The Anycubic KOBRA MAX REVIEW
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2022
- The @ANYCUBIC3D Kobra Max is a new-yet-familiar offering from Anycubic. Does it pack a punch at a larger scale? Are the prints awesome? Is this something you want?
You'll have to watch and find out :)
NOTE April 7, 2022: Just heard from Anycubic, there is now a coupon on Amazon, that takes the Kobra MAX to $599
OLD NOTE: I was told in an email from Anycubic that the KOBRA MAX would be $599 on Amazon and $539 on their official website. I just checked, and it's $739 on Amazon and $569 on their website. I've sent an email to Anycubic, and I'm waiting on a reply. I hope this is just a mistake and not intentional deception.
Anycubic Kobra Max from anycubic.com
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Anycubic Kobra Max from Amazon
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In an email I was told the price on Amazon would be $599. I just checked, and Anycubic has it listed on Amazon for $739. I really hope this is an accident and I wasn't given incorrect information.
Havent seen this model before, could you link the stls in the description?
On Anycubic's own website it is $639 so, yes, it looks like it's $100 more than you were told.
I don't know how they be able to sell it at any of those prices should be $1200 I think.🤭
@@user-eu2pb9rr4l STLs linked in the description now.
It's up to $639 on their site.
Edit* That was for DE. US is $569
I flipped the plate over to the glass and had no problems with removing my prints once it cooled down. Also, I replaced the plastic bearing wheels with metal ones and no squeaking. Still going strong with no other issues . . . for now! 🍻 💪🏾
Thank you, Joel, for printing my engine! Amazing video, amazing size! Thank you!
I AM SO HAPPY YOU SAW IT!!!
All your engines are cool. Thanks!
that’s what she said
I have a anycubic Chiron with the same bed and you have to let the bed cool. Even under the print. People will touch the bed and think it's cool but under the print not so much. I come back a couple hours after the print finishes and even large prints will pop off with little effort.
You can also reduce your bottom layer flow rate a bit. Will help if your prints are sticking to much on any printer.
I just stumbled upon this looking for Cura settings and you hit the nail on the head. I'm still playing with Cura just to see what works best, but out of the gate this thing was printing SO much better than my CR10 ever did.
My Cura settings were Vyper, but with correct bed dimensions. CRAZY how good it prints straight away right?
I keep searching for the best kobra max settings, my prints just string CONSTANTLY and after playing with temp, retraction and speed for days I just can't get the finish right. Where do you find these settings? :(
Thanks for a detailed review/overview. I really appreciate the delivery and will consider this for my next printer
Very interesting setup for the Y. I dont mind how they did that oddly, figured I would. Distributing the load over 2 rails with lots of wheels is nice, but may lead to issues with those bearings with HEAVY prints. Any luck oiling the bearings? It sounded to me that it might have been in the extruder!
Joel, I enjoyed your review as always. I've been using flexible build plates on all my machines for a couple of years now, and I'll never go back to using tape or glue or whatever. Really can't see why you would ever want to mess with any of those methods when the flex plates are so easy to install (if the machine doesn't come with one) and so convenient to use.
Which one do you use?
But did you find one which is 400x400? I can‘t finde one that size.
@@McBearyOne - it's a year or two ago now, but we bought a small sheet of stainless steel on eBay, then trimmed it to fit our i3 - it even has an insulated handle! I'd certainly give that a try, it was not costly.
Any time I get one of the beds with the silicon-carbide surface, I flip it over and print on the naked glass. While carborundum does a great job of holding onto models with a small footprint, the risk to my nozzle, combined with the weird behaviour on some filaments (black silk - might as well have been welded to the bed), makes it not worth it on anything but finicky prints in basic PLA.
Another great video, Joel! Thanks for posting!
Just a tip I've learned that I want to share to everyone watching. When removing tpu from glass, do it while the glass is still hot. It's a lot easier to peel off that way. Otherwise once it cools down it holds to glass like glue! I like to catch it right at the end of the print and peel it off. I've tried reheating the glass after it has cooled down and that didn't seem to help much either. Happy printing.
