Honda Accord timing belt installation tips and tension procedure (1994 - 2002)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- This is also for 1990 - 1993 except the balance shaft clip that I talk about first. This isn't a complete "how-to" or anything, but just me installing the new timing and balancing belt on my car while sharing some things I see often overlooked and talking about some problems I ran into on this particular job. I also show the proper tension procedure to finish the job up. This was done on a 1996 accord, but it's pretty much the same for all 4 cylinder models on 4th gens ( 1990 - 1993 ), 5th gens ( 1994 - 1997 ), and 6th gens ( 1998 - 2002 ).
I like how you say this isn't a complete "how to" and then you casually made the best "how to" video I've seen for a car repair haha
That note about the tensioner hold-down bolt being only temporary really saved the day for me. Was going nuts trying to find the bolt that went in that hole, thinking i must have misplaced it. Wish i could give more thumbs up.
Why doesn't any other TH-cam mechanic explain the way you do. I caught myself several times asking what did he just do and then boom you explain lol. Glad I found this video
Without a doubt, the most informative video to do a timing belt on an F series, from the beginning to end! Youre tha man bro, thanks a lot! My confidence just got boosted.
This is really the best informative and well explained timing video
My confidence's VTEC just kicked in.
lmaoooooo
I can't tell you how much confusion you've saved me at this point in time. I have a 93 accord I'm currently trying to do this on and I think they had the oil pump lined up incorrectly as well. Just like on this one. I would ask my father about all these kinds of things as he was a Honda mechanic for over 15 years in that era but he has now passed. Respect to you man! Thank you for being very thorough!
Anthony Wigren glad it helped, this is all the same on the 93 except the retaining seal clip I talk about at the beginning, that's for 94 and up
Tails G Oh yes! Noticed that too. It's crazy how many things you have to keep at top dead center. Before I had made the newbie mistake of only looking at the cam sprocket and calling it good. Lol. That's not it by a long shot as I know now. Ha ha.
One of the best timing belt videos! If you can’t do it after this put the wrench down!!!!! The 6 turns and 3 teeth! That’s not even in the haynes manual 🙏
Man this was such a help man I've been pulling my hair out after this head gasket replacement and the timing marks keep moving on me yet but you hit all the places where I was questioning at. I'm a Nissan guy but I've worked on my fair share of Hondas and the f series seriously stumped me for a while thanks for the video
Yup straight to the point with all the key points covered. You're clutch dude thanks again.
Dude sameee
Wow! A treasure of the details that were driving me crazy. Thank you!
Thanks for this video. This gave me the confidence to do this job. Definitely the most informative, well recorded, and confidence boosting video I've ever watched for any car project. I've never done a timing belt before and couldn't have done it without your video. Thanks
Greg Schaefer Awesome! Glad it helped
I say the same thing! this man is a true hero, best detailed video ever
this is one of the best Honda videos Ive seen, thank you
Actually I'm about to do that exact job on a 08 accord Today 01/26/19 and I can not begin to tell you how thankful I am to find your video. very nicely detailed and explained. Consider me subscribed
Dude, your my hero.... Finally a youtube video by someone who can explain logically and in detail the what and why for this job. Yeah, i hate finding surprises from so-called pros that i need to clean up their sloppy work. Thats why i diy. Subscribed.
About to do it for the 3rd time on my accord wagon. I do it about every 90 k miles so this was a good refresher course, thanks.
why do you not have at least 500k subs? you have a talent. Great job on this video.
Thanks for this video. I just got new TB kit. Aisin w/ Koyo bearings and Mitsuboshi belts . $160.00. Could have went cheaper. But for the next 105k miles it's peace of mind for a few dollars more.
Doing that very kit today, about $130 now. Found all the parts are considered OE! Stoked to have the Honda scooting again
Tails G, I was able to do my timing belt/water pump and accessories replacement yesterday had few setback. I found out I was off by a tooth on the camshaft sprocket, fortunately, I was able to correct it and the glorious moment when I realize I am no longer paying for another timing belt job ever again. A + for this video follow these instructions people and you can also do your timing belt/water pump it will take a while take your time, check and check the marking and follow the instruction to the teeth and you will succeed.
