spray primer , let dry and scuff it down with a scotch brite pad. then spray on your color coats, i do 3 coats of color a day. then in 2 days scuff the color paint with a scotch brite pad and add 3 more coats. then repeat that process until you are satisfied with the amount of color you have on the guitar body.
@@guitarforall I just finished a nitrocellulose lacquer sunburst on an ash body telecaster. I did not use grain filler. An experienced friend said he uses lacquer as grain filler so I tired but now all the grain shows even after tons of coats and sanding. It's done and looks nice but can you think of anything now or is it a bit too late?
@@biggstile do you have instagram? you can send a picture to me on there instagram.com/pyromaniacofdestruction?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= but there is a brand called ‘stew mac’ and they sell a can called “sanding sealer” it’s a nitrocellulose based clear spray that going on whenever you are doing the priming stage of the guitar body. for example: you can sand down your guitar again and make it smooth and level. then spray on the sanding sealer spray and it’s a very thin spray that helps close off pores or grain in the wood. (and it’s very easy to sand off). this sanding sealer is the best choice to use since it’s easy to sand and you’ll get great results if you want to keep any wood grain on the guitar body. but if you want ZERO wood grain on your guitar body, then i would recommend buying a automotive car glazing putty to apply to the guitar. it’s a thin paste than can be applied to the guitar body to fill in the wood pores. it’s much different than automotive body filler: body filler is thicker and is harder to work with. the glaze putty is much lighter and easier to sand down to work with.
Very cool. You’re right, if you prepare and put the time in, you can achieve a great finish with rustoleum cans. I’ve sprayed many guitars with cans and spent hours wet sanding from 400 to 7k and then buffing and achieving a show room finish.
Great job dude 👌 I'm looking forward to doing my first gloss finish this weekend ( I've always done the matte until now ) you give me hope for success with the rattle cans ! 🤘
thanks metaljay, the trick to get a nice gloss finish is using steel wool. after applying several color coats, i lightly sand it down with 800 grit or even 1000 grit. then after that i use the steel wool balls and sand everything down again, then you apply your 2K clear coat over it in light coats. (10 minutes in between coats) i use the WHOLE can on one guitar body. just be careful about humidity and dirt debris in the air that could stick onto your guitar whenever you are painting. but best of luck metal jay, keep us updated on instagram - acnewash
thank you! the spray can attachment was a game changer , no more sore fingers and more consistent spray applications. i hang the guitar because it’s hard to paint the whole body if it’s laying down on a surface or object. the key to prevent runs is to always do light coats, im pretty experienced at it and sometimes i get runs myself. you Just need to keep your can moving at all times , with light coats. and build your coats up until you have a nice even surface of color. wet sanding runs is best since it won’t remove as much material as dry sanding would
Use a block in the neck pocket and a screw where the strap goes in the back and paint it with the guitar flat then flip it over and use the wood on the back of the neck pocket or in the spring hole that keeps it flat and not hanging you'll get no drips flat
thank you! it took me many tries, after painting 10 guitars now. it feels comfortable working with it now and it’s a great joy. the color coating is my most favorite part , watching the transformation happen
i apply a few coats of color coat without having any runs or bad spots. let it dry for a few days. then i lightly sand the gloss out of the color coat (because the spray can is color and gloss at the same time, so i just scuff it all up with a scotch brite pad until everything is matte.) then you can add your clear coat on top, just make sure you keep a steady flow and distance with the cans. best of luck
Thanks Soooooo much for getting back with me so quick. You soothed my OCD worries. I will get some scotch brite pads. Will that remove paint drips and smooth out other imperfections. After dulling with the pads didn't you add some more red coats before the clear coat. Sorry for the questions, but I have started over strippng 2 times already and do not want to do it all over again. I searched the web and could not find any info whether you could sand the color coat.
@@mikeb792 unfortunately my camera wasn’t recording the process when i was doing it :(. but it’s the same way as spraying your color coats… spraying light coats from a 6-7 inch distance from the guitar. wet sanding at the end helps achieve that mirror like finish ..
