This is an example of an excellent video; no babbling, no long introductions, no going off on tangents, no faces in the video, no lingering on non related stuff, good quick editing , correct information, efficient use of time. This is how all how to videos should be.
who’s ever car this is, very lucky to have some one this knowledgeable and cares this much to do the job the right way not the white way the first time!! great job man, i wish you were my mechanic
Nice! To tension the belt by the book after timing is set you need to turn the crank until the LH cam mark is off by 3 teeth. This is where the belt is properly tensioned. You then tighten the tensioner bolt. Next turn the cranck counterclockwise till your back to tdc and all your marks line up. Now you can tighten the tensioner arm bolt to hold timing while you do the balancer. You will have to loosen the tensioner bolt again anyway to to do the balance shaft belt because both pulleys share 1 stud. Doing this method assures there is no slack in the belt. If the belt has slack between the cam and crank that means the tensioner is experiencing an extreme amount of tension on the opposite side. This will cause premature failure of the bearing that is built into the tensioner.
@@jsstrawder i stopped the video when i got to the belt tensioning part, glad to see someone mentioned the correct way to do the job. also happy to see the content creator was receptive.
Damn videos like this are why my 250k Accord is still kicking. I've loved learning about how my car works, and I'm so glad I have this resource. Thank you for such a consice, helpful video!
Great video, great photography and great tips/professional techniques demonstrated. I've done this job before, and it is a pain to say the least. This is a great resource for anyone attempting to take on this procedure. Getting these details right will ensure your success. This is not a quick job, so allow plenty of time and replace all the wear parts, bearings, tensioners, water pump, crank, cam and valve cover seals. You don't want to do this job twice, so don't go cheap on quality parts and take your time ensuring all alignment marks are in the correct position and proper tension is applied to the belts, as he demonstrates. Thank you for making this video, very good work!!!
I have been watching this video for almost 2 years now and it has got me through alot! The way it is explained is just right for me and i have shared this video more times than i can tell. Thank you so much!😊
Excellent! As a recovering mechanic who recently bought a 2001 Accord it's nice to see someone who pays attention to CLEAN and detail. Very well done and a wonderful video too. Kudos for the high mass impact socket for crankshaft bolt removal too!
Thanks for your comment! The impact driver along with some of my other electric ratchet tools definitely makes the job go faster and easier! Thanks for your support and please subscribe for notifications of new videos.
What an excellent job. The video close up with excellent. And I have to say what an extremely lucky customer to have a mechanic to do such a good job very impressed. I just purchased a Honda with a bad water pump I will most definitely be watching this video more than once
This is probably one of the most straightforward, in-depth, and detailed tutorials I’ve seen on the subject. And you did it all without taking an hour and a half on the video. Lol! Thank you for your hard work.
@@hardlymovingpro I have a big leak. ( add 2 quarters of engine oil and when I turn on the engine it empty inmmediately). Flow come out from bottom of engine timing belt cover. Can be a seal?
Best description of Timing Belt, Water pump and Seals i've seen for this car, Out of 10 various example repair views, You are by far the best, No jokes, Straight forward, Extremely informative and accurate, In other words, Great job imo! Thank you so much, Was going to drop the car off this evening for to be repaired, Not any more, It's my job now,) Thanks again!
Perfect video for this. I followed along nearly exactly and finished up the job along with a new radiator and hoses while the cooling system was drained.
Thanks. Best video I've seen on how to replace timing belt and seals on these Honda engines. Great quality videos. Well lit. Well edited and captioned. Great work. This will make my job much easier.
@@hardlymovingpro it was still a great video with still shots that looked professional grade. That was a really nice video. Must be a good camera or good experienced cameramen
@@erahelp Thanks but he's does all my editing too. This particular video was very difficult for him to produce. All the camera work was done using a LG smart phone. The digital cameras are too big and cumbersome to get into tight spaces.
An odd thing happened during our test start. I think our test start was same as yours. Accessory belts off, valve cover resting on head, not bolted down. Harmonic balancer installed, engine covers off. Timing marks all hopefully ready to go. Engine fired right up and RPM soared upwards. I shut off right away. Tried again and same thing. RPM soared up. Since it seemed to run fine, everything was reinstalled. Engine started and ran normally. We did have the alternator off the engine. I don't know why the engine did what it did. Great video, thank you very much. It really helped. I think the worst part of the whole thing was dealing with a splash cover with ears chewed off.
When you start the car with the alternator off, the car is running off the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the car will run for around 30 minutes without the alternator.
The Best video on the internet to do this job!!! You’re a professional by every standard. You’ve explained everything and the video is right on. Most videos are not lite well and you can’t figure out what’s going on. Your tutorial is #1.