Tpu you just roll the model up. Super ez.
Whenever I print TPU I do the same AND squirt a little bit of 99% isopropyl alcohol. It comes off so easily with just a tiny bit of alcohol
This applies to all printing surfaces.
TPU should be printet without a heated bed. I reactivated my Flashforge Finder which has no heated bed and it prints perfectly (and it's my only direct extruder ;))
Yeah I found that just reheating the bed helps to release the print when you're ready to take it off the bed.
G-10 works great for me on my sovol SV03 as a build plate! As long as the z-offset is about right, it grips everything!
I got the at squeak on a few of my printers as well, it was actually the cooling fan rubbing on the cowl of the print head, the blades where too loose on the fan and they wobbled enough to make that noise, also, in the case of my CR6 SE to rub a groove in the cowling housing. A fan swap fixed the issue, but it is a bummer that it happens form the factory like that.
It is like an upgraded Chiron: all the new features and most of the upgrades. Things I did not see in the review: is there a filament run out sensor? Does the filament sensor detect stopped/jammed filament? Is the bed heating evenly? Does it resume properly after a power fail? Does the firmware allow notifications back to Octoprint when the filament runs out? Does the bed have amosfet so I can keep it powered after power loss?
The other oddity with the name is the non-max Kobra is a direct drive (and has the flex plate) which makes the Max even more like a Vyper.
You would think printers would get better in the future, but it seems like anycubic is just hashing out the same thing
The Kobra is Anycubics answer to the Ender 3 S1 Sprite.
I have a anycubic chiron and it's an awesome machine for the most part I have used it a lot more than my ender 3. All the issues you're facing with the kobra I've had with the chiron which is disappointing given there is a few years between them you'd think they would have figured that out already. Blue masking tape has been my go to for my prints on the glass to help it release. I wish they released the nozzle bed levelling for aftermarket.
I have the Chiron as well, and after watching "This Korba Max looks suspiciously like an upgraded Chiron." 🤔
Great review. I just got mine today. Putting it together now.
I have had the Chiron for years and have been satisfied with it. I have had things stick to the bed too hard, but I always use washable water gluestick now, and things come off quickly. It is built cheaply, though, and I have had to replace many parts. Luckily any cubic always sent them to me for free based on warranty. I did add a direct drive to mine instead of Bowden now, I had issues with the filament extruder just chewing up filament before, and I use it with a palette as well. The majority of the time, everything prints well for me. I upgraded all the parts and printed high-temp with it. When it is time for an upgrade, I will go with the max. as far as price is concerned, I don't see too many other printers that are competitive with it based on size and capabilities.
I feel always so excited when there is new 3D printer with a large print volume in the market. I need an after some months review for Kobra Max.
Is there some problem or needed repairment in this following months?
Thanks for this video and your review
Covering the plate with scotch could be an option for models not to stick on?
I saw in some other videos but I wanted to ask you. Thanks
Thank God I ordered the extra satin build plate. I had a feeling it was available for a reason. My first printer was the Photon D2. I loved it so much 3 days later I ordered the Kobra Max bundle with a extra build plate I paid like $650 for the bundle with extra filament and build plate
G'day Joel. Great video mate. Kudos for providing such constructive feedback and an honest review. Loved the big model aeroplane motor you built. Shame it didn't run, as I would've loved to see it go. Cheers from downunder. Aaron.
Your cuts and videos are stupendous! My smile was a permanent fixture from beginning to end. To me, failures due to a print bed, are a NON-ISSUE. "Im not buying this house... because I dont like the bedroom paint color."
Thank you. We will let Tucker know. He cut this one!
i would like the machine to have a sheet of build tack on it. my original m3 mega came with it before they went to the ultra base. i love it. easy to remove items. but nice to see what it can do. the prints look awesome.
