Parts and Tools Used in this video! Wheel Bearing: www.rockauto.com Brake Caliper Hanger amzn.to/42IBVlA: Bearing Grease: amzn.to/3MvRSWC Small Pry Tools: amzn.to/3OdqVZ1 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Thank you very much for this. Both front hubs needed replacing and the dealer wanted $1800 to do it. Your video helped me do it for under $300. Much obliged!
He nailed the sound with "it sounds like you're running mud tires" and gets louder. Also a faint squeak at take off. My driver's side on my '15 went out at 114k.
my 2015 is making that sound on the drivers side but it makes the sound when I turn left which is a little different than what I thought since he says when you turn left it will be right side, Either way I just ordered new hubs from A1Auto
I have never had a wheel bearing go bad on any new or used car I've owned in my 25 years of driving. It's hard to believe the best selling truck 40 years running has such terrible quality like this. My 2020 needs a new driver side bearing. Thanks for posting this to make it affordable for us DIYers.
Come on man. All the vehicles I’ve owned have needed new hub assemblies on the front. You must not drive your vehicles for many miles or any actual use or you live in Florida and drive 500 miles a year😊
2018 with 106k on her. Barely noticeable, can hear a jiggle with windows down on driveway potholes. Yet to jack it up and see 100%. Bout to find out this weekend. Have breaks sitting waiting to go on. Also had advan Trac light pop on once or twice. Gonna replace speed sensors while I'm down there.
Having this issue on a 2018 Lariat 5.0 2wd with 178k highway miles. While rotating tires, I noticed about 1/32 of play on front passenger side. Will order parts and replace immediately. Thanks for the video and information. I do realize things are made different and in some cases don't last as long. Still, I love my Ford F150!
im not trying to be that guy but its always a good idea to sand the rust off where the new bearing seats, came to see the torque specs lol. its a 1 hr job. good luck fellas
Also...don't install that center hex nut (the one that has a dust cap) until after you've installed and tightened the (4) bolts to the new bearing. When you do install that center hex nut, grab the axle by the CV joint right at the bearing and pull it in towards the bearing (towards you). Need to make sure the axle and bearing are fully seated, or at least enough, when you tighten that center nut. If the nut isn't at torque and isn't showing 3/8-to-1/2" thread, it ain't on there all the way. I had to use a stubby 5# hammer to tap my old wheel bearing assembly off.
I watched your video to do this swap on my 2018 with the same noise turning hard right and then quieter turning left, and was beginning to make noise driving straight. Neither side had any play but I put a new hub assembly in the front left and the noise didn't change. Wondering if it's a rear bearing. Thanks for your video it gave me some confidence and surely saved me some time.
Glad I could show you the way to do it. I’ve been there with doing a wheel bearing and then having to do another. Sometimes it’s not as clear which one it is. That’s why I’ve been trying to do both front and both rears at the same time.
Great Video. I just ordered a set of hubs for my 2017 F150. Driver side is getting pretty bad and I'm doing front brakes on it anyways so figured I'd replace them as a pair. Nice to see its a pretty straight forward job.
Thanks! It’s a good time to do them while you are doing brakes. It was a pretty easy job as long as things aren’t rusted up. When I did my brakes one of the caliper slides was rusted stuck.
All stock 2015 with 205k (mostly highway) is still doing good on original bearings, front bushings and 4wd actuators are worn out and failing so I’m just doing the bearings while it’s torn down. Great video!
That is definitely the longest I've heard on these bearings! My New England winters, and unpaved roads really do take a toll on them. Glad you liked the video!
Do all assembly come with the wiring? I bought a 2020 with a four inch lift kit and wonder if the wires that come with wiring would be long enough or if I can use my existing wires since they might be longer.
All the assemblies I’ve seen come with the wiring. I haven’t seen anyone with a lift that’s four inches have to extend them. Maybe there is just enough slack for them?
Excellent video. Nice and to the point. I think if I have all my power tools laid out I can get this done in about 15 minutes lol. It is incredibly sad that these F150 unit bearings can and often fail at under 50k miles. We have a 2017 Platinum that now has the mud tire growl of death. Started growling at like 48k miles is all. I guess I know what I am doing next week! I don't think I've ever seen your channel before. I think we do a lot of the same stuff. Awesome and thanks again.
Did you have warning symbols light up from putting a new sensor on with the new bearing? Mine all the sudden has a warning symbol on the navigation screen and cruise control wont work.
@ I can’t remember the brand, it was a cheaper one. I think the sensor or connector is bad. I never got it to seat and “click” into the harness. It looks all the way in, but never clicked fully in. Going to try and replace the sensor
dude thank you. this actually made this look very easy. mine is grinding terribly and i’m hoping it can make it another 100 miles, already have the replacement!
