You could've done the 1 man pumping using this setup. Use a clear tube hose instead so you can see if there's any bubbles in the line thats going to the bottle. Look up Chris Fix doing 1 man brake bleeding on you tube.
Great tip! I was skeptical of this method until I tried it on my 04 Civic after replacing all the brake lines but it actually worked well. I still used the 2 person method afterwards to make sure there was no air left and there was a tad, but not much and if I let it drip a little longer it may have gotten all the air out. Besides, most people aren't starting with a completely empty master cylinder and totally empty brake lines. It worked for my clutch too. I will definitely use this method for fluid changes from now on.
Nice tip on the 3M Silicone Paste! I love finding new applications for this Super Grease! Superb for Di-electric, corrosion protection & melting point far surpasses Vaseline!
Can you use Permatex Silicone Dielectric Grease? That's all I have. How much brake fluid did you have to add in this process? I saw the level in the bottle go up a pretty huge amount!
You had air being sucked into the system somewhere higher up in the line or lines. The volume of the entire brake line system shouldn't be more that the bottle filling it. Hence the time and sudden cut to a screen stating it took an hour. True evidence of success would have been showing the submerged tube no longer pushing air and volume was still increasing before closing the bleeder.🙂
A one way bleeder check valve kit = 10 bucks, cheaper then a small bottle of DOT 5, gravity bleed is OK if you have all day and a lot of brake fluid to waste .
Do not reuse glycol based fluids after bleeding.. even if it's new. It remains the air, for weeks/months even. Buy more than u need.. toss what's left if u used it to bleed. The pumping action will entrap new air and any old air in the system.
Gravity bleeding is the wrong way to bleed brakes, as for one person to bleed brakes by themselves is easily done, first being sure master cylinder is completely full then having the bottle with hose set up connected to the first bleeder being sure hose is submerged into clean brake fluid then opening valve up quarter turn making sure the fluid is starting to drain, then go pump the brakes ten times then go back to the bleeder valve tighten it back up then repeat to do others the same way though being sure the master cylinder is full each time before pumping the brakes, no need for two people i have always done it this way for years its very easy..
In was thinking the same thing. If the hose is submerged in brake fluid you could pump the brakes yourself. But wouldn’t that also risk sucking old brake fluid back in while pumping?
Leave it open.... but this method is not used in shops. Air can get trapped and simply won't come out. And you won't know until things get hot and your cars in the back of someone else's.
I’ve been doing the two man method a whole bunch of air came out then som fluid and then it seamed to completely stop. Did you do this with master cylinder cap on or off? I’m going to try it
I couldn’t get it to bleed with the two man method it wouldn’t fill the line with fluid it had some fluid a bunch of bubbles then no fluid and then seamed like nothing was coming out at all?
remove the nipple the hose attaches to. it should unscrew and there is a tiny hole that is probably clogged with rust. use a toothpick or similar to press it though then try again by pressing your peddle. Just noticed this was 2 years ago. Answered question anyway.
Old fluid can get sucked back in, air can get in through the bleeder too. This method is NOT supposed to be used to bleed brakes... only to get the fluid down to the calipers... then pump.... just use a pump or two man method from the jump. Trapped air can expose itself once the system is hot and your sitting in the back of someone's car wondering wtf happened
@@michaeldelarm1630 comment of the month. I just spit my coffee out! You seem pretty knowledgeable. A related question: if you are not going to flush fluid but are only replacing pads and rotors, when you compress the piston(s) back into the caliper, you are supposed to open the bleed valve slightly to avoid damaging the ABS, correct? And if you do that, can air enter the bleed valve requiring bleeding?
The weight of the fluid is pushing the air out. This method isn't great. You can have trapped air you won't know about until the system gets hot and your rear ending someone
because fluid is heavier than air lol, pretty simple. Not fast but if you pour water in a hose while holding one end up, its gonna run out the end thats lower.....right?? IDK what is so confusing about this lol.
I agree, that is a good question. As with water air is more buoyant than brake fluid. If you didn't have the new fluid in the output clear bottle you would see air being sucked up a clear tube while fluid was running out. In this video there is clearly air getting into the brake lines from some point in the system, not the from tube submerged but somewhere in the system. It is evident that the volume of fluid that came out was so large he had to remove some fluid from the bottle yet, air was also still being pushed. Think of a plastic straw from that time you got one that was smashed and cracked from your favorite fast food chain. When you tried to drink air was being introduced so you got some soda but also air. That is what is happening in this system. Air is coming in higher up in the lines, and also fluid. In any case this would normally work without that length of time as long as there was no air also being introduced into the system, likely from a loose line connection since he just replaced a cylinder.
