A number of years ago I spent a good part of the day trying to bleed the brakes after changing a bad master cylinder......went through 3 new master cylinders that day, without getting a good pedal.....finally when the parts store ran out of master cylinders, tried a different brand, and immediately when bench bleeding it I could tell it was a good one. I had been wondering what I was doing wrong, but turned out all the master cylinders in that batch were bad.
Good point about how "new" parts can sit on a shelf for 5+ years, tires are another perfect example. I think part of the high cost of tires, is the clumsy storage...
I'm in Gilbert too. have a Wilwood master cyl and I wish there was a way to check the fluid without carrying around a tiny allen wrench. I can check brake fluid on almost any car without tools.
The proof is inside the bore, I used to be okay using remys but I also noticed high failure rate and although they tend to have LLT warranty it doesn't justify the wasted time replacing it. So on the last one I had to replace I popped out the snap ring opened it up and found grease-like sludge in the 2 month old one, when I got the replacement I did the same in the store and found a black sediment inside the "new" master. I myself switched to wilwood as well.
VenomGT87 what bore size do you recommend using with a wilwood master cylinder? I have disc brakes up front and drum in the back. I will upgrade to wilwood all around one day, but I’m using an aftermarket disc brake conversion on a 63 impala. Thanks in advance.
What I like most about the aftermarket, master cylinders like Wildwood, or CPP is they tend to look fantastic for years because they’re not porous like the cast iron OEM ones.
-- Have you ever used any of Wilwood's race brake pads? I'm looking at using Wilwood "Compound A" up front. I was reading Wilwood's friction charts and like what I see, but I have no real way of knowing what I have now as a base of comparison. -- I've never used real brake pad material before. It's always been stock, or Napa, Hawk LTS, HPS, and Hawk PC. But none of those companies really tell you what you're buying. I'm sick of it all. That's why I'm switching to Wilwood. -- I have a 1" Wilwood master, 2.9" single pistons up front, 2" single pistons out back. Hawk LTS pads up front, and Unknown pads out back. ABS delete. This is easily the best my braking system has ever been. But, I'm looking for more bite. Hence, why I'm so interested in actual Wilwood compounds. I'm gonna swap to D52's up front with dual 2" pistons, and then dual D154R's out back. One set is 2.5" with a handbrake, and the other is the 2" D154R to keep bias correct.
Thank you for this video Jason. Love the channel. You’ve definitely convinced me. Especially since my new mc that looks a lot like that one failed quickly. I even see where it looks like fluid leaked out from under the lid. Mine also did that. And most recently it’s leaking from in between the booster and mc. Indicative of a mc seal leak. Total junk. Want to go with Wilwood for sure.
If you're going to do it right do it right the 1st time. Having to keep re buying a master cylinder will just add up when you could of just done it right the first time & be done with it?
Hi.rebuilding my 1995 ford E350 cargo van with a 7.3 turbo diesel.will dual master cylinders-1 for front brakes-1 for rear brakes improve braking?so far unable to get a straight answer either way.
Im on my second wilwood. First one, brakes would randomly go soft, and finally failed. On my 2nd one, doing the same thing. Random soft pedal. I’m about ready to send this one back as well and go Baer.
Refined Performance I have Wilwoods on a 68 C10. Brakes will almost throw me through the windshield. Works great but mine were professionally installed.
Random, but no leaks? Odd - I'm thinking heat problem. Depending on the amount of moisture absorbed into dot3/4 fluid, the boiling point becomes a variable and it can drop quite a bit. That and if you have headers... how close are your lines? Some heat wrap in a few key spots might do the trick. Water turning to steam expands alot - maybe enough to damage seals as pressure in a closed system will build fast. I can't recall how much water brake fluid can absorb as a % before becoming complete garbage/saturating, but look up 'wet boiling' point for whatever fluid you use - it's typically a 3.7% benchmark test.
Did you keep the stock drums? -- Sometimes, you need some residual pressure on the rear drums to keep the shoes at low-lash. If not, you have to pump the pedal constantly to get them to bite, which can mess up the master cylinder. -- Did you use a hydroboost with ceramic pads? Some ceramic pads suck, so the hydroboost will gladly push the crap out of the master cylinder, thereby beating up the seals. I had Hawk PC pads on my truck, and they took forever to grab properly. I tossed in LTS and they were miles better.
