Thanks for making this video, but besides removing the airbox filter, everything else can stay. I did it today on a 2017 IS200T, I unplugged the battery before starting, since you have to unplug the alternator as well. Removed the airbox filter section (tubing stays). Everything else stays, you'll have enough room to fit a small 10mm socket there to remove the 2 bolts. (no need for an angle socket) Note: I wear XXL gloves and I managed to work in that space. I also relocated the vacuum regulator towards the front, since its known to go bad. Therefore, I can change it within 2 minutes if ever it goes bad again. Also, I installed the revised hose. No CEL and the boost is steady now!
@@MB-lc4ef no CEL, but here's how my boost gauge was prior to the fix: th-cam.com/video/ltyGgLBfXeY/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgzJ305_JQRPHI2ndzJ4AaABAg.A9i8xbVVSK1A9rrl33Ji6u
@@MB-lc4ef I never felt the rocking though haha! nor did I have any weird noise, the only hint that something was wrong was with the boost gauge. My car is a base model, but I did a cluster swap a few months ago and that's when I was able to see if the boost is working like it should (clearly it wasn't!)
@@Giorgio_Rampa if you replace the revised hose, you shouldn't have to remove again. I went to buy hose at autozone and ever since haven't had to replace the regulator.
Today I changed mine with an aftermarket Pierburg unit and I can confirm that it is exactly the same part and that the original is made by Pierburg, part no. 7.00513.19.0. You're welcome, I searched endlessly before to find this information
Link for the part? Amazon has this for $40 bucks: MACHSWON Turbocharger Solenoid Valve Looks like old stock, since the first 2 digits before the T is the year. i.e.: 15T160 is 2015 And you'd want something newer than 16T217
Faced with a P25B3 code (wastegate actuator stuck open) and a looming repair bill, I decided to replace this part before replacing the actuator. Thankfully, it worked! Thanks so much.
Literally just had this code come up on my car today and ordered the part through lexus. I am hoping this resolves the issue. I had just changed this part with a cheap ebay replacement and that didnt work out too well. Literally lasted 5 days.
Just noticed the buzzing on mine at 42k and came across this video after a search. Got the part from Lexus and installed in about an hour after watching this a couple times. Appreciate the video man, thank you!
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction with this! I had the exact same symptoms as you especially with the buzzing noise. Luckily I am still under warranty an Lexus changed it for free but you MUST also change the vacuum hose as well or you will have to keep changing the vacuum valve.Updated Vacumn hose part # is 25760-36051. The faulty one was 25760-36050. If you're no longer under warranty Lexus charges around $350 if you can't do it yourself.
@@erickgonzalez-ur1ky After replacing the vacuum regulator valve, everything performance wise was back to operating normal, so yes the car runs good again after the replacement. Hope this helps and thank you for visiting.
Thank you so much for the video. It was a great help. And pretty much all the parts/components you say we need to remove I did have to remove even though at first I did not think I would need to do that :-). My car is 2016 IS 200T and it had the check engine code of P148D. I was not able to recognize or differentiate the noise you described in the beginning of the video; however for my case, I noticed the symptom is that the economy light stop showing up when I drive efficiently. I did not recognize the power loss as I don't really step on the gas padel much. I drive like an old man most of the time. :-)
I was able to get the inside bolt out and back in fairly easy. Use a 1/4 in 10mm socket and jam some type of little bit in the back of the socket so that it has a 1/4 hex bit sticking out from the socket. Now put this on the bolt and grab a 1/4 in wrench. Put the wrench on the hex sticking down from the socket. Loosen and tighten with the 1/4 in wrench.
Should leave the inside bolt out, this will occur again, already on my 3rd valve. I did an investigation and found a solution without having to keep buying new valve everytime. But i don't think it's worth my time to post a video on this. Good job replacing your valve 👍🙃🍺
@@MrBluefuziionthere's a cap on the housing, if you pop that off you will see a filter, just clean the filter really good with soapy water, dry it and place it back. Hopefully this will fjx the problem. But don't take my word for it. Try it out, you have nothing to lose.
@@MrBluefuziion the cap is right next to the two valve where the two vacuum hose are plugged into, the cap is round. Come back and post of your result.
Hey MB-lc4ef, I don't recommend it, but yes you can, you're going to get very poor gas mileage and performance. there's different symptom for this issue, the rocking back and forth does not necessarily have to be there.
@@DuBNeTiX actually I drove home from a roadtrip right after I noticed it (600km) and had one of the best consumptions ever.. and still no rocking, descent turbo/performance. Only that buzzing is very annoying.. i guess it might be the beginning and most of the people dont notice the buzzing noise immediately
@@MB-lc4ef I probably put 10,000 km on mine if not more before fixing this thing. The difference will be in the boost gauge once you fix it. The needle stays steady when you hammer it.