No and no. You need the hose in the fluid to keep air from going back in... could suck up old fluid though, could also suck air through bleeders. This method is bad because you can't get trapped air out this way, and you might not know it until the system gets hot and next thing ya know your kissing a Kia fortes trunk.
@@michaeldelarm1630 With the traditional method of pumping the brake pedal, the hose would need to be submerged. With gravity bleed, the fluid is constantly pushing the fluid and air out, therefore no air being sucked back in. Because the poster didn't use a clear tube he needed it to be submerged in order to watch air bubbles dissipate. I worked at a car dealership service center where this is common practice because techs would work on other vehicles while watching over the brake bleeding. You just have to make sure the master didn't run dry.
The reservoir is above the calipers so the fluid pushes the air out... not a good way to get air out lol use two people or a pump... if need be use a piece of wood as a clamp on the pedal after pumping... if you're by yourself
How to maybe get all air out.... people gotta stop advertising this method like it's the best. When In facts it's the worst method.... you use it to get fluid to all corners when do lines... not to get air out. Someone's gonna learn the hard way one day smh
You know that if you had used the brake pedal you would have finished in a few minutes. The amount of brake fluid you drain is way more than the system actually holds. This does not seem practical
That takes way too long and wastes too much fluid. MANUAL BLEEDING This is the way I do it. Takes no time at all in comparison. Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed. Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence: Right Rear Wheel Left Rear Wheel Right Front Wheel Left Front Wheel 1. Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir. 2. If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more before proceeding. 3. Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and insert opposite end in glass container partially filled with brake fluid. Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid. 4. Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
I am not so sure of gravity bleeding. personally i think pump the brake and open the bleeder screw. if you are letting gravity bleed the it would seem there would always be some kind of air in the cylinder because there is not pressure to push more fluid to fill the cylinder. I would trust bleeding with some one pushing the brake pedal down. i guess to each his own. but you are correct you would need a gallon of brake fluid it seems to gravity bleed.
@@TheJcrandazzo I dont buy that theory it would be the same as pushing the brake to stop the vehicle. if the seals are bad to begin with yes pumping the brake pedal would by pass the seal or o-ring. the two man method was used many many years and no problems arise if the master is good in the first place.
Why not use clear hose so you can monitor bubbles and color of fluid coming out.
A lot are using the sprayer head off a spray bottle. Use clear tubing from sprayer straw to bleed nipple. And pump the sprayer trigger.
You could've done the 1 man pumping using this setup. Use a clear tube hose instead so you can see if there's any bubbles in the line thats going to the bottle. Look up Chris Fix doing 1 man brake bleeding on you tube.
That many air bubbles and fluid went through your line.
Was one of the other valves open or did you have a leak?
Great tip! I was skeptical of this method until I tried it on my 04 Civic after replacing all the brake lines but it actually worked well. I still used the 2 person method afterwards to make sure there was no air left and there was a tad, but not much and if I let it drip a little longer it may have gotten all the air out. Besides, most people aren't starting with a completely empty master cylinder and totally empty brake lines. It worked for my clutch too. I will definitely use this method for fluid changes from now on.
It's inferior af dude. Can't be trusted. You need pressure to be 💯
I usually do all four at once. It works.
How?
Nice tip on the 3M Silicone Paste! I love finding new applications for this Super Grease! Superb for Di-electric, corrosion protection & melting point far surpasses Vaseline!
But......In the beginning of the video you said it takes about 10 minutes lol
Can you use Permatex Silicone Dielectric Grease? That's all I have. How much brake fluid did you have to add in this process? I saw the level in the bottle go up a pretty huge amount!
You had air being sucked into the system somewhere higher up in the line or lines. The volume of the entire brake line system shouldn't be more that the bottle filling it. Hence the time and sudden cut to a screen stating it took an hour. True evidence of success would have been showing the submerged tube no longer pushing air and volume was still increasing before closing the bleeder.🙂
Looked to me like he's pulling air through the threads on the bleeder valve possibly from cracking it too far open. 🤔
A one way bleeder check valve kit = 10 bucks, cheaper then a small bottle of DOT 5, gravity bleed is OK if you have all day and a lot of brake fluid to waste .
And if you're not worried about trapped air.