Gotta get the same thing done to my 93 Accord EX. Bought it from a guy supposedly replaced the head gasket but paid no attention to this area of the motor smh.. thankfully I have a buddy of mine willing to help out who is experienced since he has previously owned some Civics
Great camera work. Just finished same setup on sunday on 1995 honda odyssey with 300,000 miles . Debating on replacing the idlers, tensilners and aisin water pump. New dayco timing belt the rest was replaced at 138,000 miles back. Plan on keeping the van no more than 6 months to a year. Had bent valves do to snapped timing belt on hwy. Took for a 3 mile test run all seems good
Great video. Filming is perfect and so clear. Now I know why it costs so much for a mechanic to do this. I could watch this a hundred times, but my old brain could not remember all the technical details involved. Not to mention , there is a lot less room to work on a 2.3 liter in a Honda Odyssey than there is in an Accord. But this is the only video for a 2.3 liter. Great work. I'm done. No way I can do this. Tine to search for a really great Honda tech.
Sir best video thus far I've watched a few and yours is 1st place no yackidy yack I've needed to put new seals and you demonstrated how easy job can be. Then running motor verifying belt tension perfect thanks
Thank you so much sir for taking your time and helps us out . I appreciate it very much. God bless you b other and continue given you knowledge. So you can help others. God bless America
Video helped so much, some reason crank sprocket won’t go back on. Hopefully grease helps tomorrow, slid off so easily it’s hard to believe it won’t budge now
@@hardlymovingpro the lube did not help, nothing was damaged during the process. Even went back on no problem as a test earlier but now as I’m wrapping up the job the crank sprocket will just not slide on, I don’t understand why
I have this same engine,. Thanks for making this video. I have followed other videos you have made with great success. I take pictures and label everything with colored tape.
Bruh this is why I don’t work on cars I thought I was a simple bolt to replace the pulley n he just did like 1000 steps ima stick to paying hundreds for a mechanic 😂
You used a "timing mark" on the rear balancing shaft sprocket. The correct way to do this is to use the access port in the back of the block to align the shaft correctly. There is a 3:1 gear ratio on that rear balancing shaft sprocket. This is from Honda's service manual for this car. May be worth adding this info to the video desc to save someone from unbalancing the block. It's small but noticable at low idle when it vibrates everything.
Had tried to use the access port in the back to lock the balance shaft sprocket from moving to mount the belt but didn't work out for me. The balance shaft sprocket would continue to move.
@@hardlymovingpro Ouch, sounds like a bigger problem then. The two gears behind that sprocket are accessable at least, on occasion the seal behind that gear housing will leak as well. Most kits don't include that seal though unfortunately.
Where can you find the bolt that will thread into the balance shaft through the access port? Is it one of those dig through the bolt bin type of bolts or can you get a specific one somewhere
@@MacroMicro99 The bolt that opens the passage way is just a cover, you can simply take that out and use a screwdriver in there to lock the balance shaft in place.
Grato amigo por compartilhar teus conhecimentos e experiências, tuas dicas e ensinamentos muito vão me ajudar. Assistindo no Brasil em 23/08/2021. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
Nice video! I like to run the engine also before I put it back together. On this engine since nothing is really holding that balancer pulley on the crank, I temporarily put the harmonic balancer and bolt on. Don't really want that thing flying off.
Hey so i have ran into a problem after installing the water pump and getting the belt back on the waterpump leaked out the whole bottle. started up fine but is pouring out coolant would I need to redo everything again and get another water pump or is my belt too loose maybe? thanks for the video as well really helped me learn more about my car at my young age.
Great video thanks, I just do hope that you tightened the upper tensioner bolt because you didn’t show or say to tighten it, unless it’s supposed to be loose then sorry, just wondering before I try my car
Can you rotate the crankshaft freely just like you did with that top left balance shaft what I mean is rotate the crankshaft without the timing belt on or does the timing belt have to be on the crankshaft and camshaft to be turned
Thanks for the video!!! This will be helpful for an upcoming TB+WaterPump and Seal job in the near future. What did you use to clean the area?? I saw you sprayed something and then blew it with air.
@@hardlymovingpro sorry , maybe i should have asked ;; why did you place the jack under the engine? and what cause the engine to lower itself so that you had to jack it up?
I use just a little dish soap to lube the outside of the seal and grease on the inside. The Idea being the dish soap will dry out quick and the rubber from the seal will hold it in place.
Ok video with the exception of some important details. The spring for tensioner works fine. When you have the timing and balancer belt in correct position, loosen the tensioner nut and turn the crank to the left 3 teeth then tighten the nut. Also you left out a critical step in aligning your balancer sprocket.
I learned the hard way that with fixed spring tension timing belt systems to start the engine and let the belt seat in. Most of the time the belt loosens up after I start the engine. Next time I'll try your 3 cogs to the left method, start the engine and see if the belt hasn't lost it's tension. Let me know when you have a video on this service ... always looking for a better way to do a job.