I’m pretty sure my drivers side wheel bearing needs to be replaced, but I’m only getting noise when making right right turns at slow speeds like on an off ramp. It is not loud when driving straight, and that seems a bit unusual to me.
It’s making noise when you are turning to the opposite side since all the weight of the vehicle shifts to that side. My suggestion would be to do both wheel bearings at once.
Nice job illustrating where the bolts are. Very well done. I'm a girl trying to do this on my own except I'm doing it on the front so I appreciate your beautiful illustrations❤
Nice to see a real "shade tree" mechanic. Surprised you didn't use any impact tools. I having a "perceived" wheel bearing noise on my 2016 Ford xl 4wd. When I get new tires I'll know if it is the tires or a bearing. Great video all in all.
Yep. That's a good description of me! Sometimes I like the exercise of not using impact wrenches... lol. Thanks! I get that perceived wheel bearing noise. That is how mine started out.
@@SmackeysGarage ok that makes sense. And since u were replacing the hub assembly to “original” specs with a new one it should’ve been aligned. I’m just curious since previous vehicles I replaced bearings and hub assemblies I would get aligned just in case.
I got a 2021 Ford Ranger with 52k miles on it. Just received my new bearing today. Installing soon. It doesn’t help that I’m running 20x12 wheels with a -44 offset, but this seems sooner than it should’ve been.
I always use the diagrams at Tasca's site to find the part number. I'm not sure the year of your truck, but check this out. This is an 18 5.0. www.tascaparts.com/v-2018-ford-f-150--xlt--5-0l-v8-flex/brakes--front-brakes
@@SmackeysGarage Yes, the Corvette's have to be set up with shims and runout checked with a dial indicator, they are a real pain! And there's no way to grease them afterwards, just have to pack them real good during installation. 👍
Thanks for the video! I have a 2016 F150 that has a horrible humming noise while traveling at various speeds. This could very well be my problem and your video will help me. I'm curious though and I didn't hear it mentioned. In addition to replacing both sides at the same time, would you suggest an alignment after a job like this?
Yes I would do both sides at the same time. You shouldn’t need an alignment because you aren’t adjusting or removing any of the suspension. If you notice any abnormal wear on the tires I would align it.
Hey quick question. I saw another video where somebody had to use a vacuum tool to suck in the four-wheel-drive actuator in the hub. Is that necessary? I am about to do mine. I have a 2016 4 wheel drive XLT.
Pretty sure my left wheel hub needs replacing ('humming' goes away turning left, very noticeable turning right). But no warning lights, and no sound like 'rubbing' or scrapping. Replace now or wait?
You typically won’t get a warning light for it. Replacement is up to you, but you definitely know it’s on its way out. Personally I would rather than take a chance of a failure.
Usually if it is when you turn left... you are loading up the right side and it is the right wheel bearing. It is very hard to tell and I've been wrong about 50% of the time though.... I'd suggest doing them both.
I doubt you would have any luck with it. Comes as an assembly and I wouldn't want to pull the old one apart to grease it and risk not being able to get it back together.
Not sure if this was stated in the comments already or in the video but i didn't see it. This is for a 4x4. The wheel bearing hub assembly for a rwd will not have the center spindle. Threw me when I got mine in from Rock Auto. Otherwise great video and thanks for showing how it's done!
Don't trust that turning to the left and the noise gets louder means that it is the passenger side with the loading. Because there is side loading. When I turned to the right The noise went away. When I turn to the left it got louder. It was my driver side. It's all about side loading
Well mine is making the mud tire sound 😢. They want $1300 to replace front and rear. Said the whole hub has to be replaced. Can't just do the bearings. Hmm One other thing. Did you use aftermarket parts or Ford parts?
Yikes... Yea the whole hub needs to be replaced. It isn't as easy as swapping out the bearings as with older cars. I didn't go with OEM parts on my truck. I would have gone OEM, but at the time when I did the replacement there was a shortage and I couldn't get ahold of any.
Starting the truck to turn the hub and/or retract the 4wd actuator ring, requires stepping on the brake. The brake caliper is off the rotor so don’t forget your piston retraction tool!
@@SmackeysGarage I started it with no issues, light touch on the brake pedal. I’ll try without next time but I still think you need to start it to retract the actuator ring .(if you don’t have a vacuum pump ) Thanks 👍
Do you have an electronic emergency brake and if so did you put the emergency brake in service mode before you started? You didn't mention anything about that, I'm just curious
@@SmackeysGarage but that’s how the axel tightens up with the wheel bearing ( How ford recommends to do it ) asides from that tiny 13 mm bolt . I’ve seen people put vacume into it and some not.
