Learn hair tones and neutralising colours with the colour star theory
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2024
- Basic tome theory when choosing colours. Often people just apply the colour the clients wants without looking at their natural tones and neutralising them to get a better result. For example if your hair is naturally golden and the client chooses a gold blonde then the colour result will be double golden, therefore choose a violet blonde instead for a cleaner blonde rather than a brassy blonde.
Hi! I’ve watched so many color theory videos and no one explained the decimal numbers & how it helps tone in layman terms. This was such a great help! Now I have the confidence I need to dye my own hair
Amazing lady ! Your tutorial about long graduation hair cut was recommended by my College . I decided to watch more of your tutorials and fell in love ❤ iam going to watch them all . Thank you !
Helps a great deal. Thank you. You are the first one to actually explain in such good detail that makes sense. I now know that I need a blue toner.
How fantastic is this video.Its wonderful.Thanks so kindly for explaining how hair colour is numbered etc.I found out heaps.What a lovely lady.🌷💞
Thank you friend for taking the time to explain this . i bet for all of us still a mystery after many years of doing color there is always something to learn
You’re welcome.
Hi 👋 thank you for this nice video. My natural base is a dark brown and now also gray hair fue to my age. I have been doing red (permanent wine red tones) for quite a bit with some highlights, but I’m tired of red tones. What is the best way for me to go to a light brown (not blondish) and also cover my gray hair? I’m open to suggestions. Thank you in advance for your help.
Hey my name is Maria. You are the great I loved it . Because of your video I learned what are the chart colour and how to use it .
abdullah memon thank you
Omg finally a video thag makes some sense!! Can i ask advice on colour please? Im a natural base of a 5 and have previousley bleached my ends with 30 vol and toned it using an ice white blonde!! However clearly it was too bright as it did nothing and like u said you should use some ash on the hair if you are tryibg to cancel out oranges or yellows.Anyway im looking to rebleach it, so you think i shoukd use 30 again as its been around 6 months since i done it last and i want to get a pearlish blonde (dont mind if its light) just need some advice on a toner that will actually make it a nice pearly or cream beige colour please, thankyou xx
I would use 30vol on the dark hair and 20vol on the hair which is already bleached. Applying the same mixture twice can often damage the hair. You have to get the hair to a level 10 first before applying the toner. This level looks like the inside of a banana. The toner will be a semi permanent colour mixed with 3%. Find one that you like and you will achieve this result as long as its a level 10.
You are very knowledgeable enjoyed listening
Thank you for your positive comment. I have other videos that may be useful to you as well.
Best color advice on the Internet!
Vina Landsford thank you for your kind support.
Hello Lorna, thank you for making this video. I would like to ask a few questions. My base colour is dark blonde and the hairdresser has used Inoa 7 on my hair before (although in the past also 8). I would like to dye my hair myself this time. I have quite some grey in my hair now, although I believe less than 70%. My natural tone is gold which I would like to keep, does that mean I should use 7.3 additionally? So 50% of 7 and 7.3? My ends are quite a bit lighter than the roots. Which colour would you choose? Also, I don't get the developer/oxydant thing, I don't want to go lighter or darker. I pretty much would like to keep my natural colour, just get rid of grey.
One more question: I looked at the colours in an online shop and there's 7 Medium Blonde and 7.0 Medium Blonde Intensive. What is the difference and which one would you recommend?
Sorry for this novella but with lockdown I'd rather not make any mistakes that I won't be able to get fixed!
Yes use 7 and 7.3 mixed together half and half of each. If this is too dark choose the 8.0 and 8.3. Mix them with 6% peroxide. You will need scales for exact measurements. 25g colour and 25g of peroxide. Intensive I presume will cover stubborn grey better. I personally would choose an ash blonde to help remove the gold as it can be quite yellow. So an 8.1 with 8 is better.
@@longalion Thank you so much for the quick and precise answer. Appreciate it a lot!
8 is pearl. It is grey with a purple tone so kills all orange and yellow unwanted tones.
Hairy Lorna
The first number representing the base is it the base you will get from applying the colour or does it represent our natural base? I have really dark black hair what colour number should I consider if I want a rich medium brown but without hint of red tone in it.
