Teardown of the INFAMOUS Hyundai Ioniq ICCU
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 เม.ย. 2024
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The "Silicone" on the board is polymer and it's called comformal coating. It's a very common thing used in PCB to protect them from moisture\dust etc...
Yeah I've seen it before, didn't know what it was called though, thanks!
@@edsgarage001 also it acts as an electrical isolation barrier that reduces the electrical possibility of electrical arcs between component pins and due to being RoHS compliant product it can help reduce tin whiskers from shorting across pins if they happen
I have a 2023 Ioniq 6. Brought it in for 2 ICCU software updates and everything is fine. I charge at home with an Emporia at 46 Amps and it works perfectly. Hopefully, this will never be a problem. Thanks for posting!
Thx for the comment!
Interesting to see what's inside the iccu. My '22 ioniq 5 awd failed whilst reversing out of a parking bay! Heard a pop from the back seat. Hyundai changed it for revised part. Still love the car and would definitely buy again. Best car I've ever owned!
Yeah, they're awesome. There's a reason they won world EV of the year
Thank you. There’s one negative side of charging with 3,6kW instead of 11kW: it takes longer and the ICCU itself uses about 300W. The longer the charging time, the more energy is used by the ICCU itself and the worse the loss of charge, which can be up to 30% (6A, 240V, 1 Phase) and about 5% with 11kW (16A, 240V, 3 Phases).
Fair enough
I think that the lower expectation of problems associated with charging at 3.9 ( or so) Amps is worth the small loss in efficiency . Although Hyundai should have perhaps indicated something of the sort in their manuals etc. As I charged my original (2017) IONIQ at 30 Amps for six years, I have just continued to do the same with the Ioniq 5, with no problems SO FAR!
I would agree
If you have 3P/400V (3 x 230V) and charge at 3.6kW single phase that's exactly the same load as charging at 11kW 3-phase. If you have 3-phase 400V power (3x230V) as in Europe, you won't have the charging port overheat issue. This only occurs if you suffer from North American Strangeness power. That's because 11kW requires 16Amp in Europe whereas it is 48Amp in NA, and it's the Amps that heat the charge port and everything else as well.
We charge ours at 40A almost daily with no port overheating issues, we have 48k miles on it now so we charge it quite often. One guy who was throttling said he just cleaned the port terminals with a small bottle brush and that dropped the temperature and stopped the slowing. I do put a few drops of contact cleaner on our plug every few months. One issue with low current charging is in the winter the heater and electronics will take more power and the battery won't get as much. I think the coolant leak issue was only on the early KDM Ioniq 5's that came out almost a year earlier, by the time they go to the US that issue was fixed. We got the first ICCU update last summer and now the recent recall update also but no issues with the iccu before or after the update.
Good comment!
Yeah I think a lot of the anger towards Hyundai is still a little unwarranted. Sure it might not sustain 10.9kw for the entire length of charge... But for the most part it's still going to charge pretty quick, with perhaps a few exceptions.
Contact cleaner habit sounds like a good idea. I've been wondering about long term maintenance of my EV's charging port.
@somberrhombus I've been using contact cleaner for years.... Especially when using dusty public stations
I also cleaned the contacts and that cured the overheat
I have a 2023 Ioniq 6. Brought it in for 2 software updates and everything is fine. I charge at home with an Emporia at 46 Amps and it works perfectly.
There are 2 separate issues here which some people are confusing as a single ICCU problem.
Charging at 11kw in North America is charging at 48amps single phase. This sometimes results in overheating of the charge port and throttling of the charging current. This is a problem only in NA.
The random failures of the ICCU due to other reasons is happening to Hyundai group cars worldwide.
I'm glad someone else has pointed this out. While it's interesting to see the teardown, the misinformation about and dismissal of level 2 charging issues in this video does a huge disservice to owners with the problem.
There has been no information from Hyundai indicating that ICCU overcurrent problem is in any way related to the level 2 charging throttling / alarming. To the contrary, the level 2 charging "fix" that added the throttling was an update to a completely different module, not the ICCU.
Not dismissing anything, just providing advice that in my experience at a Hyundai dealership, seems to have helped.
The iccu overcurrent issue can absolutely be helped by lowering the charge current.
Add to that, reducing the current load will also reduce the load on your electrical panel, and the grid in general. There's multiple reasons why it's a good idea.
If you need to charge faster, then do so, you still can.... I even said as much. Sure it's going to throttle a bit.