@@Giorgio_Rampa Apparently, while only driving in the city/traffic lately, the noise disappeared.... the boost gauge was actually always ok.. will take it out for a highway ride and see what happens this weekend.. Thanks for the info!
You're welcome, thank you for viewing and please don't forget to subscribe, like, and click the bell notification for more up coming videos. Thanks again for visiting my channel, I'm glad this tutorial helped you. Cheers
I just bought my is200t today and noticed it doing this boost fluctuation. Also noticed the vehicle is just reeeeallly sluggish. Does the repair make the vehicle run stronger or will the car be any faster at all? Thanks for the video
Hi Randy, one you replace the regulator, your car power and all symptoms will go away, you'll notice a difference, I wouldn't say the car is much faster, everything will be restored back to normal, let's just leave it at that because everyone has their own opinions. Thanks for visiting Randy, stay safe.
Thanks for the vedio My car is200t the boost doesn't go beyond 10psi and the car hesitates and generates less power than before. After checking connections and hoses there doesn't seem to be any leak. I couldn't conclude what's up with the car so I'm thinking it's either one of the actuator wastegate, vaccum regulator valve, o2 sensor. I didn't get any cel anyways. What can I do to fix this from happening and actually now what's causing this issue. Looking for the best feedback please
Hi Rashid, couple questions, does the car have a forward backward sensation when punching on the gas, and when punching on the gas, does your rpm needle reach 5000 rpm? and one last question, does your psi needle fluctuate when applying gas in mid rpm?
I conclude its the same situation here, your vacuum regulator valve, this is common problem for the is200t, you will not get a CEL code. you will need to replace this unit, its farely cheap and if you're mechanically incline, you can do this yourself as I show how in this video. Hope this helps,
@@rashidaldoseri2085, I'm glad my tutorial helped you and fixed your problem, and thank you for following up with your fix. Please support me by subscribing and hit that like button. Thanks again for visiting my channel....cheers. :)
Hi Jerrylomas831, yes they use the same vacuum regulator valve, same part number 25819-0W010, hope this helps. Please consider subscribing and like this video if it helps you. Thanks for watching.
To this day, have you changed to the updated bigger vacuum hose too ?? Seen like others I read from groups, they replaced both Regulator valve and also the hose together. And the problem won’t happen again. Did you do it too ?
Hi Rithy, yes I've changed the hose to a slightly bigger diameter, just the next size up from stock. I did not buy from dealer, IDK what the updated hose comes with from the dealership but all i bought was just the hose next size bigger from stock, it does make a difference.
@@DuBNeTiX so right now you recommend to change and update both Regulator valve and bigger update hose altogether?? Because the old small hose is the culprit to make the regulator go bad. It’s what others people said.
@@DuBNeTiX also Tino sir, will I get check engine light or some error messages that will make my car not the same as before when I change the vacuum regulator and new bigger hose ?? I see some people got their car not running well or even limb mode after they change both of them parts. Or maybe they installed them incorrectly that’s why it’s not working for them ? And your car is running fine with proper installation? Sorry for asking a lot of questions 🙏🏻
@@rithykevin635 there are no message cel light for the regulator or hose, unless you purchased a faulty regulator. Change both the regulator valve and hose should improve the overall performance of your car dramatic but not going to guarantee that the regulator valve will get faulty again in the future.
@@DuBNeTiXThird time! Yikes! There's a revised version (OEM)of this unit that supposed to fix the old issue, along with a replacement hose as well. I don't think aftermarket brands are hip to the new change.
@@strumpeteer No I don't think the revision with the new hose/tube will fix the issue, from what i see, the unit has a filter, which i think overtime will accumulate dirt and oil that will clog up the unit, i'm going to wait for this 3rd unit to fail, and will remove and clean the filter see if that will fix. If it fixes the issue then I will definitely make a video. Thanks again for visiting my channel, really appreciated. Cheers
Hi Vithou Norin, in the long run, yes this will damage your turbo. The solenoid is falty because its clogged up due to dirty filter inside the valve. I went through 3 of these already, and just did an experiment on an old valve. Interesting to see this filter can just be washed, cleaned and reinstall. But i don't think making a video will be worth it to me. But to answer your question, depending how long you're planning on driving your lexus with faulty valve, a month or two will not harm anything, but please decide at your own risk. I will not be responsible for your decision making. You're just going to feel a poor performance. Hope this helps. If anyone like me to do a video on how to clean this valve, leave a comment and please subscribe to support my channel as I'm doing this to help fellow Lexus is200t owner. I've not been making video because my work is very busy and this pandemic is not helping either. Sorry everyone, please bare with me. I promise i will post more once i find time.
@@DuBNeTiX thank you for your very good answer. I’ve encountered the same humming noise on my nx200t just like on your is200t but when I test drove my car the boost gauge wasn’t fluctuated and the car is running fine.
