FIND/FIX EVAP LEAKS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- *UPDATE* It has now been 3 months (5k miles on the Jeep) and I have not had my check engine light returned!
Find and Fix leaks in the evap system in your car cheap and easy. This fix will help you solve diagnostic codes P0440, P0442, P0455, P0456 as well as others that are turning on your check engine light.
I diagnose all evap lines from the leak detection pump to the charcoal canister and gas tank. I then replace the damaged lines to get my check engine light off and pass inspection in my 2000 Jeep Cherokee
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We hope you enjoyed this video and will keep in mind that all information included is intended to be purely academic and in fact is only the opinion of D&E. We are not professionals, nor are we qualified to knight you a professional. D&E want to ensure that anyone modify or fixing their own vehicle does so in a safe manner which leaves the vehicle in a legal, roadworthy state. In short, DON'T BE A MONKEY WITH A TOOL BOX! If you don't know what you are doing, leave it the professionals!
![Jeep Cherokee: EVAP System Tour; How it Works + Test it Without a Smoke Machine! [‘98-’01 XJ] P0455](/img/n.gif)
I'm chasing a large leak on my '01 TJ and I think it's the hard line up behind the driver's rear spring mount. I'm over in Pittsburgh so I am also blessed with a similar level of crustiness on the undercarriage. My main motivation for chasing the issue is I'm sick of looking at the engine light, haha.
funny, I was at auto zone today and I was gonna replace the line with the tube like you did and the guy was like NOOOO you dont wanna do that because it won't hold the pressure! Personally I knew it would work because its not a lot of pressure on that line. I changed my gas cap as well but light came back on so im hoping this job will fix that.. I did have a misfire on cylinder 3 but after changing the gas cap that code is gone and hasn't come back so im still learning!!
Hey, shout out to NJ have ridiculously lax inspection! It always surprises me what I see passing through the DMZ
Do not buy 1/4 inch or 3/16th hose neither of them will come close to fitting. Buy 3/8 if you want a perfect snug fit. But other than that great video it’s been 3 days without the check engine light hopefully it stays off so I can go through inspection.
Mine is about 7 months in an still holding strong. Good luck with it!
What size clips would I need?
@@DEInTheGaragedid that fix the code ?
@@DEInTheGaragedo I need clamps I don't got em gonna trick knock this out right now.
Thank you very much... I'm a gal ready to change these out ...thank you I can dig it!
One trick I learned on youtube was to put a vasilene on your gas cap "O" ring . Helped clear my evap code and has worked for a long time . I may have to do it again as my CE light is on and guess what? Its inspect time. :(
Isnt that always the way... I get 2 full years with no CEL and then right before inspection BAM.. good tip though. Thanks!
Always seems to happen at inspection time....
Good job on the Evap Leak fix,,,,but I want to know how you did that headliner job which looks awesone!! The cheap fabric on my Dakota headliner came down and would to make mine appear similar to yours. Do a video if you will? Thanks
Sweet, it is so much nicer seeing NJ XJ repairs and such.
yep.. we get a whole set of issues all our own.. There is a video to come on removing the upper rear shock mounts on an NJ XJ.. mine are so rusted the bolt head is gone. Gotta love that winter road salt..
I have floor pans to replace, a rusted out seat bolt , 4wd shifter that rusted solid and a few other issues. I do have all the stuff to fix it including por15 just need the time lol
Good luck! sounds like a hell of a job! We have to save these XJs though... we can't get them back once they have all rotted into the ground.
If I had the time, place and money I would snatch up as many as possible for salvage or repair for resale!
@@DEInTheGaragedo you got better gas mileage now?
Great job gave me enough instruction to diagnose my 2002 WJ 4.7 V8 test code P1494 Evap Circuit not sure if it is electrical or circuit meaning vac lines.
I use Sil-Glyde on hoses. It doesn't melt the rubber like oil and petroleum based grease.
Emissions vapor hose with occasional liquid fuel contact is SAE J30R7. You can use SAE J30R9 fuel hose but it's overkill.
Interesting. Thanks for the feedback and tip!
You are lucky you did not have to drop the fuel tank. FYI in Illinois you can pass with the EVAP monitor not set and pending EVAP codes if all the other monitors are set and no active codes and no check engine light (this is true for 1996 to 2004, not positive about 2005 and newer).
got rid of my evap leak but still got a low and bouncy rpm at idle . The hunt continues.
