WATCH THIS BEFORE YOU GET LIGHTING FOR REPTILE ENCLOSURES - The Ultimate Reptile Lighting Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2021
- By far the hardest part of setting up an enclosure for a reptile or amphibian is choosing and installing the right heating and lighting. In today's video, the third part of a vivarium build series, I share the thoughts and considerations that went into the lighting rig for my new day gecko vivarium.
In this reptile lighting guide, I aim to illustrate how replicating sunlight (both in form and composition) should be our primary concern when we are selecting lamps for herps. Traditionally, people have seen lamps as a means for keeping things warm, as is reflected in the very name "heat lamp". However, this line of reasoning causes us to disregard the closeness of our lighting to sunlight: we should be using lamps to simulate the light found in nature, not control temperatures! To do so requires a knowledge of what sunlight is, the lamp technologies which allow us to offer each part of the spectrum, and how to go about measuring the intensity of radiation offered by a certain lamp at a particular distance away from it. All of these things are considered in this video.
Wondering what UV indices your herp requires? Find out here: www.researchgate.net/profile/...
NOTE: Solarmeter 6.5 usage (06:52)
One of the comments received during the peer review stage of this video's production noted how in the video, I use a Solarmeter 6.5 to measure the UV indices around the vivarium. In so doing, I have the Solarmeter measuring the indices in mid air, which at first glance would appear to be an irrelevant measurement as far as the geckos - which bask sat on branches, not hovering - are concerned. However, I would like to point out why the measurements I was taking were suitable. Notice that when using the Solarmeter, I keep the button pressed in and move my hand in a horizontal line. Now notice that at all times, the sensor (on the top of the Solarmeter) is the same distance from the UV lamp as the top of the basking branch in the enclosure, ie the same distance from the lamp as the geckos will be when basking. You will now understand why what I was doing was appropriate. (I will likely make a video about Solarmeter 6.5 usage at some point in the future - if that would be of use to you, then let me know!)
Below you can find some of the different lamps used and discussed in this video. As an Amazon associate, I earn a commission when you purchase through these links, but you don't pay any extra by using them.
UK:
Metal Halides & Equipment - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/metal-hal...
Linear Fluorescent UV Lamps & Tech - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/linear-fl...
LED Lighting - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/led-light...
Tungsten Halogen Lamps & Fittings - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/tungsten-...
US:
Zoo Med PowerSun Metal Halide Kit - amzn.to/3suYrwm
Linear Fluorescent UV Lamps & Tech - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/linear-fl...
LED Lighting - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/led-light...
Tungsten Halogen Lamps - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/tungsten-...
Ca:
Zoo Med PowerSun Metal Halide Kit - amzn.to/3igD7Gq
Linear Fluorescent UV Lamps & Tech - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/linear-fl...
LED Lighting - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/led-light...
Tungsten Halogen Lamps - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/tungsten-...
New to the channel? You might want to start here - • Ceramic Heater & Heat ...
Follow nature’s example - th-cam.com/users/JTBReptiles...
Instagram - jtb_reptile...
Facebook - / jtb-reptiles-472487643...
The supplies I use - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles
Advancing Herpetological Husbandry - / advancingherphusbandry
Reptile Lighting Group - / reptilelighting
The Reptile Networks - reptilenetworks.co.uk
![[#SHORTS CLIP] ครูอึ้ง กรรมการอึ้ง ฮ่าๆ l ซานิเบาได้เบา l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qeBTuMJs4t0/mqdefault.jpg)
NOTE: Solarmeter 6.5 usage (06:52)
One of the comments received during the peer review stage of this video's production noted how in the video, I use a Solarmeter 6.5 to measure the UV indices around the vivarium. In so doing, I have the Solarmeter measuring the indices in mid air, which at first glance would appear to be an irrelevant measurement as far as the geckos - which bask sat on branches, not hovering - are concerned. However, I would like to point out why the measurements I was taking were suitable. Notice that when using the Solarmeter, I keep the button pressed in and move my hand in a horizontal line. Now notice that at all times, the sensor (on the top of the Solarmeter) is the same distance from the UV lamp as the top of the basking branch in the enclosure, ie the same distance from the lamp as the geckos will be when basking. You will now understand why what I was doing was appropriate. (I will likely make a video about Solarmeter 6.5 usage at some point in the future - if that would be of use to you, then let me know!)