There have been several theories mentioned as to why these ICCU s are failing. Some of them coming from Hyundai and Kia dealers, but it’s all speculation. They have been failing at random times, but usually while the car is being driven.
12:01 That’s conformal coating. It is usually done to protect from corrosion growth caused by PCB and component contaminants when exposed to humidity.
Thanks!
Nice Video. What I don't understand, the build quality looks really fine. But the repairability is verry bad! Why did they make things so? I'm working for a bus company, and we have electric busses. Of cause, the bus-version of the ICCU is a really big box. But it has a big lid, you can simply open it up! And you have transistor-modules, which are screwed down. Same ist for large capacitators and chokes! You can change them, without even a soldering iron, and repair that thing with a screwdriver. You can even open up the main contactor and change the contact blades, without changing the whole contactor. And you have separate boards for communication, 24 Volts inverter, motor-driver. So even in case of a fault on one board, you only have to change that specific board. The company behind it builds also electrical components for trains, these things can be used for decades... I like electric cars, but they should build the components more service friendly.
Aside from the silicone glue, it was pretty easy to pull apart. But I think you'll find vehicle techs are rarely willing to get this down and dirty to repair. Most will just prefer to component swap.
i've got a kona and we may well share a part. the ICCU is capable of 11KW 3 phase, 3x 16A or 1 phase at 7.2kw or 32A.
as florian has said the ICCU's power drain means that the slower you go the more losses you get as the waste energy to monitor the power etc is fixed at 300W. a 30 % loss rate would be unnacceptable and increase running costs massively.
we've had a coolant recall for this issue in the UK but presumably not a ICCU recall, i dont remember seeing that on the work sheets.
Thanks for the comment.
you are a brave man, ed! thanks for taking the time and trouble.
Haha .. thx for the comment!
I can't pretend to follow much of what was happening in your video, but it was really cool to see it taken apart!
Hey I could barely follow it myself lol 😂😂
The ICCU failed on my 2022 Ioniq 5 SE. Luckily for me - I was close to home and was able to return. The Hyundai Service Department was able to replace my ICCU and update my software. I hope my replacement ICCU is not the same as the original unit.
Should be fine now... Thx for the comment!
Nice to see that!
The coating is to reduce the pollution class. So they can use components with a low pitch distance without getting troubles with conductive particle ;-)
The two small pins on the orange plug are the interlock. The detect a connected mating connector ;-)
The black part on the side from the housing is a pressure valve.
Crazy to see that this unit is build to be repaired (if you use a desolder station 😅)
But adding a thread for every semiconductor is very risky into a casted housing 🫣 every casting blowhole is against you 🤕🔫
Thx for the comment!
Can't wait for the repair your inoiq charge controler for $10 videos in 10 years
I will try the cleaner, nothing to lose.
Tks
Great video Ed.
Thanks man!
Very interesting video thanks for sharing. I see 4 board to board connectors mating the bottom pcb and the second layer pcb. Can you check how tight or are there any loose point in the connection. I am highly suspicious about the connection between the two pcbs.
Thanks!
Everything was actually very tight. Honestly it was very well put together.
@@edsgarage001 Thanks for quick reply! What is the pitch of the connector? 0.05 inch? Are there any cracks in the solder joint between the board to board connectors? Maybe you need to look through a magnifying glass.
Question Ed: do you know if this ICCU module is in the 2019 IONIQ electric? I own one and have been curious about it.
No the 19 has a very different unit.
@@edsgarage001 thank you for that
i've done about 5 replacements of these already 😁 interesting to see, what's in it.
Thx for the comment!
Hey Ed
Interesting content and good to see inside the ICCU - seems to be well made to todays automotive standards.
We now have 4 Ioniq5's in our family/group, ours has the most mileage on it 54,000 km since we bought it on June 29 23. It is a 2022 Ultimate AWD, we charge at 7.2 kw @ 240V (31 - 32 amps) have not had any overheating at the port (checked many times with laser temperature device). And as a coincedence all of us are using the same 32A EVSE in our home installations. No issue at getting a good solid overnight charge and no overheat issues.
I believe the % of cars that have had a problem is very low. The FB and owners group pages make it sound like the majority of cars have a problem but those pages are where people who have a problem are sounding out - justifiably so but it makes the problem look more prevelant than it really is.