@@hardlymovingpro No videos. I do appreciate people that make them. I'm all about DIY. I hardly see any 4 cyl accords with belts come into the shop anymore. They are all chains since 03. Thank goodness for VTC actuators keeping me busy. ;)
There's still late model cars with belts. Honda with their V6's and Volvo with their I5. Just did a TB / WP job a 2004 Volvo I5 2.5L Turbo. The cam sprockets are variable oil pressure controlled. Not too much out there explaining how to replace the cam seals without disturbing the cam's position relative to the crank ... had to figure it out on my own. GM's V6 timing chain(s) barely last over 150K miles before it stretches. Around 10 hrs of work to replace the chain, guides and tensioners. I still prefer doing belts to chains.
@@hardlymovingpro I mean I get that but won't they be in contact with engine oil anyway? I only really know if dielectric grease being used for preventing corrosion in the ignition system (where the spark plugs connect in), so seeing it used for that was just a little odd to me.
@@CAepicreviews Di-electric (aka plumber's grease) is another name for silicone grease. It has other properties in addition to being an electric insulator. Using a petro based grease may work in pushing in new seals but you may have difficulty getting them out (swelling) when they need to be replaced. In addition, silicone grease remain on contact surfaces longer and are more resistant to heat when compared to petro grease.
Do you know why my car could be leaking alot of oil ,when i went open the timing cover the seal in 13:17 was slipped out do you think that could be the problem for a big leak would I have to replace it or just press it back in the motor only had like 60k miles
Thanks for the great video and very informative instructions. I’ll be performing this project on my folks 98 Odyssey pretty soon. Now I’ll have some good knowledge and to purchase the special CS socket. Heard these bolts are are bear to remove with conventional tools.
Hardly Moving Productions Purchased the Leslie CS socket and worked perfectly as advertised even with only 120 psi on my air compressor. Will start the project this weekend, keep you updated
Good step by step video. The timing kit was it a genuine Honda kit? I just purchased a complete timing set from Advance Auto a (Dayco brand) should it be okay to use.
After replacing timing and balancer belt, and water pump, now it looks like a small oil leak coming from where the wires exit the lower cover. We did not replace cam or crank seals, and did not remove the crank sensor. Any guess as to where the oil is coming from? I hate to think about opening it all back up again. thanks again,
Read cases of oil leak from the balance shaft pull seal. Oil leak can be coming from the vtec solenoid gasket attached to the engine block by the firewall. Easy acess if you remove the valve cover
At 17:28 you say to losen that bolt to allow the tensioner to settle but it shows you tightening it then you tighten it again moments after? Im trying to do this job right but im just confused.
When you loosen the bolt, you're allowing the tensioner spring to pull in any excess slack via the tensioner pulley. After the slack has been removed, you re-torque the bolt before starting the engine.
The 10 mm bolt is there to allow the installation of the 2nd bearing for the balance shaft / oil pump pulley and belt. After the balance shaft belt has been installed and all slack has been removed, the 10 mm bolt can be removed. Doesn't hurt to leave it in place. It did its job in assisting in the timing belt installation by not allowing the tensioner pulley to move around.
Valve spring tension. Mount the belt first, hold in place with alligator clips, then reposition the cam after the rest of the belt is on. Afterwards, check the alignment.
Thank you to you. I replaced timing belt 2001 Accord few days ago. Your video is the best I've seen to finish my job this time. But I have a question. How can I make sure P.S pump tension? Thanks in advance!!
You shouldn’t be able to twist the belt more or less than 45 degrees. If a new belt, even tighter. Or just enough so the belt doesn’t squeal with full steering wheel deflection. Thanks for your comment and support!
Can you update the first link for the timing belt and water pump kit? It seems broken. I'm not finding anything good on Amazon myself. Looking for something that comes with the balancing belt and all the seals and gaskets too.
Updated with a vendor called "Domestic Gasket". Bought from them before and they make a good kit with the OEM Aisin water pump and Japanese brand called GMB for the bearings. Also comes with valve cover gasket and valve cover bolt gaskets.
Top Dead Center or (TDC) is when the number 1 cylinder piston is extended to the top of the engine block cylinder hole and is on its compression stroke.
This is an example of an excellent video; no babbling, no long introductions, no going off on tangents, no faces in the video, no lingering on non related stuff, good quick editing , correct information, efficient use of time. This is how all how to videos should be.
Thank you! This is exactly how my partner and I wanted to present these automotive DIY videos! No fluff and wasting your time.
who’s ever car this is, very lucky to have some one this knowledgeable and cares this much to do the job the right way not the white way the first time!! great job man, i wish you were my mechanic
Thanks and appreciate your post!