Below you can find some of the different lamps used and discussed in this video. As an Amazon associate, I earn a commission when you purchase through these links, but you don't pay any extra by using them.
UK:
Metal Halides & Equipment - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/metal-halides-equipment-uk
Linear Fluorescent UV Lamps & Tech - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/linear-fluorescent-uv-lamps-tech-uk
LED Lighting - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/led-lighting-uk
Tungsten Halogen Lamps & Fittings - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/tungsten-halogen-lamps-uk
US:
Zoo Med PowerSun Metal Halide Kit - amzn.to/3suYrwm
Linear Fluorescent UV Lamps & Tech - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/linear-fluorescent-uv-lamps-tech-us
LED Lighting - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/led-lighting-us
Tungsten Halogen Lamps - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/tungsten-halogen-lamps-us
Ca:
Zoo Med PowerSun Metal Halide Kit - amzn.to/3igD7Gq
Linear Fluorescent UV Lamps & Tech - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/linear-fluorescent-uv-lamps-tech-ca
LED Lighting - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/led-lighting-ca
Tungsten Halogen Lamps - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles/tungsten-halogen-lamps-ca
New to the channel? You might want to start here - th-cam.com/video/dUJZ04sqhxk/w-d-xo.html
Follow nature’s example - th-cam.com/users/JTBReptiles
Instagram - instagram.com/jtb_reptile/?hl=en
Facebook - facebook.com/pages/category/Video-Creator/JTB-Reptiles-472487643238124/
The supplies I use - kit.co/JTB_Reptiles
Advancing Herpetological Husbandry - facebook.com/groups/AdvancingHerpHusbandry
Reptile Lighting Group - facebook.com/groups/ReptileLighting/
The Reptile Networks - reptilenetworks.co.uk
A+ guide. Thanks!
You're very smart and knowledgeable. Definitely one of the best info channels out there.
Very interesting! Love videos on lighting as I always learn something new. Can’t wait for your next video :)
Thank you, glad you enjoyed!
Really enjoyed the information. I always learn something new. Thanks
Great to hear!
Great video! I’m sure the lined geckos are going to love it in there!
Watch the video again, but this time keep your eyes peeled and focussed on the vivarium ;)
Thanks for watching!
Excellent, this is very helpful!
Thanks, Lori! Glad you liked it!
All of this is so complicated
And then towards the end on how to test heating for the light
The recommendation is “put your hand their and see if it’s warm”
This cracked me up
God bless
Please do a vid on testing different UV lights, their stated output vs their actual output. Would love to see the differences between the big brands like ZooMed, Arcadia, Exo-Terra T8 and T5.
If you have a look on the Reptile Lighting group on Facebook, different people have already published these results. I’d do it myself if I had the means, but to do it properly really requires buying lots of each lamp for a representative sample (you might just happen to get the one dud out of a particular lamp batch if you only use a sample of one of each lamp), and I don’t have the money to do that myself!
Welcome back joe!!!
Thank you, I've only been gone a fortnight! There are other videos in the works but there will likely be a similar waiting time until the next one - they're better late and polished than early and scruffy.
Quick question, which is better for obtaining visible light metal halides or spot LEDs?
Very nice!
Thank you, Liam!
Good info
Great video, Joe! Looking forward to seeing how you incorporate temperate control into this viv!
Thanks, Dillon! The temperature control for this one is simple: there isn’t any! Alas, all that is to be discussed in videos yet to come 😉
@@JTBReptiles do you measure the temps at all? I’m not terribly familiar with day geckos care requirements so I’m not sure what temp ranges they belong in. I’m having trouble wrapping my head around not using a thermostat. Does it just work out nicely that the right distance for your halide lamp is also the right distance for the halogen bulb?
Temperature control is a video I’m working on. I am convinced that almost the entire reptile and amphibian keeping community has the wrong end of the stick with it all: there is a lot to be said here.