In any case we love our I5, one of the best cars we have ever owned and I believe everyone in our "family" who has one feels pretty much the same!
Cheers man!
Mike and Ally 👍
Thanks for the comment Mike!
Good to hear you're enjoying the ioniq 5! Yeah the issue isn't as common as many would have you believe.
Good on you for keeping an eye on temps!
A good contact cleaner spray can help when temps start to climb... Keep the contact clean.
All those capacitors in combination with the rectifier diodes are probably arranged as a ladder type voltage multiplier. This would take the 120V or 240V input and deliver the 800V for the batteries. The large inductors would be needed to filter out the large ac ripple on the dc output under load.
Thanks for the comment!
Interesting. Curious though, all of those so called “diodes” are 3 terminal devices. Perhaps they’re an SCR of some type ( or IGBT) Possible I guess that they could be a back to back diode pair hence the 3 terminals. I expect that there would have to be some switching devices in there if the car can throttle back its own charge rate. Perhaps the rectification is uncontrolled ( plain old diodes) and the charge rate is controlled on the DC side with high speed switching...? Would be great to see an electrical drawing of this thing. Thanks for the peak inside Ed.
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks again for your videos, does the new update of the ICCU will limit the charging at 3,6 Kw? If so it is really disapointing.
No, it can still charge at 11kw. I was just recommending that level.
@@edsgarage001 sorry for my misunderstanding from myself, but for 3,6 kw is not working at all. Thanks again Ed and keep up your good work😊💪
If you drive more then about 200 km a day then yeah you'd need to charge faster
We got this new update and still charges at 9.2kw with no problem.
The "coil block" appears to be mostly potting compound (black in colour, usually an epoxy, and a total pig to remove if needed), which has then been covered in a grey silicone conformal coating, rather than thermal compound. Thermal wouldn't make a lot of sense in that situation; there's no surface to surface contact to transfer the heat away.
Thx for the comment!
Very interesting, thanks for posting….
Thanks for commenting!
14:12 wouldn't those large metal pins rather be the input (240V) to the charger? The current into the ICCU at 11 kW is 48 amps, requiring huge connectors, while 11kW on the DC output at 800V is around 13 amps. This "12V out" you showed on the other side of the board might be the connector to the main battery, a 12V connector would not have the orange "high voltage" color.
The connector that I said was 12v out, and was orange, literally said on the circuit board 12v out.
As for the rest... Yeah I dunno
I think he’s talking about the larger connector that is both large and small pins. 4 of them. He’s right, pin size is determined by current flow and more current on the “low voltage” AC side compared to the 800v out
So what was the actual component in there that failed? Some mosfets?
Honestly, I have no idea.
The mosfets are all contained in that big block that I pulled out. So there wasn't any chance of testing them.
I also don't own the required equipment to test the entire thing either.
What I was expecting, and actually hoping to see was some sort of damage to some of the circuitry, but everything looked fine.
It's entirely possible that this ICCU was replaced unnecessarily, and that the issue was something else entirely.
I am wondering if there are some capacitors buried in that potting compound with the coils; the older OBC failures (early Soul etc), were primarily down to a couple of capacitors blowing.
Not potted, so easy to fix.
Someone else mentioned that there was likely mosfets there
Given his comments about weight, more likely the isolation transformer(s)
@@SkiFletch Yeah, I doubted the MOSFET theory, they would overheat unless they are bolted to the casing underneath.
I am still waiting to get my dead OBC back from KIa, to see if I can fix it and keep as a spare; they said KIA UK might want it back, so they had to hold it for 3 months; that was 4 months ago and they are now claiming they have to hold it till July.
Who wants to bet, they want to fix it themselves and sell it on?
They wouldn't do that at the dealership, I can promise you that.... But if sent back to Kia, then possibly
@@edsgarage001 I dont know, why not just send mine off for a repair then??
The one I got was brand new - all shiny and clean - in a 7 y/o car that has been out of production for 4-6 years.
I believe 30KW version has a slightly different OBC, not sure if it works with the 27KWh battery pack; as it has a higher AC and DC charging capability (7.4 v 6.4 and 75 v 50).
Great video! I have been charging my EV6 at 16 amps 240v for 2 years now and I have never had an issue charging overnight and we drive a lot, about 20,000 miles per year. I don't understand the push for high amp charging considering the added expense and safety risk involved. 16 amp at 240 should be sufficient for almost everyone.
Agreed!