@hardlymovingpro how did you move the engine up? Where do you place the jack to do that?
@@Unknown90010 Use a floor jack with a block of wood, under the oil pan.
Nice! To tension the belt by the book after timing is set you need to turn the crank until the LH cam mark is off by 3 teeth. This is where the belt is properly tensioned. You then tighten the tensioner bolt. Next turn the cranck counterclockwise till your back to tdc and all your marks line up. Now you can tighten the tensioner arm bolt to hold timing while you do the balancer. You will have to loosen the tensioner bolt again anyway to to do the balance shaft belt because both pulleys share 1 stud. Doing this method assures there is no slack in the belt. If the belt has slack between the cam and crank that means the tensioner is experiencing an extreme amount of tension on the opposite side. This will cause premature failure of the bearing that is built into the tensioner.
Good to know.
Loved the vid but this procedure is correct and it was obvious it was too tight in the start because of the belt whine.
@@jsstrawder i stopped the video when i got to the belt tensioning part, glad to see someone mentioned the correct way to do the job. also happy to see the content creator was receptive.
When turning the crank do you need to turn it clock wise or counter clockwise to get it to the 3 teeth offset your talking about?
Any direction.
Damn videos like this are why my 250k Accord is still kicking. I've loved learning about how my car works, and I'm so glad I have this resource. Thank you for such a consice, helpful video!
Thanks, I'm glad these videos have been helpful!
Great video, great photography and great tips/professional techniques demonstrated. I've done this job before, and it is a pain to say the least. This is a great resource for anyone attempting to take on this procedure. Getting these details right will ensure your success. This is not a quick job, so allow plenty of time and replace all the wear parts, bearings, tensioners, water pump, crank, cam and valve cover seals. You don't want to do this job twice, so don't go cheap on quality parts and take your time ensuring all alignment marks are in the correct position and proper tension is applied to the belts, as he demonstrates. Thank you for making this video, very good work!!!
All good advice and thanks for sharing!
I have been watching this video for almost 2 years now and it has got me through alot! The way it is explained is just right for me and i have shared this video more times than i can tell. Thank you so much!😊
Glad it was helpful!
This guy is one of the best mechanic men i have ever seen!
Thanks!
Love it. Replacing my crank position sensor, timing belt, and the seals this weekend. Seemed daunting at first but now its looking a lot more feasible
You're right .... Take it one step at a time.
Excellent! As a recovering mechanic who recently bought a 2001 Accord it's nice to see someone who pays attention to CLEAN and detail. Very well done and a wonderful video too. Kudos for the high mass impact socket for crankshaft bolt removal too!
Thanks for your comment! The impact driver along with some of my other electric ratchet tools definitely makes the job go faster and easier! Thanks for your support and please subscribe for notifications of new videos.
@@hardlymovingpro you're very welcome! Thanks for the excellent video and subscribed. 😎👍
What an excellent job. The video close up with excellent. And I have to say what an extremely lucky customer to have a mechanic to do such a good job very impressed. I just purchased a Honda with a bad water pump I will most definitely be watching this video more than once
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your critique!
I watched this a million times before I did mine on my car. This video made this job a breeze 👍 completed the job in about 2 hours
Great news and thanks for sharing!
This is probably one of the most straightforward, in-depth, and detailed tutorials I’ve seen on the subject. And you did it all without taking an hour and a half on the video. Lol! Thank you for your hard work.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Audience, this gentleman did an excellent job on video and illustration. Well versed, detailed, and well knowledged...Thumbs up!!!!
Cameraman did a great job too!
I know. Without him there's no way the videos would come out this great.
It takes TWO to go through
@@MrKiet76 pa
@@hardlymovingpro I have a big leak. ( add 2 quarters of engine oil and when I turn on the engine it empty inmmediately). Flow come out from bottom of engine timing belt cover. Can be a seal?
I was looking for a video about a leak under my Honda accord, ended watching this, I’m gonna subscribe 💪😎 I didn’t learn how to fix the leak though 😭😂
Thanks for the sub!
I just wanted to say that this is the best damn video on this subject that I have ever seen great work thank you
Thanks! When I took of the timing belt covers I had a "holy sht" moment!
probably one of the most straight forward and to the point tutorials Ive ever seen. much thanks from back yard mechanics and shop techs alike!
Thanks and you bet!
Best description of Timing Belt, Water pump and Seals i've seen for this car, Out of 10 various example repair views, You are by far the best, No jokes, Straight forward, Extremely informative and accurate, In other words, Great job imo! Thank you so much, Was going to drop the car off this evening for to be repaired, Not any more, It's my job now,) Thanks again!
Thanks for you comments and the video critique!
Great editing, commentary, and close-ups with still frame shots.