@@norin3544 Some people will experience all three symptoms from boost gauge fluctuation, forward backward sensation, and humming noise, also lack of power, and more fuel consumption. Some will only hear the humming noise, as for me i had all three the first valve, second valve was only the noise.
@@norin3544 yes, i kinda hear it and i left a comment on your video. I'm not sure where the valve is actually located, but sounds like it might be under the piping/hose around the passenger side. Might be between the coolant reservoir and radiator. The valve should look exactly the same as the is200t.
hello i notice the car engine noise i always thought it was normal ever sense i got the car! but what i did notice every time i launch it im only getting about 7 psi and it keeps going down the boost gages. if i changed the part you did my boost will go back to normal? i also bought a aftermarket turbo from gottunned 380 to the crank. i feel a big difference then before but still have the same problem im not boosting more then 7psi i was thinking about getting a turbo boost controller what do you think about that? how do i ever fix my boost gages it just go back and forth is their something i’m missing ?
@@DuBNeTiXwell i haven’t just yet still looking for the part i haven’t got any luck of finding the part just yet but before i even put the aftermarket turbo i had the same problem trouble boosting as well, and the engine bay the noise is really loud like it doesn’t sound healthy either
@@brandonvega6882 I'm assuming the noise you are describing is a loud humming noise coming from the passenger side is that correct? Sounds like a generator. No it is not the blow off valve (BOV).
Can you please show us the boost gauge after fixing the problem..... Also you need to change the part number of vacuum hose from 25760-36050 to this 25760-36051 I think that i have the same problem.... I just read the service bulletin of this issue.... This is the number of the service bulletin L-SB-0153-17 Just I need to be sure what happened to your boost gauge after fixing the problem... Thank you
Hi Suhaib Ali, If you're experiencing back and forth motion while accelerating and your boost gauge fluctuate, I'm pretty sure this is what you will need to replace, as for me after the install, my boost gauge went back to normal.
My boost gauge fluctuate.... But I am not sure if it normal or not...... That why I am asking you if you can show us the normal boost gauge... After fixing the problem
@@DuBNeTiX i replaced mine on my is200t and now when i go to give it gas it’s cuts the boost and only revs the rpm up to speed up. everything was fixed though the turbo lag and response is much better when u replaces the regulator but it’s doesn’t want to build full boost.
@@hudsoncalixto3645 Sorry to hear that, but sounds to me like you prob connect the hose on the regulator reversed or you have a vacuum leak, seems your waste gate is not opening and you're getting low boost. check the hose connection on your regulator valve. Vacuum hose from your wastegate should connect to the inner side valve on your regulator, the one with the black protective sleeves should connect to the outside valve, make sure the hose is pushed and seated tightly on the valve. make sure the connector harness is plugged back.
Hello I have the same problem with my 200t. The turbo gauge with mine fluctuate while on heavy boost. Feels like the cars jerking like ur letting off the throttle and applying it again. Did you get the part straight from the dealer or online.
Hello smilinjoe, no it will not throw cel code or stall the vehicle. The car will not perform the way it should, you'll just have the back and forth motion at throttle.
@@DuBNeTiX my car stalled after making that noise and it eventually stalled. i wasn't able to start the vehicle. it will crank but no start. it threw cel turbo sensor low voltage on the scanner. i check the voltage on the harness connector and its showing 5 volts. i also replaced the regulator. cleaer the codes and the codes are no longer there but still wont start. when I turn into ignition, I can hear the fuel pump humming. Im gonna check by spraying with starter fluid tomorrow and see whether it helps. i did not feel any misfire prior to the vehicle stalling any idea?
Thanks brother. I check the battery. It's good. Gonna check for spark next . Do you know whether there's a shreder valve in the fuel regulator to place the gauge? I know the fuel system is high pressure since it's direct injected. I tried the spray can method but didn't crank 😞. Literally just paid this car off.
Hey man I have a 16 200t and it has intake and chargepipe, recently I started having isssues like if I press on throttle all the way the car acts funny and won’t go it send the rpms back and forth and then check engine comes on and have to turn if the car then turn it back on, do u know what the issue might be , is it possible that it’s the vacuum regulator?
@@johnnyshabanov5238 you mentioned the check engine light comes on when you pressed on the throttle all the way, what about your boost gauge, does it fluctuate and when stepping on the gas does your car have a forward backward motion?
@@DuBNeTiX boost sometimes isn't there like 2 or 3rd gear also when im going up a hill and boost is building it hesitates like it wants to build the boost but struggles too, this morning I was going up a hill and bov went off while foot was on gas. I have a base model no gauges. I was really dissapointed I took it to the dealer for this issue and they said the car was fine bc they test drove it and no cel was on
The car runs good just cruising to my work and stuff but when I try to go into sport more or normal and have some fun w the car I can tell it's not 100% okay
@@pintobeangaming1620 This will not cause the CEL to come on, its performance issue. Yes you will need to replace your vacuum regulator valve, I provide part number and like i mentioned, i ordered from ebay. It's fairly easy, just take your time, You can do this just have confidence.