The worst thing is that the iccu failure that I've seen almost happened after charging at home. Some people could only hpc or DC charge but not ac charge. Mine blew up totally. And when driving trough Europe I have to fast charge. It's not dangerous at all.
How much will it cost to change the ICCU after the guarantee runs out?!
Thx for the comment,
The iccu is covered for the same length of time as the battery.... If it's able to last that long, the chances of it failing beyond that are extremely minimal.
However, should the worst occur, this past is about $800, and it's actually pretty easily changeable.
Can the ICCU be replaced? For example put a 11kW 3phase from the Kona into an Ioniq instead of the original 3,6/7,2 kW 1phase?
They're not interchangeable, as the ioniqs have V2L, at least in North America anyway .... But the ioniq can do 11kw as well, but now with the updates it'll throttle lower if it gets too hot.
@@edsgarage001 I didn't mean the Ioniq 5 but the Ioniq classic 38kWh.
@@berny_electric_22I don't think that can be done. The battery is the same as in the 39kWh Kona, which itself was single phase only. The BMS in this battery runs different software than that for the 64kWh battery, possibly even different wiring and/or different BMS altogether. The charger also needs to talk to other components, not just the BMS. These are all connected smart components, it's not like swapping the alternator for a bigger one in your Austin Mini.
This /\
Where is the ICCU fuse located? Is it built into the ICCU unit?
No, it's back side of the battery apparently
@@edsgarage001 Thanks for clarifying. 😊
Great Video, Ed.
Do you see anywhere on those PCBs that has "V2L" word ?
I know that IONIQ 5 sold in South Korea and in Europe have 240V V2L output that is 3.84Kw while IONIQ 5 sold in USA has 120V V2L output that is 1.92Kw.
Does anyone know whether those ICCU in South Korea / Europe IONIQ 5 are the same ICCU in USA IONIQ 5, or they are different ICCU ?
If they are the same ICCU, most likely the V2L voltage difference (120V vs 240V) is a software setting because I do not see any hardware switch or pins in Ed's video that changes V2L voltage.
If the V2L voltage is a software setting, I'd like to know whether IONIQ 5 infotainment system engineering mode can change this V2L voltage setting because I want to change it from USA 120V to EU 240V so that it can be used as a source for level 2 charging in case that my wife's Tesla model Y is out of juice on the roadside, as well as a source to power my house for 3.84Kw, (not 1.92Kw) using a 240V/120V transformer during electricity outages.
Thank you
I didn't see anything related to V2L in the iccu. Considering how large an inverter or converter would be, I suspect there's a second component that takes care of that.
This is the first time I've heard of the L2 charging issue, where the charge can eventually stop or throttle down (after software "fix") to a lower speed, being tied to the ICCU. Every other source of information cites the J1772 receptacle itself as being the cause since that is where the overheating problem occurs when charged at, or close to the 48a rated speed.
There's a few issues related to level 2 charging, heat buildup, and overcurrent.
The iccu also handles the charging .. so if the port temp goes up, the iccu needs to slow the charge.
But the over current problem is solely an issue with the ICCU. But it can also be helped by a reduction in charging current.
Very interesting video Ed and appreciate the quality of the conversation with all participants.
Here in Quebec I took my Ioniq 6 to dealer last week for the ICCU recall and on the very first night of charging while external temperature was 17 celcius, I saw this new message in dashboard saying it was reducing charging speed from 9,4kw/hr to 5,3kw/hr to prevent overheating. Since I did invest in a brand new electrical panel at home when I bought the car, I find it missleading information from the part of Hyundai.
Do you think the Class action litigation that was filed will succeed? I think it would be fair to receive a type of compensation for a product that does not fully deliver what the manufacturer advertised.
Thx for the comment.
Honestly, I don't know if it will succeed.
Have you tried cleaning the charger connection contacts with a contact cleaner? Sometimes that helps
Random fact... Both the high voltage DC and low voltage DC ports are both inputs and outputs at the same time. ;)
The ICCU's controller is run from the 12v system like most things, meaning the 12v battery is used as an input to boot the system. However, it's also the ICCU's job to keep the 12v system charged when the high voltage DC side is active.
That charging of the 12v side can happen either when AC is disconnected and power is being pulled from the 800v battery, or it can happen when the AC line is connected and it's charging the 800v battery. ;)
Cool, thanks for the comment!
i am assuming or pretty confident the 2024 models do not have this issue anymore
So far so good
Basically no other EV throttles AC charging speed. Also, no other EV with J1772 overheats on the charge port. We have two IONIQ 5s and need to charge much faster than 16A. One of ours overheats on 40A. The update is not a real fix.