Awesome video.
Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
THANK YOU. A competent mechanic doing the timing belt kit as most of us MUST - without a lift or a garage.
You bet!
Perfect video for this. I followed along nearly exactly and finished up the job along with a new radiator and hoses while the cooling system was drained.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Thanks. Best video I've seen on how to replace timing belt and seals on these Honda engines. Great quality videos. Well lit. Well edited and captioned. Great work. This will make my job much easier.
Thanks ... good luck with the repair!
Great video. You know you the bomb when you can do a timing belt job with one hand and the other is holding a camera
Thanks for your kind comment but my partner was holding the camera.
@@hardlymovingpro it was still a great video with still shots that looked professional grade. That was a really nice video. Must be a good camera or good experienced cameramen
@@erahelp Thanks but he's does all my editing too. This particular video was very difficult for him to produce. All the camera work was done using a LG smart phone. The digital cameras are too big and cumbersome to get into tight spaces.
Excellent video! I'm rebuilding one of these and I am way in over my head. You obviously know what you're doing. Kudos!
Thanks for your post!
Thanks a mill for this, clear and precise step by step process!
You bet!
Hands down to you. The best ever video for timing belt replacement. I subscribed.
Thanks and glad you liked it!
I have Honda Odyssey which has same engine.
I did it for the first time, and have done successfully!
Thank you and it helps so much!
Great to hear and thanks for sharing! Keep up the good work!
An odd thing happened during our test start. I think our test start was same as yours. Accessory belts off, valve cover resting on head, not bolted down. Harmonic balancer installed, engine covers off. Timing marks all hopefully ready to go. Engine fired right up and RPM soared upwards. I shut off right away. Tried again and same thing. RPM soared up. Since it seemed to run fine, everything was reinstalled. Engine started and ran normally. We did have the alternator off the engine. I don't know why the engine did what it did. Great video, thank you very much. It really helped. I think the worst part of the whole thing was dealing with a splash cover with ears chewed off.
When you start the car with the alternator off, the car is running off the battery. If the battery is fully charged, the car will run for around 30 minutes without the alternator.
Did you have the throttle cable in a bind where you moved it off of the valve cover?
No ... Why?
The Best video on the internet to do this job!!! You’re a professional by every standard. You’ve explained everything and the video is right on. Most videos are not lite well and you can’t figure out what’s going on. Your tutorial is #1.
Thanks for your comment and support!
VERY GOOD VIDEO THATS THE WAY I LIKE TO SEE PEOPLE EXPLAIN AWESOME THANKS FOR SHARING
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice! You brought the Accord back to life! Glad no valves were damaged. I heard these are interference engines.
Yes ... I was lucky the valves weren't damaged. It was just a slipped/jumped belt problem.
Gotta get the same thing done to my 93 Accord EX. Bought it from a guy supposedly replaced the head gasket but paid no attention to this area of the motor smh.. thankfully I have a buddy of mine willing to help out who is experienced since he has previously owned some Civics
Let us know how it turns out!
Great camera work. Just finished same setup on sunday on 1995 honda odyssey with 300,000 miles . Debating on replacing the idlers, tensilners and aisin water pump. New dayco timing belt the rest was replaced at 138,000 miles back. Plan on keeping the van no more than 6 months to a year. Had bent valves do to snapped timing belt on hwy. Took for a 3 mile test run all seems good
Hey ... glad things worked out for you!
Best exact demonstrate ever to information for the complex made to seemingly look simple
Thanks!
Great video. Filming is perfect and so clear. Now I know why it costs so much for a mechanic to do this. I could watch this a hundred times, but my old brain could not remember all the technical details involved. Not to mention , there is a lot less room to work on a 2.3 liter in a Honda Odyssey than there is in an Accord. But this is the only video for a 2.3 liter. Great work. I'm done. No way I can do this. Tine to search for a really great Honda tech.
Thanks for your comments!
Sir best video thus far I've watched a few and yours is 1st place no yackidy yack I've needed to put new seals and you demonstrated how easy job can be. Then running motor verifying belt tension perfect thanks
Thanks for your comment and support!
Great tutorial. Exactly what I’m dealing with. Thanks.
You bet!
This helped me replace a crankshaft sensor thank u
You're welcome!
We had to pay particular attention to how the tensioners were adjusted! Went back a few times and understood it!
Yea ... it's a little bit tricky. Don't want the belt too tight or too loose. Mostly seen previous installs where it was too loose.
Thank you so much sir for taking your time and helps us out .
I appreciate it very much.
God bless you b other and continue given you knowledge.
So you can help others.
God bless America
You are very welcome!
The details in your videos are excellent !! Blessings !!
Thanks and appreciate your post!
Thank you for this informative and very well made video. Very impressive keep up the excellent work.
