Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u Wiring harness tape that I used: amzn.to/2BmcgUO But connectors: amzn.to/2IXKNgg More butt connectors: amzn.to/2nXjQlC Crimping pliers: amzn.to/2oFDe7a Why not solder instead? : amzn.to/32qoW94
I've done my fair share of wiring harnesses and I can tell you that adding vinyl non-stick tape to the harness, before you add the Tesa tape, does wonders for making sure the harness doesn't turn into a sticky mess after some heat cycles. I go Vinyl Tape > Kapton Tape > Tesa Tape. I use the Kapton Tape on areas that will see higher heat ranges as it's supposed to keep heat at bay. I wrap the harness in TechFlex sleeving and use marine grade heat shrink to keep it tight. Hmmm, I may do a video on this 🤔
@@Chache1527 For some reason I can't post a link in a reply, odd. But if you search for Dry Vinyl Tape or Non-Stick Vinyl Tape you'll get some hits! The Kapton Tape is pretty straight forward, search for that and you'll have a ton of options!
Another way in wrapping the harness with electrical tape is to wrap the tape sticky side out and then go back over it sticky side down. It adheres well to it self and it doesn't make the wires sticky.
Great video. I’ve got to upload a video one day on making a harness from scratch. I like rebuilding my engines in-house for my company, and when I do they got back “deleted” (diesels). What I do is buy all new plugs for what sensors are left on the engine, put them all in place, and run wiring from each sensor back to the ECM. I use fibreglass braided sheathing thats dipped in acrylic, I then place a 1 inch piece of shrinkable tubing half over the sheath and half over the wiring going into the plug. I use varying sizes of sheath as the harness grows in size. The great thing about the fibreglass braiding is it’ll take up to 500 degrees without melting (way higher than the wire will take). The result is a million mile harness, thats neat and free of extra plugs from sensors that are no longer in use.
actually, crimping connections are way better and stronger than soldering connections if they are done properly, crimping connection is not based on the friction between the cable and the cable lug as most peoples believe, crimping connection is based οn the exchange of atoms between the copper cable and the cable lug and the end result looks like this www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Ftemcoindustrial.com%2Fmedia%2Fstatic%2Fproduct_guides%2Ftools%2Fcompression_crimp_xsection.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.reddit.com%2Fr%2FCarAV%2Fcomments%2F748rww%2Fpreferred_method_for_joining_4_gauge_terminals_to%2F&tbnid=g5JrUQ100eU1UM&vet=10CBkQxiAoA2oXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc..i&docid=aRZDYXIVRCAdQM&w=438&h=269&itg=1&q=crimping%20connection%20look%20inside&hl=el&ved=0CBkQxiAoA2oXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc and this www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.evdrives.com%2Fcontent%2Fvspfiles%2Fassets%2Fimages%2FCrimpingMedText.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fevdrives.com%2Fwhy-we-crimp-and-dont-solder-our-cable-lugs%2F&tbnid=UwnWGBUjDsOf8M&vet=10CAoQxiAoAWoXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc..i&docid=KoK999dqbt0vwM&w=677&h=369&itg=1&q=crimping%20connection%20look%20inside&hl=el&ved=0CAoQxiAoAWoXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc
This was incredibly satisfying to watch. Sorry about all the hate. I, too, prefer soldered connections, but I think you did a fine job here and the crimp connectors will work fine especially protected in a wrapped harness.
Excellent video. A useful tip somebody posted on TH-cam which I have since tried out for myself is to use a sewing stitch un-picker to remove the outer protective tape from the wiring loom. This cheap little tool is surprisingly effective.
It is important to start taping from branches into the trunk (with some overlap into the trunk as well) and then one continuous taping segment starting from a far branch through the trunk ending at another far branch and then caping that end with heat shrink. This way there won't be any chance of tape unraveling at the branches.
Nice! To all the haters, I would not EVER solder under the engine bay. Uninsulated, seamless high quality butt connectors, crimped with good Snap-On or Klein pliers, then covered with Marine grade 3:1 heatshrink made by Temco, is far superior to any solder joint. Crimps do not crack, you don't have to worry about too much solder running down the wire and making it stiff and brittle, and you don't have to worry about "cold solder joints." I have seen plenty of failed solder points in electronis, including consoles and TV's, due to heat. The soft solder alloys used in electronics / wiring are rather weak, because joints are operating at a high temperature relative to their melting point. Depending on the amount of current running through the wire, heat may or may not be an issue. A proper crimp, forms a cold weld in which when cut through, looks like a solid piece of metal. Moisture can not penetrate, and therefore, corrosion never occurs. Once wrapped in adhesive heatshrink, the truck will rott to the ground before that joint ever fails. Crimping is also the advised option and the standard in Marine application. Look up ABYC standards. “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit”. Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to “cold joints” breaking under fatigue, and removes strain. Lastly, in a enviroment where there will be large amounts of vibration (engine bay), solder is again, not recommended. Crimp away driving 4 answers!
While trying to track down the cause of my endlessly failing fuel pumps in my AW11, I replaced the entire engine bay wiring harness. The previous owner had hacked it up. Fortunately, I found a complete harness that was in good shape at the junkyard. I pulled it out of the junker, cleaned it up, re-loomed it and put it in the MR2. Sadly, it didn't fix the fuel pump issue. That was why I was seriously considering using motorcycle carbs like you did...to eliminate the fuel injection headaches. This was around year 1999. Thank you for your videos! I am really enjoying the memories they are triggering. :D I have even looked for used MR2s...but I have a wonderful car already, an Infiniti i30t that is paid for...which is better for me nowadays because I also remember how spinecrushing the MR2 ride was with the race suspension in it. I'm getting old... lol!
I totally understand your woes. One of the reasons why I went with carbs in my case is that my engine was a horrible mix of parts from different 4ages. I had a rwd 4age throttle body on a fwd manifold, which caused huge air leaks. I had a distributor from an ae92 (i think) where someone just soldered on the connectors to fit it, but it made all sorts of issues. The afm was always acting up. And that was just the tip of the iceberg. It was such a frankenstein that getting it running right was impossible. I also have a nice "normal" daily car, and I get you there as well. The mr2 is a weekend thing to put a smile on my face :)
I really like the heat shrink Connectors with solder in them. You get a crimp and when you heat the tube to close any openings it solders your connection
I'm not sure why everyone is giving you so much shit about using crimp connections instead of soldering. Crimp connections are preferred for automotive and aircraft use because cycling through hot and cold temperatures (as well as rain, snow, etc.) will cause the soldered connections to eventually crack and split apart. For what it's worth, I re-did the wiring harness and battery cables in my AW11 with crimp connections and it has been running fine for a year now.
Thanks for the support. A few people pointed out what you are saying. But I guess the majority likes to repeat what they have been told is right, without really thinking about it.