First of all, great video, love the humor lol. Question I have is this printer big enough to handle 1/32 scale models of sections for assembling buildings, I tried finding info on what size of 3D printer needed for 1/32 scale with no luck, will this one work or one of the cheaper costing Kobra's, thanks for any help...
you are the 2nd you tuber to talk about the bed braking 😮
do you know if preheating the bed made any difference 🤔
great review thanks for the video 😊
I've fell in love with using hair spray as my water soluble interface adhesion layer.
Thanks great video I have coming in two weeks. A question? When doing your first leveling did you lower your bed completely down before auto leveling?
Great video, Joel!! It was good seeing you in Jerry's live show today. You should have joined in with us on the stream! 😊 👍
I was having the bed adhesion issue on the mega s with tpu, what works for me is blue painters tape. Yes it’s a pain but it definitely helps
Hey! Nice Job!
Have you fixed the sticky base problem?
what brown butcher paper, or a light coat of vegitabe oil?
Just got a AnyCubic Photon Mono X, so much to learn!
Thanks again!
Have you considered G10/FR4 for the build surface? I switched from Creality's glass bed to the 1/16" G10/FR4 and it's amazing, the prints stick great during printing and slide right off when it cools and it's flexible so you can flex it to pop prints off as well and you don't need to heat bed with TPU.
Do you just buy a sheet and cut it to size?
Where’s fan mail Friday !! Lol great review as always good sir
I think they should’ve used a mesh build plate like the i3 mega X It holds on really well and when it cools down the Print just pops off
About the glass bed adhesion... did you try lowering the recommended bed temperature for the material? I have found with other bed surfaces that the amount of bed adhesion could be controlled by raising or lowering bed temp.
I ALWAYS use hairspray on my glass beds, not for adhesion, but as a release agent. I started doing that right after I tore a chunk of glass out of my glass bed when printing with PETG.
When printing TPU on smooth beds I always use glue stick. On textured surface (like on Prusas) TPU peels off easily and no glue is needed.
Heya, I was wondering if you could do a bit more in depth video on how the "nozzle touch bed leveling" and if it could be implemented on say a anycubic Mega style printer?
One of the first things I got for my CR6 max was the flex plate, so much better than the glass. Which this looks like a very close 2nd cousin of the cr6 max.
Have you run into any issues with it stopping mid print?
@@landfallstudio3482 I had blockage issues on anything longer than 2 days until I upgraded the hotend cooling fan
Anycubic makes some great products.
Well priced and so easy to assemble and get printing.
im curious if those squeaky roller wheel bearings offer an advantage over the rods like in Prusa MK3S+
Hi ... i was wondering if you had any cura/prusa slicer profiles that are better than the stock one they give with the machine? i am having issues with Z moving and dragging on the print without moving up first. also, there is no nozzle prime like the prusa slicer does in cura. so if you are willing to share a profile, it would be great. thx for all the videos and information you provide to us. we really appreciate it.
Gotta idea…
Great non biased review btw. The world needs them all to be like this. Thanks.
So… I’m curious. Do you think a piece of RAM board (heavy duty super thin cardboard) would work?
If not then maybe even a brass plate
Or even aluminum foil wrapped around the plate and when done peel it away.
Grabbin at straws.
I’ve been window shopping these printers looking for tool and machinery part print capabilities.
This model looks best so far(from my POV) any tips let me know.
Thanks again
i would wonder if the nozzle doing the adjusting by touching the plate, would hurt something like garolite or some other meltable thing. I never tried to melt garolite, but i'm pretty sure it bends.
The printer look good and all but what Stephan did with the stl is way more intriguing to me lool.
He probably remodeled it to adjust the clearance that well for sure, working with an stl file is such a pain
A ton of people in the Vyper Facebook group begged them to make it so you can adjust the Z-Offset in 0.01 increments... And they just don't listen. Hope you as a larger creator will be able to convince them!
Joel, I love that Endor-gonia tshirt! Any chance you’d share where you got it or where we can pick one up?
I have got the latest Cobra Max,-still in the box- About the plate...I would use a heat gun in the meantime to help release the print from those areas because I know it could even take a chunk of your plate I drastic enough. Remember it is designed to hold large prints.
