Absolutely brilliant Jimmy...gonna try this method. Spent an hour trying to bleed my rear brake on my motorcycle only to find the hose was not holding the pressure
Hi Jimmy, I’ve done many brake jobs but had never heard or seen that grease trick. Made my job much easier after replacing all my calipers. Thanks for the video!
To add to that, even better when putting on new calipers, is to coat the bleeder screw threads with silicone grease from the get-go, take the brand new screw out of the brand new caliper and coat with grease before installing the caliper and beginning the bleed process. Plus, this makes breaking loose the bleeder screw, easier a few years later, once corrosion would have started.
I've been watching multiple videos on youtube on how to bleed with the vacuum bleeder. I keep coming back to this video because it's precise and easy to understand. First timer bleeder here so this tutorial was fantastic. Thank You. One thing I would have added was different types of grease that you can use on the bleeder to prevent air in/out.
Grease around the bleeder helps reduce outside air flowing past the bleeder screw threads only to be drawn in along with the fluid. thus the bubbles..and can't tell the air leak bubbles from those in the brake lines! But there is ALSO the good possibility...no the LIKELY PROBABILITY ..that air will leak past the hose fitted to the screw as the hose simply does not seal well enough. Grease may again help here but grease did little to help me. I ended up using Teflon tape on the bleed screw threads, greased around the screw once re-installed. AND... I even tie wrapped the hose to the screw as I had the screw in hand to wrap with Teflon. Did all this work? MUCH BETTER!! That you drew solid fluid first off indicates a good seal. You lucked out!! Thank you for this informative video sir!!
im struggling with this now. first time using the vacuum pump to bleed brakes and i have leaks in the threads AND at the hose-to-screw connection. I've wasted so much time and brake fluid trying to correct this
I have the Mityvac mv8000... I've had it for three or four years now and it definitely works great... Just recently I did a rotor, caliper and pad change on an HHR... I decided to use the Mityvac and then have my wife come out and do the "pump and crack the bleeder method" and I was getting more fluid pulled through to the bottle with the Mityvac then we were getting and the two-man operation... these definitely work really well if you've got everything connected properly.... Thanks Jimmy....🔧
Hello Jimmy! That is the biggest problem I had was air sneaking in through the bottom of the bleeder threads. I did not use the hand Vac first time. The best thing about the hand vac is you can see the pressure go down if leaking air in. Headed to HF to get this, I'll comment on results later. Thanks for sharing.
Great idea of putting grease around the bleeder valve threads to block air entry. I always wonder where all the air bubbles were coming from knowing that I throughly bled the brakes.
Air coming around threads with vaccum seems to be an issue. I liked that you mentioned regulating how far to open bleeder . I have read dialectic red grease or silglide is more compatible with brake fluid change than regular grease. Any experience on that in comments on that info being accurate would be nice
Hi Jimmy, The auto videos I like the most show the entire job. Not just one brake caliper. That way if I'm a little "iffy" about the procedure, I get to see it in this case on 4 wheels. Thanks for the video.
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I usually just install a clear line into a container , pump the brakes and keeps filling the reservoir so any back feed will have fluid in it. Do it until its clear. I think it does a good job because you are actually moving the brakes seals in and out.
Vacuum bleeding is too much time, labor, leaks and grease involved.. Easier method: Use the clear hose attached to the bleeder. Submerge the hose in a partially filled container..(plastic water bottle) with brake fluid. Always keep the hose submerged.. Crack the bleeder and pump the brake pedal until there are no more air bubbles in the clear hose. Tighten the bleeder valve when done.. Be sure the master cylinder reservoir is full before pumping. Thats it.... You can do it alone by observing the clear tube for bubbles between pumping sessions. Remove the bottle and discard the used brake fluid. No leaks, no grease, no vacuum pump... There are videos on this easier procedure.
I was wondering why so much air came out. This is the best video out there on how to bleed brakes, my second attempt after watching was far more successful. Thank you for the info!
I’m glad your not yelling anymore , like a flex seal infomercial! But this seems just like a Chris Fix video. I have learned a lot from that young man. Good tip on the grease
Very good. You showed while explaining what was happening. Short and to the point! I don't think the grease should be removed from the air vents... they tend to rust and block.
@@VincenzaV1 There aren't any threads on the fitting. Put a tiny dab of grease on your finger and rub it between your finger and thumb, so it's like your eating fried chicken and you got some on your fingers. Then rub your finger lightly around the fitting once. That's what I did, anyway.