I usually google it and there will be a few sites that pop up. Typically the forums are good sources of this information for us who do not have service manuals. I'd check this site and then crossreference across a forum. ford-specs.com/cars/2017/f1503.5/torque-specs_front.php
My truck is having a sound almost like I'm driving over those ripples they put in the road. I was told it was torque convertor shudder. I did a flush and took it to a transmission shop and they said it wasn't the trans. It happens whenever it feels like it. There's no rhyme or reason when it does it. It's not constant it just does it pretty much whenever at different times. I'm lost on what it is. Anyone help?
Yes I currently doing my brakes see if that'll do anything (doubt it will) but I checked all the suspension and the cv axle even check my IWE system for the 4 wheel drive and it seems to be holding air and working as it should. Idk what the heck it is. Driving me crazy though
I'm not sure. I can go check my truck tomorrow if there is a slide you need to pull out but I thought it was only necessary to bend the tab out of the way then pull.
Hello I have a 2016 F150 Lariat 4x4 2.7 ecoboost. On some videos that I have watched, they use a mityvac. Do you think I need that on my Truck to do this? Sorry I am not an auto mechanic. Thanks
To do a wheel bearing replacement? No. I would seek some help from a friend with a project like this. Do you have a video where they show the use of a mityvac?
@@SmackeysGarage, the vacuum pump (Mityvac) is used to pull in the 4WD hub actuator prior to installing the new hub. If you skip this step, the splines on the hub and the actuator can get bound up and the 4WD will not properly engage or disengage.
Did you notice if you had any issues with your 4x4 with the bad wheel bearing ? I have my driver side going on and it won’t go into 4x4 anymore. Comes up with a check 4x4 icon
@@SmackeysGarage I appreciate your reply. I also think I may have a bad hub actuator. The bearing has been making some noise for a little bit now I’d assume. Had my big wheels and tires on it for summer and recently went to my stocks for winter and noticed the sound was loud from the bearing. Going to check my vacuum on it and see where that gets me.
@robertbauer6924 that happened to my last truck. It was more of a big grinding noise and metal on metal than a bearing. When those do go they tend to make a lot of noise. (At least in my 2011 it did).
@@SmackeysGarage mine sounds like a bearing, had my shop look at it when he did an alignment and said I had some minor play in the tire. I’m thinking the bad bearing has hurt or compromised the iwe causing the 4x4 to not engage
I don't know if you are able to do the bearing only in the front. I believe in the front you must do the hub. If you find otherwise let me know. It's quite the assembly. I know looking at Rockauto, it is much easier to find a rear bearing only (no hub).
My f150 2017 5.0 when I ride on dirt roads I feel a clicking noise in the steering wheel I already took it for inspection and everything is fine with everything that is suspension it could be someone who has experience with their f150 who has been through the same thing thank you
@@SmackeysGarage thanks. 58k on mine and I just used your videos to do the brakes as the back were gone. Front had lots of life yet, but the bottom guide pins where both tight, so replaced it all.
@onionriverranch sounds like you had the same scenario as mine. Back were gone, sliders in mine were frozen. I probably could have reused the front rotors and pads if I replaced the brackets. Mine also had a lot of life in them. Thanks for watching!
@@SmackeysGarage I did it today. The only real catch was that the rotor was rusted to the hub. It took some persuading with a wood block and hammer, but I got it done.🤣
I only hear the noise when 2H is active. Not sure if that narrows it down to the hub/bearing. When I engage 4h it goes away. Also how do the aftermarket fair compared to OEM? Seems like they are either backordered or way overpriced
That’s interesting when you engage 4h is goes away. Do you notice it only when driving straight? For the aftermarket vs OEM… you’re kind of stuck running the aftermarket right now (like me). I would have bout OEM or Moog if they were in stock. Instead I bought the highest end rock auto one that was available. 10k miles and still going strong.
Most likely part of your 4WD vacuum system is starting to fail. When the system doesn't hold vacuum the IWE actuators in the front hubs start to partially engage and make a chattering or grinding sound. You can borrow a vacuum tester from an auto parts store and test each side to see if it's a bad IWE or bad lines/check valve. There are some good videos on YT that will walk you through the process.
Sad sad video. testament to the crap quality of modern cars. 2018 truck. ALREADY needing a bearing. i have a 1990 1500 with original bearings in it. Still solid. 180K miles. Nothing but chinese junk these days.
@@holdonsnow1028my 2017 drivers side went out at exactly 163 too. Lol but it did take a massive hit from a big ass deer that busted the Iwe and let some trash get in there.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS!!!!! DO BOTH WHEEL BEARINGS!!! I do like the diagnostic reasoning behind the first part but if one goes out the next ones bouned by fire to go next. Especially with hub assemblies since there's no grease zurk. Good video though😊
@@SmackeysGarage just did my parents f150, was having issues with the spindle nut cap on the driver side, which is how I ended up here, started with the driver side.. turned out the seal was shot causing heat, which resulted in a very rusty and crusty assembly haha. I was really appreciative to have such a descriptive video for it. Thank you much
Parts and Tools Used in this video!