The halogen is closer than the halide. I don’t think the halogen is intense enough so will be putting a higher wattage in. Again, we are working on a better solution that just putting your hand under.
keren kak perawatan leopard geckonya, sangat bermanfaat dan membantu dalam mengenal leopard gecko
Anndddd the hobby gets ever more confusing! 😜
In all seriousness, good video. As always! I've decided that I'm going to be putting the Arcadia LED strips into all of my enclosure's throughout this year, there's enough evidence to suggest extra light really benefits these animals so if it's what's best for them, it'll be done. Can't argue with science, it's just a moral choice whether we choose to listen or not. I'm not going to go crazy with 4 different bulbs inside my vivariums though, 3 is the limit. A basking bulb, T5 UVB and then the LED which I believe is more than enough for the majority of captive Exotics. I applaud those who go above and beyond though, shows some serious dedication to their animals. 👏
Haha thanks mate! For crepuscular species, that’s really all you need: a UV lamp, a strip LED like a jungle dawn LED bar, and a tungsten halogen lamp. For diurnal species, at least one more lamp is needed, either a spot LED or a metal halide. Halides are very expensive once the ballast and fittings are considered, and spot LEDs marketed for reptiles (like the 35W Reptile Systems New Dawn and 40W Jungle Dawn Spot) come in at about £70, but spot LEDs not marketed for reptiles are really cheap - the DASKOO spot LED shown in the video was only £15!
People do not realise this, but visible light can warm things up just like infrared can (as can UV, for that matter). The different wavelengths have separate interactions which aren’t just heating (UVB = vitamin D3, UVA and visible light = seeing the world, useful infrared = healing effects) and the way that they heat an animal is different (infrared tends to get further into the skin before being absorbed and thus causes heating deeper in the tissues than other wavelengths). However, that all wavelengths can warm things up is definite. No matter the time of day, UV never contributes much to the warming effect of sunlight because it is never that intense (as far as heating is concerned). At dawn and dusk, the intensity of visible light is low enough that it can be approximated by an LED bar. You can’t really feel it warming you up very much - the infrared is doing the bulk of the heating. Later in the day, however, it becomes more intense, and a halide or spot LED of 35 is needed to match it. Considering now the warming effect of visible light, you will see that a lizard which basks in bright sunlight will be getting hotter because of the visible light, and if we don’t offer this intense visible light in captivity, it will impair their ability to warm up properly. If there’s not intense enough visible light at the basking spot, the warming effect will only be akin to that of dawn/dusk sunlight, and that’s not what diurnal species have evolved to warm up in. Plus, it is the visible light that they really recognise for basking. (I know someone who’s tortoise was near to light from a window and there was a tungsten lamp suspended for it to bask under. The tungsten lamp, in providing a reasonable infrared intensity, would warm the tortoise up nicely, whereas the window, only letting not-very intense visible light through, would not. Yet, it is the visible light that a tortoise recognises for basking, and the tortoise just kept hanging around by the window and staying cold until it was moved elsewhere.) Put all this together, and I would view visible light “boosters” like halides and spot LEDs as absolutely essential for diurnal species!
I am working on another video at the moment where I set up my dragon’s new lighting arrangement, including a spot LED. Once you see it I don’t think you’ll be left in any doubt about the above! Also, it is worth me stating that, yes, if you put your hand under the spot LED, it DOES feel warm!
Anyway, thanks for watching 😁
@@JTBReptiles You see this is the first I've heard about this. The standard for I'd say all diurnal species is a UVB and a Basking bulb. Some keepers like myself will take it a step further with an LED strip, others will not. Some like yourself even go above that and provide additional lighting. Which is pretty cool but to be honest I have yet to be swayed by providing so many lights. I'm definitely not trying to be "one of those" keepers but a lot of the people I interact with that keep some truly incredible animals only provide a basic spot lamp for basking and the condition/health of their animals is unquestionable. Perfect health all around.
I'd like to see different results between a handful of different Bearded Dragons, each provided with different forms of lighting. For example, one setup has the basic T5 UVB + Basking bulb, another then has T5 UVB + LED strip + Basking bulb etc. If there was conclusive evidence shown in the individual dragons after being exposed to different lights then you'd be onto a winner mate.