Wes Garven there are threads on the bleeder screw, that’s what he was asking. No, the vacuum won’t pull grease into the caliper unless you turn the screw a lot
good tips that no other videos mention like the grease around the valve to block air and to keep vaccum nithe gun before removing the hose from the bleeder valve. short and to the point, Cool
Chris, I really like you and wish you were my neighbor, because I learned so much from you. Tomorrow I am replacing the Master Cylinder and bleeding the whole system after installing the Master Cylinder. You are a PRO!
Great tip with the grease. I've tried teflon tape around the threads, but it hasn't worked well. I've always had problems solo bleeding brakes. I'm going to give it another try today with grease.
Yes grease from the ouside. I'd made the mistake of taking the bleeder out greasing it then putting it back in. The grease dissolves air gets thru the thinned grease it does not go well. Glad you've shown them the way to just grease a dry bleeder.
No idea what you're talking about. It is a very good idea to grease the bleeder screw threads, but it may still be necessary to also put a bead of grease around the outside of them, where they meet the caliper.
So the HARBOR FREIGHT BLEEDER WORKED HUH ? My son bought 1 at AUTOZONE, JUNK TOTAL JUNK, TOOK IT BACK. Thanks I'll look into that bleeder at HF. IT'S ALSO NICE WHEN THE STUFF IS NEW not corroded to hell. I've used bubble gum in a pinch, what can I say ?
You're the first in these bleed the brakes yourself videos to mention the possibility of pulling in air around the threads. I've always been suspect of it. The grease is a great idea, but i'm still more comfortable with having someone else pump the brakes while I work the bleeder screw. Makes me think I'd like to come up with a system to pressurize the master cylinder and push fluid through.
It's a non-issue. Any air pulled in will be pulled in AFTER the bleeder valve. That is: it will be pulled into the tubing, NOT into the bleeder/caliper. You don't even need to use grease, because, again: any air pulled in will be pulled into the tubing and NOT the bleeder/caliper.
Except that's exactly why you need grease, IF you don't have a good seal without it. If you don't have a good seal, you have no way to determine when you are done bleeding because you will keep getting air bubbles. Plus it is not entirely true that it is just pulled into the tubing, instead it is pulled past the threads, then up through the bleeder screw, meaning that when you think you are done, your bleeder screw itself is still potentially filled with air. Not much, but to opt to have that extra air by default, does not make a lot of sense due to being counter to exactly what you're trying to accomplish which is get out as much, even ALL the air that you can. Plus there is another great reason to use the grease, that if viscous enough to stay put, it helps to seal the threads, at least for a while, from external corrosion that can make it more difficult and potentially damaging to crack the bleeder screw again years later. Essentially it is what the manufacturer should have done in the first place!!!! @@cw4623
The air behind the threads is not harmful when using vacuum pump, it’s coming out, not in. It may make harder to understand when the brakes were bled but typically the size of bubbles is different and you can tell
Nope, it is going in. It is going in past the threads, then around and up through the bleeder screw, which means that you will never get that air out of the bleeder screw if the threads are leaking because it keeps introducing more air, as well as never knowing when the bleeding is done because air keeps coming out. Just no, it makes no sense whatsoever to pretend that any leak is acceptable if trying to get the job done well.
@@stinkycheese804wrong. The air coming past the threads is going into the bleeder not back into the brake line. You are dumb lol. Do yourself a favor and don’t ever touch anyone’s car please. 🙏 Thank you sir
Wow very good some really good tips here! Haven’t heard that grease tip to get a better seal. Could never figure out why I had air leaks around that. Thanks!
I use a check valve on the tubing so while I pump the pedal the fluid doesn't go backwards. I did search around for a check valve that was rated to handle the brake fluid.
Could have been a little more detail. Like to check the master after each brake is bleed cuz if it runs low, air will go into the line. Proper way to bleed is Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front(closest to the master). Also, I thought your suppose to pump to 20 before you release the brake fluid and try to keep it that as well until no more bubbles?
I had an old kit which used tire pressure to push brake fluid from the master cyclinder - worked really good. Only catch with a pressure bleeder is that you need a tight fitting cap for it work.
Meh, DOT4 becomes less heat tolerant after it absorbs more moisture. I never run brake systems where they'd heat up enough to matter but if you do, it is something to consider.
