of the boxes now. I finish the inside surfaces, assemble the box, cut off the lid, and then lacquer the lid edges. Once those are finished, I cut the back edges for the dowel...this bares the wood for glue where needed for the dowel and prevents glue from sticking anywhere else. As for the hinge INSIDE the box that's only visible when opened, I use Odie's Oil for that.
Thank you so much for your input, I will post a pic when I am done with mine, so far so good.
Can't wait to see it @@tomrainwater8824 .
Well done. I have always wondered how to do that. Thank You. Good luck with your channel.
Thanks so much John for commenting and for watching.
Been around products for years but never seen that. Great video for first.
Thanks Richard, I appreciate the compliment.
Would CA glue work? It seems that it would be less messy than they regular glue.
Well...I would be concerned with the capillary action of the CA glue escaping containment. The wax is there to repel the water-based glue away from the places we don't want it to get into. CA glue will soak in and travel down the grain itself BELOW the surface of the wood. However, give it a shot and see, it might be just fine.
Is there anything I should consider in terms of dowel diameter with respect to the wall thickness of the box? Your box wall seems to be somewhere between 5/8 and 3/4 - what if my box wall is going to be closer to 1/2" - what would be an appropriate diameter dowel for that case? Thanks for sharing your talent and your process.
Hey John. Thanks for watching and commenting. My boxes are made with .5" walls. In the video, my dowel is also .5". However, I've since switched to using .375" dowels with the .5" thick box walls. I now only use .5" dowels when I'm working in .75" thick box walls.
Very nice work! Looks great!
Thanks for the compliment AND the comment!
Wow, that is very cool. With the dowels fitting so tight on the brass rod , I thought the glue joint might fail. How do you determine dowel size and segment length for different size/thicknesses? Is there a formula you use. I really like this. Excellent work.
Hey Mike...thanks so much. As to segment size...the limit is how deep I can drill without bit drift...I try not to exceed segment lengths longer that two inches. I use 3/8" dowels in Half inch thick material now...in the video the dowel is .5". I have no formulas BUT, your dowel needs to be equal to or less than your box's wall thickness to work properly.
Hi Roland. Have you ever tried to see if you can make an invisible hinge that didn't go all the way to outside of box. Sort of a stopped dado hinge. Is it possible? Have you ever tried making an invisible hinge with dovetailed corners?
Hey Mr. Rick. That actually doesn't really work. It won't work because the corners beyond the ends of the hinge are crashed in the closed position. HOWEVER, if you chamfered out from the hinge dowel on the lid and the bottom, it would no longer crash BUT, then you'd have a visible line.
Yep. I agree it will bind. A relief would work but then it would be visible. Thx.
Beautiful work ✔️
Thanks SO much. And thanks for commenting and viewing my content.
Very sweet!!
Thanks Paul. I really appreciate you wanting.
Great video. Thanks.
Thanks so much for watching Will.
Hi Roland, great video! When you did a test cut on the scraps, what exactly were you looking for to make sure its set right?
Hello there and thanks for watching. I test cut scraps for a couple reasons but mostly to verify the fence setting because that tells me how close to 90 degrees the hinge will open once completed. I like for my hinges to open just shy of 90 degrees so this setting is pretty crucial for my process.
Nice
Thanks Matt. I appreciate the view and comment.
Instead of using The lathe, can also using a drill press?
YES you CAN use a drill press since a drill press is so very similar to a lathe, just vertical instead of horizontal. I used a technique once with the press and it worked fine.
That was a great video, Thank you very much.
Thanks. I appreciate the compliment.
Excellent video. What type of wax are you using?
Thanks Bill. I use beeswax that I melted into a small jar.
@@rolandgdean Thanks
Well done Sir!
Thanks so much!
Amazing work as always ❤
Thanks. Your support of my channel gives me great energy.
Great videos Roland! How did you settle on 1/8" rods? I saw that they also had 3/32". Just curious. I can't wait to tackle this!
Thanks for the view commish. The 1/8" inch rod was my choice because of a few factors. It was small but not TOO small and still rigid and strong. It's not going to rust since it's bronze...AND I can cut the hinge out if I ever need to without fear of hitting a steel rod...ALUMINUM would do well also but it costs more and isn't as easy to get hands on for me. ALSO, the drift on an 1/8" drill is FAR less than the smaller sizes so I get a better result drilling the segments out. I have now changed to 3/8 dowels because that's easier cutting the grooves and hides better. The rods now are WAY tighter in the wood and I have not changed my drill...I think the manufacturer changed their process and they are a couple thousandths bigger than before.
Thanks again for the view and I hoe you can watch others and subscribe as well. I only have a few left to get to 1000 subs and I'd love to get there soon.
Did you by chance measure the hinge as to how far it is from being flush with the box with the 1/2" dowell?
Hey Tom, that is a great question and a tricky one too. Since I've switched to using 3/8", I HAVE noticed that the dowels get "buried" about 2/3rds into the back of the box. I have a JessEm router table now and with the 3/8 bit, I set the bench at 1/8 back from zero. HOWEVER, I ALWAYS use scrap first to set both lateral and vertical depth before I start cutting into my hero piece...just to be safe. Thanks for the comment and for watching my video.
@@rolandgdean I am going to try to make a wooden hinge and use your video. There has to be a formula as to how far the dowel is out of the box to maintain the correct opening of the lid for each size of the dowel. I will also use several scrap pieces I am sure. I am guessing of course but you would think a 1/4 of the distance of the dowel circumference would move the lid 90 degrees so, in my calculations, a 3/8" dowel is 1.1775" in circumference divided by 4 gives me .294375 so that would be the amount sticking out. I know I am crazy.
