Nice! Wasn’t sure about my arrows now for my draw. I to a 28inch draw and 26 3/4 arrow. I asked for 27 inch arrows and they robbed me a 1/4 inch. My QAD is perfect though got exactly 1.5 inches at full draw in front of the rest no points screwed in and broadhead slides back without any hazards and sits just outside the riser. Me and brother gonna make our own arrow cutter now and cut from both ends. Hard to find that G5 squaring tool now. Hard to find but it’s the only one I want or the newer G5 arrow squaring tool.
New to the archery world. Was thinking about making my own. I do have a couple aluminum arrows & some arrows that im not sure what they are made of. They are full length so figured they would be perfect to practice on. Are the saw blades only for Carbon or can you cut other material with it?
I’ve modified my decut to take 4” 5/8 arbor blades that you can find at any hardware store. The original 3.5” 5/8 arbor blades for the decut were hard to find, expensive and fragile. Now I can buy a new higher quality blade at any hardware store for $4-$5.
I love and using Victory Arrows exclusively (VAP V1's) as I'm a barebow shoot. They are great, and I even compete with them. Its a bit weird that he is your Q.C Manager and he doesn't know that contrary to popular belief, all arrows are cut from the front, even barrelled arrows. The one exception is the Easton Triumphs. Cutting arrows from the rear can affect the spine on some models (as they are tapered) and you will definitely lose the honed factory edge for precise mating of nock pin adapters and nocks if they are trimmed from the rear. You can't just willy nilly go and chop pieces off each end.
I'm pretty new to all this but have been doing a lot of researching and youtube watching as I intend to build my own arrows / bolts. You cut with the nock reinserted (if you've cut some of the tail end off) but I've watched other videos that say you shouldn't have the nock inserted because the nock itself might cause a bad cut due to the shape not being flat and I can see what they are saying because you are spinning the shaft not holding it still so if the nock is shaped at the back, it could potentially cause that shape at the cut end.
Thanks for the Heads up on cutting a bare shaft on a Victory. 👊👊
Thanks for another Tech video. I think when building arrows at home this is the hardest part, getting them cut properly.
Making sure you don't get your glue clogged was hard for me and I've done 2 dozen or so now!
Nice! Wasn’t sure about my arrows now for my draw. I to a 28inch draw and 26 3/4 arrow. I asked for 27 inch arrows and they robbed me a 1/4 inch. My QAD is perfect though got exactly 1.5 inches at full draw in front of the rest no points screwed in and broadhead slides back without any hazards and sits just outside the riser. Me and brother gonna make our own arrow cutter now and cut from both ends. Hard to find that G5 squaring tool now. Hard to find but it’s the only one I want or the newer G5 arrow squaring tool.
Thank you for the video
New to the archery world. Was thinking about making my own. I do have a couple aluminum arrows & some arrows that im not sure what they are made of. They are full length so figured they would be perfect to practice on. Are the saw blades only for Carbon or can you cut other material with it?
Thank you for the help!!
Where do you get the replacement blades for your de cut arrow cutter?
I’ve modified my decut to take 4” 5/8 arbor blades that you can find at any hardware store. The original 3.5” 5/8 arbor blades for the decut were hard to find, expensive and fragile.
Now I can buy a new higher quality blade at any hardware store for $4-$5.
What type of saw is this?
After cutting the back of the arrow should you square it before installing the nock?
Is it necessary to remove the ice coating for applying wraps?
Nice video! what's the name of the Arrow Squaring tool ? Thanks for your time !!
That was a G5 arrow squaring tool.
I love and using Victory Arrows exclusively (VAP V1's) as I'm a barebow shoot. They are great, and I even compete with them.
Its a bit weird that he is your Q.C Manager and he doesn't know that contrary to popular belief, all arrows are cut from the front, even barrelled arrows. The one exception is the Easton Triumphs. Cutting arrows from the rear can affect the spine on some models (as they are tapered) and you will definitely lose the honed factory edge for precise mating of nock pin adapters and nocks if they are trimmed from the rear. You can't just willy nilly go and chop pieces off each end.
I'm pretty new to all this but have been doing a lot of researching and youtube watching as I intend to build my own arrows / bolts. You cut with the nock reinserted (if you've cut some of the tail end off) but I've watched other videos that say you shouldn't have the nock inserted because the nock itself might cause a bad cut due to the shape not being flat and I can see what they are saying because you are spinning the shaft not holding it still so if the nock is shaped at the back, it could potentially cause that shape at the cut end.
Do you have the dimensions of that arrow saw?