Man you saved me! Haha I was about to use the 2X Rustolem clear coat until I started reading the comments here and saw you recommended the 2k spraymax clear coat. I see your note in the description. I have already painted the guitar with my 2X Rustolem color and was going to do the clear coat in like 2 days, I didn't think about sanding before the clear, thought I would lose some of the glossy color from the can but makes sense. Just to confirm though.... after the last color coat, did you do wet sanding? or only start wet sanding after the first clear coat? I'm at the state of ready for the clear coats just wanted to make sure I am good moving forward, if I should wet sand before going clear, or if I can go straight clear. Thanks in advance!!
@@Composercleo thanks for watching! 2K clear coat is the absolute best. i would only wet sand the color coat if you have any imperfections like dirt , bugs , or runs. i always scuff my paint coat before i apply the clear coat. i use a gray scotch brite pad and lightly scuff up the color before clear coat. and use glass cleaner to wipe down everything before you spray the clear coat , to remove any oils and grease from it. i spray about 4-5 coats of clear on the guitar. your first coat should not be completely wet , just do a nice light coat. wait 5 minutes. 2nd coat, light as well. then 3rd and so on … give it nice coverage keeping a 7 inch distance and overlap your coats about 75%. let it dry for 2 days and then wet sand it all with 2,000 grit , 2,500 then 3,000 and 3,500/4,000 if you have it. use meguiars polishing compounds to achieve a glass like finish. spending the extra bucks really makes a difference. let me know how it goes! please wear a good respirator for this
@@guitarforall Wow hey man thanks for replying so quickly! Okay cool! I have next to no imperfections (not sure how) but I do have the gray scotch brite pads though so I think I will give it a go (even though it will pain me to see the gloss go away 😭.. I know its for a better outcome haha) Thanks for the clarification! Was thinking I had to sand in-between the 2k coats. I do have the meguiars polishing compound and was going to just use a T-shirt to really get in there and give it some love.. (and hopefully build some more muscle haha) Got a good respirator too! I don't want the paint job to outlive me by that much! 😄Thank you so much for the quick reply, I will definitely let you know how it goes!
@@Composercleo removing the gloss from the color coat definitely helps with adhesion. the gloss on the color may cause runs with the clear coat cause it has nothing to stick too. so don’t be shy with the gray scotch brite pad. i used to sand in between my clear coats but i realized it really is a waste of time. 5 coats of clear is good to wet sand with. i always go heavy with the clear coat because it can always be wet sanded and buffed out. ebay has good buffing / polishing pads for a drill attachment. saves time and effort , if your gonna buff by hand use a microfiber cloth because a t shirt may scratch it up since it has strong fibers in it.
@@guitarforall Makes sense! Yeah I won't be shy promise haha since I did have to do it to scuff the original finish (which hurt less since I didn't like that color) Good point on the heavy with the clear since you sand and buff. Also good point on the scratching.. I think I will just get the foam polishing kit that you linked! Thanks for the clarification on all of this, feeling a lot better about finishing off my project!
@@Composercleo absolutely, best of luck. put your spray cans in warm water for 30 minutes before you spray. it helps soften up the material so it sprays out easier too.
there was clear coat added, but my camera died so it wasn’t recorded on video. used a full can of 2K clear coat and wet sanded with 600,800,1000,15000,2000,3000. polished and buffed out
@@StoneHands25 i would sand the body down with 400 grit and then 600 grit. to make sure it’s smooth before applying primer. just to remove any light scratches, with dings i would add some body filler to it and sand it down even so it doesn’t look weird whenever you add color on it. little details come a long way
@@danielavellino i would highly recommend using “2K clear glamour” clear coat. it’s a 2 part clear coat in a can and it provides the best smooth finish with very minimal orange peel.