Jeff Reeves the worse part is moisture. use a proper but connector with sealant in it. or heatshrink with sealant. use heatshrink with sealant on solder connections also. solder takes up less space than a but connector. solder makes more connection than crimp. crimp also has more opportunity for corrosion due to the lack of contact. corrosion grows. are your but connectors stored in air tight container, that does not allow moisture and corrosion .. even before use? my opinion.. solder is best. only time OEM crimps is at the connectors. new er sensitive Devices are now soldered even at connectors.
If you're going to crimp repair a wire in a loom use crimps that have heat shrinkable casing on them. Stops water or moisture building up in the crimp causing the wire to break later on.
+Equal Thanks for the tip. I did wrap all the crimps in high quality electrical tape to stop moisture and other materials, plus wrapped the whole harness, should be safe.
+driving 4 answers (mr2 mk1 hero) For the price of the crimps allows better peace of mind and water/moisture will always find a way to mess up your loom , but I do think you did a good job of tidying the loom up.
Awesome video, would suggest getting a universal extraction tool to remove plugs and also, before removing the plug, I take a photo or my n note on a pad or something, just for the fact that if you get distracted for a brief second, you are covered
Basically I do the same EXCEPT I use a sheet of ply wood about 30" wide by 6 feet long laid with a sheet of paper then pin the harness down using screws and aluminum wire... draw all connectors and terminals on the paper sheet with orientation of wires in the plugs, remove all plug ends and wash them in the dishwasher, clean terminal ends and coat with electrical joint compound. Fix all frayed wires using same gauge and color wire using soldered butt splices with shrink tube, then Rewrap with harness wrap and friction tape, replacing any attaching clips and etc.
Ha, I felt the need to step in and say great job, even if you are already enjoying the fruits of your labor and don't have to listen to keyboard warriors like me and others. I really appreciate your taking the time to do a little bit of research and choosing the right process and materials (Tesa is good stuff) for the job. While your work isn't exactly mil-spec, at least you're not soldering. Personally, I splice open wires by crimping the ends with thin copper tube, then the connection is covered with adhesive-lined heat shrink. My crimping tool is a vise grip, works fine for my motorcycle. Someday I'll make a wiring harness from scratch using proper materials like Raychem and crimp tooling that costs hundreds of dollars, but that's a long way off for us DIY guys.
Best tool for getting spade connectors out of connector is a dental pick. You can usually pick them up frorm a military surplus store. You won't know how you lived without one once you have used it! Slide the pick between the spade and the plastic, press the tab down, gently pull from the back and it will slide right out. Little harder when you have two tabs in the same block but still the best way to them out without destroying the plastic connector.
@@d4a There are extraction tools available for different types of connectors and terminals- www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/2345721-1_Insertion-Extraction-Tools-Brochure.pdf
That cloth/ glass fibre tape works amazing.. inside a car or housing..insulating and keeps vibration noise down..example motorcycle harness exposed elements .. gets dirty, wet almost instantly and you cannot clean it..basic pvc electrical tape.. what it was designed for ?? that is why my 10, 000$ Harley Davidson didn't come with cloth tape
not sure if this was already mentioned however surgical tweezers help ease the process of removing the terminals from the connectors. alot better than those plastic tools.
No, put it on the connector holder before you wrap it with tape, sometimes theirs a situations that youre going to have a tensioned wire when you put it back to the machine.
I have a project car I bought and after watching this video I am not scared anymore to pull out the harness and repair lol. Or should I be. Thanks Bud.
Here's a new video with the wiring harness where I went a step further. th-cam.com/video/f40J85HPueg/w-d-xo.html Ignore the craziness in the first half of the vid :)
The only thing I think might have worked a little better is to solder the broken wires and use heat shrink. Not sure what type of black tape was used but be carefull. after time with all the engine heat some black tape will become brittle and crack, split and allow moisture to seep in. good video.
Solder is not appropriate for engine bay wiring. The act of soldering removes the flexibility of the wire in the joint area and flexibility is life, for a wire. Soldered joints are brittle and will eventually split due to the vibration ad temperature variations of the environment. Serious loom builders ONLY use crimped connectors and almost all production cars only have crimps in the engine bay
Bottom line is you did it! Okay now, I wouldn't have used a crimp butt connector, but they do work and even better all wrapped up. It greatly minimizes flexing. This video is years old now and I hope you have invested in connector depinning tools by now.
Had me until butt connectors. Aptly named because they are ass. Solder and heatshrink, or wish you did later while looking for that loose connection. Makes the whole thing worse than pointless to hide that crap in the loom.
I agree you can use a butt connector but an uninsulated one you can solder the connector but you should that the caution to clean it with alcohol after soldering( to remove the rosin) and use a glued type heat shrink to completely seal the repair zone. it is of a capital importance on an harness used on engine management system
Juan Fernandez try and find a soldered connection on a factory harness. the heat cycles in an engine bay destroy solder joints. hence everything wire in a good wiring harness will be crimped.
the essence of crimped connectors in automotive harnesses is essentially a matter of cost it's much more cost ( and time) effective to crimp instead of solder a terminal usually the failure of a soldered terminal is the corrosion and it's essentially due to a bad cleaning of the joint after soldering and to corrosion due to humid environnement. Often, I use uninsulated terminal that I crimp and insulate with a glued heat shrink sleeve. On the ignition wire, I always solder the terminals as a failure leads directly to a breakdown.
magnetic0314, I've never heard of such a thing. The insulation and heat shrink would start to burn before the solder received enough heat to melt or destroy proper solder connections. However, I'd be interested to see if you can cite something supporting your claim. What I could see happening is the wire getting too much juice or the joint being a poor connection creating resistance and getting too hot. That could over time slowly destroy the connection.
VideoMorsels the thing i see a lot of guys doing is using way too much solder. It wicks down the wire and ruins it and now it's solid. All you need is just a touch for a split second on a heated connection. Here's something similar but different. An old plumber showed me , when soldering copper pipe(old school), you know the size of it, say it's 1/2" copper. Bend the last 1/2 inch of your solder roll in a 90 degree bend , that's all you need. That thought can be carried over to wire soldering. You need less than you think. (Not you personally, sounds like you know what's up) Btw soldered plug wires make those pixies dance faster and give you more horsepowers 😂
My first thought when i saw the thumbnail! The least you could do is use shrink wrap type butt connectors or the heat shrink and solder in one type or good old solder and shrink wrap anything but the cheap open barrel type!
I clean mine of all tape then throw the harness into my ultrasound cleaner Hit it with compressed air and hair blower if I can’t hang outside in the sun Then wrap with a great tape and put dielectric grease on all connections
I've done this to a few harnesses. 60s chevy so simple but never did I use a but conector for a repair. if I find but connectors I remove them and solder the wire. I don't always heat shrink a single repair in a bundle can be taped then the harness wrapped I like heat shrink in situations that are not wrapped it looks cleaner.