Just trying to confirm, 1/4, 3/16 or 3/8? Read all comments and watched vid in entirety (more than once) and all 3 mentioned. I have a couple 044_ codes to fix also. Love your content, thanks so much!!
Hey bud. The Jeep uses all three which is why I suggested either confirming which one you need OR buy a bit of each and go to town. I went that direction as it was difficult to confirm the sizes needed without removing the old lines first
@@DEInTheGarage awesome, makes sense. Thanks for prompt reply!
GREAT VIDEO AND VERY PROFESSIONAL
Bro thank u...most truth I’ve seen on TH-cam
Did you ever check your cruise control elbows, sometimes behind the passenger headlight, but your's might be in a different place. I had a vacuum bulb under my battery on a 99 gjeep cherokee
Interesting. Thanks for the suggestion
@@DEInTheGarage i saw a video the other day of a gas tank leaking at the giant o ring that seals the pump. I'm starting to see that you can have a leak just about anywhere on the system, here's the list so far:
1. Cracks in air breather hose and air breather top.
2. Valve cover vacuum lines
3. Brake vacuum hose dried up and loose/brake booster allowing air in, going out
4. Intake vac. elbows dry rotted cracked
5. Melted/cracked throttle body vac hoses
6 cruise control vac elbows dry rot.
7 check valve elbows dry rot
8 check valve worn out
9 check valve filter clogged
10 vac to axils dry rot
11 vac to headlights dry rot
12 throttle bod gasket cracked
13 evap vac lines rotted
14 evap purge valve o ring loose/old/ or valve bad
15 gas fill vac hose/purge hose/or air inlet hose dry rot
16 gas pump o ring on tank loose/dry rot
17 gas cap loose
18 cheap gas cap with wrong vac pressure valve
19 vac to air/heat controls leaking in dash
Vac lines off/ddy rotted to vac resivoire (black plastic ball) usually under front fender, either side depend. on make or model/ or ball tank broken
These are the most common....
Smoke test makes a lot of sense now.
@@DEInTheGarageexcuse me sir where did u order your custom Sealing design at they look dope. I like Alot.
So what ID and OD hose should I get? I plan to replace this same steel line
I honestly do not remember off hand. Maybe 7/16 or 3/8 ID. If possible grab a bit of both to be safe. OD doesn't really matter, just get hose clamps to match.
He referred to 3/16" and 1/4" in the video. Looking at the hose in the video that looks like ID measurements. I have the same rusty line and it looks to be about that size. OD in this case is irrelevant since the hose you use to replace it with is going over the existing connections at both ends.
So 3/8 is too small, I used 1/4 ID.
It just fit over the canister and fit nicely over the gas tank side, on which I used a small hose clamp.
This unfortunately didn't fix the EVAP leak so I'm back to the drawing board. 01 XJ
Quick question the plastic line running to tank where you cut the old hose off....what's the best solution to reconnect back at the pump? The whole thing came off on mine and dont remember what side the line hooks onto the pump
Never mind found my answer in previous comments. Thanks for your videos helped me out more then once!
That is not the Leak Detection Pump, that is the Purge Valve Solenoid. The LDP is in the very far right corner up against the firewall. You can only see the filter on the top of the LDP, the rest of the LDP is down underneath the LDPF. The PVS is a crucial component of the EVAP system but it is not the LDP.
Are you utilizing the OEM bracket and guess it's called, "J-swivel hook & twist latch" to secure your oversized spare tire in the back?
Off the topic question I get it.
It is the stock J-hook, but i stripped the stock twist latch so I found a bolt that matched the thread and welded some table on it to make a giant wing but
Thank you , right to the point awesome.
This repair was needed on my XJ and it successfully kept the CE light off for several months... But, the light is back on (im assuming another evap leak) and sometimes I smell a bit of gas on startup. Any thoughts?
Well you can make sure the hose clamp are still tights, but likely another leak popped up. Gas on startup could imply a few things, but I would look around for another leak. If you Jeep is old and rusty like mine was, you can spend a fair amount of time searching and patching leaks
Did you solve your problem?
Did you have to jack the truck up?
