Not much to restore a smoke unit Gary. It either works, or it doesn't So the only thing to do is replace the smoke element. Unfortunately, the only ones available now are Lionel units, which require more current to get to the proper heat range. Which means it simply doesn't put out nearly as much smoke as the original Marx element. The trick to separating the two halves is a thin topped screwdriver for prying , and a lot of patience.
Great video! I'm a retired carpenter and I get a bang out of your tolerances. I have a 1950 Lionel that won't run. These Marx motors are so simple to repair, compared to the Lionel. Enjoy your retirement, I sure do.
Thanks Dave, I'm a retired toolmaker, and that's where the tolerances come from. I've tried repairing Lionel, and all the motors I've seen are pressed together, and practically impossible to take apart. And yes, I'm enjoying my retirement as well.
in most cases the frozen motor is usually the armature bearing. heat the bearing with a cigarette lighter it will break free and run perfectly. no disassembly required.
This is a good video that helped me with my two Marx Trains I have one is the Rock Island Diesel and the other is my 666 like yours. Couple of questions - how did you clean the armature so clean? Also where did you learn to do this type of work?
Glad I could be of help John. I'm a retired toolmaker, so I turn the armatures down on my metal lathe. And my trade also helped me to learn how to rebuild these motors. I also make and repair parts of these motors that are unavailable in the aftermarket.
Something I learned recently, on a use motor you can get a better balance of power / speed in both directions by turning the brushes 180 degrees, or switching then from one holder slot to the other. They seem to have worn a certain way over the years and that way has better contact in the commutator.
The more the brushes wear into the commutator, the better contact they have. So when you switch them around, they have to 'break in' all over again. And as the video shows, the slot in the brushes needs to be on the outside so the brush spring holds it in place, to prevent it from rotating in the holder, which will also cause loose contact.
@@bobtesta5614 You might have got my point but thought I was mixed up. My point was when you take apart a used motor like this getting the brushes in the same slot and same position probable will not happen. So you run it and find the angle or the best place for each brush. Yes lock the spot in with the brush holder spring on each test.
There's no need to find the right angle for each brush, as they usually break in during the first few minutes of operation. So finding that "sweet spot" is both time consuming, and unnecessary.
@@Marxmotorman Not to be a pest, I just hada weird problem with a 1973 MPC diesel and after oil and running it came back to life but before that it was very very very slow. When I opened up the brush housing to get oil ob that top bearing, and check for grease on the worm gear on the bottom. When I put it back together it ran well on reverse but kind of slow on the forward. I moved and turned the brushes around according to what was sparking the most until it ran better in forward and still ran well in reverse. Less spark is better contact. Yes, if I had new brushes this would not have mattered. To me this was something I never experienced before and it worked out...
fantastic I'm starting my 333 assembly w/o smoke should help immensely great camera work for the viewer
The 333s are the most difficult, mainly due to the tightness of the axle bearings. Good luck.
I have watched numerous videos on Marx motor repair. This video, which includes tolerance checks, takes it to a new level. Excellent camera angle.
Thanks Kent. Tolerances are important. Too many don't bother to check them, but that's the key to whether a part is usable - - - or not.
Love it ! I’m just getting started working on Marx trains.
If you need any assistance, you know where to find me.
@ I have no doubt that I will be in touch at some point ! Much appreciated !
Very extensive and helpful information, thank you.
Glad to help Steve. BTW, your layout looks great!
@@Marxmotorman Thank you Bob.
This is a great instructional video.
Glad it was helpful!
Would like to see how to restore a smoke unit.
Not much to restore a smoke unit Gary. It either works, or it doesn't So the only thing to do is replace the smoke element. Unfortunately, the only ones available now are Lionel units, which require more current to get to the proper heat range. Which means it simply doesn't put out nearly as much smoke as the original Marx element. The trick to separating the two halves is a thin topped screwdriver for prying , and a lot of patience.
Best Marx motor video ever. *****😀
Thank you so much!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video! I'm a retired carpenter and I get a bang out of your tolerances. I have a 1950 Lionel that won't run. These Marx motors are so simple to repair, compared to the Lionel. Enjoy your retirement, I sure do.
Thanks Dave,
I'm a retired toolmaker, and that's where the tolerances come from. I've tried repairing Lionel, and all the motors I've seen are pressed together, and practically impossible to take apart.
And yes, I'm enjoying my retirement as well.
what do you make bushing/bearings out of? And it's a great video!
I use 1/4" brass stock and turn them down on my lathe.
@@Marxmotorman oh ok i need a lathe, lol how about the square bearings that go in the chassis, (in ho gauge)n= if you may know? Thx
@@legionfrog313 First off, there are no 'square' bearings in the chassis. And I don't understand what you mean by HO gauge. This is an O gauge motor.
@@Marxmotorman I don't see how I can send you pictures of the bearings that I have through here is there another way?
Has anyone experimented with regearing marx engine to slowdown ,more scale speed, 666 333
Not to my knowledge, but I've experimented with different types of resistors to lower the voltage going into the motor with mixed success.
i have a 666 that is locked up tighter then a drum.... going to start working on it... dont know what to look for
Just a cleaning, and a few drops of oil does wonders.
in most cases the frozen motor is usually the armature bearing. heat the bearing with a cigarette lighter it will break free and run perfectly. no disassembly required.
This is a good video that helped me with my two Marx Trains I have one is the Rock Island Diesel and the other is my 666 like yours. Couple of questions - how did you clean the armature so clean? Also where did you learn to do this type of work?
Glad I could be of help John. I'm a retired toolmaker, so I turn the armatures down on my metal lathe. And my trade also helped me to learn how to rebuild these motors. I also make and repair parts of these motors that are unavailable in the aftermarket.
Something I learned recently, on a use motor you can get a better balance of power / speed in both directions by turning the brushes 180 degrees, or switching then from one holder slot to the other. They seem to have worn a certain way over the years and that way has better contact in the commutator.
The more the brushes wear into the commutator, the better contact they have. So when you switch them around, they have to 'break in' all over again. And as the video shows, the slot in the brushes needs to be on the outside so the brush spring holds it in place, to prevent it from rotating in the holder, which will also cause loose contact.
@@bobtesta5614 You might have got my point but thought I was mixed up. My point was when you take apart a used motor like this getting the brushes in the same slot and same position probable will not happen. So you run it and find the angle or the best place for each brush. Yes lock the spot in with the brush holder spring on each test.
There's no need to find the right angle for each brush, as they usually break in during the first few minutes of operation. So finding that "sweet spot" is both time consuming, and unnecessary.
@@Marxmotorman Not to be a pest, I just hada weird problem with a 1973 MPC diesel and after oil and running it came back to life but before that it was very very very slow. When I opened up the brush housing to get oil ob that top bearing, and check for grease on the worm gear on the bottom. When I put it back together it ran well on reverse but kind of slow on the forward. I moved and turned the brushes around according to what was sparking the most until it ran better in forward and still ran well in reverse. Less spark is better contact. Yes, if I had new brushes this would not have mattered. To me this was something I never experienced before and it worked out...