Dude thanks for making this informative video. I am mechanically inclined but first time doing my own timing. Watched a couple before yours and had quite a few questions that your video answered. I am about to finish, just have to connect the power steering pump . Then the moment of truth. Thanks again
Just a tip for anyone doing this job. I did this a few months ago. Of course it makes sense to replace all the parts (belts, water pump, seals, springs, tensioners) while you are in there... might as well go in just once. One part I missed and now I am kicking myself is the O-ring seal under the rear balance gear housing. Just noticed a leak in that area today. It is really easy to replace it as long as you are in there and its only a $5 part. There was oil there when I did the job but I thought it was the cam seal leaked down. I'm hoping when I go back in to do that o-ring I only need to take off the lower cover.
Loook how clean that motor is
Changed the timing and balancer belt using your video as a guide. Nailed it!!!
Pacman Nice!
Thank you for making this video. This is the first video that has explained the process perfectly and completely. I was unaware that Honda had a TSB for the 90-93 Accord models. I did the 1992 and got it right, somehow, but the 1997 Accord was off one tooth. I have another 1992 Accord that I will need to do so I say thanks twice!
Awesome video man! I'm in the middle of doing one and this really helped me know what to look for, everyone is telling me it won't run because it's an interference motor and I'm not sure so I'm gonna check everything first! Thank you!
You are amazing! Thank you for posting this. Super helpful.
Excellent Video and instruction. In the process of removing covers. Had to buy a special socket to remove crankshaft pulley bolt. The socket with extra mass worked perfectly!! Thanks again for the informative Vid and process.
Most excellent job sir..im doin my car tommorow..i pick this vidio..thank you for being destriptive and clear on what to do
Couldn't loosen tension bolt. Letting it "soak" overnight. Will try again. Great info.and video work. Thanks.
Hey I’m getting ready to do this on my 96 F Series Accord now, just taking notes and studying. I had the car since 2013 but it’s my first time doing the timing belt job.. That seal retainer clip had going for a sec till I had checked to see if it’s there lol. I got the Alternator, p/s pump out the way along with their brackets so it’s easier. Now to continue studying and buy everything I need. Even new a timing cover kit with their seals. Thanks for the heads up! Is there a part number for that clip that holds the seal? Just incase 😅
Unbelivably excellent video!! Thanks for bailing out a 'babe in the woods' mechnic that is helping a pal out with his car. Again thanks!!
The part number for the balance shaft retaining clip/bracket os 06923-P0A-306. My dealer had a difficult time locating it. $3 at the dealer but also after market available.
Honda should pay for that or give it for free.I have 2 Hondas that popped out that balancer oil seal.Luckilly It did not destroy the engine because the c e l came on and I stopped found out Oil is gone.
Well I'm glad I stumbled on your video... But I was clearly trying to find someone who removes the oil pump so I can replace mine on my 93 accord. But I like all your information on the timing belt and tention and tips. I'm planning to replace belt and tentions seals. Thanks for you video man. Now I have to get my hands dirty.
Did you manage your oil pump? Looking for same and also stumbled on video. Thanks in advance.
@@polloloco9062 nah I haven't yet man but I bought a oil pressure Guage kit so I can check my oil pressure and see if my oil light is messing with me cause I replace a new oil pressure sensor and my light still flicker... Before I changed the oil my light never came on and once I change the oil and filter my oil light comes on.
Great video. I will refer to it when i change my timing belt. Looks like the hard part for me is setting the tension on the timing belt. Thanks!!!
Doing this exact job on my accord today, this video made it happen. Thank you Btw I lost four gallons of oil in one day my balance shaft seal was completely out
My balance shaft seal also came out. Do you have a part number or a source for that retaining bracket ? Thanks in advance for your time
@@chrislevangie7604 rock auto has it in little kit
@@fizereli Thank you very much
Finally someone who knows what they're really talking about
Thumbs up.. a very helpful & good presentation
My book says to turn the motor two full turns to make sure for valve clearance if you don’t the marks want be in line.Turning the Motorola tension the timing belts is the same.This is probably the best video overall covering all things in this procedure.
yoblob34 I went according to the 1994 Honda service manual. As far as I know it's still the correct one. What book is yours? Ive never worried about valve clearance, it won't be an issue unless the belts are way off, which shouldn't be an issue if everything was done right up to that point.