@@danielavellino that’s good as well, maybe even better honestly. just make sure your air PSI is set to around like 29 for clear coat. test it out on something else before you spray the guitar. remember to clean off your guitar with glass cleaner to remove any grease or oils
i will make a new updated video next year in the spring. but for primer coats: do light coats only and wait 2 minutes before each coat. for color coats: do light coats and wait about 10 minute between coats. (please check your temperature that it is not below 72°F. and humidity is not over 40%. the weather apps on your phone can tell you this information). let the guitar dry for a week before you start doing the final wet sanding. i waited almost a month and it’s easier to sand because it is fully hardened and dried.
i used that before. and it left so much orange peel and imperfections. i use the 2k spraymax clear coat, $23 on amazon. It is literally the best clear coat i have ever used in my life. please watch some youtube videos about it, you need a good respirator since there are harmful vapors in it. so make sure you are safe and well ventilated. the 2k clear coat is the best affordable clear coat you can buy that will have a very long lasting finish. the rustoleum clear coat almost never cures, so it stays soft for a very very long time. the 2k clear coat hardens like a rock in 2-3 days.
Would Deft clear be compatible over Rustoleum 2x. I finished painting my Stratocaster with almost one can. There are no paint runs but there is orange peel. Should I wet or dry sand, or just apply the clear and then wet sand the orange peel off.
Yeah you can do it with spray cans, there are a ton of videos showing you can very easily do this and I have done it in the past, but the whole wait 2 months thing is BS depending on what you are using which once again depends on the chemistry of the lacquer and type of lacquer acrylic takes a couple weeks not months if you are taking months you are doing it wrong or the humidity level is way way too high where you live and you should think about doing it when its at its lowest.
@@nocturnal101ravenous6 i remember i did add the 2K clear can in a bucket of warm water for like an hour while i prepped the guitar. i really need to make a new video showing my updated process steps. i just need to find a guitar body to use…
@@danielavellino when painting the color coats i usually wait 5 minutes between coats. and i apply about 4-5 coats of color on a guitar body. then the next day i check for any runs or mistakes and lightly sand them with 800 grit. then apply your clear coat in the same way, light coats and a good distance to prevent mistakes / runs. 5-6 coats of clear coat to ensure a good coverage. i would wait 2 days before wet sanding.. make sure the guitar is in a well environment that is humidity controlled to ensure proper drying as well. always wet sand with a flat block and avoid your edges. Sand with 1,000 grit , 1,500, 2,000 and finish with 2,500 and 3,000.
yes. i always do this trick, even with primer , color and clear coat cans. it works great in the spring/summer time , in the fall weather it’s hard to get the warm can to stay warm. unfortunately now the temperatures have dropped and i might have to find someplace to do this paint job indoors. but thank you for watching!!
@@zemartinho9779 from experience… i started using the “2K Clear Glamour” clear coat. it’s a can you can buy almost anywhere online and it’s the best for gloss finishes. lacquer has too much orange peel which requires lots of wet sanding. the 2K clear coat lays down so much better and less orange peel.
@@zemartinho9779 i apply color coats until everything is even. wait 2 days for the color to dry and scuff up the paint lightly with a scotch brite pad… not too hard. it’s just to remove any dirt nibs or imperfections. this would also be a good time to wetsand out any runs you might’ve gotten from your color coats. Then blow off your guitar and use glass cleaner to clean up and fingerprints / oils from the guitar. then spray your 2K clear coat in light coats … 4 coats should be enough. 7 inch spraying distance, and please wear a respirator
@@MonkeyBall2453 the real story behind it. i went to a guitar shop to ask for junk guitar bodies for me to practice on. and the owner of the shop went into his parts room with me and he got that guitar body and threw it in on the ground as hard as he could. then he said “you can have that one”.
yes they used to be very cheap… now it’s up. couple cents for the paper back then. let alone all the parts that you need for guitars as well.. like pickgaurds, volume knobs , strings. but don’t cheap out on the clear coat! buy 2k clear coat.. much better results and harder finish. i’ll make an updated video soon
I'm confused, you sprayed the guitar with Rust-Oleum, which I thought was enamel, so where does the lacquer come in. I'm painting an old Fender Bass was planning on using lacquer spray products from Oxford paint.