Great video - well organised and explained. However, at 2.15 you could have avoided the use of those horrible connectors (another possibility for a voltsdrop) and instead slid a heat shrink tubing over one of the wires; then soldered them together, before sliding the heat shrink over the soldered part and heating with lighter or soldering lamp to shrink and properly seal the joint from moisture and thus protect it from corrosion. The connectors you show are prone to corrosion (resistance/voltsdrop) and poor reliability :( At 3.50 there are special tools available for extracting the soldered cable ends from the plastic connectors,. But still helpful video. Liked the music, too!
A few points if someone is to replicate this video: Try to avoid cheap butt crimps and those dollar store crimp pliers (try better crimp joints for use in automotive, or solder if you feel confident - it's much debate about this subject, but there is no debate that cheap pliers and cheap butt crimps are really bad). And try to do a good job on insulating against moisture. Keep a silicone tub nearby, and put silicone on the joint and put heat-shrink regardless of method (solder or crimp). You can also put silicone inside the rubber boot near the connectors. Try to find automotive harness insulation (i would opt for the ribbed plastic ones, wrapped with cloth like tape). As this type of insulation must be heat resistant, and also must cushion the wires to stand at a distance from any hard and hot object. So a ribbed plastic does exactly that. Also the heat will soften any glue from electrical tapes and will make a huge mess. That why the cloth wrap is not glued, but have only some rubberized cloth to self-stick in a wrap. There is a good reason car makers use this method for most vehicles. Try to makeshift a pin remover tool for the connector you have. (depending on style, it can be made with some wiper inserts and a dremel or other cheap alternatives). Cutting the plastic away is time consuming and have a good chance of damaging the wires. - leave this as last resort if any diy pin removing tool fails.
Beside that wrapping, some cables need special heat protection. Those were the plastic ribbed pieces. Some of the cables i have are very near to the engine, like injector wires and glow plug wires, and some areas of the harness go over the turbo between the turbo (very hot) and the heat shield. And in those areas the factory harness has all sorts of insulations of plastic, even solid plastic in weird shapes to contour the specific place on the engine. Might be reusable. And I prefer solder joints over spliced and twisted wires and heatshrink over it. But depends of the area.. a butt joint must be done with the proper tools.. i don't trust the generic ones, and the top notch butt joint crimps have a lot more protection to prevent water and air in (lots of heatshrink and silicon gel or something to fill the gaps)
for me, I will just twist together both wires and put elctrical tape on it , that's it, it works for me all the time and never had experience something wrong with it.,
@@laszu7137 I would not use the garbage that is the ROHS compliant solder, I would use a good high quality lead based solder in an automotive application. By removing the lead from the solder it becomes brittle and prone to cracking. Once the joint is complete a couple of small dabs of low temp hot glue allows for the shrink tube to create a watertight seal. I have done this before and never had any problems from the solder joints.
@@gingersquatch9844 Of course it depends on where exactly it is and wheher it's secured or hanging somewhere. But in general a proper solder is pretty much equivalent to a well executed twist splice. Good enough for most things, but only trouble-free permanent solution has always been crimp.
Cutting connectors is faulty idea, simple clip or pin could solve the problem. BTW.: I worked in automotive company producing wires, we had special tools to remove wires, before that you had to unsecure connector (open blockade).
Soldering isn't actually the best way to do it in automotive applications. The soldered joint creats a hard point where the strands of a wire can not move at all, and over time in the environment of a car or truck the strands begin to break. Eventually the wire completely breaks all the way through. The better way would have been uninsulated butt joints, crimped with a Molex crimper, and then sealed up with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.
for automotive high vibration and heat applications i use heat shrink crimp butt connectors as they hold up better with heat and vibration and are also water tight
If I need to fix a wire, I use butt connectors without the plastic coating. Just the metal piece. Heat shrink goes right over top and it’s nearly the same size as the wire with insulation. Grote has the connectors. www.grote.com/electrical-connections/electrical-terminals-connectors/uninsulated-butt-connectors/88-3110/
Alof of OEMs are using and swearing by crimp connectors now... but they are bonded with heat shrink to ensure a proper seal. There is nothing wrong with them when done right. You really should have heat shrinked that connector though and marked where the repair was made to help in the future. Also would have helped to leave a little more room when taping at the connector to see the wire colors in the future.
przerwane przewody trzeba było polutować i zabezpieczyć koszulką termokulczliwą. oglądałem do tego momentu, na dalsze oglądanie szkoda czasu. żadna rewelacja.
Jak to ładnie autor uargumentował poniżej: "Lutowane przewody z czasem łatwiej się przerywają". Co poniekąd jest prawdą. W odróżnieniu od domowej elektroniki, przewody w samochodzie pracują.
by doing this you might actually de-graded safety of the harness, because original one had electrical tape layer and then layer of tube (or some other shit) and only one layer of that stuff might not protect the harness if it is rubbing against something for long time or if it gets squashed in between some things. All im saying is you should put second layer of stuff like that original black tube or shrink tube so you dont damage the harness. (but yea it looks really nice :) )
A for Effort. I'm no pro, but please read: 1. When you reach the end of a wrap, make two or three "loose" wraps, and cut the tape cleanly with scissors, and lay it flat at the end. This will prevent the tape from being stretched and coming unraveled. 2. Wrapping the entire harness might look okay, but "restoration" means "the action of returning something to a former .... condition" The stuff you tore off (besides the tape) is called "wire loom" or "split loom". If you're careful during removal (and it's not too old and brittle) you can wash in hot soapy water, let it dry, and reuse most of it, or simply buy new, i It is very cheap as long as you can buy it by the foot. Wrapping the entire thing is just silly, imo. Be sure what ever you get has a split in it, unless you want to try and thread the wires through bit by bit. 3. If you have the entire harness apart why not replace the entire wire? Obviously more trouble than it's worth, unless you have the proper gauge wire and the correct pin removal tools handy. . And besides that, it sure looks like there is a splice about 4" upstream of the "repair" job, where one wire miraculously becomes two wires. If you are going to use crimped connectors, do a few practice crimps on loose wire scraps, and think about it before snipping an inch of wire out because it might not reach afterwards. Now would be a good time to add and extra fused wire or two, if needed, for the new stereo amp or trick chassis lights you are gonna put in. 4. Good luck finding the exact connectors that you need for your harness, and in my experience if the connector body is bad, the wires that go into it are hanging by a thread or poked full of holes. The insulation of wires that have been coated with oil, douched with gasoline, washed with brake cleaner, or routed near the exhaust manifold will be brittle and stiff and cracking, often leaving a half inch of bare wire at the connector. That's fun. 5. No $.99 Store or Dollar Tree crap assed tape or crimps should be used. Anywhere. Ever. Everything should be rated for automotive uses, and resistant to oil and heat. 6. The labels will all fall off before you even really start. That won't matter too much because what ever you wrote on them will be impossible to read or make no sense when you are finished. The ones that did stay on for the entire project will be a giant pain in the butt to remove. Choose and label your labels wisely.