Tails G
Yea the book I used is a Haynes not the best book. It said that tie motor a 2.3 vtec is a interference engine and if you have the belt on out of time it will allow the valves to come in contact with the pistons. The motor is a 2001 2.3 I'm working on. Thanks for the video.
Mine broke a belt and I should I have the head looked at in a machine shop correct? None of these vids ever say that part . Plz help
Which belt broke? Was it the timing belt or the balance shaft belt?
If it was the balance shaft belt then you're engine is fine. All you need to do is replace the belt like you normally would, but you're going to have to guess which of the 3 turns is the right turn for the front balance shaft. The best tip I can give is that when it's on the right turn it will usually sit easily lined up with that marker on top, but I haven't found that to be very reliable. And of course, replace the timing belt as well, cause if the balance shaft broke there's a decent chance the timing belt is also about to go.
If the timing belt broke, well, there's a chance there might be some problems with your valves. A lot of people will say that they always get bent up, but that's not necessarily true, sometimes people just put a new belt on there and it's fine. If it doesn't run right though or is sounding funny then you might need to take it to a shop.
Tails G the belt was good it had a blown head gasket I just replaced the belts and water pump while I had it off. I thought this would be a good time to do it. Putting it back together I found that the rear motor mount was bad.
Thanks for showing in detail all of the marks and how to line it up right. Also noticed you used a OEM Honda Belt. If you are going to go through this much work...why not use OEM parts. This is one area you don’t want to “ cheap out” on.....Excellent video.
This is a great video and saved my car. Please do Not ever take this video down I may need to do another front seal and timing belt again. Best most helpful video on YT.
Excellent camera, lighting, narration and technicals. This one is an easy 10/10.
Thanks! Hopefully it'll be helpful to someone
I totally agree. Well done, very well done.
Some people can explain clearly and some people have the correct knowledge. Its rare to find someone that has both. Too many videos of guys just wingin’ it. Kudos nicely done!!!
Just for the sake of solid info... The rear balance shaft is NOT part of the oil pump or "also an oil pump", it simply goes through the oil pump housing, the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. This applies to ALL F/H series engines.
How crucial is the oil pump shaft alignment, just did this and its louder and lacks some power
@@jeremycoffman4157 I'm not sure exactly which shaft you mean?... but there are 3 shafts coming through the oil pump: main crankshaft (EXTREMELY Crucial) and the the 2 balance shafts and tbh both are pretty crucial in terms of their alignment marks because if 1 or both are out of "time" with the rotation of the engine then they'd become counter productive and cause more vibration (noise) and possibly a loss of power. If you're really concerned but don't want to tear it all back down you can simply remove the balance shaft belt altogether, effectively disabling them until you're ready to put the work in to get them back in time. I'd argue disabling them would be far better than running the engine with them out of time. So in short; the balance shafts themselves are NOT crucial to the operation of this engine, however, running them out of time (sync, alignment, whatever you want to call it) could impact how the engine performs and will definitely cause unnecessary vibrations, at the very least. Hope this helps? GL
It's the little one at the bottom far left, we timed everything else but I dont recall doing that one, and it is louder and seems like loss of power, but shifts and idles correctly
@tdidan all is well, was the balancer shafts I was worried about not the cam and crank, but went back and fixed all that, 12,000 miles into the job, and all is well 👍
What an amazing video! Thanks.
By far the best tutorial on this topic!
After the timing belt goes on then the balance shaft belt goes on you then turn the engine three teeth on camshaft anticlockwise turning crankshaft , which tensions both belts and you then secure the bolt at 33 foot pounds or 44.74 NM , after you tighten the tensioner bolt you then rotate the engine a full rotation to check the top dead centre is still in same place , and thats the same for every single car checking that . you did it BACKWARDS , you dont have to put the pulley and the timing cover on to do that , and you need to remove the top engine mount so you can lower engine up and down.
