The 3rd Rail C&O Allegheny Project Pt. 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- A long sought after Allegheny joins my roster.
0:00 Intro run montage
2:20 On-layout lookover and project planning
7:58 Movable reverse gear demo
9:08 Fireman side lookover
11:14 Crankpin issues
12:29 In the shop and first look underneath
13:55 Chuff cams/switches
16:13 Mystery parts
17:14 Disassembly begins
21:07 Running gear and wiring checkout
23:02 Boiler and running gear separation/boiler wiring
24:18 Front and rear engine separation
24:38 Rear engine disassembly
25:30 Rear driver removal
26:16 Rear crankpin correction
26:42 Driver spring seats
27:07 Corrected crankpin test and reverse gear adjustment
29:09 Front engine work
30:30 Front roller fix
32:05 Traction tire replacement trick!
34:07 Rewiring chassis and boiler
41:54 Reassembled boiler and chassis - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hey, alright. My favorite youtube model railroader uploading a video about my favorite locomotive. I'm a happy guy right now.
You gained a subscriber in me, but your level of knowledge and detail is MILLIONS of miles past what I would ever have time to learn, but I respect it.
0:46
The class A on the side: HEY, YOU STOLE MY HOOTER WHISTLE!
To me, the C&O hooter is usually far more ghostly and haunting in sound than the N&W one. It sends shivers up my spine hearing it.
Great video Norm that's an awesome Locomotive!!
Norm: I'll take this Engine apart and fix the Drivers!!
Me: I'll take this Engine apart
and it will never run again!!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for bringing us along with you on the Allegheny refurbish project Norm. Nicely done and looking forward to part two!
I never gave it much thought when using a pick to stretch a new tire on to the driver, just how much Im stretching it out. Thats an interesting approach Norm.
Norm common man! I knew when I saw the length of this video and a part 2 this one wouldn't be for the faint of heart. These types of episodes from you are always over my head but I watch them anyways because I'm always wowed by the end product. Your skills are of the highest caliber. Thanks for sharing.
I hear ya! Keep on watching his presentations, you pick up little at a time. Sort of like what Isaiah says in the Old Testament - "Line upon line, precept upon precept. Here a little, there a little." It's too complicated to take in all at once, especially with a monster like a brass Allegheny.
3rd Rail did offer the Allegheny twice back between 2000 and 2006. The early one was a model of the lower numbers (before 1645) and none of them had the overfire jets on the sides of the firebox whereas in 2006, they offered locomotives with higher numbers (post 1645) and these locomotives did have the overfire jets. None of the Virginian Blue Ridges had overfire jets. In 2006, when Lionel first offered their JLC Allegheny, they boasted about it being prototypically correct, and it was. But later, when they re-issued it as a Legacy model around 2016, they neglected to make it prototypical as before by offering all of them in numbers between 1601-1608. Of course none of these in real life had these overfire jets. Not to be a rivet counter, but when you make a high-end scale (like) model at such prices, you'd better make sure you don't get careless in attention to detail. I would like to see this new 3rd Rail Allegheny coming out. Hefty price though of $4,795.00. OUCH.
I had the JLC but sold it a few years ago.
Looks awesome Norm! Love the Allegheny 😊
Quality’s a bit low as I’m typing this but damn that’s a nice grab there! Love the whistle for it as well.
Video compression on TH-cam is low for the first few hours after upload. The downside to watching something as soon as it's posted. Come back and watch it later, there will be a higher resolution
I watched the whole video well knowing I’ll never attempt something this in depth with a steamer 😂, nonetheless a very well instructive video on how to olif I ever got into the hobby that deep like you Norm!
You are so lucky to have this steam locomotive brother ❤❤❤❤
Always a great quality video from Norm. I love how you make your engines better than new. Excellent rewiring work there.
Great video, as always. Did you, by chance, pre-order one of the new Legacy C&O F19 Pacific's and C&O H7 Mallet?