As far as finding connectors go, some are much easier to locate then others. I build a lot of harnesses with GM connectors, and they are incredibly easy to locate. Some of the stuff imports used, not so much. Dead on with your other points.
Great video, though I solder the joins in my wiring harnesses, as the crimp connectors do work loose after a while, resulting in an intermittent issue.
If you use the proper non insulated crimps they don't work loose. It's how the professionals do it. And takes seconds, as apposed to the faff of soldering.
@@richardschofield2201 I prefer to solder and crimp. I am a retired professional auto engineer. Doing this the way I described gives a much more secure connection. I have been doing heavy current electrical connections this way for well over 40 years.
@@richardschofield2201 I never said how I did both solder & crimp. You assumed solder wicking. I AM aware of this, though I still solder & crimp. I use a combination of both techniques the guy in the video talks about, though in this video, You want some solder wicking. One other thing you failed to realise, is you took zero notice of my stated qualifications. Yes, I use expensive crimping tools, but I still solder the connections. You clearly have no idea how my system works. For this reason, plus you are still trying to make me look stupid, because you are too stupid to figure out how I do this, I am not going to explain this method. Have a good day, & do not respond, or you may not like what I have to say in my reply.
To everyone saying to solder and not use butt connectors, shut up. Quit spreading misinformation. Proper thing to do here is use better crimps and better crimpers. Change my mind.
you lost me with the butt connectors...just had 2 fail in my turn signal circuit caused breaker to blow/reset, took me awhile to figure out WTF was wrong. Fk butt connectors never again. Other tips and instructions in the video were really good though, thanks for posting!
So just a general observation or opening to a discussion I don't think connecting a broken wire with a buttconnector is a good idea. What I've heard is if you are going to solder instead of crimp is to spread the fibers on both ends and bring them together while twisting to ensure minimal resistance and conductivity
i bet its a 98 honda civic wireing harness being done by a 18 year old who works the gas pumps and feels like hes a mechanic and his car is right up there with Porsche in speed and quality ( and im not calling Porsche a quality product but people seem to think it is)
good video m8.Some good comments to.I feel much more prepared than I did before.What looked like a nightmare job you made look fun.Looking forward to the renovation.1984 BMW K100 motorcycle cafe racer build.
ya really... the worst thing you can do is use butt connectors on a harness.... do it right and solder the wires and use heat shrink over it. now thats how you do it right... now in the pasted i have used the butt connectors but i pulled the plastic off and soldered the wires into it... spend the extra 2 mins. and do it right.
I like no needless wordy, over explaining every detail, and failure to get to the point like most other videos. However, the tools are from the 99 cent bin and the tape should be wrapped so that it can be tensioned, like cable splicers are taught an cut with a scissors when complete. Others have already commented about NO but splices!
Yay. I'm not needlessly wordy. I'm happy with that. 99 cent bin parts did the job for me, and it made no sense buying pro stuff for one wire harness job. Of course one can always do better and I will work to improve what you mentioned.
You are a fucking godsend. No one has done good 4age videos like you. You should redo the video about the seven rib and explain how to tell them apart.
+tommy savage Thanks man. Your support means a lot. There's a lot more content coming, and I hope it will be even better than this. I'll redo the 7 rib video as soon as I get the time.
especially since he uses one of those cheap crimping pliers. It's also easy to use the wrong size of wire with those butt connectors as they often do not correspond to the size of wiring they are used on. Difference between metric and imperial
You should finish off by wrapping in new plastic wire loom (conduit) the ribbed covering you cut off in the beginning of the video. Or is that fabric wrap just as good? I think wrap it like you did then plastic conduit covering. Multiple sizes available at most autoparts stores or harbor freight for cheap.
Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a
Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u
Wiring harness tape that I used: amzn.to/2BmcgUO
But connectors: amzn.to/2IXKNgg
More butt connectors: amzn.to/2nXjQlC
Crimping pliers: amzn.to/2oFDe7a
Why not solder instead? : amzn.to/32qoW94
driving 4 answers hi please I need you help I have Suck it damage Insight I need to fix
Ml
I need video to watch how to fix wiring harness 5.3 Chevy Silverado
@@samanahmed986 always point it away from your eyes when sucking it then you wont get damage insight 😆😆😁😁
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I've done my fair share of wiring harnesses and I can tell you that adding vinyl non-stick tape to the harness, before you add the Tesa tape, does wonders for making sure the harness doesn't turn into a sticky mess after some heat cycles. I go Vinyl Tape > Kapton Tape > Tesa Tape. I use the Kapton Tape on areas that will see higher heat ranges as it's supposed to keep heat at bay. I wrap the harness in TechFlex sleeving and use marine grade heat shrink to keep it tight. Hmmm, I may do a video on this 🤔
Please do!
Links to the tape you use please!
@@Chache1527 For some reason I can't post a link in a reply, odd. But if you search for Dry Vinyl Tape or Non-Stick Vinyl Tape you'll get some hits! The Kapton Tape is pretty straight forward, search for that and you'll have a ton of options!
@@VegasBoost awesome thank you!
@@Chache1527 Anytime! I'll be making a video on these wiring issues soon and this gives me the idea to include the parts in the description!
Another way in wrapping the harness with electrical tape is to wrap the tape sticky side out and then go back over it sticky side down. It adheres well to it self and it doesn't make the wires sticky.
Great video. I’ve got to upload a video one day on making a harness from scratch. I like rebuilding my engines in-house for my company, and when I do they got back “deleted” (diesels). What I do is buy all new plugs for what sensors are left on the engine, put them all in place, and run wiring from each sensor back to the ECM. I use fibreglass braided sheathing thats dipped in acrylic, I then place a 1 inch piece of shrinkable tubing half over the sheath and half over the wiring going into the plug. I use varying sizes of sheath as the harness grows in size. The great thing about the fibreglass braiding is it’ll take up to 500 degrees without melting (way higher than the wire will take). The result is a million mile harness, thats neat and free of extra plugs from sensors that are no longer in use.
Please do. It will be very helpful
it was not too bad for restore it completely...
i hate those crimping connections.. i prefer to attach them by hand, solder them, and use heat shrink
actually, crimping connections are way better and stronger than soldering connections if they are done properly, crimping connection is not based on the friction between the cable and the cable lug as most peoples believe, crimping connection is based οn the exchange of atoms between the copper cable and the cable lug and the end result looks like this
www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Ftemcoindustrial.com%2Fmedia%2Fstatic%2Fproduct_guides%2Ftools%2Fcompression_crimp_xsection.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.reddit.com%2Fr%2FCarAV%2Fcomments%2F748rww%2Fpreferred_method_for_joining_4_gauge_terminals_to%2F&tbnid=g5JrUQ100eU1UM&vet=10CBkQxiAoA2oXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc..i&docid=aRZDYXIVRCAdQM&w=438&h=269&itg=1&q=crimping%20connection%20look%20inside&hl=el&ved=0CBkQxiAoA2oXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc
and this
www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.evdrives.com%2Fcontent%2Fvspfiles%2Fassets%2Fimages%2FCrimpingMedText.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fevdrives.com%2Fwhy-we-crimp-and-dont-solder-our-cable-lugs%2F&tbnid=UwnWGBUjDsOf8M&vet=10CAoQxiAoAWoXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc..i&docid=KoK999dqbt0vwM&w=677&h=369&itg=1&q=crimping%20connection%20look%20inside&hl=el&ved=0CAoQxiAoAWoXChMIgJrfi7W28gIVAAAAAB0AAAAAEAc
This was incredibly satisfying to watch. Sorry about all the hate. I, too, prefer soldered connections, but I think you did a fine job here and the crimp connectors will work fine especially protected in a wrapped harness.