1Road: You didn't mention which grease type or brand you used. That would help. Many types are out there, and some have additives that are not recommended for vinyl tubing or brake parts. Light grease used in the video? This info would help DIY mechanics just starting out. Your video had several other good tips which will help.Tx.
Meh, just use standard NLGI 2 lithium complex grease that everyone already has in their garage. If you happen to also have silicone paste grease, even better. By the way, it is irrelevant what is recommended for brake parts because in this instance, there is no brake seal it is in contact with, just metal to metal between the bleeder screw and caliper tapped metal hole. What is more likely an issue with a cheap kit like this and after time passes, is the vinyl tubing will get stiff and not seal well, is something that will need replaced every few years or less depending on exposure, including high temps or sun ( UV damage).
Hey guys. I am a bit confused. Some videos say farthest from the master cylinder. Some videos say farthest from the ABS module. My master cylinder is on the driver side and my ABS module is on the passenger side. So, what should be the right sequence in this situation? Thanks in advance.
If your hard line goes from master cylinder to ABS on passenger side, then down the passenger side frame rail, then you would do the furthest from the ABS module which would be the left rear, first.
Another great video thers only a few good videos on this the grease is the key most people that try don’t use grease and can’t get a vacuum and then say it’s the cheap harbour freight tool but it the tool that’s using it don’t have a clue so very good informative video well done
I am now a monthly donor. I am a low income individual who realized it's not always about taking , but giving. May God have mercy on these precious little souls .
So I'm replacing front calipers. I saw how you did the one wheel. Wouldn't we still have to do all 4 wheels? Starting farthest away from Master cylinder???
what type of grease do you recommend to put around the bleeder valve for possible leaks? Getting ready to do this and want to do it right the first time. Thank you
Ive heard that you start at the wheel furthest from the ABS module (if your vehicle has one) not the master cylinder. Is this information correct? Also if iam only replacing the rear calipers do i need to bleed all 4, or just the 2 i replaced? Without a big jack and jack stands its a pain to individually jack up all 4 wheels one at a time with a little jack
I rather like the pressure bleeding method - you just need to buy one spare brake fluid cap, drill a hole and put a bike valve in it. Screw it on the master cylinder reservoir and pressurize using reduction valve outlet on an air compressor with 20psi max. Then simply walk around the wheels and bleed the brakes. No need to pump with your hand forever on all 4 wheels.
I think the vacuum bleed cannot work as the seals in the hydraulic cylinders are made to take pressure, (obviously), so by applying vacuum air is drawn past the seal into the system, but by pressure bleeding the seals are pressed against the cylinder walls.
Because it's important this question has the correct answer. No it would not get in the brake system because of the vacuum properties of the line. Theoretically, if any grease gets sucked into the line - it will just go into the bottle - you'll dispose of it anyways. There is no fluid entering the brake system here.
Meh no, it is not really important. If a trivial level of grease gets in, it is mere trivia. It might deposit in the bleeder screw cavity but it's not going to be a problem. @@jetfire245
On my 2006 town and country I bought last year upon really close brake inspection the rotors, calipers and pads were one big rusted mess. The pads never touched the rear rotors for years. I bought all new calipers, rotors and pads. After installation I went to bleed them. The fluid did not start to flow into the tubing until the brakes were pumped 7 times. I used an assistant to constantly pump the brakes. I used tubing and a pop bottle. The fluid was black at first and cleared up. I always could see tiny bubbles tightly packed together after every cycle of brake pedal presses.
ok I tried that - a few comments: 1) my vacuum pump DID created and hold pressure perfectly when I put my tumb at the end of the tube 2) it did NOT however hold pressure when I connected it to the bleeding nipple, once I've open the valve for bleeding than pressure falls down and liquid will not come out. 3) I tried to put grease on the nipple and adapter - did not help 4) I tried zip tied it - also did not help 5) I tried smaller tube - did not help 6) I tried without adapter (just tube) - did not help even with zip tied and grease eventually I ended up using a bottle and a friend pumping the brake what have I done wrong?
Best way is to clamp the break hose .Undo the bleeder screw and put a thin layer of greese on the threads.Replace bleeder screw unclamp line .......no air at all getting in asking as hose on tight .
OK so the tool i bought similar to yours does work great, however the grease im using is not all i had in my garage is bearing grease and its not thick enough in this texas heat..as soon as i break vac with opening port, lose vac..its come close a few times but no cigar..what GREASE exactly are you using??