Thanks, will do!
Boy, I just got a 92 accord for $400 which needs a water pump ..now I see why it was so cheap...this is an. Involved job...
But do-able with patience.
Video helped so much, some reason crank sprocket won’t go back on. Hopefully grease helps tomorrow, slid off so easily it’s hard to believe it won’t budge now
Could be your woodruff key. Remove the key, slide on the sprocket, align sprocket with key grooves then install the key.
Key isn’t the problem, it just won’t slide over for some reason. Teeth aren’t damaged, some grease should do the trick
@@hardlymovingpro the lube did not help, nothing was damaged during the process. Even went back on no problem as a test earlier but now as I’m wrapping up the job the crank sprocket will just not slide on, I don’t understand why
Try wire brushing the contact surfaces of any coorosion
@@hardlymovingpro well nothing is working, I don’t understand what happened. Appreciate your help
Most excellent vid. Even better than Erik the car guy.
Thanks ... we try to put out quality videos and not waste your time.
I have this same engine,. Thanks for making this video. I have followed other videos you have made with great success. I take pictures and label everything with colored tape.
Great post and thanks for your support!
Good work man, I like your cam seal removal tool
Makes the job go easier
Very well done frank and too the point thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
very helpful video man, thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you …I thought my motor was shot due to balance shaft belt breaking.. thank you .
You bet!
Excelente Maestro, usted es un mago
Thanks!
Excellent Excellent video! Very professional and detailed. Thank You for sharing your knowledge sir, It's very much appreciated!
Really appreciate your comment and support!
Sweet motor to work on.. thank you 🐾🐾🐾🐾😎
You bet!
Im glad my last and current car has timing chains.
Actually, I do timing chain replacements too. More time consuming and the replacement parts cost a lot more.
Hardly Moving Productions that’s cool I’ve never needed a timing chain replaced, but thanks anyway.
One of the best and thorough videos on car repair/maintenance! Obligatory Liked and Sub'd!!! 👍🔧
Thanks and glad you liked it!
@@hardlymovingpro - I really liked the 'Freeze-Frame' and explanations; Very Helpful!!
Dayum I wish I can do this job in 20 mins like this video here 🤣🤣
The wonders of video editing with 2X to 5X speed.
Thank you this is the best video for what I needed good job
Glad it helped!
Ya he visto videos del tiempo del honda motor 2.3 pero este esta exelente gracias
Thanks!
Very instructive
Thanks Hardly
No problem and thanks for the feedback.
Bruh this is why I don’t work on cars I thought I was a simple bolt to replace the pulley n he just did like 1000 steps ima stick to paying hundreds for a mechanic 😂
It is what it is.
Really isnt taht much man you just taking bolts in and out and paying attention to detail very simple
Especially with videos like this
You used a "timing mark" on the rear balancing shaft sprocket. The correct way to do this is to use the access port in the back of the block to align the shaft correctly. There is a 3:1 gear ratio on that rear balancing shaft sprocket. This is from Honda's service manual for this car. May be worth adding this info to the video desc to save someone from unbalancing the block. It's small but noticable at low idle when it vibrates everything.
Had tried to use the access port in the back to lock the balance shaft sprocket from moving to mount the belt but didn't work out for me. The balance shaft sprocket would continue to move.
@@hardlymovingpro Ouch, sounds like a bigger problem then. The two gears behind that sprocket are accessable at least, on occasion the seal behind that gear housing will leak as well. Most kits don't include that seal though unfortunately.
Where can you find the bolt that will thread into the balance shaft through the access port? Is it one of those dig through the bolt bin type of bolts or can you get a specific one somewhere
@@MacroMicro99 The bolt that opens the passage way is just a cover, you can simply take that out and use a screwdriver in there to lock the balance shaft in place.
Grato amigo por compartilhar teus conhecimentos e experiências, tuas dicas e ensinamentos muito vão me ajudar. Assistindo no Brasil em 23/08/2021. Obrigado e muito sucesso pra vc sempre..
Very good at explaining keep it up
Thanks for liking!
Nice video! I like to run the engine also before I put it back together. On this engine since nothing is really holding that balancer pulley on the crank, I temporarily put the harmonic balancer and bolt on. Don't really want that thing flying off.
Right on!
Thanks alot for sharing this important information
Glad it helped!
Muy bien explicado tu vídeo saludos
Dude, I could learn a lot from you.
Thanks ... you can learn something new with every video!
Good 👍job . I might have 2 do this.
Thanks!
Hey so i have ran into a problem after installing the water pump and getting the belt back on the waterpump leaked out the whole bottle. started up fine but is pouring out coolant would I need to redo everything again and get another water pump or is my belt too loose maybe? thanks for the video as well really helped me learn more about my car at my young age.