That's not true man, sorry.
But every EV will throttle charging speeds based on temperature. Sure, some more than others. Some will just stop charging altogether.
The bolt had some charge port over heating issues as well.
No car is perfect though, while other companies may not be experiencing these two specific problems, they're still running into issues of their own.
Original Model 3 bumpers falling off
Bz4x/soltara wheels falling off
Mach-e contactors welding themselves shut
Id4 doors opening on their own, and other various electrical gremlins
Model Y acceleration and braking issues
To name a few. There's many many more.
If 16 amp isn't fast enough .. then charge faster 🤷. I didn't say everyone should, I said everyone should charge only as fast as they need to and no faster.
@edsgarage001 if you give another brand of vehicle that derates when L2 charging other than Hyundai I'd love to hear it.
240°F doesn't SOUND like a safe charging temperature, yet that's what it charges at.
Also literal false advertising. Here's a quote from the Hyundai website, "Approximately 7 hours and 10 minutes to charge from 10% to 100% on a 10.9-kW, 240V AC charger. Actual charging time varies based on a number of factors, including current battery charge level, output of the charging unit, vehicle and battery settings and outside temperature" even though for many people it overheats/derates at ANY temperature.
Clearly a design flaw. The J1772 port on the (both of mine and others on the subreddit) Hi5 is extremely loose. Very poorly manufactured/issue during manufacturing or something.
Here's three examples of vehicles and/or their chargers throttling AC current that aren't Hyundai.
www.macheforum.com/site/threads/l2-charging-speed-recently-dropped-33.28779/
www.reddit.com/r/electricvehicles/comments/110hxlw/chevy_dual_level_charger_plug_melting/
teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/tesla-wall-charger-throttling-current.307004/#:~:text=Anyone%20see%20something%20similar%20on%20their%20Tesla%20Level%202%20Wall%20Charger%3F,-Thanks%20so%20much&text=The%20wall%20connector%20typically%20does,max%20the%20wall%20connector%20supports.
6:14 I think personally that the large connector is the AC input/V2L output, this would make the small pins on top the CP and PP pins.
The 2 empty positions are most likely for the EU 3 phase model.
Thx for the comment
Hej ev6 fra 2023 DK. bruges der 11 /230 volt opladning / hjemme opladning til 100%, hos mig har der ikke været noget fejl på ICCU , har aldrig været brugt til hurtig opladning i min ejer tid, købt fra ny , tak for dine gode videoer Henrik DK.
Thanks for the comment!
Interesting. We’ve regularly charged our 2022 Ioniq 5 at 9.4 and 11 kW for two years without any obvious problems. We had the recent recall software update and so far have not noticed any difference in AC charging.
Not everyone will experience problem. As a matter of fact most won't.
There was a poll on a I5 UK owners Facebook page which found that only 1 in 10 I5s get the ICCU failure. I’m not sure how scientific the poll was though.
@@hishamg Ten percent would be a high failure rate. Unfortunately a Facebook poll is unlikely to provide a representative sample of Ioniq 5 owners.
It's also likely that people who've had the iccu failure are more likely to respond to the poll in the first place. My guess is it's a much lower percentage.
Same for us, we charge at 40A / 9kw almost daily and have zero problems.
Similar part to the OBC (On Board Charger) module in Volvo / Polestar (AC-DC charge management). They also are a known failure point for those vehicles. I'm again surprised that the manufacturers don't allow them to be repaired / remanufactured, although maybe that's because the vendor knows they can make lots of money replacing these when they fail (£2200 in the case of my Polestar which is being done tomorrow under warranty by Volvo). Although this does feel like pushing for right to repair may enable these to be repaired officially rather than just being replaced every time.
Thanks for the comment!
I think if you have a solid state device like this and it lasts throughout the warranty period, it'll probably outlast the car at that point. So I wouldn't be too worried.
Plus they'll be available on wrecked vehicles in salvage yards too worst case.
I'd check the other solid state devices. There should be power MOSFETs lurking around there someplace.
I pulled everything out... If they're in there, then they're in that heavy block.