Wheel Bearing: www.rockauto.com
Brake Caliper Hanger amzn.to/42IBVlA:
Bearing Grease: amzn.to/3MvRSWC
Small Pry Tools: amzn.to/3OdqVZ1
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Don’t need to spend money on a hanger. lol. Hole in frame holds a caliper tab. It’s in the frame design
Thank you very much for this. Both front hubs needed replacing and the dealer wanted $1800 to do it. Your video helped me do it for under $300. Much obliged!
1800 is the highest I’ve heard! You are welcome!
Where are you getting your parts at for under $300??? Just ordered some and the hubs alone were close to $600 for both sides
He nailed the sound with "it sounds like you're running mud tires" and gets louder. Also a faint squeak at take off. My driver's side on my '15 went out at 114k.
my 2015 is making that sound on the drivers side but it makes the sound when I turn left which is a little different than what I thought since he says when you turn left it will be right side, Either way I just ordered new hubs from A1Auto
Got a 15 with 125k and 16 wides and they finally are going out. Replacing them tomorrow
@bullproductionfilms8744 nice. They lasted a good bit.
Thank you! I could not find the words to explain the noise. Its suttle at the moment and seems to go away, but at first start up I hear it.
I have never had a wheel bearing go bad on any new or used car I've owned in my 25 years of driving. It's hard to believe the best selling truck 40 years running has such terrible quality like this. My 2020 needs a new driver side bearing. Thanks for posting this to make it affordable for us DIYers.
Glad to help! New England where I live is tough on wheel bearings.
Come on man. All the vehicles I’ve owned have needed new hub assemblies on the front. You must not drive your vehicles for many miles or any actual use or you live in Florida and drive 500 miles a year😊
Put 100k miles on my kia. Never had this issue@@KATmando07
Great videos, appreciate you! Any chance you got a video coming on lower ball joint removal on these 18 F150s?
Thanks! I'll check mine out and see how it is early this spring when it warms up. How many miles on your truck?
2018 with 106k on her. Barely noticeable, can hear a jiggle with windows down on driveway potholes. Yet to jack it up and see 100%. Bout to find out this weekend. Have breaks sitting waiting to go on. Also had advan Trac light pop on once or twice. Gonna replace speed sensors while I'm down there.
Sounds like a lower ball joint, you are right. I'm at ~76k so I'm getting up there too.
Raise it by the lower arm n pull up on tire with pry bar to get an accurate verdict? I got no movement by hand when changing oil.
@joshlamport5489 that is the way I’d check it. Sometimes hard to see on trucks until it’s really bad.
Thank you so much! The stealership wanted $650 to do this job. Me and my son shared this time together with your help!
You are welcome!
Having this issue on a 2018 Lariat 5.0 2wd with 178k highway miles. While rotating tires, I noticed about 1/32 of play on front passenger side. Will order parts and replace immediately. Thanks for the video and information. I do realize things are made different and in some cases don't last as long. Still, I love my Ford F150!
Glad to help. I'm the same way. I really love my truck. It's hard seeing myself ever NOT having a F150 in my driveway.
im not trying to be that guy but its always a good idea to sand the rust off where the new bearing seats, came to see the torque specs lol. its a 1 hr job. good luck fellas
Also...don't install that center hex nut (the one that has a dust cap) until after you've installed and tightened the (4) bolts to the new bearing. When you do install that center hex nut, grab the axle by the CV joint right at the bearing and pull it in towards the bearing (towards you). Need to make sure the axle and bearing are fully seated, or at least enough, when you tighten that center nut. If the nut isn't at torque and isn't showing 3/8-to-1/2" thread, it ain't on there all the way.
I had to use a stubby 5# hammer to tap my old wheel bearing assembly off.
You are the life saving comment brother thank you!
I watched your video to do this swap on my 2018 with the same noise turning hard right and then quieter turning left, and was beginning to make noise driving straight. Neither side had any play but I put a new hub assembly in the front left and the noise didn't change. Wondering if it's a rear bearing. Thanks for your video it gave me some confidence and surely saved me some time.
Glad I could show you the way to do it. I’ve been there with doing a wheel bearing and then having to do another. Sometimes it’s not as clear which one it is. That’s why I’ve been trying to do both front and both rears at the same time.
Great job! Used it for my ‘18 and it was flawless.
Let me know if you do the track replacement on the sunroof!
Thanks! I'm hoping I don't have to do that... but it seems like most have to do it at some point.
I've had my sunroof done by the dealer about 6 times until they did it correctly, under warranty of course,lol!