Thank you for your great reviews, Joel!!
Thanks for watching!
Hey it had been a while since the last big print video. Thanks for the vid!
Let the print bed cool completely before attempting to remove. It comes right off then.
100% extrusion was a tad too little; mine took 105%
Use retraction.
Print a brim if for just the purpose of priming the nozzle.
Start gcode for printer
G28 ; home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ; move the platform down 15mm
; prime the extruder
G92 E0
G1 F200 E6
G92 E0
(so the second from end line is the actual prime line, set E for a value that works for you, I'm still tweaking this)
End Gcode
M104 S0
M140 S0
; retract the filament
G92 E1
G1 E-5 F300
G28 X0 Y0
G0 F3000 X0 Y350
M84
first two lines turn off all the heat
g1 line is the retract line E is a negative number can be fine tuned
g28 is a home command to make sure bed and nozzle goto home, x first to not hit your print
g0 is a move without extrude to bring the bed toward you for print removal
m84 shuts down the steppers and lets the cooling fan wind down to be quiet after a while
Looks like its an upgraded Chiron. Ive been loving mine. Might have to check this out when/if I ever get some more room.
How would you go about getting a flexible bed instead of a glass bed?
The problem with the tolerances not working when scaling... Thats another power of designing a model parametrically.
If you want to scale it afterwards you can do it with changing one number. If you use the parameters correctly.
Always start with a "scale" parameter, set to 1.
Include that scale parameter with ever measurement that is an actual dimension. so like "body_height_a*scale"
But dont include it in the tolerances.
You should even use parameters for every tolerance so you can tweak those in the entire model afterwards with the change of one number.
So say the tolerances need to be 0.1mm when you print with a 0.4mm nozel, but you switch to a 0.8 to print larger and it needs to be a larger tolerance, no problem. Change one number.
Getting some insane bed adhesion with pla/+, i reckon maybe z offset? The auto bed leveling seems to do really good, it might just be a couple points of a millimeter too close. I’ve tried dropping the bed temp down to 50 which arguably was worse because the owl snapped in half and i sent her perch flying through the stratosphere with her feet attached (after hours of cooling). Although, that was with pla+, i don’t see how that would be much of a difference but worthy of including i guess. Any other ideas?
The printer is sick though, i giggled like a child when i tried the auto filament loading and unloading. Its the little things 😅 i really can’t give much of a review with only 2 owls printed (part of one currently in orbit), but just going off quality and ease of use out of the box, its been a dream. If z offset is my only real concern with bed leveling, I’ll take that over a piece of paper and knobs any day because i SUCKED at bed leveling manually. My one gripe was the sd card that came with it, i thought like in the video maybe i had it in the wrong spot or something. Negative, the sd card wouldn’t read in the printer at all, but reads on the computer? I ended up grabbing the one from my ender 3 and it loaded right up. I tried different formats and reformatting, to no avail, the sd that came with it just didn’t read in the printer. The printer is also not inherently recognized in cura (that I’ve been able to find at least), the instructions come with a guide to set it up, but from a new persons perspective i can understand it’s not ideal.
I just got my first 3d-printer which is the the Anycubic Mega X, printed quite a bit with a it. No squeaky bearings (yet).
This looks very similar to my CR6 Max. Great review!
I wonder, have you tried printing with ABS on this unit?
Good video. You are straight forward and 2 the point without the ridiculous intro that everyone seems to have. Don't change.
Hey Joel... I wondering, will you be able to get hold of and build and test out the biggest hobby level printer I've ever seen the new Tronxy X5SA-600.
It has the new auto leveling black sensor for all bed types and a big ..big print area.
Of 600 mm x 600 mm x 600 mm..
So 2 feet square print area to try out. I hope you get it so we all can see this monster cube design frame printer?