@@EllisRitter-ui6qu my camera was not recording the lacquer / clear coat process. my mistake. but it’s the exact same steps as spraying the color coat. wet sanding and buffing is necessary if you want a mirror like finish. always sand flat
This was helpful. I think I’ve been spraying too much at once. I appreciate the advice on what to watch for as well. Thanks.
spray primer , let dry and scuff it down with a scotch brite pad. then spray on your color coats, i do 3 coats of color a day. then in 2 days scuff the color paint with a scotch brite pad and add 3 more coats. then repeat that process until you are satisfied with the amount of color you have on the guitar body.
@@guitarforall Good to know. Thanks!
Best explanation and results I've seen. Thanks
thank you! i’m glad it’s good for you, let me know if you have questions about any guitar paint work..
@@guitarforall I just finished a nitrocellulose lacquer sunburst on an ash body telecaster. I did not use grain filler. An experienced friend said he uses lacquer as grain filler so I tired but now all the grain shows even after tons of coats and sanding. It's done and looks nice but can you think of anything now or is it a bit too late?
@@biggstile was your goal to not have any wood grain show at all? just solid paint color?
@@guitarforall Some grain -- a little bit, but not as much as I do. Wish I could share a photo.
@@biggstile do you have instagram? you can send a picture to me on there instagram.com/pyromaniacofdestruction?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
but there is a brand called ‘stew mac’ and they sell a can called “sanding sealer” it’s a nitrocellulose based clear spray that going on whenever you are doing the priming stage of the guitar body. for example: you can sand down your guitar again and make it smooth and level. then spray on the sanding sealer spray and it’s a very thin spray that helps close off pores or grain in the wood. (and it’s very easy to sand off). this sanding sealer is the best choice to use since it’s easy to sand and you’ll get great results if you want to keep any wood grain on the guitar body. but if you want ZERO wood grain on your guitar body, then i would recommend buying a automotive car glazing putty to apply to the guitar. it’s a thin paste than can be applied to the guitar body to fill in the wood pores. it’s much different than automotive body filler: body filler is thicker and is harder to work with. the glaze putty is much lighter and easier to sand down to work with.
Very cool. You’re right, if you prepare and put the time in, you can achieve a great finish with rustoleum cans. I’ve sprayed many guitars with cans and spent hours wet sanding from 400 to 7k and then buffing and achieving a show room finish.
yes. prep is the most important role
Great job dude 👌 I'm looking forward to doing my first gloss finish this weekend ( I've always done the matte until now ) you give me hope for success with the rattle cans ! 🤘
thanks metaljay, the trick to get a nice gloss finish is using steel wool. after applying several color coats, i lightly sand it down with 800 grit or even 1000 grit. then after that i use the steel wool balls and sand everything down again, then you apply your 2K clear coat over it in light coats. (10 minutes in between coats) i use the WHOLE can on one guitar body. just be careful about humidity and dirt debris in the air that could stick onto your guitar whenever you are painting. but best of luck metal jay, keep us updated on instagram - acnewash
Looks great man! Do you have any more videos showing the completion of the project?
That looks great man!!!!
thank you! i might make an updated version soon
Love that spray holder attachment ! &---why hang the body vertical ? Surely paint runs are inevitable for amateurs?--any how --nice work!
thank you! the spray can attachment was a game changer , no more sore fingers and more consistent spray applications. i hang the guitar because it’s hard to paint the whole body if it’s laying down on a surface or object. the key to prevent runs is to always do light coats, im pretty experienced at it and sometimes i get runs myself. you Just need to keep your can moving at all times , with light coats. and build your coats up until you have a nice even surface of color. wet sanding runs is best since it won’t remove as much material as dry sanding would
Great video, extremely informative and helpful!
Use a block in the neck pocket and a screw where the strap goes in the back and paint it with the guitar flat then flip it over and use the wood on the back of the neck pocket or in the spring hole that keeps it flat and not hanging you'll get no drips flat
Impressive work!
thank you! more videos to come soon?