Try an ash 5.1 and 6%. To reduce the red even more you need to add a dash of green into the mixture. My identity brand have Dark Shadow ash which is suitable for dark hair too. The colour chart represents the artificial colour bases. But you need to know your natural base to identify the peroxide level. It is confusing if you’re new to colour.
To remember Color star easy way is
RICHARD (red) OF (orange) YORK (yellow) GAVE (green) BATTLE (blue) IN (ignore in) VAIN (violet).
That’s how our teacher taught us so that it’s easy to remember.
How do I use the mix tones to neutralise? For example, my hair is stuck in orange-red limbo after years of dark reds and purples, according to the chart I should use a blue or green mix tone to "neutralise" the orange. What I don't understand, is do I use the mix tone alone before applying the hair colour, or do I mix it in the new dye. If I mix it in the new dye won't it affect the new colour?
Oraianthi Toumazatou if you are trying to remove the red/orange, yes choose a colour which is cool. If however the red still shines through you can add a pure mix tone of green in with the mixture you are mixing, increasing the peroxide measurements if it is 1:1. You need to be aware of the natural colour at the roots as this may be very cool compared to the mid lengths and ends which were red. Without knowing your base and tones to start with to the target colour it's hard to answer. If you just want to go to a base 5, then I would mix a 5.1 with 6%. Good luck.
This is not clear for me to answer. To remove colour you may need to bleach then re-apply the chosen shade. If you don't like the blue you can apply orange in the bowl to counteract the blue. This could be done as a toner or a permanent.
Hello, I have a question. I've been using 7.44, but since I saw there's an oranger color with number 7.45, I ordered it this time. It has a more intense copper shade but it doesn't have red hues, right?
Yes, but all colours contain pigments of the primary colour in some form. So red is basically in orange, but it will shimmer orange. If you wanted more orange there are pure mix tones of pure copper to can add to 7.44. You can add 2 inches to the mixture and it will inject more copper into the colour. Apply the colour you have and see if you like it. The tones will fade and maybe next time try the mixture I suggested if you need more copper. Good luck.
@@longalion thanj you so much for your reply, I'll try it next time 🌸
Hi and thanks for this video.
I would love to know what color i get if i mix 6.0 + blue, im looking for very cool light Brown. My natural color its level 6.0 ash but my ends are 5-4. Do i need to bleach my ends first to get to level 6 ? And for very Nice cool results would be just fine mixing 6.0+blue mixtone or better 6.1+blue? Hope you will answer ☺
Maybe you Can give me advice,as my natural hair color is quite flat which color would be nice for very subtle highlights?
La Monita i
Thank you for the explanation, very helpful.
at the moment my hair is at level 8, it looks like light blonde suits me, but i want it to be ash or silver ash.
8.1 is an ash blonde. However, if you really want the fashion ash/silver then you will need to bleach your hair until you achieve the colour like the inside of a banana (level 10), then apply a silver toner on top.
Hi! So my natural hair is a very dark brown to black and I asked for caramel highlights from my hairdresser and he ended up making my hair yellow. To fix that I went to another hairdresser who has now successfully turned my hair ORANGE. My entire head is orange and at this point, I just want to go back to my natural brown shade but I can't go to the salon since I've paid twice the amount to get my hair ruined and now I'm broke. So I really really really really need a suggestion as to which colour I should buy from the inoa colour palette. And if you have any other better mode of communication, I would really appreciate your advice
I’m not too familiar with Inoa. My advice would be to return to the salon and get it fixed as they have to do this for free. Alternatively, you have a natural dark colour so apply a quasi colour which is 28 washes, choose a colour closest to your natural. If you really want your lighter bits to stay lighter then I would apply the Guy Tang my identity 7bb with 3% all over and leave it for 20 mins. This will kill the orange and tone it how you wanted it.
well explained 👍
do can his color use without cut down... ?.
Hello Lorna, thank you for your video it was really, helpful. That's mean if my roots are 4, and the rest of my hair 5 with orange tone, to go to 6 Ash brown, or 7n I would need to bleach my hair? I am confused since my roots quite long would I still need to bleach them I have also few greys. I will be grateful for any advice. Many thanks.
Oksana Niphade roots are 4, why is the other hair a 5? Did you dye it? If so, yes bleach out the artificial colour to make it lighter. Best to use highlights rather than applying the whole head. If your roots are a 4 you would. If 7n with 9% with a touch of blue to kill the orange.