Great Video. I just ordered a set of hubs for my 2017 F150. Driver side is getting pretty bad and I'm doing front brakes on it anyways so figured I'd replace them as a pair.
Nice to see its a pretty straight forward job.
Thanks! It’s a good time to do them while you are doing brakes. It was a pretty easy job as long as things aren’t rusted up. When I did my brakes one of the caliper slides was rusted stuck.
All stock 2015 with 205k (mostly highway) is still doing good on original bearings, front bushings and 4wd actuators are worn out and failing so I’m just doing the bearings while it’s torn down. Great video!
That is definitely the longest I've heard on these bearings! My New England winters, and unpaved roads really do take a toll on them. Glad you liked the video!
Do all assembly come with the wiring? I bought a 2020 with a four inch lift kit and wonder if the wires that come with wiring would be long enough or if I can use my existing wires since they might be longer.
All the assemblies I’ve seen come with the wiring. I haven’t seen anyone with a lift that’s four inches have to extend them. Maybe there is just enough slack for them?
Excellent video. Nice and to the point. I think if I have all my power tools laid out I can get this done in about 15 minutes lol. It is incredibly sad that these F150 unit bearings can and often fail at under 50k miles. We have a 2017 Platinum that now has the mud tire growl of death. Started growling at like 48k miles is all. I guess I know what I am doing next week! I don't think I've ever seen your channel before. I think we do a lot of the same stuff. Awesome and thanks again.
Thanks appreciate it! Yea it is crazy that they go that quickly. Awesome channel by the way! Love that LS Swapped ranger!
Did you have warning symbols light up from putting a new sensor on with the new bearing? Mine all the sudden has a warning symbol on the navigation screen and cruise control wont work.
I did not. What brand replacement did you go with? I'd check that it is fully seated in the connector.
@ I can’t remember the brand, it was a cheaper one. I think the sensor or connector is bad. I never got it to seat and “click” into the harness. It looks all the way in, but never clicked fully in. Going to try and replace the sensor
dude thank you. this actually made this look very easy. mine is grinding terribly and i’m hoping it can make it another 100 miles, already have the replacement!
Good luck! It isn't too bad of a project as long as things aren't seized in there.
I’m pretty sure my drivers side wheel bearing needs to be replaced, but I’m only getting noise when making right right turns at slow speeds like on an off ramp. It is not loud when driving straight, and that seems a bit unusual to me.
It’s making noise when you are turning to the opposite side since all the weight of the vehicle shifts to that side. My suggestion would be to do both wheel bearings at once.
Nice job illustrating where the bolts are. Very well done. I'm a girl trying to do this on my own except I'm doing it on the front so I appreciate your beautiful illustrations❤
Nice to see a real "shade tree" mechanic. Surprised you didn't use any impact tools. I having a "perceived" wheel bearing noise on my 2016 Ford xl 4wd. When I get new tires I'll know if it is the tires or a bearing. Great video all in all.
Yep. That's a good description of me! Sometimes I like the exercise of not using impact wrenches... lol. Thanks! I get that perceived wheel bearing noise. That is how mine started out.
Great video, nice and simple to follow. One question, did you get a front end alignment after replacing the hub assembly?
No I didn’t. I did not touch the suspension or anything that would impact the steering alignment.
@@SmackeysGarage ok that makes sense. And since u were replacing the hub assembly to “original” specs with a new one it should’ve been aligned. I’m just curious since previous vehicles I replaced bearings and hub assemblies I would get aligned just in case.
Thank you! This video is what I wish all car tutorial videos were!
😂😂
Thanks for the feedback!
I got a 2021 Ford Ranger with 52k miles on it. Just received my new bearing today. Installing soon. It doesn’t help that I’m running 20x12 wheels with a -44 offset, but this seems sooner than it should’ve been.
Yea. Seems like the offset won't help, but 50k seems to be the norm for these trucks when they get used.
great video but your install from mark 5:20 didnt show how to reroute the harness. i guess i have remember how it came off.
disregard the comment i just figured it out. once again great video. thank you....
Thanks. Appreciate it. I usually don't go through putting it all back together on camera but that's good feedback.
Do you know the 21MM bolt part number for replacement recommendation?
I always use the diagrams at Tasca's site to find the part number. I'm not sure the year of your truck, but check this out. This is an 18 5.0. www.tascaparts.com/v-2018-ford-f-150--xlt--5-0l-v8-flex/brakes--front-brakes
Great job! I have a little play in one of the rear wheel bearings on my 79 Corvette, I sure wish they were as easy to change as that!
Thanks Mitch! Same here with the older cars. Do you pack the grease and do it all yourself manually?