Thanks 😄
Making month long prints is not my idea of fun.
good to see they redesigned the belt tensioners, they look to be compatible with Vyper and I might upgrade those because belt tensioners on Vyper are horrible
Is there not an opton to adjust the z axis offset. Its auto oeveling, and so if its adhering too much it might just need backing off 0.01mm or so to make it easier to remove.
Awsome video!
My Ender 3 recently failed and I'm looking for a new printer.
Since I'm now certain I want to really get into the hobby, I'm willing to spend more money.
Currently, I'm not sure wether to get the Kobra or Kobra Max.
I've indeed wished for a bigger printing volume on my Ender 3, since I sometines print stuff like seld designed rovers and cars I then automate.
I'm still not excatly sure, wether it's worth the bunch of extra money (I'm still in school so money is a little tight), especially without a flexible build plate.
What would you advise?
Maybe you should just get the Ender Extender 400 or 500mm
Very interested in this
Were the magnets reversed on the tool drawer?
IE - auto-eject mode?
That is a creality thing.
Really great review! Thank you for this!
It sounds like anycubic needs to put a thicker (relatively flat) aluminum bed plate on it and a removable build plate with it. I think that would be nice since the thin aluminum bed plates warp alot
I'm looking to get into 3d printing for the first time, so I don't know anything about this subject.
But I'm a good cook and often use parchment paper to cook things on. (Life hack - No washing dishes). That's rated to about 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Would it be possible to use a sheet of parchment paper to save your base?
Great video, I cant stop replaying this review, can it print Polycarbonate?
My Atom 2.0 delta 3D printed did the same auto bed leveling. But all my prints were not able to stick on the edges. They would always lift slightly.
I'm debating buying one of these, any advice on where to get a flexible build plate upgrade?
I have a question as im fairly new to this. I own the cr-10s and i use cura which had a printer profile listed, but since the max is so new it doesnt have one. Can i just use the vyper profile and change the bed dimensions?
Great video. I just ordered the Kobra Max because I was dissatisfied with the Shark V3 that I was using. My issue was bed adhesion. Nothing I tried would allow things to stay locked in position. I was losing 20 prints for every one that was marginally successful. Now, I'm afraid that I will have the opposite problem with adhesion. What do you recommend for an interface that will allow the prints to release easier...other than resorting to a flexible plate....not that I would even know where to get one. Any input would be stellar.
Look into getting a magnetic flex plate for the machine!
Can one change the extruder orientation on this printer, so the filament can be fed from a shelve above or in the back ? I find placing the filament on the side very inconvenient.
I could use settings for this machine - Cura or Prusa. I did successfully print with a modified Viper profile, but it didn't control the heat as expected, and if you could point me to a good profile (I can't find one online), that would by great!
Hi Joel. I was wondering what slicer you are using for the Anycubic Kobra Max.
Hello Joel! I saw your review about the Kobra Max. So, after 2 month and i think, many print. What do you think ? Is this printer still a good choice for printing large parts?
how can you really mitigate the rigid bed issue? do you have exactly which flex-bed sheet can i use there?
I just got a Vyper, I just don’t like the side load filament spool I don’t have the room. But so easy to put together.
Would this or the Sidewinder X2 be the better choice for out of the box?
I'm inclined to get one of these. In your expert opinion what is the best 3d printer i can get right now for under $1000.
I'm looking for something "functional" , i don't want 3d printing as a hobby, i don't want to print thing that i can get at a 99 cent store, I'm looking for real functionality without having to spend hours tinkering with the printer, fixing and upgrading. I just want the brunt of my work to be kept in the design and development of the products that i need and not to focus on the printer itself. (Also ideally I would like to be able to print in large format but its not a deal breaker. some of the items i need to design are about 17" long)
Joel, can you share your printer profile for cura? The printer does not have one and I seem to continue to have some struggles getting it all dialed in
I think Sean is having a little too much fun with the editing, but I LUV IT! At least you can't singe your hair with a vacuum. Or can you?