No idea why, but gravity bleeding has NEVER worked for me on any old (90s or older) vehicle I have owned.
Wow, seems like a lot of fluid to get the air out, times 4.
Why were there still bubbles at 6:35? Did you purse your lips and blow into the reservoir fill =)
I thought you were onto something then I seen how much fluid and time it took😅😅
Do you need to have the hose in the bottle submerged the entire time? And if so, does it have to be submerged in clean brake fluid?
You have to or it will suck in air. .. keep the hose submerged and you'll be fine .
@@jedidias7091 thanks for your reply, appreciate it.
Do not reuse glycol based fluids after bleeding.. even if it's new. It remains the air, for weeks/months even. Buy more than u need.. toss what's left if u used it to bleed. The pumping action will entrap new air and any old air in the system.
Gravity bleeding is the wrong way to bleed brakes, as for one person to bleed brakes by themselves is easily done, first being sure master cylinder is completely full then having the bottle with hose set up connected to the first bleeder being sure hose is submerged into clean brake fluid then opening valve up quarter turn making sure the fluid is starting to drain, then go pump the brakes ten times then go back to the bleeder valve tighten it back up then repeat to do others the same way though being sure the master cylinder is full each time before pumping the brakes, no need for two people i have always done it this way for years its very easy..
Unfortunately, you don't get to dictate which way is the only way, as there are many ways to complete the same task.
Then why you watching this video😂🫵🤔
In was thinking the same thing. If the hose is submerged in brake fluid you could pump the brakes yourself. But wouldn’t that also risk sucking old brake fluid back in while pumping?
Yes but at least nobair@@dbreezy2500
Air
Was that new break fluid in the drain bottle? Do you keep master break cylinder open/unsealed in the engine bay while doing this?
Leave it open.... but this method is not used in shops. Air can get trapped and simply won't come out. And you won't know until things get hot and your cars in the back of someone else's.
oh my god so more than 4 hours for all wheels
sorry friend but gravity bleed works but YOUR CARS line is letting air in somewhere?
Couldn't you just attach some kind of pump to the master cylinder pressurize the system and all the air would move up into the master cylinder?
El líquido usado podría utilizarse de nuevo filtrando con telas finas para quitar las impurezas. Y usar de nuevo.
Great video Thanks 👍
Do you need a tube ?
It took a hour for one wheel? So 4 hours then?
Depends on how much air is in the line. Might take 5 minutes might take 2 hours. At least it can be done by yourself
in dog years
I’ve been doing the two man method a whole bunch of air came out then som fluid and then it seamed to completely stop. Did you do this with master cylinder cap on or off? I’m going to try it
I couldn’t get it to bleed with the two man method it wouldn’t fill the line with fluid it had some fluid a bunch of bubbles then no fluid and then seamed like nothing was coming out at all?
I just use a mighty max from harbor freight.
that bleeder bottle should be higher then your wheel cylinder , crack it then slowly push your pedal 10 times ,next side ,
I've been waiting to see the sun go down. I've destroyed most my brain cells on my own over the years, but I think I lost another watching this....
I bleed the master cylinder. Hooked up my lines and nothing comes out? With our with out pumping peddle?
remove the nipple the hose attaches to. it should unscrew and there is a tiny hole that is probably clogged with rust. use a toothpick or similar to press it though then try again by pressing your peddle. Just noticed this was 2 years ago. Answered question anyway.
@ I love that! And appreciate the reply.
@ FYI. I did as suggested in your video. After about 3 tries I got all the air bleed out and my front brakes working. Thank You 🙏
What in the can u see useilu ?
couldnt air enter in the hose? its not "air tight" hose
Old fluid can get sucked back in, air can get in through the bleeder too. This method is NOT supposed to be used to bleed brakes... only to get the fluid down to the calipers... then pump.... just use a pump or two man method from the jump. Trapped air can expose itself once the system is hot and your sitting in the back of someone's car wondering wtf happened
@@michaeldelarm1630 comment of the month. I just spit my coffee out!
You seem pretty knowledgeable. A related question: if you are not going to flush fluid but are only replacing pads and rotors, when you compress the piston(s) back into the caliper, you are supposed to open the bleed valve slightly to avoid damaging the ABS, correct? And if you do that, can air enter the bleed valve requiring bleeding?
why wouldn't the air rise in the vertical lines faster than it's bleeding????