Hi Jason! For those of us on a tight budget and who cannot afford Wilwood brand, Is there other you would suggest for a weekend (summer) 67 Mustang Gt with Disk/drums and manual master cylinder and stock Prop/dist valve? I will not buy the aftermarket Chinese junk most auto stores are selling for the reason you stated. Thank you sir.
Yeah you get what you pay for now days, the parts at advance, O junkies,ECT ... Are NO good when you buy them ! Buy good ones from the start, you way better off !
no offense but arent there millions and millions of good master cylinders operating safely everyday? Please dont fall into the old " they dont make em like they used to" trap.
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A number of years ago I spent a good part of the day trying to bleed the brakes after changing a bad master cylinder......went through 3 new master cylinders that day, without getting a good pedal.....finally when the parts store ran out of master cylinders, tried a different brand, and immediately when bench bleeding it I could tell it was a good one. I had been wondering what I was doing wrong, but turned out all the master cylinders in that batch were bad.
Good point about how "new" parts can sit on a shelf for 5+ years, tires are another perfect example. I think part of the high cost of tires, is the clumsy storage...
Put one on my 1967 cougar, and I put this wilwood to the test in the north california mountains, been on the car for seven years, thanks
I'm in Gilbert too. have a Wilwood master cyl and I wish there was a way to check the fluid without carrying around a tiny allen wrench. I can check brake fluid on almost any car without tools.
The proof is inside the bore, I used to be okay using remys but I also noticed high failure rate and although they tend to have LLT warranty it doesn't justify the wasted time replacing it. So on the last one I had to replace I popped out the snap ring opened it up and found grease-like sludge in the 2 month old one, when I got the replacement I did the same in the store and found a black sediment inside the "new" master. I myself switched to wilwood as well.
VenomGT87 what bore size do you recommend using with a wilwood master cylinder? I have disc brakes up front and drum in the back. I will upgrade to wilwood all around one day, but I’m using an aftermarket disc brake conversion on a 63 impala. Thanks in advance.
What I like most about the aftermarket, master cylinders like Wildwood, or CPP is they tend to look fantastic for years because they’re not porous like the cast iron OEM ones.
ever heard of paint
-- Have you ever used any of Wilwood's race brake pads? I'm looking at using Wilwood "Compound A" up front. I was reading Wilwood's friction charts and like what I see, but I have no real way of knowing what I have now as a base of comparison.
-- I've never used real brake pad material before. It's always been stock, or Napa, Hawk LTS, HPS, and Hawk PC. But none of those companies really tell you what you're buying. I'm sick of it all. That's why I'm switching to Wilwood.
-- I have a 1" Wilwood master, 2.9" single pistons up front, 2" single pistons out back. Hawk LTS pads up front, and Unknown pads out back. ABS delete. This is easily the best my braking system has ever been. But, I'm looking for more bite. Hence, why I'm so interested in actual Wilwood compounds. I'm gonna swap to D52's up front with dual 2" pistons, and then dual D154R's out back. One set is 2.5" with a handbrake, and the other is the 2" D154R to keep bias correct.
Thank you for this video Jason. Love the channel. You’ve definitely convinced me. Especially since my new mc that looks a lot like that one failed quickly. I even see where it looks like fluid leaked out from under the lid. Mine also did that. And most recently it’s leaking from in between the booster and mc. Indicative of a mc seal leak. Total junk. Want to go with Wilwood for sure.
100% True every thing is junk now.
Was disappointed my willwood went bad with less than 150 miles. Just ordered a new rebuild kit from summit.
I have the same Wilwood Master cylinder. What are your thought about ABS electric brake systems?
a few hundred dollars...like 500. I'm looking for an option that doesn't break the bank, and wilwood just seems so damn expensive
If you're going to do it right do it right the 1st time. Having to keep re buying a master cylinder will just add up when you could of just done it right the first time & be done with it?