@@SmackeysGarage Yes, the Corvette's have to be set up with shims and runout checked with a dial indicator, they are a real pain! And there's no way to grease them afterwards, just have to pack them real good during installation. 👍
Thanks for the video! I have a 2016 F150 that has a horrible humming noise while traveling at various speeds. This could very well be my problem and your video will help me. I'm curious though and I didn't hear it mentioned. In addition to replacing both sides at the same time, would you suggest an alignment after a job like this?
Yes I would do both sides at the same time. You shouldn’t need an alignment because you aren’t adjusting or removing any of the suspension. If you notice any abnormal wear on the tires I would align it.
Hey quick question. I saw another video where somebody had to use a vacuum tool to suck in the four-wheel-drive actuator in the hub. Is that necessary? I am about to do mine. I have a 2016 4 wheel drive XLT.
It does disengage the 4wd when you put vacuum on it. I’ve never done that on my truck (mine operates the same way).
Pretty sure my left wheel hub needs replacing ('humming' goes away turning left, very noticeable turning right). But no warning lights, and no sound like 'rubbing' or scrapping. Replace now or wait?
You typically won’t get a warning light for it. Replacement is up to you, but you definitely know it’s on its way out. Personally I would rather than take a chance of a failure.
I have the same noise if I am walking forward or turning left, the noise goes away completely when I turn right. Side R or L ?
Usually if it is when you turn left... you are loading up the right side and it is the right wheel bearing. It is very hard to tell and I've been wrong about 50% of the time though.... I'd suggest doing them both.
I have a bad hub and am waiting on mine to be delivered. I have to drive meantime. Can I grease my bad one temporarily to help quieten it or no?
I doubt you would have any luck with it. Comes as an assembly and I wouldn't want to pull the old one apart to grease it and risk not being able to get it back together.
@@SmackeysGarage thanks. Just annoying noises I think I’ll make it til part arrives
I'm having a problem getting the original rotor off. No there's not a bolt holding it on. Any suggestions
Big hammer. If they get stuck I typically use a 5lb sledgehammer. They usually seize to the face of the hub. Can also tap around the hub.
Not sure if this was stated in the comments already or in the video but i didn't see it. This is for a 4x4. The wheel bearing hub assembly for a rwd will not have the center spindle. Threw me when I got mine in from Rock Auto. Otherwise great video and thanks for showing how it's done!
That’s a great point. Thanks!
What do you recommend for replacement parts; OEM or third party?
Depends on the part. For the wheel bearing I'd go OEM or high quality third party.
Don't trust that turning to the left and the noise gets louder means that it is the passenger side with the loading. Because there is side loading. When I turned to the right The noise went away. When I turn to the left it got louder. It was my driver side. It's all about side loading
Better off just replacing both any way. If one is going, the other one is usually close to needing replacing as well.
Well mine is making the mud tire sound 😢. They want $1300 to replace front and rear. Said the whole hub has to be replaced. Can't just do the bearings. Hmm
One other thing. Did you use aftermarket parts or Ford parts?
Yikes... Yea the whole hub needs to be replaced. It isn't as easy as swapping out the bearings as with older cars. I didn't go with OEM parts on my truck. I would have gone OEM, but at the time when I did the replacement there was a shortage and I couldn't get ahold of any.
BROOOO!! Saved me a ton of time and money that I would've spent going to a mechanic!!
Awesome!
Starting the truck to turn the hub and/or retract the 4wd actuator ring, requires stepping on the brake. The brake caliper is off the rotor so don’t forget your piston retraction tool!
I wouldn’t start it to move the wheel. The power steering is electric. You should be able to turn the key on and then twist if that is what you needed
@@SmackeysGarage I started it with no issues, light touch on the brake pedal. I’ll try without next time but I still think you need to start it to retract the actuator ring .(if you don’t have a vacuum pump )
Thanks 👍
OMG what wires are you talking about are those in the front also
I'm never going to be able to do this by myself am I
If you aren't confident in it, I would get a second person to give you a hand on the project. Nothing wrong with that,.
What kind of grease did you use before you put the replacement on?
It is a Valvoline linked in the video description. Motorcraft also makes their own grease (XG-11)
Do you have an electronic emergency brake and if so did you put the emergency brake in service mode before you started? You didn't mention anything about that, I'm just curious
I do have an electronic emergency brake. It’s part of the rear calipers. I did not put it in service position to do the front
5:16 ? Did you not pulll back the 4x4 actuator ?
I did not when I changed out the hub
@@SmackeysGarage but that’s how the axel tightens up with the wheel bearing ( How ford recommends to do it ) asides from that tiny 13 mm bolt . I’ve seen people put vacume into it and some not.
Interesting that some do it and some don’t. I do have a vacuum pump (manual one) that I could have pulled it in with if it needed it.
Where is a good place to find torque specs for 2017 f150. Great video.