What do you mean when you said you had preflushed the system when you changed the calipers? Im planing on removing mine to paint them, would the process be the same? Should i flush the system before i remove calipers or after i install them?
An even easier method is to use a water bottle large one 20-30oz. Drill a hole in the center of the lid so the clear tubing fits snugly in the hole and then a smaller vent hole in the cap. Fill the bottle with just enough brake fluid so the tubing is submerged this will prevent air being sucked back in. Crack open the bleeder screw get in vehicle push the brake pedal 10-15 times making sure to check level at master until there are no bubbles showing in line. Make sure to start with the RR then LR move to the PS then DS. The ABS module would have to be bled using a scan tool that can activate and bleed the module. Actually no grease needed since the hose in bottle is submerged in the brake fluid not allowing any air to get back into the system.
While it is true that no grease is needed using the old school method, it can often be the case that if doing it with only one person, that when you let up off the brake pedal, there is still some air in the tubing that gets sucked back into the caliper. The method in the video is an easier way to make sure this doesn't happen due to both drawing a vac, and being right in front of it to see the bubbles.
Thanks chrisFix - loving the new channel.
Hahaha! (Horse teeth)
I laughed so hard at this comment!
Bwahahaha! First thing I thought 2! Gotta be related
Lol
Kkkkk, I would said the same.
But I would be doing the same like this guy on video, by the way my name is Dan too.
Absolutely brilliant Jimmy...gonna try this method. Spent an hour trying to bleed my rear brake on my motorcycle only to find the hose was not holding the pressure
I had the same frustration with air at the bleeder and will try the grease trick. This was so frustrating! Thanks for the help.
Hi Jimmy, I’ve done many brake jobs but had never heard or seen that grease trick. Made my job much easier after replacing all my calipers. Thanks for the video!
To add to that, even better when putting on new calipers, is to coat the bleeder screw threads with silicone grease from the get-go, take the brand new screw out of the brand new caliper and coat with grease before installing the caliper and beginning the bleed process. Plus, this makes breaking loose the bleeder screw, easier a few years later, once corrosion would have started.
I've been watching multiple videos on youtube on how to bleed with the vacuum bleeder. I keep coming back to this video because it's precise and easy to understand. First timer bleeder here so this tutorial was fantastic. Thank You. One thing I would have added was different types of grease that you can use on the bleeder to prevent air in/out.
You should use silicone grease. It’s a lot thicker and it doesn’t liquefy as easy.
I find using plumber's putty to work really well from preventing air from sneaking in from the thread.
Grease around the bleeder helps reduce outside air flowing past the bleeder screw threads only to be drawn in along with the fluid. thus the bubbles..and can't tell the air leak bubbles from those in the brake lines! But there is ALSO the good possibility...no the LIKELY PROBABILITY ..that air will leak past the hose fitted to the screw as the hose simply does not seal well enough. Grease may again help here but grease did little to help me. I ended up using Teflon tape on the bleed screw threads, greased around the screw once re-installed. AND... I even tie wrapped the hose to the screw as I had the screw in hand to wrap with Teflon. Did all this work? MUCH BETTER!! That you drew solid fluid first off indicates a good seal. You lucked out!! Thank you for this informative video sir!!
im struggling with this now. first time using the vacuum pump to bleed brakes and i have leaks in the threads AND at the hose-to-screw connection. I've wasted so much time and brake fluid trying to correct this
question wouldnt you have to remove that teflon tape after bleed process ? or you just left it there ?
Just do it the old way and get someone to pump the pedal!!!
Best auto mech vid ive ever seen. Well spoken, no xtra fluff. Clear directions. Thanks
I almost threw away my HF bleed pump. That grease trick is amazing. Thanks!
I'm going to give it another go with the grease trick now...
@@shoonger001 I bet marine grease would work too.
What kind of grease can we use on the bleeder valve?
@@j0lla127 silicone based grease mostly
Great instruction. The tips about the grease and sight opening of the valve were huge for me! Great job.
I have the Mityvac mv8000... I've had it for three or four years now and it definitely works great... Just recently I did a rotor, caliper and pad change on an HHR... I decided to use the Mityvac and then have my wife come out and do the "pump and crack the bleeder method" and I was getting more fluid pulled through to the bottle with the Mityvac then we were getting and the two-man operation... these definitely work really well if you've got everything connected properly.... Thanks Jimmy....🔧
Knowledge from experience is the greatest gift one person can give to another, great video!