Having said all of this if you have no colour just apply the 7n on roots with blue and 9% 1:1 and then apply all over the head afterwards.
@@longalion hello Lorna, thank you for your reply. While doinh highlights would I apply bleach to roots at the very end? Or normally from the roots? And what about the rest hair which will have roots and length in different colours, would it still be ok to leave the way they are? And would you like it be ok to use just the toner after bleaching? Sorry for so many questions, many many thanks
Hey I went from blonde to ash brown and got green 🤢. What should I do? Buy a remover? Will it remove green from hair? Or dye it with brown with red?
Milica Vasovic such a shame you never saw my video first. Well you need to apply a red toner, this could be in a form of a bottle of ketchup as a quick fix or more professional a warm brown. Don't buy a permanent colour but one that washes out in 24 washes. It's kinder to the hair which was previously bleached and will grab. The remover may also work but then you will still need to apply a warm brown over the top, so this save you cost and hair damage.
I am currently a light blonde, almost platinum and I am wanting to go to a medium brown. What steps would I need to take to do this. Thank you.
Rachel Hutchinson watch my video on pre pig. This will show you the colours to infill with to avoid going green. It depends on the base number of your brown chosen to advise.
@@longalion I am filling my hair with 7g then wanting to lift it with a mix of 8n and 8v do I need to bleach my hair before of will it lift?
Great video..what about a dark brown with 40% of grey hair...the same rules? Thanks
Safou Safouf 40% I would use a base colour mixed with chosen shade 50:50. This will help cover grey hair, however some brands don't cover well but it's all trial and error. If in doubt always pre soften with 6% first, dry and apply colour as usual.
Hairy Lorna. thank you for replying 😍
Then apply the chosen colour, knowing that ash colour will grab grey quickly. Or to go darker watch my pre pig video.
Hi i wanted to know how i can go from my natural color level 4 dark brown to a desired color of level 6 natural light brown. I dont want any warm tones or too cool tone just natural color. Should i use any ash in the color because i heard when lightening hair it can be brassy or should i just use a natural color.
Yes you need to add blue to the level 6 colour with a low peroxide strength of 6%. Some ash colours will have blue mixed with it already like 6.1. If this still has too much warmth you can buy a tube of blue pure mix tone and squeeze 1 inch into the colour. Just bare in mind the ashier the tone the darker the result.
Personally I would try highlights or balayage to get less banding. You can still use 6.1 in foils, but also some bleach with 1.9% mixed 2:1 alternated in foils. The result will be nicer than an all over ash brown.
@@longalion ok so if I use a hair color I don't need level 7 to get to 6 just level 6. I also heard of blue shampoo could hat be an option to tone afterwards and I will consider the balayage with the bleach sounds good.
Thank you so much. I have natural warm ebony hair but am genetically going 10% grey at my roots. If I put a 1N on my roots it’s too cold and doesn’t blend well as I love my red tones which are very prominent. How would I get a warm black like close to my own color. I tried darkest brown and it turns my roots red, but not a nice red, so I put a pure 6 flaming red over the 1N, but it’s annoying to do two color jobs. I’d so appreciate how to make a warm ebony. I don’t want cherry black. I’m like flame highlights in black. I’d change hair color completely but I do find my natural hair color suits me. I’ve tried wigs in other colors on and none look like my own color. Your video is very well explained and makes sense but I’m still confused about warming a black. 🌸
Yes I can see how annoying doing the two colour jobs is, plus the damage it causes. 1N is black, so to add warmth you need to add red to the mixture. There are pure mix tones you can buy so get the red one and mix it with the black half and half. Not sure if the result will be bright enough but that is the bed you would get. Instead of a 1N is there 1G or 1R (gold or red) you could use instead as these have warmth included in it already. N is neutral. Let me know the results.
But if you have natural 6 and put red copper on it, how can you get back to your natural color? Would it work with a smthg that has 7 in it?
Once you’ve put permanent hair colour on the hair you have permanently changed the colour. If you want to remove the red copper you need to choose a blue ash tone. Think 6.1 or even 7.1 (as ash appears darker) however it may not look the same as natural and after a while it may fade and orange tone colour. I would always use a Demi colour over a permanent colour as it’s kinder to the hair (unless you need to cover grey).