@@edsgarage001 I should have been clearer. The transistor you bent back, you said was a diode, did you look at the other ones? There should be some MOSFETs in all of those devices. The entire gizmo is nothing more than a SMPS, and there's gotta be switching MOSFETs lurking about.
Those components all looked identical, and googling the part number revealed they were rectifier diodes.... Maybe some weren't, but they looked exactly the same 🤷
At 20:41 and 17:15 can be seen that some of those power semiconductors have some legs in different line. All of power semis have the same package but length of legs differs them. That helps installation in correct positions. Also there are some driver IC (transistors) near some of them.
Great video. Though, your opinion at 5:04, totally disagree with you -- You're describing the scenario I'm in. I don't always need 48A, sure... But Hyundai doesn't say "up to" in the way you're describing. Here's the exact wording from Hyundai USA's website: "240V AC home charging Go from 10 to 100% in about 7 hours. The standard 10.9kW on-board charging unit can accept a Level 2 home charger (not included) to power-up your IONIQ 5." ... and if you read the fine print: "Approximately 7 hours and 10 minutes to charge from 10% to 100% on a 10.9-kW, 240V AC charger. Actual charging time varies based on a number of factors, including current battery charge level, output of the charging unit, vehicle and battery settings and outside temperature. Charging accessory sold separately."
So while I don't always need 48a, or even 40a. I find it incredibly frustrating that if and when I do need a full overnight top-off, it can't happen at 40a or 48a. Real scenario for me... I regularly make a long commute and arrive late in the evening with a very low SoC, and leave the next morning bright and early. The car when I first got it could be fully charged before I wake up. Since the "fix", it's not uncommon for the car to barely be passing 60% SoC by the time I get in. So yeah... I feel a bit lied to when the car could do that the first 6 months I owned it. I shouldn't have to min/max my car charge speeds to avoid a hard to predict threshold for overheating. Somewhere around 35A is where mine will overheat, and that's not something I can easily control on new or unfamiliar chargers. At home I know if I set my charger to 40A, and the car to 90% charge rate, it will max out what I can do...
But otherwise, yeah you're right. Most the time, I can get by on just 32A or less is more than enough for nightly or every other night charging.
Well they did technically say "charging time can vary based on a number of factors"
So the fine print does indeed include the technicality. Though granted, it doesn't include nor preclude the ICCU getting hot as one of the factors.
Anyone saying it will charge at 10.9kw for the entire length of the charge is and has been mistaken, even from the first ioniq 5 to hit a dealer lot. They've actually almost never been able to hold 10.9 kW on charge from 0 to 100% and have always had the ability to throttle when necessary. The problem is they didn't throttle enough.
I've never dealt in absolutes, for this very reason.
But also, even if the battery is charged up to 60%, what are the chances you need to go beyond the 60% battery's capability the next day as well anyway? Sure it might happen from time to time. But realistically how often? Worst case scenario there's always fast chargers.
I've owned an EV for about 8 years now, and not once can I ever remember a time where my 16 amp 3.6 kW hour charger did not give me enough range for the next day, despite on occasion coming home with a near dead battery. And I have a pretty long daily commute...I know my situation isn't everyone's situation, but I feel like that scenario is still incredibly uncommon.
@@edsgarage001 "Approximately 7 hours and 10 minutes to charge from 10% to 100% on a 10.9-kW, 240V AC charger" is a VERY SPECIFIC statement for Hyundai to claim on their website. I hear you, I really do. But there's a huge gap between 7 hours and 10 minutes claim and 13+ hours that I really get. It can be 0F outside, or 110F outside, my car WILL overheat while L2 in about an hour.
Regarding: "But also, even if the battery is charged up to 60%, what are the chances you need to go beyond the 60% battery's capability the next day as well anyway?"
At least once a month I'm in this scenario. Which forces me to have to use a DC charging station. So yeah, Hyundai's claims are a more than a bit exaggerated, and has nothing to do with Star Wars quotes (absolutes). If the ICCU or Chargeport overheats 100% of the time, everytime, then you're just being a PR person for Hyundai for what's ultimately false advertising. This car is barely a couple years old, and the Subreddit has a handful of owners who have cracked 100k miles. Some people, myself included drive a lot (though I'm at 30k in a year of owning it)!
Fair enough!
I'm glad you caught the SW quote lol.
I guess the word "approximately" kind of goes out the window when it adds that kind of total time to charge.
You really are the minority of charging requirements though. Most would do just fine with slower charging.