@@imanutnur7 It depends on how wide you want your lid to open as well.The deeper it's buried, the less it opens, so it would be a range.
@@imanutnur7 Something else...I think of it in terms of radius and diameter, since we have a center axis point and percentage "buried". I'm thinking that about 85% buried would get the lid opening 90 degrees. So, the center of the BIT would be "about" 35% of the diameter of the dowel from the back edge of the box. >.< This maths hurts my brain this early in the day...lol.
Nice video 👏🏻
Thank you...and thanks for watching and commenting.
Roland, i'm a bit late to this party, and will give this a go very soon. But when you were routing out the recess for the dowel, why did you leave a slight gap between the lid and the base, why not give 1 more pass on the router, thus making the gap between the lid and base invisible?
Great question RL. That tiny gap is something I learned from experience with these hinges. The lid, since it's made from wood, can sometimes warp UP at the front of the box. If there is NO GAP at the back, the front of the lid can LIFT OFF, leaving a, sometimes very visible, gap at the face of the box. This tiny gap at the back prevents that from happening. HOWEVER, you CAN do as you mentioned and make it super tight. Sometimes they don't move.
You make it look easier than Mr Cosman does. How is that possible ?
Thanks Richard! I take that was a HUGE compliment as I admire Mr. Cosman a lot. I guess it might seem that way because I've done a LOT of these hinges now and it just gets easier every time.
I will watch this after work.
Work (an extension of my job) is what my woodworking jouney turned into..🤦♂️
I mean it helps keep the ship afloat and the tool collection growing but,....
Same happened here. The passion turned into a meager living.
How long did you let the glue dry before risking moving the hinge parts?
I give it about 4 to six hours minimum.
@@rolandgdean I want to thank you for being so responsive and helpful. I wouldn't get this kind of support from Cosman. Once again...thank you.
@@Mr_Rick Yeh, I like to think that it's because they get so busy once they have a lot of subs. However, I subscribe to Shogo here on TH-cam and he always response to my DMs in IG and he has 1.5 MILLION subs so...I don't know, I guess it's about the person. I asked Rob a question once about the hinge in regard to the full length pin and he told me that it couldn't be done because the bit would deflect trying to drill all the way through a segment...I just flip the segments and drill halfway...plus, he uses smaller bits too so...I guess it depends. I'm used to figuring out a lot on my own.
@@rolandgdean I once asked him a question but don't often. Especially since once he got snippity and a wee bit condescending when I asked him a question. He's really good but I can do without the attitude.
@@rolandgdean I just took the clamps off my box after hinges being glued up for exactly 3 hours. I have to admit I was a bit anxious expecting the hinges to be locked up from the gluing. I previously did a quick practice prototype and that happened. Well lo and behold! it works and I'm very excited!!
Hi Roland... What two woods did you use to make this box?
Padauk and Maple
Love this ❤
Thanks JK.
what kind of jaws are you using on your headstock chuck to hold that 1/2" dowel?
I don't know off the top of my head but, it holds the 3/8" dowels I use now for this process as well.
your provided links do not appear to work. except the Amazon link. it worked
Looking into that now. Thanks!
Hi Roland,really enjoyed the video and wll be giving the hinge a try on one of my boxes.Subscribed so looking forward to seeing the handle in use,regard Matthew
That's great Mathew! On the GIANT chest, I had to make a different process since the chest was larger than my router table. THAT was interesting. Thanks for watching the video and the subscription and the LIKE.
How do you make your own dowels?
I have another video here on my channel on how I make my dowels. Thanks again for your comments.
Perfect!!
Thanks again.
What is the value of this beauty?
Thanks for the compliment. You can see my prices at my Etsy page or my website.
Etsy... www.etsy.com/shop/CrowsCreekCustoms?ref=ss_profile
Website... www.crowscreekcustoms.com
The etsy link is broken but the shop website link works.
Thanks, I'll look at it now.
Ok, it should work now. Thanks again!
@@rolandgdean Its working again
Do you turn your dowels on your lathe?
I have in the past Jeff. I no longer do it that way because I found a tool that work pretty good for that need. I use it to make the size JUST above what I need and sand it the rest of the way.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D5ZT1RR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
@@rolandgdean My brain is trying to figure out how I can drill the dowels on my CNC 🤣
@@JayBergCustoms I drill press can work pretty well.
Buddys hair darker than mine 😅
Thanks for viewing and commenting.
will you come and organize my garage please.
For a nominal fee of course! lol...thanks for the comment and for watching.
❤👌👍🤝😎
Thanks!
that sound at 27:55........
Agreed...one of my favorite parts. It also make very short little curled shaving that are cool as well.
Very weak audio! crj.
Thanks Charles, all I have is an iPhone. No other AV gear AND it was mu first video BUT, thanks for the input and comment.
Since this is youur first video. Project is interesting, well documented by you. However it is highly annoying to see you talking for minutes at a time, and then when you start the actual work you show it in double, triple or quadruple speed. We want to get a picture of what you do and how you do it. Not just an explanation and rush through the execution. If you do the same thing repeatedly you could speedup after the 2nd or 3rd repetition or simply cut out that footage. Viewers have the option to skip ahead or speed up. But we cannot slow down without a horrible loss in quality.
That is GREAT feedback. I'll keep that in mind going forward.🙏
Thanks for the great tips my friend and thank you Roland for making this video. 😊🌎❤️
@@DeanTheDoctor Thank YOU for watching and commenting!