You are right, It is also much easier to see if the marks have moved with the cover off.
Hi. Super video. The balance shaft seal retainer did they use it also in the 4th gen prelude? F20A4 engine code?
I need you to work on my 1990 Honda Accord ex sedan with the 2.2 engine. I’m in New Mexico 87532. You were perfect and very informative!
all the good comments has already been takin. too much positive feedback around here.
Honda manual says loosen adjusting nut, then tighten, then roll 3 teeth, then loosen and retighten is this correct? I think you had it loose while doing the 3 teeth which makes more sense to me anyway. I did it their way and everything is tighter, but feels like too much slack still on the tb, balancer feels great tho 🤔
Great explanation on this job. Thank you
Great video. You hit all the tricky things!
Best video on the matter. Great explanation for what to do and why to do it. 10/10
Best mech vid I have ever seen. Well done.
Great video, but that mark in the balancer, will aling every 4 times you turn the engine at tdc, top dead center, nothing wrong where the mark is now, thank you for sharing the seal problem, great advise. Cheers ~y friend
Did anyone catch how to make sure the front (bumbper side) counterbalance shaft is on its proper rotation?
Glad I watched these before puting that cover back on!
If your timing marks are off on the balance shaft, the counterweights in those shafts can give you the feel that the engine is over accelerating. I know- I’ve done that.
Thank so much for share this video man you save my life. Really easy how you explain everything.
I think im a certified honda tech now, thank you my friend
Thanks for your time and effort for creating a detailed video on this specific vehicle.🙏🏽
I have to say I’m a lot more comfortable doing a front main seal and now the timing on my sister’s car. 👍🏽
So when you refer to balance shafts and 3 turns. (At 9:45 ) in the video. Is that for both balancers??? Do they both have to turn 3 times or is it just the oil pump/balancer that has to turn 3 times in order to be timed correctly...???
At the 33min mark, you say to loosen the adjusting nut by 1 turn. Then you turn crankshaft 6 turns and get back to TDC, then immediately advance camshaft gear by 3 teeth. That doesn't make any sense. I assume you sequenced the video incorrectly, because you commented on how advancing the camshaft gear by 3 teeth noticeably tightened up the tension section of the timing belt and didn't say anything similar about the 3 whole turns of the camshaft immediately prior.
I'm guessing what you actually did is have the adjusting nut tight, then turn crankshaft 6 turns, then loosen adjusting nut 1 turn, then advance camshaft gear by 3 teeth, then tighten adjusting nut.
Great video with excellent lighting, resolution and explanations for why each step is being performed. More detailed than most of the professional mechanics churning out how-to videos. You took nearly 40 minutes to explain something Scotty Kilmer would have explained in 40 seconds, because he would probably explain the entire timing belt and water pump replacement from start to finish in 3 minutes - great for a general overview or for wrench-tertainment, but totally inadequate to actually perform the task.
So the engine is just turned over 5 to 6 turns to help the belt settle into place on the pulleys. It doesn't really seem to matter if the adjusting nut is loose or not for that. It does need to be loose though when you turn it 3 teeth. I do do it exactly like you see in the video. Since I'm gonna be turning it already for the 5 to 6 turns, I just loosen it before that, that way I can do those turns, then just keep going the extra 3 teeth before tightening it without having to get down under there and loosen it back up in between.
edit: I'm just lazy I guess, lol. Does that make more sense?
@@tailsg8594 That three teeth is too hold tension on belt while tightening nut. The nut is supposed to be tight during the 6 turns, but the manual is not clear about that, even though it IS clear that you need to loosen it before turning it three teeth. Seems they left out the part about tightening it before the 6 turns.
@@GunnyNinja Also I believe this tension procedure can be performed before installing the covers?
If anybody out there who's doing a timing belt replacement on those F Series Honda engines, If you are even 1 tooth off on that cam balance belt you most definitely will notice a difference in idle vibration! 100% you will! Line both belts up correctly!
Tails G Great job on covering this job. Super nice video. Well done bro. Thank you very much, I appreciate it.