I agree that if this was the initial expectation by Hyundai, they should have worded things better.
I guess the only solace is to know that this sort of throttling is pretty common amongst the EV world. Perhaps one day Hyundai will find a better fix for the issue.
Small update regarding my car. Hyundai finally agreed that my charge port overheating in 60 minutes is absolutely an issue and will be replacing my J1772 port. Hopefully that resolves that.
Ah cool... I look forward to hearing more
ive done the math in my street, given the contention ratio of the street transformer to homes........EV's would require at least 50% to 70% more capacity in the transformer......and that trickles up to the substation etc. Get used to big fat power bills to install that equipment.
By then, I'll have solar.
But considering how insanely expensive our gas has become, power here would need to go up by about 8 times as much before it cost the same. That's not gonna happen.
Depends where you live of course. But around here, electricity is cheap and gas costs a fortune
It may be a scrapper, but a fantastic source of screws, if nothing else!
Yep, I'll be keeping those lol
And now imagine charging at 11kW with still just 16A :D
At 687 volts 🤔
at 17:20 of the video those like like your power MOSFETs.
Now, if Hyundai could bother to fix the 12V problem by putting in LFP batteries which was originally planned, instead of shitty lead acid batteries that keeps on getting you stranded, especially in the winter time.
That would be a pretty high cost... The cost of the vehicle would go up a thousand bucks if they did that.
But it's an easy aftermarket thing you can do 🤷
Personally I've never had an issue with mine
Unacceptable from a company as big as this one to have parts that would burn out like this. I don't see it happening on tesla's, even much smaller companies that does much faster charging like NIO, Xpeng or Li auto.
At least the bumpers or wheels aren't falling off.
Keep in mind, I don't think this ICCU actually failed after having looked at it. Everything seemed clean.
But yes it's frustrating, however they're by no means the first company to run problems.
Where did they promise 11Kw charging ? I know everyone is saying that but I cannot find it on Hyundai website
In most of Europe we use 3-phase charging in a 230V installation. 3 phases gives us effectively 400V*3, dragging a power of only 13,4A at 11kW charging. This works fine for me. But I hear of ICCU problems in Europe too, so there must be other things to it than just high current on the AC side
@@jenslrkedal9219 yes it is happening in Europe and UK too. many reported for EV6 and Ioniq 5.
@@ianrobins5501 Not many. Only a few for the moment, but I wish they were less.
2022 brochure says that there's a 10.9KW onboard charger. If you search for 2024 brochure, it says the same thing.
Yes I'm in Sweden and mine blew up using the v2l adapter. Weird. I could use hpc or DC charge so I picked up my car. Then the mechanic asked me to plug in the v2l adapter.And then the loud bang under the backseat came and it was bye bye car for 3 months.
I bet this is from my 2020 ioniq 😂 I hope your taking care of of my car 😅
Haha
.. nope, this is from an ioniq 5
@@edsgarage001 oh man not even that ioniq 6 that ran over the brick, did you end up getting that ev batter that they where going to recycle?
Yep... See my other page, all the videos are on Ed's automotive how to.
th-cam.com/play/PLS-I78HBgeYhqMpWtj_LnOcNXIKdu1iUv.html&feature=shared
Thank you for an interesting video. But, you are being a little shortsighted in your assessment on whether cars NEED 11KW charging. You're thinking in terms of having only ONE EV in your garage. I have THREE (including a Kia EV6)!! And, there are times when I need my cars to charge at the rates that they advertised to me and which I PAID FOR so that I can get all three vehicles refueled in a single night.
Thanks for the comment, but you misunderstand my meaning.
Most people can get away with charging at 3.6 kilowatts. Not everyone, and I totally understand that.
But to charge at 11 kW unnecessarily is pointless. You clearly would not be charging at 11 kilowatts unnecessarily, so you don't apply to what I was saying..
On top of that, the updates that Hyundai has done to alleviate this issue do not completely remove the ability to charge at 11 kilowatts either. As a matter of fact it will continue to do so, and only slow down if it starts to get hot. But the majority of charging will still happen at 11 kilowatts.
LoL, its 2 years old. By vehicle and machinery standards its brand new.
To be honest, I don't think there was actually anything wrong with it. I talked with the tech that swapped it, and he Said Hyundai told him to replace it as a precaution. But he figured it was just the fuse on the back end of the battery pack that blew.
What the Hell is an ICCU????!!!! (FCOL!)