I'd be lying if I said it wasn't a kick in the teeth to the hobbyists who try to make changes but then those changes aren't apparently good enough, if you know what I mean? I love the fact this hobby is always evolving and creating new products to really boost the welfare of captive Exotics but I can't imagine how new keepers must feel! Regardless I'm looking forward to your future content regarding the matter bud, everyday is a learning day! 👏🏻
Great video. I have been going crazy trying to decide on the lighting set up for my corn snakes' new 5ft enclosure. For her basking spot I was going to go with a 75w halogen, add an LED strip, and a 7% Arcadia UV light.
I have a video on my corn snake’s lighting coming out in (depending on time for peer review) about a month so that will be useful to you, I think. What you describe sounds good, although if it’s a 2’ viv I’d use a 50 rather than a 75W halogen, the 75 will probably be overly intense with regards to near infrared (based on my intuition - we don’t have numbers yet for intensity, but expect this to change in the near future).
@@JTBReptiles I forgot to mention the height is just over 2.5ft which is why I thought of going with the 75W. Hoping to get the electrics hooked up and get the decor in, aiming to get her in there some time next month so I'll be looking forward to that video!
Ah right, good luck! 😁👍
Hi there, love your video. I have ball python and BCI. I’m going to buy some pvc enclosures and struggling for what kind of heat ( Radiation heat panel or halogen pair with deep heat projector)
Ha! Even more confused which way to go! Stick with my T5's or switch to Solar Raptor (Halide style) Brilliant as always :D
Why not both? They do very different things. T5s are for offering UV over a wide area; halides are mainly for offering visible light but can also be used for providing a peak of UV at the basking spot as a bonus. I wouldn’t use them interchangeably. For diurnal species, both are essential (unless you use a spot LED instead of the halide).
Thanks for watching!
the arcadia site has a good species search for tube suitability at certain heights. handy for a quick glance.
good breakdown though, its something i am thinking on. i am still using the bulb as a heat source and had to experiment a little to find the right type and wattage so that the bulb ran at almost its full capacity whilst keeping the right temps. then i can simply use the thermostat as a safety device rather than a control device and i dont end up running a bulb at half it effective capacity. better to have a 50w halogen that runs as its meant to than a 150w that is perpetually dimmed to insignificance.
i also use a full length uvb tube, but i also incorporate shade and distance in the design. my thinking being that its gives the choice to bask in uvb with the heat as well. which i have witnessed both of my snakes doing on many occasions. i also built my vivs deeper than normal so the light gradient is a separate concern than the heat gradient. so the animals can find a spot that suits almost like plotting a point on a graph.
It sounds like you’ve put some good thought into this. What you’ve written about your choice of halogen lamp is what, if anyone would have asked me, I would have recommended about 5 months ago. I started working on a video explaining it, but stopped as I hit a wall. It is true that a halogen run at full power will emit a composition of infrared more sun-like than a halogen which has been dimmed, so using the lowest wattage possible to get the desired temperatures seems like the right way to go - but composition isn’t the same as intensity. A 100W halogen and a 50W halogen (for example) ran at full power will have the same composition (% of output which is IRA and IRB, as far as we area concerned), but clearly the 100W lamp is more intense than the 50W. So which do we choose? If we are wanting to replicate sunlight, it must be the lamp which produces the intensity most like sunlight, and clearly this has got nothing to do with the temperature in the enclosure. We should pick the lamps with composition and intensity in mind, see what temperatures we get, and then take action to alter the temperatures as per our requirements: in effect, we let radiation be our deciding factor and temperatures follow rather than temperature being the deciding factor and radiation following suit.
There are more subtle things to realise and to be said about temperatures than I can do in a comment. There are more videos coming where I attempt to explain this, then.
Hey mate, I have a retic and am working on upgrading the lighting, my room stays a constant of 79-85 degrees naturally just due to insulation and my compture, and was wondering if for a basking area what level of light would be good in a 3 foot high enclosure.
I’ll look forward to seeing how the day geckos behave with all the different lights, especially the metal halide.
My Grandis enclosure is only 45cm wide and I run a shade dweller, 15w jungle dawn and a deep heat projector which I hope is providing enough visible light as well as heat / energy.
