Anycubic Kobra Plus Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2022
- Here's the 3rd in a line of new "Kobra" printers from Anycubic - the Kobra Plus. It's halfway in size between the Kobra and the Kobra Max. Let's explore the differences, try and prints, and discuss what printer might be best for you!
The Kobra Plus 3D printer will begin retailing at 10:00 am EDT June 15th on the official Anycubic store, Amazon, eBay, and AliExpress, Anycubic will be providing an early bird offer of US$399 for the first 2,000 printers.
The early bird notification can be subscribed at bit.ly/3H4Igxu
Product page: bit.ly/3xx6k98 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Cura, by default, prints the infill first and then the outside walls, so an easy/fast way to improve the outside walls quality without increasing them is to disable the option "Infill before walls", that way the infill does not show through the walls
I didn't know this, thank you 🙏
I use 3D Prints for mold negatives and while I quite like the pseudo-3D print look of the cast, I've always wondered how to mitigate against it. 🤔
Excited to try!
A day we will discover the real purpose of manufacturing 3D printers is to let youtubers do review videos and Ben shows his vocal capabilities. (Thx Ben ❤️)
Yeah they put lead in the gas to reduce engine knocking. Same guy who came up with that invented CFCs. Poor guy was just trying to help.
Lol. I just saw that on TH-cam yesterday
It also helped lubricate valves and prevent damage to the valve seats. Not necessary anymore because we have better metallurgy.
Thanks for the information. I just ordered one. Should be here on Monday.
The zits on the benchy are in the same place because that is where the print path finished the layer and started the next one. You can specify the z seam placement or pick a random start position to minimize this effect.
You should bring back the cheap crt cyberdeck build
I'll second that.
My parents had a gas station when I was a kid, I remember when it was less than 80 cents a gallon. Leaded additive helped with knocking. We still use it in small airplanes.
Thank you for your review Uncle Ben.
I think the small bumps in the surface (benchy) come from bad seam placement- so that is basically where the layer starts- there are settings to put them all in the same place- which makes a visible line- but the rest is completely smooth then
Can u do a tutorial to setup Curia pls
I will never own or operate a 3D Printer, but I still watch all of these.
Hey Ben! I used to watch your Ben Heck Show back when you were making things like the N64 Handheld. I was wondering if you could help point me in the direction of anything that would be usefull for a project I want to undertake:
I'm trying to make an Arcade Stick Box out of the guts of a Nintendo Switch Pro Controller, having it be completely functional for any game. I'm having trouble finding the analog stick pinout details and also I realize I need a board to convert the Digital Joystick output into an analog stick output so it can be plugged into the pro controllers board. I hope you respond!
You are such an linkable man, definetly earned subscibtion
You mentioned a cura plugin for selective support - can you link to that? I'd like to try that plugin out and my searches aren't bearing fruit... Thanks!
BEN on my Vyper, I always change the speed on the FLY, using the interface Screen!
The stitching is probably layer change. If there’s a setting to align them or place them in the same location, it will at least look uniform and intentional.
Tetra-ethyl lead was used to prevent the old NON hardened valve seats from wearing on the heads of motor. Lead is still available on aero-engines and high test (over 100 octane) fuels.
Im going to buy one of these
You're a cool dude Ben. Love your videos.
I don't understand why they went back to the glass beds after introducing the pei sheet system on the vyper.
The world is better with you in it, Ben.
The thing about the portable Atari Lynx reminded me of a project I’ve been thinking about for a while: a portable Game Gear. Like if you take one apart it’s mostly air and batteries. If you printed a new case for it and replaced the six AAs with a flat lipo you could make it way smaller and a lot more practical, or at least as practical as a 32 year old handheld console can be. If you printed it with that crazy pink filament you could call it the Glam Gear.
I have the Chiron from them, still haven't leveled the bed after 3 years of owning it.
Could you tell us what exactly your "outlet drains" are? Brand? I had to build one myself thinking it did not exist so, just curious!