This helped me out a lot on my 94ex
Tails G , do you remember if your timing belt tensioner spring has different sized hook ends, and if so, which end goes onto the peg mounted to the engine block? The TB tensioner spring's hook ends on my '97 are of different size, & I don't trust the previous install cuz I discovered they made some mistakes. The small end does fit over the peg, so it seemed logical to put it there, but some images that aren't very clear lead me to think I got it wrong. I'm at the point of turning the engine crank 6 times to test my TB teeth and I want to make sure before I go too far.
The hardest part of the whole thing IMO was getting the timing cover back on. I had to loosen up three mounts and move the engine over and drop the bar from the lower control arm to the radiator support. The later ones have tons of room but my 95 doesn't have room. It was horrible.
Outstanding video, just finished my 99 Accord, but when I turn on the car the engine makes a clicking noise
Nice video brotha, question for you on the rear balancer so as long as the screwdriver goes in to the hole it should be in time no matter if it only takes one turn or two turns right?? Thanks
Yeah, when your screwdriver can go in that's the spot where it's in time. Once you have that, use the mark on the end of it to get it on the exact correct tooth
The exact bolt size is 6 x 100 mm.
Dude great video. Awesome job
best vid out there to do this thanks dude keep up the good work
Hi, I noticed the valve cover is still on. Were you able to get the upper timing cover off without touching the valve cover in the beginning? Also, is it possible to remover the crank bolt with a breaker bar or torque wrench and a 19mm deep socket?Or do you need an air gun. Thank you.
Im thankful on J Series V6 engines have Automatic Tensioners you just pull the pin and it sets the Timing Belt tension.
Great video, really well done & explained except for one thing - You completely overthought the rear balance shaft. The shaft is geared vs the pulley so they're not turning at the same speed. That means you don't have to pay attention to the marks on the pulley at all - the ONLY thing you need to do is make sure the screwdriver (or bolt) goes through the hole in the shaft. Once that's good, you're in the right position no matter what position the pulley's in.
I was going crazy trying to figure out what was going on because the hole would line up at different positions vs the pulley rotation. That's why Honda never mentions to clock the pulley a certain way - ONLY check the hole. HTH ...
thanks you
Interesting.... that would explain why he thought the marks were way off yet the engine didnt vibrate... the shaft must have been in the correct position all along.
I just reread the Honda manual and you are right. They only say to get the right position on the rear balancer using a bolt or such thru the service hole. However, there are alignment marks for the front balancer on top of the shaft... just thought I'd mention that.
arclinear h
I missed this comment till just now. But I'd recommend doing it the way I do, and I will argue my case here for why - So you'll notice in the video that when I put the screwdriver in and move the sprocket, it has a decent amount of wiggle, enough to still be off a tooth. If you're using the dot on it though, then you can be perfect. So I don't understand why you wouldn't do it my way. If you decided to ignore the dot and just get it around the area where your screwdriver goes in, it might be off a tooth, and to what gain? it takes a half a second to give it another spin to be on the turn with a dot, so nothing really. The honda tool is better sized for the hole that's locking it in place so it doesn't have that much wiggle, but people watching this won't have that. So this is the method I use to make sure that it's perfect. This is already a tedious job, there's no point in half assing any part of it when it's so easy to be sure it's right.
That bottom cover is a nightmare 😲
also im guessing you advance the crankshaft 3 teeth after turning it over 6 times to get tension out? After following these steps there was slack between the cam and crank pullys and my belt was flopping around
Thanks so much for the detail VDO. Awesome! Is the tensioning procedure done last after everything is done before start the engine for a final check?
Before you redid your timing belt, did you notice any abnormal vibration because the balance shaft was off?
You def explain this shit bro can’t lie
Wow, you are amazing. Not sure I'm going to take it on myself.
What does it mean if you replace everything and you go to start the car and there's 12.5 volts from the battery but the starter doesn't crank, there is just a click?
Thank you for your very helpful vid! I just got done replacing my water pump. And without your vid, my brain will probably spew out from my ears lol. Thanks again!