Look forward to the next video 👍
If I were you, I’d get a spot LED to go alongside that (one should fit), and I’d swap the deep heat projector for a tungsten halogen lamp. Then, you’ll be offering visible light intensities like those in sunlight at mid-morning and mid-afternoon, and a more favourable composition of infrared A and B. A tungsten lamp is about £5 and a spot LED £15 bought on Amazon (I have some links in the description where you can find them), then a wire cage to house the LED (the ones sold for ceramic heat emitters) will be about £20. That’s £40 in total, and it will make a MASSIVE difference - of that I am certain!
Spoiler alert: I’ve already moved most of the geckos! If you keep your eyes peeled, you actually see them in the background whilst I am talking in this video. Thus far, it doesn’t seem like they prefer either the spot LED or the halide, but it does appear that I was right about the 50W tungsten lamp not being intense enough. I am going to change it out in the next few days for a 100W and see what they do. They certainly seem to like basking and spend pretty much all day shuttling in and out of the basking zone. Their colours are really beginning to pop!
Thanks for watching!
@@JTBReptiles my main reason for the dhp was to provide heat over night as the roll they are in gets very cold overnight and I run it on an evo lite. Would love a 90 wide then I think I could really up the game with the lighting.
Will check out the links though and see if I can make it work 👍
Temperature control is a separate matter to replicating sunlight - deep heat projectors don’t do a good job at replicating sunlight, but they do interfere with it, so I am of the opinion that they aren’t really suitable either for lighting or heating purposes. I am working on a video about temperature control (the other half of the topic opened up in this video) at the moment which will discuss this in more detail.
For the time being, I will state only that with a glass vivarium, if you want to offer background heating, I would use a heat mat taped or stuck to the glass on the back or side of the enclosure (on the outside), somewhere where there is nothing on the opposite side of the glass (a background, for example, as then the glass would get hot and crack as the heat couldn’t be lost). Again this will be explained in videos to come.
@@JTBReptiles I do have a heat mat on the side as well! I’ve a few spare bulbs maybe I’ll swap it out and see. He does love basking under the dhp. I’ve got a few options of a halogen or floodlight bulb.
I could ramp the temps up during the day and down again to sunset plus delay turning on the uv and jd
Thanks for taking the time to explain 👍
Wait for the temperature control video. I think you will find it useful! Might be another month in the works, but it will be worth it. (The first version has already been finished, but there is lots of talking and reviewing to be done before anyone sees it.)
I don't know how young you are, but your narration/speaking is amazing, and you could have a career in educational videos or documentaries. Great information, too. Thank you for your thoroughness and explanations. That leopard gecko is beautiful, by the way! what's the morph?
From my research I too agree that halogen lights are the closest to sunlight and deep heat projectors are 2nd. I am wondering why you aren't using a thermostat(especially a dimming thermostat) on the halogen.
I'm currently going to buy a 50-100 watt dimmable halogen floodlight par30 or par38 from a hardware store. I will also be buying a herpstat dimming thermostat and a replacement for my shadedweller online.
The website goes out of stock quick though so hope you reply asap. The herpstat is expensive af but from my research it is needed if using a halogen.
For my leopard gecko
Edit: I just watched your previous video on this topic. The entire video. So you suggest a dimmer, fans, and covering the probe.
Still unsure if to go that route or not
Hi there, any suggestion about the heating for my ball python, green tree python and bci? Bec they all more like Nocturnal species. I have heat pads for my hall python and bci. And DHP for my GRT.
How does this apply to Boa Imperator. Some say they are nocturnal so don't need any UVB. Others say they don't need it but it could possibly benefit them. And others still say that despite being nocturnal they will still sometimes bask during the day so it should be provided. Mine is still a baby in and 84lt rub so I'm currently just using a heat mat and sitting an led lamp on top to provide a day/night cycle.
so would i be alright using a heat emitter and a pad, because my gecko can always openly see what time it is outside as he's exposed to two windows (there are still plenty of very dim spots for him), and i only own a red bulb, heat pad and ceramic emitter which ive read red bulbs are bad for leos
Can you tell me which wattage uv bulb I should use for my young brooks king which comes next week?ive ordered 50 and 60 watt but don’t know if this is correct?
Hi. This was very informative, thanks. We bought a pygme bearded dragon, and are finding it very difficult to get propper guidens regarding lighting. Do you have a recomandation? Thanks in behalf.