What 3d printer model softwares can I use for the kobra plus
Thank you, because of your glorious singing voice you’ve earned a subscribe; it had brightened my day 😅🤣
Which 3D printer with direct extruder is bigger than the small cobra and has autoleveling and is fast&silent?
come for the knowledge, stay for the humor!
there is a setting in most slicers to compensate for the elephants foot- the only thing it does is put a champ at the bottom of the print by offsetting the outer lines to the middle
Can you give me the size of the base/bottom frame of the printer? Thanks
Wondering if you've ever tried salt water on glass beds. I use it on my Alfawise U20 all the time and it works great without leaving any noticeable marks on my print. I also had glass beds on my CR-10 minis but instantly upgraded to Garolite I ordered from McMaster-Carr which does an incredible job with adhesion but you have to be extremely careful while leveling or it will put permanent cuts in it just like a PCB board. Both release parts extremely easy upon cool down. For the minis, all I had to buy was a 12x24 sheet for around $30 and cut it down the middle. Interested to hear your thoughts on salt water and Garolite; if you've used them and if you have, if you were happy with the results.
I'm having 2 issues, the screen stops working when I start up the owl print and the one time it started it starts on the bottom left side. Help!
There are those Noctua fans known for being quiet. Ppl upgrade their Ender 3's with them all the time. Could be a potential option?
Hey Ben, I wish you would do at least one print with one of these at the max print quality so we could see how it is. Also you're correct, lead in gas acts as a lubricant.
Let's get that out onto a tray.... Nice!
Wiping the bed down with alcohol before starting the print helps adhesion a ton.
Maker Muse has released a video with 5 slicer default that he change where he show that the starting point for a level is what make the little knobs. Changing it to be in a line make the overall look of the print better.
Hey Ben, why not make an adapter that goes from MicroSD to full size SD. A short ribbon cable, a sacrificial microSD card, and a remote SD card slot. You could then locate and orient it whichever way you wanted.
The 'lead' in leaded gas controls 'knock' (pre-ignition) which allows engines to run higher compression and create more horsepower...now it is done with a stack of electronics to measure how much knock is occurring and detune the engine to make it go away. (an engineer will have a more precise definition)
There was something about lubing valves too as a reason to use it. So some engines couldn't use unleaded initially without changing valve seats. For octane rating(/compression tolerance) they started using other chemicals so in regards of that the unleaded isn't worse and you don't need knock detection as such just for the change to unleaded
It is true, in the long term, valve seats were required to be hardened to convert to unleaded...but not sure what metallurgy was in place. The other portion is fuel octane...that is also measured by modern electronics, and is part of the engine math to reduce knock.
Measuring the grade of the fuel was done by measurement in a special one cylinder engine, of which there were only a handful in the world. Until they in-lined the process, they used to put in extra lead to ensure they met minimum requirements for the particular grade. It was called it ‘throwaway’ at the time. It was an expensive practice, which they were glad to fix. Fortunately it’s use has been largely abandoned now, so just a little piece of our interesting history now.
This is also a good video about the lead in fuel: th-cam.com/video/IV3dnLzthDA/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Veritasium
@@bertieblob3387 the octane calibration engines you could advance the timing to see when it knocked and from that figure out what octane fuel you had. You can advance the timing in any engine but on the calibration engines the timing was calibrated. Power timing!
I love how unopinionated Ben is, he is giving his genuine opinion on the product and that is something you don't see everyday with youtubers now
thanks for everything you do Ben!!
I was just having the same thought about 'regular' gasoline yesterday while I was filling up. Tetraethyllead was, and I assume still is in places, used to increase the octane rating.
I think they still use it in aviation.
Do you have a purchase link ..
How do you determine the amount of z adjustment? I dont get that. What is that large square test print? I like The workflow u have from other anycubic kobra reviews for determining z adjustment.
theres youtube videos on it
Lead was added to gas to help prevent engine knock back when fuel qualities were much lower than they are now.
Improved metallurgy over the years eliminated the need for lead in fuel.
Is there a way to get the recommended settings? I didn't throw away the SD card but my computer refused to open it unless I formatted it first so I no longer have those settings and instead had to go find settings someone else used but it was not for the Kobra Plus.
I ask cause I have giant flash or what ever you want to call it around the base of all my models which you don't have. granted I had that on the sample owl print the SD card also came with.
I just learned you can actually change that giant flashing around the bottom of the print in the Cura settings.
Subscribed just because of thy serenade lol
2:00 put the mainframe here...brings back memories!
Lead was used in gas because the valve seats and guides in the heads were made out of a softer material. The lead acts as a lubricant for them.
Glass beds hold really tight when the bed is heated. Once the bed cools down, parts usually just come right off
this any better than the viper?