I had the exact same bed issue that you had, where the surface pealed off of my Ender 5 Plus, along with some of the glass. ABS stuck a little too well to it. It seems like the surface micro-fractures over time, to a point where they eventually become large enough cause the surface to fail. Once the first piece chipped off, I started seeing gouges across the entire surface.
Tucker had the edit on this one! We will let him know!
Just placed an order for this - it’ll be my first 3d printer. I’m excited and nervous!
Would you recommend this as a upgrade or a newer version for the ANYCUBIC chiron ?
Joel, I have not been able to get one good print. I have layers shift all over and poor quality layers. what slicer do you used?
I still like my Prusa mini
Flexible build plates should really be standard by now. The print bed of the Vyper is perfect but maybe it is not manifactured in larger sizes? For my Anycubic Mega X i bought a magnetic, removable, flexible bed and it is way simpler now to get the prints off the plate (but the removable layer is starting to fall apart after about 500 prints so be careful with it)
Joel…. I use bumble and bumble oil free finishing spray on my build surfaces. I first spray the area lightly, then bake to 90 untill it’s done drying. Abs and other prints so good with this. It’s the only thing I can find that will really hold down well but release when cool. And I’ve tried a lot of sprays. I dare you to test. Say good bye to glue sticks..
Great video, can you tell me how much space I would need for this machine? I know the dimensions, but I feel like it needs a bigger space for things to move around while printing.
Found the answer myself in case someone needs it. th-cam.com/video/n9iP_wplrno/w-d-xo.html
Don't know if you still need a reply, but for my Kobra Max, I recommend 38 inches on both width and depth, and 30 inches of height. This should give you an inch of clearance in each direction.
Stefan to the rescue 😀.
Seems Like a decent Machines, but truht be told a flexible removable build Plate is a must nowadays.
Thanks for this good and real review!
Weird about the bed. I thought I saw at least one other review that had a removable layer like the Vyper but with 4 clips to hold it on instead of the magnets. Might have been the one by Ben Heck.
is there a way I can ask lots of questions? my printing is going awful. It was working so well, and now I think it seems clogged etc and not adhering went through and did all the manual said
It is kinda weird that they named it Kobra and not Vyper?? I was hoping for the same build plate as the little Kobra -- that one is freaking awesome.
they already have a vyper, that's their ender 3 clone
@@microArc I know what a Vyper is. This should have been a Vyper Max. Also, the smaller Kobra is going to eat the Ender's lunch. It's perfect.
Just ordered one for myself! Does anyone know what dark blue filament is being used? I see all the link in the description but wasn't sure which specific type it was.
I've been looking at geting this one or the Chiron. Is there a chance that you will do a review comparing the Anycubic Chiron and the Kobra Max? And what is a good material to use for them?
Get this one. I see a lot of people having problems with the wiring harnesses on the Chiron. Upgrade to a textured pei sheet.
How dose it compare with the cr-10 max , what would be a better buy?
I know this is a long shot but can you show us what are the best printing settings for the kobra and the vyper ? I recently bought both and I'm having trouble with my prints
I’m using Cura defaults for both and they just work well. Are there specific settings you are looking for?
3:50 is it just me or does the nozzle look slightly crooked?
what slicer did you use it looks beutiful also what filament did you use it looks so consistant
It was Polymaker filament I believe. The slicer was Cura. I choose “Vyper” for the printer, then changed the dimensions. That was it.
@@3DPrintingNerd what about the profile did you use a generic on cura tryna make prints as clean and what model did you use to tune it just an xyz cube
I really hope they fixed the heat bead wiring. In the Chiron they used tinned and undersized wiring and it was a major fire hazard.
I don't know how people get stuff to stick to the carborundum coatings. I almost always need to flip the bed over to get good adhesion.
Would you say its worth buying the extra parts for it such as the Heated Bed For Anycubic Kobra Max, Glass Plate for Anycubic Kobra Max, Bearing Pulley for Chiron/Vyper/Kobra series 5Pcs, Extruder for Anycubic Kobra Max/Plus, Hotend for Anycubic Kobra Max, Motherboard For Anycubic Kobra Max?