Afraid you'll have to repeat to job to replace the water pump.
Great video thanks, I just do hope that you tightened the upper tensioner bolt because you didn’t show or say to tighten it, unless it’s supposed to be loose then sorry, just wondering before I try my car
Then tensioner bolt should be tighten.
Can you rotate the crankshaft freely just like you did with that top left balance shaft what I mean is rotate the crankshaft without the timing belt on or does the timing belt have to be on the crankshaft and camshaft to be turned
Never tried and don't think so if the engine is interference (meaning with any valves being open, one of the pistons will push against it).
Hi, I would like to know if you really have to raise the valve cover to take off the top timing cover. thank you.
Yes. The valve cover has a lip that rolls over the upper timing belt cover.
Thanks for the video!!! This will be helpful for an upcoming TB+WaterPump and Seal job in the near future. What did you use to clean the area?? I saw you sprayed something and then blew it with air.
I used brake clean in a aerosol can to dissolve oil and grease then blow it off with compressed air. A lot of repair shops do this.
Question , did the engine lower dude to removing the motor mount ?
don't understand your question?
@@hardlymovingpro sorry , maybe i should have asked ;; why did you place the jack under the engine? and what cause the engine to lower itself so that you had to jack it up?
Nice! One question...it does not seem right to be able to hand install the oil seals. I would think they would leak. how is it they dont?
For whatever it's worth, it wasn't in that tight to begin with when I removed the old one.
I use just a little dish soap to lube the outside of the seal and grease on the inside. The Idea being the dish soap will dry out quick and the rubber from the seal will hold it in place.
Whatever works for you.
Ok video with the exception of some important details. The spring for tensioner works fine. When you have the timing and balancer belt in correct position, loosen the tensioner nut and turn the crank to the left 3 teeth then tighten the nut. Also you left out a critical step in aligning your balancer sprocket.
I learned the hard way that with fixed spring tension timing belt systems to start the engine and let the belt seat in. Most of the time the belt loosens up after I start the engine. Next time I'll try your 3 cogs to the left method, start the engine and see if the belt hasn't lost it's tension. Let me know when you have a video on this service ... always looking for a better way to do a job.
@@hardlymovingpro No videos. I do appreciate people that make them. I'm all about DIY. I hardly see any 4 cyl accords with belts come into the shop anymore. They are all chains since 03. Thank goodness for VTC actuators keeping me busy. ;)
There's still late model cars with belts. Honda with their V6's and Volvo with their I5. Just did a TB / WP job a 2004 Volvo I5 2.5L Turbo. The cam sprockets are variable oil pressure controlled. Not too much out there explaining how to replace the cam seals without disturbing the cam's position relative to the crank ... had to figure it out on my own. GM's V6 timing chain(s) barely last over 150K miles before it stretches. Around 10 hrs of work to replace the chain, guides and tensioners. I still prefer doing belts to chains.
Nice video. Only question I have is why you had used dielectric grease to lubricate the seals as you put them in rather than engine oil.
Petroleum based lubricants can cause rubber components to swell . Silicone (dielectric) lubes on rubber will not swell.
@@hardlymovingpro I mean I get that but won't they be in contact with engine oil anyway? I only really know if dielectric grease being used for preventing corrosion in the ignition system (where the spark plugs connect in), so seeing it used for that was just a little odd to me.
@@CAepicreviews Di-electric (aka plumber's grease) is another name for silicone grease. It has other properties in addition to being an electric insulator. Using a petro based grease may work in pushing in new seals but you may have difficulty getting them out (swelling) when they need to be replaced. In addition, silicone grease remain on contact surfaces longer and are more resistant to heat when compared to petro grease.
You are one of a kind your videos always give great details. With all of your knowledge you just need Jesus and you should be fine.
Thanks for your comment and appreciate your support!
That 10mm tensioner bolt, for the timing belt tensioner pulley.. You left it there.. loose like that? It wont come off?
Threadlock?
It won't come off.
My props to u you earned a subscriber
Thanks for your support!
My groove on the counter balance keeps halfway lining up in front or behind where its supposed to be which way should i go with?
Don't think it really matters that much.
Do you know why my car could be leaking alot of oil ,when i went open the timing cover the seal in 13:17 was slipped out do you think that could be the problem for a big leak would I have to replace it or just press it back in the motor only had like 60k miles
Yes ... Could be oil leak source. I'd replace the seal.
@@hardlymovingpro oh ok thank you do you know any other potential seals that might be related to the oil leak
Balance shaft, oil pump, camshaft and crankshaft seals
I accidentally for got to remember to write on the pulleys do you think I can still lign them up
Great work thank you very much
No problem!
I loved it, also I did too the distributor o ring, how much should I charge for doing it. Thank you Sr.