Can u teach about perla hair color line
Hi, I have naturally ginger hair and have been box dying it brown around a shade 4 but keep getting warmth keep coming through. What number and developer etc do I need to buy??
So to neutralise the orange you need a brown with blue. This will be a cool brown, say ash brown. You could always add an inch of blue to the mix to help aid the undertone. Sometimes though the undertone will shine through as the base 4 isn't dark enough, also after 6 weeks the brown naturally fades to an orange colour, regardless of your natural red hair. So if when you dye your hair it's good, but after 4-6 weeks it fades to an orange, that is normal. If it's orange as soon as you put on the colour then choose a ash brown, not golden, light or dark. Having said that, most red hair ladies suit the blonder highlights as you may tend to go grey younger. Hope this helps.
Hi I used L'Oréal hi colour for dark hair but the number system seems way off. It goes like H1 H2 H3 and so on. I used H1 and H3. I have a red undertone maybe slight orange but I can't really tell. Should I use a dominantly green and a little blue dye to counter it? And also what the heck do the numbers mean on hi color? Thanks!
If you check out a colour chart it shows H1 and upwards.this is a new formula which does not need bleach to pre lighten your hair. So just choose the desired colour and it will lighten to your choice. However if you are using a colour and the result is too red then you need to choose a ash colour to neutralise this unwanted tone. There doesn't seem to be a great selection to choose from in this range, but as a hairdresser it will be trial and error. I would add green if too red, it may darken the shade slightly but it will remove the red shimmer. However I'm not sure what green shades they do and not sure if mixing brands would be a good suggestion. Do a test cutting first and always a skin test.
Hairy Lorna
Please rep me please
hello, How many quantaty is need of ash to cut the orange? You mix the base and the reflex?
Ana Espada quantity is trial and error. Usually start with one inch or two, maybe next time if needed more you can do half and half with the reflex. It's also good to mix the two colours together before adding the peroxide. Unfortunately there is no answer each client is different but best to try less first.
hello i heared that after applying clr after some months the hairr turns to grey...
ash does not kill orange, that is a mistake, ash kill red, because ash has ( as a base) the blue,
So if there is a color num 5.31 what 5 is base color and what is 3 and 1 in it please explain
Rashmi Goyal the tones. 3 is gold, 1 is ash.
I have icy white blonde hair but I want to dye it jet black or soft black. Do I need to use red?
Mizz Wicked usually black doesn't need the red pre pig as it is so dark it colours over everything. However I personally would use it, just as a rinse before applying a black. Make sure the black is a quasi colour, 24'washes, unless you're covering grey, mainly because it doesn't dry your hair out as much. Good luck
Yes I would. Apply a red toner mixed with 3% and dry. Make sure it is not patchy. Then apply the black. Having said this you won't be able to return back to blonde if you dislike your new colour.
Earlier I had base 3 hair color and then I had 4.31 and the salon guy did not prelight the hair so it did not change the color too much . Now I want 5.31 can you please suggest me what should I tell the salon guy to get the actual golden ash light brown I.e. 5.31
Rashmi Goyal unfortunately as he has tinted your hair you will need to pre lighten it with bleach then apply the chosen shade. Tint does not lift tint. I would suggest just to do foils first as your natural base is already one shade lighter.
When i look color catalogue i loved the color "9.13". Then i cheked up amazon and e bay. but i couldn't find the color. Can you help me please? What should i do? :(
Elif 9.13 is ash and gold. I would probably say go for the 9.1 as your own hair colour will have golden in it naturally so you don't need it. However, if you are grey the no gold will be present, so you can mix a 9.3 and 9.1 together 50/50.
you sound just like super nanny,
Where can I get the this colour chart from?
Jamilya Heron Loreal website or eBay
Thank you!
Suparb.. I learn a lot.. thx
The whole thing is out of focus
Code pul et code pine
Sorry, it's hard to see when your filming I do try to add the key parts in text at the bottom of the video. Any questions feel free to ask though.
+Golden Gold Thanks for the Video! Apologies for the intrusion, I would love your opinion. Have you researched - Millawdon Goodbye Gray Trick (erm, check it on google should be there)? It is a great one of a kind guide for learning how to reverse gray hair fast minus the hard work. Ive heard some incredible things about it and my BF after a lifetime of fighting got excellent results with it.