Well done. Looks really good.
thank you! it took me many tries, after painting 10 guitars now. it feels comfortable working with it now and it’s a great joy. the color coating is my most favorite part , watching the transformation happen
Thankyou --apologies for delay in replying --wifi in Africa is dodgy ! Ok --now I see how light coats prevent -runs ---thankyou
good luck! have fun and enjoy your project
Were you sanding the color or the clear topcoat. I need to know if I can sand the color before I apply the clear coat. Thanks - and great job.
i apply a few coats of color coat without having any runs or bad spots. let it dry for a few days. then i lightly sand the gloss out of the color coat (because the spray can is color and gloss at the same time, so i just scuff it all up with a scotch brite pad until everything is matte.) then you can add your clear coat on top, just make sure you keep a steady flow and distance with the cans. best of luck
Thanks Soooooo much for getting back with me so quick. You soothed my OCD worries. I will get some scotch brite pads. Will that remove paint drips and smooth out other imperfections. After dulling with the pads didn't you add some more red coats before the clear coat. Sorry for the questions, but I have started over strippng 2 times already and do not want to do it all over again. I searched the web and could not find any info whether you could sand the color coat.
Did I miss the part where you used Lacquer?
@@mikeb792 unfortunately my camera wasn’t recording the process when i was doing it :(. but it’s the same way as spraying your color coats… spraying light coats from a 6-7 inch distance from the guitar. wet sanding at the end helps achieve that mirror like finish ..
Man you saved me! Haha I was about to use the 2X Rustolem clear coat until I started reading the comments here and saw you recommended the 2k spraymax clear coat. I see your note in the description. I have already painted the guitar with my 2X Rustolem color and was going to do the clear coat in like 2 days, I didn't think about sanding before the clear, thought I would lose some of the glossy color from the can but makes sense.
Just to confirm though.... after the last color coat, did you do wet sanding? or only start wet sanding after the first clear coat?
I'm at the state of ready for the clear coats just wanted to make sure I am good moving forward, if I should wet sand before going clear, or if I can go straight clear.
Thanks in advance!!
@@Composercleo thanks for watching! 2K clear coat is the absolute best. i would only wet sand the color coat if you have any imperfections like dirt , bugs , or runs. i always scuff my paint coat before i apply the clear coat. i use a gray scotch brite pad and lightly scuff up the color before clear coat. and use glass cleaner to wipe down everything before you spray the clear coat , to remove any oils and grease from it. i spray about 4-5 coats of clear on the guitar. your first coat should not be completely wet , just do a nice light coat. wait 5 minutes. 2nd coat, light as well. then 3rd and so on … give it nice coverage keeping a 7 inch distance and overlap your coats about 75%. let it dry for 2 days and then wet sand it all with 2,000 grit , 2,500 then 3,000 and 3,500/4,000 if you have it. use meguiars polishing compounds to achieve a glass like finish. spending the extra bucks really makes a difference. let me know how it goes! please wear a good respirator for this
@@guitarforall Wow hey man thanks for replying so quickly!
Okay cool! I have next to no imperfections (not sure how) but I do have the gray scotch brite pads though so I think I will give it a go (even though it will pain me to see the gloss go away 😭.. I know its for a better outcome haha)
Thanks for the clarification! Was thinking I had to sand in-between the 2k coats. I do have the meguiars polishing compound and was going to just use a T-shirt to really get in there and give it some love.. (and hopefully build some more muscle haha)
Got a good respirator too! I don't want the paint job to outlive me by that much! 😄Thank you so much for the quick reply, I will definitely let you know how it goes!
@@Composercleo removing the gloss from the color coat definitely helps with adhesion. the gloss on the color may cause runs with the clear coat cause it has nothing to stick too. so don’t be shy with the gray scotch brite pad. i used to sand in between my clear coats but i realized it really is a waste of time. 5 coats of clear is good to wet sand with. i always go heavy with the clear coat because it can always be wet sanded and buffed out. ebay has good buffing / polishing pads for a drill attachment. saves time and effort , if your gonna buff by hand use a microfiber cloth because a t shirt may scratch it up since it has strong fibers in it.
@@guitarforall Makes sense! Yeah I won't be shy promise haha since I did have to do it to scuff the original finish (which hurt less since I didn't like that color)
Good point on the heavy with the clear since you sand and buff. Also good point on the scratching.. I think I will just get the foam polishing kit that you linked! Thanks for the clarification on all of this, feeling a lot better about finishing off my project!