Excellent video. A useful tip somebody posted on TH-cam which I have since tried out for myself is to use a sewing stitch un-picker to remove the outer protective tape from the wiring loom. This cheap little tool is surprisingly effective.
You don't know how happy it makes me to see the tesa tape instead of cheap .99 electrical tape
It is important to start taping from branches into the trunk (with some overlap into the trunk as well) and then one continuous taping segment starting from a far branch through the trunk ending at another far branch and then caping that end with heat shrink. This way there won't be any chance of tape unraveling at the branches.
Nice!
To all the haters, I would not EVER solder under the engine bay. Uninsulated, seamless high quality butt connectors, crimped with good Snap-On or Klein pliers, then covered with Marine grade 3:1 heatshrink made by Temco, is far superior to any solder joint. Crimps do not crack, you don't have to worry about too much solder running down the wire and making it stiff and brittle, and you don't have to worry about "cold solder joints." I have seen plenty of failed solder points in electronis, including consoles and TV's, due to heat. The soft solder alloys used in electronics / wiring are rather weak, because joints are operating at a high temperature relative to their melting point. Depending on the amount of current running through the wire, heat may or may not be an issue.
A proper crimp, forms a cold weld in which when cut through, looks like a solid piece of metal. Moisture can not penetrate, and therefore, corrosion never occurs. Once wrapped in adhesive heatshrink, the truck will rott to the ground before that joint ever fails. Crimping is also the advised option and the standard in Marine application.
Look up ABYC standards. “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit”. Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to “cold joints” breaking under fatigue, and removes strain.
Lastly, in a enviroment where there will be large amounts of vibration (engine bay), solder is again, not recommended.
Crimp away driving 4 answers!
Most automotive manuals recommend not using butt joints, but state if you are going to use them to solder the connection after crimping.
I own a D350, glad I saw your video, started fixing relay today and decided to pull all the wiring harness and make it look good. Thanks
thank you man honestly i couldn’t find any videos like this
In kenya we need people like you
While trying to track down the cause of my endlessly failing fuel pumps in my AW11, I replaced the entire engine bay wiring harness. The previous owner had hacked it up. Fortunately, I found a complete harness that was in good shape at the junkyard. I pulled it out of the junker, cleaned it up, re-loomed it and put it in the MR2. Sadly, it didn't fix the fuel pump issue. That was why I was seriously considering using motorcycle carbs like you did...to eliminate the fuel injection headaches. This was around year 1999.
Thank you for your videos! I am really enjoying the memories they are triggering. :D I have even looked for used MR2s...but I have a wonderful car already, an Infiniti i30t that is paid for...which is better for me nowadays because I also remember how spinecrushing the MR2 ride was with the race suspension in it. I'm getting old... lol!
I totally understand your woes. One of the reasons why I went with carbs in my case is that my engine was a horrible mix of parts from different 4ages. I had a rwd 4age throttle body on a fwd manifold, which caused huge air leaks. I had a distributor from an ae92 (i think) where someone just soldered on the connectors to fit it, but it made all sorts of issues. The afm was always acting up. And that was just the tip of the iceberg. It was such a frankenstein that getting it running right was impossible. I also have a nice "normal" daily car, and I get you there as well. The mr2 is a weekend thing to put a smile on my face :)
2:18 Video Stop! Goodbye!
wut?
I really like the heat shrink Connectors with solder in them. You get a crimp and when you heat the tube to close any openings it solders your connection
Sanjay gouda
I'm not sure why everyone is giving you so much shit about using crimp connections instead of soldering. Crimp connections are preferred for automotive and aircraft use because cycling through hot and cold temperatures (as well as rain, snow, etc.) will cause the soldered connections to eventually crack and split apart.
For what it's worth, I re-did the wiring harness and battery cables in my AW11 with crimp connections and it has been running fine for a year now.
Thanks for the support. A few people pointed out what you are saying. But I guess the majority likes to repeat what they have been told is right, without really thinking about it.
+1 a GOOD solid crimp is flexible, solder is not and eventually cracks with heat cycles.
Jeff Reeves
the worse part is moisture. use a proper but connector with sealant in it. or heatshrink with sealant.
use heatshrink with sealant on solder connections also.
solder takes up less space than a but connector.
solder makes more connection than crimp. crimp also has more opportunity for corrosion due to the lack of contact. corrosion grows. are your but connectors stored in air tight container, that does not allow moisture and corrosion .. even before use?
my opinion.. solder is best.
only time OEM crimps is at the connectors. new er sensitive Devices are now soldered even at connectors.
Jeff Reeves someone didnt take electrical
Jeff Reeves you're dead wrong..
Can't wait to get my MR2 out of storage and do this to the wiring harness. Please keep making videos you are the best!
thanks a lot for the positive feedback! Don't worry I'm just getting started :)
Great work on the very harness and on this video. In 40 odd years I’ve seen way to many dodgey jobs when it comes to wiring. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
If you're going to crimp repair a wire in a loom use crimps that have heat shrinkable casing on them. Stops water or moisture building up in the crimp causing the wire to break later on.
+Equal Thanks for the tip. I did wrap all the crimps in high quality electrical tape to stop moisture and other materials, plus wrapped the whole harness, should be safe.
+driving 4 answers (mr2 mk1 hero) For the price of the crimps allows better peace of mind and water/moisture will always find a way to mess up your loom , but I do think you did a good job of tidying the loom up.
Awesome video, would suggest getting a universal extraction tool to remove plugs and also, before removing the plug, I take a photo or my n note on a pad or something, just for the fact that if you get distracted for a brief second, you are covered
Basically I do the same EXCEPT I use a sheet of ply wood about 30" wide by 6 feet long laid with a sheet of paper then pin the harness down using screws and aluminum wire... draw all connectors and terminals on the paper sheet with orientation of wires in the plugs, remove all plug ends and wash them in the dishwasher, clean terminal ends and coat with electrical joint compound. Fix all frayed wires using same gauge and color wire using soldered butt splices with shrink tube, then Rewrap with harness wrap and friction tape, replacing any attaching clips and etc.
Seen so many stories of frailed engine harnesses, not sure why this one didn't use wire loom but at least the effort was made to clean it up.