500?? Wth How much is a compete Wilwood conversion disk brakes? I have a 68 Firebird
It’s only abt $200 on CJ Pony
@@abes9981 3,000+
I understand the point you're making and trying to get across and everything, but I thought this video was supposed to be about brake rotors and pads.
Hi.rebuilding my 1995 ford E350 cargo van with a 7.3 turbo diesel.will dual master cylinders-1 for front brakes-1 for rear brakes improve braking?so far unable to get a straight answer either way.
Can u use that wilwood master cylinder on a car with rear drum or does it have to have disc
Wilwood makes all kind of master cylinders, also rear drum/front disc cars.
Please get rid of the annoying background music. It makes it hard to concentrate on what you are saying.Have you tried to watch this video yourself?
I thought I watching the beginning of a P0rn0?
Im on my second wilwood. First one, brakes would randomly go soft, and finally failed. On my 2nd one, doing the same thing. Random soft pedal. I’m about ready to send this one back as well and go Baer.
Refined Performance I have Wilwoods on a 68 C10. Brakes will almost throw me through the windshield. Works great but mine were professionally installed.
Sounds like you have a leak
AirsickCashew Not a drop. Works like its intended.
Random, but no leaks? Odd - I'm thinking heat problem. Depending on the amount of moisture absorbed into dot3/4 fluid, the boiling point becomes a variable and it can drop quite a bit. That and if you have headers... how close are your lines? Some heat wrap in a few key spots might do the trick. Water turning to steam expands alot - maybe enough to damage seals as pressure in a closed system will build fast. I can't recall how much water brake fluid can absorb as a % before becoming complete garbage/saturating, but look up 'wet boiling' point for whatever fluid you use - it's typically a 3.7% benchmark test.
Did you keep the stock drums?
-- Sometimes, you need some residual pressure on the rear drums to keep the shoes at low-lash. If not, you have to pump the pedal constantly to get them to bite, which can mess up the master cylinder.
-- Did you use a hydroboost with ceramic pads? Some ceramic pads suck, so the hydroboost will gladly push the crap out of the master cylinder, thereby beating up the seals. I had Hawk PC pads on my truck, and they took forever to grab properly. I tossed in LTS and they were miles better.
I’ve had a re pop on my truck for 5is years now no problems
Can you put a link to the product?
try finding new seals and hone the bore, works every time, never use willwood and don't have trouble with rebuilds when done right
What would work for a 66 nova manual brakes disc front rotors
I have a1983 k10 how can I installed the brake lines
Hey jason
Running 4 d52s on a 1970 C10. (No booster) Which bore size wilwood master cylinder would you run?
Pedal ratio is a factor. Usually around 15/16” bore to start with.
Hi Jason! For those of us on a tight budget and who cannot afford Wilwood brand, Is there other you would suggest for a weekend (summer) 67 Mustang Gt with Disk/drums and manual master cylinder and stock Prop/dist valve? I will not buy the aftermarket Chinese junk most auto stores are selling for the reason you stated. Thank you sir.
Summit and jeeg has universal master cylinder
Baer Brakes, Strange Brakes or Endless Brakes
Do you know where i can find the correct Wilwood master cylinder and brake boost kit for a 67 cougar with a 2017 mustang gt 5.0 coyote swap?
The correct master cylinder depends on the brake kit you have... it is stock? It's upgrade?... with a coyote swap you'll need bigger brakes
What is the back ground noise!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How much did willwood pay for this?
What makes you say that?
We wish this was sponsored! Lol
Anyone know how I can find a wilwood kit for a 1999 suburban
try finding one an 82 f-truck
I have the remote tandem MC and it’s leaking after less than a year. Fucking pissed.
You should really show and explain the difference
Yeah you get what you pay for now days, the parts at advance, O junkies,ECT ... Are NO good when you buy them ! Buy good ones from the start, you way better off !
was it Chinese?
who pays the labor when you get a bad part? sucks for mechanic.
no offense but arent there millions and millions of good master cylinders operating safely everyday? Please dont fall into the old " they dont make em like they used to" trap.
Dude, just say it: Chinese car parts suck. It may not be politically correct, but everyone knows it's true.