@@Composercleo absolutely, best of luck. put your spray cans in warm water for 30 minutes before you spray. it helps soften up the material so it sprays out easier too.
Great video & great links!! A beautiful finish like that w/o any clear coats?
there was clear coat added, but my camera died so it wasn’t recorded on video. used a full can of 2K clear coat and wet sanded with 600,800,1000,15000,2000,3000. polished and buffed out
@@guitarforall Thanks for the update!!
Nice job!
thanks for watching!
If you have no nicks or dings can you just prime over the existing finish and then repaint?
@@StoneHands25 i would sand the body down with 400 grit and then 600 grit. to make sure it’s smooth before applying primer. just to remove any light scratches, with dings i would add some body filler to it and sand it down even so it doesn’t look weird whenever you add color on it. little details come a long way
How has this finish held up? The rustoleum cans seem to be the only ones I can find with colors I like.
still lasts long! i highly recommend using 2K clear coat
@@guitarforall nice dude. Thanks!
Hi, does it matter if the original coat is a nitro or poly finish? I want to paint over my poly finish but dont know if i can do this
without the title this is Jimmy Direstas voice
What clear coat do you use for this guitar?
@@danielavellino i would highly recommend using “2K clear glamour” clear coat. it’s a 2 part clear coat in a can and it provides the best smooth finish with very minimal orange peel.
@@guitarforall I was just going to use a two part clear coat that you mix and spray in a gun
@@danielavellino that’s good as well, maybe even better honestly. just make sure your air PSI is set to around like 29 for clear coat. test it out on something else before you spray the guitar. remember to clean off your guitar with glass cleaner to remove any grease or oils
Can you use Dunlop guitar cleaner/polish on that later on when you want to clean up fingerprints and the like?
you don’t have to really, just use a microfiber cloth to wipe it off
The only thing that I see you left out is you didn't say how long you let the thing dry after your first coat before you sanded it
i will make a new updated video next year in the spring. but for primer coats: do light coats only and wait 2 minutes before each coat. for color coats: do light coats and wait about 10 minute between coats. (please check your temperature that it is not below 72°F. and humidity is not over 40%. the weather apps on your phone can tell you this information). let the guitar dry for a week before you start doing the final wet sanding. i waited almost a month and it’s easier to sand because it is fully hardened and dried.
✌🏻
Interested in knowing what clear coat you used. Was it Rustoleum crystal clear enamel?
i used that before. and it left so much orange peel and imperfections. i use the 2k spraymax clear coat, $23 on amazon. It is literally the best clear coat i have ever used in my life. please watch some youtube videos about it, you need a good respirator since there are harmful vapors in it. so make sure you are safe and well ventilated. the 2k clear coat is the best affordable clear coat you can buy that will have a very long lasting finish. the rustoleum clear coat almost never cures, so it stays soft for a very very long time. the 2k clear coat hardens like a rock in 2-3 days.
Thanks for your time and quick response. I will buy some soon. You have answered all of my questions. Very appreciated.
@@williambrown5776 let me know what else you need. i need to make an updated video soon once i get another guitar body to work on at home.
I will thanks. Looking forward to your next video.
Would Deft clear be compatible over Rustoleum 2x. I finished painting my Stratocaster with almost one can. There are no paint runs but there is orange peel. Should I wet or dry sand, or just apply the clear and then wet sand the orange peel off.
Yeah you can do it with spray cans, there are a ton of videos showing you can very easily do this and I have done it in the past, but the whole wait 2 months thing is BS depending on what you are using which once again depends on the chemistry of the lacquer and type of lacquer acrylic takes a couple weeks not months if you are taking months you are doing it wrong or the humidity level is way way too high where you live and you should think about doing it when its at its lowest.
@@nocturnal101ravenous6 yes humidity should be very low. using 2K clear coat is the best option, dries and hardens in 2 days.
@@guitarforall Yep, I always also recommend when using cans to use a hot water bath in order to prevent nozzle clogging and it also prevents spitting.