Not too interested in the F19. I wouldn’t mind an H7 but won’t be ordering the new one. The first JLC one is pretty nice.
@@normstrains I have a JLC one. Definitely recommend buying one if you can find one at a reasonable price. The whistle alone is worth buying one.
The newest release should be interesting though since it’s the first time they’ve offered the C&O version with the rectangular tender (which the real engines did have at one point while on the C&O)
@railfanjackson4531 , when the H7's were first delivered to the C&O, they originally came equipped with the large box style tenders as delivered. The Vanderbilt style tenders were added later on several of them. The rest kept their original box tenders. All of the one's leased to the UP had that type of tender. I pre-ordered both the C&O and UP box tender versions from the new book. Looking forward to them.
Wow! Absolutely incredible work. More patience and diligence than I possess at this juncture in my life. It makes me glad that I'm a post-war/MPC-era guy, for sure. All of the new stuff is cool and it's amazing with all of the things that they do. Working on post-war locomotives is pretty easy and straight forward, so seeing what O gauge guys, like you and Sid do, is just exceptional. I have one MTH engine, a Rail King Southern Ps-4 Pacific. I noticed that one of the traction tires popped off, while running my AMT Southern Crescent cars. It came with two spares. The first one broke while I was trying to put it on. For the second one, I used a very small flat head screwdriver to pull it around, while holding the other part down with my thumb, so it wouldn't pull off. I can't imagine changing numerous tires on all of your modern locomotives. Thank goodness for MagneTraction. Either way, your layout is just incredible and watching videos of it in operation is always a pleasure. An excellent video, as always and I'm looking forward to Part 2.
Just yesterday, I thought, "I hope Norm releases a video soon." And now here we are, lol
love the allegheny my O scale model of it is the Lionel 6-28011 C&O Allegheny #1601 original from 1999
It is a great idea using plastic while putting on traction tires. That's one trick I'll use if needed, thanks 😊 !
Excellent! 👍👍
Beautiful engine- I always enjoy your videos, Norm!
Norm’s back, nice long video, I did catch up
Completely and look forward to watching every minute of another masterpiece!
I just finished enhancing my 3rd Rail Allegheny by keeping the original TMCC because it has the same whistle as the Legacy model, just no quilling feature. However, I used a 1/32" drill bit and bored out the 12 tiny holes in the firebox grates in the cab and added a flickering fire kit set of LED's. I wired it into the smoke unit so when you turn the smoke unit off by remote, the firebox LEDs go out as well but when you turn the smoke unit off by the switch under the cab, the LED fire lights will stay on unless you turn them off by the remote. I also added an LED headlight and an LED backup light which I toned down by dipping them lightly in some Tamiya orange paint to give those lights an older bulb look to them. I also replaced the bulbs in the number boards with chip LEDs. I also wired the cab light, headlight, marker lights and the number board lights through to the old TMCC board in the tender (something that 3rd Rail did not do) and now, I can turn all the lights on and off with AUX2, only the firebox lights operate separately. If I ever remove the original TMCC for ERR, the lights are already prepped. One thing I don't know how to do is keep my TMCC whistle soundboard because the whistle is accurate and not generic and wire it into and ERR setup. I also kept the Train America smoke unit by enhancing it with a bored out air intake, a new heater and new heavier wicking so it's like new. I operated it for a couple of minutes then turned the unit off by way of the switch (so I can still enjoy my flickering firebox.) The linkage you are talking about utilizes friction down on the axles, mine stopped working a while back and while I was in it, I didn't want to go further into the model so I left them alone for now. I made a brass shield to place underneath the flywheel to keep all the wires away from the wheel as the tac tape was showing wear. I finished it out by adding the Atlas #7038 scale sized electro-coupler on the rear which works beautifully with TMCC and ERR and even DCS. It was wild to come to my computer and come across your new post here concerning your Allegheny addition. Even though these models are '3-rail', I do wish 3rd Rail would build them with scale flanges. An Allegheny with all flanged wheels would be able to take 072 diameter curves quite easily, a Big Boy might need to go up to an 080 diameter. You are right about taking a 3rd Rail locomotive apart, you have to be patient and not force things, otherwise, you'll be soldering pieces back on. The articulated locos are the biggest challenge, the rigid frame locomotives are not so bad once you know where the mounting screws are located. I'll be following your progress because these videos are fascinating.