@@DuBNeTiX okay thank you! I'm gonna try this I'm at 70k miles my car also shifts quicker than it should I feel like the range is close from gear to gear
Hi Angel bluerider, people have different comments, opinions, and styles when it comes to cars and suvs. When car makers design their lines of cars and suvs, they put certain thoughts into it, like for example the Rx vs. Nx. Rx is a 3.5 liter v6 295 horse engine 268 lb-ft @ 4,700 and is a much larger SUV vs. NX the 2.0 liter turbo inline 4 2.0L 235 horse with 258 lb-ft @ 1,650-4,000 engine. Now RX is more of a larger family luxury suv and is design to ride much smoother and NX is more of a smaller family suv which more towards the sportier side, that's why is not going to be as smooth on the suspension. People have different preference on size, styles, weight and more on the price. You can already see the power difference between the 2. When you talk about turbo's, yes all turbo's tend to have turbo lag at the beginning of acceleration, but once your RPM hits a certain point usually around 4000-4500 RPM the turbo will boost to its potential power. I don't want to write too much, but if you want more information please do your research on the internet. I don't like to tell people what car or suv is best for them, its a matter of preference and what you can afford, But in my opinion, all lexus are great lines of vehicles. Thanks for visiting and be safe. Cheers.
Hi blazingox88, either dealer or aftermarket part for this valve will not make a difference, these valve get faulty due to the filter inside the unit being clogged up therefore causing your turbo waste gate to be stuck open.
Hi Emily, this might be same procedure as the is200t, but double check the location, I'm just guessing so don't take me word for it as I don't know the layout for the NX200T.
Been looking for an existing walkthrough myself. No luck :/ trying to see if someone has Toyota’s TiS access but no luck there either. Emily, you ever get yours done?
@@19Stifler91 I have no luck, but my best suggestion is, if you know where your turbo is. There should be a vaccum line running from your turbo to the regulator valve. All you do is follow that vacuum tube from your turbo and you should see the other end of the vacuum tube connected to the regulator valve.
I have a 17 is200t f-sport, has anyone else experienced the random high coolant temp issue? Absolutely no other issues with the car, it's been great. I saw some Lexus forum stuff about it but not much.
Thanks for making this video, but besides removing the airbox filter, everything else can stay.
I did it today on a 2017 IS200T, I unplugged the battery before starting, since you have to unplug the alternator as well.
Removed the airbox filter section (tubing stays).
Everything else stays, you'll have enough room to fit a small 10mm socket there to remove the 2 bolts. (no need for an angle socket)
Note: I wear XXL gloves and I managed to work in that space.
I also relocated the vacuum regulator towards the front, since its known to go bad. Therefore, I can change it within 2 minutes if ever it goes bad again.
Also, I installed the revised hose.
No CEL and the boost is steady now!
did you have cel before?
@@MB-lc4ef no CEL, but here's how my boost gauge was prior to the fix:
th-cam.com/video/ltyGgLBfXeY/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgzJ305_JQRPHI2ndzJ4AaABAg.A9i8xbVVSK1A9rrl33Ji6u
@@Giorgio_Rampa yes, thats the typical rocking issue.. don't have that, mine's ok so far
@@MB-lc4ef I never felt the rocking though haha! nor did I have any weird noise, the only hint that something was wrong was with the boost gauge. My car is a base model, but I did a cluster swap a few months ago and that's when I was able to see if the boost is working like it should (clearly it wasn't!)
@@Giorgio_Rampa if you replace the revised hose, you shouldn't have to remove again. I went to buy hose at autozone and ever since haven't had to replace the regulator.
Today I changed mine with an aftermarket Pierburg unit and I can confirm that it is exactly the same part and that the original is made by Pierburg, part no. 7.00513.19.0. You're welcome, I searched endlessly before to find this information
Link for the part?
Amazon has this for $40 bucks:
MACHSWON Turbocharger Solenoid Valve
Looks like old stock, since the first 2 digits before the T is the year.
i.e.: 15T160 is 2015
And you'd want something newer than 16T217
Faced with a P25B3 code (wastegate actuator stuck open) and a looming repair bill, I decided to replace this part before replacing the actuator. Thankfully, it worked!
Thanks so much.
I'm glad you did your research before spending money on possible un-necessary parts you don't need, they might charge for something you don't need. 🍻
Literally just had this code come up on my car today and ordered the part through lexus. I am hoping this resolves the issue. I had just changed this part with a cheap ebay replacement and that didnt work out too well. Literally lasted 5 days.
Just noticed the buzzing on mine at 42k and came across this video after a search. Got the part from Lexus and installed in about an hour after watching this a couple times. Appreciate the video man, thank you!