I usually google it and there will be a few sites that pop up. Typically the forums are good sources of this information for us who do not have service manuals. I'd check this site and then crossreference across a forum. ford-specs.com/cars/2017/f1503.5/torque-specs_front.php
Thank you I appreciate the input. Videos are awesome and a life saver. Thanks again
Thanks for the feedback!! You are welcome.
This video saved my life. Appreciate it man!
Glad I could help!
You should pull in the 4 wheel drive hub actuator with a vacuum pump before pressing the hub into the steering knuckle.
My truck is having a sound almost like I'm driving over those ripples they put in the road. I was told it was torque convertor shudder. I did a flush and took it to a transmission shop and they said it wasn't the trans. It happens whenever it feels like it. There's no rhyme or reason when it does it. It's not constant it just does it pretty much whenever at different times. I'm lost on what it is. Anyone help?
Have you checked the axles? I'd see if all the bolts are still in
Yes I currently doing my brakes see if that'll do anything (doubt it will) but I checked all the suspension and the cv axle even check my IWE system for the 4 wheel drive and it seems to be holding air and working as it should. Idk what the heck it is. Driving me crazy though
@@cavyboy99that’s really weird. That’s where I would have went next, the IWE. When you said holding air, did you mean holding vacuum?
Yes the vacuum. @@SmackeysGarage
Hey buddy why am I having such a hard time unplugging the abs sensor up top. It’s not budging. Any ideas?
I'm not sure. I can go check my truck tomorrow if there is a slide you need to pull out but I thought it was only necessary to bend the tab out of the way then pull.
@@SmackeysGarage I got it man ! No worries thanks for the reply. I appreciate your videos.
@@joshwhite3229 glad to hear!! Thanks!!
This was extremely informative. Thank you for this.
Glad to help.
Hello I have a 2016 F150 Lariat 4x4 2.7 ecoboost. On some videos that I have watched, they use a mityvac. Do you think I need that on my Truck to do this? Sorry I am not an auto mechanic. Thanks
To do a wheel bearing replacement? No. I would seek some help from a friend with a project like this. Do you have a video where they show the use of a mityvac?
@@SmackeysGarage, the vacuum pump (Mityvac) is used to pull in the 4WD hub actuator prior to installing the new hub. If you skip this step, the splines on the hub and the actuator can get bound up and the 4WD will not properly engage or disengage.
What grease from ford did you use?
probably valvoline multi-vehicle
Did you notice if you had any issues with your 4x4 with the bad wheel bearing ? I have my driver side going on and it won’t go into 4x4 anymore. Comes up with a check 4x4 icon
I didn't see that issue but I could see if it isn't registering the right speed it may not allow you to use 4x4.
@@SmackeysGarage I appreciate your reply. I also think I may have a bad hub actuator. The bearing has been making some noise for a little bit now I’d assume. Had my big wheels and tires on it for summer and recently went to my stocks for winter and noticed the sound was loud from the bearing. Going to check my vacuum on it and see where that gets me.
@robertbauer6924 that happened to my last truck. It was more of a big grinding noise and metal on metal than a bearing. When those do go they tend to make a lot of noise. (At least in my 2011 it did).
@@SmackeysGarage mine sounds like a bearing, had my shop look at it when he did an alignment and said I had some minor play in the tire. I’m thinking the bad bearing has hurt or compromised the iwe causing the 4x4 to not engage
@@B0bBau3r that makes sense. On the older truck swapping it out wasn’t that bad.
@smackeysgarage How do you know if need a hub or just a bearing? (~$280 vs $10)?
I don't know if you are able to do the bearing only in the front. I believe in the front you must do the hub. If you find otherwise let me know. It's quite the assembly. I know looking at Rockauto, it is much easier to find a rear bearing only (no hub).
My f150 2017 5.0 when I ride on dirt roads I feel a clicking noise in the steering wheel I already took it for inspection and everything is fine with everything that is suspension it could be someone who has experience with their f150 who has been through the same thing thank you
Might want to check on the IWE. When mine was going it randomly made a clicking noise and then a grinding noise.
Thank you for uploading this video. The video helped me locate the problem with my truck.
Glad it helped!
How many miles were on your original wheel bearings? Thanks
Around 60k miles. Up here in New England the suspension takes a beating.
@@SmackeysGarage thanks. 58k on mine and I just used your videos to do the brakes as the back were gone. Front had lots of life yet, but the bottom guide pins where both tight, so replaced it all.
@onionriverranch sounds like you had the same scenario as mine. Back were gone, sliders in mine were frozen. I probably could have reused the front rotors and pads if I replaced the brackets. Mine also had a lot of life in them. Thanks for watching!
386k on mine
You should get a vacuum pump to release the 4×4
Yea, I could have done that. Wasn't necessary though.
Was your wheel bearing causing the advance track light to come on?
It was not, but I could see if it was gone so badly, it could cause it to come on.