The weight of the fluid is pushing the air out. This method isn't great. You can have trapped air you won't know about until the system gets hot and your rear ending someone
because fluid is heavier than air lol, pretty simple. Not fast but if you pour water in a hose while holding one end up, its gonna run out the end thats lower.....right?? IDK what is so confusing about this lol.
I agree, that is a good question. As with water air is more buoyant than brake fluid. If you didn't have the new fluid in the output clear bottle you would see air being sucked up a clear tube while fluid was running out. In this video there is clearly air getting into the brake lines from some point in the system, not the from tube submerged but somewhere in the system. It is evident that the volume of fluid that came out was so large he had to remove some fluid from the bottle yet, air was also still being pushed. Think of a plastic straw from that time you got one that was smashed and cracked from your favorite fast food chain. When you tried to drink air was being introduced so you got some soda but also air. That is what is happening in this system. Air is coming in higher up in the lines, and also fluid. In any case this would normally work without that length of time as long as there was no air also being introduced into the system, likely from a loose line connection since he just replaced a cylinder.
A clear hose would have been better. The hose doesn't have to be submerged in break fluid.
Keeping the hose submerged makes it easier to see the air bubbles, and hence to see when they've stopped.
No and no. You need the hose in the fluid to keep air from going back in... could suck up old fluid though, could also suck air through bleeders. This method is bad because you can't get trapped air out this way, and you might not know it until the system gets hot and next thing ya know your kissing a Kia fortes trunk.
Hose needs to be submerged in fluid in order to avoid air getting back in
@@michaeldelarm1630 With the traditional method of pumping the brake pedal, the hose would need to be submerged. With gravity bleed, the fluid is constantly pushing the fluid and air out, therefore no air being sucked back in. Because the poster didn't use a clear tube he needed it to be submerged in order to watch air bubbles dissipate. I worked at a car dealership service center where this is common practice because techs would work on other vehicles while watching over the brake bleeding. You just have to make sure the master didn't run dry.
Only way air would be reintroduce up the tube is if someone hit the brake pedal
Why would you wait?? Just hit the brakes damnit . A tube and a bottle is all you need to do it by yourself
That a lot of air
Why does the air escape out the bottom wouldn't the air rise?
The reservoir is above the calipers so the fluid pushes the air out... not a good way to get air out lol use two people or a pump... if need be use a piece of wood as a clamp on the pedal after pumping... if you're by yourself
How to maybe get all air out.... people gotta stop advertising this method like it's the best. When In facts it's the worst method.... you use it to get fluid to all corners when do lines... not to get air out. Someone's gonna learn the hard way one day smh
You know that if you had used the brake pedal you would have finished in a few minutes. The amount of brake fluid you drain is way more than the system actually holds. This does not seem practical
That takes way too long and wastes too much fluid.
MANUAL BLEEDING
This is the way I do it. Takes no time at all in comparison.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small
bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations
necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence:
Right Rear Wheel
Left Rear Wheel
Right Front Wheel
Left Front Wheel
1. Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
2. If calipers were overhauled, open all caliper bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to
drip from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more before proceeding.
3. Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and insert opposite end in glass container partially filled with
brake fluid. Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid.
4. Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the
bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
the point of the video is that you DON'T HAVE a helper to press down the pedal....
Time lapse….. two days lol😂
That's way to long
$ 7 a vacuum pump,take 3 min to do this shit
Bro, you probably used about half a liter of break fluid using this method... Just saying
I am not so sure of gravity bleeding. personally i think pump the brake and open the bleeder screw. if you are letting gravity bleed the it would seem there would always be some kind of air in the cylinder because there is not pressure to push more fluid to fill the cylinder. I would trust bleeding with some one pushing the brake pedal down. i guess to each his own. but you are correct you would need a gallon of brake fluid it seems to gravity bleed.
looks to me, he needs to change the brake fluid anyway
@@kennylavay8492 Pumping the pedal can ruin your master cylinder by pushing the seals too far.
@@TheJcrandazzo I dont buy that theory it would be the same as pushing the brake to stop the vehicle. if the seals are bad to begin with yes pumping the brake pedal would by pass the seal or o-ring. the two man method was used many many years and no problems arise if the master is good in the first place.
BRO, it's "brake", not "break".
good to have someone to shoot you on your video exactly the point of your thing ...
Yeah, really easy, all you need is a full gallon of brake fluid... 🙈🙈🙈
Ridiculous method and a waste of time
Faster use a dollar sprayer and bottle or cup get all air out 3 mins less
Rookie, flex the brake hose ,to speed /things up.