Thanks for visiting my channel, I'm really glad this video helped.
Thank you for pointing me in the right direction with this! I had the exact same symptoms as you especially with the buzzing noise. Luckily I am still under warranty an Lexus changed it for free but you MUST also change the vacuum hose as well or you will have to keep changing the vacuum valve.Updated Vacumn hose part # is 25760-36051. The faulty one was 25760-36050. If you're no longer under warranty Lexus charges around $350 if you can't do it yourself.
Hello I300s, I'm glad my video helped you out, I'm not sure if they found a fix for this issue. This will occur again so just keep that in mind.
Thanks for the part info, the hose is very easy replacement. 👍😊🍺
@@DuBNeTiX question is your car good after above replacements ??? Thinking of doing that to my car as I’m having boost issues thx
@@erickgonzalez-ur1ky After replacing the vacuum regulator valve, everything performance wise was back to operating normal, so yes the car runs good again after the replacement. Hope this helps and thank you for visiting.
@l300is which hose is 25760-36051 on the vacuum regulator?
Thank you so much for the video. It was a great help. And pretty much all the parts/components you say we need to remove I did have to remove even though at first I did not think I would need to do that :-). My car is 2016 IS 200T and it had the check engine code of P148D. I was not able to recognize or differentiate the noise you described in the beginning of the video; however for my case, I noticed the symptom is that the economy light stop showing up when I drive efficiently. I did not recognize the power loss as I don't really step on the gas padel much. I drive like an old man most of the time. :-)
I was able to get the inside bolt out and back in fairly easy. Use a 1/4 in 10mm socket and jam some type of little bit in the back of the socket so that it has a 1/4 hex bit sticking out from the socket. Now put this on the bolt and grab a 1/4 in wrench. Put the wrench on the hex sticking down from the socket. Loosen and tighten with the 1/4 in wrench.
Should leave the inside bolt out, this will occur again, already on my 3rd valve. I did an investigation and found a solution without having to keep buying new valve everytime. But i don't think it's worth my time to post a video on this. Good job replacing your valve 👍🙃🍺
@@DuBNeTiX what way is this? I’m experiencing this issue and don’t want to have to buy another one of these. Thanks so much for the help!
@@MrBluefuziionthere's a cap on the housing, if you pop that off you will see a filter, just clean the filter really good with soapy water, dry it and place it back. Hopefully this will fjx the problem. But don't take my word for it. Try it out, you have nothing to lose.
@@MrBluefuziion the cap is right next to the two valve where the two vacuum hose are plugged into, the cap is round. Come back and post of your result.
@@DuBNeTiX Awesome! I'll give it a go thanks so much for the quick response. I'll report back here once I try it (:
Excellent video thank you so much 👍
Thanks for this i have the same problem with mine this helps alot !!! Thank you !!!
I'm glad this helped you, please share, like and subscribe for future videos. 😊👍
I have a 2016 lexus is200t and i have a P25B3 code wastegate A stuck open , is this the part i need to fix the problem, i have a loss of power
Thx for the vid! I have the buzzing noise but no rocking (yet).. is it ok to drive the car for a couple of months like this (approx 2-300 miles)?
Hey MB-lc4ef, I don't recommend it, but yes you can, you're going to get very poor gas mileage and performance. there's different symptom for this issue, the rocking back and forth does not necessarily have to be there.
@@DuBNeTiX actually I drove home from a roadtrip right after I noticed it (600km) and had one of the best consumptions ever.. and still no rocking, descent turbo/performance. Only that buzzing is very annoying.. i guess it might be the beginning and most of the people dont notice the buzzing noise immediately
@@MB-lc4ef I probably put 10,000 km on mine if not more before fixing this thing.
The difference will be in the boost gauge once you fix it. The needle stays steady when you hammer it.
@@Giorgio_Rampa Apparently, while only driving in the city/traffic lately, the noise disappeared.... the boost gauge was actually always ok..
will take it out for a highway ride and see what happens this weekend..
Thanks for the info!
Awesome job and thanks for install how to and part number
You're welcome, thank you for viewing and please don't forget to subscribe, like, and click the bell notification for more up coming videos. Thanks again for visiting my channel, I'm glad this tutorial helped you. Cheers
Hi, did you order bigger hose from the lexus/toyota or you just put bigger aftermarket hose there?
I just bought my is200t today and noticed it doing this boost fluctuation. Also noticed the vehicle is just reeeeallly sluggish. Does the repair make the vehicle run stronger or will the car be any faster at all? Thanks for the video
Hi Randy, one you replace the regulator, your car power and all symptoms will go away, you'll notice a difference, I wouldn't say the car is much faster, everything will be restored back to normal, let's just leave it at that because everyone has their own opinions. Thanks for visiting Randy, stay safe.