Best video demonstration using this tool by far! Clear and concise, thank you!
Love the ChrisFix comments....that is immediately what I caught on to. Wonder how many subscribers think they are subscribed to ChrisFix...LOL
Hello Jimmy! That is the biggest problem I had was air sneaking in through the bottom of the bleeder threads. I did not use the hand Vac first time. The best thing about the hand vac is you can see the pressure go down if leaking air in. Headed to HF to get this, I'll comment on results later. Thanks for sharing.
How was it? Need to grab one tomorrow my brakes are losing pressure rapidly
Channeling @chrisFix with this delivery. Even the hand gestures are on point. Does this system work for bleeding blinker fluid?
hahaha
A real man doesn't attempt to shortcut the bleeding of blinker fluid.
I thought this was chris fix untill he said his name is Jimmy
Great idea of putting grease around the bleeder valve threads to block air entry. I always wonder where all the air bubbles were coming from knowing that I throughly bled the brakes.
This is exactly what I needed to see. Was introducing air via dry threads and a valve opened too far.
Air coming around threads with vaccum seems to be an issue. I liked that you mentioned regulating how far to open bleeder . I have read dialectic red grease or silglide is more compatible with brake fluid change than regular grease. Any experience on that in comments on that info being accurate would be nice
Hi Jimmy, The auto videos I like the most show the entire job. Not just one brake caliper. That way if I'm a little "iffy" about the procedure, I get to see it in this case on 4 wheels. Thanks for the video.
I usually just install a clear line into a container , pump the brakes and keeps filling the reservoir so any back feed will have fluid in it. Do it until its clear. I think it does a good job because you are actually moving the brakes seals in and out.
Jimmy this is the best tutorial I have ever seen on brake bleeding 👏👏👏👏👏
Haha! Really? Thanks!!
@@1RoadGarage Yep, thx again really useful
Thanks! I will definitely try greasing 3:05!
I was suspecting some air gets into the system via the thread.
Vacuum bleeding is too much time, labor, leaks and grease involved..
Easier method: Use the clear hose attached to the bleeder.
Submerge the hose in a partially filled container..(plastic water bottle) with brake fluid. Always keep the hose submerged.. Crack the bleeder and pump the brake pedal until there are no more air bubbles in the clear hose. Tighten the bleeder valve when done.. Be sure the master cylinder reservoir is full before pumping.
Thats it.... You can do it alone by observing the clear tube for bubbles between pumping sessions. Remove the bottle and discard the used brake fluid. No leaks, no grease, no vacuum pump... There are videos on this easier procedure.
The grease trick is great and is in a lot of vids on bleeding the brake fluid. Great video! Thank you!
I was wondering why so much air came out. This is the best video out there on how to bleed brakes, my second attempt after watching was far more successful. Thank you for the info!
I’m glad your not yelling anymore , like a flex seal infomercial! But this seems just like a Chris Fix video. I have learned a lot from that young man. Good tip on the grease
Nice, been doing this for 50 years. Good reminder.
Very good.
You showed while explaining what was happening. Short and to the point!
I don't think the grease should be removed from the air vents... they tend to rust and block.
Important.... Always start at the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Thank you. It was driving me crazy trying to bleed my brakes. Vacuum would not hold.
Good tip on adding grease around the fitting. Thank you, I wouldn't have thought of that.
Wouldn't the vacuum you created then suck grease past the threads into the caliper/fluid?
@@VincenzaV1 There aren't any threads on the fitting. Put a tiny dab of grease on your finger and rub it between your finger and thumb, so it's like your eating fried chicken and you got some on your fingers. Then rub your finger lightly around the fitting once. That's what I did, anyway.
Wes Garven there are threads on the bleeder screw, that’s what he was asking. No, the vacuum won’t pull grease into the caliper unless you turn the screw a lot
good tips that no other videos mention like the grease around the valve to block air and to keep vaccum nithe gun before removing the hose from the bleeder valve. short and to the point, Cool
I did mine this afternoon and totally forgot about using the grease. That's why I have to do the front ones all over.
Turned out the grease wasn't the problem. I blew the seals on the master cylinder.
nice formula ! Anyone else think this guy is knocking off “Chris Fix”?