Depends how comfortable you want to be. I did not and was fine
Hey I'm wondering if i can try this fix. For the life of me i cannot locate the actual OEM part Fuel Vapor Tube - Mopar (52100162AE) - how is this fix holding on? ... I keep getting P0456 FML... thx
wow i love see to youtube learn thanks bro
Where is the purge valve solenoid located in a 2008 Volvo XC90?
Thanks for this video! I've fixed mine with a length of 30R10 submersible fuel hose rated for 150C/100PSI.
my worst smell of oil is 90w oil (rear axle oil)! make a smoke machine! remove the & remove the Schrader valve from the evap test port (left-hand thread ) & test your evap system connect the smoke machine there! be safe!
Yea, I have heard folks doing that at home. have never had the opportunity to try my own smoke test, but i would definitely like to
Awesome video! Thanks man.
Did you do your headliner? Do you have a video?
Yes I did and Yes we do! th-cam.com/video/yvgOw6AbYaY/w-d-xo.html
Nice roof liner.
Thanks! We have a video on how to do it cheap and easy th-cam.com/video/yvgOw6AbYaY/w-d-xo.html
When I was trying to pull the rusted line off of the hose that goes up over the gas tank, that hose came out. Do you know if I will need to drop the gas tank to reconnect the hose or if there is another way to fix that? I'm not sure where it's supposed to connect. Thanks for the video.
I imagine it can be done without dropping the tank. might have to reall reach around in there to get it done though
@@DEInTheGarage thanks for the quick response. Do you know where it is supposed to connect or should I just try reaching in and feeling for the connection?
@@jessemcannon It should attach to a 90 degree connector on those fuel pump which is on top of the gas tank. If you follow the other lines, they should guide you to it
@@jessemcannon did I ever get it connected I just did the same thing......
@@mikecarroll5447 I did get it back on. I ended up lowering the tank enough that I could reach the connection but did not have to remove the tank. If you can find a picture or video of what the top of the tank looks like that should help you know what you are feeling for
were in nj you at??
Sorry, but what size evap hose did you use to replace?
I think this ended up being 3/8" line
Can that make it where I can’t fill it over half?
Wonderful video
I am having this same problem with my WJ once again!! Time to tear the bumper off. 😡😡
where can I find that hose you used to replace it??
Any auto parts store should have it. Advance, AutoZone, O'Riellys, Napa.. just make sure you tell them it is for a fuel system not a vacuum system. They usually have it behind the counter and cut it to w/e length you need. For this particular project you need about 3' of 1/4" fuel hose and two hose clamps to go with it.
D&E In The Garage sweet thank you!
Was your check engine light on?
yes
Thanks. This was very useful.
Ty for the Advice ✅🧰
Good luck for you on next month......Hope it passes
That Jeep is now in another man's hands, but I al told this repair is still going strong
I got a po442 and po455 but no engine check light
Autool sdt- 206 self contained smoke machine no compressor needed . Paid 275
1. Take off your watch before working on your car.
2. Nice headliner.
Haha.. I usually do, but that is good advice, and thanks! We have a vid on the process to install a customer headliner if you are interested.
Yes, I'd be interested in seeing that. I have a Ford F-150 with a sagging headliner and I would love to see how you did that. Thanks.
Did I️t work in the long run, I️ just found the same issue
It did! It has been about 2 months since the fix and I have not had an issue. I check it periodically, but I don;t expect an issue. As long as you get fuel line and not vacuum line. Vacuum line will melt and deteriorate from the fuel vapors. For good measure, I also used a mixture of 50/50 ATF and lithium grease to brush down the hose clamps. I do this for all fuel lines, brake lines, and other stuff that is under the vehicle to help them resist corrosion from New Jersey winter salt.
D&E In The Garage Thanks for the quick reply, I️ just ordered the Evap tubing hopefully the code goes away.
Are you doing the same fix? Return line on an XJ?
D.J. Domareki Yes
I would love to hear your feedback once the repair is complete.
"I think ATF may be the worst smell in the world" I take it sir, you've never rebuilt a supercharger. that smoked oil makes the bud light almost smell floral.
damn, thats one rusted rig. What part of the world you're in?
Right in the rust belt, New Jersey.
EVAP Leaks are the fucking worst -__-
clear it an leave the car turned off for 8 hours
Gear oil smells worse!
po446