Have a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/UEcm0YwfAIg/w-d-xo.html
And this one: th-cam.com/video/8anor9zUB-c/w-d-xo.html
👍
@@JTBReptiles Thanks a lot. Would the setup from the blue lizards fit a pygme bearded dragon too? This a brand new world for me, and very unlike the horses I keep. Sons taking over the dragon with enclosure, obviously not suitable. So I'm out buying a new terrarium for the little fellow, and want to spend money best. Have been looking at a Exo Terra, but have been in doubt if how to install the lights with the mesh top it come with. Would you suggest we install all lights inside the enclosure, instead of on the top having the lights come through the mesh? Or maybe you have an entire different suggestion to a really good well functional setup/terrarium. Thanks you so much in behalf. Regards Lizzie
I'm getting a corn snake which lamp should I choose
I waiting for the day they invent a bulb that can also replicate sunrise and sun set
Maybe a rotating switch
You can just buy a dimmer with a timer.
Different wattage bulbs on onetime circuit
I already have it with some small fans for a cool side
I had a LED fixture for my aquarium by Fluval that you could set to do a sunrise and sunset and it would slowly “rise” and “set” based on a timer. It was pretty accurate if you fiddled with the settings to match actual sunrise and sunset
Is UVB only enough or both with UVB and UVA?
Great video. I've been curious about metal halides and also why a lot of European keepers tend to do so with no thermostat equipment. Looking forward to learning about this new temperature control method you're speaking of, although I'm sure by now I have a rough idea of what you're planning to do. Keep it up! 👍
Thanks for watching! The temperature control video is already in the works... I've only had one person look at it so far, and it spurred on a nearly two hour long conversation: it's going to be a ground breaker for many people.
I can see a logic for what you've hinted at so far but I'm also dispairing because I don't want to spend money on something redundant. I suppose reptile lighting group is the place to go in the meantime but keep up the good work.
Hi.question if I may?i will assume it’s ok....
Currently i’m using a solar basking floodlight 100w and T5shadeeweller (55cm from the designated spot for my boa) I assumed i’m covered for her need right? If I was using a deep heat I will need a jungle bar or something (knowing that I do not currently gat plants in my enclosure...?
Thks in advance young,you and others are of a great help.take care.
Forgot « man » after young but gat it right...🥴
What about just regular old incandescent bulbs
What brand tank is that ? I want a sliding full glass tank like that so bad.
Where do you get so much cork bark? Im in the US.
I’m in the UK so I can’t really help, sorry!
You ever have issues with feeding your herps mate? I have a baby Eastern Water Dragon i keep having to hand feed by rubbing the sides of the mouth because it simply won't eat when i leave the food in even when I leave it alone
Should Mercury vapour bulb be placed inside or on top of an enclosure?
What are you using it for?
@@JTBReptiles a bearded dragon
I presume you must be using an enclosure with a mesh top and not a wooden one like mine. In any case I wouldn’t use a mercury vapour lamp - they don’t do anything that other lamps can’t do better. T8 and T5 lamps are great for UVB, tungsten halogens for infrared, and LEDs and halides for visible light.
Is it just me or can I not find that Reptech metal halide lamp for the life of me? I'm in the Uk and I keep getting EU links on google.
Hi, where do you get your big vivariums from as I have found it hard to find any online.
The big glass one is from Custom Aquaria based in Rushden; the big wooden ones are from ReptiLife Vivaria 🙂
Thanks, what website can you get them? I tried searching ReptiLife vivaria and I did not get anywhere.
Where are you based? They’re UK companies, if you’re overseas they’ll be off-limits.
I’am in the uk.
Here’s the link to ReptiLife: www.repti-life.co.uk
You can also order via their Facebook (and send them dimensions for a custom viv if you want): facebook.com/Repti-life-Vivariums-337936213058193/
And here is Custom Aquaria’s Facebook (the best place to get in contact with them): facebook.com/CustomAquaria.Rushden/
👍
Googles solar meter 6.5...sees cost 😮
They are worth it, trust me!
This vid isn't useful when you don't actually highlight bulbs/tubes that you're not interested in discussing. The watcher can't make an informed decision on what could be suitable for them just because you don't like them or don't find them suitable to your specific setup.