What slicer do you use?
need to adjust the flowrate
or maybe the retraction is also off with the flowrate causing the zits
One of the case fans on my computer has a bearing that's going, I have to tap it to shut it up... I would replace it but good luck finding 230mm fans that aren't stupidly expensive or glow garish colors to boot.
given the unboxing experience, Ben's unit seems like it came from the same batch as my review printer
I gave up trying to get Cura to work for a Voxelab Aquila, it's basically the same printer as the Ender 3 v2, but no matter what I tried, I couldn't get it to work with Cura.
Went with PrusaSlicer instead, worked perfectly first time after I told it that it was an Ender 3 v2, extremely minimal configuration required.
Every print comes out so much nicer, though I dislike Prusa's supports, but at least I don't have to junk so many prints.
Interesting. I have an Aquila an Ender 3 V2 and use the same gcode for both printers and they coming out great every time using Cura
It's time for a new video, we miss you Ben and Bub
Ooo Strain gauge sensor nice!!
3:25 Small planes still use leaded gasoline, and it was used to reduce/prevent engine knocking, (which is caused by the gasoline being too explosive). The lead compound had a few advantages. It was the first compound found doing what they wanted to do that was cheap and didn't smell like crap. And only was need in trace amounts. A fine recipe to get filthy rich. Inventor claimed it was safe, even while he was suffering from lead poisoning so bad it almost killed him. But that is what you have to gonna do if you want to get really rich, walk over corpses.
you could try to mod some noctua fans in there perhaps?
Noctua is wayy to expensive.
If you can run your fans a bit slower, you can do it with a cheaper fan.
Noctua only makes sense if you run them on high-speed. Then they are more silent than others.
Use sacrificial layers instead of supports for screw holes.
Nice review did just get rid of that bad layers at least? Im about to buy kobra is it worth im afraid that i will have problems with not easy solutions.
Lead was used to stop the "knocking" - when the pitons misfire
Its primary use is octane boost, but it does help with knocking too.
It is NOT a lubricant. In fact, if TEL were the only additive, the buildup of lead would leave sludge everywhere. So they also add scavenging compounds which combine with the lead to make PbCl2 and PbBr2, both abrasive white powders that can be flushed out with the rest of the exhaust.
I had to watch just for the fact our cats look very similar. 👍
Yeah, it's impossible to design this with a full sized SD card slot. That would cost them 15 cents more. Actually more of an issue is sourcing garbage generic SD cards vs micro SD. The cost difference there is probably a little more.
I completely agree though, full sized SD is more flexible, since you can just use an adapter to micro SD if you want.
Anys ways, I also prefer direct drive and a PEI steel sheet for the print bed. I do need a larger 3D printer, so I should really just do some research and buy one.
Yes, the lead was to lub your values.
Bud approved!
Those look like Peonies, they are beautiful flowers, but do not last long.
The prints of this Kobra plus seem a bit rougher... maybe it'll be fixed with some gcode magic in the future.
Ben-Puns are the Best-Puns. Come for the tech, stay for the sass and Henry Walton Jones Jr impressions. Also Bud is pretty cool too.
I'm with you on the fan I mod my cr10 with noctua fan much better
Good to see the device and assembly. Appreciate your comments where relevant to thetopic because you clearly have much experience in 3D printing.
One bit of polite advice: Silence is golden. irrelevant prattle and singing are not. BTW Lead was added to petrol as an 'anti-knock' ingredient - to overcome pre-ignition.
Veritasium made a good video about leaded gas.
What Printer did you choose in cura?
isnt there a profile that comes on the SD card? I remember seeing that some of the kobra models have them on the card to import in the videos i watched. If not you can select the custom option in add a printer in Cura and use the PDF on the SD Card to input the needed parameters.
lead was added agents nocking .
I was looking out the window when you mentioned car colours, and every car I saw was black or white. Then a red one went past.
The red one was a glitch in the matrix.
I love Bud
Bought this one because my kobra neo hot end would not release the filament and the fan on the psu was very loud for about 10 seconds at start up when i can afford the pursa mk 4 i will get that one plus you get a free bag of haribo with there printers chucked in the box 😂
I'll stick with my Chiron I love the vids long time follower btw that extruder though you might wanna change out. I've had machines with them on it by anycubic and switched to ender extruders because anycubics crapout
Not a bad price range for the size of the build area, either. Even the Max is less than $600 (as of this writing, anyway).