No
Nah
Chris, I really like you and wish you were my neighbor, because I learned so much from you. Tomorrow I am replacing the Master Cylinder and bleeding the whole system after installing the Master Cylinder. You are a PRO!
It's not Chris lol
What kind of grease was that?
Just for a tip who ever is watching this just put a small zip tie on the tubes instead of Greece if you want to make it a cleaner job and easier.
Great tip with the grease. I've tried teflon tape around the threads, but it hasn't worked well. I've always had problems solo bleeding brakes. I'm going to give it another try today with grease.
Well?
I too would like to know how it turned out.
Try turning the bleeder valve very slightly, say an eighth turn.
Yes grease from the ouside. I'd made the mistake of taking the bleeder out greasing it then putting it back in.
The grease dissolves air gets thru the thinned grease it does not go well. Glad you've shown them the way to just grease a dry bleeder.
No idea what you're talking about. It is a very good idea to grease the bleeder screw threads, but it may still be necessary to also put a bead of grease around the outside of them, where they meet the caliper.
Perfect video thank you! Won't be struggling on brake bleeding attempt #2 this week!
So the HARBOR FREIGHT BLEEDER WORKED HUH ? My son bought 1 at AUTOZONE, JUNK TOTAL JUNK, TOOK IT BACK. Thanks I'll look into that bleeder at HF. IT'S ALSO NICE WHEN THE STUFF IS NEW not corroded to hell. I've used bubble gum in a pinch, what can I say ?
Im.happy that I found this video, this is the redeemer of this product
You're the first in these bleed the brakes yourself videos to mention the possibility of pulling in air around the threads. I've always been suspect of it. The grease is a great idea, but i'm still more comfortable with having someone else pump the brakes while I work the bleeder screw. Makes me think I'd like to come up with a system to pressurize the master cylinder and push fluid through.
The motive powerbleeder is exactly what you're looking for!
It's a non-issue. Any air pulled in will be pulled in AFTER the bleeder valve. That is: it will be pulled into the tubing, NOT into the bleeder/caliper. You don't even need to use grease, because, again: any air pulled in will be pulled into the tubing and NOT the bleeder/caliper.
Grease helps to create a good seal which allows fluid to flow faster.
Except that's exactly why you need grease, IF you don't have a good seal without it. If you don't have a good seal, you have no way to determine when you are done bleeding because you will keep getting air bubbles.
Plus it is not entirely true that it is just pulled into the tubing, instead it is pulled past the threads, then up through the bleeder screw, meaning that when you think you are done, your bleeder screw itself is still potentially filled with air.
Not much, but to opt to have that extra air by default, does not make a lot of sense due to being counter to exactly what you're trying to accomplish which is get out as much, even ALL the air that you can. Plus there is another great reason to use the grease, that if viscous enough to stay put, it helps to seal the threads, at least for a while, from external corrosion that can make it more difficult and potentially damaging to crack the bleeder screw again years later. Essentially it is what the manufacturer should have done in the first place!!!! @@cw4623
My HF bleed pump could not create a vacuum greater than 7 psi so it was worthless to me. The process, with proper hardware, is still sound.
The air behind the threads is not harmful when using vacuum pump, it’s coming out, not in. It may make harder to understand when the brakes were bled but typically the size of bubbles is different and you can tell
Nope, it is going in. It is going in past the threads, then around and up through the bleeder screw, which means that you will never get that air out of the bleeder screw if the threads are leaking because it keeps introducing more air, as well as never knowing when the bleeding is done because air keeps coming out. Just no, it makes no sense whatsoever to pretend that any leak is acceptable if trying to get the job done well.
@@stinkycheese804 how is it going in? Yes it’s coming in through the threads but then escaping back to the pump. It never makes it into the circuit.
@@stinkycheese804wrong. The air coming past the threads is going into the bleeder not back into the brake line. You are dumb lol. Do yourself a favor and don’t ever touch anyone’s car please. 🙏 Thank you sir
Well done. Love the detailed narration. Thank you. It helps.
Grease around the bleeder valve...awesome tip!
Wow very good some really good tips here! Haven’t heard that grease tip to get a better seal. Could never figure out why I had air leaks around that. Thanks!
I always use a power bleeder works perfect every time little expensive but I consider it a good investment for perfect brakes
I might invest in one of those too!
Short simple and to the point thank you.
I use plumbers putty works like a charm
I use a check valve on the tubing so while I pump the pedal the fluid doesn't go backwards. I did search around for a check valve that was rated to handle the brake fluid.