How can I buy a color chart
Usually wholesalers sell them. Or look online I’m sure you’ll find something.
Very helpful
If Im using 7.46 does my base have to be a 7?
No. But depending on your base will depend on what strength peroxide you mix with it. For example if you are a base 5, 6, 7 you mix 20 volume. Base 8-10 mix with 10 vol. Base 4 mix 30 volume.
@@longalion thank you Lorna, 👍
Hi please I need help with the gray my natural hair is black. At salons they color my base light brown and highlighted. Now I have gray which color should I use to cover the grays and match it with the highlights please I can’t afford to go every three months
Sarah Sarah if the salons use a brown, then you need to use a brown, probably a shade lighter than one you think matches due to the highlights. Call your salon and ask for the colours they use, brown one, and buy a permanent tint box colour with the same number ash though. It may look horrible on the box but better than red. Now the hardest task is for you to apply the tint only to the root area, otherwise you will just waste the amount spent on highlights, plus damage your hair every time you have highlights applied. So roots only, get a tint bowl and brush and ask a friend to do it.
yellow , gold, ot copper maybe a brown gold or somethng alike
The first number our hair colour (base)nd 2nd number who i want.like i want ash colour nd my base this 3 so i see in colour book 3.nd ash colour line.
Yes, you would choose a 3.1 using Loreal or a 3A using Goldwell. Mix with a low peroxide 3% or 6% to cover grey.
Nyc can u plz tell me i want 2 use light brown colour..which nn shld i buy..Thx
6/7 in wella is a lovely chocolate brown. If this is too rich then a 7/0 or 7/3. Depends really on your colour now and if your darkening or lightening.???
6.3 colour. But i don't know your base number and if you have virgin hair or not.
hi i need advice here. i colored my hair dark brown.. what color to choose to make it ash gray?
mae ann barrera they are different colours. Ash grey is achievable with blonde hair only. As you have coloured it brown, I presume you want an ash brown colour? If so, you will need to mix ash into the brown or just apply an ash over the top. To be honest ash brown is quite flat and boring and not my choice of a nice colour.
mae ann barrera alternatively have highlights applied with bleach, then put on the grey afterwards. 9A with a dab of blue pure mix may work. Or just a semi grey.
@@longalion I have just started researching color options as I have thought about doing something other than my dirty/dark blonde hair. I have read that for my cool complexion i should stay away from golden tones and "ash blonde" or ash brown have been mentioned. Based on your response that ash brown is flat and boring, what would be an appropriate choice? Maybe my understanding now is that for whatever brown I woud want, the ash from this chart would be needed to prevent orange from showing? The only coloring stuff I have ever used is the lightening sprays that I do have to be careful to keep from turning my hair brassy (i have added purple shampoos and conditioners to my regimen when I have used the sprays). i know a proper color consultation would be in order; I just like to be as educated as possible so I can also tell whether the color person really seems to know wht they are doing.
Amazing
What color is 12.1
High lift tint - ash blonde suitable for bases 7 and upwards 2:1 with 12%
Hi there.... where can I buy the tone book pls
abena dennis wholesalers or online
Sally's or Salon Services in the UK. Alternatively the internet.
What if my hair is like very deep brown no. 4 I guess with L’Oréal and not black.. I want to go for ash brown or the mushroom colour that’s trending .. it’s very earthy and ashy .. what should I choose to get the look ..?
2659chandni you will need to lighten your hair. If virgin hair (natural) you will need to lighten to a 6 or 7 and to get the ash choose 6.1 or 6.11 / 7.1 or 7.11 if you need more ash squeeze an inch of blue to the mixture. If your hair is artificial then you will need to pre lighten to an even colour of base 7 and mix the discredited shade with ash. Hope this helps.
Please help.... I dyed my hair Violet (purple) but I have Alot of gray how can I get rid of the gray
Yvonne Rodriguez you're best to dye grey blonde really. As you have dyed it purple you will just have to keep washing it it may lighten, but I don't know if you have used permanent or temporary. What was the number used and was it permanent ?
You have to include base mixture to the colour mixture. So if you are mixing a purple colour where the first number is a 5.something, then you will also need to buy another tube which just has the base number, base 5. You would mix the two tubes together in a bowl (depending on the desired amount) half and half of each tube. Then mix with 6% peroxide 1:1.
what color is 6/6N
Julia Massa dark blonde.