Did you fix it with that problem ?
Thanks for the vedio
My car is200t the boost doesn't go beyond 10psi and the car hesitates and generates less power than before. After checking connections and hoses there doesn't seem to be any leak. I couldn't conclude what's up with the car so I'm thinking it's either one of the actuator wastegate, vaccum regulator valve, o2 sensor. I didn't get any cel anyways. What can I do to fix this from happening and actually now what's causing this issue. Looking for the best feedback please
Hi Rashid, couple questions, does the car have a forward backward sensation when punching on the gas, and when punching on the gas, does your rpm needle reach 5000 rpm? and one last question, does your psi needle fluctuate when applying gas in mid rpm?
I conclude its the same situation here, your vacuum regulator valve, this is common problem for the is200t, you will not get a CEL code. you will need to replace this unit, its farely cheap and if you're mechanically incline, you can do this yourself as I show how in this video. Hope this helps,
Not even a flick of fluctuation..seems steady but stuck low at a certain point where it doesn't move above that range. My rpm revs go beyond 5k.
Thank you my bro, I replaced this piece and the car is good
@@rashidaldoseri2085, I'm glad my tutorial helped you and fixed your problem, and thank you for following up with your fix. Please support me by subscribing and hit that like button. Thanks again for visiting my channel....cheers. :)
Hey brother quick question, I hear this slightly but on the opposite side of the engine, near the turbo and relay box.. it’s not this issue right?
Does the non F sport have the ground wire under the airbox? I don’t see it
Lexus has superseded the part, id avoid the piersburg and go with the fix Lexus provided. New hose part number as well.
Thanks for sharing this is exactly what I was looking for. Would this same part work for the 2018 is300?
Hi Jerrylomas831, yes they use the same vacuum regulator valve, same part number 25819-0W010, hope this helps. Please consider subscribing and like this video if it helps you. Thanks for watching.
To this day, have you changed to the updated bigger vacuum hose too ??
Seen like others I read from groups, they replaced both Regulator valve and also the hose together. And the problem won’t happen again.
Did you do it too ?
Hi Rithy, yes I've changed the hose to a slightly bigger diameter, just the next size up from stock. I did not buy from dealer, IDK what the updated hose comes with from the dealership but all i bought was just the hose next size bigger from stock, it does make a difference.
@@DuBNeTiX so right now you recommend to change and update both Regulator valve and bigger update hose altogether?? Because the old small hose is the culprit to make the regulator go bad. It’s what others people said.
@@DuBNeTiX also Tino sir, will I get check engine light or some error messages that will make my car not the same as before when I change the vacuum regulator and new bigger hose ??
I see some people got their car not running well or even limb mode after they change both of them parts. Or maybe they installed them incorrectly that’s why it’s not working for them ?
And your car is running fine with proper installation?
Sorry for asking a lot of questions 🙏🏻
@@rithykevin635 there are no message cel light for the regulator or hose, unless you purchased a faulty regulator. Change both the regulator valve and hose should improve the overall performance of your car dramatic but not going to guarantee that the regulator valve will get faulty again in the future.
@@rithykevin635 yes change out both
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Just noticed but is this the second time you replaced this unit after only a few months?
@@strumpeteer hi strumpeteer, yes this was my second, but i already replaced it the third time.
@@DuBNeTiXThird time! Yikes! There's a revised version (OEM)of this unit that supposed to fix the old issue, along with a replacement hose as well. I don't think aftermarket brands are hip to the new change.
@@strumpeteer No I don't think the revision with the new hose/tube will fix the issue, from what i see, the unit has a filter, which i think overtime will accumulate dirt and oil that will clog up the unit, i'm going to wait for this 3rd unit to fail, and will remove and clean the filter see if that will fix. If it fixes the issue then I will definitely make a video.
Thanks again for visiting my channel, really appreciated. Cheers
If we don’t replace it, is it gonna cause any trouble to engine in the future ?
Hi Vithou Norin, in the long run, yes this will damage your turbo. The solenoid is falty because its clogged up due to dirty filter inside the valve. I went through 3 of these already, and just did an experiment on an old valve. Interesting to see this filter can just be washed, cleaned and reinstall. But i don't think making a video will be worth it to me. But to answer your question, depending how long you're planning on driving your lexus with faulty valve, a month or two will not harm anything, but please decide at your own risk. I will not be responsible for your decision making. You're just going to feel a poor performance. Hope this helps. If anyone like me to do a video on how to clean this valve, leave a comment and please subscribe to support my channel as I'm doing this to help fellow Lexus is200t owner. I've not been making video because my work is very busy and this pandemic is not helping either. Sorry everyone, please bare with me. I promise i will post more once i find time.
@@DuBNeTiX thank you for your very good answer. I’ve encountered the same humming noise on my nx200t just like on your is200t but when I test drove my car the boost gauge wasn’t fluctuated and the car is running fine.