(6 hours labor x hourly labor rate) + parts cost
@@hardlymovingpro I really appreciated your time an knowledge once a gain thanks you Sr.
Thanks for the great video and very informative instructions. I’ll be performing this project on my folks 98 Odyssey pretty soon. Now I’ll have some good knowledge and to purchase the special CS socket. Heard these bolts are are bear to remove with conventional tools.
Yes definitely the high mass impact socket will avoid a lot of frustration. Let me know how the job goes.
Hardly Moving Productions Purchased the Leslie CS socket and worked perfectly as advertised even with only 120 psi on my air compressor. Will start the project this weekend, keep you updated
Sounds good ... good luck!
Awesome job
Glad you liked it and thanks for your post!
Good step by step video. The timing kit was it a genuine Honda kit? I just purchased a complete timing set from Advance Auto a (Dayco brand) should it be okay to use.
Can't go wrong with Dayco's kit. Good quality.
@hardlymovingpro thanks for messaging me back. Dayco is what I'll use.
@copperhead5216 you bet!
So I have a 2000 accord , there is oil leaking from the bottom part of the timing cover , could it be pulley seal?
Could be the crankshaft output shaft seal.
After replacing timing and balancer belt, and water pump, now it looks like a small oil leak coming from where the wires exit the lower cover. We did not replace cam or crank seals, and did not remove the crank sensor. Any guess as to where the oil is coming from? I hate to think about opening it all back up again. thanks again,
Read cases of oil leak from the balance shaft pull seal. Oil leak can be coming from the vtec solenoid gasket attached to the engine block by the firewall. Easy acess if you remove the valve cover
At 17:28 you say to losen that bolt to allow the tensioner to settle but it shows you tightening it then you tighten it again moments after? Im trying to do this job right but im just confused.
Also did you remove the 10mm? Did you ever tighten it if not?
When you loosen the bolt, you're allowing the tensioner spring to pull in any excess slack via the tensioner pulley. After the slack has been removed, you re-torque the bolt before starting the engine.
The 10 mm bolt is there to allow the installation of the 2nd bearing for the balance shaft / oil pump pulley and belt. After the balance shaft belt has been installed and all slack has been removed, the 10 mm bolt can be removed. Doesn't hurt to leave it in place. It did its job in assisting in the timing belt installation by not allowing the tensioner pulley to move around.
Did mine today. I was trying to find out the most accurate info as doing timing on your only car is nerve wracking
@@MacroMicro99 yup. First time I took off the tb covers i was like "what the F?".
So I got a question why does my cam move overtime I try to do the left tooth trick
Valve spring tension. Mount the belt first, hold in place with alligator clips, then reposition the cam after the rest of the belt is on. Afterwards, check the alignment.
Do you have to remove valve cover to change the water pump?
Yes and it's basically a time belt replacement job since the pump is driven by the belt.
Good Video, Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Good job my friend
Thanks for the visit!
Thanks.
So what was the noise. How you find out was wrong?
Belt slapping against the belt cover.
What deep socket size and lenght (it looked longer then standard deep socket) did you use to remove stud bolt for engine mount?
All standard length for 1/2" or 3/8" socket types.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you
What if the arrow doesnt go up on the top pully, how do you turn the timing
The keyslot on mine is about 45 degrees away from vertical
And my key on the bottom pulley is at a 45
Thank you to you. I replaced timing belt 2001 Accord few days ago. Your video is the best I've seen to finish my job this time. But I have a question.
How can I make sure P.S pump tension?
Thanks in advance!!
You shouldn’t be able to twist the belt more or less than 45 degrees. If a new belt, even tighter. Or just enough so the belt doesn’t squeal with full steering wheel deflection. Thanks for your comment and support!
Can you update the first link for the timing belt and water pump kit? It seems broken. I'm not finding anything good on Amazon myself. Looking for something that comes with the balancing belt and all the seals and gaskets too.
Updated with a vendor called "Domestic Gasket". Bought from them before and they make a good kit with the OEM Aisin water pump and Japanese brand called GMB for the bearings. Also comes with valve cover gasket and valve cover bolt gaskets.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you so much! Using all the partner links.
My crank sprocket is stuck with no help from penetrating sealer. Can a puller remove help to remove it for a crankshaft seal replacement?
Yes. A puller tool will work.
@@hardlymovingpro just any pulley? Could it be safe up use a pry bar?
@@mehulpatel007ify maybe a small one
@@hardlymovingpro thanks. I'll let you know
@@hardlymovingpro so do you happen to have link to a puller tool that will fit and work?
Thought the beginning you kept saying dead center when referring to the camshaft and the top engine, can you elaborate on that?
Top Dead Center or (TDC) is when the number 1 cylinder piston is extended to the top of the engine block cylinder hole and is on its compression stroke.