I think those drag levers may require periodic adjustment. They tend to ‘wear in’ to the point where it can’t actuate the reverse linkage after a while. Maybe some type of magnetic contraption would be more reliable?
@@normstrains Yes, mine are loose as well. Now that mine is back together again, I may remove the bottom plates and take a look at them and make some adjustments. I will be following your upgrade carefully to see what you do when you replace the old TMCC with ERR. I would have done it by now but I don't want to lose the original whistle sounds, BTW, they are the same as the Legacy Allegheny, just no quilling feature.
@@asdfdsa45 I show the ERR install in the next vid. I was able to keep the mostly correct sounds (they are pretty good!) using a powered RS motherboard. Keeping those links adjusted might be tough, they seem to want to ‘wear in’. Might be good to open up the access hole for them and adjust them occasionally on a trestle. Dang pickup rollers get in the way though! 😠
@@normstrains Thank you Norm for this response. I will watch and study how you do that with the ERR in Part 2 when it's out. A straight ERR install is easy enough but combining it with earlier electronics - something I've never done. Anyways, lots of respect on what you do with these models. (BTW, I can take the rear drivers from each engine and turn them around so that the cranks are functioning correctly. It seems the factory simply got them backwards. Until your Part 1 video, I would have never paid attention to that (I don't think!).
Listen to the beautiful Steam Locomotive, love it
That is a beautiful model.
Amazing skills!💯😎
Norm - where / how did you learn all these tricks of the trade? Work at Lionel in the past? You’re simply amazing.
1:39 Traction tire is making a break for it!
Good 👁️!
This and an H7 are the two locos I really wish I had. And I wish I had a loop to run them on.
Lionel is the only company that made the H&, either C&O or Union Pacific. I don't believe 3rd Rail ever built it but that's okay because Lionel's model is loaded with detail. The JLC model comes with only 2-chuffs per rotation. The Legacy model improved that issue and the whistle is more prototypical. That said, the JLC whistle has a haunting characteristic all it's own, sort of like Lionel's B&O EM1 from 2000, one of the most beautiful whistles I've ever heard even though it is not prototypical.
Amazing knowledge, are you by chance a millwright or an engineer of some sort? Anyways awesome video
Thanks! I am a long time (too long!) field service engineer in the mechanical testing world. That means I get to be good enough to be dangerous at all sorts of nonsense.
@@normstrains thats badass!! Great channel
It would be cool if we could unload and load the trucks
Way above my pay grade......I'm struggling with a brass Hiawatha rebuild!!!! Thx
Is the eccentric always kicked forward in that position with the rods bottomed out on all engines articulated and non articulated?
Yes as far as I know. I think the angle is roughly 13 degrees to put the eccentric rod into constant motion.
I was just wondering if there had been any recent uploads from you
Just been busy lately with work. The better weather keeps me out of the basement too!
Hey Norms Trains, i have a 3rd Rail ATSF 2-10-4 and its having the same issues that yours was having. Is it possible to send it over and the same modifications done to it like yours is?
I would recommend contacting Royz Trains in MI. All you really need is ERR Cruise M but good grief their prices are getting pretty high now. The sounds I used are no longer available from Lionel. 😞
@@normstrains the thing with mine is that it's having the same thing with the drive belt and the drivers being sprung which makes it jump the track.
Are more videos coming mr norm?
I am hoping to finish the second part tonight.
I’m so jealous
Norm!
👋