It’s sound like this
th-cam.com/video/ZBtS0jy2qdI/w-d-xo.html
@@norin3544 Some people will experience all three symptoms from boost gauge fluctuation, forward backward sensation, and humming noise, also lack of power, and more fuel consumption. Some will only hear the humming noise, as for me i had all three the first valve, second valve was only the noise.
@@norin3544 yes, i kinda hear it and i left a comment on your video. I'm not sure where the valve is actually located, but sounds like it might be under the piping/hose around the passenger side. Might be between the coolant reservoir and radiator. The valve should look exactly the same as the is200t.
hello i notice the car engine noise i always thought it was normal ever sense i got the car! but what i did notice every time i launch it im only getting about 7 psi and it keeps going down the boost gages. if i changed the part you did my boost will go back to normal? i also bought a aftermarket turbo from gottunned 380 to the crank. i feel a big difference then before but still have the same problem im not boosting more then 7psi i was thinking about getting a turbo boost controller what do you think about that? how do i ever fix my boost gages it just go back and forth is their something i’m missing ?
Have you changed out your boost regulator valve?
@@DuBNeTiXwell i haven’t just yet still looking for the part i haven’t got any luck of finding the part just yet but before i even put the aftermarket turbo i had the same problem trouble boosting as well, and the engine bay the noise is really loud like it doesn’t sound healthy either
@@DuBNeTiXand is it a other name called the blow out valve or something?
@@brandonvega6882 I'm assuming the noise you are describing is a loud humming noise coming from the passenger side is that correct? Sounds like a generator. No it is not the blow off valve (BOV).
This is what you need, go buy from ebay Turbo Boost Pressure Valve Solenoid Fits for Lexus 2.0 L 25819-0W010 25819-0R010
Does your boost guage ever reach 12 psi ?
Can you please show us the boost gauge after fixing the problem.....
Also
you need to change the part number of vacuum hose from 25760-36050 to this
25760-36051
I think that i have the same problem....
I just read the service bulletin of this issue....
This is the number of the service bulletin
L-SB-0153-17
Just I need to be sure what happened to your boost gauge after fixing the problem...
Thank you
Hi Suhaib Ali, If you're experiencing back and forth motion while accelerating and your boost gauge fluctuate, I'm pretty sure this is what you will need to replace, as for me after the install, my boost gauge went back to normal.
My boost gauge fluctuate....
But I am not sure if it normal or not......
That why I am asking you if you can show us the normal boost gauge... After fixing the problem
@@suhaibali2716 did you end up fixing the fluctuation in your boost gauge? If so, what was the issue?
Was their any difference with the gauges an rpm after you changed it? Was it the same as when you were driving in the video?
Hi 1300s Everything was normal after the vacuum regulator change, rpm, boost gauge was normal.
@@DuBNeTiX i replaced mine on my is200t and now when i go to give it gas it’s cuts the boost and only revs the rpm up to speed up. everything was fixed though the turbo lag and response is much better when u replaces the regulator but it’s doesn’t want to build full boost.
@@hudsoncalixto3645 Sorry to hear that, but sounds to me like you prob connect the hose on the regulator reversed or you have a vacuum leak, seems your waste gate is not opening and you're getting low boost. check the hose connection on your regulator valve. Vacuum hose from your wastegate should connect to the inner side valve on your regulator, the one with the black protective sleeves should connect to the outside valve, make sure the hose is pushed and seated tightly on the valve.
make sure the connector harness is plugged back.
Hello I have the same problem with my 200t. The turbo gauge with mine fluctuate while on heavy boost. Feels like the cars jerking like ur letting off the throttle and applying it again. Did you get the part straight from the dealer or online.
Hi Deserteagl44, I bought mine from Ebay.com as mentioned in the video, I think they have a tsb on this issue. I just decide to replace it myself.
will it throw a cel of turbo boost sensor and cause the vehicle to stall if you dont replaced it?
Hello smilinjoe, no it will not throw cel code or stall the vehicle. The car will not perform the way it should, you'll just have the back and forth motion at throttle.
@@DuBNeTiX my car stalled after making that noise and it eventually stalled. i wasn't able to start the vehicle. it will crank but no start. it threw cel turbo sensor low voltage on the scanner. i check the voltage on the harness connector and its showing 5 volts. i also replaced the regulator. cleaer the codes and the codes are no longer there but still wont start. when I turn into ignition, I can hear the fuel pump humming. Im gonna check by spraying with starter fluid tomorrow and see whether it helps. i did not feel any misfire prior to the vehicle stalling
any idea?
@@smilinjoe23 have you replaced the sparkplugs?
@@smilinjoe23 there are only 3 things all vehicles need and thats sharks, air, and fuel. Could be one of the three, check battery voltage as well.