I think leaded gasoline was used to keep valve seats from pinging? Something like that. Totally worth
Leaded gas kept your valve seats from impacting. Today valves have stellite inserts. They say that when we ran leaded gas the contamination made us all more violent? I don't know about that.
I’m afraid you won’t be seeing another release of Simplify3D - at least not in the present hands. Looks like they are going to the wall. 😢
That's why we all need to FLOSS
accessory packet, but you didn't get it out onto a tray - - i was disappointed.
Get Bud some tasty treats! XD
Whoah! Thanks! I think this might be my first Super Thanks!
Too bad Ben didn't record fixing the drainage around his house. I'd watch it.
leaded gas was used for antiknock
Tetraethyllead was used to increase fuel octane. So yeah it would reduce knocking. As Ben said it did help with lubrication too. You didn't need stellite valve seats when you ran leaded gas.
Looking into the hobby. Have around $500 to spend. What's the 1st printer that comes to mind. Total noob on all this.
Get an ender 5 plus .. skr2 board rev b by bigtreetech and a btt
@@deadlysketch1 appreciate it. Im a airbrush guy. Shirts mostly. Want to print. Bottle holders. And some add ons for my screen printing press.
Your Lynx portable doesn't take into account Gauntlet, Klax and Raiden that you play with the console rotated 90 degrees.
(black & white = the past) = spit take.
I know.
@@BenHeckHacks was that in Han Solo's voice?
That flower is a Peony.
"Oh there's a rose or something" (tulip) "I don't know what kind of flower that is, is it a Chrysanthemum?" ( peony) 😂
"I don't know what these things are..." (iris)
Mine isn't powering on, I just assembled it, what should I do?
Go to the back of it and there should be a hole if you shine a light in it there should be a red switch your going to want to switch it to change the voltage
@@purplerefrigerator3023 I actually figured this out 20 minutes after I commented this, but I really appreciate you answering tho! I've already made my first print, a sword!
Do you know that Anycubic doesn't deliver components anymore after they stop producing the machines. I have an Anycubic Predator for less than 3 years and after the touch screen has been broken I have to throw away the printer
Odds are you be able to pair a third party LCD to the board...if you know the main board and firmware running on it flashing a LCD easy enough may loose some features have to dig around
@@jinxycob After a whole day of searching for a solution, I gave up. I don't want to use external tricks to keep the printer working. Better to use a big hammer and send the remains to Anycubic...
@@josephluijten716 I understand your frustration had many weeks building repraps , the predator being a large delta if I remember rightly looks a Good machine I be tempted to turn into a project and rip the whole tronics out and replace it with some makerbase MKS board and LCD find them Ali express they produce some good boards.
@@jinxycob With some efford maybe I can fix the problems but I am annoyed that they just let me down. They are digging their own grave with such a policy.
@@josephluijten716 just searching seem the printer uses a trigorilla board and LCD but can't find a match anywhere...makes me wary of anycubics future support for any printer.
Watching you print that vase and not use vase mode (spiralize outer contour) was painful.
i have never seen you using resin based printers
Nobody has sent him one
Lead was a value lubricant
Valve stem lubricant, yes.
Did you ever figure out the stringing issue? I've had that issue with every anycubic printer so far :(.
Stringing is what was causing the lines on the bottom of your playstation controller.
increase retraction, deal with the increased print times. I have my old 3d printer set to 40mm/s retraction, and I only see the tiniest of wispy hairs off of protruding features. One wipe of the hand, and they are gone.
@@jong2359 how much retraction distance are you doing?
@@MichaelJantzen42 I did say 40mm/s in the last comment :p
@@jong2359 I guess I got confused as cura has a retraction speed and distance setting.
@@MichaelJantzen42 makes sense, I am using Prusa Slicer which only has the speed.... I don't know what the distance setting could possibly be doing though... like, minimum distance needed to retract? I prefer to only have one retraction setting, and not have another variable for distance.
KOBRAAAAAA!!!
Fun Fact: A Baker's Dozen wasn't just 13, it could be 14 even 15, depending on the bakery item
Id imagine it depends on the baker too, no?
Ha ha ha
You're funny man...😁
* Shot of Ben picking up gantry from box
* Cuts to shot of Ben throwing something black away from the box
Your editing made me think it was going to be a short review.
Off topic.. how's Todd Todgers doing these days 🤔