Great video! 3 - 4 hr job if you do yourself?
If nothing goes wrong probably an hour per side max. If you have to replace parts it could be longer.
Great job man made it look easy
Thanks! It wasn't too bad.
Did you go with an OEM replacement?
If one was available I would have gone with it. Unfortunately no matter where I went I couldn’t find one. Ended up with one from Rock Auto.
What kind of warranty that come with?
12 Months.
The Motorcraft ones are back in stock at RockAuto now and have a 24 month warranty.
Thanks for the video. I may try to do my own on my 2018 f150 now.
You are welcome!
@@SmackeysGarage I did it today. The only real catch was that the rotor was rusted to the hub. It took some persuading with a wood block and hammer, but I got it done.🤣
Nice! Yea sometimes you need that big hammer to get those rotors off!!
Is this a 4wd truck?
Yes
Good explanation, I couldn't of said it better myself! 😀
Thanks Bo!
Thanks a lot!
You're welcome!
Grat video buddy!!! I jush someone would be straight up and say how much it was cost either parts and labor or just labor. Thank again for that video.
You can look up the cost for the parts on tasca ford online.
I can’t find the 4wd hub retail price but the 2wd hub is $503 alone from Ford
Nice job Sir!
Thank you!
Great video - I'll be doing mine today, this helped out.
Well done!! Thank you!
Thank you great job
You are welcome!
I only hear the noise when 2H is active. Not sure if that narrows it down to the hub/bearing. When I engage 4h it goes away.
Also how do the aftermarket fair compared to OEM? Seems like they are either backordered or way overpriced
That’s interesting when you engage 4h is goes away. Do you notice it only when driving straight?
For the aftermarket vs OEM… you’re kind of stuck running the aftermarket right now (like me). I would have bout OEM or Moog if they were in stock. Instead I bought the highest end rock auto one that was available. 10k miles and still going strong.
That sounds exactly like actuator issue for the 4x4 system.
Most likely part of your 4WD vacuum system is starting to fail. When the system doesn't hold vacuum the IWE actuators in the front hubs start to partially engage and make a chattering or grinding sound. You can borrow a vacuum tester from an auto parts store and test each side to see if it's a bad IWE or bad lines/check valve. There are some good videos on YT that will walk you through the process.
There’s a slot in the frame that the caliper can be held in without bungee. Engineers did something good. Lol
I’ll have to check that next time I do brakes. That’s cool to know!
Thanks man, worked great
Your truck is not four-wheel-drive, is it
It is four wheel drive.
Is this 4x4?
Yes
@@SmackeysGarage
Thank you 🙏 will try to knock out this weekend.
@SmackeysGarage Follow up question, is there a left and right ? Rockauto does not specify.
I don’t believe so.
Thank you for your videos
You are welcome!
Good job!
Hey Sir! We sincerely look for a video collaboration with you! Are you interested in trying our F-150 custom seat covers?
Hi! We DM your IG.
Just FYI, your bearing will never come out this easy 😂
Good explainer though
I've never seen one just fall out like that! I do agree.Thanks!
Great video
Thanks!
Follow up question, are left and right side both the same ? I’m about to order it but it doesn’t specify on rockauto if left or right.
Sad sad video. testament to the crap quality of modern cars. 2018 truck. ALREADY needing a bearing. i have a 1990 1500 with original bearings in it. Still solid. 180K miles. Nothing but chinese junk these days.
To be fair. Our roads where are drive it are filled with deep potholes and the suspension takes a beating.
That's a good point I didn't consider.@@SmackeysGarage
My 2020 F-150 already has 163,000 miles, and front passenger wheel bearing is going
That's crazy. I hope it's under warranty bud.@@holdonsnow1028
@@holdonsnow1028my 2017 drivers side went out at exactly 163 too. Lol but it did take a massive hit from a big ass deer that busted the Iwe and let some trash get in there.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS!!!!! DO BOTH WHEEL BEARINGS!!! I do like the diagnostic reasoning behind the first part but if one goes out the next ones bouned by fire to go next. Especially with hub assemblies since there's no grease zurk. Good video though😊
Yes I agree with you completely. Best practice is to do both. The other side is probably about to fail as well
@@SmackeysGarage just did my parents f150, was having issues with the spindle nut cap on the driver side, which is how I ended up here, started with the driver side.. turned out the seal was shot causing heat, which resulted in a very rusty and crusty assembly haha. I was really appreciative to have such a descriptive video for it. Thank you much
Don’t you need a vaccum for this?
I did not.
@@SmackeysGarage does this vehicle have 4 wheel drive
@@StevennH1 yes it does. When I did my truck, I did not need to disengage anything related to the iwe when replacing the wheel bearing.
👍
Thank you ! Make it look very simple.
You are welcome!