@@nocturnal101ravenous6 i remember i did add the 2K clear can in a bucket of warm water for like an hour while i prepped the guitar. i really need to make a new video showing my updated process steps. i just need to find a guitar body to use…
Quick question do i have to use stew mac for polish?
@@danielavellino no i definitely recommend using other polishes / compounds. meguiers compounds are the best, so much better than the stew mac ones.
@@guitarforall any specific compound I should use?
@@guitarforalland how long should I wait for my paint to cure before wet sanding?
@@danielavellino when painting the color coats i usually wait 5 minutes between coats. and i apply about 4-5 coats of color on a guitar body. then the next day i check for any runs or mistakes and lightly sand them with 800 grit. then apply your clear coat in the same way, light coats and a good distance to prevent mistakes / runs. 5-6 coats of clear coat to ensure a good coverage. i would wait 2 days before wet sanding.. make sure the guitar is in a well environment that is humidity controlled to ensure proper drying as well. always wet sand with a flat block and avoid your edges. Sand with 1,000 grit , 1,500, 2,000 and finish with 2,500 and 3,000.
@@guitarforall and what polish do you recommend?
Why are you not covering the neck pocket the neck won't fit well if paint gets in there
@@joeywilliams7206 it fit tight; but wet sanded the paint down helped a lot
Also warm up your can in a bath of hot water reduces splatter.
yes. i always do this trick, even with primer , color and clear coat cans. it works great in the spring/summer time , in the fall weather it’s hard to get the warm can to stay warm. unfortunately now the temperatures have dropped and i might have to find someplace to do this paint job indoors. but thank you for watching!!
Is it necessary to do a clear coat with this method?
do you want a shiny gloss coat or a matte coat?
@@guitarforall Gloss. What kind of lacquer did you use?
@@zemartinho9779 from experience… i started using the “2K Clear Glamour” clear coat. it’s a can you can buy almost anywhere online and it’s the best for gloss finishes. lacquer has too much orange peel which requires lots of wet sanding. the 2K clear coat lays down so much better and less orange peel.
@@guitarforall Thanks for the quick reply! After the color coats, how long did you wait before applying the 2k clear?
@@zemartinho9779 i apply color coats until everything is even. wait 2 days for the color to dry and scuff up the paint lightly with a scotch brite pad… not too hard. it’s just to remove any dirt nibs or imperfections. this would also be a good time to wetsand out any runs you might’ve gotten from your color coats.
Then blow off your guitar and use glass cleaner to clean up and fingerprints / oils from the guitar. then spray your 2K clear coat in light coats … 4 coats should be enough. 7 inch spraying distance, and please wear a respirator
You ruined this priceless authentically reliced guitar body. 😂
@@MonkeyBall2453 the real story behind it. i went to a guitar shop to ask for junk guitar bodies for me to practice on. and the owner of the shop went into his parts room with me and he got that guitar body and threw it in on the ground as hard as he could. then he said “you can have that one”.
$7 a can now and those sandpaper sheets are like $1.59. Thanks biden
yes they used to be very cheap… now it’s up. couple cents for the paper back then. let alone all the parts that you need for guitars as well.. like pickgaurds, volume knobs , strings. but don’t cheap out on the clear coat! buy 2k clear coat.. much better results and harder finish. i’ll make an updated video soon
Yep. Just under $8 a can for this brand shown here. $20 +/- for a color shift can that was maybe $10 -$12 3 years ago. K🐫la will be more of the same.
Sorry Trumper. You’ll have to suffer the rest of your life, because ya boy’s going to jail!
None of that is Lacquer
jolly ranchers are so good that i am banned from buying them in the state of pennsylvania
I'm confused, you sprayed the guitar with Rust-Oleum, which I thought was enamel, so where does the lacquer come in. I'm painting an old Fender Bass was planning on using lacquer spray products from Oxford paint.
@@EllisRitter-ui6qu my camera was not recording the lacquer / clear coat process. my mistake. but it’s the exact same steps as spraying the color coat. wet sanding and buffing is necessary if you want a mirror like finish. always sand flat