Thank for showing how the tube attached to the bleeder valve
I just chew on the valve caps until I'm done.
You should “stop” doing that it might “brake” your teef lol
Yum
Important to mention keeping the reservoir full so you don’t suck air back in.
That is really crucial, it sucks when this happens. Don't ask me how I know 😁
Aluminum calipers can make brake fluid turn green after a long period of time too
Could have been a little more detail. Like to check the master after each brake is bleed cuz if it runs low, air will go into the line. Proper way to bleed is Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front(closest to the master). Also, I thought your suppose to pump to 20 before you release the brake fluid and try to keep it that as well until no more bubbles?
Good grease tip btw.
There is no need to reach or hold *exactly* 20 vac, just to keep a vac on it as long as the bleeder screw is cracked open.
Thanks For the video, jimmy. Apply a little grease to the beelder value. It's works better.
I had an old kit which used tire pressure to push brake fluid from the master cyclinder - worked really good. Only catch with a pressure bleeder is that you need a tight fitting cap for it work.
As a note, you can use DOT 4 in place of DOT 3 fluid but not vica versa. DOT 4 is just more heat tollerant.
Meh, DOT4 becomes less heat tolerant after it absorbs more moisture. I never run brake systems where they'd heat up enough to matter but if you do, it is something to consider.
Awesome video!
1Road: You didn't mention which grease type or brand you used. That would help. Many types are out there, and some have additives that are not recommended for vinyl tubing or brake parts. Light grease used in the video? This info would help DIY mechanics just starting out. Your video had several other good tips which will help.Tx.
Meh, just use standard NLGI 2 lithium complex grease that everyone already has in their garage. If you happen to also have silicone paste grease, even better.
By the way, it is irrelevant what is recommended for brake parts because in this instance, there is no brake seal it is in contact with, just metal to metal between the bleeder screw and caliper tapped metal hole.
What is more likely an issue with a cheap kit like this and after time passes, is the vinyl tubing will get stiff and not seal well, is something that will need replaced every few years or less depending on exposure, including high temps or sun ( UV damage).
Love your videos. I see of people video was good Clear details to work break bleeder pump thank
Hey guys. I am a bit confused. Some videos say farthest from the master cylinder. Some videos say farthest from the ABS module. My master cylinder is on the driver side and my ABS module is on the passenger side. So, what should be the right sequence in this situation? Thanks in advance.
If your hard line goes from master cylinder to ABS on passenger side, then down the passenger side frame rail, then you would do the furthest from the ABS module which would be the left rear, first.
Great video but my vacuum pump like this wouldn't work , drew the vac ok but just pulled air even after greasing the thread on the nipple .
Then you find where it is leaking and seal that. Many people with similar kits, have stated that their fluid catch canister had a leaky o-ring.
It worked fantastic! Thanks for doing the video.
Another great video thers only a few good videos on this the grease is the key most people that try don’t use grease and can’t get a vacuum and then say it’s the cheap harbour freight tool but it the tool that’s using it don’t have a clue so very good informative video well done
I am now a monthly donor. I am a low income individual who realized it's not always about taking , but giving. May God have mercy on these precious little souls .
So I'm replacing front calipers. I saw how you did the one wheel. Wouldn't we still have to do all 4 wheels? Starting farthest away from Master cylinder???
Great tip about the greese
Are you related to chrisfix? U sound similar 🤔
what type of grease do you recommend to put around the bleeder valve for possible leaks? Getting ready to do this and want to do it right the first time. Thank you
Excellent tip with the grease 👍🏽🧰🔧👊🏽
Thanx my man and a great tip with the grease 👍
Great Video Jimmy. Thank you. Bill
Ive heard that you start at the wheel furthest from the ABS module (if your vehicle has one) not the master cylinder. Is this information correct? Also if iam only replacing the rear calipers do i need to bleed all 4, or just the 2 i replaced? Without a big jack and jack stands its a pain to individually jack up all 4 wheels one at a time with a little jack
I rather like the pressure bleeding method - you just need to buy one spare brake fluid cap, drill a hole and put a bike valve in it. Screw it on the master cylinder reservoir and pressurize using reduction valve outlet on an air compressor with 20psi max. Then simply walk around the wheels and bleed the brakes. No need to pump with your hand forever on all 4 wheels.
That does sound easy...
