How to Cut Arrows | Arrow Building Series | Cutting and Prepping Arrow Shafts for Archery
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
- If you have never cut arrow shafts before, it may seem daunting to cut your first set of arrows after spending your hard earned dollars on new arrow shafts. I show you the best way to cut your arrows for more accurate, consistent arrow groups.
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Another great video. Many thanks.....When measuring arrow length to cut remember to allow for the distance from inside nock groove to end of nock because obviously it's variable and it's the end of the nock you have against the recess on the cutter
Yup..... very important.
Even wood and bamboo shaft should be cut with an abrasive disc. Otherwise you're splitting the fibres if you use a hacksaw.
Tool demo begins at 4:35
You can also spray them with soapwater 😉 so the carbon falls to the grund
the saw link is really the Weston arrow saw blade. FYI
A diamond blade cutter will give you a way cleaner cut instead of a burr blade
Jake, I have a question ❓ To find the correct length for your setup, Do you leave say 2 inches or whatever length and cut 1/4 inch off at a time to find the proper arrow length for your bow and setup of how the arrow flies????? I hope you understand what the hell I'm trying to ask? Better stated, how does one go about tuning there setup to there bow?
Hi Jake, i'm from indonesia, i love to watch your video so much,. i want to ask u. when we cut the arrow, will the spine change? if it changed, is there any min. length for decrease the spine until 100? thanks alot..
Jake, you should move your own 2 books to the front of the target butt to your right, so we can see it during all the videos (never too much advertising ;-) ... :-)
I've been looking around for information about stabilizers. In particular their lengths. I was wondering how the length of stabilizers affects the aiming pattern and mostly the length of the side rods on the v-bar. I'm currently shooting 4" extender, 30" long rod, 12" side rods with a 40 degree flat v-bar. But I'm planning to get an adjustable v-bar and getting a 5" extension. I wanted to know if I should get 15" side rods with a down angle and less weight to get a similar feeling as the 12" side rods. Thanks!
I use a Dremel tool, with a cutoff disc, fixed to a small board and a jig to hold the arrow so it can be rotated.
Hi Jake,
many thanks for your work! Another great how-to-video with a lot of tips and information.
But there is a thing, I highly recommend:
Don't touch the fresh cut side with unprotected fingers. You could hurt yourself with the little sharp chips of aluminium or you could get carbon fiber under your skin.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Jake.
Will it cut?
Carbon dust, don't breath this.
great video Jake. This was a real mystery to me.
Thanks for this great lesson maybe this chapter be together with the other you share about cuting arrows
A heat gun and glue stick works well too. For glueing in your arrow points
When cutting, do you rotate the arrow into the blade (so that the arrow surface and blade surface move in opposite directions)?
Not important as the blade is rotating at 8000 rpm and by hand maybe 100 rpm.
Question about the use of the copper wire brush to clean the inside of the carbon arrow. Why would you use that over the nylon cleaning brush from the gun cleaning kit?
As a note, I will never run a wire brush down any of my steel firearm barrels due to the possibility of scratching the barrels (not so critical on the 9mm and non-PRS rifles, but for my 6.5 Creedmoor, I will only use a cloth snake and carbon dissolver, along with a barrel polish). I can guarantee some of the dust you are seeing is material that you removed with the wire brush.
Also, please do not use acetone on carbon. Mind you, you are not soaking it, but acetone will break down the epoxy resins. It is much safer to use isopropyl alcohol. Acetone also leaves a residue, whereas alcohol does not. The acetone residue will interfere with the chemical bond as well.
In addition to cleaning the shaft, the brass brush will give a profile for the epoxy to bite to as well. (same reason why you sand a surface before painting it)
As far as the acetone, I have done a test and soaked an entire arrow in acetone for a week straight and the arrow did not change properties, the stiffness, weight etc were the same before and after and the arrow was as strong as the others I hadn't soaked. I thought that was a valid point and decided to test on my own one day.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery
Good to know. I guess it depends which epoxy they use on the arrows. Probably a lot higher quality stuff than I use.
If you soaked it for a week, I would have expected delamination. Based on what I have seen in your videos, I should have known you would be that thorough.
I clean my surface with acetone to soften it, then with alcohol, for doing epoxy repairs.
I was also not thinking that your intentions was to scuff the inside of the arrow, but to only clean out the dust from cutting it.
Curious, the inside of the shaft is where the compression material is and not the mold surface, so I would think it would have enough imperfections unless they are using an extremely smooth release film. I have no idea how they manufacturer the arrow shafts though (if you can hook me up with a tour, I would gladly join you ;-)).
Have you tried to use the hot melt with only cleaning out the dust? I am curious if there is enough surface bite.