What does the /8 or /88 stand for? Wella uses it but not sure what tone it is. Their color with an 8 tone looks super ashy as gray. Does anyone know?
Jennifer Miranda /8 is a pearl. /88 would be double pearl. So if it looks grey then it is a cool colour, over bleached hair it would turn purple or grey. Over brown it would neutralise warmth making the brown quite flat or mousy. In the Wella perfecton pearl is a purple and I use this over bleach to neutralise yellow, but only a little mixed with water. Too much would turn purple. Hope this helps.
+Hairy Lorna if i want blond gris i can mix perl with neutre color
+Hairy Lorna if i want blond gris i can mix perl with neutre color
Hi my hairs are redish in color coz of Heena but sum strands are black nd brown but now i want fashion colors of cool brown or ash brown without using bleach Plz suggest wat should i do.
Prabhleen Kaur you cannot colour over henna. Henna closes the cuticles therefore not allowing the peroxide to open the cuticles and tint to penetrate. A temporary colour may work.
Prabhleen Kaur blondor is a lightening product. To be honest go to a salon get a stand test done, otherwise you will pay more for colour correction.
EXCELLENT
how to colour white hair to brownish
lily rose hi, personally if you are very white, you need to go blonde as you skin colour has changed to suit the white hair now, therefore the original brown you've probably grown up with no longer suits you. Also the regrowth will be every 2/3 weeks to re-do. I would mix a base 9 with 6% or a 9.1 with 6% and that would be fine, then you may want brown low lights put through. However if you are already brown with grey and you just want to cover the grey then you would need a double base 66.0 or 55.0 depending on how dark you want the brown both mixed with 6% 1:1. Ideally start to go lighter to suit you as you get more grey.
mix base with the chosen shade. For example you want 6.3 colour then also mix base 6 with the mixture (half and half) .
How to go from a black dyed hair to brown?
carolina valdivia that's a whole different process of pre lightening the hair to an even colour base 6 or 5 and then applying chosen shade. Really a salon needs to carry this out as parts of your hair will lighten at different times depending on regrowth. The easier option will be to do cap highlights all over and then dye that brown. But yet again you need to know your skills.
thanks a lot, it really helped me know what is the next step for my poor hair hahah
what if ive got my hair bleached?
chrisela elrika seemed above comment
Thank u
Camera is not good
DEEPAK KUMAR sorry, I will reshoot.
Mam please reply me I need to talk to you please it’s a request
Mam I want online classes for hair colour please please please
How can I help?
Im Caucasian with level 3...so its not only around 5 6 7
👍
Base
Marina Vasiljeva natural hair colour level 1-10. Check out my videos for more details - pre pig.
Please reply
abdullah memon yes?
confusing how you explain.
Matrx colour
Sorry not familiar with matrix shades.
Hi, I can’t seem to find a hairdresser to give me what I want lol! I’ve been trying to study it myself so I can do my hair at home and it’s not as much maintenance, I want a nice beige light blonde nothing too striking or icy/ash, I’ve got some photos what I like and what i want to achieve but because I have highlight weaves done through my hair at the hairdressers the lengths of my hair are blonde and obviously there’s root growth, if you could help me I have Instagram @chloelhart , thank you!
It’s obviously impossible to do your own highlights yourself. Even as a pro I struggle. You could get someone to cap highlight your hair but only put the bleach onto the root bit. Then tone with a colour you like. As your naturally blonde if you wanted to apply a highlift tint eg 12/1 and 12% mixing 1:2 apply just to the line of the band only that will see you through too. Leave this for 50 mins. Do this as a root tint all over in small thin sections not missing a strand. What ever you decide don’t colour what’s already coloured as it will damage. Toning can be all over.
@@longalion thank you! True, the only way I can really sort my hair is my doing the roots, the hairdresser I go to blends it in though so knowing me I will end up with a harsh root line again, I want to try and have a more natural beigey blonde look to my ends do you have any advice with that? I have tons of photos of what I want to achieve but maybe it’s a case of waiting till salons open and finding someone who can achieve what I want, I do wish I could learn at home though!
do can his color use without cut down... ?