Ha, I felt the need to step in and say great job, even if you are already enjoying the fruits of your labor and don't have to listen to keyboard warriors like me and others.
I really appreciate your taking the time to do a little bit of research and choosing the right process and materials (Tesa is good stuff) for the job. While your work isn't exactly mil-spec, at least you're not soldering.
Personally, I splice open wires by crimping the ends with thin copper tube, then the connection is covered with adhesive-lined heat shrink. My crimping tool is a vise grip, works fine for my motorcycle.
Someday I'll make a wiring harness from scratch using proper materials like Raychem and crimp tooling that costs hundreds of dollars, but that's a long way off for us DIY guys.
+TheFlyingHat Thank you. Glad to see someone gets the point of DIY work :)
Best tool for getting spade connectors out of connector is a dental pick. You can usually pick them up frorm a military surplus store. You won't know how you lived without one once you have used it! Slide the pick between the spade and the plastic, press the tab down, gently pull from the back and it will slide right out. Little harder when you have two tabs in the same block but still the best way to them out without destroying the plastic connector.
Henry Cole Stage Thanks for the tip, sounds like a good idea, I'll definitely try it next time I need to do something like this.
@@d4a There are extraction tools available for different types of connectors and terminals-
www.te.com/content/dam/te-com/documents/application-tooling/global/2345721-1_Insertion-Extraction-Tools-Brochure.pdf
That cloth/ glass fibre tape works amazing.. inside a car or housing..insulating and keeps vibration noise down..example motorcycle harness exposed elements .. gets dirty, wet almost instantly and you cannot clean it..basic pvc electrical tape.. what it was designed for ?? that is why my 10, 000$ Harley Davidson didn't come with cloth tape
not sure if this was already mentioned however surgical tweezers help ease the process of removing the terminals from the connectors. alot better than those plastic tools.
or SWISS JEWELER STYLE PRECISION MICRO FORCEPS TWEEZERS SET will be perfect too.
No, put it on the connector holder before you wrap it with tape, sometimes theirs a situations that youre going to have a tensioned wire when you put it back to the machine.
Respect for the ambition
I have a project car I bought and after watching this video I am not scared anymore to pull out the harness and repair lol. Or should I be. Thanks Bud.
Here's a new video with the wiring harness where I went a step further. th-cam.com/video/f40J85HPueg/w-d-xo.html Ignore the craziness in the first half of the vid :)
The only thing I think might have worked a little better is to solder the broken wires and use heat shrink. Not sure what type of black tape was used but be carefull. after time with all the engine heat some black tape will become brittle and crack, split and allow moisture to seep in. good video.
+Greg Chamberlain Same here. In a few years you may got a problem with the butt connector... soldering is much safer :]
Solder is not appropriate for engine bay wiring. The act of soldering removes the flexibility of the wire in the joint area and flexibility is life, for a wire. Soldered joints are brittle and will eventually split due to the vibration ad temperature variations of the environment. Serious loom builders ONLY use crimped connectors and almost all production cars only have crimps in the engine bay
@ballsDeepMotorsports - Correct. Nothin more too say - Thumbs up
I use Raychem solder sleeves thay are kind of expensive but military grade and used in missiles wiring
Bottom line is you did it! Okay now, I wouldn't have used a crimp butt connector, but they do work and even better all wrapped up. It greatly minimizes flexing. This video is years old now and I hope you have invested in connector depinning tools by now.
Bhai Man gaye wah ! Well Done bro !
Had me until butt connectors. Aptly named because they are ass. Solder and heatshrink, or wish you did later while looking for that loose connection. Makes the whole thing worse than pointless to hide that crap in the loom.
I agree
you can use a butt connector but an uninsulated one
you can solder the connector but you should that the caution to clean it with alcohol after soldering( to remove the rosin) and use a glued type heat shrink to completely seal the repair zone.
it is of a capital importance on an harness used on engine management system
Juan Fernandez try and find a soldered connection on a factory harness. the heat cycles in an engine bay destroy solder joints. hence everything wire in a good wiring harness will be crimped.
the essence of crimped connectors in automotive harnesses is essentially a matter of cost
it's much more cost ( and time) effective to crimp instead of solder a terminal
usually the failure of a soldered terminal is the corrosion and it's essentially due to a bad cleaning of the joint after soldering and to corrosion due to humid environnement.
Often, I use uninsulated terminal that I crimp and insulate with a glued heat shrink sleeve.
On the ignition wire, I always solder the terminals as a failure leads directly to a breakdown.
magnetic0314, I've never heard of such a thing. The insulation and heat shrink would start to burn before the solder received enough heat to melt or destroy proper solder connections. However, I'd be interested to see if you can cite something supporting your claim. What I could see happening is the wire getting too much juice or the joint being a poor connection creating resistance and getting too hot. That could over time slowly destroy the connection.
VideoMorsels
the thing i see a lot of guys doing is using way too much solder.
It wicks down the wire and ruins it and now it's solid.
All you need is just a touch for a split second on a heated connection.
Here's something similar but different.
An old plumber showed me , when soldering copper pipe(old school), you know the size of it, say it's 1/2" copper.
Bend the last 1/2 inch of your solder roll in a 90 degree bend , that's all you need.
That thought can be carried over to wire soldering.
You need less than you think.
(Not you personally, sounds like you know what's up)
Btw soldered plug wires make those pixies dance faster and give you more horsepowers 😂
My first thought when i saw the thumbnail! The least you could do is use shrink wrap type butt connectors or the heat shrink and solder in one type or good old solder and shrink wrap anything but the cheap open barrel type!
I clean mine of all tape then throw the harness into my ultrasound cleaner
Hit it with compressed air and hair blower if I can’t hang outside in the sun
Then wrap with a great tape and put dielectric grease on all connections
Great video, I'll more than likely be going through this process on my old Volvo. It's mostly the bullet connectors that are falling apart.
Play Button. Play Button I really like this post
This is my job since 2000 until now 2020.. make from cutting until finish good
I've done this to a few harnesses. 60s chevy so simple but never did I use a but conector for a repair. if I find but connectors I remove them and solder the wire. I don't always heat shrink a single repair in a bundle can be taped then the harness wrapped I like heat shrink in situations that are not wrapped it looks cleaner.
m
Great video - well organised and explained. However, at 2.15 you could have avoided the use of those horrible connectors (another possibility for a voltsdrop) and instead slid a heat shrink tubing over one of the wires; then soldered them together, before sliding the heat shrink over the soldered part and heating with lighter or soldering lamp to shrink and properly seal the joint from moisture and thus protect it from corrosion. The connectors you show are prone to corrosion (resistance/voltsdrop) and poor reliability :( At 3.50 there are special tools available for extracting the soldered cable ends from the plastic connectors,. But still helpful video. Liked the music, too!
Crimp away! Used crimp for my stereo it's golden!