Do you have a source or part number for that retaining clip on the balance shaft seal ?
thanks for the video. I tried to follow your tips. I did a headgasket replacement as well. Now my car will crank but won't start. I checked the compression and it was 120 on cylinder 1 and around 150 in cylinder 2. Any idea why the difference in compression?
so, what if they left the temp pulley bolt in and it was turned tight.?
belts are tight, but that temp bolt for the pulley is srewed tight.
You can't get it out? I've left them in before without any issues. The pulley isn't going to move again until the nut holding them down is loosened, hence that temporary bolt.
This was a blessing!
Gm I have a ? How do I prevent the top camshaft from moving while rotating my crankshaft 2 full clockwise turns
Excellent
I have a question, if the top balance shaft gets turned around without the belt on what do I do to properly get it lined up again correctly???
you are awesome for making this video. I happen to have my engine on the stand and it is my first time doing this instead of doing this in the car. Even though I have directions and a haynes repair manual, there are so many things frustrating and not clear from pictures and instructions. .. You are a life saver with this video. BTW, 95 accord ex F22B1. Previous engine died @ 200k and putting in a used engine with only 82k. Hope to get another 150k out of the car.
Good video but that is not the oil pump as you pointed out ,
That is the rear balancer shaft.
You're right, I did mention it's a balancing shaft also. For some reason I also thought it drove the oil pump but it does not
hey man great video!!! couple of questions... where did you get the springs from? and also where did you get all the 3 piece cover for the 9 dollars?
Oscar Torres I got it all from cheaperhondaparts.com I think it was. Something like that. The top cover was only around 10 bucks or something but the lower cover was more expensive, I wanna say like 30 dollars. The springs you can find there also, they're like 2 and 4 dollars. Worth the 6 bucks for the springs in my opinion
wow super fast responses too??? you are great man keep doing what you are doing!!!!
hey man how are you? one more question... so after you do the five to six turns and checked all the alignments and all. do I tighten the 14mm nut so that the cam moves 3 teeth? or move it 3 teeth and than tighten the nut??
Oscar Torres move it 3 teeth using the crankshaft, then you're ready to tighten down the 14mm bolt
Tails G ok man so I am on the last couple of steps... so I was putting the bottom cover on and the retainer you talk to at the beginning of the video doesn’t let it sit right!! I got a new one for a 1992 but it looks like that one has no notch??? Should I buy an newer year one or should I make a notch on this one? What year is your car?
At the 30:30 Mark I set everything to zero. The camshaft was lined up bottom belt was lined up 1st cylinder was at the highest..... So when I try to rotate the crankshaft one interval and looked on top of the camshaft it was not lined up to the top dead center... What am I doing wrong
What do you do if it doesn't start after putting it all together?
I have the engine on TDC according to the up mark on the camshaft with both outer notches aligned with cylinder head. however the 1 notch on the crank pulley does not align with the pointer. I have not disassembled anything yet. Any ideas as to why they don't line up. Im planning on doing the same work you did to a 01 Accord v tech 2.3 l.
Back the tensioning bolt one turn from hand tight after removing the temporary bolt?
Awesome tips !!!
Thank you!!!! Nice work, great video!!!
I’m doing this job on mine right now and have everything taken apart... but I have turned the engine over both clockwise and counterclockwise.... did I mess something up or will it be fine?
You'll be fine, the part about direction is for setting the belts.
Any links where you found the service manual you followed?
what if you did everything,
but it now is making hissing elastic sound from behind the timing cover, towards the tensioner area.
After you loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt one turn after you run it in, do you tighten it up again after you adjust the timing belt?
i got a 2001 prelude that has been whining post timing belt change. I've only driven it maybe 500 miles since then. will this go away or does something need to be loosened. i've read that it can me the balance belt is too tight? thanks
The 90-93 Accords absolutely need the balance shaft seal retainer. Why do say that they don't?
The TSB is 00-073 and I don't see anything about any models prior to 1994 being affected. I'm not saying that means there isn't an issue with them, but I'm not aware of it and Honda didn't seem concerned it was an issue with those models. If you know of a seal retaining clip that's designed for the timing belt cover of 4th gens, please link it here for those people.
@@tailsg8594 it's the same one. I have it in a 92 and a 93. The seal was very loose in the 92.
you kept referring the water pump as the oil pump??