Just what I will try in the morning.
I think the vacuum bleed cannot work as the seals in the hydraulic cylinders are made to take pressure, (obviously), so by applying vacuum air is drawn past the seal into the system, but by pressure bleeding the seals are pressed against the cylinder walls.
By using grease, wouldn't that somehow enter through the bleeder valve and contaminate the brake system?
Very thick grease so no
Because it's important this question has the correct answer. No it would not get in the brake system because of the vacuum properties of the line. Theoretically, if any grease gets sucked into the line - it will just go into the bottle - you'll dispose of it anyways. There is no fluid entering the brake system here.
Meh no, it is not really important. If a trivial level of grease gets in, it is mere trivia. It might deposit in the bleeder screw cavity but it's not going to be a problem. @@jetfire245
Please keep all grease away from braking systems - exception - ok to use red rubber grease, made specifically for hydraulic brake systems.
You're a badass. Thank you for the informative video.
Might want to mention that the break bleeding kit you are using is $70 at Harbor Freight.
$25
Good information
Thanks
Will vacuum bleeding remove air from a master cylinder that wasn't properly bench bled?
Is there only 1 type of grease to buy from the auto store?
On my 2006 town and country I bought last year upon really close brake inspection the rotors, calipers and pads were one big rusted mess. The pads never touched the rear rotors for years. I bought all new calipers, rotors and pads. After installation I went to bleed them. The fluid did not start to flow into the tubing until the brakes were pumped 7 times. I used an assistant to constantly pump the brakes. I used tubing and a pop bottle. The fluid was black at first and cleared up. I always could see tiny bubbles tightly packed together after every cycle of brake pedal presses.
ok I tried that - a few comments:
1) my vacuum pump DID created and hold pressure perfectly when I put my tumb at the end of the tube
2) it did NOT however hold pressure when I connected it to the bleeding nipple, once I've open the valve for bleeding than pressure falls down and liquid will not come out.
3) I tried to put grease on the nipple and adapter - did not help
4) I tried zip tied it - also did not help
5) I tried smaller tube - did not help
6) I tried without adapter (just tube) - did not help even with zip tied and grease
eventually I ended up using a bottle and a friend pumping the brake
what have I done wrong?
I suspect you opened the bleeder screw too much. Just 1/4 to 1/2 turn is all you want to open it
Best way is to clamp the break hose .Undo the bleeder screw and put a thin layer of greese on the threads.Replace bleeder screw unclamp line .......no air at all getting in asking as hose on tight .
This should be the #1 top video on TH-cam when you type in vacuum brake bleed!
I use teflon tape instead of grease.
OK so the tool i bought similar to yours does work great, however the grease im using is not all i had in my garage is bearing grease and its not thick enough in this texas heat..as soon as i break vac with opening port, lose vac..its come close a few times but no cigar..what GREASE exactly are you using??
psa seal bleeder with teflon tape
thanks for the trick is amazing-smart
What do you mean when you said you had preflushed the system when you changed the calipers? Im planing on removing mine to paint them, would the process be the same? Should i flush the system before i remove calipers or after i install them?
Is it okay to use silicone paste that goes in the caliper pistons to seal the tube over the bleeder valve?
Yes you can use silicone paste but I've no idea why you suggest "that goes in the caliper pistons". Silicone grease does not go into caliper pistons.
Thanks Chris.
Hi. What number is supposed to stay at 10 ? When bleeding the fluid ?
Multiple Grease is good to apply right?
Awesome vid
An even easier method is to use a water bottle large one 20-30oz. Drill a hole in the center of the lid so the clear tubing fits snugly in the hole and then a smaller vent hole in the cap. Fill the bottle with just enough brake fluid so the tubing is submerged this will prevent air being sucked back in. Crack open the bleeder screw get in vehicle push the brake pedal 10-15 times making sure to check level at master until there are no bubbles showing in line. Make sure to start with the RR then LR move to the PS then DS. The ABS module would have to be bled using a scan tool that can activate and bleed the module. Actually no grease needed since the hose in bottle is submerged in the brake fluid not allowing any air to get back into the system.
While it is true that no grease is needed using the old school method, it can often be the case that if doing it with only one person, that when you let up off the brake pedal, there is still some air in the tubing that gets sucked back into the caliper. The method in the video is an easier way to make sure this doesn't happen due to both drawing a vac, and being right in front of it to see the bubbles.