A few points if someone is to replicate this video:
Try to avoid cheap butt crimps and those dollar store crimp pliers (try better crimp joints for use in automotive, or solder if you feel confident - it's much debate about this subject, but there is no debate that cheap pliers and cheap butt crimps are really bad). And try to do a good job on insulating against moisture. Keep a silicone tub nearby, and put silicone on the joint and put heat-shrink regardless of method (solder or crimp). You can also put silicone inside the rubber boot near the connectors.
Try to find automotive harness insulation (i would opt for the ribbed plastic ones, wrapped with cloth like tape). As this type of insulation must be heat resistant, and also must cushion the wires to stand at a distance from any hard and hot object. So a ribbed plastic does exactly that. Also the heat will soften any glue from electrical tapes and will make a huge mess. That why the cloth wrap is not glued, but have only some rubberized cloth to self-stick in a wrap. There is a good reason car makers use this method for most vehicles.
Try to makeshift a pin remover tool for the connector you have. (depending on style, it can be made with some wiper inserts and a dremel or other cheap alternatives). Cutting the plastic away is time consuming and have a good chance of damaging the wires. - leave this as last resort if any diy pin removing tool fails.
Dang bro they sell terminal tools, you didnt need to hurt that poor connector
Beside that wrapping, some cables need special heat protection. Those were the plastic ribbed pieces. Some of the cables i have are very near to the engine, like injector wires and glow plug wires, and some areas of the harness go over the turbo between the turbo (very hot) and the heat shield. And in those areas the factory harness has all sorts of insulations of plastic, even solid plastic in weird shapes to contour the specific place on the engine. Might be reusable. And I prefer solder joints over spliced and twisted wires and heatshrink over it. But depends of the area.. a butt joint must be done with the proper tools.. i don't trust the generic ones, and the top notch butt joint crimps have a lot more protection to prevent water and air in (lots of heatshrink and silicon gel or something to fill the gaps)
for me, I will just twist together both wires and put elctrical tape on it , that's it, it works for me all the time and never had experience something wrong with it.,
"How to restore a wiring harness" (uses open barrel butt connectors).....
bruh, I was thinking the same thing lolll
Your absolutely right!! I would have used solder and shrink tube!
@@gingersquatch9844 Good luck when that solder joint cracks and starts a fire.
@@laszu7137 I would not use the garbage that is the ROHS compliant solder, I would use a good high quality lead based solder in an automotive application. By removing the lead from the solder it becomes brittle and prone to cracking. Once the joint is complete a couple of small dabs of low temp hot glue allows for the shrink tube to create a watertight seal. I have done this before and never had any problems from the solder joints.
@@gingersquatch9844 Of course it depends on where exactly it is and wheher it's secured or hanging somewhere. But in general a proper solder is pretty much equivalent to a well executed twist splice. Good enough for most things, but only trouble-free permanent solution has always been crimp.
Cutting connectors is faulty idea, simple clip or pin could solve the problem.
BTW.: I worked in automotive company producing wires, we had special tools to remove wires, before that you had to unsecure connector (open blockade).
Silence is golden. *mute
first thing I did was to kill awful sound
This music is so ANNOYING! whyyyyyy
oh it looks very tangled but you are very skilled
Hello 🌞Advice, You need to put dw40 in all the car's electrical harnesses to avoid problems in the future 👌🏻 once a year , quality

Lost interest in this video once he used a butt connecter. Would have been better if he soldered and used heat shrink.
Soldering isn't actually the best way to do it in automotive applications. The soldered joint creats a hard point where the strands of a wire can not move at all, and over time in the environment of a car or truck the strands begin to break. Eventually the wire completely breaks all the way through. The better way would have been uninsulated butt joints, crimped with a Molex crimper, and then sealed up with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.
for automotive high vibration and heat applications i use heat shrink crimp butt connectors as they hold up better with heat and vibration and are also water tight
If I need to fix a wire, I use butt connectors without the plastic coating. Just the metal piece. Heat shrink goes right over top and it’s nearly the same size as the wire with insulation. Grote has the connectors.
www.grote.com/electrical-connections/electrical-terminals-connectors/uninsulated-butt-connectors/88-3110/
Da Sarge a
@@killerdoxen I've used these as well they work very well
Alof of OEMs are using and swearing by crimp connectors now... but they are bonded with heat shrink to ensure a proper seal. There is nothing wrong with them when done right. You really should have heat shrinked that connector though and marked where the repair was made to help in the future. Also would have helped to leave a little more room when taping at the connector to see the wire colors in the future.
the fabric tape is best..wont start falling apart like electrical tape but TESA makes best tape for car audio repairs and installs for clean wiring.
przerwane przewody trzeba było polutować i zabezpieczyć koszulką termokulczliwą. oglądałem do tego momentu, na dalsze oglądanie szkoda czasu. żadna rewelacja.
Jak to ładnie autor uargumentował poniżej: "Lutowane przewody z czasem łatwiej się przerywają". Co poniekąd jest prawdą. W odróżnieniu od domowej elektroniki, przewody w samochodzie pracują.
Amazing work! =D
Thank you
Soldering is so much fun, and just as quick...
by doing this you might actually de-graded safety of the harness, because original one had electrical tape layer and then layer of tube (or some other shit) and only one layer of that stuff might not protect the harness if it is rubbing against something for long time or if it gets squashed in between some things. All im saying is you should put second layer of stuff like that original black tube or shrink tube so you dont damage the harness. (but yea it looks really nice :) )
if I was ever to do this due to a problem with wiring. I would only use solder, heat shrink and wire loom.
i do that since 2002, and this harness was easy to repair. i use soldering iron, clips are not goods for me, maybe i do a video show how i do.
Good job. But as I remember the soft tape is for interior. Under hood, you need use standard black insulating tape.
Very right. I wanted saying same thing too
Yeah, soldered connections only other than that not bad
Thanks alot this video is so nice👌helps in understanding small concepts related to wire harness
Nice bro cute wiring
i just twist wires together real good with heat shrink tube. never had a problem
Good work
A for Effort. I'm no pro, but please read:
1. When you reach the end of a wrap, make two or three "loose" wraps, and cut the tape cleanly with scissors, and lay it flat at the end. This will prevent the tape from being stretched and coming unraveled.
2. Wrapping the entire harness might look okay, but "restoration" means "the action of returning something to a former .... condition" The stuff you tore off (besides the tape) is called "wire loom" or "split loom". If you're careful during removal (and it's not too old and brittle) you can wash in hot soapy water, let it dry, and reuse most of it, or simply buy new, i It is very cheap as long as you can buy it by the foot. Wrapping the entire thing is just silly, imo. Be sure what ever you get has a split in it, unless you want to try and thread the wires through bit by bit.