Thanks brother. I check the battery. It's good. Gonna check for spark next . Do you know whether there's a shreder valve in the fuel regulator to place the gauge? I know the fuel system is high pressure since it's direct injected. I tried the spray can method but didn't crank 😞. Literally just paid this car off.
Did any of you guys get error codes? Check engine codes before the installation?
There's no CEL codes just the symptoms
@@DuBNeTiX oh sweet thanks. No symptoms on mine except for a screech noice like a belt is slapping somewhere
Hey man I have a 16 200t and it has intake and chargepipe, recently I started having isssues like if I press on throttle all the way the car acts funny and won’t go it send the rpms back and forth and then check engine comes on and have to turn if the car then turn it back on, do u know what the issue might be , is it possible that it’s the vacuum regulator?
Hi Johnny, what is the code is giving you?
there is no check engine light on
@@johnnyshabanov5238 you mentioned the check engine light comes on when you pressed on the throttle all the way, what about your boost gauge, does it fluctuate and when stepping on the gas does your car have a forward backward motion?
@@DuBNeTiX yes it only come on when i hit the throttle all the way and force it to pull, boost gauge does go back and forth as well as the car
@@DuBNeTiX and also the cel flashes
I'm at 70k miles and am now experiencing weird problems such as this am wondering what I should do
JohnyAragon710, what problems are you experiencing? Can you be more detailed.
@@DuBNeTiX boost sometimes isn't there like 2 or 3rd gear also when im going up a hill and boost is building it hesitates like it wants to build the boost but struggles too, this morning I was going up a hill and bov went off while foot was on gas. I have a base model no gauges. I was really dissapointed I took it to the dealer for this issue and they said the car was fine bc they test drove it and no cel was on
The car runs good just cruising to my work and stuff but when I try to go into sport more or normal and have some fun w the car I can tell it's not 100% okay
@@pintobeangaming1620 This will not cause the CEL to come on, its performance issue. Yes you will need to replace your vacuum regulator valve, I provide part number and like i mentioned, i ordered from ebay. It's fairly easy, just take your time, You can do this just have confidence.
@@DuBNeTiX okay thank you! I'm gonna try this I'm at 70k miles my car also shifts quicker than it should I feel like the range is close from gear to gear
im on my 3rd one from the dealership...
How??
Someone says rx350 better then this becuase nx200t has turbo lag and small 4cyl. And feel rough bumps.
Hi Angel bluerider, people have different comments, opinions, and styles when it comes to cars and suvs. When car makers design their lines of cars and suvs, they put certain thoughts into it, like for example the Rx vs. Nx. Rx is a 3.5 liter v6 295 horse engine 268 lb-ft @ 4,700 and is a much larger SUV vs. NX the 2.0 liter turbo inline 4 2.0L 235 horse with 258 lb-ft @ 1,650-4,000 engine. Now RX is more of a larger family luxury suv and is design to ride much smoother and NX is more of a smaller family suv which more towards the sportier side, that's why is not going to be as smooth on the suspension. People have different preference on size, styles, weight and more on the price. You can already see the power difference between the 2. When you talk about turbo's, yes all turbo's tend to have turbo lag at the beginning of acceleration, but once your RPM hits a certain point usually around 4000-4500 RPM the turbo will boost to its potential power. I don't want to write too much, but if you want more information please do your research on the internet. I don't like to tell people what car or suv is best for them, its a matter of preference and what you can afford, But in my opinion, all lexus are great lines of vehicles. Thanks for visiting and be safe. Cheers.
Any lexus 350 I buy it without even thinking.... I buy it blind
Get the oem parts better safe than sorry
Hi blazingox88, either dealer or aftermarket part for this valve will not make a difference, these valve get faulty due to the filter inside the unit being clogged up therefore causing your turbo waste gate to be stuck open.
Does someone have clip change vacuum regulator for nx200t
Hi Emily, this might be same procedure as the is200t, but double check the location, I'm just guessing so don't take me word for it as I don't know the layout for the NX200T.
Been looking for an existing walkthrough myself. No luck :/ trying to see if someone has Toyota’s TiS access but no luck there either. Emily, you ever get yours done?
@@DuBNeTiX not yet 😁
@@19Stifler91 I'll see if i can use my TIS Techstream to access the NX200T, hope it'll let me, I'll give you an update soon
@@19Stifler91 I have no luck, but my best suggestion is, if you know where your turbo is. There should be a vaccum line running from your turbo to the regulator valve. All you do is follow that vacuum tube from your turbo and you should see the other end of the vacuum tube connected to the regulator valve.
I have a 17 is200t f-sport, has anyone else experienced the random high coolant temp issue? Absolutely no other issues with the car, it's been great. I saw some Lexus forum stuff about it but not much.
I have not had anything of that nature happened yet, but sounds like a thermostat issue, but don't take my word for it. just a thought.
Water pump bad mine happened around 40k