Integrated charging control unit.
It's the onboard charger, plus the inverter/converter
Like all this modern stuff it’s way over-complicated for what it does.
존나 비싸 보여서 현대가 무상으로 새제품으로 바꿔주기엔 무리가 있어 보인다.
If it can't handle charging at 11 kW, then it's junk. 11 kW charging is necessary to preheat the car without draining the battery because the heater takes more than 3.6 kW. It's also more efficient because faster charging minimizes standby losses (takes several hundred watts to keep the modules on while charging). Most houses can handle 11 kW load just fine. Hyundai is just being extremely cheap here by not replacing hardware that overheats at rated load.
It CAN and does handle 11kw just fine. Just not all the time. It'll throttle when needed, just like every other EV with up to 11kw charging.
3.6 kw is more than enough to preheat the battery, the cabin and keep charging.. I've done it a thousand times. My car preheats every morning before I go to work, and it's still always at full charge when I leave, even when it's 20 below freezing.
There are still plenty of houses with only 100 amp service. Charging a car at 45 amps is pulling half your panel's capability at that point. Throw an oven on and a dryer at the same time and you're overloaded.
I've seen people pay upward of $10,000 or more to upgrade their home service to 200 amp because an electrician said they had to.... But it's just not needed if you charge at 3.5kw
You're right that it's more efficient, but that's a pretty minor loss to be worried about.
So you want Hyundai to replace every single iccu with a new, redesigned one. Just to satisfy the needs of 5% of owners? Do you have any Idea how much that would cost?
It still charges pretty quick when connected to an 11kw source. Certainly more then quick enough for 99% of people out there. Find me a single individual that has actually been truthfully negatively impacted by reducing the overall speed of AC charging by a little.
@@edsgarage001 People that drive a lot (100+ miles per day) will have trouble keeping their car charged with those reduced charge speeds. Crazypostman has documented his reduced charge speed and how it affects his ability to drive multiple trips in a day. Hyundai doesn't need to replace all the ICCUs, just the ones that have faults, which is what they will do with the recent recall of 147,000 EVs. Same thing with the charge ports, the ones that charge slow under normal temp conditions should be replaced under warranty because they are defective.
The charge port issue can be helped immensely with contact cleaner. We've done it and noticed a huge improvement.
Even with the updates and changes, you can still recharge the entirety of the battery over night on a 10.9kw charge, despite it throttling.
I think those people that are truly having issues keeping up are extremely rare.
No useful information. bummer.
That's what questions are for.
People here can answer questions.
I couldn't see any obvious signs of failure with this unit.
There is a 'Y' in Hyundai.
I say it the way a Korean told me to say it. "Hyundai like Sunday" Though I could emphasize the Y a bit, it's not that important.
But over emphasis of the Y is incorrect. It the UK and Europe no one pronounces it correctly.
Wow this looks very dated compared to Tesla's 😂
I'd still take this over a Tesla
@@edsgarage001 have fun waiting for replacement when it fails...
Anyway, i still hope they fix this. More competition is good. 🙂
I'm not worried about mine failing
But honestly, I've got nothing against Tesla, but recently we ended up wholesaling a model 3 off our lot because the only place that could replace the windshield... Yes the windshield... Was a Tesla repair center about an hour and a half away. And it would have taken 5 months.
@@edsgarage001 not the case here in Germany.
1. I can replace it by independent shops (I can do recalibration myself via service menue. No other brand allows this .)
2. Not longer than usual waiting time
Things are definitely a bit different here
I actually disagree, I think the up to 32a is fine assuming your base voltage is 240. IMHO the biggest issue is that these cars are set up to be charged on three phase power that the rest of the world uses. Pretty much all residential in the US is single phase.
Because of this, there is too much current on one leg going into the car and everything on the changing side Is undersize for single phase charging. As a band aid they are using software to limit charging based on temperature. What Hyundai needs to do is upsize the high voltage charging components to deal with the heat or just derate the car and not charge above 32amps I don't understand why this is so difficult to do.
there maybe some truth to this but in Europe and UK the ICCU are failing on single phase 240V 32A. i read on FB almost every day people are reporting issue and the warning of the ICCU and flat 12v battery on EV6 and Ioniq5
North America is split phase 240v
Single phase would only be 120v
So when I recommend 16amps, 3.6kw, I'm referring to split phase 240v 16amp
At the battery side it's all the same...