3. If you have the entire harness apart why not replace the entire wire? Obviously more trouble than it's worth, unless you have the proper gauge wire and the correct pin removal tools handy. . And besides that, it sure looks like there is a splice about 4" upstream of the "repair" job, where one wire miraculously becomes two wires. If you are going to use crimped connectors, do a few practice crimps on loose wire scraps, and think about it before snipping an inch of wire out because it might not reach afterwards. Now would be a good time to add and extra fused wire or two, if needed, for the new stereo amp or trick chassis lights you are gonna put in.
4. Good luck finding the exact connectors that you need for your harness, and in my experience if the connector body is bad, the wires that go into it are hanging by a thread or poked full of holes. The insulation of wires that have been coated with oil, douched with gasoline, washed with brake cleaner, or routed near the exhaust manifold will be brittle and stiff and cracking, often leaving a half inch of bare wire at the connector. That's fun.
5. No $.99 Store or Dollar Tree crap assed tape or crimps should be used. Anywhere. Ever. Everything should be rated for automotive uses, and resistant to oil and heat.
6. The labels will all fall off before you even really start. That won't matter too much because what ever you wrote on them will be impossible to read or make no sense when you are finished. The ones that did stay on for the entire project will be a giant pain in the butt to remove. Choose and label your labels wisely.
As far as finding connectors go, some are much easier to locate then others. I build a lot of harnesses with GM connectors, and they are incredibly easy to locate. Some of the stuff imports used, not so much.
Dead on with your other points.
if I could move my hands that fast I'd never leave the house
??????
I would recommend getting some channel-lock crimpers, you will never look back.
JollyRoger150 I agree with that one. Tried a few of those some days ago. Amazing.
All the music was making me wait for the guy with glowsticks to come out dancing!!
Smart job
Very good!
I use the fabric tape and then secured them with 3M 23, and then I sleeve them using pet and then heat shrink . Yes my mechanic hates me.
Great video, though I solder the joins in my wiring harnesses, as the crimp connectors do work loose after a while, resulting in an intermittent issue.
If you use the proper non insulated crimps they don't work loose.
It's how the professionals do it.
And takes seconds, as apposed to the faff of soldering.
@@richardschofield2201 I prefer to solder and crimp. I am a retired professional auto engineer. Doing this the way I described gives a much more secure connection. I have been doing heavy current electrical connections this way for well over 40 years.
@@christophermarshall5765 check these guys out.
th-cam.com/video/pOTrS6-mNtA/w-d-xo.html
@@richardschofield2201 I never said how I did both solder & crimp. You assumed solder wicking. I AM aware of this, though I still solder & crimp. I use a combination of both techniques the guy in the video talks about, though in this video, You want some solder wicking. One other thing you failed to realise, is you took zero notice of my stated qualifications. Yes, I use expensive crimping tools, but I still solder the connections. You clearly have no idea how my system works. For this reason, plus you are still trying to make me look stupid, because you are too stupid to figure out how I do this, I am not going to explain this method. Have a good day, & do not respond, or you may not like what I have to say in my reply.
@@christophermarshall5765 sensitive little fellow.
I'm sure your work is just wonderful.
To everyone saying to solder and not use butt connectors, shut up. Quit spreading misinformation. Proper thing to do here is use better crimps and better crimpers. Change my mind.
pretty cool, i would solder instead of crimp though. but thats just me.
Good rework
I have done it hundred of times here in Punjab...
you lost me with the butt connectors...just had 2 fail in my turn signal circuit caused breaker to blow/reset, took me awhile to figure out WTF was wrong. Fk butt connectors never again. Other tips and instructions in the video were really good though, thanks for posting!
I had zero issues with them, but I have a new wiring harness video, and I soldered everything :)
So just a general observation or opening to a discussion I don't think connecting a broken wire with a buttconnector is a good idea. What I've heard is if you are going to solder instead of crimp is to spread the fibers on both ends and bring them together while twisting to ensure minimal resistance and conductivity
Nice job, 👍
Perfect video my friend. i learned like 4 valuable things i didnt know.
+Luis Rodriguez thank you! Glad you found it useful.
One being on how to not repair a harness
i bet its a 98 honda civic wireing harness being done by a 18 year old who works the gas pumps and feels like hes a mechanic and his car is right up there with Porsche in speed and quality ( and im not calling Porsche a quality product but people seem to think it is)
Cool process..just don't understand why you would go thru all that trouble and not solder your splices instead of a but connector
good video m8.Some good comments to.I feel much more prepared than I did before.What looked like a nightmare job you made look fun.Looking forward to the renovation.1984 BMW K100 motorcycle cafe racer build.
I like your videos! Keep up the good work!
James panda Thank you. Will do :)
I'm not sure I would call crimp connectors "restoration" but to each their own.
ya really... the worst thing you can do is use butt connectors on a harness.... do it right and solder the wires and use heat shrink over it. now thats how you do it right... now in the pasted i have used the butt connectors but i pulled the plastic off and soldered the wires into it... spend the extra 2 mins. and do it right.
Agreed, why go through all that trouble and then use butt connectors to "fix" wiring connections
gotcha I've seen others where they tie and tuck it so wasn't sure it that was the way u did it
I like no needless wordy, over explaining every detail, and failure to get to the point like most other videos. However, the tools are from the 99 cent bin and the tape should be wrapped so that it can be tensioned, like cable splicers are taught an cut with a scissors when complete. Others have already commented about NO but splices!
Yay. I'm not needlessly wordy. I'm happy with that. 99 cent bin parts did the job for me, and it made no sense buying pro stuff for one wire harness job. Of course one can always do better and I will work to improve what you mentioned.
You are a fucking godsend. No one has done good 4age videos like you. You should redo the video about the seven rib and explain how to tell them apart.
+tommy savage Thanks man. Your support means a lot. There's a lot more content coming, and I hope it will be even better than this. I'll redo the 7 rib video as soon as I get the time.
BAHUT ACHHA LAGHA IS VIDEOS SAR
ନୃପରାଜ ରଣା
Simple video
This is more like a "how to make your bad wiring even worse" video
Just go buy new harness and save yourself from beung stuck in frozen snow or in a flooded road.
Check out those crappy crimpers! LOL
@@vance90640 lmao
Good work and job.
don't forget about the electric grease between the wires you have to apply
Do you have a video of removing and refitting the harness?
you should solder instead of crimping, much more reliable..
especially since he uses one of those cheap crimping pliers. It's also easy to use the wrong size of wire with those butt connectors as they often do not correspond to the size of wiring they are used on. Difference between metric and imperial
俺もつい先日やったぜ。純正廃盤、社外60,000円という状況だったから、試しにやってみたらめちゃんこ大変だった。難しいとかそうではなく、面倒くささという意味での大変さだね。でも、電材揃えて1万切ったし、導通もよくなったから、困ったらやってみるといいよ。やりがいはある。
You should finish off by wrapping in new plastic wire loom (conduit) the ribbed covering you cut off in the beginning of the video. Or is that fabric wrap just as good? I think wrap it like you did then plastic conduit covering. Multiple sizes available at most autoparts stores or harbor freight for cheap.
Looks Great!